We moved into a place where the previous owners left an old, non-running, Montgomery Ward lawnmower with a 3.5 briggs and stratton sprint motor. After rebuilding the carb, replacing the gas tank, overall cleaning, and restringing the pull start, it had this same terrible screech and would rip the pull cord up pretty bad. Your video saved me from throwing my hands up. Thank you sir.
Thanks Bruce. We had this problem in Dad's mower back in '65. I did not know to get past the screen, so it stayed that way. 50 years later, and you have shown me how to fix it for next time I come across this problem :-).
Hi Bruce! Just repaired my dad's 28 years old sprint 375 B&S mower by following your instructions. Sir you just saved an old gem! Works like it's new. Greetings from Hungary! Thank you and take care! Cheers!
Hey Bruce, thanks for this great video! BTW, I just had the same problem and you told me where it is hiding, however I found an EASY way to lubricate the ratchet WITHOUT REMOVING it :)) NOTICE: the little hole on top of the ratchet in min 3:05 into the movie. It is a lubricating hole. BASICALY: insert fresh oil through that hole, while loosening and removing the rust from the shaft. PROCEDURE: A-create a container (a bawl) on top of the ratchet by pushing a 2" long piece of rubber tubing on to the ratchet B-pour a couple of table spoons of fresh oil into that container. C-repeatedly shift/move/bounce the ratchet up and down by hand for at least a minute, it has about 1/8" of play . Fresh oil will be sucked in while rusty oil will rise out of the ratchet. C1 - Air compressor may also be used to push fresh oil into the ratchet while the rusty will ooze around the base. C2 - Heating the ratchet with a hair dryer will help the oil flow. NOTE: >>>use 5-20W engine oil, heavier oil may keep the little balls in the ratchet from rolling and doing their job.
Thank you so much, I came across an antique snapper and couldnt find the screeching for the life of me, but now I know where to look. Experience and knowledge really are worth passing on.
Been working on those since the 70s. Clutch tools are 8 bucks. Try it with an impact. It will save the fins. Ck the flywheel key, 80 grit the crank snout. Carb cleaner, steel wool and needle nose for the clutch drive. Re-assemble dry. COOL SHOP!
Brilliant demo Bruce, I have an edger with 3.5 Briggs, its been doing this for a while. The noise is awful. I sprayed it with lube but it was only a temporary fix. Now I know how to fix it properly! You've inspired me to head to my shop and pull it apart. And that workshop lift! I often find it awkward working on mowers and such like. With a lift like yours, the job would be a breeze. Thanks for posting....
Thanks for the video Bruce, I have a 1966 B&S 4 hp horizontal shaft on a BobCat snowblower and the screeching is a reoccurring issue that I am accustomed to servicing often, and to me these old machines are worth the effort to keep running.
You are right. It bugs me when I can't revive one but it happens. (not here). I have the B&S clutch removal now thanks to George Durivage. (a subscriber sent me some tools)
Great video, I bought two lawnmowers from a friend that have been sitting in storage for several years. I got the first one to run and has a screeching sound. I will do this next and go from there.
Right on. The first one may nee oil on the clutch shaft. This is an older video and my tools are better now but this will solve the screech (year 2014) ruclips.net/video/lmODx4b8WQ0/видео.html
I have a 42 year old 5HP Briggs engine on a push blower which is a hand me down from a good neighbor who sadly is incapacitated and can't use it anymore (thanks Joe!) with that starter clutch setup. They are fearfully noisy when they get dried up like that. Got the B&S clutch removal tool and that makes it much easier as you know. Temptation on those things is to grease them to stop the noise which is logical but won't work. A couple of drops of oil on that felt pad is just the ticket. I must say that, at about age 40 (on the engine) the clutch started screeching on a recurring basis so I threw in the towel and got a new one. Well worth the money to keep the old warhorse humming along. It still runs at almost 3,600 RPM and blows like a champ! I'd do just about anything to keep it running. I love that old stuff. Not a piece of plastic anywhere on the engine and it has a Pulsa Jet carb on it, too. Those things are sort of a pain because they are part of the tank. Good thing is that the parts on the carburetor are big enough that it's easy to work on (once it's disengaged from the tank).
Thank you for pointing me in the right direction. I actually had only one bearing out of the five. Found the oil hole snd made sure it had plenty of oil. No squealing. Now to cut the lawn😅
Brett Frazee I got mine at princess auto $230.00 on sale I know you can buy them at harbour freight also..it's the best thing I have bought..saves the knees and back bigtime
I ran over cardboard and it stopped the mower, pulled out the cardboard and now it has terrible screeching noise.. lowered the throttle and the screeching stopped, but soon as it's up a little it screeches soo loud. What do you think?
I have a Briggs 3.5 classic 1994 20 inch mower and it has been very good to me and the head gasket blew and I replaced it. Still have it to this day runs amazing:-)
I have an old tuff cut 22" that I did this on twice in 2014..... but I didnt think to do the drill bit or screwdriver inside of the thing.. Going to be pulling this apart and doing it again before I even attempt to start it for spring even though I just put it back together in december! also someone told me to use AutoMatic Transfluid?? It supposedly lasts longer?? I wonder if I could use lithium grease?
