A great film and a superb ascent. It's strange how often many of these iconic climbs finally get done when something doesn't feel right and the holds are a bit damp.
Its because 90% of the time I feel like climbers cant send because their head aint right. When everything is propper shit you dont have that pressure of failing because you are kind of giving it a "whatever Ill try".
A Brute, futuristic route that 30 years later has not aged a bit, staying impressive and inspirational. Excellent ascent and video as well. Thanks for sharing.
great film! So ironic when you spend all this time perfecting a sequence, having perfect partial sends along the way and then the actual send ends up being one of the worst goes on a proj… happened to me this summer as well, such a weird feeling 😅
I started climbing right when Gullich put up Action Directe. He was always my hero. He was a real visionary. Got to visit Frankenjura twelve years ago.
Inspiring stuff, Buster. Always enjoy following your achievements. Ben and...the other guy...from Uni of Hertfordshire will be chuffed if they see this. Keep it up pal!!
Amazing!! wow. One thing as a newbe I don't like of Frankenjura, is that at the top there's seem to be always a big and scary run out where if you fall, you fall a lot. Sometimes I have not even found the top anchor :(
Amazing film! Congratulations! One question: how was Wolfgang's original beta? Everyone's said that his beta was kinda more straight forward and that no one has ever repeated the route that way ,and I've always wondered about which were the differences. Never have I seen a video explaining the way Wolfgang did it. Cheers mate!
Wolfgang did a superhard cross move at the top (where the route leads to the left) which was also done by Alexander Adler, but the craziest thing is that he matched the two finger pocket (where you jump to at the start) with the help of two very small holds. When he had the two finger pocket with his left hand he went superdirect and very far upwards. Certainly not the easist way :) Cheers, Hannes
@@hanneshuch8965 After I wrote the question I went directly to Adler's video and noticed exactly that, the cross move on the last part where no one crosses, but it's the matching on the pocket after the jump what I'm reading/listening for the first time (nevertheless there are pictures actually of that right? In "a life in the vertical")! So instead of going right with the left on the lower cross, he went directly straight with his right? wow, gangsta! Danke Hannes!
@@ochoymedio78 There are pictures of this on my harddrive :) But they are owned by Thomas Ballenberger so I cannot show them online. Actually they should be used in the documentary about a swedish climber sending Action Directe .... :) If you come to the Frankenjura one day let's meet for a coffee and I bring my computer and show you. Cheers!
By 1991 we already had slip-lasted and downturned shoes. I know shoes have gone crazy in the 21st century but this is still Wolfgang Gullich and not John Gill.
Yes, they got it wrong, he did it in 2005 and he's also listed as having climbed Hubble. There was controversy about him at some point for supposedly having claimed ascents without evidence to get sponsorships. [Edit: the following is wrong:] But there's video of his ascent of Action Directe (in a short film called "Obsession") so no question about that one.
The training was not so strong: 2 finger campusing on a 3cm edge only once up, bouldering on 30° wall, with finger pockets, ...he could hardly do one move in the route and suddenly climbed the whole route....a lot of light, the camera far away....hard to see what he really holds
I just think it's terrible that everywhere now, even in the most beautiful natural places in the world, you always see these hooks in the rocks. Just because a few idiotic fun-loving adrenaline junkies want to prove themselves, who apparently know nothing better in their lives than to climb around pointlessly somewhere.
I just think it's terrible that everywhere now, even in the most unobjectionable cyber spaces in the world, you also see these ill-informed and negative comments. Just because a few idiotic contrarian junkies want to prove that their way of looking at the world is the only way, who apparently know nothing better in their lives than to criticize pointlessly everywhere. Sound about right, Achim?
@@princenabby1 No, that is not quite true! What these climbers do you can see. What I do no one knows. (I do not sit for hours in front of the computer and criticize, because it is my profession or just for fun. Unlike the climbers who do it either professionally or for fun!
great to see young climbers caring about historical routes and actually climbing them ♥
A great film and a superb ascent. It's strange how often many of these iconic climbs finally get done when something doesn't feel right and the holds are a bit damp.
(whispering ---- "Saïd" ---- here)
Its because 90% of the time I feel like climbers cant send because their head aint right. When everything is propper shit you dont have that pressure of failing because you are kind of giving it a "whatever Ill try".
A Brute, futuristic route that 30 years later has not aged a bit, staying impressive and inspirational. Excellent ascent and video as well. Thanks for sharing.
This route was so ahead of its time.
Classy words from Buster. Lovely illustrative animations from Marsha, must have been very cool to film!
great film! So ironic when you spend all this time perfecting a sequence, having perfect partial sends along the way and then the actual send ends up being one of the worst goes on a proj… happened to me this summer as well, such a weird feeling 😅
Since the moment you accidentally took my climbing shoes in Cuenca I knew you'd send it 😁Jokes aside, great send sir! Keep it up!
I started climbing right when Gullich put up Action Directe. He was always my hero. He was a real visionary. Got to visit Frankenjura twelve years ago.
Buster is a great guy! Well deserved ascent!
Best angle I’ve seen of the route! Such a good video!
Beautifully filmed and edited video!
I remember reading the articles in my Climbing mags after WG sent it. Still as valid today as then! Beautiful send! Well done sir.
Inspiring stuff, Buster. Always enjoy following your achievements. Ben and...the other guy...from Uni of Hertfordshire will be chuffed if they see this. Keep it up pal!!
