At first I was really disappointed by the result, then I remembered I play Death Guard. It will fit absolutely perfectly! Thank you so much for this tutorial ❤️❤️❤️
Love it. I just got some green stuff world molds I'm going to try to use for this. In another video I watched, they put the sproo goo on some wax paper first to help the acetone evaporate and then they kneaded the goo to remove air bubbles before putting it into the mold.
Your old sprue vids really stuck with me and I always found myself thinking back on how you used it. Also tried to re watch them but couldn’t find you. But after years you finally return!!
Since he's not going to say it all set for him, you can and should absolutely recast every Games Workshop model that you buy before you assemble and painted. In fact you should make sure that your recast version goes together well before you try and use the original version just in case you have to redo the mold so you don't have to buy the same model again twice. To my knowledge, there is nowhere in the world that disallows you from making copies for your own use.
recasting sucks. more expensive to start with, but I'd suggest 3D scanning models. You don't even need a printer, scanners are a lot cheaper, just scan the sprues in for later and pick up a printer when you feel like your backlog of sprue scans is worth getting one for.
Excellent. Remember your early videos - good to have a tinker. As I evolved with rubber moulds I realised plaster of paris is cheap and easier/safer to use than resin, or home made OO-ey goey stuff.
You could use the same concept to people use for concrete where if you vibrate it, it’ll shake all of the extra fluid to the top and let it evaporate from the top instead of the details that you want
I tried experimenting with this method and something I found that might minimize bubbles is to take solid pieces sprue, cover it in sprue glue and press it against the mold and repeat.
@@andersand6576 I press it down as much as I can and then leave it to dry, I try not to disturb it as it dries. My idea is the sprue goo needed something solid to latch on to and will dry faster. I can't say it's foolproof just yet but it's something to consider (I tried cloning skulls for reference)
@willyberrington thats interesting. How large were your skulls? Was thinking about using spruegoo (ooiye gooiye spruiye stuff is just too long to write in here) for some more basic wall, with some i dents, that could be filled with more detailed parts, 3d printed or molded in plaster or recin. For getting the cheap easiness and strength of spruegoo and the others for higher detail.
Love these videos it's what got me into your videos maybe 4 years ago! Can't wait to see more. I actually still use the basing ideas you did from before. Can you try maybe sprue goo tiles for baces?
Certain combinations of 3D printing resins and silicone don't react well together, and prevent the silicone from curing properly. The CrafsMan is well worth checking for this, he's done a _ton_ of experimentation on what works and what doesn't...
please put the jar with melted plastic in a pot and pour boiling water from the kettle, and stir with a spatula while the mix is in hot water (water bath) the texture of the melted plastic will change and it is easier to pour, use a spoon, leave for 24 hours and perfect prints will come out. I recommend trying it
You can absolutely melt it and pressure I next it into a mould, youd just need the rifmght sort of mould. Typically its like the silicone but theb it needs to be heat treated to harden it in order for it to withstand the pressure injection process. Not sure about the filament idea, I think its too stringy when its hot to work for that.
There are people here on yt who makes their own filament, not sure if sprues/polystyrene will work for it. You can definitely chop them up and use them in plastic injection molding, but it requires a machine for it and a metal mold. Try searching plastic injection molding at home to see more.
I remember seeing somewhere that 3d printer resin has to be treated with a certain chemical or it will interfere with silicone mold curing. I am not sure what it is, but a gloss varnish may provide protection for the silicone. I think it was from a dice making RUclips channel.
I remember recently Wren on corridor digital had issues with a mould around a printed copy of his own head, but that was pla. It was on his recent video about replicating the t1000 liquid terminator effect.
I really loved how this looked when you finished it. It reminded me of those super rusted hulks of sunken ironclad ships. Could you make an underwater diorama with everything suspended in transparent resin?
if u use sprugoo that is not so disolved from the acetone it will not have as many holes from the acetone evaporating... putting them into a pressure pot will not suck out the bubbles... and using a vaccumchamber would make them worse... lol pressurepots actually compress air bubbles when you use resin making them smaller and hard to see ...
Im not 100% sure its related but i tend to cut my sprue up tiny before i stick it in acetone and i get fewer bubbles than what im seeing on this video.
Pardon my ignorance but what's the point of molding a 3d print to cast when you can just use the 3d printed part? Or is that just to show what can be done with sprue goo for someone that doesn't have a 3d printer
They took the goo out and allowed to air for 10 minutes or so squishing it about and the acetone evaporated and the goo became less sticky. The moulds came out a lot better
19:20 I was just going to say, the hole-filled, slightly melted-looking terrain matches Death Guard pretty well. Like the whole place has been doused in acid. Or maybe has broken out into weeping sores.
