@@stanroberts229 yeah man, and calm, I'm digging bikes out of the woods trying to build a steel gravel bike and it's rough. I've threw every thing down for a few days. Some folks have what it takes, I've got to walk away and came back later.
Vintage threaded headset are simple to install and easy to maintain with the correct tools. Ahead designed headset may not have any easy solutions to fix, much like those press fit BBs with poor engineered tolerances, where you can't take a Campagolo headset cutter to the frame. ruclips.net/video/jfW_iimqsTk/видео.html
Because my "about 1972" (serial number starting with "2") Peugeot (27 x 1 1/4) bike has a "threaded headset," I'm going to vote for the "threaded headset" as my favorite type! TY! for a wonderful video re explanations of the two varieties of headsets! Have a great day!
more of this please!!! Only been cycling 2 years and want to be capable of doing my own maintenance beyond drivetrain cleaning and fixing punctures, but to do that I feel like I need a base knowledge of how the puzzle fits together
As to what to show next, though I’m sure BBS will win the requests, I would love to see a cut away frame so we could see how many ways internal cabling is run.
I'd like to see more about shifting and derailleurs if possible, I'm just getting into road cycling... been on fixed gear's for awhile so I'd like to know all I can! Cheers and thanks
I bought a new bike and I tightened the headset like a mofo and the front fork is barely rotation. I had no idea how headsets worked, until I watched this video. Now I have to go back to my garage and loosen that dammed headset before I have my first ride with the bike. Thanks for the video, I subscribed and I'm hoping to learn everything about bikes in the next couple of years.
Great video man. You're clear and concise with extra information as and when it's needed. As someone with barely any knowledge in bike mechanics I was able to reassemble an old bike 👌 super helpful
A great feature Jon, love a deep-dive into the tech world. The bicycle is a seemingly simple machine but without these simple and few parts being understood and fitted correctly then there lies trouble. Not sure if there is a feature in it but would you consider demonstrating how to conduct checks and assessments of bikes...? How to detect cable drag, bearing wear, identifying the dreaded creak and squeak origins maybe? More thorough than a pre-ride check...also how about historical features on bike manufacturers...BSA and Orbea being gun makers back in the day I believe. Thanks, keep them coming and the rubber side down...
You often have to re-check the headset bearing adjustment after installing the stem since the expansion wedge can affect the threaded cup a slight bit.
That what you said about the 0.25mm washer...i took my bike to a shop and they changed the height for the stem after a bike fit. I'm pretty sure they didn't put this washer in. I've since put one in but it's not thin enough. Without it the bearing don't compress properly leaving headset loose. To the point now I have that so much issues with it coming loose or not feeling right that I might just buy a different headset
Thank you Integrated headset starts at 10:55. I got a brand new frame, totally naked. I need to buy a headset - I see there are so many types, probably the upper and lower diameter are key parameters but I see several other parameters I can chose from --> confused.
I have two race bikes and yes they are just like the ones you have done Jon many thanks it does take longer to do threaded headsets but I needed to change them over twenty yeas ago and you don’t forget how to do them. One question where was your GLOVES just saying great vid
My old bike that I used to rack on back in the day had the old style with a Campy headset. My new one has an A headset...much easier to setup and adjust the A and to me it makes much more sense to bolt the stem directly to the steerer.
please make a video about every detail assembly (like this one) for every component of the bike! I really want to completely disassemble my bike and put it back together but I don't have any tools :( Love this video BTW :)
The locknut of the threaded headset usually incorporated an O ring, which sealed against the stem, preventing water ingress. It's therefore easier to install the stem before tightening the locknut - otherwise pushing the wedge of the stem thru the O ring could damage it.
