Bro, I've been a playing pro since '86. Thank you so much, I have never seen this technique before. I literally just unboxed a new fender strat and I had seen this video the day before. I did exactly what you demonstrated and it works like a charm. I I cannot believe that I've never heard of this. I went to floyd rose trems specifically because of this problem. Thanks again bro. Happy holidays. Cheers😊
Thanks for this! I just got a strat after a decade of not owning one, and completely forgot how to use the tremolo. This is super helpful! Great strat, btw!
oh my god man, ive had an ibanez AZ since 2018 and i could never keep the bastard in tune when using the trem, i did your pull up method, and not only does it work but it doesnt go out of tune with diving either now, thank you so much this info is incredibly useful
Dude... loved this. I am not kind on my bends, and my Charvel DK24 2p would always go out of tune after a deep bend, and I could reset it with a quick dive with the whammy, but that's no fun in the middle of playing. "Training" the trem by tuning, pulling up, pulling, tuning allows me to bend the shit out of any string and not have it go out of tune... even works when diving a little. Tuning is MUCH more stable now... Thanks!
Thanks for this! I'm a new player and I've never been sure if my strat should return 100% to tune after using the trem. SO MANY sources say it should, most suggesting that you must have a problem with your nut if it doesn't come perfectly back to tune. I deck mine and and I would typically "pre stretch" the strings before tuning the guitar (by bending each one). Doing this with a decked trem is obviously a recipe for failure according to your video... So it appears you may have solved my problem - "train" my trem, and DO NOT stretch the strings before tuning, and then just use a little bump/bomb on the trem periodically to reset the tuning after I've been bending. Thanks!
This was great. I have a vintage strat (decked) and was continually frustrated (after several professional set-ups). I recently purchased a Suhr with the Gotoh 510 (floating) and the Tuning Stability and return-to-pitch is Phenomenal. I also use Nut Sauce on the saddles & string trees. I also heard that Raw Vintage springs - make the tremolo system even smoother?
Cool! Thanks for the feedback! Some lubrication might help get things even more stable etc. but generally things should be pretty stable for dives or up pulls (not both) after following these steps. Rock on 🙌
Great Tips o. I use the 'flatter' technic to tune my Strat. Just flatter the bar and tune. Same way lke you tune the up bending methode or, down bending methode, just use the flatter instead. Well wishings o
I just want to say thanks again!!! OMG!!..... I've been beating the shit out of the trem bar and it's SOLID! I made a few other adjustments also, and lubed every contact point but yeah...... I have changed my mind about putting a Floyd on this guitar
Great video, and you answered my question about non-floating trems. This reminds me of how you have to tune a pedal steel....you tune the strings to pitch with no pedals depressed, then you have to tune it to pitch with the pedals/levers engaged. Same principle as with the tremolo, it seems.
Totally get how divebombing the trem can sort an issue out, but 2 things... 1. You shouldn't be going out of tune in the first place with bends. So look to the root cause (string wrap, nut, saddle, friction points. 2. I've also learned that to stay in tune a Strat needs 3 things, after you've sorted any issue. 1. Ample Stretching 2. Divebomb the trem till it settles in. 3. Give the whole thing time to settle in. After that, all should be fine.
Thanks for this. You can minimise the problems by minimising friction (with lubrication etc.) but full dive bomb to floppy strings and big conventional string bends tend not to be compatible with each other unless you know what you are doing on real world instruments.
Good vid. I prefer mine decked, and although your method works, I have used a different technique. I simply know what strings will come back sharp and either do a quick ghost bend, or bend them in licks or solos before returning to a chord. Works like a charm and is more practical if you don't want to hit the bar after every bend.
Great method, works perfectly on my 6-point trem, BUT doesn't work at all with my 2-point trem on another strat, it's ridiculous! I can't solve this and don't know what to think, tremolo doesn't return in its place. Goes flat when I divebomb and goes sharp when I bend the trem...
I’m glad it’s working on the 6 point trem for you. Is the 2 point floating? What gauge strings are you using ? Any clicking during tuning? Is it a standard trem block? It’s worth checking that everything is low friction in terms of the nut and saddles and bridge plate etc. and check the bridge plate and trem posts for wear.
