my only comment on the tool posts would be to change out the allen grub screws in the tool holder for some proper hardened grub screws as I found it was too easy to strip the socket on those grub screws tightening them.
I have one of the bigger ones on my south bend 13", and all I had to do was machine down that bottom plate to fit in the T slot of the lathe, I believe the model I got was the 250-200, they have the dimensions shown on the arceuro website (the other model is the 250-100)
I did exactly the same thing about 2 weeks ago on my optimum lathe although I just drilled the hole on the drill press . The good thing is you can go back to the old toolpost very easily .
Nice work as usual Ade. FYI I went with the bigger brother of this qctp for my wm-180. it's the 250-100. it takes a larger stud than the warco. so I wound up recutting the bottom thread on it to fit the warco boss. Then clocked up the body in the 4-jaw to bore the boss recess. I found the steel to be very hard around the edges, less so a little deeper in (case hardened?) on my warco the larger tool holders run very close to the bottom of their positional range to be on centre, but it does work great. I've slowly ordered more of the holders whenever I have a reason to order from banggood.
You do great work Ade. I very well enjoy the depth of description for ryme and reason for each thing you do on your projects. It helps with learning curve for me as im learning to machine myself with lathes and a mill and graduate from the old fashion grinder and trial methods. Hopefully i can be half the machinist you are bud in reasonable timing. I am subscribing right now 👍
Hi Ade, really appreciate you doing this on the lathe and not the mill! I've taken delivery of a WM180 recently and have been holding back getting a QCTP due to the number of variations and the fact that the WM180 has that 18mm boss. After your last video modifying one, I thought it was a bit past my beginner skills to modify one of the eBay ones, however this video makes it look quite easy. Will have a look for a 250-100 as mentioned in the description above 👍 Happy New Year
Dear bbjunkie, Bought the WM180 a year ago and then bought the 250-000 and made a new base plate on a pillar drill with 1/4 plate. Works just fine. Though I should have bought the 250-100 as it 'squares up nicely on the top slide, a little more beef to the compound as it were. Happy engineering.
Got one of these on my Chester DB7. I used a piece of 1/4" steel for the spacer. It works perfectly. Don't try and get the angled parting blade holder though.... It's too high. The flat parting blade holder is perfect with a 3/32" HSS blade.
Love using the lathe for this mod. Yes, the mill is quick and easy, but not everyone has a mill, and the lathe versatility is only limited by our imagination. Best wishes for 2022, Ade!
Agreed, once you get good with a lathe it starts to become the best tool for the job... any job. 😁 Pleasant to use, easier to clean up, and a really nice surface finish.
I have enjoyed watching this Video. I have one of these 250-000 tool posts on my ML7. It works well in the confines of a 3 1/2" centre ht lathe. You certainly do need its dedicated parting toolholder. Also, I think it prefers HSS tooling.. But the ML7 is designed around a speed of under 1000rpm so HSS tooling. Also, for the Myford you get a needle thrust bearing to go beneath the clamp nut. The 250-000 is designed around the Sieg C2/3 & Myford ML7/10 type lathes. By the way I am a very keen watcher of your Channel. I like to watch people who know what they are doing. I am looking forwards to seeing what you will do with your Mini-Lathe. Regards, Mervyn Price.
Some years ago I bought the next size up for a 180 lathe. It was far too big. A couple of years ago I bought the small one like you have there. It is a bit small, but works well and I like it. If only there was an in-betweeny. I have another 180 lathe with a Dickson QCTP. For the work I do, I prefer the small wedge to the Dickson.
@@Festivejelly From memory, I think the only mod I had to do was remake and thread the mounting stud. Sorry I don’t remember why but I’m sure it will be obvious. It’s worked perfectly to date.