Guess I am a little late to the party. I own a 40+ year-old Gitane Pro with all first-gen Dura Ace, and I had never heard of the threadless until today. I had wondered why the headsets on newer bikes looked different; now I know. Looks like a nice system, but there is absolutely no adjustment that I can see. I know the current trend is to slam the bars as low as possible to be more aero, but some of us are past that point. Call me old school, but I will stick with a threaded. Great video, though!
what a beautiful simoncini bike! I hope you still have it! what year is it and how much does it weigh? what grease are you using in the video? very well done video!
Fun fact: Specialized tapered headset bearings are nowhere to be found in Russia, just ordered them from England. Shoutout to the Edge Sports UK store!
An excellent way to feel even the smallest play inside the headset: is to work the front brake and than push the hole bike a little back and forth. You will feel a tiny bit of movement until your headst is adjusted perfectly.
"and now you just put on some greasy fingerprints on Opie's bike so that he sees what he gets from lending it to me ..." :D just kidding :-) nice video, Jon! thanks for the nice explanation and inside-view
Sorry to be dumb about this, 14:12 was there a bit of video missing - the upper bearing being fitted? Was the thing with a split in it the compression ring, or is that also the bearing? I really appreciate these videos, but if they are for the likes of me, please include everything - e.g. the tool that you used to fit the traditional bottom ring, seeing you hit that (so we can glean what sort of force is needed) and with what type of hammer, what do you stand the forks on while you hit down on them - these little things really would help. Last questions: Does Chris have his brakes the other way round (you're holding the left brake to check for rocking)? and (novice question) is it always ok to remove the top cap (to check for the gap you mentioned) or is there some risk of the bung coming loose? Thanks for these videos.
This is going to turn into Jon Canning's Bike Overhaul Adventures! If it's not, I would pay to watch it, we'll also learn how many bikes JC has hidden from the better half :D
Lovely and succinct but could have done with a couple more closeup on crucial ball race bits. Still not sure which way up they should be as he appeared to put top one on the other way from what I was expecting after seeing how he did bottom one. I thought they would be opposite - two seconds more explanation would have done the trick. Hopefully watching that bit again will sort it out.
final adjustments of a traditional headset should be done after installing the quill stem as the binder bolt/wedge slightly distorts the steerer tube affecting the adjustment slightly
the slight bulging of the quill wedge and hence the steerer tube effectively shortens the length of the tube between bearings , not much but it can change the carefully set bearing preload.
That Simoncini ist just beautiful! Would be even more beautiful with a Campagnolo Super Record track- or C-Rec headset and something like a gleamingly polished Cinelli 1a or 1r stem and matching silver handelbars wrapped in red benotto cello tape to complimentarily contrast the nice forest green of the frame.
Using a threaded headset means that you can use a quill stem where the handle bar height can be adjusted infinitely for the perfect drop position height without affecting the headset pre load and the need to use spacers. If the ahead stem is slammed with the steerer tube cut down for safety you cannot raise the handlebars if required in the future. And no ahead stem comes close to the classic look of a Cinelli XA quill stem.
At least with threadless, you can adjust it with allen key instead of two big spanners. Also, threadless stems don't bulge the steerer like quill stems do, which is also exacerbated by having to put grease on the quill in order to prevent seizing. And that's because water and sweaty can-and will- easily make its way in the gap between the steerer and quill. watch?v=Dy44e5J9xsw watch?v=0GRbdnTRH-4 watch?v=8b4t42wiJpQ watch?v=knEvRhM-g4Q watch?v=7GvN7w386U0
how are you going to line up the bar and stem from sitting off at such an angle? lol… i always have to look right over mine and then ride it afterwards to check and adjust
2:26 that dust seal broke when I just installed a new fork on my bike. Is that absolutely necessary even though the bike originally came with it? I would like to buy it, but not sure if they sell just that part.
Ok so you greased the headset cups when pressing them in, what's the hive mind opinion on this, I've heard and done both (grease vs dry) and not convinced either is correct.