Bruce, Thank you for another fantastic video. At 1 minute, you mentioned the fuel blend that you use for priming, is 10% 2-stroke oil and 90% gasoline. Why such a high ratio of oil to fuel ? Is there any particular reason ? Would it be easier to start with less oil than 10% (like 2% or 2.5%, or no oil at all ?) Thank you, yours, Tom.
A while back I removed an old B&S 206cc 5hp motor from a walk behind mower, I tested it out and it's making the same screeching noise, hope to sort it out tomorrow using your method. Also, What is purpose of the single thin insulated black wire that is under the pull start cowling near the carb and protrudes out near the fuel tank? Thankyou for the vid! :)
Good on you! This is what I love about RUclips and the effort people make to share ideas and solutions. Thank you for your effort and clear explanation. Problem solved :-) Cheers from DownUnder Aus.
Your awesome pops. Any pointers on rethreading a spark plugs port? I did it on a Troy bilt that was given to me but the new thread insert doesn't stay in?
I did. I put a bunch of grease on it to catch the aluminum shavings then I used a high temp RTV on the thread insert once I threaded it on the spark plug. I then installed the spark plug but I didn't put a lot of tension on it and then waited 24 hours before using it. I removed the spark plug and the insert came out with it.
got a problem Sears lawn mower snapback real bad when you pull the cord pulled off the fly wheel to check the key way no problem them. it dam near takes your fingers off when you start it any thing more i can check thanks sam.
bruce ive a question. my lawn mower starts easy, but when its warmed up, and i shut it off for a few seconds, then try to start it again, it starts hard, sometime i have to prime it. i think its a carburetor problem, what do you think? db
Just FYI, Briggs has a special tool for removing that kind of starter clutch. It's a socket, not expensive, I can't say where to get it though. Bruce got those oddball oil filter pliers to work, no damage inflicted, so very much OK. One other thing, though, trapping the aluminum fins on the flywheel is risky business. Trapping the blade with a 2x4, or using the special tool, which I have, but can't say where I got it, does the job without fracturing fins. Not that Bruce would fracture anything, he knows what he's doing. But hey, I got this wild hair for special tools.
I had the same problem at my ancient Yard-Man, but can't figure out how to disasamble the unit. So i soaked it from the top with a thin oil. It worked for now.
@@BrucesShop seriously like who would say or think your video is not good? I actually have learned many things from watching your videos. It's what it comes down to. Educational videos. Those who thumb down maybe don't understand what 1+1 equals to.
Why do you put two stroke oil in to the primer gas? Is it to lubricate the fuel system because these old motors have probably been sitting for a while?
I bought the same primer can, it worked great coaching my Craftsman 6.75 HP Tecumseh Engine to start. That prime bulb is not my favorite on a Tecumseh, sometime 2 or 3 pumps and other time 10 pumps to start, but only 3 pumps from the red primer can gets every time,.. ZA-ROOM! and it stays run-ning. (Forest Gump!) HA!
I noticed your antler mounts in the background as well. Did you harvest those deer from Alberta? My wife is from Iowa and they have the biggest whitetails i have ever seen in my life. I am from PA and we have the same size deer that are on your wall. Iowa deer make our deer look like babies.
Yes The truck is a 98. 170 kms on it. It is my baby. Here is a link on the truck My Chev Trucks 16th Birthday!!! There are a lot of bigger deer around here but none on my wall !!!! They are bigger because they are smarter than me.
Bruce, do you have a video on a 3.5 hp Briggs & Stratton recoil starter there are 4 tabs that hold the plastic recoil rope normally you use 2 tabs of the 4 with 2 spares 3 of the 4 tabs are broke unfortunately a new recoil starter is no longer available since this engine is a 1988 model # 92902 3271-01 how would you repair this weld some tabs on to replace the broken ones?
I just had this problem and replaced the entire shroud. I thought of welding on new tabs but I had a recoil in the shed. Not the best because the date is on the shroud
Bruce Pender Good job done! The problem with my tiller is that it only starts, when it wants to. If the engine has been going for a while, it stops suddenly. I then have let it rest for some hours before it starts again. (If it has a good day). The start clutch looks quite similar to the one you had on that mower. I fixed the problem with the clutch some weeks ago, and it works fine. However, the rest of the engine needs a check. Haha, had to pull down the volume here while you sanded that thing. The sound went through my bones here. Lol.. Like scratching your nails on a galvanized iron sheet. Best wishes, Halvor.
@@BrucesShop thanks for the reply! Someone else told me it may be the "sear spring?" I don't know what that looks like or if I could even buy that part at a hardware store. Also, do you know anything about a garage door that won't even try to open? thanks
ha wow that is just what it needed to be fix. it is a 4 stroke Briggs' with a horizontal shaft and run's but makes that noisy sound. I have called her or it big birtha and lives up to its name it got me zapped 5 times by trying to do a compression test lol good times thanks.
You can get a small workbench ultrasonic acid cleaner for like $100. If you are going to clean a lot of small engine parts it is one hell of a lot easier, faster and more effective than sitting and sticking sandpaper in a hole with a drill bit.
