Apparently there are discrepancies about purchasing inferior aftermarket pumps on these. If anyone wants to add a link in the description of a water pump, or companies selling pumps that are not inferior please do so. Commenting about what some other RUclipsr says, or linking a comment to some other RUclipsrs video, about what they have to say about only buying factory pumps is not my idea of productive behavior. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video. The job looked like it was pretty straight forward as I expected it would be. The pump on my 500 is going by the wayside after 266,000 miles. It's too bad Ford decided to go with internal water pumps.
the video was really solid and helps out so much- but if youre going to pop the cap on the radiator you should also do a quick explanation as how to then purge the lines of the air before the bubble possibly gets to the heater core and stops heat from comeing into the cabin.
Don't know if i'm reading this wrong, but will say it anyways. No heat in cabin is an indication of low coolant. All air will works its way to the highest point in the cooling system.
2005 500 here. Original Water pump had teeth worn down creating no water circulation. Now new pump has teeth worn & no circ. Space on Shaft looks bad. Do I replace shaft?
@@65geoman aftermarket pumps can have issues. I cannot tell you what you need to do, without looking at the vehicle. Most people with your problem would probably get a pump from ford.
I have a 2006 Montego I’m going through the same thing it overheats when I’m accelerating but if I’m coming to a stop or just sitting in park it starts to level back out
my 2005 is doing that. Do you remember what it was? Ive already put a new thermostat and water pump on. Didnt overheat for about 3 weeks after I put the new water pump on...but the last week or so, its been doing that.
I'm having a rattle sound coming from the engine bay, upon further diagnosis it seems like the sound is coming from driver side where the water pump at. No overheating or engine light but the mechanic told me it might be a bad timing chain. But, those are on the passenger side right? And also the sounds been there for over 1000 miles now and if it was a timing chain rattling issue it must have jumped atleast once throwing some misfire or engine light. It would be really helpful if you shed some light over my issue. Thank You
My 07 500 hundred is doing the same thing and I can't figure it out. I've done the thermostat and water pump and my buddy fixed another part and can't remember what he did but all I can think of is the radiator
I had a massive leak today in my ford five hundred 07. I dont think it was a hose. I think it was the factory gasget or the bering in the housing blew a seal. What do you think ? Any input helps and if i get a raidiator pressure tester should i use it before i just start taking everything apart ? Or try the stop leak ford pellets ? Ive herd thing like that are bad for your engine in the long run what do you suggest i do and where should i start? What whould you do in my situation?
I have a 2007 ford five hundred. Im having some issues with the AC. When the sun is out, my ac blows hot air unless I am driving at a steady speed, no stops. When i press on the gas it blows cold air. When its a cloudy day, my ac will blow cold, especially in morning before noon and late evening. But when i stop, the air blows warmer. Same during the winter. if im driving straight, pressing on the gas, i have heat but when i stop i get cold air. My water pump does need replacing therefore i currently have water in there but this was an issue before my water pump went bad. do you think it could be my expansion valve or condensor fan?
Sounds like for whatever reason your system pressures are getting too high, and your high pressure switch is shutting down the system, until the pressure gets low enough. Suspect fan, plugged condenser, overchargedsystem, or something.
Ok I learned that w/Lincoln cars and aviators that ford has weird parts like external water auxiliaries to circulate the coolant along with the water pump
How many miles did the car have on it ? I have a 2006 Ford five hundred with 140,000 , I'm not having any problems, but should I replace as preventive maintenance ? Thanks
I HAD A FORD FREESTYLE WITH 298K before the transmission gave out and wasn't going to spend 6k on a new one. but my 2005 five hundred been owning for 13 years never gave me a problem except for basic maintenance. Also just bought a 06 Mercury Montego wrecked for 200.00 and spent 500.00 on it and its complete with only 101k. so I do like these cars
I seen a few people say it's best to use an original Ford water pump that bolts on to the can shaft instead of the ears, have you heard of this? Thank you
The keyed to cam type pumps for these 3.0 motors suck. They don't last at all. Plus they've been known to damage cam end. Use bolt up to cam type pumps only on these. They are available in after market bolt to cam types. Motorcraft will burn you a new one if you go with them. Seen em on Amazon also that are after market bolt to cam. Those clamps can be a booger to prevent leaking. Those keyed pumps are notorious for causing overheating. The slots wear off and fail to turn pump impeller.
After assembling the water pump and everything is connected, The question filled with new coolant, the question is what should I do after starting the car this facial or I have to do something else, I guess why there should be air in the engine.
