I have watched all episodes up to now, (all 30) keep going, you're almost there, the finish line is now in sight. Great work, I can't wait to see the first drive on the highway..... Thanks for such a well documented resto job.
the deep reduction valve is definitely for a 15 speed... probably just capped now.... unless it goes to a passenger side ejection seat... :-)... I would check with the shop that did your rear diff., if it's the same as a diff. the slop in the bearing at the yoke can be removed by adjusting shims behind the bearing race.... not that big a job but it might be easier to wait till you have it running and run it in to them to do... we used to have to get the input shaft on the rear diff's adjusted quite regularly on our logging trucks... not so much the highway trucks for some reason.... I don't think I'd be welding spacers onto a spring though.... the spring will crack where it's welded and I think the bracket that's worn is aluminum isn't it??... a lot of work but I think I'd take that mount off and have it built back up with weld and machined back to spec..... easy to say when yur typing and sitting in a warm chair ... coming along nice... keep swingin'
Even though you found more work that needs to be done, you'll get the truck done and know that it will hold together. Thanks for teaching me a little more about trucks with every video! Rock on!
I appreciate your videos and look forward to watching them. You definitely are a patient man and have a great eye for detail, seeing all of the items that need to be fixed and/or replaced. Keep up the great work!
Hi Tip from Sweden, always use a butyl when sealing stuff on any mobile body (car, caravan etc.) then you can replace it, it stays flexible and do not cause corrosion like some silicones do.
I am not surprised the truck holds air well as you have fitted the right connectors, fitted new pipe and done it well. You paid attention to the detail and got the right result. And yes rebuild that turbo. It is not a big job and well worth the peace of mind. Just a thought on that front wiring loom - As it is a closed loom you don't need all the different coloured wires. Use the right gauge of one colour and use cable markers to identify each cable at the junction box and where they fit the headlights. Unless you have the coloured cables of course .... One step at a time as you say and you have already climbed a mountain so far Sir ...
Thanks for posting. I learn so much from your channel. You keep saying I have never done this or that before and yet you seem so knowledgeable about so many things. I wish I knew someone like you who had the time and interest to do a similar project with me. It is definitely on my bucket list of things to do now that I am retired.
Maarten Bos ha I’m learning as I go and didn’t know much when I started ... you’d be surprised how much you pick up as you work through it ... I’m glad I tackled this project and I’m so pleased others are enjoying the project as well. Hopefully I inspire others to find old rigs and save them from rotting into the ground.
So satisfying to watch true dedication to a project. It is already looking fantastic and with such a thorough restoration it will be a real treat to drive. Keep up the amazing work!
Good progress little by little! My neighbor just got a new 2020 389 it looks a lot like yours. Timeless style.x 15 with 18 speed.He said he wished he could have bought it with a new cat engine but they are no longer available. Sad. His is mocha.Peterbuilt has such a classic good look. Love them all.
Unless you wanna upgrade the turbo for more hurspwer's, rebuild that bad biscuit. I'm sure there is a kit. Most turbos I've seen can be rebuilt really easy. You'll get better mileage and power anyway after a rebuild. Thanks for sharing all this man!
I have watched every one of these videos since the start and look forward to each one.It's to bad you don't have some help with some of the harder parts of this project! The old Pete will be something to behold when you get it done!! Semper Fi !!!
Love it i been watching every video of this Beauty when i found ur channel and the video of the truck and im proudly see she in good hands and coming back to life again
A 3406 turbo is buildable ,be carful with the studs behind it,replace them with new ones . The 1241 is popular in the States, you just need a new tail shaft bearing,race, seal and probably a yoke seal bushing. If it has line in it probably will need one.
Is it not worth having a professional rebuild it so they can balance the turbine wheels? IMHO the rebuild process is simple (if fiddly) but if the turbines aren't re-balanced then it'll just shred itself. The cost of its failure outweighs the price of sending it out.
@@TheMattyPoppins Very very few shops rebalance the wheels. Its a fairly easy job and unless you are swapping either the turbine or compressor wheel a balance is fairly unneeded.
@@JustinD.53 For the amount of time its been sitting, the age of the beast and the possible costs of failures then I'd send it out for reworking. Plus once its done its done. TBH my experience comes from car turbos so that may be reflected in my choice.
G’day the air lines holding air big achievement and you can see that the way your restoring her it will work out, your biggest problem is the weather that would be hard to work on the truck in those conditions, anyway really enjoy watching what your doing thanks John
This'll be the last video I see before I leave, big sad in that regard. First time I've heard you listening to Merle in a while, constantly becoming more and more impressed with not only your skill when it comes to this truck, but with your excellent taste in music. Keep on keepin' on my friend. Every issue you find will just be another story to tell, and you know as well as I do, there is no better feeling than getting an old vehicle back on the road again.
Have you changed the oil in the engine too? Can't remember if you did. There are some turbo's that are sealed units and cant be rebuild. Look in the section between the exhaust turbine and the compressor of the turbo and see if there are clamps holding it together. Try and find a part number too so you can look up the exploded view for when you rebuild it. It's a good idea to check for play int he turbine shaft and any chunks taken out of the fins when you pull the intake and exhaust off. check for in and out play too. That yolk might be fine. The eaton 18 speeds have a knock to them too. You can ask someone at stahl to look up the spec for you and check with an indicator. I very rarely see a output yolk with no up and down play unless it's an auto. For that hanger. I wouldn't bother messing with welding shit on. You got a forklift so its an easy job. Unbolt the spring pin on both sides. chain up and lift the rear with the fork lift. unbolt and remove the hanger. If you can get a press tool then id suggest changing those pins too, the bushings look cracked and worn. If the spring doesnt hang down past the hanger then dump the air bags and put a bottle jack under the air bag bottom mount bolt to tilt the axle forward. Then when you go to install, lift the air bags, dump the frame, and if the axle walked back then release the brakes and walk the axle forward and if needed, use ready rod to suck it back in.
