The numbers don’t look good for only going .1 grain increments. You should try another primer. In all respect, I think you should rework how you do load development. You might be brand new to hand loading, and I mean no disrespect, but something isn’t quite right In your method. Don’t chase just the first good node. Your node should be about half a grain to a grain and a half, of consistency. I would not choose that one decent looking es and sd. Just my $.02. Also, if the sign of pressure was the half moon, I wouldn’t worry about it, because my tikkas do it on mild loads, although, you should be over pressure at 65 grains! Me personally, I wouldn’t have gone over 65.2 grains. I recommend using hodgdon’s reloading data.
@@gunsnoroses that would be my next step. I use the full length dies with the expander removed, then I use an expander mandrel. I use a .002 under caliber mandrel to set the neck tension at .002. I use the 21st century die and mandrels. .002 has always given me the lowest es and sd. I mean both under 10 or even 5. Btw, did you find a load?
@@leonardogarcia2506 66.7gr H1000. The 0.1 gr increments were done after I did an initial ladder test. I did this test on two nodes. Hopefully that clarifies it. Testing out different methods.
@@gunsnoroses ah! I see. In my opinion and from what I’ve gathered through some of the same resources you’ve mentioned, .1 is pretty small for such a large cartridge. Usually small increments like that are more for something like the 6br. Besides, you need a wide node, for factors like weather. Usually hot temps will cause higher velocities taking you out of a small node, and Vice versa for colder temps. Btw, I’m also shooting a tikka with a proof pre fit. Mine is 26”. I’m using the hells canyon armory magazine. Highly recommend! Either way, it doesn’t quite look like you’re in any kind of node, I’d go lower and something should jump out at you. Also, I appreciate the humility! It says a lot about your character.
I’m loving it so far. Jam-20 is right at 2.530 and fits the factory mags without any issues. I’m doing seating depth now and will put something out when completed.
I got 600 rounds through it so far and no issues. I check with a bore scope. I did drop the charge down and now am running around 2875 f/s. I haven’t experienced any accuracy issues with either.
Did you anneal the cases....?
I anneal after every firing. I don’t anneal virgin brass.
Looking forward to the next video.
What is the actual case volume in grains?
I haven’t actually measure that. The charge weight for my load had decent room left. Definitely was not compressed.
The numbers don’t look good for only going .1 grain increments. You should try another primer. In all respect, I think you should rework how you do load development. You might be brand new to hand loading, and I mean no disrespect, but something isn’t quite right In your method. Don’t chase just the first good node. Your node should be about half a grain to a grain and a half, of consistency. I would not choose that one decent looking es and sd. Just my $.02. Also, if the sign of pressure was the half moon, I wouldn’t worry about it, because my tikkas do it on mild loads, although, you should be over pressure at 65 grains! Me personally, I wouldn’t have gone over 65.2 grains. I recommend using hodgdon’s reloading data.
@@leonardogarcia2506 appreciate the feedback. One issue that came up was light neck tension. Different ways to skin a cat right?
@@gunsnoroses that would be my next step. I use the full length dies with the expander removed, then I use an expander mandrel. I use a .002 under caliber mandrel to set the neck tension at .002. I use the 21st century die and mandrels. .002 has always given me the lowest es and sd. I mean both under 10 or even 5. Btw, did you find a load?
@@leonardogarcia2506 66.7gr H1000. The 0.1 gr increments were done after I did an initial ladder test. I did this test on two nodes. Hopefully that clarifies it. Testing out different methods.
@@gunsnoroses ah! I see. In my opinion and from what I’ve gathered through some of the same resources you’ve mentioned, .1 is pretty small for such a large cartridge. Usually small increments like that are more for something like the 6br. Besides, you need a wide node, for factors like weather. Usually hot temps will cause higher velocities taking you out of a small node, and Vice versa for colder temps. Btw, I’m also shooting a tikka with a proof pre fit. Mine is 26”. I’m using the hells canyon armory magazine. Highly recommend! Either way, it doesn’t quite look like you’re in any kind of node, I’d go lower and something should jump out at you. Also, I appreciate the humility! It says a lot about your character.
Great build man. I love it, and am considering doing the same build. How’s the 7prc fitting in the tikka? Any limitations to length of bullet seating?
I’m loving it so far. Jam-20 is right at 2.530 and fits the factory mags without any issues. I’m doing seating depth now and will put something out when completed.
What’s the diameter of the comparitor you’re using?
I’m not sure what the exact diameter is but it’s the 7mm insert from Short Actions Customs.
@@gunsnoroses thanks, that explains the difference in jam measurement. I believe SAC puts a taper on their comparators.
180grain bullets at 2900fps???? How many shots you expect out of that barrel? And what is the accuracy like? Don't chase the speed, chase accuracy!!!!
I got 600 rounds through it so far and no issues. I check with a bore scope. I did drop the charge down and now am running around 2875 f/s. I haven’t experienced any accuracy issues with either.