I forgot to mention to burp the system like all other vehicles. This particular vehicle does a really good job of bleeding the coolant out on its own with gravity, because of the way the cooling system is set up, and the fact that the reservoir is the highest part in the system. Fill it, get it hot, and check the level after it gets cold again. I believe the level mark is cold. A lot of fords are this way.
Is there an easy solution to figure out if your thermostat is the issue or if the water pump is the issue? Or do I have to run the same test you did in the video? Thanks
Aftermarket water pumps use the cam keyway and tabs, they always fail and chew up the cam keyway was they do. The original Ford waterpump used a bolt that screwed into the cam. You want to use a waterpump with the cam bolt.
Leave it up to Ford to design a shitty water pump! I swear sometimes I feel like they make this stuff so that it'll fail and then the car over heats and cracks the block... Terrible design, what do you think? OKAY BYE!
Well, it was easy enough to do, and they were smart enough to make the material on the pump keys soft enough to sheer, instead of grenade the cam, so I would call it a soft failure.
Yeah, I hear what you are saying. What if this customer was driving through Arizona, say for a few hundred miles and this happened, you think it would have blown the engine? And I have to agree, seemed pretty easy to replace, didn't have to mess with any serpentine belt!
Apparently there are discrepancies about purchasing inferior aftermarket pumps on these. If anyone wants to add a link in the description of a water pump, or companies selling pumps that are not inferior please do so. Commenting about what some other RUclipsr says, or linking a comment to some other RUclipsrs video, about what they have to say about only buying factory pumps is not my idea of productive behavior. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video. The job looked like it was pretty straight forward as I expected it would be. The pump on my 500 is going by the wayside after 266,000 miles. It's too bad Ford decided to go with internal water pumps.
Everything used to get Perma-tex sealant. God help the next guy. Thank you for sharing.
Andrew K I just did mine hope it works
Always good stuff, hadnt seen a fancy water pump like that before, weird symptoms for sure
You can find it’s got a aftermarket water pump on it you have to do OEM
The oem one broke?
the video was really solid and helps out so much- but if youre going to pop the cap on the radiator you should also do a quick explanation as how to then purge the lines of the air before the bubble possibly gets to the heater core and stops heat from comeing into the cabin.
Don't know if i'm reading this wrong, but will say it anyways. No heat in cabin is an indication of low coolant. All air will works its way to the highest point in the cooling system.
Thank you for your video!!! I have a 500 & it help me so much. I hope you can do more videos. Help me so much but thank you!!!
2005 500 here. Original Water pump had teeth worn down creating no water circulation. Now new pump has teeth worn & no circ. Space on Shaft looks bad. Do I replace shaft?
@@65geoman aftermarket pumps can have issues. I cannot tell you what you need to do, without looking at the vehicle. Most people with your problem would probably get a pump from ford.
I have a 2006 Montego I’m going through the same thing it overheats when I’m accelerating but if I’m coming to a stop or just sitting in park it starts to level back out
my 2005 is doing that. Do you remember what it was? Ive already put a new thermostat and water pump on. Didnt overheat for about 3 weeks after I put the new water pump on...but the last week or so, its been doing that.
Also don't forget to line up that gear on the water pump when do you install the new one.
I'm having a rattle sound coming from the engine bay, upon further diagnosis it seems like the sound is coming from driver side where the water pump at. No overheating or engine light but the mechanic told me it might be a bad timing chain. But, those are on the passenger side right? And also the sounds been there for over 1000 miles now and if it was a timing chain rattling issue it must have jumped atleast once throwing some misfire or engine light. It would be really helpful if you shed some light over my issue. Thank You
Noises can travel funny. It doesn't usually jump time, unless it is extremely loose. I cannot diagnose your noise.
My 07 500 hundred is doing the same thing and I can't figure it out. I've done the thermostat and water pump and my buddy fixed another part and can't remember what he did but all I can think of is the radiator
I had a massive leak today in my ford five hundred 07. I dont think it was a hose. I think it was the factory gasget or the bering in the housing blew a seal. What do you think ? Any input helps and if i get a raidiator pressure tester should i use it before i just start taking everything apart ? Or try the stop leak ford pellets ? Ive herd thing like that are bad for your engine in the long run what do you suggest i do and where should i start? What whould you do in my situation?
Well the first thing I would do is see where it is coming from, and then fix it. Other than that, I don't know.