Bushings gone in leaf spring hangers,,,, I’d bet the bolt has wore thru the hanger as well with the spring hitting the hanger like that... it’s not to bad replacing them,,, if the bolt hasn’t wore into the hanger you should be able to change out the bushings and be fine. But if the bolt is wore into the hanger,,, either get machine shop to mill it and make new over size bushings or replace the hanger... that’s a regular Pete air suspension so you may be able to find the hangers used. It will be awesome when she is done! Thanks for posting this series! 👍🏼
You should be able to tear that turbo apart and check the seals. If the seals are shot you should be able to get new seals depending on the brand of the turbo. If it’s a Cat turbo then contact your local Cat dealer if it’s a off brand then you’d probably be better off getting a new or slightly used turbo. Hopefully this will help keep on keeping on
The oil seal in the turbo is actually a metal ring like a piston ring. You buy a kit to rebuild the turbo. Its not really too challenging. I wouldnt be overly concerned about a turbo runaway, they are fairly rare, and the piston ring usually isnt gonna have issues from sitting like a gasket or seal. You could pull the intake and look at the wheel and see if it looks wet with oil at all. Either way I would leave it until its ready to drive. Keep up the good progress, shes coming a long way.
Been here sense the start of the restoration awesome you’ve made a lot of progress for sure keep up the good work she will be on the road soon awesome 👍
I'm sure you already got the turbo question licked but it never hurt to do a rebuilt especially when your unsure when it was last rebuilt. Some turbo's have out lasted the engine they're bolted to and some have blown with in a few thousand km. Turbo's are generally easy to rebuild (at lest I find them easy) if the components are balanced individually but it the impeller wheel and turbine wheel/shaft are balanced as a unit it becomes very difficult you would need to re-balance it perfectly or risk the impeller wheel blowing apart. If you can find someone who specif in the brand of turbo you have it'd be the bast bet to get a quality rebuild job done.
While replacing those turbo seals it's a great time to clean out your charge air cooler as well, somtimes oil will pool in the bottom and can also cause runaways.
Looking great, if you plan to weld a block on the leaf spring I would suggest welding parallel to the spring and not across it. The leaf springs are much higher carbon content then mild steel so when you weld them it creates what's called martensite and will significantly weaken the spring its self. I know that steel is a pain to drill holes in but if you could drill and bolt a plate on the end of the spring that hangs past the mount then you wouldn't have to worry about weakening the spring or welds breaking when the spring flexes. Just an idea for ya, really enjoying this series so far man. Also I don't know if you have a 5th wheel yet for your truck but we usually have a good selection of used ones at work that my boss is always looking to get rid of, priced cheap as well. You can get in touch with us at Alberta Box Centre in Wetaskiwin.
G'day ... I was driving a S Liner with a 400 Cummins and bring back a load of Reflex copying papper from the mill on a B/Double and about 34 tons of freight on board .. I was on my back and I got 3/4s the way back when the turbo let go and start to run off the engine oil . I tried to shut her down and tried too stall by putting her in gear but it didn't matter what done it wouldn't "STOP" ..... Smoke was bellowing out of the exhaust and it was like something out of a James Bond movie , like a smoke screen you couldn't see anything behind the truck . So I end pull over in the emergency lane and let it go till she runs out of oil or she blows up ... While standing on the side of the I could the country fire fighter on their way over , they where coming from all directions and couldn't wait to pull out the fire hoses and the supposed fire out .. I told the fire fight that there's no fire just smoke and oil coming out of the truck and that they were making moor of a mess by spreading the oil every where ... The reply I got from the Volunteer fire fight was that they don't get happening there in the small town and it was the only chance they can run the hoses, I just laughed .... But they sure made a mess and the company that I drove for would of payed for the clean up .... So I know what it's like to have a turbo let go .... Your best bet is to get it serviced and at least you know it's going to be o.k ... She's looking good there and keep up the good and keep on trucking ... Cheer from down under ...
Pull the charge air pipe off and check the ID of the pipe for oil. If there isn’t any oil residue in pipe run it. Check the yoke on the trans and make sure it’s tight and not causing the play on the yoke.
In a runaway condition throw a rag into the turbo air intake or somehow otherwise block the intake (not with hands) to stall the motor. Or you can put the truck in hi gear and dump the clutch. Both assuming the truck is not moving and the emergency brakes are on.
Hey mate just found your channel & subscribed and just watched all your videos on your old 359, love these old Pete's. Look forward to following your progress and see you rolling her down the road. I have a old ish 94 Canadian built western star I'm tidying up a little, nothing to the extent your doing though. Keep up the good work, cheers from New Zealand
Awesome. If you haven't done it already! Replace the Leaf spring Hanger. I would never feel comfortable just by putting a Band aid on it. But Great progress.
Very well done again and as always! As you say: Step by step, little by little. It will become a fantastic truck, that's for sure. It's great that you do realize every incorrect detail and repair it afterwards. Hope the turbo seal is manageable. You did a great job on the air system (and differential/transmission system of course). Best of luck and health, also best regards.
On the rear suspension you can check inside the hanger pocket for remainder pieces of a plastic bushing or wear pad..... Some of those had a wear pad to allow the spring to slip in the pocket. You can even double check at like fgi industries in a automann suspension catalog to confirm.