Here is the info on the lift. I added a 2foot by 3 foot 3/4 inch plywood to the top with a lip on the edge. It was gift from my wife bought it at a Canadian Store Called Princess Auto. Here is the link to the lift www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Moving-Equipment/660-lb-Scissor-Lift-Cart/8017549.p Here is a Harbor Freight similar product for the U.S. www.harborfreight.com/1000-lbs-capacity-hydraulic-table-cart-69148.html it is a bit more money but this may help your search.
There's a little hole in the top of the clutch that is there to add 30w oil to. Inside is a felt piece that "stores" the lubricant. No need to tear these clutches apart. You should have known.
Easy now. You are right but most.of those hose clutches get so corroded you can't even pull them apart. On those one the felt acts like a plug and wont let the oil in. Most of the shafts under the plug have to be sanded with 400 grit just so they rotate. I have done hundreds.
@@BrucesShop #399671 In the past 43 years I got the part number memorized. Using the red nozzle you can squirt carb cleaner in the hole first to loosen the gum. If that fails, then take it apart. When I did this for a living, I'd just replace it with a new one and make an easy 10 or so bucks. Toss the old one or keep the balls for a wrist rocket. I just see so many videos here from people claiming to be mechanics it drives me batty! donyboy73 is a good example. Guys taking blower housings completely apart to replace a rope and/or recoil spring. Brigg's are designed to be able to replace ropes and springs w/o taking it apart. I can even do it w/o removing the blower housing. Easy money. Takes 5 minutes and charge customer 1/2 hour labor.
This is only a temporary fix and the starter clutch will inevitably lock up on the shaft again no matter how much you clean or lubricate it! It's a bad design as the heat from the engine makes the crankshaft expand and leads to it locking up on the shaft when the motor gets hot and this is especially bad on a horizontally mounted Briggs motor as heat travels upwards and the end of the crankshaft that slots into the starter clutch pawl is the highest point on those motors :( An aftermarket company really needs to make a conversion kit for these motors or alternatively you could reem out the hole in the starter pawl at the risk of it becoming to loose on the shaft :(
Well my tiller was done 15 tears ago and is still going. Finely sanding with 600 paper helps a lot and using a fine grade oil on the felt pad helps. You are correct though they all aren't successful.
I used to be a small motor mechanic and these starter clutches would play up all the time and destroy starter pulleys and starter recoil springs all the time by catching and trying to wind the starter pulley backwards :( Great when they're working but a pain in the arse for users and mechanics when they're not, especially commercial lawnmower guys! There's a reason in the industry why their known as "Briggs and Strife" LOL :P
the older 3.5 Hp Briggs and Stratton engines -the 2000s are much better its around the 2000s up to today the 3.5 before it was replaced with that motor and the professional series are all failure prone as they are using PLASTIC camshafts and timing gears. i used to have a 3.5 hp in a 1979 Snapper cast deck as it had a vertical pull starter as it had a toothed flywheel for that as i recalled i replaced the fuel tank with a pulsaprime carburetor with the primer bulb and converted the ignition the the later magnatron ignition and cut the wires to the points case. as all Briggs and Stratton engines prior to 1982 had a points ignition under the flywheel under an alunimum cover when they came out with the Magnatron electronic ignition they did away with the cover and points alltogether they call it an ignition armature the early magnatron had a seperate module mounted on the armature the ones on the later one are a composite type. as now Briggs and Stratton cheapened down in engine building in favor of PLASTIC parts if you have to repower your mower find an older Briggs engine rebuild it it should outlast the life of the mower as now Briggs and Stratton for their utility horizontal shaft engines are now imported from China the blocks are a clone of a Honda engine. as the 3.5 hp most parts are interchangable on them it its a later block it will have the mounts for the fuel tank and the vertical pull starter. blocks made since the early 1980s have provisions for that compliance blade brake system if its a nonmower application like a pressure washer or a snowthrower it will have a cast iron flywheel. if u find a junkyard in your area and score a good 3.5 Briggs and Stratton get it if u do get a new mower mount this 3.5 on it the new briggs engines are junk.
thank you for posting. when did the world stop identifying bolts, nuts etc by the thread size [1/4-20] & start identifying by the size wrench/socket you need [7/16"] ? my g'father must be turning over.
Thanks for that information you have been able to help us out and it works from kerikeri new Zealand we are not allowed to have guns otherwise I would have shot it
@@BrucesShop Of course I did... Been fixing those since the 70's. I just replied to the title for anyone who needs an answer asap.. As you didn't put the fix in the description...
@@BrucesShop , good video though man, no disrespect, my generator making a squill and i hope this is the same fix. About the same build of engine but its 8 hp. So thanks for the video. :)
Btw love that you get to the point and show the work, you didnt explain the history of the gasoline engine for 15 min like some of the other vids on here. Im working on fixing my generator now ill post back if it exploded or not.
Ok, totally mechanically challenged mother of 5 here. Trying to tackle this. Lawnmower was doing the same. Did exactly what you did but the large round spinny thingy is what will not turn not the thing in the center of it that u took out and lubed up. Now what? Excuse my ignorant female terminology. Lol.
Remember to squeeze the brake handle first. There is a little tiny bake to stop the motor on the flywheel when you let it go. That may be it. Take the spark plug out and put some oil in the hole. Then see if it turns.