Brilliant little film.Loved the edit/production and Busters smiles!
That was a great film, amazing stuff Marsha!
Superb film and fantastic send 👏🏻👏🏻
Great video and climb. Cool to see the final ascent from a different angle. Congrats
wonderfully articulate as well!
Amazing!! wow. One thing as a newbe I don't like of Frankenjura, is that at the top there's seem to be always a big and scary run out where if you fall, you fall a lot. Sometimes I have not even found the top anchor :(
Such a humble guy.
amazing!!! well done Buster and Marsha
incredible film and ascend!
What a composed reaction to the send! Nice
Brilliant. Looking forward to Sajd's video.
Best film about AD. Nice evasion at the end, a true politician ;)
Congrats! What a dream to climb this route
SUCH a sick video.
5:55 Got me when I saw how many shoes he brought 😂
Superb video. Buster is a machine, one finger pullups? I had no idea that was even possible lol.
Lovely film
Congratulations!
Actual climbing starts at 8:16
Un niveau phénoménale, tb perfomance
xcellent movie!!!! sympatic guy:)
great film!
Amazing film! Congratulations! One question: how was Wolfgang's original beta? Everyone's said that his beta was kinda more straight forward and that no one has ever repeated the route that way ,and I've always wondered about which were the differences.
Never have I seen a video explaining the way Wolfgang did it.
Cheers mate!
Wolfgang did a superhard cross move at the top (where the route leads to the left) which was also done by Alexander Adler, but the craziest thing is that he matched the two finger pocket (where you jump to at the start) with the help of two very small holds. When he had the two finger pocket with his left hand he went superdirect and very far upwards. Certainly not the easist way :) Cheers, Hannes
@@hanneshuch8965 After I wrote the question I went directly to Adler's video and noticed exactly that, the cross move on the last part where no one crosses, but it's the matching on the pocket after the jump what I'm reading/listening for the first time (nevertheless there are pictures actually of that right? In "a life in the vertical")! So instead of going right with the left on the lower cross, he went directly straight with his right? wow, gangsta! Danke Hannes!
@@ochoymedio78 There are pictures of this on my harddrive :) But they are owned by Thomas Ballenberger so I cannot show them online. Actually they should be used in the documentary about a swedish climber sending Action Directe .... :) If you come to the Frankenjura one day let's meet for a coffee and I bring my computer and show you. Cheers!
Image with what shoes Wolfgang climbed it back in the days.
Boreal lasers. To be fair I don't think Wolfgang used his feet much! 😂
By 1991 we already had slip-lasted and downturned shoes. I know shoes have gone crazy in the 21st century but this is still Wolfgang Gullich and not John Gill.
Really enjoyed this 🤘🏼
Good work man!!
My dream line🙌🙌
Wolfgang forever. Great!
Great work and a cool film 🙂 was that Chris Sharma in the background?
Uk 3??wtf?? :D ;)
Way to fight it out despite it not being a perfect ascent. It would be so easy to take. That route is properly hard.
great film marsha!
Love the music at the beginning. Could you give me the name?
the real action directe was the friends we made along the way
Strong work buster!
Nice
Awesome :)
I thought Ondra also did both routes!!!
Well done! And no distracting rap background music. From Australia.
sick
Imagine fucking up a sequence on a 9a and still sending. Thats when you know the training paid off.
"Buster becomes the first Brit to climb the route" And Richard Simpson?
Yes, they got it wrong, he did it in 2005 and he's also listed as having climbed Hubble. There was controversy about him at some point for supposedly having claimed ascents without evidence to get sponsorships. [Edit: the following is wrong:] But there's video of his ascent of Action Directe (in a short film called "Obsession") so no question about that one.
No, there's no send footage on that film.
@@jamesjackson2894 Yeah, just googled it and appears you're right.
Proper hardcore route.
afaik only UK climbers have settled on Hubble being 9a…
Well the only non-Brit to have climbed it is Alex Megos... Ondra seemed to think it was 9a when he tried it.
Alexander Adler , from Dresden Saxony , is the 2nd Germans, right after Wolfgang.
That was a long time ago.
@@MsFleshgear thats a fake ascents, he confirmsd tht about it.
🙏👏👏👏
💯
99
"for many years" ;)
The training was not so strong: 2 finger campusing on a 3cm edge only once up, bouldering on 30° wall, with finger pockets, ...he could hardly do one move in the route and suddenly climbed the whole route....a lot of light, the camera far away....hard to see what he really holds
💫💟❤️💓❣️😘💞✨😇
Amazing climb, but that belay technique...
A great battle. Looked like a normal climber!
I just think it's terrible that everywhere now, even in the most beautiful natural places in the world, you always see these hooks in the rocks. Just because a few idiotic fun-loving adrenaline junkies want to prove themselves, who apparently know nothing better in their lives than to climb around pointlessly somewhere.
I just think it's terrible that everywhere now, even in the most unobjectionable cyber spaces in the world, you also see these ill-informed and negative comments. Just because a few idiotic contrarian junkies want to prove that their way of looking at the world is the only way, who apparently know nothing better in their lives than to criticize pointlessly everywhere. Sound about right, Achim?
@@princenabby1 No, that is not quite true!
What these climbers do you can see. What I do no one knows. (I do not sit for hours in front of the computer and criticize, because it is my profession or just for fun. Unlike the climbers who do it either professionally or for fun!