Theres not too much to turbos....ive rebuilt quite a few. A guy of your abilities will have NO problems. Pay attention to how everything is when it comes out is the biggest thing. Truck is looking great!
Short answer to the turbo, is there oil in the cross pipe to the intake manifold. If there is non the turbo is not leaking. Some have suggested servicing the turbo and I agree, it has not turned for 15 years and will probably start leaking soon after it has run and gotten hot.
It just needs a shim behind the bearing. And probably a new seal. The bolts around are for the seal housing. The turbo is easy to rebuild with a seal kit from Borg Warner. Check the bearings by spinning the turbines, if they feel gritty or don't spin super easy have a shop rebuild it. If they spin really nice, just new seals will do it. The deep reduction switch goes to the transmission. There would have been a valve on the back of the old 15 speed. No need to worry about that now
Odds and Ends will wear you down. Looking good, though. If you add a metal piece above the spring, make sure it it high-carbon steel for strength and wear. On the wiring harness, if you decide to repair the ones you have. Take pics on the truck, make you a lay-out board to clip them on, that lets you work the whole run in one spot as it lays flat. Definitely have the correct gauge wire and if possible the same color. Good solder, heat shrink, mount clips and harness loom cover should let you repair or to make new, one section at a time without to much confusion. A piece of plywood or peg board will let you lay it out and hold it to work on. Lots of pictures and patience.
Just remove intake and exaust pipe from your turbo and lift up and down with both intake and exaust impeller to see how she sloppy.try up and down and side by side and if she is not leaking she good for another couple of miles.these old 3406 are bulletproof
Pull the outlet pipe off turbo and check for oil. You’ve had the inlet pipe off so you’ve had the chance to check for shaft play. If it’s tight and dry. Check it again after the first 500 miles. I’ve been enjoying your videos but personally I would have stuck 100% to just mechanicals and had it up the road a long way before making it pretty. And before I made it pretty I’d buy front brakes.
I know you can get turbo's rebuilt, it's normally the turbine shaft bearings that go but if you did need a new turbine, you may be able to have a newer design one installed, giving better performance. Ask about ceramic coatings as well, it would help with heat.
I'm from San Diego area .... does the snow and cold ever go away there? LOL I love these video's of your journey putting your 359 back on the road. I had a 6x4 359 with a 335 cum. when I started driving in 1979 loved that truck. Best of luck. My brother had a run away with a failed turbo seal real scary situation.. As for the turbo it's not worth taking a short cut with a classic 359 pete like you have. It would be money will spent to have a pro at least inspect. I had a front end damage from a TC and had to rewire the front end on our 359. I soldered everything put silicone sealant over the solder and seal it with heat shrink and then place all the wiring inside a good quality hose that was sealed with silicone at all openings and ends. My brother still has the truck today 35 years later with that repair.
Instead of welding the spacer in the hangers. Get a piece of flat bar the required thickness bent into a U shape or weld up a U out of 3 bits , pull the hanger off and make the upright arms of the U long enough to fit through the gap for the springs. Once its refitted the upright arms will stop it sliding out That way when it wears again you can replace it easily.
I know it takes a long time to do a restore on the Pete but it will be a sweet ride in the end so don't give up do a little at the time and I will be there till the end keep up the good videos I will be so excited when you can crank it can't wait
With your head light wiring I've used 5 and 7 core trailer wire as it is already in a loom. It will remain neat and all your wires are run in one go. Just a thought you might like.
Yup but brake controller gets a little tricky as they’re not designed to run with air brakes. I’m pretty sure there’s a kit that uses the intensity of the signal to the brake lights that I’ll have to use
the turbo when it comes off make sure that the pump fan is spinning freely with no wobble if sweet put all back with new seals do not put the old one back in the bearing is taped and go into the racer in the bearing is shoot the racer will have to come out to have fun with that
Yes you can take the turbo apart in 2 bits. It's so you can roatate the inlet outlet pips to match your manifolds And yes you can get the seals re done in the turbo :)
Totally agree with other postings....take your turbo to shop for rebuild, those turbos can be very persuasive in their own way ! On my 94 Pete air tanks I only run bleeder valves to drain water from occasionally, the other ports are capped off. The only pop-off valve is on the AD-9 air dryer and will exhaust when desired air pressure is reached, I have mine set at 130psi. Also, what make/model air suspension valve on tractor are you using? I like the look of it and would appreciate any info you have, just replaced mine but is really cheap looking compared to the aluminum one you installed ! Thanks for sharing your build !😊
They make 2 different size park chambers. One has a longer stroke than the other. They are supposed to be matched, or the same size on the same axle, so I don't believe you would need to change all 4. If you have the longer stroke chambers, switching to the shorter ones might solve your problem without getting to too much Rube Goldberg type fixing. Also a lot of tractors only come with one set of maxis. There's a chance the rears were added later.
Partially due to this channel I finally got the 86 f250 I bought last year drivable. If your working in this shit weather and conditions on this heavy stuff I can get a tarp and finish my truck. First time on the road in a decade.
CutTimeBrony right on ... I have to give credit to Roadkill ... watching those guys rescue old junk and drive it home inspired me to take this project on ... glad your enjoying the videos and your F250 is on the road!
From what I remember, yes you can pull the turbo off and do an inspection, I’m pretty sure the seals can be replaced, although I’m sure there pressed on....
Nice work man 👍💪👌 man!! Nice work. When I get enough scratch up myself I'm looking to do the same! Keep them videos comming!! Doing a great job have been watching every one!