Bruce Pender thats exactly what i was forgetting to do! Lol! i figured it out tho, eventually. Duh. No more squeak now! Yay me! Ha! Who needs to wait till their husband comes home from work to fix the mower. Not this lady! Lol! Thank you! Hubs is going to be majorly impressed. 😁
The hardest part was putting everything back together! Geez. I hope all the screws are in their right places. As long as it doesnt fall apart the next time hubs uses it, its all good. 😂
I know you won't see this, but you just saved my 1971 motor restoration. Thank you
Well !!! I did see it. Thanks you made my day!!!
We moved into a place where the previous owners left an old, non-running, Montgomery Ward lawnmower with a 3.5 briggs and stratton sprint motor. After rebuilding the carb, replacing the gas tank, overall cleaning, and restringing the pull start, it had this same terrible screech and would rip the pull cord up pretty bad. Your video saved me from throwing my hands up. Thank you sir.
Perfect. You made my day
Thanks Bruce. We had this problem in Dad's mower back in '65. I did not know to get past the screen, so it stayed that way. 50 years later, and you have shown me how to fix it for next time I come across this problem :-).
+David Tangye Cool good luck
Hi Bruce! Just repaired my dad's 28 years old sprint 375 B&S mower by following your instructions. Sir you just saved an old gem! Works like it's new. Greetings from Hungary! Thank you and take care! Cheers!
Thanks for watching
Thanks Bruce, I've learned a lot by watching your channel. When ever I have a problem I usually find a cure here. Thanks again.
Jerry Dineen Thank you Jerry
Hey Bruce, thanks for this great video! BTW, I just had the same problem and you told me where it is hiding, however I found an EASY way to lubricate the ratchet WITHOUT REMOVING it :))
NOTICE: the little hole on top of the ratchet in min 3:05 into the movie. It is a lubricating hole.
BASICALY: insert fresh oil through that hole, while loosening and removing the rust from the shaft.
PROCEDURE:
A-create a container (a bawl) on top of the ratchet by pushing a 2" long piece of rubber tubing on to the ratchet
B-pour a couple of table spoons of fresh oil into that container.
C-repeatedly shift/move/bounce the ratchet up and down by hand for at least a minute, it has about 1/8" of play . Fresh oil will be sucked in while rusty oil will rise out of the ratchet. C1 - Air compressor may also be used to push fresh oil into the ratchet while the rusty will ooze around the base. C2 - Heating the ratchet with a hair dryer will help the oil flow.
NOTE: >>>use 5-20W engine oil, heavier oil may keep the little balls in the ratchet from rolling and doing their job.
Thanks a lot. I did know abut this but i usually take these a apart due to rust ratchet mechanism but you explanation was spot on.
Thank you so much, I came across an antique snapper and couldnt find the screeching for the life of me, but now I know where to look. Experience and knowledge really are worth passing on.
You are welcome!
@@BrucesShop thanks to you I got this 1984 snapper purring like a kitten. You are the man!
This video still paying dividends. Saved my old B&S lawnmower from being discarded. Such a simple fix!
Perfect
Been working on those since the 70s.
Clutch tools are 8 bucks. Try it with an impact. It will save the fins.
Ck the flywheel key,
80 grit the crank snout.
Carb cleaner, steel wool and needle nose for the clutch drive.
Re-assemble dry.
COOL SHOP!
+aracp I do love my little shop
Great advice about sanding out the clutch as well, along with using the oil filter wrench for removing the clutch from the flywheel.
Brilliant demo Bruce, I have an edger with 3.5 Briggs, its been doing this for a while. The noise is awful. I sprayed it with lube but it was only a temporary fix.
Now I know how to fix it properly! You've inspired me to head to my shop and pull it apart. And that workshop lift! I often find it awkward working on mowers and such like. With a lift like yours, the job would be a breeze. Thanks for posting....
You are so welcome.
Thanks for the video Bruce, I have a 1966 B&S 4 hp horizontal shaft on a BobCat snowblower and the screeching is a reoccurring issue that I am accustomed to servicing often, and to me these old machines are worth the effort to keep running.
You are right. It bugs me when I can't revive one but it happens. (not here). I have the B&S clutch removal now thanks to George Durivage. (a subscriber sent me some tools)
Great as always Bruce, I appreciate your careful, methodical work. It shows you care about what you're doing.
Great video, I bought two lawnmowers from a friend that have been sitting in storage for several years. I got the first one to run and has a screeching sound. I will do this next and go from there.
Right on. The first one may nee oil on the clutch shaft. This is an older video and my tools are better now but this will solve the screech (year 2014)
ruclips.net/video/lmODx4b8WQ0/видео.html
Thank you so much for this! My sprint 375 had this exact issue and I'd just about given up trying to fix it when I found this! It's good as new now!
Glad it helped!.
I have a 42 year old 5HP Briggs engine on a push blower which is a hand me down from a good neighbor who sadly is incapacitated and can't use it anymore (thanks Joe!) with that starter clutch setup. They are fearfully noisy when they get dried up like that. Got the B&S clutch removal tool and that makes it much easier as you know. Temptation on those things is to grease them to stop the noise which is logical but won't work. A couple of drops of oil on that felt pad is just the ticket. I must say that, at about age 40 (on the engine) the clutch started screeching on a recurring basis so I threw in the towel and got a new one. Well worth the money to keep the old warhorse humming along. It still runs at almost 3,600 RPM and blows like a champ! I'd do just about anything to keep it running. I love that old stuff. Not a piece of plastic anywhere on the engine and it has a Pulsa Jet carb on it, too. Those things are sort of a pain because they are part of the tank. Good thing is that the parts on the carburetor are big enough that it's easy to work on (once it's disengaged from the tank).
