Lot of you guys asked about the markers I used in the video for marking pistons. I use these markers for just about everything when I mark the cars. amzn.to/3ib375v
HumbleMechanic nice, fine point. Question for you. Do the thrust washers wear out on the 1.8L version of this engine with a manual trans? Thanks for all the great videos
Mechanics like you humble make me happy. A shop did what you did over labeling on a motor I took to machine shop to look over and it made my rebuild stupid easy at home.
Fantastically sharp video quality. It's always a treat when THM releases a new workshop tutorial; he has that special quality of holding everyone's attention. Gotta love the videos... gotta love the knowledge... gotta love The Humble Mechanic.
Man I dodged a bullet today in my Miata. Accidentally made the same 3-2 shift up near redline but thankfully I think I got the clutch disengaged before the RPM went too high. Engine still seems to run fine, no CEL, no weird noises, coolant temp and oil pressure seem normal. PHEW!!
I bet you ain’t one of those guys who likes to dump the clutch but rather drive it smooth on every gear change, I find it soothing when I shift as smooth as an automatic, some people just can’t drive it smooth regardless of the rpm, they gave harsher ride than a roller coaster, that’s why they screw up their things.
Hey Charles, I don’t know if this was mentioned yet, but another way to measure piston height is to zero the dial indicator on the deck, then release and reposition the magnetic base on the deck so that the indicator foot is on the piston in the spot you want to measure. That way you can check true TDC, as well as depth or protrusion all in one step. The deck is assumed to be flat for that type of measurement, but I’ve never had a problem doing it that way.
Interesting in the thrust washer. . . I noticed the end play on my Cessna 172 O300 engine when I would grab it by the prop to pull it into position. It worried me, but then realized all of this flat engines had that end play.
There's an SB on radial crank measurement at the prop hub you can have your A&P do if you're afraid it had a prop strike earlier in its life. But they do in general have a fair bit of play, the thrust bearings are literally under the load of thrust constantly. That's why keeping up with your overhauls is important.
It seems the owner over reacted by getting a new engine. This one seem to have sustained a lot less damage on the bottom end then the top end. Just needs a new cylinder head and it would have worked just fine. Maybe replace some of the things you mentioned. Overall very cool video.
@@HumbleMechanic yeah that was my immediate thought, having the car out of comission, and paying for the labor for a rebuild probably would have cost just as much. Plus he might be able to resell the used engine when this one is finished to recover some of the funds.
Often times it's more expensive to rebuild than to replace with a good motor. Rebuilding is expensive even for simple stuff, because it's a very specialized field. As someone who rebuilds very simple old motors i can understand why someone would want a fair bit of money to rebuild a complex modern one.
If the car has been used in town traffic, with the driver sat on and riding the clutch at every set of lights, or doing a lot of stop/start driving in rush hour, the thrust washer will show increased wear, and all the more reason why people buy an auto/DSG if it's their daily commute as well. Also, another reason for not always riding the clutch at the lights is that it places a continued strain on the clutch pressure plate, and if the pressure plate fails, you'll be going nowhere fast.
@@AJ-bb6qb That's true, but a thrust washer should be designed to wear at a similar rate as the main bearings - as in easily capable of 200k miles regardless of driving environment. A thrust washer that wears more like a clutch is frightening.
@@acefighterpilot Agreed, and perhaps this is more a problem with recent VW engines, or could just be a bad batch of main bearing/thrust washer sets as even OEM suppliers have quality issues from time to time. I know from my previous strip down of a 200k mile plus petrol motor from an 80's VW Golf, that had an owner who would go through clutches every 50-60k miles due to riding them, that there was only light wear on the thrust washer. I think if it was a common problem, engine designers would have fitted multiple thrust washers across all of the main bearings to spread the lateral load. I probably need to watch some more engine strip down vids to see if this is not an isolated case.
@@AJ-bb6qb Crank walk is proving itself to be an occasional problem on EA888s with heavy aftermarket clutches. Older engines generally have upper and lower thrust washers on either side of the center bearing, the EA888 only has the upper.
That wear on the lower main bearing would be due to increased load from the combustion stroke. Also explains why it wasn’t on the top bearing. I’ve seen it more pronounced in bigger diesel motors to the point where the bearing almost mushrooms a little. Awesome tear down btw. I’ve watched a heap of your videos recently after purchasing a mk7 gti and now downgrading to a Tiguan *cries I’m sad vw noises*
Roman Skarzhinets A modern engine with a rev limiter works by cutting fuel and/or spark when at the rev limit. Unfortunately in a money shift situation like this the engine speed is being governed by the physical link from the wheel speed through the driveline, no ECU managed rev limiter could do anything to prevent it.
Hey what's up Charles been a while since I last watched one of your vids but pleased to see you're still making high quality informative vids. Good stuff 🤙
that bottom looks great.. some natural wear.. the thrust washer has more wear on one side is normal based on how the engine thrust as it takes up the drive..
You probably answered what went bad on my 2006 A3. Engine failed but before it failed clutch would sometimes get stuck. But I did not have modified clutch it was the original. no slippage, so never replaced. Engine did have a rattle noise. Makes sense that the thrust washers went bad. I got rid of car had over 150k.
it also looks like its a new batch of cast metal , you can see the color difference ? im not sure , but just when they had to switch to next batch and continue pouring the mold with the ladle
The other day I accidentally over revved my vq35de(built engine however) to about 8k Rpm. I am really happy I didn't have any issues(that have shown yet) due to it. Entertaining video none the less. I am also a GTi owner and this makes me happy that I own a DSG. No money shifts. 😂
Last time I saw damage like that was a friends '94 SHO with a blower on it, revving like 8 grand it had some kind of major failure in the top end and obliterated itself into another dimension.