You can send it back to the turbo manufacturer and they will rebuild it.. or you can and this is my suggestion is send it to precision Turbos and have a ball bearing center section put in it...which will in turn last longer and (which is probably not a concern of yours) the performance aspect is way better, fast spool less heat..and you don't have to run a separate coolant line to it
You can rebuilt turbos. The shop that I use takes the center and replaces the seals and check the shaft. Also you can change the compressor wheel to a Bullitt wheel that would make more cfm of air.
Some versions of that suspension has wear plates that filled that gap. they were usually secured with 2 bolts, i did not see enough to say for sure, however it would be fair to say there is something not right. The normal travel in that suspension is going to hit the edge with that pot, was there any marks on the old pots? I suggest using the fork lift and a chain to be sure there is clearance for that pot. you are doing well good luck from winnipeg.
Try just tightening the yoke first. Some transmissions have two opposed tapered bearings so the yoke has to be tightened from time to time. The deal will also leak if it's loose.
If you run the truck then take the intake side off you should be able to tell if the seals are gone by if there is oil on the intake side or if there is play in the turbo
Always a good day when I catch an update on the 359. In regards to the turbo oil seal You could check easily enough the next time you get it running. let her run for a few minutes and then pull the pipe off and see if the inside of the high pressure side pipe is oily. If not then you're probably ok to run it as is.. If it were me.. because i'm just paranoid about shit... I'd have it re-sealed anyway.
Shane Singleton ya I’m kind of paranoid about it now ... will probably pull it off and have it rebuilt for piece of mind. Was thinking I could put a guillotine shutoff in but the cost is probably the same as rebuilding the turbo ... glad your enjoying the content
I had problems with the crome flat straps on my air tanks always breaking , the ones from peterbilt have studs welded to the strap and that's where they break, I finally found some at a crome shop that's better made like a strap on a fuel tank
You can probably look at the discharge side of the turbo and see if there's oil in it to know if the seal is good. I doubt on a truck that old they ventilated the crankcase into the intake anywhere.
Take it to a shop and have them go through your turbo. If they don't have to replace any major components then it shouldn't be too expensive to have them put new bearing seals in it. If you were closer to where I'm at in the states, I know "The Guys" to take it to, but I think you are near Edmonton so that puts you about 1500 miles from me. No welding on leaf springs, try to get a new spring hanger, or a used one. Trying to weld a piece into that spring hanger may not work either, I think they are cast. Deep reduction went to the tranny.. 15 speed had a deep reduction in low range only, so it was a 10 speed that had a deep reduction , so they called it a 15. You couldn't drive it as a 15, because you had to stop to take it out of deep reduction. It was only good for getting out of soft field type places. It makes more sense to me now that you spoke of them converting it back to a twin stick from a 15 speed. I kept wondering, and thinking that I was pretty sure they didn't offer a twin stick back in 79. The DOT back than was of a mind that two sticks were too much of a distraction for the drivers, in some cases having to reach through the steering wheel to shift the main while your right arm was shifting the back box. That's the thinking that led the industry to where it is with air shifting . But those old twin transmission setups were stronger. I'm just scratching my head as to why someone would go back to a twin stick. I'm not disrespecting your truck or project, the guy that converted the truck must have had all those parts laying around. To go to the trouble of mounting the back box, changing out all the drive shafts, installing the shift linkage, replacing the differentials in both rear ends, well I'm baffled why someone would want to go backwards like that. I thought you mentioned that the differential gears are 456, so that means that the back box is around 40% overdriven in 4th gear, thereabouts. Most transmissions now are around 29% overdriven in the high hole, that's why you don't see trucks with gears much lower than 411. Anyway, it is what it is, your doing a great job on one of the best trucks ever built. 359's have a kind of magic about them, and this truck deserves the love it is getting. That sloppy back box yolk may not be that big of an issue, maybe just drive it for a little bit, and if you notice vibration then address it. That play may be ok. It's just finding someone who knows about those units and their allowable amount of play may be a bigger problem.
Keep up the good work. Those of us who live thru your look forward to the day this hammers down the road.
I have watched all episodes up to now, (all 30) keep going, you're almost there, the finish line is now in sight. Great work, I can't wait to see the first drive on the highway..... Thanks for such a well documented resto job.
the deep reduction valve is definitely for a 15 speed... probably just capped now.... unless it goes to a passenger side ejection seat... :-)... I would check with the shop that did your rear diff., if it's the same as a diff. the slop in the bearing at the yoke can be removed by adjusting shims behind the bearing race.... not that big a job but it might be easier to wait till you have it running and run it in to them to do... we used to have to get the input shaft on the rear diff's adjusted quite regularly on our logging trucks... not so much the highway trucks for some reason.... I don't think I'd be welding spacers onto a spring though.... the spring will crack where it's welded and I think the bracket that's worn is aluminum isn't it??... a lot of work but I think I'd take that mount off and have it built back up with weld and machined back to spec..... easy to say when yur typing and sitting in a warm chair ... coming along nice... keep swingin'
Your truck series has given me motivation to get working on the 95 mustang I have even with school in full effect. Thanks for posting!
Love the waylon in background love the truck
i admire your even keeled approach, and your can-do attitude...admirable traits for sure...
Even though you found more work that needs to be done, you'll get the truck done and know that it will hold together. Thanks for teaching me a little more about trucks with every video! Rock on!
I appreciate your videos and look forward to watching them. You definitely are a patient man and have a great eye for detail, seeing all of the items that need to be fixed and/or replaced. Keep up the great work!
Hi Tip from Sweden, always use a butyl when sealing stuff on any mobile body (car, caravan etc.) then you can replace it, it stays flexible and do not cause corrosion like some silicones do.