I call those Pulsa Jet Carbs ------------- atmospheric fuel injection
That's why i love briggs n strat engines they'll run forever with a little tlc.
I like your truck in the background. That's my favorite body style.
1jonat Here is a link to look at the truck
My Chev Trucks 16th Birthday!!!
Bruce
It is 20 this year
It's a youngin'; my F250 is 33 this year. ;)
I was able to fix my lawnmower with this video. Thanks Bruce.
That is so cool.
Thank you for pointing me in the right direction. I actually had only one bearing out of the five. Found the oil hole snd made sure it had plenty of oil. No squealing. Now to cut the lawn😅
Perfect.
Thanks mate for the tutorial! Saved my 30+ lawnmower :)
That is too cool. Thanks for the reply
Thank you for this film. Fixed my mower. Saved me money. $$$.
Perfect
I watched your video with your new lift bought one this week and added the wood like you did..what a back saver.thank you for the great idea...
+D Lastname Good for you. You won't believe how much you use it. Sometimes I even roll it out of the garage to use as a portable bench.
+Bruce Pender where do I find one of those lifts? I'm a mower mechanic myself and i want one for my shop.
Brett Frazee I got mine at princess auto $230.00 on sale I know you can buy them at harbour freight also..it's the best thing I have bought..saves the knees and back bigtime
bruce, bro. you a beast! I just pulled an old Montgomery ward Roto tiller out of a shed. and this is the problem I'm hearing. thanks.
You are welcome.
already done.... thanks big time.
I was able to fix an old lawn chief tiller that started squealing after watching your video. Thanks
You are welcome.
Thanks again I have a old Lawnmower doing the same thing....Your the Best Bruce....
No problem. Thanks for watching. This is an older video, I hoped it helped
I have the same murray mower with the 3.5 hp Briggs, and this stopped the squealing. Big thanks!!
Thanks for watching
Nice work again you are the the master mate. I know who to call when mine look like its going to kick the bucket.
I ran over cardboard and it stopped the mower, pulled out the cardboard and now it has terrible screeching noise.. lowered the throttle and the screeching stopped, but soon as it's up a little it screeches soo loud. What do you think?
I have a Briggs 3.5 classic 1994 20 inch mower and it has been very good to me and the head gasket blew and I replaced it. Still have it to this day runs amazing:-)
They are indestructible.
Bruce Pender where do you find all these mowers?
I have lived in the same location for 30 years and have been fixing stuff forever. I look on local on line sire like Craig's list but different.
I have an old tuff cut 22" that I did this on twice in 2014..... but I didnt think to do the drill bit or screwdriver inside of the thing.. Going to be pulling this apart and doing it again before I even attempt to start it for spring even though I just put it back together in december! also someone told me to use AutoMatic Transfluid?? It supposedly lasts longer?? I wonder if I could use lithium grease?
good luck!!
Bruce, Thank you for another fantastic video. At 1 minute, you mentioned the fuel blend that you use for priming, is 10% 2-stroke oil and 90% gasoline. Why such a high ratio of oil to fuel ? Is there any particular reason ? Would it be easier to start with less oil than 10% (like 2% or 2.5%, or no oil at all ?) Thank you, yours, Tom.
I use a higher amount of oil to lubricate motors that have been sitting and get the top end lubed and also easier to pull.
A while back I removed an old B&S 206cc 5hp motor from a walk behind mower, I tested it out and it's making the same screeching noise, hope to sort it out tomorrow using your method. Also, What is purpose of the single thin insulated black wire that is under the pull start cowling near the carb and protrudes out near the fuel tank? Thankyou for the vid! :)
The wire puts a ground on the coil when you let go of the brake handle turning off the motor. If that is the one I am thinking of.
Thanks Bruce!
Good on you! This is what I love about RUclips and the effort people make to share ideas and solutions.
Thank you for your effort and clear explanation. Problem solved :-) Cheers from DownUnder Aus.
Good for you for fixing it.
Excellent clip, exactly what I needed to know and so well presented.
Thanks so much Dave
Your awesome pops.
Any pointers on rethreading a spark plugs port? I did it on a Troy bilt that was given to me but the new thread insert doesn't stay in?
Did you tap in in with the expander tool?
I did. I put a bunch of grease on it to catch the aluminum shavings then I used a high temp RTV on the thread insert once I threaded it on the spark plug. I then installed the spark plug but I didn't put a lot of tension on it and then waited 24 hours before using it. I removed the spark plug and the insert came out with it.
got a problem Sears lawn mower snapback real bad when you pull the cord pulled off the fly wheel to check the key way no problem them. it dam near takes your fingers off when you start it any thing more i can check thanks sam.