@@KempStrings The 2 point is floating, I use 9-42 in E standard, and there is no clicking or friction. The guitar is new classic player series strat, I owned it only week ago :) So it's standard 2 point trem
@@Inventing_Decibels That’s strange. It may be worth getting a set up (making sure that the posts are at the correct height) or checking if there are rough bits on the bridge plate or the knots on the balk ends getting stuck at the bridge plate. Certainly a 2 point should be just as good as 6 point for this technique of keeping the trem in tune (if not better).
@@KempStrings it seems there was not enough lubricant between the pivots and the tremolo plate, solved the problem with luthier today :) however, never thought it would affect sooo bad. Anyway, sorry for interruption and thank you for providing so useful method!
Nice! But you could just use something like “Muc-Off Dry Chain Lube, 120 Millilitres - Biodegradable Bike Chain Lubricant” on all the string contact points. If you don’t mind spending 💰 use “Big Bends - Nut Sauce!” Works great too, although a little pricey for what you get. Using any of these usually eliminates the need for the “pull or dip trem setting tricks.” Of course make sure the nut, trem & string brake angle is set correctly. (Using a roller string tree or even better staggered tuners help)
Kemp Strings If that’s the case then I would recommend trying the other steps too. Even the most vintage of Strat’s (If all things are done correctly) should hold their tuning. My guess is there could be something amiss in its setup.
@@jazznotes3802 I'm talking about small margins in tuning over huge trem moves (full dive bombs to slack strings). There's always a tiny bit of friction plus the steel has to be bent and unbent. If you can get a Strat bending up three semitones on trem and return then measure pitch, then full dive bomb to strings hanging off and return and measure the pitch and have the two pitches exactly the same make a video of that and post the link here!
Kemp Strings ruclips.net/video/llhHFmjHD24/видео.html. This is with a brass nut, standard string tree + tuners (non-locking) and vintage strat trem. He uses “Bike chain lubricant as his secret weapon!” Edit: Just got a new Charvel DK24 and this thing stays it tune straight out the box, with dive bombs, flutters the lot. If I go crazy on the bar and check it with a tuner, it’s almost spot on with every string. To the ear it’s sounds perfectly in tune and I’ve not even applied any lubricant yet. Awesome 🎸.
Training your trem by pulling up on the trem and retuning essentially does the same thing as doing conventional bends and retuning or “pre-stretch”. If you do pre-stretch or conventional bends and retune then subsequent pull up in the bar will be fine for tuning. If you do a dive bomb then pulling up on the bar afterwards should reset the tuning. Does that answer your question?
Why does this work? It makes sense with a brand new strat, because maybe the springs stretch a bit, but I don't understand fully. It does seem to work well though. Thank you.
Great to hear about another trem liberated! It works because there is a small amount of friction and the angle between the sounding length and the trem block is large (compared to say the break angle at the nut). When you do an up bend the string is given slightly larger tension between trem block and saddle. When you do a dive bomb the string is given slightly lower tension between trem block and saddle. The result is a slight difference in tension in the main string due to the string coming to rest in a very slightly different place on the saddle.
@@KempStrings ahh I see. That actually does make sense. I don't normally consider the angle of the string and how that could effect tension and tuning. I constantly think about tension, especially when I'm fixing intonation and all that. But I don't have a lot of experience with floating bridges. So it makes sense that a slight difference in angle could make a difference in tension. Actually makes a lot of sense. I think I'm going to check out your strings, btw. It's very interesting that you were able to design strings that can evenly change pitch like that. Very, very cool.
@@Casey3-P-O Great, thanks! In a telecaster type bridge the same thing happens when you bend strings up but you can’t bend them down again so you don’t have to think about it again after they are “stretched”.
@@KempStrings yea that actually makes a lot of sense with the way the saddles are on a classic tele bridge. Because there's no crevice for the string to place itself in. It sort of just lays over the round saddle. Thanks for the info, man. I'm trying to build up as much knowledge as I can about guitar set up, that way I won't have to pay for it to be done in the future. It's extremely valuable to know not only how to play your instrument, but how it's made and how it works in general.
@@KempStrings Thanks for the video. I've had this same issue with all of my guitars. My question is if the issue is because the string now rests differently on the saddle, why doesn't lubricant correct the issue? I've used everything from oil, graphite oil, graphite synthetic grease on all points of contact. I've also removed the nut and all other strings from the equation along with testing out several brands of locking tuner. I've also tried WIlkinson locking saddles. Interestingly the string can be brought back in tune exactly how you've described, reset the trem, or bend a note just a hair. Would love to pick your brain on this some more! I will say, it seems to have subsided with one of my guitars(PRS S2) but has really become a problem with my 28" scale Baritone(with Gotoh trem).