I am not surprised the truck holds air well as you have fitted the right connectors, fitted new pipe and done it well. You paid attention to the detail and got the right result.
And yes rebuild that turbo. It is not a big job and well worth the peace of mind.
Just a thought on that front wiring loom - As it is a closed loom you don't need all the different coloured wires. Use the right gauge of one colour and use cable markers to identify each cable at the junction box and where they fit the headlights. Unless you have the coloured cables of course ....
One step at a time as you say and you have already climbed a mountain so far Sir ...
Thanks for posting. I learn so much from your channel. You keep saying I have never done this or that before and yet you seem so knowledgeable about so many things. I wish I knew someone like you who had the time and interest to do a similar project with me. It is definitely on my bucket list of things to do now that I am retired.
Maarten Bos ha I’m learning as I go and didn’t know much when I started ... you’d be surprised how much you pick up as you work through it ... I’m glad I tackled this project and I’m so pleased others are enjoying the project as well. Hopefully I inspire others to find old rigs and save them from rotting into the ground.
So satisfying to watch true dedication to a project. It is already looking fantastic and with such a thorough restoration it will be a real treat to drive. Keep up the amazing work!
another Saturday well spent loving this project thank you
Wow. What a cool series of videos this is! Probably the coolest truck ever made. Thanks so much for these videos.
Enjoying the videos and the ride along.
Good progress little by little! My neighbor just got a new 2020 389 it looks a lot like yours. Timeless style.x 15 with 18 speed.He said he wished he could have bought it with a new cat engine but they are no longer available. Sad. His is mocha.Peterbuilt has such a classic good look. Love them all.
Unless you wanna upgrade the turbo for more hurspwer's, rebuild that bad biscuit. I'm sure there is a kit. Most turbos I've seen can be rebuilt really easy. You'll get better mileage and power anyway after a rebuild. Thanks for sharing all this man!
Крутой трак))) обожаю американские грузовики, всегда мечтал работать на таком)) удачи в реставрации👍
I have watched every one of these videos since the start and look forward to each one.It's to bad you don't have some help with some of the harder parts of this project! The old Pete will be something to behold when you get it done!! Semper Fi !!!
Defiantly make some merch
Ideas
Little by little
Must be doing something right
Love it i been watching every video of this Beauty when i found ur channel and the video of the truck and im proudly see she in good hands and coming back to life again
I've been watching all winter. I've got a crane mounted on a "99 Pete 378, I wish I had your skills!
A 3406 turbo is buildable ,be carful with the studs behind it,replace them with new ones . The 1241 is popular in the States, you just need a new tail shaft bearing,race, seal and probably a yoke seal bushing. If it has line in it probably will need one.
Is it not worth having a professional rebuild it so they can balance the turbine wheels? IMHO the rebuild process is simple (if fiddly) but if the turbines aren't re-balanced then it'll just shred itself. The cost of its failure outweighs the price of sending it out.
@@TheMattyPoppins Very very few shops rebalance the wheels. Its a fairly easy job and unless you are swapping either the turbine or compressor wheel a balance is fairly unneeded.
@@JustinD.53 For the amount of time its been sitting, the age of the beast and the possible costs of failures then I'd send it out for reworking. Plus once its done its done. TBH my experience comes from car turbos so that may be reflected in my choice.
G’day the air lines holding air big achievement and you can see that the way your restoring her it will work out, your biggest problem is the weather that would be hard to work on the truck in those conditions, anyway really enjoy watching what your doing thanks John
This'll be the last video I see before I leave, big sad in that regard. First time I've heard you listening to Merle in a while, constantly becoming more and more impressed with not only your skill when it comes to this truck, but with your excellent taste in music. Keep on keepin' on my friend. Every issue you find will just be another story to tell, and you know as well as I do, there is no better feeling than getting an old vehicle back on the road again.
Man you're awesome. I can hardly wait to see it finished. Thanks for the update and the video.
Have you changed the oil in the engine too? Can't remember if you did. There are some turbo's that are sealed units and cant be rebuild. Look in the section between the exhaust turbine and the compressor of the turbo and see if there are clamps holding it together. Try and find a part number too so you can look up the exploded view for when you rebuild it. It's a good idea to check for play int he turbine shaft and any chunks taken out of the fins when you pull the intake and exhaust off. check for in and out play too.
That yolk might be fine. The eaton 18 speeds have a knock to them too. You can ask someone at stahl to look up the spec for you and check with an indicator. I very rarely see a output yolk with no up and down play unless it's an auto.
For that hanger. I wouldn't bother messing with welding shit on. You got a forklift so its an easy job. Unbolt the spring pin on both sides. chain up and lift the rear with the fork lift. unbolt and remove the hanger. If you can get a press tool then id suggest changing those pins too, the bushings look cracked and worn. If the spring doesnt hang down past the hanger then dump the air bags and put a bottle jack under the air bag bottom mount bolt to tilt the axle forward. Then when you go to install, lift the air bags, dump the frame, and if the axle walked back then release the brakes and walk the axle forward and if needed, use ready rod to suck it back in.
Bushings gone in leaf spring hangers,,,, I’d bet the bolt has wore thru the hanger as well with the spring hitting the hanger like that... it’s not to bad replacing them,,, if the bolt hasn’t wore into the hanger you should be able to change out the bushings and be fine. But if the bolt is wore into the hanger,,, either get machine shop to mill it and make new over size bushings or replace the hanger... that’s a regular Pete air suspension so you may be able to find the hangers used. It will be awesome when she is done! Thanks for posting this series! 👍🏼
You should be able to tear that turbo apart and check the seals. If the seals are shot you should be able to get new seals depending on the brand of the turbo. If it’s a Cat turbo then contact your local Cat dealer if it’s a off brand then you’d probably be better off getting a new or slightly used turbo. Hopefully this will help keep on keeping on
Can’t wait to see trucking vids!