I've been advised that if you slam your stem, you want to always leave 5-10 mm of spacers on top of the stem but Chris's bike's steerer is flush with his stem. Is there a reason his can go flush and others can't? Thanks
I recently lowered my stem by moving four 5mm spacers from below the stem to above (haven't yet cut the fork) and for this reason the top cap tightens above the four spacers (as opposed to above the stem) just not sure if this will cause play in the whole assembly.
Hi Arman, 20mm is a relatively tall stack on top of the stem, but the assembly is designed to work with spacers above the stem as long as there are no 'free floating' spacers that aren't constrained by the fork then this is fine. Ideally you should cut the forks once you have the correct fit though!
i will recommend steer tube higher than stem, add extra spacer its better the stem can fully hold the steer tube about the expansion plug, try to find the longest one as you can. torque up min.5~6nm better be 7nm it the expansion plug not tighen enough, when you preload the headset bearing, it will keep bring up the expansion plug and the plug will damage the inside of steer tube
But once you preloaded your bearings, tightening the stem bolts should keep the preload. The top cap and star nut will not be relied on much after that.
Depends on how wet your riding conditions are and if you feel anything off in the front end. After a many very wet rides, dirt and water gets into the bearings and bottom race. It can feel rough, get a creaking sound, or even get some play. Good to clean it all out and a fresh coat of grease.
Awesome as always!
Jon's explanation is technical, but easy to understand. Hats off to Jon.
I was a mechanic back in the day. When the A-headset came out I remember feeling like it was the greatest invention since the bicycle itself 😀
Well I didn't know working on a vintage headset could be done without using bad language😀.
Derek Smith he really knows what he is doing!
@@stanroberts229 yeah man, and calm, I'm digging bikes out of the woods trying to build a steel gravel bike and it's rough. I've threw every thing down for a few days. Some folks have what it takes, I've got to walk away and came back later.
Vintage threaded headset are simple to install and easy to maintain with the correct tools.
Ahead designed headset may not have any easy solutions to fix, much like those press fit BBs with poor engineered tolerances, where you can't take a Campagolo headset cutter to the frame.
ruclips.net/video/jfW_iimqsTk/видео.html
The magic of editing
Because my "about 1972" (serial number starting with "2") Peugeot (27 x 1 1/4) bike has a "threaded headset," I'm going to vote for the "threaded headset" as my favorite type! TY! for a wonderful video re explanations of the two varieties of headsets! Have a great day!
more of this please!!! Only been cycling 2 years and want to be capable of doing my own maintenance beyond drivetrain cleaning and fixing punctures, but to do that I feel like I need a base knowledge of how the puzzle fits together
Yes Jon, an hour long episode for Bottom Brackets, it's inevitable
I would watch it
Best visual explanation of the differences between threaded and threadless I’ve seen so far.
This is the best vid I’ve seen on installing threaded headsets. Really appreciate the beginning when you go through the different parts. Thank youuuuu
As to what to show next, though I’m sure BBS will win the requests, I would love to see a cut away frame so we could see how many ways internal cabling is run.
I'd like to see more about shifting and derailleurs if possible, I'm just getting into road cycling... been on fixed gear's for awhile so I'd like to know all I can! Cheers and thanks
I bought a new bike and I tightened the headset like a mofo and the front fork is barely rotation. I had no idea how headsets worked, until I watched this video. Now I have to go back to my garage and loosen that dammed headset before I have my first ride with the bike. Thanks for the video, I subscribed and I'm hoping to learn everything about bikes in the next couple of years.
That old track bike is 👌
Fantastic video! Threaded vs threadless, 20 minutes vs 5. Of course like you, I have both in my array of bikes.
Michael Albany No thanks it's enough with durianruders disc vs rim fiasco
@@glennoc8585 That is the fun! Having multiple options and lots to play with and get techie over!
The first bike brought back memories from the 70's and 80's.
Have done that job a lot of times ☺
And was about 12 years old when I startet...