Worrying about the register isn’t really that important. As long as the stem fits the stud without too much slop, it’s fine. After all, for most lathes, large and small, that’s how it works. The bottom of the post just rides on the top flat of the compound rest. If the lathe is halfway decently machined, that should be properly parallel to the ways in both directions, and all is fine. Maybe a round version that bottom plate that doesn’t project beyond the post would be better to allow the holders to drop slightly below the bottom of the post. The Warco stud is just a stud from a mill clamping set. And congratulations on 11k subscribers.
Happy new year to you Ade. Yes the 250-000 is perfect for the mini lathe, got on myself. really needs to be a 250-100 on the Warco 180 to get the most out of it, I have a feeling he's gong to be a bit disappointed after a bit that he didn't go for the bigger tool post. But we all live and learn, and know for next time. Ask me how I know.
I just got the 250-000 for my bv20. Looks small but the 250-111 (or 100) was a tad too big. With the 000 it’s better suited centre height and the 10mm stud has no slop. If I’d got the 111 the stud would need machining down from m14 to m10 to work with the hole in the compound slide.
Thanks for showing this Ade, very much appreciated. I have the WM180 and was looking at the warco one. Luckily they are out of stock and the price is ridiculous. Thanks again.
Those import toolposts are quite nice, and a much cheaper alternative to their American brethren 😊. Had to modify mine as well to accommodate my old Atlas compound but it sure beats the old lantern style that came with it, however, I do revert back to it from time to time 😁. Hope you had a merry one and a Happy 2022 to you! Cheers! 👍😁👍
Great work Ade always good when you can help out a subscriber. Just a word of warning for whom ever this is intended for I did original use the exact same QCTP as this one with the same stud and after a few days of use with some heavy cuts it actual broke the register of of my compound. On inspecting it I put it down to the threads not being longer enough to fully wind into the compound so just be cautious probably ok for light work.
@@ade63dug well done Ade I’m sure that you I’ll make someone very happy. Happy new year to you. Look forward to what your going to do with that currently sad look mini lathe. All the best
Glad you mentioned this, as i did notice the threads was not long enough but thought nothing of it, Luckily I changed Tool post to a T37 type before I came across the same problem. This is why RUclips channels are a good source for knowledge IF one reads The Comments :)
Hi John . It is used more often when boring holes where the tool size cant be as rigid as when turning outside diameters. To tool deflects or springs away from the work piece under load . the spring pass is taken to allow the light load to cut the material not cut due to the spring or deflection . Or, it could be a cut taken in the season before summer, lol. Cheers Ade.
Hi Ade. I fitted a 250-111 to my myford super 7B. The toolpost is 55mm square. The next size up from the one you have done. The holders are bigger too. I did a video of it. I also made some more holders & made the slots a little bigger. Around 15mm square. If you need any dims i can measure for you. Regards & HNY Steve.
Since the plate really doesn't do anything to help keep the QCTP centered on the stud, making sure the hole is a tight fit isn't important. Now, switch to a 3 jaw chuck and bore out that hole since that is the chuck everyone will get with their lathe. ;-D
What is the whole idea about 4 jaws independent chuck? I have same lathe and a same spare chuck but never used it, it takes time to centre it... Why is self entering one not supplied with the lathe? Thanks
The lathe does not have a feed gearbox , to change the feed rate you need to change the gear ratio in the screw cutting drive train. takes ages . with the electric feed driving the leadscrew I can change the feed rate during a cut or at any time . I can now also reverse the feed . I now run the lathe with the banjo disconnected and I can easily reconnect for cutting threads . Cheers Ade.
i have a seig c4 and if i use a bigger tool post i cant use 12 mm tools , the holders on these have a thin support on the bottom edge, i only use a 1.5 mm releived floating spacer to alow claming forces to actvthrough the outer diameter of the base. i have even used 20 mm shank, cutters with dovetail machined on them and height adjuster soldered on, but whed turning upside down thes are only held on by the toolpost grip and i havent had one slip yet. I do try to minimise stick out on such a tool, but the tool post does not interfere with your cut an you are clear of your slide( i filled about 6mm off one corner, and might be using a relocated mounting hole, again to minimise stick out)
I have the same tool post on my Mini Lathe Ade, and it works perfect with 8 and 10 mm tooling, But there is no need for the bottom plate. Mines a 7 by 14 mini lathe.