A leaky valve may make it backfire. Is it an older flathead or Lhead engine. ?
bruce ive a question. my lawn mower starts easy, but when its warmed up, and i shut it off for a few seconds, then try to start it again, it starts hard, sometime i have to prime it. i think its a carburetor problem, what do you think? db
Are most spark plugs in push mowers gapped to thirty thousandths?
Yes Honda is 28 So similar
I had the same problem with mine. I was really frightened for the sound, but then easy to fix.
Just FYI, Briggs has a special tool for removing that kind of starter clutch. It's a socket, not expensive, I can't say where to get it though. Bruce got those oddball oil filter pliers to work, no damage inflicted, so very much OK. One other thing, though, trapping the aluminum fins on the flywheel is risky business. Trapping the blade with a 2x4, or using the special tool, which I have, but can't say where I got it, does the job without fracturing fins. Not that Bruce would fracture anything, he knows what he's doing. But hey, I got this wild hair for special tools.
I have one now. (given to me by a generous subscriber) However i did it this way for many years. This is a pretty old video
I had the same problem at my ancient Yard-Man, but can't figure out how to disasamble the unit. So i soaked it from the top with a thin oil. It worked for now.
What ever works.
you just saved me buying a new clutch.
Good for you. You will fix it.
Who the hell thumbs down on this great man?
This video was made in 2014 as well. 6 years ago. Thanks Ivan
@@BrucesShop seriously like who would say or think your video is not good? I actually have learned many things from watching your videos. It's what it comes down to. Educational videos. Those who thumb down maybe don't understand what 1+1 equals to.
Thank you so much now I can fix my lawn mower mine did the same thing as yours .... No wants to make money any more to help some one out around me ...
Very welcome
I have a similar B&S design but for some reason one of the balls hops over to another crevace with another, have ANY idea WHY & HOW to fix it????
I don't know without seeing it. Is the top on upside down. Just guessing. Ball to small??
Thanks very much Bruce. Great explanation 👍
Thanks for the great comment.
Why do you put two stroke oil in to the primer gas? Is it to lubricate the fuel system because these old motors have probably been sitting for a while?
+Jacob Burrows Yes it helps to lubricate the cylinder and valves on something that has been sitting around for sometimes yeas.
Thanks for this tip. I have the same exact problem. I will try the solution. I hope it will take care of the problem.
Good luck with it!!
It worked!!! Thanks again!
Bruce what the exact gap number for the valves on a briggs Stratton 4.5 hp lawnmower
Here you are
outdoorpowerinfo.com/engine_specs/briggs_valve_gaps.asp
my favorite thing was the "chipmunk" sounds!!!! I laughed out loud!!! gotta love FFWD
TTTTTTThanks Jay
Nice one Bruce, one little question, what do you use the old CRT tv up there in the corner for, is that for watching movies while ya work? lol
It is hooked up to one of the PVR's in the house. Now that i do so much You Tube stuff i don't watch it that much. Good eye!!!
I bought the same primer can, it worked great coaching my Craftsman 6.75 HP Tecumseh Engine to start. That prime bulb is not my favorite on a Tecumseh, sometime 2 or 3 pumps and other time 10 pumps to start, but only 3 pumps from the red primer can gets every time,.. ZA-ROOM! and it stays run-ning. (Forest Gump!) HA!
Thanks for sharing
Shouldn’t you have put ball bearing grease instead of engine oil?
There is a felt pad at the end of the clutch for oil.
I noticed your antler mounts in the background as well. Did you harvest those deer from Alberta? My wife is from Iowa and they have the biggest whitetails i have ever seen in my life. I am from PA and we have the same size deer that are on your wall. Iowa deer make our deer look like babies.
Yes The truck is a 98. 170 kms on it. It is my baby. Here is a link on the truck
My Chev Trucks 16th Birthday!!!
There are a lot of bigger deer around here but none on my wall !!!! They are bigger because they are smarter than me.
Bruce, do you have a video on a 3.5 hp Briggs & Stratton recoil starter there are 4 tabs that hold the plastic recoil rope normally you use 2 tabs of the 4 with 2 spares 3 of the 4 tabs are broke unfortunately a new recoil starter is no longer available since this engine is a 1988 model # 92902 3271-01 how would you repair this weld some tabs on to replace the broken ones?
I just had this problem and replaced the entire shroud. I thought of welding on new tabs but I had a recoil in the shed. Not the best because the date is on the shroud
I have a 2012 lawn mower that makes a loud clunking sound when you run it. Why?
That is tough as I am not there to see it. Briggs and Stratton? Honda? Kohler?
Now we know what video George watched to prompt the clutch tool gift.
+AlwaysFreeAmerica I could be I have busted my knuckles on most of them!!!
Omg that old dude is such a babe ❤️
Oh my what do i say.
thank you for posting
You're welcome
thanks very much for getting back to me, great video!! db
no problem!!
ty great vid as always. keep em coming.
Nice job done, Bruce!
I wish you could do an overhaul of my old antique BS 5hp rototiller. That "thing" and me are not too good friends.. :)
similar clutch????
Bruce Pender
Good job done!
The problem with my tiller is that it only starts, when it wants to. If the engine has been going for a while, it stops suddenly. I then have let it rest for some hours before it starts again. (If it has a good day).
The start clutch looks quite similar to the one you had on that mower. I fixed the problem with the clutch some weeks ago, and it works fine. However, the rest of the engine needs a check.
