Tuff Torq K46 Fluid Change & Drain Plug Install - Cub Cadet LTX 1045
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2024
- These transmissions have a bad reputation, but simply adding a couple drain plugs and crush washers into new holes you can easily drill yourself in the bosses provided at the factory will allow you to easily change the fluid yourself and greatly extend the life of the transmission and your machine.
LINKS
seal kit (x1) www.partstree....
drain plug kit (x2) www.amazon.com...
See more posts about this tractor on our website: www.SolunaGara...
We post more stuff about our various endeavors all over the place!
/ solunagarage
/ solunagarage
/ solunagarage
Get more information about us and what we’re doing at www.SolunaGara...
I was thinking of doing this at 50hrs but I struggle getting 10hrs a season on my tractor. I've been mowing my neighbor's front yard just to try and get to the first 5hr mark to change the oil. You don't realize how small your property is until you get a 50" deck. The pain is real lol.
I hear ya! I enjoy mowing other people's property because we don't have much to mow here.
The drain plugs install is fine but your not addressing the real issue. The pan cover really needs removal anyway to clean the screen filter, clean the magnets, and wash out the case with brake clean. Drain plugs are good but the fan/pulley needs to also be removed to access the cap on top for refilling and oil level check. So take 1.5 - 2 hours to remove the trans and remove the pan cover for proper cleaning and draining. Don't skimp on oil. Either use Tuff Torq or Castrol Syntec 5w50.
Drive them gently. My 2016 JD X350 lasted 570hours then the diff gears failed. Disappointing JD. Now I'll remove, clean and refill every other season or 100 hours. Thank you for your presentation. C.D. in rural New Hampshire 👍
Thanks for the comment, but I do mention the filter and case cleaning/magnet cleaning issues in this video although it is titled "drain plug install"
Glad to hear of another person who takes pride in ownership and maintaining equipment rather than letting it decay and be crushed.
I have a 2014 Craftsman (Husqvarna) lawn tractor that I only use to cut my grass and occasionally pull my rubbermaid cart when doing yard work. It has about 400 hrs on it and I change the engine oil and filter each year before the start of cutting season. I'm physically challenged and haven't been able to change the transmission fluid, would be wise of me to find a friend that can change it for me.
What fluid are you using? I’ve typically used 5-50 synthetic
For customers on a budget I use 15w-40. For those who want the best I go with 5w-50.
Is there something you put on the gasket of that filter? My tractor is a 2018 XT1 46LT, I'm guessing same trans? I'm fixing to hit 300hrs, I've always kept it blown off good after mowing, oil, fuel, air, spark plugs, just rebuilt the deck last summer, spindles, pulleys and belt, fairly mechanically inclined, but trying to get the confidence to do this trans service. Pretty sure I could, have all the tools, jack, stands and such. But it's working perfect and I don't want to screw it up, lol. I even have a gallon jug of the Cub Cadet trans fluid, and new vent/filler plug, sitting in my tool shed, that I bought last summer, working up the nerve, lol.
I understand your hesitation. It looks quite intimidating. The filter does not get any sealant. The hardest part of the job is in the preparation of the case halves to accept the new sealant. It is just a tedious job, but not difficult.
You could alternatively just drain the fluid out through the fill cap and not bother separating the case or installing a case drain. Changing the fluid at 300 hours is a great service to do either way if you plan on keeping the machine.
@@SolunaGarage Thankyou sir. I believe that's what I'll do 👍
do i need to change inside filter or just clean with brake cleaner? Do you spray inisde down with brake cleaner or just live it alone?
I cleaned the filters and reassembled, cleaned mating surfaces and drained fluid out as much as possible. I didn't spray brake cleaner into every orifice because I didn't want it to cause any issues if it moved debris around to places it should not have been able to get to when the case was assembled. I used some common sense here, there were some areas where either clearly was safe to clean, while the sensitive areas like the valve block and pistons I left alone.