Loved this video, I feel like I learned a lot about the engine in my VW just by watching this. Pointing out some of the common issues such as the thrust washers and how to check for abnornal wear was super interesting. I dont know if you take reccomendations for future videos, but I think a comparison of the current gen 1.4t, 1.8t and 2.0t would be really interesting. What parts are interchangable? Do the head designs differ significantly? Etc. Being able to go in depth to the same degree as this video would be incredible, even if you just had a couple parts from each variant to show.
In 2015 I bought a 2010 GTI with a pretty much brand new engine. Paperwork from dealer listed “catastrophic rod failure “ as the cause of old engine dying.
I money shifted my '99 Tercel to at least 9000 RPM once and continued beating the crap out of it for another few months with no apparent damage done. It was a pretty bad oil burner but if I'm ever broke again and need a car I know what I'm getting.
This video was great for figuring out how and where my conrod came out through my cylinder block, ill be checking more of your vids to try get a better sense of the failure until I can go and see in person, failure happened while dealer was returning my car from standard service 2 days ago. Any suggestions on potential checks for dealer fault would be very welcome. 2015 Golf R DSG EA888 CJXC
I definitely had money shifted couple times in my life, Volkswagen shift pattern has 1-2 closer to the centerline than 5-6 is (got to have something to do with the reverse, they need the 1-2 closer so they can Jam R on the left side), and the shifter takes too little effort it doesn’t give a very good feel, that’s why it’s easy to money shift from third to second. However I never drop the clutch, I always ease it out near the “biting point”, I like to shift as smooth as an automatic, and that gave me just enough time to realize my error, and correct it by depressing the clutch (engine almost sounds like vtec kicked in for a sec, and hitting 8000 rpm instead of dropping to about 4500 from 7000), I really wonder how many rpm it takes to cause damage. Who would have thought the timing of the engagement of that flimsy piece of disc (as about the size as a dinner plate) could mean the difference between life and death for the engine?
Charles, I have a 2014 Jetta MK6 1.8L Turbo. It's getting the Oil Light/Chime (Low pressure). It comes on once operating temps are achieved and at idle. When RPMs increase to 2000-2500 RPMs, light goes away. I've dropped the oil pan twice to inspect for sludge and it was pretty clean. Pickup tube was cleaned, oil pump has been replaced (oil pump looked good but bought one at a cheap enough price to try the swap). Oil and oil filter looking good. I've also found a radiator leak and corrected that as well. During the last oil pan drop, I found what appears to be a ball bearing about 1/4" (50mm) in size. I've watched all your engine tear down videos trying to determine where it might have come from. I'm getting ready to throw in the towel and trade this car in, but curious if you have any ideas on where it could have come from. Lastly, is oil pressure is related to bearings, is there any way to confirm that without taking the engine out and doing a full tear down? Thanks in advance! LOVE your channel and all you do here!
Doesn't the trans kinda hold u off from down shifting at higher revs. U either have to mega rev match or u just cant throw it into down-shift at higher speeds.
0:05 but 3rd to 2nd is not that much of a difference ? I would only expect this type of damage from say 4th to 2nd or 5th to 2nd how did this damage result from the difference of only 1 gear ? Could this damage also happen from high rpm 5th gear to 4th gear ?
Don't feel bad about calling it a thrust bearing - it's a perfectly valid term and actually suits its purpose more than "washer" does. I would use the terms interchangeably.
Over-rev any engine and the spinning parts cannot be trusted unless the weak link is known(camshaft for Cummins 5.9) It breaks first and the other parts have no choice but to come to a stop. What breaks first on the TSI?
When I was a teenager my one buddy was loosing his license and wanted to drive a 5 speed one last time before handing in his license. I let him drive my 1992 4cyl mustang winter car. He redlines 2nd gear and goes to 3rd but it went into 1st gear the engine rev’d to the moon, tires screeching but didn’t blow up. Years later I’m a professional auto technician and I was really into racing Fox body mustangs and I use to rebuild/repair all my friends t-5 trannys from these mustangs. Guys like myself that had built motors would keep blowing up these transmissions and until I had the money for a better tranny I ran a bunch of these t-5’s that were from a 4cyl car and first gear was like 4.40:1 so Reving 2nd gear out and shift back to 1st is near impossible because 1st gear and the slider would be spinning at such different speeds so I have absolutely no idea how my buddy was able to slam It in 1st lol. When I was junking the car I tried to get it into 1st it would not go in no matter the speed or what I did, I tried holding the clutch in for a while to slow the input shaft speeds in gear and in neutral, tried holding the engine wide open bouncing off the Rev limiter, slam it in really hard, reving the engine and letting off but I couldn’t get it to go into 1st until the car was almost not moving. However one of my other friends had a 1990’s Chevy s10 4cyl 5speed winter beater and I dared him to shift it into 1st gear when we were going 50mph and he really quickly slammed it into 1st gear it actually went into gear let out the clutch fast and the truck didn’t do anything no noises, no jerking, engine didn’t Rev up but truck wouldn’t move. When he took the transmission out the clutch pretty much disintegrated lol! There was the hub part that was on the input shaft then just a pile of clutch material in the bellhousing lol. I couldn’t believe it didn’t make any noise or anything with how crazy it blew up.
I’m surprised the guy was able to get a new engine put in the car without totaling it. When my 1-year old GTI had the engine replaced under warranty the warranty paperwork said the total costs were near $17K. Did the insurance pay for a used/reconditioned motor or something? How much did it cost this guy?
Polishing out those lines and jagged edges on cast parts not only makes them look good and shinny, but also makes em stronger be evening out the surface tension of the entire cast part. Takes time, but worth it on high power output builds.
Do the GTI and R have that same bottom end or different rods? Either way, nice to see the confirmation of how stout these bottom ends are. The anti-friction coating on the piston skirts is also nice to see.
Hmm I don't quite understand how over revving can cause those scorings in behind the valves on the top end, I thought money shifts almost exclusively result in damage due to valve springs breaking or meeting the piston, it's as if the valves bent out and hit the top end walls.