Great Tipp. All the time I don`t need a trem and fixed it with 5 springs to have no function for up and down bombs .I have a Jeff Beck Strat and now i need a floating Trem for one song (Satrianis Highway Star Intro). I`m looking since 2 days for a tipp for an stabil tuning. The g-string goes after up and dive bomb to gis and more. Maybe I have luck with your info. Thanks a lot and sorry for my bad englisch
This must be most genuinely convincing and helpful tip for the ever popular problem. So you think, physics wise, it's impossible to have a non locking tremolo stable used both directions? (tbh I feel like even FR is a bit less stable used upwards, at least mine)
Yes, it’s possible to get pretty stable tuning if you are gentle with the bar and be very low friction at point of contact but training your trem will always be beneficial no matter how much you lubricated stuff etc. in practical terms, particularly if you use the bar for big bends.
Hi. Shouldn't strings stay in tune after conventional one string bends on fingerboard when tremolo is docked? I thought that this issue was only with floating tremolos?
If the trem has the springs tightened enough so the bridge stays still during a conventional pitch bend then repeated conventional bending and tuning results in a stable performance if you don’t move the trem (and this is similar to training for pull ups). If you choose to move the trem arm to dive bomb then the tuning will go out. If you train for dive bombs then conventional bends will put the tubing out and a dive bomb will reset in tune.
Haha. It’s a Fender FT-004 tuner. I could fit a Raspberry Pi into a pack maybe and do all sorts of things with it but m not sure about cooling. I wouldn’t want it lit. That would a different sort of video.
@@blinkz0rz519 This video is of a Strat with a conventional standard Strat bridge (not a Floyd Rose). The bridge is set up to float (sitting slightly up from the body when in tune), hence it can be pulled up as well as down.
@@Sunnatism lubrication of the pivots can help. Floyd Rose bridges shouldn’t require fancy techniques to keep them in tune if all is in good condition.
Tremolos should always be floating. That’s how they’ve been designed to operate and really is the whole point? What your demonstrating is what always happens - the string binds in the nut and stays sharp after depressing the bar. Pulling up on the bar simply pulls the string back through the nut? As you say tuning on guitars is imprecise and even locking tremolos aren’t always perfectly in tune all of the time in my experience (strings stretch and kink). Floyd rose and other locking units look awful and lack the sensitivity of a traditional fender tremolo. Your method does seem to work. I think cutting and filing the nut slots properly and lubricating contact points is also super critical.
The problem we notice isn't just due to the nut. If you have a locking nut and conventional strat bridge then the tuning problem remains. On the other hand if you have a well made conventional nut and locking bridge (like on Guthrie Govan's Charvel for instance) then you get much improved tuning stability. The break angle is much larger at the bridge than at the nut and that's why the strat bridge needs careful use even if all contact points are well lubraicated etc.
@@KempStrings How interesting. Your method works very well. Why do you think that is? I have a Kramer Baretta from the 1980s with a locking nut and a Floyd Rose bridge. It’s fairly stable and stays in tune quite well, certainly when you check the tuning by ear. If you check it with a tuner though it’s not 100% perfect. It might be 1 cent off here or there. That seems to have become more of a problem as the guitar has aged. Maybe it’s just wear and tear or corrosion. I prefer the traditional Strat tremolo these days. It just seems more sensitive to touch. Floyd Rose tremolos just have a heavier more remote feel to me and look utterly horrible.
@@donharrold1375 The method works because when you bend or pull up the bar the string gets slightly higher tension between saddle and ball end. After you release the tension on the sounding length, some of the raised tension remains behind the saddle (due to the capstan equation). Training the trem to have that higher tension behind the bridge gives you predictable tuning.
@@KempStrings Makes sense, you are effectively tensioning the string between the ball end and saddle when you pull up on the bar and then friction holds the tension in that section of the string when you release it, reducing the potential for detuning. I do wonder why Fender or PRS don’t just introduce locking saddles? Patent infringement maybe.
@@donharrold1375 They have done locking designs sometimes, including some interesting locking saddles Strat Plus once upon a time. Google “bridge from hell strat plus deluxe” for instance!
