HVAC: York RTU Not Cooling Properly/Overheating (York RTU High Head Pressure Troubleshooting/Repair)
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- HVAC: York RTU Not Cooling Properly/Overheating (York RTU High Head Pressure Troubleshooting/Repair) HVAC (Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning) York RTU Not Cooling Follow Up & 1 of 2 Circuits Down (York Packaged RTU Troubleshooting) HVAC: York RTU Not Cooling Properly (York Packaged Roof Top Unit Troubleshooting And Repair) HVAC Service Call: York RTU Low Superheat High Subcooling (Rooftop Package Unit High Head Pressure) HVAC Service Call: York RTU Not Cooling (Package Unit Air Flow Issues) Low Superheat/High Subcooling / York RTU Not Cooling /York RTU Not Heating / York RTU No Heat / York RTU No Cool / HVAC Troubleshooting / AC Air Flow Troubleshooting / How To Clean Condenser Coil / How To Clean Evaporator Coil / How To Clean Air Conditioner Coils For Air Conditioning & Refrigeration Systems #HVAC #RTU #jumpermantech
RTU stands for rooftop unit, and it's a type of HVAC system that's mounted on a building's roof to provide heating, ventilation, and air conditioning. RTUs are also known as packaged systems because all the necessary components, like the compressor, coils, and fans, are contained in one unit.
RTUs are often used in commercial and industrial facilities to heat and cool large areas. They can be water-cooled or fan-cooled, and can produce heat using gas, electricity, or water. The unit uses ductwork to circulate conditioned air throughout the building.
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You can wire those after market motors as a 3 wire or 4 wire motor. There is no need to pull an extra conductor
Exactly. Typically white and white/brown is connected internally. Cap the white/brown wire off.
You could install the fan blades to other sides, so you could tight the set screws easier, because the motors are reversible.
Tip. When you have the fan blade up that high on shaft take Chanel locks on bottom of shaft and spin blade off. ❤
I had to do that when I forgot my hub puller once. An old tech told me to try it.
With the old wires having failed once before, running all new wire was a good idea. But........on those new motors, the white and white/brown wires are electrically the same. The note on the label right below the diagram on the motor shows that. So you could have left the old wiring in use, by connecting as follows: Black to black, Brown to Brown, and the white plus white brow to the yellow. The end result would be electrically the same.
Thought the brown/white could be capped off and not used… so it has to go along with the white and the yellow( in this scenario)
@@Hvacnc Depends on the motor actually. I'd say most of them you can indeed cap off the white/brown, but it doesn't hurt to tie it and the white together. A simple test to verify is use your meter between white and white brown. If the reading is zero ohms (or whatever your meter reads when you touch the leads together when checking the meter itself) , you can cap it off. If it is anything other than zero, best to tie them together.
@@mxslick50 thanks
Done these many time. Remove old motor install the new without the blade so it’s easier to fasten. Then once motor is tight you adjust the blade to proper height. Also you only need 3 wires on all universal motors, cap the brown with white stripe and leave cap where it is.
When you know u know
Use a 1/4” extension in your rachet set. Use the end that would attach to the rachet and place over the square screw head. Use wrench on the opposite end and loosen. Or tighten.
By the time u get the blade off it would have been better to get a new fan ! Less frustrating and faster ? Ps use a small socket that will fit through the hole !
Everydollar counts, if your charging by billable hours take your time also good practice to show your helper how to get busy
I think he mentioned his van got broken into and tools stolen. But I’ve also had some where the nut is too close to the bracket so I couldn’t fit a socket. Had to use a small wrench.
Back baby! You gotta leave a bag of tools inside each of these units my dude, you there all the time
On these types of units, I've come across to were the new CFM gets hooked up with 2 capacitors mistakenly. What I do is cut off the brown/white wire on the new motor and isolate it.
Good quality 12 point sockets can be used on square head bolts/screws. PB Blaster is a better rust breaker choice.
12 pt 3/8 works on those square screws. Usually use my open ens box end wrench
Are those fan blades up side down? Usually I leave the set screws up top and configure the motor rotation to match. Love your vids bro. The stuff you deal with in nyc is wild.
They are upside down
All condenser fan blades are installed upside down, he could’ve flipped the blade and switched rotation on the wire to change rotation of the blade to make it easier for him or the next guy after
@@blancoz9000 blades are curved would lose airflow
Service wrench will get those lock in nuts off those
Nice to see Jumper Man doing back to RUclips.
Thanks for sharing. 🎉🎉🎉
In my experience, and if the customer allows, it is much preferable to replace the fan blade as well. I would think that much force from your puller would deform the blade assembly, resulting in vibration and premature failure of the motor. But, sometimes you have to do what you have to do... Regrettably.
I also reuse the rain slinger and make sure the top weep hole is plugged and the bottom weep hole plug removed... Just some arm chair suggestions.
There are some things he's not very smart 😕 on.
You can drop the brown with the white stripe and run the 3 wires to a dual cap whit black and brown. The brown with white stripe is internally jumped as if on the common. If u don't use the brown with the white strip you just need a dual cap with the c.
That was a high wire act. Nice work.
Another job well done by JMT
Another one for the books chris is a good pilot to have
You make it look so easy, good work
Thank goodness you have those pullers !!! 😊😊😊 Yes cut that axle
leave the blade off until last makes everything easier.
I WOULD A BEEN TERRIFIED OF THAT HEIGHT 😳
Clean, neat job! You the man! JMT
Great video. Thank you for sharing
Nice work Jumper Man.
you could have saved alot of tiime by wiring it with 3 wire instead of 4 wire, usually tells you on motor diagram both ways. or just used oem an would have been a quick swap. atleast you didint let cap hang down under motor, witch i see to often. nice job overall, you just made it a little harder on your self
Man this building is your favorite i guess keeps your on your feet
You're ac service wrench should be able to take the shaft set screws out same as on blower wheels
99% of the time I also replace the fan blade as well....when I don't and they are being a pain like it was for you......use your channel locks behind the blade by the motor.....grab the shaft with one hand....the other hand you spin the fan blade....it'll break loose and you can get the blade off the shaft.
is all time old stuff fun lol we have go true some time good job
Get a hub puller brother 😮😮
should’ve just swapped a motor and blade from circuit not working. if they decide to replace/repair evaporator then put a new oem in then
How can I go on one these missions with you ?
Could’ve just cut the brown/white wire it’s essentially the same wire as brown and could’ve just wired it back the way it was and not needed to do all the extra work.
That pulley is not for condenser fan blade can bust the fan hub
It didnt but
😻💚💜💚
@@ILoveKittys78 💜🔧⚡️
I cringe when you put your tools on top of condenser waiting for it to start 🥴
Why not go OEM?
You're missing a Two pole contactor for the condenser fans, on that circuit, it shouldn't be doubled up on the compressor contactor..........
O really obviously u don't know shit that's how ALOT of units are shipped from the factory
The condenser fan grabs 2 legs from the 3 pole contactor to the compressor, there's nothing wrong with that. A little strange for 2 motors to share 1 capacitor.