Tell the owner of the tool post to remove the Allen head grub screws in the tool holders and throw them into the scrap bin. The quality is miserable. Buy some European or American screws and save your self from having to learn some new curse words when one of the hex heads split out and you can't unscrew it to remove the tool.
Nicely done Ade, your new camera makes it all look far bigger than it is in reality lol. The bottom thickness of the cartridge looks a bit weedy, I think I would be tempted to make some dedicated ones where adjustments weren't really required (lose some scope) and beef the bottom face up a bit! Looking forward to the mini lathe project. Cheers, Jon
my only comment on the tool posts would be to change out the allen grub screws in the tool holder for some proper hardened grub screws as I found it was too easy to strip the socket on those grub screws tightening them.
I have one of the bigger ones on my south bend 13", and all I had to do was machine down that bottom plate to fit in the T slot of the lathe, I believe the model I got was the 250-200, they have the dimensions shown on the arceuro website (the other model is the 250-100)
Nice to show how to do it in the lathe. As you said, not everyone has a mill.
I enjoyed this video Ade. Thanks.
I did exactly the same thing about 2 weeks ago on my optimum lathe although I just drilled the hole on the drill press . The good thing is you can go back to the old toolpost very easily .
Nice work as usual Ade. FYI I went with the bigger brother of this qctp for my wm-180. it's the 250-100. it takes a larger stud than the warco. so I wound up recutting the bottom thread on it to fit the warco boss. Then clocked up the body in the 4-jaw to bore the boss recess. I found the steel to be very hard around the edges, less so a little deeper in (case hardened?) on my warco the larger tool holders run very close to the bottom of their positional range to be on centre, but it does work great. I've slowly ordered more of the holders whenever I have a reason to order from banggood.
You do great work Ade. I very well enjoy the depth of description for ryme and reason for each thing you do on your projects. It helps with learning curve for me as im learning to machine myself with lathes and a mill and graduate from the old fashion grinder and trial methods. Hopefully i can be half the machinist you are bud in reasonable timing. I am subscribing right now 👍
Hi Ade, really appreciate you doing this on the lathe and not the mill! I've taken delivery of a WM180 recently and have been holding back getting a QCTP due to the number of variations and the fact that the WM180 has that 18mm boss. After your last video modifying one, I thought it was a bit past my beginner skills to modify one of the eBay ones, however this video makes it look quite easy. Will have a look for a 250-100 as mentioned in the description above 👍 Happy New Year
Dear bbjunkie, Bought the WM180 a year ago and then bought the 250-000 and made a new base plate on a pillar drill with 1/4 plate. Works just fine. Though I should have bought the 250-100 as it 'squares up nicely on the top slide, a little more beef to the compound as it were. Happy engineering.
Got one of these on my Chester DB7. I used a piece of 1/4" steel for the spacer. It works perfectly. Don't try and get the angled parting blade holder though.... It's too high. The flat parting blade holder is perfect with a 3/32" HSS blade.
Hello Ade,
A nice video to start the year and congratulations on passing the 11,000 subscriber milestone...
Take care.
Paul,,
Love using the lathe for this mod. Yes, the mill is quick and easy, but not everyone has a mill, and the lathe versatility is only limited by our imagination.
Best wishes for 2022, Ade!
Agreed, once you get good with a lathe it starts to become the best tool for the job... any job. 😁
Pleasant to use, easier to clean up, and a really nice surface finish.
I have enjoyed watching this Video. I have one of these 250-000 tool posts on my ML7. It works well in the confines of a 3 1/2" centre ht lathe. You certainly do need its dedicated parting toolholder. Also, I think it prefers HSS tooling.. But the ML7 is designed around a speed of under 1000rpm so HSS tooling. Also, for the Myford you get a needle thrust bearing to go beneath the clamp nut. The 250-000 is designed around the Sieg C2/3 & Myford ML7/10 type lathes. By the way I am a very keen watcher of your Channel. I like to watch people who know what they are doing. I am looking forwards to seeing what you will do with your Mini-Lathe. Regards, Mervyn Price.