Those rockers got dislodged at very high engine rpm due to miss shift, so they did rumbled in the top of the engine before they found resting spot. This particular engine could potentially end up with much worse damage.
Is the thrust bearing assembly the same between the GTI and the R? Is my 2019 R just as likely to have crank walk with an updated clutch as a GTI does?
Yes, it's beyond a common problem - if you have an uprated clutch in your R, eventually the thrust bearings will wear and fall out. Most engines, VR6 for instance, have upper and lower thrust washer halves, which makes it impossible for the bearings to fall out. VW sought to minimize internal engine friction to reduce emissions as much as possible with the EA888, and that included smaller main bearings in the 1.8Ls and also only upper thrust washer halves in all engines (VW SSP 606). Some R and GTI owners have posted guides on disabling the clutch interlock so you can start the car without the clutch in, thereby reducing wear on the thrust washers during the most critical time of low oil pressure and temperature. The ultimate solution is to have the lower main bearing caps machined to receive the missing two halves of the thrust washers, which some R owners have done. Then it is no longer possible for the washers to fall out. But bear in mind VW's main goal with the EA888 was reduced emissions, largely achieved by minimizing oil flow whenever possible. They were not thinking about folks in the aftermarket running 400whp.
When I first read SSP 606, with a look of sheer terror, I cancelled my plans to tune my 7R and I plan on offloading it the day the warranty is up. I'm going to be dead within sixty years, I really would much rather have a car that lasts twenty years rather than stave off global warming by five minutes because my car only has half a thrust washer.
acefighterpilot I really don’t think the start up could cause enough wear on the thrust bearing, it is rather those people who sit at a red light for minutes idling their engine and leave their car in first the whole time, and do it for years and years.
acefighterpilot trust me you will get bored driving that car after 20 years, you may keep it but the chance of you driving that thing everyday after twenty years is very slim, I will wait for your reply after twenty years!
@@davidgruen7423 Wear is cumulative. When you operate the clutch, you are wearing the thrust bearings. The car doesn't care why you are operating the clutch. It does however care if you are operating the clutch with no oil pressure and low oil temperature such as at start up. Try rubbing two pieces of metal together with oil and without. You can do it with oil a thousand times and it still won't leave scratches like doing it without. Disabling the interlock certainly won't stop the wear, but it will give you more time. The Cabrio VR6 I built when I was twenty is still just as fun as the day I built it. The basic fact is the 7R is the end of the line for high power manual transmission Volkswagens. Maybe since it's so soul less it won't be as fun in twenty years as it is today, but to me it will certainly be more fun than the electric cars on the market then, for the same reason my Cabrio is more fun than it is - driver engagement.
Is there any aftermarket solution to the thrust washer issue, I have a 2015 GTI. And I wanted to go stage 2 with a stage 2 clutch and this is pretty scary. Another RUclipsr @chicagoautopros had the same issue with his GTI and he was paying upwards of 14K for a rebuild
The valve reliefs cut into the pistons is probably what saved the bottom end and the valves from contacting the pistons when it over revved and the 'floating' occurred. I bet if it was at a higher rpm and the pistons were flat top then you'd be picking pieces of the valve out of the bores. It definitely mashed the top of the valve stems but the bottom end survived probably by its design. Apparently its 'less' of an interference motor due to all the space in between the valve, piston and quench area. Throw some bearings in that short block and it should be good to go. If you are worried about it, you can always use some plastigauge to check the tolerances. The crank material is known to be harder than the bearings, so it isn't common to see the crank wear before the babbit material starts to wear through on the bearings. Still not impressed with the TSI stuff. I'd rather have a built 1.8t (that isnt a sludge motor.) This only really happens to the longitudinal ones and not the transverse mounted.
I was test driving a customer car after a repair and I also accidentally shifted from 3rd to 2nd instead of 3rd to 4th. In a split second all I heard was the engine screaming and the RPMs close to 5500, then immediately put it in neutral and reset. How the engine didn't explode, I will never know, but I'll take it. I'm surprised I didn't die from how fast my heart was racing lol
Hey Charles! What is the blue pen you used to mark the parts with and where can I find one? I have tons and tons of parts that I keep for spares and sometimes sell. I've been making them with a yellow paint pen, but for some things, that's probably not the best thing to use, especially for engine internals.
I recently did some chains on this engine to to chain stretch and I know you did a vid on the chains but I took a few pics of the correct tools if u want me to throw up a quick vid. I’m a Audi diag tec
Coyote 5.5 V8 TURBO & 555 Big Block Chevy Camaro The gen III’s do not suffer from timing chain failure as much as the Gen I/II’s did. Really the main failure was the tensioner assembly more than the chain itself. However, the secret is oil service. Stop changing the oil every 10k. Do it at 6-7k and use good quality oil like Liqui Moly, or Motul, or Pentosin.
relatively snoozeville which is a good thing obviously, that thrust washer is interesting, wonder why they use such a setup to introduce a point (potential) of failure, Charles, in your opinion, would you reassemble the short block(were speaking hypothetically) and put a new head and call it repaired or definitely rebuild lower end(this was a GTI engine correct?) Do Golf R motors have that much difference? great vid as always, and the chuckle at the oil pan was nice!
Why only half a thrust washer - Find and read VW SSP 606. The first paragraph tells you everything you need to know..."The reason for the new phase of development is more stringent emissions standards (Euro 6) and, of course, consumption reduction requirements, accompanied by a reduction in CO2 emissions. The powertrain was in all respects redesigned from top to bottom....Ingolstadt engineers have, during development, paid particular attention to the following points: - large number of identical parts for all engine versions - Reduction in engine weight - Reduction of engine internal friction" Half a thrust washer = reduction of engine internal friction. Other changes included smaller main bearings for the 1.8L engines, two stage oil pump, many others. The EA888 gen3 was designed first and foremost to minimize emissions.