Great video man. You're clear and concise with extra information as and when it's needed. As someone with barely any knowledge in bike mechanics I was able to reassemble an old bike 👌 super helpful
A great feature Jon, love a deep-dive into the tech world. The bicycle is a seemingly simple machine but without these simple and few parts being understood and fitted correctly then there lies trouble. Not sure if there is a feature in it but would you consider demonstrating how to conduct checks and assessments of bikes...? How to detect cable drag, bearing wear, identifying the dreaded creak and squeak origins maybe? More thorough than a pre-ride check...also how about historical features on bike manufacturers...BSA and Orbea being gun makers back in the day I believe. Thanks, keep them coming and the rubber side down...
Cable drag! Now that's a real hate of mine.
You often have to re-check the headset bearing adjustment after installing the stem since the expansion wedge can affect the threaded cup a slight bit.
That what you said about the 0.25mm washer...i took my bike to a shop and they changed the height for the stem after a bike fit. I'm pretty sure they didn't put this washer in. I've since put one in but it's not thin enough. Without it the bearing don't compress properly leaving headset loose. To the point now I have that so much issues with it coming loose or not feeling right that I might just buy a different headset
This is the best series ever
I would like you to explain cable adjustments for brakes and shifters. Thank you for all you do on the channel. Ride, Tech to the level of your smile.
next time can you talk about differences in bottom bracket? how many spacers and different standarts??
That would be a season or 5
well, si did do a video on bottom brackets.....but i would rather have one with jon explaining it
Thank you
Integrated headset starts at 10:55. I got a brand new frame, totally naked. I need to buy a headset - I see there are so many types, probably the upper and lower diameter are key parameters but I see several other parameters I can chose from --> confused.
if Chris Opie is anything like me he'll never feel the same about his steering again! That Orbea is a gorgeous bike.
Good video and explanation. Bottom brackets next please 👍
Top tech headset tour... much appreciated. Very clear.
This type of content I want more. Bring back also maintenance monday and more indoor training videos!!!
Thanks Vesi, noted!
Exact 20 minute video. So pleasing.
Finally! Now I know what those micro-spacers/washers are for!
I have two race bikes and yes they are just like the ones you have done Jon many thanks it does take longer to do threaded headsets but I needed to change them over twenty yeas ago and you don’t forget how to do them. One question where was your GLOVES just saying great vid
6:05 said bearings most visible side down, then put them on the other way up. Am I missing something?
Exactly, the most visible side of the bearings assembly is certainly placed upwards, not downwards in this video! 😲
Thanks jon for your answer
Well done. Thank you for the clear explanation of the different headset systems.
1:52 got to love Raleigh's proprietary 26tpi standards for everything
My old bike that I used to rack on back in the day had the old style with a Campy headset. My new one has an A headset...much easier to setup and adjust the A and to me it makes much more sense to bolt the stem directly to the steerer.
Nice video. Thanks for the quality and detailed education.
This was an exceptionally informative video. Thank you very much.
what a nice frame. A lil bit to big for me, but a good lookin track frame.
Thx Jon, great explanation. 👍
Great video Jon. ..
I'm in the process of restoring a 1990's bianchi. road bike and this video is very helpful. ... best regards. Rudy
Ooft, make sure you let us know how you get on with it!
Great video. Thank you, especially the instruction come with threaded and threadless headset/fork
please make a video about every detail assembly (like this one) for every component of the bike! I really want to completely disassemble my bike and put it back together but I don't have any tools :( Love this video BTW :)
Great videos Jon! How about gear shifters (STI) next?
I like them both!
The locknut of the threaded headset usually incorporated an O ring, which sealed against the stem, preventing water ingress. It's therefore easier to install the stem before tightening the locknut - otherwise pushing the wedge of the stem thru the O ring could damage it.
Guess I am a little late to the party. I own a 40+ year-old Gitane Pro with all first-gen Dura Ace, and I had never heard of the threadless until today. I had wondered why the headsets on newer bikes looked different; now I know. Looks like a nice system, but there is absolutely no adjustment that I can see. I know the current trend is to slam the bars as low as possible to be more aero, but some of us are past that point. Call me old school, but I will stick with a threaded. Great video, though!