Haha, had to pull down the volume here while you sanded that thing. The sound went through my bones here. Lol.. Like scratching your nails on a galvanized iron sheet.
Best wishes,
Halvor.
It's too bad that the people who sell the equipment don't know how to service or give help! thanks
Well that is why the get rid of it. LOL Thanks for joining in.
@@BrucesShop thanks for the reply! Someone else told me it may be the "sear spring?" I don't know what that looks like or if I could even buy that part at a hardware store.
Also, do you know anything about a garage door that won't even try to open? thanks
Bruce, where did you get that lift ?
This video explains it all
ruclips.net/video/yv7FtFWRHaU/видео.html
Thanks I found it a little while ago, I need one to save my back. Does it raise the mower high enough to wheel it onto your truck ?
Yes. It comes to within an inch of the tailgate. My truck is a standard height 4X4 silverado (older)
Thanks! I need a lift for my mower.
ha wow that is just what it needed to be fix. it is a 4 stroke Briggs' with a horizontal shaft and run's but makes that noisy sound. I have called her or it big birtha and lives up to its name it got me zapped 5 times by trying to do a compression test lol good times thanks.
Good luck!!!
thanks would grease be better??
5 stars no more squeel ;) :{)
Great.. This is one of my older videos.
thanks so much my shop teacher thought it was the barings
You can get a small workbench ultrasonic acid cleaner for like $100. If you are going to clean a lot of small engine parts it is one hell of a lot easier, faster and more effective than sitting and sticking sandpaper in a hole with a drill bit.
I have one now. This is an older video. Fun stuff.
thank u mr.bruce p
Mine did this the second it started up its 3.75 any help?
Ever fix your problem?
where did you get the lawnmower lift? db
Here is the info on the lift.
I added a 2foot by 3 foot 3/4 inch plywood to the top with a lip on the edge.
It was gift from my wife bought it at a Canadian Store Called Princess Auto. Here is the link to the lift
www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Moving-Equipment/660-lb-Scissor-Lift-Cart/8017549.p
Here is a Harbor Freight similar product for the U.S.
www.harborfreight.com/1000-lbs-capacity-hydraulic-table-cart-69148.html
it is a bit more money but this may help your search.
great vid i have soo many parts of these engines blocks pistons heads carbs tanks exhausts ahah
kierankay100 There are a lot around
i know but im in the uk not many people have petrol mowers
That engine is so small. 3hp?
I think so. 3hp is enough to cut most grass. I used a 2hp when I was a kid back in the Jurassic period.
Ok i was just wondering because my friend has one.
I love these happy endings heheheheheh..... Mower success!!!!!
Thanks a lot!!
Good onya ya mate .... great job 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks
There's a little hole in the top of the clutch that is there to add 30w oil to. Inside is a felt piece that "stores" the lubricant. No need to tear these clutches apart. You should have known.
Easy now. You are right but most.of those hose clutches get so corroded you can't even pull them apart. On those one the felt acts like a plug and wont let the oil in. Most of the shafts under the plug have to be sanded with 400 grit just so they rotate. I have done hundreds.
@@BrucesShop #399671 In the past 43 years I got the part number memorized. Using the red nozzle you can squirt carb cleaner in the hole first to loosen the gum. If that fails, then take it apart. When I did this for a living, I'd just replace it with a new one and make an easy 10 or so bucks. Toss the old one or keep the balls for a wrist rocket. I just see so many videos here from people claiming to be mechanics it drives me batty! donyboy73 is a good example. Guys taking blower housings completely apart to replace a rope and/or recoil spring. Brigg's are designed to be able to replace ropes and springs w/o taking it apart. I can even do it w/o removing the blower housing. Easy money. Takes 5 minutes and charge customer 1/2 hour labor.
Thank you so much that real helped.
That is so cool.
Mine screeches when started, then immediately the engine shuts off. (Belt?)
I may be the carb.
@@BrucesShop I got it to stay running. As for the screech, I just removed cover & sprayed wd40 onto ratchet piece
Pulling to start mower but rope keeps locking up to prevent from starting
This video may help. But first take out the spark plug to see if the cylinder is full of fluid.
ruclips.net/video/Vfa6W7rqOqg/видео.html
This is only a temporary fix and the starter clutch will inevitably lock up on the shaft again no matter how much you clean or lubricate it! It's a bad design as the heat from the engine makes the crankshaft expand and leads to it locking up on the shaft when the motor gets hot and this is especially bad on a horizontally mounted Briggs motor as heat travels upwards and the end of the crankshaft that slots into the starter clutch pawl is the highest point on those motors :( An aftermarket company really needs to make a conversion kit for these motors or alternatively you could reem out the hole in the starter pawl at the risk of it becoming to loose on the shaft :(
Well my tiller was done 15 tears ago and is still going. Finely sanding with 600 paper helps a lot and using a fine grade oil on the felt pad helps. You are correct though they all aren't successful.
I used to be a small motor mechanic and these starter clutches would play up all the time and destroy starter pulleys and starter recoil springs all the time by catching and trying to wind the starter pulley backwards :( Great when they're working but a pain in the arse for users and mechanics when they're not, especially commercial lawnmower guys! There's a reason in the industry why their known as "Briggs and Strife" LOL :P
They should have a serviceable spot without removing the shroud.