@@acefighterpilot Interesting. I'm not sure I agree with that decision. Lower friction, okay, but it seems like it could sacrifice a lot in the long run
@@VndNvwYvvSvv I don't agree with it at all, and clearly it is sacrificing the aftermarket's ability to throw a clutch in and boost away. I was very disappointed by the internal design of this engine compared to previous VW engines. For instance the VR6 has seven 59mm diameter main bearings to support its 178 ft lbs. But the Golf R has five 42mm main bearings for its 280 ft lbs. Both are forged cranks in grey cast iron blocks. They literally do not build them like they used to. VW/Audi did everything they possibly could to reduce emissions, weight, and cost at the expensive of durability.
Funny I did that on my rsx and had rod knock after and did it twice in my stage 1 mk5 1st gen motor gti and 1st gen motor eos and both still run smooth as new I think timing chain engines are less forgiving imo
Hi, @Humblemechanic! I own a 2016 GLI with the APR I... the thing is: each time I floor it, i hear a low pitch sound coming from somewhere but i think is inside the cabin. Something like produced. I don’t like it. Any suggestion?
Hello Charles, I have a question unrelated to this video. I have a 2011 VW Touareg TDI and the climate control won't work at all. What could be the cause ?
my first car was carbureted and i had on some fancy pedal covers as soon as i merged with traffic foot to the floor as i tired back off she still wanted to go and into the cars ahead so i clutch and braked the tach went right pass 8 gran on the dash holee had to switch it off use my hand brake to main the speed while using my right foot to kick up the pedal.. them pedal cover straight into the garbage 😅
Hello I have a 2010 Passat and the oil level keeps rising and the diesel keeps going into the oil has happened multiple times have you got a clue why this happens
Lot of you guys asked about the markers I used in the video for marking pistons. I use these markers for just about everything when I mark the cars. amzn.to/3ib375v
HumbleMechanic nice, fine point. Question for you. Do the thrust washers wear out on the 1.8L version of this engine with a manual trans? Thanks for all the great videos
Can you do a 24v Vr6 tear down and rebuild maybe turbo I know you’ve done a 12v but I’d like to see a 24v maybe 4wd too 😬😬😬
Please do the 1.8l tdi
5.0 V-10 TDI.
Please try vw 2.5
You just can’t fault the quality of these videos from an education perspective. Really good stuff.
Thank you so much
Thank you guys for watching. What engine should I try and get my hands on for teardown next? ;)
It’d be really interesting to see a 2.0 tdi tear down!
@@everettcovert4755 Wonder if I Can snatch one before it gets crushed. :(.
1.4 tsi
@@tjnewberry3701 I actually have one of those here. Nothing bolted to it, just a bare engine. :)
2.5l
Mechanics like you humble make me happy. A shop did what you did over labeling on a motor I took to machine shop to look over and it made my rebuild stupid easy at home.
Great mechanics make great repairs!
Humble mechanics like you humble, inspire me to humble my self and become a Humble mechanic
very humble
Fantastically sharp video quality. It's always a treat when THM releases a new workshop tutorial; he has that special quality of holding everyone's attention. Gotta love the videos... gotta love the knowledge... gotta love The Humble Mechanic.
When people tell you to not hold the clutch in while stopped, that thrust bearing wear could be a great example as to why
hmm why is that? sorry noobie here
Yeah, I never use the clutch. When it stalls, I just use the starter in 1st gear to get it moving again. A little jumpy but my clutch is like new!
Man I dodged a bullet today in my Miata. Accidentally made the same 3-2 shift up near redline but thankfully I think I got the clutch disengaged before the RPM went too high. Engine still seems to run fine, no CEL, no weird noises, coolant temp and oil pressure seem normal. PHEW!!
I bet you ain’t one of those guys who likes to dump the clutch but rather drive it smooth on every gear change, I find it soothing when I shift as smooth as an automatic, some people just can’t drive it smooth regardless of the rpm, they gave harsher ride than a roller coaster, that’s why they screw up their things.
Money shift... from owner to mechanic.
🤣😂
😂😂😂😂
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I don't even own a VW, but this is hands down one of my favorite YT channels.
Thank you!
Good day when there’s a humble mechanic video!
Hey Charles, I don’t know if this was mentioned yet, but another way to measure piston height is to zero the dial indicator on the deck, then release and reposition the magnetic base on the deck so that the indicator foot is on the piston in the spot you want to measure. That way you can check true TDC, as well as depth or protrusion all in one step. The deck is assumed to be flat for that type of measurement, but I’ve never had a problem doing it that way.
Interesting in the thrust washer. . . I noticed the end play on my Cessna 172 O300 engine when I would grab it by the prop to pull it into position. It worried me, but then realized all of this flat engines had that end play.
There's an SB on radial crank measurement at the prop hub you can have your A&P do if you're afraid it had a prop strike earlier in its life. But they do in general have a fair bit of play, the thrust bearings are literally under the load of thrust constantly. That's why keeping up with your overhauls is important.
I drive the 2.0L TDI Golf, (2016), would love to see that engine tear down
👌
Thanks for looking into and showing us all of the things we asked about! Definitely appreciate you taking the time to do so👍🏼
Just got a new 2020 seat leon cupra 290 and have subbed as it looks like your the man to be listening too about these engines.👍🏻
It seems the owner over reacted by getting a new engine. This one seem to have sustained a lot less damage on the bottom end then the top end. Just needs a new cylinder head and it would have worked just fine. Maybe replace some of the things you mentioned. Overall very cool video.
Thanks! May have been just as much for a used engine. Plus he wants to build this one. So it may have been good to have 2
@@HumbleMechanic yeah that was my immediate thought, having the car out of comission, and paying for the labor for a rebuild probably would have cost just as much. Plus he might be able to resell the used engine when this one is finished to recover some of the funds.