I love talking tech. What else would you like me to explain the inner workings of?!
STI and others shifting systems for road bikes, please! Also, tell what makes STI so expensive!
Tell about STI and other shifting systems, please!
STI shifting system should be next please.
Jon Cannings a diy version of aligning derailleurhangers
Please take apart a delta-brake and put it together again - again ;-)
what a beautiful simoncini bike! I hope you still have it! what year is it and how much does it weigh?
what grease are you using in the video? very well done video!
Fun fact: Specialized tapered headset bearings are nowhere to be found in Russia, just ordered them from England. Shoutout to the Edge Sports UK store!
Woow! Awesome steel vintage you got there! Maybe doing an episode on it?
An excellent way to feel even the smallest play inside the headset: is to work the front brake and than push the hole bike a little back and forth. You will feel a tiny bit of movement until your headst is adjusted perfectly.
Fantastic explanation....thanks!
can you make a video on what specs should I be looking for if I were to replace a steel fork to a carbon fork on road bikes?
That Simoncini is a lovely frame and fork...I would love to see it built-up!How about covering l'Eroica with it?...
Someone get Jon a rag to wipe the grease off his hands next time. Great video!
Most enlightening, thanks JonnyTech!
Hi. Brilliant show. Can you explain how bicycle GPS low jack works and is it worth to buy it. Thank you
Thank you for this video!!!!! So helpful. Just swapped out my 1989 threaded giant neutra
Great video! If the threaded steerer tube is alittle too long can you just cut it down alittle with a hacksaw so the headset fits on good? Thank you!
Nice fixie, John!🤪
"and now you just put on some greasy fingerprints on Opie's bike so that he sees what he gets from lending it to me ..." :D
just kidding :-) nice video, Jon! thanks for the nice explanation and inside-view
Sorry to be dumb about this, 14:12 was there a bit of video missing - the upper bearing being fitted? Was the thing with a split in it the compression ring, or is that also the bearing? I really appreciate these videos, but if they are for the likes of me, please include everything - e.g. the tool that you used to fit the traditional bottom ring, seeing you hit that (so we can glean what sort of force is needed) and with what type of hammer, what do you stand the forks on while you hit down on them - these little things really would help.
Last questions: Does Chris have his brakes the other way round (you're holding the left brake to check for rocking)? and (novice question) is it always ok to remove the top cap (to check for the gap you mentioned) or is there some risk of the bung coming loose? Thanks for these videos.
Please explain STI leavers. Thanks.
They have a video on that I think by Si Richardson.
Try looking up "How to use road bike levers.
Very helpful. Thanks
This is going to turn into Jon Canning's Bike Overhaul Adventures! If it's not, I would pay to watch it, we'll also learn how many bikes JC has hidden from the better half :D
No way. I don't want her to find out
Lovely and succinct but could have done with a couple more closeup on crucial ball race bits. Still not sure which way up they should be as he appeared to put top one on the other way from what I was expecting after seeing how he did bottom one. I thought they would be opposite - two seconds more explanation would have done the trick. Hopefully watching that bit again will sort it out.
Great closeups of Jon's grubby little hands.
final adjustments of a traditional headset should be done after installing the quill stem as the binder bolt/wedge slightly distorts the steerer tube affecting the adjustment slightly
the slight bulging of the quill wedge and hence the steerer tube effectively shortens the length of the tube between bearings , not much but it can change the carefully set bearing preload.
Aaah, the starfangled nut. Not missed.
Great video thanks!
Is it possible to do the threaded headset installation without that huge tool used to compress the cups into the frame?