Nooks and Crannies, Cracks and Crevices, folds of flesh, what I used to tell ms kids in the bath for cleaning themselves......almost teens and did it sink in.......No, no it did not.
You should probably just use a different material. It really shouldn't have that many holes and such poor definition. Sprue goo is better as an adhesive IMO--put the extra sprue in a bottle of plastic cement and use it as a bit more of a gap filling polystyrene cement. Use resin or dental plaster for your terrain. Not sure what happened on the white molds, there are some interesting theories in the comments already but if it didn't cure you should have just thrown them away, don't try to use uncured silicone in this way. Good luck.
3d printed stuff has something in it that retards certain silicone from curing. I think there are other you tube videos that can tell you how to sort it out.
It's look good for a corrupted ruin, but not so much for a clean terrain. And this technic need to have already a terrain, so it's clearly not for me (new T'au player who have never get any piece of terrain) 😂
Should try cd cases instead of sprues. I've not tried is myself but from a few videos I've seen it seems to flow a bit better because there's no additional dyes been added to the plastic. Flows well enough that I've seen people load it up into syringes.
Why didn't you just make the molds with your 3D printer instead of the positives you made the object you want to mold those pieces there. that you put in the acrylic boxes into something. like Tinker CAD. Turn them into negative pieces and then cut them out of a box. and then print that box. You would have a rigid, durable mold that you could use. over and over again. And since the polystyrene contracts as it dries, it would pop out pretty easily. Save you from having to buy the latex no
As your comment is a bit difficult to read, I am guessing you are asking why he did not print a mold from the object instead of making a mold from rubber. The simple answer is strength and reuse. The rubber molds can flex and hold the shape to cast almost indefinitely (with exception to resin casting). A 3D printed mold is too rigid for any kind of cast made that has no flex to it. Basically, if you are making a solid object, you don't want a solid mold as you may break the mold or the object to remove it. Sprue-Goo does shrink as you said, so you run the risk of the object breaking as it shrinks and dries if in a rigid mold.
@@RvnKnight Yes. Maybe if you've never used TinkerCAD But I've done this procedure with Sprue goo. and it works usually. as the Sprue goo dries, it pops out of the rigid mold. At least that's been my experience. Mind you, I've only done it two or three times.
@@RvnKnight should be fine if the object is designed with slight bevels to all the edges, and plenty of mould release. Probably at least worth testing. Would even be possible to do two part moulds to help press the sprun goo in better
At first I was really disappointed by the result, then I remembered I play Death Guard. It will fit absolutely perfectly! Thank you so much for this tutorial ❤️❤️❤️
Just my thought. Always a pestilent pleasure to meet another deathguard player (:
@ I tip my tentacle to you, one embracer of his gifts to another
Tripophobic themes really bonkers in this way
Love the holes that the acetone leaves on it, makes it look like decay from acid rain or damage from a toxic environment.
Nurgle has blessed this batch
Exactly what I was thinking. Napalm, acid, warpflamers and the sort.
Love it. I just got some green stuff world molds I'm going to try to use for this. In another video I watched, they put the sproo goo on some wax paper first to help the acetone evaporate and then they kneaded the goo to remove air bubbles before putting it into the mold.
Your old sprue vids really stuck with me and I always found myself thinking back on how you used it. Also tried to re watch them but couldn’t find you. But after years you finally return!!
Your curing problem is due to the type of silicone having a chemical reaction with the resin that keeps it from curing.
Agreed. Tin based silicon works well. Looks like he was using platinum based on the white mould.
Since he's not going to say it all set for him, you can and should absolutely recast every Games Workshop model that you buy before you assemble and painted. In fact you should make sure that your recast version goes together well before you try and use the original version just in case you have to redo the mold so you don't have to buy the same model again twice. To my knowledge, there is nowhere in the world that disallows you from making copies for your own use.
recasting sucks. more expensive to start with, but I'd suggest 3D scanning models. You don't even need a printer, scanners are a lot cheaper, just scan the sprues in for later and pick up a printer when you feel like your backlog of sprue scans is worth getting one for.
Excellent. Remember your early videos - good to have a tinker. As I evolved with rubber moulds I realised plaster of paris is cheap and easier/safer to use than resin, or home made OO-ey goey stuff.
You could use the same concept to people use for concrete where if you vibrate it, it’ll shake all of the extra fluid to the top and let it evaporate from the top instead of the details that you want
The return of ooeey, gooey, spruey stuff! Can't wait to see more sprue goodness :)
Brilliant video! Love the ooey gooey spruey stuff!! Nice to see it back again.
That Burger is was a classic. Chuffed to know sprue gue making a return. Really creative. 👍🏻👍🏻
I love these nibbly nobbly bits videos :)
I tried experimenting with this method and something I found that might minimize bubbles is to take solid pieces sprue, cover it in sprue glue and press it against the mold and repeat.