Often times it's more expensive to rebuild than to replace with a good motor. Rebuilding is expensive even for simple stuff, because it's a very specialized field. As someone who rebuilds very simple old motors i can understand why someone would want a fair bit of money to rebuild a complex modern one.
Yeah just a replacement head needed. £200 approx. Edit: £900 all in & fitted. 🙂
Mom and Dad sponsored
Yes!!! Finally but also wow you got this out quick! That one thrust washer is SCARY for a 40k mile car. I know what I'm having nightmares about now!
It's a race car dude. Vastly accelerated wear on a race engine. No need to worry about your street GTI bottom end
If the car has been used in town traffic, with the driver sat on and riding the clutch at every set of lights, or doing a lot of stop/start driving in rush hour, the thrust washer will show increased wear, and all the more reason why people buy an auto/DSG if it's their daily commute as well. Also, another reason for not always riding the clutch at the lights is that it places a continued strain on the clutch pressure plate, and if the pressure plate fails, you'll be going nowhere fast.
@@AJ-bb6qb That's true, but a thrust washer should be designed to wear at a similar rate as the main bearings - as in easily capable of 200k miles regardless of driving environment. A thrust washer that wears more like a clutch is frightening.
@@acefighterpilot Agreed, and perhaps this is more a problem with recent VW engines, or could just be a bad batch of main bearing/thrust washer sets as even OEM suppliers have quality issues from time to time.
I know from my previous strip down of a 200k mile plus petrol motor from an 80's VW Golf, that had an owner who would go through clutches every 50-60k miles due to riding them, that there was only light wear on the thrust washer.
I think if it was a common problem, engine designers would have fitted multiple thrust washers across all of the main bearings to spread the lateral load.
I probably need to watch some more engine strip down vids to see if this is not an isolated case.
@@AJ-bb6qb Crank walk is proving itself to be an occasional problem on EA888s with heavy aftermarket clutches. Older engines generally have upper and lower thrust washers on either side of the center bearing, the EA888 only has the upper.
That wear on the lower main bearing would be due to increased load from the combustion stroke. Also explains why it wasn’t on the top bearing. I’ve seen it more pronounced in bigger diesel motors to the point where the bearing almost mushrooms a little.
Awesome tear down btw. I’ve watched a heap of your videos recently after purchasing a mk7 gti and now downgrading to a Tiguan *cries I’m sad vw noises*
Really enjoyed this video I just tripped the 1k on likes same 2.0 tsi in my tt nice to see the guts of the beast, keep em coming.
love all these 2.0 TSI videos, I eventually want to put one in my 2013 jetta.
How do you mess up 3rd to 4th. It's like the easiest shift
Let’s say you did mess up why would engine do that anyway I down shift all the time
Roman Skarzhinets he was probably near redline in 3rd then when he shifted to 2nd it revs way past redline there for killing the engine
GatSpeed modern engine would it let?
@@Roman-vh1rr how could it not allow it?
Roman Skarzhinets A modern engine with a rev limiter works by cutting fuel and/or spark when at the rev limit.
Unfortunately in a money shift situation like this the engine speed is being governed by the physical link from the wheel speed through the driveline, no ECU managed rev limiter could do anything to prevent it.
Hey what's up Charles been a while since I last watched one of your vids but pleased to see you're still making high quality informative vids. Good stuff 🤙
Very well explained and edited..easy to follow without having to scratch my head over and over..(like I always do watching Jason’s EE)
HAHA I often feel that way on EE videos too.
Charles can you please do a video on what clutches you recommend for a golf r mk7 \ 7.5? Manual.
that bottom looks great.. some natural wear.. the thrust washer has more wear on one side is normal based on how the engine thrust as it takes up the drive..
7:34, “I’m so dumb” I would have done the exact thing!!!
HAHAHAH It felt super relatable. I am trying to leave more of that type of thing in videos. Plus it's funny AHHA
@@HumbleMechanic it makes it more approachable, like you are not a god mechanic or something haha
I loved seeing the inside!
:) btw I’m keeping the red toolbox. I have a super cool setup planned!
HumbleMechanic I love it! I can’t wait to see it!
You probably answered what went bad on my 2006 A3. Engine failed but before it failed clutch would sometimes get stuck. But I did not have modified clutch it was the original. no slippage, so never replaced. Engine did have a rattle noise. Makes sense that the thrust washers went bad. I got rid of car had over 150k.
it also looks like its a new batch of cast metal , you can see the color difference ? im not sure , but just when they had to switch to next batch and continue pouring the mold with the ladle
over revving when the oil is cold or old will cause timing chain tensioner failure, and major disruption in the rocker gear.
Old meaning.
Those “cracks” are where the two pieces if the sand casting mold meet before the aluminum is poured into the mold.
The other day I accidentally over revved my vq35de(built engine however) to about 8k Rpm. I am really happy I didn't have any issues(that have shown yet) due to it.
Entertaining video none the less. I am also a GTi owner and this makes me happy that I own a DSG. No money shifts. 😂
Last time I saw damage like that was a friends '94 SHO with a blower on it, revving like 8 grand it had some kind of major failure in the top end and obliterated itself into another dimension.
Top quality content. Its great to learn more about these engines.
Thank you
Nice analysis.
Nice, thanks for doing a part 2 on this one 👍
Thankyou so much for making these videos Sir
Thank you for this videos, this is so interesting to watch. Keep it up.
Loved this video, I feel like I learned a lot about the engine in my VW just by watching this. Pointing out some of the common issues such as the thrust washers and how to check for abnornal wear was super interesting.
I dont know if you take reccomendations for future videos, but I think a comparison of the current gen 1.4t, 1.8t and 2.0t would be really interesting. What parts are interchangable? Do the head designs differ significantly? Etc. Being able to go in depth to the same degree as this video would be incredible, even if you just had a couple parts from each variant to show.