Great vid as usual
Thanks. You video was great and and the sqealing has stopped. Yay, wife happy.
Good for you.
the older 3.5 Hp Briggs and Stratton engines -the 2000s are much better its around the 2000s up to today the 3.5 before it was replaced with that motor and the professional series are all failure prone as they are using PLASTIC camshafts and timing gears. i used to have a 3.5 hp in a 1979 Snapper cast deck as it had a vertical pull starter as it had a toothed flywheel for that as i recalled i replaced the fuel tank with a pulsaprime carburetor with the primer bulb and converted the ignition the the later magnatron ignition and cut the wires to the points case. as all Briggs and Stratton engines prior to 1982 had a points ignition under the flywheel under an alunimum cover when they came out with the Magnatron electronic ignition they did away with the cover and points alltogether they call it an ignition armature the early magnatron had a seperate module mounted on the armature the ones on the later one are a composite type. as now Briggs and Stratton cheapened down in engine building in favor of PLASTIC parts if you have to repower your mower find an older Briggs engine rebuild it it should outlast the life of the mower as now Briggs and Stratton for their utility horizontal shaft engines are now imported from China the blocks are a clone of a Honda engine. as the 3.5 hp most parts are interchangable on them it its a later block it will have the mounts for the fuel tank and the vertical pull starter. blocks made since the early 1980s have provisions for that compliance blade brake system if its a nonmower application like a pressure washer or a snowthrower it will have a cast iron flywheel. if u find a junkyard in your area and score a good 3.5 Briggs and Stratton get it if u do get a new mower mount this 3.5 on it the new briggs engines are junk.
grease better or not ????
Put a little fine oil on the foam pad inside the clutch and also on the shaft.
Sounds like the ball starter
should i use high temperature bearing grease instead of engine oil? Well maybe some wd40 will do for now :-(
I wouldn't use WD40 as it is a Water Displacement product. WD Use good quality oil as in 30W or even a 10/30.
thank you for posting. when did the world stop identifying bolts, nuts etc by the thread size [1/4-20] & start identifying by the size wrench/socket you need [7/16"] ? my g'father must be turning over.
It just happens. I should be more accurate.
@@BrucesShop wasn't intending to complain or criticize, just observing. the practice seems prevalent in similar 'how to' diy videos.
Thanks for that information you have been able to help us out and it works from kerikeri new Zealand we are not allowed to have guns otherwise I would have shot it
LOL Thanks
5:20 the electric sander.
Fast motion saves time eh!!!!
yes it does.
its the starting clutch, pull the top off, oil the ball bearings, and good as new.
Screeching is the recoil ratchet... needs oil.
Did you watch the video? 8:36 in the video
@@BrucesShop Of course I did... Been fixing those since the 70's. I just replied to the title for anyone who needs an answer asap.. As you didn't put the fix in the description...
Thumbs up if you also call engines motors.
Maybe it is a local thing. But I have heard and said "The motor blew in that car"
@@BrucesShop , good video though man, no disrespect, my generator making a squill and i hope this is the same fix. About the same build of engine but its 8 hp. So thanks for the video. :)
Btw love that you get to the point and show the work, you didnt explain the history of the gasoline engine for 15 min like some of the other vids on here. Im working on fixing my generator now ill post back if it exploded or not.
Starter clutch is rusty, needs to be loosened up...
Yes at 4:30 I talk about that.
5 ......thanks
OK I am older 5....... What is that like high five or something help this old dude.
you said ,
there were 5 ball bearings in the starter clutch , exactly what I needed to know . thanks
Good
Ok, totally mechanically challenged mother of 5 here. Trying to tackle this. Lawnmower was doing the same. Did exactly what you did but the large round spinny thingy is what will not turn not the thing in the center of it that u took out and lubed up. Now what? Excuse my ignorant female terminology. Lol.
Fly wheel! Thats what its called. My 10yr old son told me. Ya so the FLY WHEEL is hard to turn even with the BEARING off. What now?
Remember to squeeze the brake handle first. There is a little tiny bake to stop the motor on the flywheel when you let it go. That may be it. Take the spark plug out and put some oil in the hole. Then see if it turns.
Bruce Pender thats exactly what i was forgetting to do! Lol! i figured it out tho, eventually. Duh. No more squeak now! Yay me! Ha! Who needs to wait till their husband comes home from work to fix the mower. Not this lady! Lol! Thank you! Hubs is going to be majorly impressed. 😁
The hardest part was putting everything back together! Geez. I hope all the screws are in their right places. As long as it doesnt fall apart the next time hubs uses it, its all good. 😂
I am so proud of you. Just be safe when running these things. It is like a propeller under a hood.
RIP headphone users. XD
I am working on my audio. This video is 2 years old.
No, the screeching noise.
Muffler bearings !
Lol, what about the piston return springs? 😂
I HAVE A SOLUTION.......I BUY HONDA'S.
+Roger Lund Me too but I fix what is out there.
I'll bet you've seen what happens when this gets worse. Not pretty.
The shaft get ground away.
If I could move my hands that fast I'd never leave the house.
Well this videos was made 8 years ago when I was fast lol. thanks for the fun.