Hello from the UK 🇬🇧
The oil seal in the turbo is actually a metal ring like a piston ring. You buy a kit to rebuild the turbo. Its not really too challenging.
I wouldnt be overly concerned about a turbo runaway, they are fairly rare, and the piston ring usually isnt gonna have issues from sitting like a gasket or seal.
You could pull the intake and look at the wheel and see if it looks wet with oil at all. Either way I would leave it until its ready to drive.
Keep up the good progress, shes coming a long way.
Makes me want to start fixing up the old dump truck!
Beautiful rig man. I subscribed can't wait to see her on the road glad you're bringing her back to life👍
I love these videos I always get excited when a new one pops up.
Been here sense the start of the restoration awesome you’ve made a lot of progress for sure keep up the good work she will be on the road soon awesome 👍
That old sleeper would make a great hunting blind, multiple uses I guess. Cheers !
the truck is coming in handy and greetings from mexico Monterrey Nuevo León
I'm sure you already got the turbo question licked but it never hurt to do a rebuilt especially when your unsure when it was last rebuilt. Some turbo's have out lasted the engine they're bolted to and some have blown with in a few thousand km. Turbo's are generally easy to rebuild (at lest I find them easy) if the components are balanced individually but it the impeller wheel and turbine wheel/shaft are balanced as a unit it becomes very difficult you would need to re-balance it perfectly or risk the impeller wheel blowing apart. If you can find someone who specif in the brand of turbo you have it'd be the bast bet to get a quality rebuild job done.
While replacing those turbo seals it's a great time to clean out your charge air cooler as well, somtimes oil will pool in the bottom and can also cause runaways.
Good point, I'll remember that one
Looking great, if you plan to weld a block on the leaf spring I would suggest welding parallel to the spring and not across it. The leaf springs are much higher carbon content then mild steel so when you weld them it creates what's called martensite and will significantly weaken the spring its self. I know that steel is a pain to drill holes in but if you could drill and bolt a plate on the end of the spring that hangs past the mount then you wouldn't have to worry about weakening the spring or welds breaking when the spring flexes. Just an idea for ya, really enjoying this series so far man. Also I don't know if you have a 5th wheel yet for your truck but we usually have a good selection of used ones at work that my boss is always looking to get rid of, priced cheap as well. You can get in touch with us at Alberta Box Centre in Wetaskiwin.
Ha ha I've watched all the videos and I just noticed you already have a fifth wheel.
G'day ... I was driving a S Liner with a 400 Cummins and bring back a load of Reflex copying papper from the mill on a B/Double and about 34 tons of freight on board .. I was on my back and I got 3/4s the way back when the turbo let go and start to run off the engine oil . I tried to shut her down and tried too stall by putting her in gear but it didn't matter what done it wouldn't "STOP" ..... Smoke was bellowing out of the exhaust and it was like something out of a James Bond movie , like a smoke screen you couldn't see anything behind the truck . So I end pull over in the emergency lane and let it go till she runs out of oil or she blows up ... While standing on the side of the I could the country fire fighter on their way over , they where coming from all directions and couldn't wait to pull out the fire hoses and the supposed fire out .. I told the fire fight that there's no fire just smoke and oil coming out of the truck and that they were making moor of a mess by spreading the oil every where ... The reply I got from the Volunteer fire fight was that they don't get happening there in the small town and it was the only chance they can run the hoses, I just laughed .... But they sure made a mess and the company that I drove for would of payed for the clean up .... So I know what it's like to have a turbo let go .... Your best bet is to get it serviced and at least you know it's going to be o.k ... She's looking good there and keep up the good and keep on trucking ... Cheer from down under ...
Ola, ja louco pra ver o Peterbilt andando, parabens. Brasil ...
Pull the charge air pipe off and check the ID of the pipe for oil. If there isn’t any oil residue in pipe run it. Check the yoke on the trans and make sure it’s tight and not causing the play on the yoke.
In a runaway condition throw a rag into the turbo air intake or somehow otherwise block the intake (not with hands) to stall the motor. Or you can put the truck in hi gear and dump the clutch. Both assuming the truck is not moving and the emergency brakes are on.
Dirks help the man out. He’s good people and has a following.
Hey mate just found your channel & subscribed and just watched all your videos on your old 359, love these old Pete's. Look forward to following your progress and see you rolling her down the road. I have a old ish 94 Canadian built western star I'm tidying up a little, nothing to the extent your doing though. Keep up the good work, cheers from New Zealand
Awesome. If you haven't done it already! Replace the Leaf spring Hanger. I would never feel comfortable just by putting a Band aid on it. But Great progress.
Very well done again and as always! As you say: Step by step, little by little. It will become a fantastic truck, that's for sure.
It's great that you do realize every incorrect detail and repair it afterwards. Hope the turbo seal is manageable. You did a great job on the air system (and differential/transmission system of course).
Best of luck and health, also
best regards.
Still watching and enjoyin in rural G. B.
I would pull the boots inspected the turbo for any oil for now and keep a eye on it.
On the rear suspension you can check inside the hanger pocket for remainder pieces of a plastic bushing or wear pad..... Some of those had a wear pad to allow the spring to slip in the pocket. You can even double check at like fgi industries in a automann suspension catalog to confirm.
Theres not too much to turbos....ive rebuilt quite a few. A guy of your abilities will have NO problems. Pay attention to how everything is when it comes out is the biggest thing. Truck is looking great!