Awesome Video Charles! Love it
In 2015 I bought a 2010 GTI with a pretty much brand new engine. Paperwork from dealer listed “catastrophic rod failure “ as the cause of old engine dying.
Thank you so much,sire!!!
The rockers detached at some high RPM. They would have left the valves closed - Safe failure.
Man I love your videos keep up the great work!!
Having the same engine only the title induces me fear..😨😱
That little mark on the bearing is from a tiny piece of dirt under bearing during assembly
I money shifted my '99 Tercel to at least 9000 RPM once and continued beating the crap out of it for another few months with no apparent damage done. It was a pretty bad oil burner but if I'm ever broke again and need a car I know what I'm getting.
This video was great for figuring out how and where my conrod came out through my cylinder block, ill be checking more of your vids to try get a better sense of the failure until I can go and see in person, failure happened while dealer was returning my car from standard service 2 days ago. Any suggestions on potential checks for dealer fault would be very welcome. 2015 Golf R DSG EA888 CJXC
I definitely had money shifted couple times in my life, Volkswagen shift pattern has 1-2 closer to the centerline than 5-6 is (got to have something to do with the reverse, they need the 1-2 closer so they can Jam R on the left side), and the shifter takes too little effort it doesn’t give a very good feel, that’s why it’s easy to money shift from third to second. However I never drop the clutch, I always ease it out near the “biting point”, I like to shift as smooth as an automatic, and that gave me just enough time to realize my error, and correct it by depressing the clutch (engine almost sounds like vtec kicked in for a sec, and hitting 8000 rpm instead of dropping to about 4500 from 7000), I really wonder how many rpm it takes to cause damage. Who would have thought the timing of the engagement of that flimsy piece of disc (as about the size as a dinner plate) could mean the difference between life and death for the engine?
Loving these videos!!!
Charles, I have a 2014 Jetta MK6 1.8L Turbo. It's getting the Oil Light/Chime (Low pressure). It comes on once operating temps are achieved and at idle. When RPMs increase to 2000-2500 RPMs, light goes away. I've dropped the oil pan twice to inspect for sludge and it was pretty clean. Pickup tube was cleaned, oil pump has been replaced (oil pump looked good but bought one at a cheap enough price to try the swap). Oil and oil filter looking good. I've also found a radiator leak and corrected that as well. During the last oil pan drop, I found what appears to be a ball bearing about 1/4" (50mm) in size. I've watched all your engine tear down videos trying to determine where it might have come from. I'm getting ready to throw in the towel and trade this car in, but curious if you have any ideas on where it could have come from. Lastly, is oil pressure is related to bearings, is there any way to confirm that without taking the engine out and doing a full tear down? Thanks in advance! LOVE your channel and all you do here!
Thrust Bearing is correct. You were right the first time. I don't care what VW labels as... something was obviously lost in translation.
Doesn't the trans kinda hold u off from down shifting at higher revs. U either have to mega rev match or u just cant throw it into down-shift at higher speeds.
0:05 but 3rd to 2nd is not that much of a difference ? I would only expect this type of damage from say 4th to 2nd or 5th to 2nd how did this damage result from the difference of only 1 gear ? Could this damage also happen from high rpm 5th gear to 4th gear ?
It can happen at any gear with a high enough RPM
Im glad i have a tfsi s3 look at that plastic waterpump!!
Does the cam shafts bearing directly on aluminum surface? It looks kinda wrong.
Don't feel bad about calling it a thrust bearing - it's a perfectly valid term and actually suits its purpose more than "washer" does. I would use the terms interchangeably.
What should a complete rebuild of a ccta bottom end go for?
Over-rev any engine and the spinning parts cannot be trusted unless the weak link is known(camshaft for Cummins 5.9) It breaks first and the other parts have no choice but to come to a stop. What breaks first on the TSI?
Hi Man, check if petrol high pressure pump can damage the engine after changing new one? For vw tiguan 2.0
When I was a teenager my one buddy was loosing his license and wanted to drive a 5 speed one last time before handing in his license. I let him drive my 1992 4cyl mustang winter car. He redlines 2nd gear and goes to 3rd but it went into 1st gear the engine rev’d to the moon, tires screeching but didn’t blow up. Years later I’m a professional auto technician and I was really into racing Fox body mustangs and I use to rebuild/repair all my friends t-5 trannys from these mustangs. Guys like myself that had built motors would keep blowing up these transmissions and until I had the money for a better tranny I ran a bunch of these t-5’s that were from a 4cyl car and first gear was like 4.40:1 so Reving 2nd gear out and shift back to 1st is near impossible because 1st gear and the slider would be spinning at such different speeds so I have absolutely no idea how my buddy was able to slam
It in 1st lol. When I was junking the car I tried to get it into 1st it would not go in no matter the speed or what I did, I tried holding the clutch in for a while to slow the input shaft speeds in gear and in neutral, tried holding the engine wide open bouncing off the Rev limiter, slam it in really hard, reving the engine and letting off but I couldn’t get it to go into 1st until the car was almost not moving.
However one of my other friends had a 1990’s Chevy s10 4cyl 5speed winter beater and I dared him to shift it into 1st gear when we were going 50mph and he really quickly slammed it into 1st gear it actually went into gear let out the clutch fast and the truck didn’t do anything no noises, no jerking, engine didn’t Rev up but truck wouldn’t move. When he took the transmission out the clutch pretty much disintegrated lol! There was the hub part that was on the input shaft then just a pile of clutch material in the bellhousing lol. I couldn’t believe it didn’t make any noise or anything with how crazy it blew up.
I’m surprised the guy was able to get a new engine put in the car without totaling it. When my 1-year old GTI had the engine replaced under warranty the warranty paperwork said the total costs were near $17K. Did the insurance pay for a used/reconditioned motor or something? How much did it cost this guy?