That Simoncini ist just beautiful! Would be even more beautiful with a Campagnolo Super Record track- or C-Rec headset and something like a gleamingly polished Cinelli 1a or 1r stem and matching silver handelbars wrapped in red benotto cello tape to complimentarily contrast the nice forest green of the frame.
excellent video
Using a threaded headset means that you can use a quill stem where the handle bar height can be adjusted infinitely for the perfect drop position height without affecting the headset pre load and the need to use spacers. If the ahead stem is slammed with the steerer tube cut down for safety you cannot raise the handlebars if required in the future. And no ahead stem comes close to the classic look of a Cinelli XA quill stem.
At least with threadless, you can adjust it with allen key instead of two big spanners. Also, threadless stems don't bulge the steerer like quill stems do, which is also exacerbated by having to put grease on the quill in order to prevent seizing. And that's because water and sweaty can-and will- easily make its way in the gap between the steerer and quill.
watch?v=Dy44e5J9xsw
watch?v=0GRbdnTRH-4
watch?v=8b4t42wiJpQ
watch?v=knEvRhM-g4Q
watch?v=7GvN7w386U0
Are there any video tutorials on how to fully disassemble a road bike?
Definitely threaded headsets 😁
What about Canyon type headsets? Are they any good? Considered buying their bike but reading some opinions over the internet made me curious...
how to service a bike with out a bike stand,gmbn got the stand today then ?
how are you going to line up the bar and stem from sitting off at such an angle? lol… i always have to look right over mine and then ride it afterwards to check and adjust
2:26 that dust seal broke when I just installed a new fork on my bike. Is that absolutely necessary even though the bike originally came with it? I would like to buy it, but not sure if they sell just that part.
Can you fit an ahead fork on an threaded Frame?
Most rame builders in the past tended to stick to one or two variations ss the reaming tools weren't cheap.
Jon, what is the recommended torque for the internal nut/expander in the carbon fork tube? thanks
Ok so you greased the headset cups when pressing them in, what's the hive mind opinion on this, I've heard and done both (grease vs dry) and not convinced either is correct.
zooming in whilst assembling the different parts would be very helpfull.
I always wondered what that funny looking tool with the little knob was for.
Presenting tech videos, it turns out.
😂
My front fork does nog have a crown race should i be worried? The shop says it's supposed to be like this on this fork
What about the proprietary Look and Time head sets ;)
I've been advised that if you slam your stem, you want to always leave 5-10 mm of spacers on top of the stem but Chris's bike's steerer is flush with his stem. Is there a reason his can go flush and others can't? Thanks
Love the supercheap bike on the wall
May I know the code for threadless headset.I want to put it in my road bike.
I recently lowered my stem by moving four 5mm spacers from below the stem to above (haven't yet cut the fork) and for this reason the top cap tightens above the four spacers (as opposed to above the stem) just not sure if this will cause play in the whole assembly.
Hi Arman, 20mm is a relatively tall stack on top of the stem, but the assembly is designed to work with spacers above the stem as long as there are no 'free floating' spacers that aren't constrained by the fork then this is fine. Ideally you should cut the forks once you have the correct fit though!
THANK YOU
Thanks bro
What's he applying before he inserts the cups?
Do I see a Mavic crank or is that how old cranksets looked
Can you do that again but with an Isospeed headset, so many extra bits !? :-0 :-)
i will recommend steer tube higher than stem, add extra spacer
its better the stem can fully hold the steer tube
about the expansion plug, try to find the longest one as you can. torque up min.5~6nm better be 7nm
it the expansion plug not tighen enough, when you preload the headset bearing, it will keep bring up the expansion plug
and the plug will damage the inside of steer tube
But once you preloaded your bearings, tightening the stem bolts should keep the preload. The top cap and star nut will not be relied on much after that.
How often do headset problems arise? In 40 years of mucking about with bikes I have never taken apart a headset or encountered a headset problem.
Depends on how wet your riding conditions are and if you feel anything off in the front end. After a many very wet rides, dirt and water gets into the bearings and bottom race. It can feel rough, get a creaking sound, or even get some play. Good to clean it all out and a fresh coat of grease.
thanks!
Is the seat hight ajustable?