Thats interesting. Did you just press it down or did you let it dry under pressure?
@@andersand6576 I press it down as much as I can and then leave it to dry, I try not to disturb it as it dries. My idea is the sprue goo needed something solid to latch on to and will dry faster. I can't say it's foolproof just yet but it's something to consider (I tried cloning skulls for reference)
@willyberrington thats interesting. How large were your skulls?
Was thinking about using spruegoo (ooiye gooiye spruiye stuff is just too long to write in here) for some more basic wall, with some i dents, that could be filled with more detailed parts, 3d printed or molded in plaster or recin. For getting the cheap easiness and strength of spruegoo and the others for higher detail.
@@andersand6576 they're similar to GW skulls so around 8mm tall.
@willyberrington thats cool!
Love these videos it's what got me into your videos maybe 4 years ago! Can't wait to see more. I actually still use the basing ideas you did from before. Can you try maybe sprue goo tiles for baces?
Wasn’t sure when you first peeled them out of the silicone mould but after you painted them they looked fantastic for a battle worn environment
Perfect to make Nurgle Terrain! All those pockmarks and such look like decay.
Certain combinations of 3D printing resins and silicone don't react well together, and prevent the silicone from curing properly. The CrafsMan is well worth checking for this, he's done a _ton_ of experimentation on what works and what doesn't...
please put the jar with melted plastic in a pot and pour boiling water from the kettle, and stir with a spatula while the mix is in hot water (water bath) the texture of the melted plastic will change and it is easier to pour, use a spoon, leave for 24 hours and perfect prints will come out. I recommend trying it
do you pour the acetone off before or after boiling? or do you keep it in
@@sergeantquackers7815 first dissolve with acetone and then put the jar in boiling water
turn into jelly and pour easier, cooling time may be longer
They fit perfectly with the death guard you show in the end, i love the idea. Nurgle will be Praised
Wonder if sprues can be ground down then heat extruded into moulds or into filament?
You can absolutely melt it and pressure I next it into a mould, youd just need the rifmght sort of mould.
Typically its like the silicone but theb it needs to be heat treated to harden it in order for it to withstand the pressure injection process.
Not sure about the filament idea, I think its too stringy when its hot to work for that.
There are people here on yt who makes their own filament, not sure if sprues/polystyrene will work for it. You can definitely chop them up and use them in plastic injection molding, but it requires a machine for it and a metal mold. Try searching plastic injection molding at home to see more.
That's a pretty good start for a plague world. Great job.
Amazing!! And yeah, make more videos using sprues! They are amazing!
for death guard or any undead faction this is a perfect look
the fact that plague marines look smooth and clean next to that terrain
I loooove the porous look! Now I have an idea...Thanks for the inspiration man!
Great to see a return to sprues!
Would love to see a vehicle for your deathguard in this style. Maybe even of your own design and stats (:
I remember (fondly) your sprue-built 'Ork Battlewagon' - I would like to see a similar project, perhaps a 'Kill-Rig'?
I remember seeing somewhere that 3d printer resin has to be treated with a certain chemical or it will interfere with silicone mold curing. I am not sure what it is, but a gloss varnish may provide protection for the silicone. I think it was from a dice making RUclips channel.
I remember recently Wren on corridor digital had issues with a mould around a printed copy of his own head, but that was pla. It was on his recent video about replicating the t1000 liquid terminator effect.
This looks like it would work great for some nurgle terrain
Oooo! The Goo is back for Turkeys time! Enjoy ALL the holidays.
Fits a Plasma melted aesthetic just fine from my view
Looks great for nurgle and orks
I really loved how this looked when you finished it. It reminded me of those super rusted hulks of sunken ironclad ships. Could you make an underwater diorama with everything suspended in transparent resin?
if u use sprugoo that is not so disolved from the acetone it will not have as many holes from the acetone evaporating...
putting them into a pressure pot will not suck out the bubbles... and using a vaccumchamber would make them worse... lol
pressurepots actually compress air bubbles when you use resin making them smaller and hard to see ...
How warm is your shop space. These two part silicone materials and two part resins won't set up fully if they aren't warm enough.
What a fantastic way to stop these gling to landfill.
"the 99.9% is what I usually go for"
>Looks inside
>99.5%
Those walls look very Nurgle.
Very interesting
Im not 100% sure its related but i tend to cut my sprue up tiny before i stick it in acetone and i get fewer bubbles than what im seeing on this video.
Love it!
UV-RESIN doesn't do well with silicon unless either treated with inhibitor or cured for a very long time.
I wonder if the uv resin has Sulphur in it. I know that will mess with silicon curing.
Have you tried making oowy-goowy stuff from plastic bottle caps?