Charles what is your take on the VW 508 0w20 oil resquested for all newer 2.0 TSI?
Is it not cracked through the oil hole for he cam bearings?
Cracks don't have rounded edges, but if a crack does form, that's where it'll be.
Looked like cracks on the cam risers. . .
Polishing out those lines and jagged edges on cast parts not only makes them look good and shinny, but also makes em stronger be evening out the surface tension of the entire cast part. Takes time, but worth it on high power output builds.
@@airtaiH2 shouldn't you just use forged with high power builds
@@jorge8596 where would you find a forged cylinder head?
Do the GTI and R have that same bottom end or different rods? Either way, nice to see the confirmation of how stout these bottom ends are. The anti-friction coating on the piston skirts is also nice to see.
What does the crankshaft (thrust washers) have to do with the clutch pedal?
Do you were we can get work shop manual for vw
Is that a plastic oil pan ??? or am i missing something ? (Isn't that cheap/crappy ?)
It is. This is actually becoming super common.
@Hitman yep i wouldnt have another vw if someone tryed to give the junk to me im going full pre 70s american made from now on ....
Hitman hit a speed bump plastic oil pan lived cause it flexed metal got a puncture. Engine also weighs about 100-300 pounds less
freebird1ification I understand where your coming from but if you actually knew like anything you’d understand how stupid your statement just was lol.
Hi humbleMechanic ,
I have a question, do you know if gen 3 rods pistons, can be used in a gen 2 engine? Tanks to take time to answer tks.
Interesting video. Good information. You don’t have a engine bar?
Hmm I don't quite understand how over revving can cause those scorings in behind the valves on the top end, I thought money shifts almost exclusively result in damage due to valve springs breaking or meeting the piston, it's as if the valves bent out and hit the top end walls.
Those rockers got dislodged at very high engine rpm due to miss shift, so they did rumbled in the top of the engine before they found resting spot. This particular engine could potentially end up with much worse damage.
The head actually is cracked below the intake cam journals.... on cylinder 3 and 4
Is the thrust bearing assembly the same between the GTI and the R? Is my 2019 R just as likely to have crank walk with an updated clutch as a GTI does?
Yes, it's beyond a common problem - if you have an uprated clutch in your R, eventually the thrust bearings will wear and fall out. Most engines, VR6 for instance, have upper and lower thrust washer halves, which makes it impossible for the bearings to fall out. VW sought to minimize internal engine friction to reduce emissions as much as possible with the EA888, and that included smaller main bearings in the 1.8Ls and also only upper thrust washer halves in all engines (VW SSP 606).
Some R and GTI owners have posted guides on disabling the clutch interlock so you can start the car without the clutch in, thereby reducing wear on the thrust washers during the most critical time of low oil pressure and temperature.
The ultimate solution is to have the lower main bearing caps machined to receive the missing two halves of the thrust washers, which some R owners have done. Then it is no longer possible for the washers to fall out. But bear in mind VW's main goal with the EA888 was reduced emissions, largely achieved by minimizing oil flow whenever possible. They were not thinking about folks in the aftermarket running 400whp.
When I first read SSP 606, with a look of sheer terror, I cancelled my plans to tune my 7R and I plan on offloading it the day the warranty is up. I'm going to be dead within sixty years, I really would much rather have a car that lasts twenty years rather than stave off global warming by five minutes because my car only has half a thrust washer.
acefighterpilot I really don’t think the start up could cause enough wear on the thrust bearing, it is rather those people who sit at a red light for minutes idling their engine and leave their car in first the whole time, and do it for years and years.
acefighterpilot trust me you will get bored driving that car after 20 years, you may keep it but the chance of you driving that thing everyday after twenty years is very slim, I will wait for your reply after twenty years!
@@davidgruen7423 Wear is cumulative. When you operate the clutch, you are wearing the thrust bearings. The car doesn't care why you are operating the clutch. It does however care if you are operating the clutch with no oil pressure and low oil temperature such as at start up. Try rubbing two pieces of metal together with oil and without. You can do it with oil a thousand times and it still won't leave scratches like doing it without. Disabling the interlock certainly won't stop the wear, but it will give you more time.
The Cabrio VR6 I built when I was twenty is still just as fun as the day I built it. The basic fact is the 7R is the end of the line for high power manual transmission Volkswagens. Maybe since it's so soul less it won't be as fun in twenty years as it is today, but to me it will certainly be more fun than the electric cars on the market then, for the same reason my Cabrio is more fun than it is - driver engagement.
Nice video as always. Your paint pen seemed to work really well, what do you use?
Is this something common with the manual Golf R? From what I see, it's mostly on the gti's.
Do you have an idea if of that bearing wear would show in an oil test?
Good question. I’m not sure.
I have a GTI and I've found I have to always be aware which way I'm shifting.
Is there any aftermarket solution to the thrust washer issue, I have a 2015 GTI. And I wanted to go stage 2 with a stage 2 clutch and this is pretty scary. Another RUclipsr @chicagoautopros had the same issue with his GTI and he was paying upwards of 14K for a rebuild
The valve reliefs cut into the pistons is probably what saved the bottom end and the valves from contacting the pistons when it over revved and the 'floating' occurred. I bet if it was at a higher rpm and the pistons were flat top then you'd be picking pieces of the valve out of the bores. It definitely mashed the top of the valve stems but the bottom end survived probably by its design. Apparently its 'less' of an interference motor due to all the space in between the valve, piston and quench area. Throw some bearings in that short block and it should be good to go. If you are worried about it, you can always use some plastigauge to check the tolerances. The crank material is known to be harder than the bearings, so it isn't common to see the crank wear before the babbit material starts to wear through on the bearings. Still not impressed with the TSI stuff. I'd rather have a built 1.8t (that isnt a sludge motor.) This only really happens to the longitudinal ones and not the transverse mounted.