Short answer to the turbo, is there oil in the cross pipe to the intake manifold. If there is non the turbo is not leaking. Some have suggested servicing the turbo and I agree, it has not turned for 15 years and will probably start leaking soon after it has run and gotten hot.
It just needs a shim behind the bearing. And probably a new seal. The bolts around are for the seal housing.
The turbo is easy to rebuild with a seal kit from Borg Warner. Check the bearings by spinning the turbines, if they feel gritty or don't spin super easy have a shop rebuild it. If they spin really nice, just new seals will do it.
The deep reduction switch goes to the transmission. There would have been a valve on the back of the old 15 speed. No need to worry about that now
I've started saying little by little when doing jobs on the trucks at work!
Odds and Ends will wear you down. Looking good, though. If you add a metal piece above the spring, make sure it it high-carbon steel for strength and wear. On the wiring harness, if you decide to repair the ones you have. Take pics on the truck, make you a lay-out board to clip them on, that lets you work the whole run in one spot as it lays flat. Definitely have the correct gauge wire and if possible the same color. Good solder, heat shrink, mount clips and harness loom cover should let you repair or to make new, one section at a time without to much confusion. A piece of plywood or peg board will let you lay it out and hold it to work on. Lots of pictures and patience.
Just remove intake and exaust pipe from your turbo and lift up and down with both intake and exaust impeller to see how she sloppy.try up and down and side by side and if she is not leaking she good for another couple of miles.these old 3406 are bulletproof
Never knew some big rigs don’t have front brakes until I started watching your series.
Ryan Lavoie ya it’s crazy ... neither did I but now every 70’s rig i look at doesn’t have em
Some trucks even had a switch on the dash to turn the front brakes on and off for slick conditions.
Pull the outlet pipe off turbo and check for oil. You’ve had the inlet pipe off so you’ve had the chance to check for shaft play.
If it’s tight and dry. Check it again after the first 500 miles.
I’ve been enjoying your videos but personally I would have stuck 100% to just mechanicals and had it up the road a long way before making it pretty. And before I made it pretty I’d buy front brakes.
Yes u can do a turbo rebuild just look up the kit and turbo rebuilds are very easy!!!
I know you can get turbo's rebuilt, it's normally the turbine shaft bearings that go but if you did need a new turbine, you may be able to have a newer design one installed, giving better performance. Ask about ceramic coatings as well, it would help with heat.
Nice project, keep up the good work.
I'm from San Diego area .... does the snow and cold ever go away there? LOL I love these video's of your journey putting your 359 back on the road. I had a 6x4 359 with a 335 cum. when I started driving in 1979 loved that truck. Best of luck. My brother had a run away with a failed turbo seal real scary situation.. As for the turbo it's not worth taking a short cut with a classic 359 pete like you have. It would be money will spent to have a pro at least inspect. I had a front end damage from a TC and had to rewire the front end on our 359. I soldered everything put silicone sealant over the solder and seal it with heat shrink and then place all the wiring inside a good quality hose that was sealed with silicone at all openings and ends. My brother still has the truck today 35 years later with that repair.
Keep up the good work man been watching since day one little by little
Work ethic, these kids these days need to learn from this man.
Instead of welding the spacer in the hangers. Get a piece of flat bar the required thickness bent into a U shape or weld up a U out of 3 bits , pull the hanger off and make the upright arms of the U long enough to fit through the gap for the springs. Once its refitted the upright arms will stop it sliding out That way when it wears again you can replace it easily.
Fabulous mate thanks for sharing it with all of us. You’re doing a pukka job. 👍👍
I know it takes a long time to do a restore on the Pete but it will be a sweet ride in the end so don't give up do a little at the time and I will be there till the end keep up the good videos I will be so excited when you can crank it can't wait
Devagar o velho Pete vai voltando a vida!!!!! Retira esse turbo daí e manda para um reparo de qualidade e monta de novo meu amigo!!!!
Show.
With your head light wiring I've used 5 and 7 core trailer wire as it is already in a loom. It will remain neat and all your wires are run in one go. Just a thought you might like.
11:27 some good ol waylon Jennings one of my favorite artists
Don't forget:
Adding a receptacle on the rear bumper and installing a brake controller for hauling the RV.
Yup but brake controller gets a little tricky as they’re not designed to run with air brakes. I’m pretty sure there’s a kit that uses the intensity of the signal to the brake lights that I’ll have to use
the turbo when it comes off make sure that the pump fan is spinning freely with no wobble if sweet put all back with new seals do not put the old one back in the bearing is taped and go into the racer in the bearing is shoot the racer will have to come out to have fun with that
Peterbilt is the best. Try looking for round headlights for the truck. Stacks would be great.
Yes you can take the turbo apart in 2 bits. It's so you can roatate the inlet outlet pips to match your manifolds
And yes you can get the seals re done in the turbo :)
Totally agree with other postings....take your turbo to shop for rebuild, those turbos can be very persuasive in their own way ! On my 94 Pete air tanks I only run bleeder valves to drain water from occasionally, the other ports are capped off. The only pop-off valve is on the AD-9 air dryer and will exhaust when desired air pressure is reached, I have mine set at 130psi. Also, what make/model air suspension valve on tractor are you using? I like the look of it and would appreciate any info you have, just replaced mine but is really cheap looking compared to the aluminum one you installed ! Thanks for sharing your build !😊
They make 2 different size park chambers. One has a longer stroke than the other. They are supposed to be matched, or the same size on the same axle, so I don't believe you would need to change all 4. If you have the longer stroke chambers, switching to the shorter ones might solve your problem without getting to too much Rube Goldberg type fixing. Also a lot of tractors only come with one set of maxis. There's a chance the rears were added later.