It's a joy to watch you work. Thanks for sharing 👍
Some years ago I bought the next size up for a 180 lathe. It was far too big. A couple of years ago I bought the small one like you have there. It is a bit small, but works well and I like it. If only there was an in-betweeny.
I have another 180 lathe with a Dickson QCTP. For the work I do, I prefer the small wedge to the Dickson.
Happy New Year Ade. I fitted the 250.111 and use 12mm tools to my WM180. Very pleased with it.
Did it require any modification?
@@Festivejelly From memory, I think the only mod I had to do was remake and thread the mounting stud. Sorry I don’t remember why but I’m sure it will be obvious. It’s worked perfectly to date.
Worrying about the register isn’t really that important. As long as the stem fits the stud without too much slop, it’s fine. After all, for most lathes, large and small, that’s how it works. The bottom of the post just rides on the top flat of the compound rest. If the lathe is halfway decently machined, that should be properly parallel to the ways in both directions, and all is fine. Maybe a round version that bottom plate that doesn’t project beyond the post would be better to allow the holders to drop slightly below the bottom of the post.
The Warco stud is just a stud from a mill clamping set.
And congratulations on 11k subscribers.
Happy new year to you Ade. Yes the 250-000 is perfect for the mini lathe, got on myself. really needs to be a 250-100 on the Warco 180 to get the most out of it, I have a feeling he's gong to be a bit disappointed after a bit that he didn't go for the bigger tool post. But we all live and learn, and know for next time. Ask me how I know.
Gday Ade, I’d forgot you had the mini lathe, the QCTP looked to be very well finished off, I can see yours coming out of retirement soon,
I just got the 250-000 for my bv20. Looks small but the 250-111 (or 100) was a tad too big. With the 000 it’s better suited centre height and the 10mm stud has no slop. If I’d got the 111 the stud would need machining down from m14 to m10 to work with the hole in the compound slide.
Thanks for showing this Ade, very much appreciated. I have the WM180 and was looking at the warco one. Luckily they are out of stock and the price is ridiculous. Thanks again.
Fitted one of these to my Myford ML7 and it worked perfectly and was very good value for money.
The 000 gib type post worked extremely well on the mini lathe.
Moved on from the mimi lathe now, but I would definitely recommend for that purposes.
Great video Ade, thanks for sharing.
I have the same one for my mini lathe and it works fine, just the right size. Cheers.
Thanks Ade
001 is what you need on the 180, but yes, nice tool post, I had one on my 9x20 lathe.
Great stuff Ade. Happy New Year. Thanks for a year of great content. Looking forward to seeing what you do in 22.
Those import toolposts are quite nice, and a much cheaper alternative to their American brethren 😊.
Had to modify mine as well to accommodate my old Atlas compound but it sure beats the old lantern style that came with it, however, I do revert back to it from time to time 😁. Hope you had a merry one and a Happy 2022 to you!
Cheers! 👍😁👍
Great work Ade always good when you can help out a subscriber. Just a word of warning for whom ever this is intended for I did original use the exact same QCTP as this one with the same stud and after a few days of use with some heavy cuts it actual broke the register of of my compound. On inspecting it I put it down to the threads not being longer enough to fully wind into the compound so just be cautious probably ok for light work.
Good Shout Joe . I will make a longer stud before posting it off . Thanks for the Info . Cheers Ade.
@@ade63dug well done Ade I’m sure that you I’ll make someone very happy. Happy new year to you. Look forward to what your going to do with that currently sad look mini lathe. All the best
Glad you mentioned this, as i did notice the threads was not long enough but thought nothing of it,
Luckily I changed Tool post to a T37 type before I came across the same problem.