That feel when you flip the pan and all the bolts take a hike. Been there done that 🙄
Hahaha yeah felt relatable so I left it in
"Cracks" are just where the multi-part casting forms come together
I was test driving a customer car after a repair and I also accidentally shifted from 3rd to 2nd instead of 3rd to 4th. In a split second all I heard was the engine screaming and the RPMs close to 5500, then immediately put it in neutral and reset. How the engine didn't explode, I will never know, but I'll take it. I'm surprised I didn't die from how fast my heart was racing lol
I've seen "money shift" damage in these engines before. You know what your gonna find when you pull the freeze frame data lol.
I feel lucky that when I went from third to first at 60mph that only my clutch exploded after seeing this...
Yikes
Hey Charles! What is the blue pen you used to mark the parts with and where can I find one? I have tons and tons of parts that I keep for spares and sometimes sell. I've been making them with a yellow paint pen, but for some things, that's probably not the best thing to use, especially for engine internals.
GREAT question amzn.to/3ib375v These are my go to
I recently did some chains on this engine to to chain stretch and I know you did a vid on the chains but I took a few pics of the correct tools if u want me to throw up a quick vid. I’m a Audi diag tec
I’m a VW tech myself. Done a ton of chains. Never used the tool 🤷♂️
Only use the tool to remove the crank bolt. That’s it.
@@lynxstarautomotive208 How long to the chains last from your experience? I have a 2020 GLI.
thank you.
Coyote 5.5 V8 TURBO & 555 Big Block Chevy Camaro The gen III’s do not suffer from timing chain failure as much as the Gen I/II’s did. Really the main failure was the tensioner assembly more than the chain itself.
However, the secret is oil service. Stop changing the oil every 10k. Do it at 6-7k and use good quality oil like Liqui Moly, or Motul, or Pentosin.
I feel like a lot of those markings on the bearings is debris in the oil.
relatively snoozeville which is a good thing obviously, that thrust washer is interesting, wonder why they use such a setup to introduce a point (potential) of failure, Charles, in your opinion, would you reassemble the short block(were speaking hypothetically) and put a new head and call it repaired or definitely rebuild lower end(this was a GTI engine correct?) Do Golf R motors have that much difference? great vid as always, and the chuckle at the oil pan was nice!
I’d be thorough in the replacemt. New bearing minimum
Why only half a thrust washer - Find and read VW SSP 606.
The first paragraph tells you everything you need to know..."The reason for the new phase of development is more stringent emissions standards (Euro 6) and, of course, consumption reduction requirements, accompanied by a reduction in CO2 emissions. The powertrain was in all respects redesigned from top to bottom....Ingolstadt engineers have, during development, paid particular attention to the following points:
- large number of identical parts for all engine versions
- Reduction in engine weight
- Reduction of engine internal friction"
Half a thrust washer = reduction of engine internal friction. Other changes included smaller main bearings for the 1.8L engines, two stage oil pump, many others. The EA888 gen3 was designed first and foremost to minimize emissions.
@@acefighterpilot Interesting. I'm not sure I agree with that decision. Lower friction, okay, but it seems like it could sacrifice a lot in the long run
@@VndNvwYvvSvv I don't agree with it at all, and clearly it is sacrificing the aftermarket's ability to throw a clutch in and boost away. I was very disappointed by the internal design of this engine compared to previous VW engines. For instance the VR6 has seven 59mm diameter main bearings to support its 178 ft lbs. But the Golf R has five 42mm main bearings for its 280 ft lbs. Both are forged cranks in grey cast iron blocks. They literally do not build them like they used to. VW/Audi did everything they possibly could to reduce emissions, weight, and cost at the expensive of durability.
I’ve done this on my RSX from 3rd to 1st and nothing happened just redlined and car slowed down and pivoted. That’s crazy how severe it is on VWs
That’s what I’m thinking I do it all the time on bmw 325
Funny I did that on my rsx and had rod knock after and did it twice in my stage 1 mk5 1st gen motor gti and 1st gen motor eos and both still run smooth as new I think timing chain engines are less forgiving imo
Pretty sure B motors dont even recognize the difference between a "money shift" and " WHEN V-TECH KICKS IN YO!!!"
Hi Charles, is it possible to money shift a gti dsg?
I don’t think so. But I’ve heard people have done it.
Hi, @Humblemechanic! I own a 2016 GLI with the APR I... the thing is: each time I floor it, i hear a low pitch sound coming from somewhere but i think is inside the cabin. Something like produced. I don’t like it. Any suggestion?
u already know like but soak the strate edge in oil get it less rusty
looking to purchase a mk7.5 GTI..im leaving it stock. but should i worry about crank walk?
The best thing about this engine is the good bolt holes., . so you can attach a chain and use it as a boat anchor. . .
Hahahah that’s my favorite boat anchor set up yet.
Hello Charles, I have a question unrelated to this video. I have a 2011 VW Touareg TDI and the climate control won't work at all. What could be the cause ?
my first car was carbureted and i had on some fancy pedal covers as soon as i merged with traffic foot to the floor as i tired back off she still wanted to go and into the cars ahead so i clutch and braked the tach went right pass 8 gran on the dash holee had to switch it off use my hand brake to main the speed while using my right foot to kick up the pedal.. them pedal cover straight into the garbage 😅
i was just wondering, if those trusth washers are worn out, woldn't that cause the rear/front main seal to fall out or cause an oil leak?
Possible. But I think before that happens they cause other issues or simply drop into the pan
Hello I have a 2010 Passat and the oil level keeps rising and the diesel keeps going into the oil has happened multiple times have you got a clue why this happens
I’ve seen fuel injectors leaking do that.
Injectors are leaking between cylinder head and injector frame. Is is pumpdüse engine or CR?
How do you find out which injector it is that’s leaking ?