I think it could work
Those are usually a different kind of plastic, polyethylene instead of polystyrene. Way harder to paint and won't dissolve in acetone
They look like you've pulled them up from the sea floor! Aqua Ruins! Would putting them on a vibration pad help encourage bubbles to escape?
How about Necron terrain!?
Perhaps Sprue GLUE is the solution.
Hey this is really cool!!!
I’ve missed the ooey gooey spruey stuff builds!!!!
Pardon my ignorance but what's the point of molding a 3d print to cast when you can just use the 3d printed part? Or is that just to show what can be done with sprue goo for someone that doesn't have a 3d printer
Been watching since the beginning. Glad to see sprue goo make another appearance. Good job as always.
12.50. They must make a Silicone Spoon? That would make it a lot easier to scoop it out of the jar.
Garden of Nurgle after the Orktober drive-bys.
Nurgle terrain 😂. Not bad
Happy Thanksgiving man.
Man, you're going to lose your mind when you find out about 3D printing
Saw someone else doing this and they used a metal spoon. They took the goo
They took the goo out and allowed to air for 10 minutes or so squishing it about and the acetone evaporated and the goo became less sticky. The moulds came out a lot better
Probs better just pouring resin into those moulds lol
Theoretically couldn't you just fill the holes with sprue glue?
Use a vibrater on it while it is drying trust me it will blow you away with how well it work's
Does it dry better when it has been fully satisfied?
Instead of acetone, use ethyl acetate or methyl ethyl ketone. Works much faster and melts much better.
MEK is very serious stuff. Acetone is a bit safer
Cool 👍
Some rubbers react to resin and inhibit curing
19:20 I was just going to say, the hole-filled, slightly melted-looking terrain matches Death Guard pretty well. Like the whole place has been doused in acid. Or maybe has broken out into weeping sores.
Or just a heck of a lot of bullet holes 😂
Nooks and Crannies, Cracks and Crevices, folds of flesh, what I used to tell ms kids in the bath for cleaning themselves......almost teens and did it sink in.......No, no it did not.
You should probably just use a different material. It really shouldn't have that many holes and such poor definition. Sprue goo is better as an adhesive IMO--put the extra sprue in a bottle of plastic cement and use it as a bit more of a gap filling polystyrene cement. Use resin or dental plaster for your terrain. Not sure what happened on the white molds, there are some interesting theories in the comments already but if it didn't cure you should have just thrown them away, don't try to use uncured silicone in this way. Good luck.
Perfectly weird and distorted terrain for Trench Crusade!...Great Vids 👍👍
its not your mixing or the expiredate its the resin from the print you need to seal it beforehand.
They look awful, I LOVE THEM
3d printed stuff has something in it that retards certain silicone from curing. I think there are other you tube videos that can tell you how to sort it out.
It's look good for a corrupted ruin, but not so much for a clean terrain. And this technic need to have already a terrain, so it's clearly not for me (new T'au player who have never get any piece of terrain) 😂
'Here's something I haven't said in a while'...proceeds to say it every second or third word
Should try cd cases instead of sprues. I've not tried is myself but from a few videos I've seen it seems to flow a bit better because there's no additional dyes been added to the plastic. Flows well enough that I've seen people load it up into syringes.
EL CAOS TODO LO PUEDE JAJA
Re tools, put them back were you got them.
I just WISH I Could do it. I'm an atheist thank God
Looks nurgly
Why didn't you just make the molds with your 3D printer instead of the positives you made the object you want to mold those pieces there. that you put in the acrylic boxes into something. like Tinker CAD. Turn them into negative pieces and then cut them out of a box. and then print that box. You would have a rigid, durable mold that you could use. over and over again. And since the polystyrene contracts as it dries, it would pop out pretty easily. Save you from having to buy the latex no
As your comment is a bit difficult to read, I am guessing you are asking why he did not print a mold from the object instead of making a mold from rubber. The simple answer is strength and reuse.
The rubber molds can flex and hold the shape to cast almost indefinitely (with exception to resin casting). A 3D printed mold is too rigid for any kind of cast made that has no flex to it. Basically, if you are making a solid object, you don't want a solid mold as you may break the mold or the object to remove it.
Sprue-Goo does shrink as you said, so you run the risk of the object breaking as it shrinks and dries if in a rigid mold.
@@RvnKnight Yes. Maybe if you've never used TinkerCAD But I've done this procedure with Sprue goo. and it works usually. as the Sprue goo dries, it pops out of the rigid mold. At least that's been my experience. Mind you, I've only done it two or three times.
@@RvnKnight should be fine if the object is designed with slight bevels to all the edges, and plenty of mould release.
Probably at least worth testing. Would even be possible to do two part moulds to help press the sprun goo in better
Muito ruim e cheio de buracos.