@@RustBeltAuto leak seams to be coming from a 2$ oring on the exiting side of the pump were the black pvc plastic hose manifold bolts to
I have a 2007 ford five hundred. Im having some issues with the AC. When the sun is out, my ac blows hot air unless I am driving at a steady speed, no stops. When i press on the gas it blows cold air. When its a cloudy day, my ac will blow cold, especially in morning before noon and late evening. But when i stop, the air blows warmer. Same during the winter. if im driving straight, pressing on the gas, i have heat but when i stop i get cold air. My water pump does need replacing therefore i currently have water in there but this was an issue before my water pump went bad. do you think it could be my expansion valve or condensor fan?
Sounds like for whatever reason your system pressures are getting too high, and your high pressure switch is shutting down the system, until the pressure gets low enough. Suspect fan, plugged condenser, overchargedsystem, or something.
Great job but I'm curious if it has a auxiliary water pump
I don't think so. European cars are about the only things that create such nonsense.
Ok I learned that w/Lincoln cars and aviators that ford has weird parts like external water auxiliaries to circulate the coolant along with the water pump
How many miles did the car have on it ? I have a 2006 Ford five hundred with 140,000 , I'm not having any problems, but should I replace as preventive maintenance ? Thanks
Don't know. It would be fun to see how much of your notches are left, if you are into that kind of thing.
I HAD A FORD FREESTYLE WITH 298K before the transmission gave out and wasn't going to spend 6k on a new one. but my 2005 five hundred been owning for 13 years never gave me a problem except for basic maintenance. Also just bought a 06 Mercury Montego wrecked for 200.00 and spent 500.00 on it and its complete with only 101k. so I do like these cars
I seen a few people say it's best to use an original Ford water pump that bolts on to the can shaft instead of the ears, have you heard of this? Thank you
I hope you used a Ford original water pump. I've heard the aftermarket pumps are not made the same. The teeth break off after a short time.
What happens when the teeth break off pump
The keyed to cam type pumps for these 3.0 motors suck. They don't last at all. Plus they've been known to damage cam end. Use bolt up to cam type pumps only on these. They are available in after market bolt to cam types. Motorcraft will burn you a new one if you go with them. Seen em on Amazon also that are after market bolt to cam. Those clamps can be a booger to prevent leaking. Those keyed pumps are notorious for causing overheating. The slots wear off and fail to turn pump impeller.
Changed the thermostat now its Leaking around the thermostat housing 🤔 wasn't a gasket there just don't understand
Should be a rubber o-ring. Maybe you didn't notice because it is smushed, and looked like the rest of it.
After assembling the water pump and everything is connected, The question filled with new coolant, the question is what should I do after starting the car this facial or I have to do something else, I guess why there should be air in the engine.
I forgot to mention to burp the system like all other vehicles. This particular vehicle does a really good job of bleeding the coolant out on its own with gravity, because of the way the cooling system is set up, and the fact that the reservoir is the highest part in the system. Fill it, get it hot, and check the level after it gets cold again. I believe the level mark is cold. A lot of fords are this way.
@@RustBeltAuto Did it work?
@@nonarcsense did what work?
@@RustBeltAuto the Waterpump replacement...did it fix the problem?
@@nonarcsense Yes. Right up until the transmission took a dump.
Is there an easy solution to figure out if your thermostat is the issue or if the water pump is the issue? Or do I have to run the same test you did in the video? Thanks
This strange thing got cooler when it idled, and overheated when driving.
@@RustBeltAuto this is what mines is doing
Aftermarket water pumps use the cam keyway and tabs, they always fail and chew up the cam keyway was they do.
The original Ford waterpump used a bolt that screwed into the cam. You want to use a waterpump with the cam bolt.
Check your water pump and make sure it doesn’t have a aftermarket water pump on it
Leave it up to Ford to design a shitty water pump! I swear sometimes I feel like they make this stuff so that it'll fail and then the car over heats and cracks the block... Terrible design, what do you think? OKAY BYE!
Well, it was easy enough to do, and they were smart enough to make the material on the pump keys soft enough to sheer, instead of grenade the cam, so I would call it a soft failure.
Yeah, I hear what you are saying. What if this customer was driving through Arizona, say for a few hundred miles and this happened, you think it would have blown the engine? And I have to agree, seemed pretty easy to replace, didn't have to mess with any serpentine belt!
@@BarnStangz if your stuck in Arizona, you call the Texas chain saw masochist and have him fix it.
Yes sir, all of Leather Face's victims drove Fords!
@@BarnStangz 😝
Ok so there are two types & this one comes right off without taking center bolt out of pump
Lol lol just fucking around but alot of times the pumps are very hard to get off of the cam