Good tunes in the background
Partially due to this channel I finally got the 86 f250 I bought last year drivable. If your working in this shit weather and conditions on this heavy stuff I can get a tarp and finish my truck. First time on the road in a decade.
CutTimeBrony right on ... I have to give credit to Roadkill ... watching those guys rescue old junk and drive it home inspired me to take this project on ... glad your enjoying the videos and your F250 is on the road!
Those rubber bushings below the rear hanger are super dry rotted.. you should take a look at those as well.. 👀
No air leaks with new lines/fittings and pieces should be the case. 👍🏼
From what I remember, yes you can pull the turbo off and do an inspection, I’m pretty sure the seals can be replaced, although I’m sure there pressed on....
Nice work man 👍💪👌 man!! Nice work. When I get enough scratch up myself I'm looking to do the same! Keep them videos comming!! Doing a great job have been watching every one!
Great work man
You can send it back to the turbo manufacturer and they will rebuild it.. or you can and this is my suggestion is send it to precision Turbos and have a ball bearing center section put in it...which will in turn last longer and (which is probably not a concern of yours) the performance aspect is way better, fast spool less heat..and you don't have to run a separate coolant line to it
Its look in good keep up the good work
Nice job 👍
You can rebuilt turbos. The shop that I use takes the center and replaces the seals and check the shaft. Also you can change the compressor wheel to a Bullitt wheel that would make more cfm of air.
Some versions of that suspension has wear plates that filled that gap. they were usually secured with 2 bolts, i did not see enough to say for sure, however it would be fair to say there is something not right. The normal travel in that suspension is going to hit the edge with that pot, was there any marks on the old pots? I suggest using the fork lift and a chain to be sure there is clearance for that pot. you are doing well good luck from winnipeg.
Came here so fast it’s only available in 360
Try just tightening the yoke first. Some transmissions have two opposed tapered bearings so the yoke has to be tightened from time to time. The deal will also leak if it's loose.
If you run the truck then take the intake side off you should be able to tell if the seals are gone by if there is oil on the intake side or if there is play in the turbo
I get alot of knowledge from your channel but at the same time get alot of worry about my own project truck.
1982 W900A Restoration no worries ... everything can be fixed ... just takes time or money or both 😂
Great videos
Always a good day when I catch an update on the 359. In regards to the turbo oil seal You could check easily enough the next time you get it running. let her run for a few minutes and then pull the pipe off and see if the inside of the high pressure side pipe is oily. If not then you're probably ok to run it as is.. If it were me.. because i'm just paranoid about shit... I'd have it re-sealed anyway.
Shane Singleton ya I’m kind of paranoid about it now ... will probably pull it off and have it rebuilt for piece of mind. Was thinking I could put a guillotine shutoff in but the cost is probably the same as rebuilding the turbo ... glad your enjoying the content
@@TwinStix I am indeed, sir.
🇧🇷 não entendo nada do que você fala, mas sei que esse caminhão depois da restauração vai ficar show 👍🇧🇷
Good job on the air lines. I'm also curious about the power divider and the deep reduction. What do they do?
I had problems with the crome flat straps on my air tanks always breaking , the ones from peterbilt have studs welded to the strap and that's where they break, I finally found some at a crome shop that's better made like a strap on a fuel tank
Oilfieldtrucker ya I noticed they were pretty Mickey Mouse when I installed them ... I’ll keep an eye on them and find something better if they break
You can probably look at the discharge side of the turbo and see if there's oil in it to know if the seal is good. I doubt on a truck that old they ventilated the crankcase into the intake anywhere.
Take it to a shop and have them go through your turbo.
If they don't have to replace any major components then it shouldn't be too expensive to have them put new bearing seals in it.
If you were closer to where I'm at in the states, I know "The Guys" to take it to, but I think you are near Edmonton so that puts you about 1500 miles from me.
No welding on leaf springs, try to get a new spring hanger, or a used one. Trying to weld a piece into that spring hanger may not work either, I think they are cast.
Deep reduction went to the tranny.. 15 speed had a deep reduction in low range only, so it was a 10 speed that had a deep reduction , so they called it a 15. You couldn't drive it as a 15,
because you had to stop to take it out of deep reduction.
It was only good for getting out of soft field type places.
It makes more sense to me now that you spoke of them converting it back to a twin stick from a 15 speed.
I kept wondering, and thinking that I was pretty sure they didn't offer a twin stick back in 79.
The DOT back than was of a mind that two sticks were too much of a distraction for the drivers, in some cases having to reach through the steering wheel to shift the main while your right arm was shifting the back box. That's the thinking that led the industry to where it is with air shifting . But those old twin transmission setups were stronger.
I'm just scratching my head as to why someone would go back to a twin stick. I'm not disrespecting your truck or project, the guy that converted the truck must have had all those parts laying around.
To go to the trouble of mounting the back box, changing out all the drive shafts, installing the shift linkage, replacing the differentials in both rear ends, well I'm baffled why someone would want to go backwards like that. I thought you mentioned that the differential gears are 456, so that means that the back box is around 40% overdriven in 4th gear, thereabouts.
Most transmissions now are around 29% overdriven in the high hole, that's why you don't see trucks with gears much lower than 411.
Anyway, it is what it is, your doing a great job on one of the best trucks ever built. 359's have a kind of magic about them, and this truck deserves the love it is getting.
That sloppy back box yolk may not be that big of an issue, maybe just drive it for a little bit, and if you notice vibration then address it.
That play may be ok. It's just finding someone who knows about those units and their allowable amount of play may be a bigger problem.