This is why RUclips channels are a good source for knowledge
IF one reads The Comments :)
@@spudnickuk Yeah wouldn’t want anyone to make the same mistake as me and your right RUclips is a great platform for gaining knowledge.
Definitely should have gone for the next size up…
Just a quick question….why is a SPRING PASS so called?
Cheers
Hi John . It is used more often when boring holes where the tool size cant be as rigid as when turning outside diameters. To tool deflects or springs away from the work piece under load . the spring pass is taken to allow the light load to cut the material not cut due to the spring or deflection . Or, it could be a cut taken in the season before summer, lol. Cheers Ade.
AIDS Workshop no a Sunday morning! What a treat!
Very nice Mate
Nicely done Ade, you defo need the spanner flats had to do that with mine, not this holder a bigger one but had to be modded! TFS, GB :)
Happy new year
Hi Ade. I fitted a 250-111 to my myford super 7B. The toolpost is 55mm square. The next size up from the one you have done. The holders are bigger too. I did a video of it. I also made some more holders & made the slots a little bigger. Around 15mm square. If you need any dims i can measure for you.
Regards & HNY Steve.
Since the plate really doesn't do anything to help keep the QCTP centered on the stud, making sure the hole is a tight fit isn't important.
Now, switch to a 3 jaw chuck and bore out that hole since that is the chuck everyone will get with their lathe. ;-D
What is the whole idea about 4 jaws independent chuck? I have same lathe and a same spare chuck but never used it, it takes time to centre it... Why is self entering one not supplied with the lathe? Thanks
Ade, another good video, just one question I've been meaning to ask for a while, why have you got an electric power feed.
The lathe does not have a feed gearbox , to change the feed rate you need to change the gear ratio in the screw cutting drive train. takes ages . with the electric feed driving the leadscrew I can change the feed rate during a cut or at any time . I can now also reverse the feed . I now run the lathe with the banjo disconnected and I can easily reconnect for cutting threads . Cheers Ade.
Thanks ADE
i have a seig c4 and if i use a bigger tool post i cant use 12 mm tools , the holders on these have a thin support on the bottom edge, i only use a 1.5 mm releived floating spacer to alow claming forces to actvthrough the outer diameter of the base. i have even used 20 mm shank, cutters with dovetail machined on them and height adjuster soldered on, but whed turning upside down thes are only held on by the toolpost grip and i havent had one slip yet. I do try to minimise stick out on such a tool, but the tool post does not interfere with your cut an you are clear of your slide( i filled about 6mm off one corner, and might be using a relocated mounting hole, again to minimise stick out)
Nice work.
I have the same tool post on my Mini Lathe Ade, and it works perfect with 8 and 10 mm tooling, But there is no need for the bottom plate. Mines a 7 by 14 mini lathe.
hello from spain...this quick change is very short for your lathe...your lathe + quick change more big is good for 16mm tools.
Why don't use an AXA 250 111 tool post instead?
👍
Great vid Ade.
Yep 250-100 is the go.
Works perfectly on my Chester DB10. (Same as Warco WM240/280? I think?)
Probs a bit big for the WM180 though tool height wise.
Morning Ade, nicely done !
Did the same mod on my little Zyto lathe tool post 😊
Do I smell automation ????
Hi Ade,
Arc euro trade sells that qctp
good evening Ade I have the 250 000 on my mini lathe works great best thing I bought for it ps did you find that email
Tell the owner of the tool post to remove the Allen head grub screws in the tool holders and throw them into the scrap bin. The quality is miserable. Buy some European or American screws and save your self from having to learn some new curse words when one of the hex heads split out and you can't unscrew it to remove the tool.
To much jacking around for a 30 dollar tool holder, just spend the 90 dollars and get one that fits.
Nicely done Ade, your new camera makes it all look far bigger than it is in reality lol. The bottom thickness of the cartridge looks a bit weedy, I think I would be tempted to make some dedicated ones where adjustments weren't really required (lose some scope) and beef the bottom face up a bit! Looking forward to the mini lathe project. Cheers, Jon