Well... I've owned a Fender Stratocaster for about 15 years, and the last thing I want to do in the middle of a song is pull the trem up or down after using it. I've come to the conclusion that Fender trems just suck. Never had this problem with a Floyd Rose. I usually stick to my Gibson Les Paul. My next trick is to ditch the Rollernut and find a nut that might help.
@@flyonwall360 Yes, Floyd Rose definitely largely solves this. If you’re happy with FR then all good. With Les Paul it’s a good idea to bend strings and retune repeatedly until it’s stable before playing for similar reasons (as you may know).
MegaBrebis It depends. You don’t have to have the strings sounding when you do the pull up. Also, it isn’t necessary to do a pull up at all unless you have just done a fairly big dive (assuming everything is in good condition and lubricated). Floyd or hard tail are easier to deal with for tuning of course, but there are a lot of Strats in the world and they have a lot of charm!
Nicholas Fanzo Hi. So x point trem and two point trem are the same in this regard. You can unscrew the middle four screws a little if you like. The only real difference is that vintage trems often have shallow trem block holes making the difference between pull up and dive more accentuated. See my post at kempstrings.com/tuning-and-trem-block-hole-depth/
Hi there. Great video. Only a comment on this if you let me: Just be carefull with the "pull up method" if you use only the 2 outer screws for pivoting (w/middle four lightly above the plate).....the one next to the high E may come out 1mm. or so out of its thread after a few days. (Yep.....). Use all 6 carefully adjusted and you'll be fine, or go with the Frudua way, wich is also great for floating. (Have to pull down the bar very often, but returns to almost Perfect pitch every time). Cheers!!
I stopped watching after 2 minutes because he pulls the bar in one direction, tunes it, then pulls the bar the other way, tunes it back how it was...Herman Li showed this, all you have to do is pull the bar slightly further in the other direction to "reset" it and keep it in tune, or bend the strings which basically does the same thing of pulling on the trem. Best trem training technique.
![FORTNITE CLASSICS IS BACK! Fortnite Item Shop [November 15th, 2024] (Fortnite Chapter 5)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RbQURbeFwqs/mqdefault.jpg)
Bro, I've been a playing pro since '86. Thank you so much, I have never seen this technique before. I literally just unboxed a new fender strat and I had seen this video the day before. I did exactly what you demonstrated and it works like a charm. I I cannot believe that I've never heard of this. I went to floyd rose trems specifically because of this problem. Thanks again bro. Happy holidays. Cheers😊
Thanks, I’m delighted to have helped liberate another trem!
Thanks for this! I just got a strat after a decade of not owning one, and completely forgot how to use the tremolo. This is super helpful! Great strat, btw!
Thanks Adam! Mine is a Fender 10 for 15 Oiled Ash Strat.
Man, this worked like a charm! Thanks so much for posting this 5 years ago! Ha! Seriously, awesome though!
@@ryanlake1594 Thanks! That’s great to hear! Another trem liberated! 🤘
oh my god man, ive had an ibanez AZ since 2018 and i could never keep the bastard in tune when using the trem, i did your pull up method, and not only does it work but it doesnt go out of tune with diving either now, thank you so much this info is incredibly useful
Excellent! Another trem liberated! Thanks!
Dude... loved this. I am not kind on my bends, and my Charvel DK24 2p would always go out of tune after a deep bend, and I could reset it with a quick dive with the whammy, but that's no fun in the middle of playing. "Training" the trem by tuning, pulling up, pulling, tuning allows me to bend the shit out of any string and not have it go out of tune... even works when diving a little. Tuning is MUCH more stable now... Thanks!
Excellent, you’ve made my day! Another trem liberated!
Thank you very much, this technique worked great, I only wish I would have known about it a decade ago! 👍🤙
@@oriononthehorizon5018 Thanks, great to hear about another trem liberated! 😊
Thanks for this! I'm a new player and I've never been sure if my strat should return 100% to tune after using the trem. SO MANY sources say it should, most suggesting that you must have a problem with your nut if it doesn't come perfectly back to tune. I deck mine and and I would typically "pre stretch" the strings before tuning the guitar (by bending each one). Doing this with a decked trem is obviously a recipe for failure according to your video... So it appears you may have solved my problem - "train" my trem, and DO NOT stretch the strings before tuning, and then just use a little bump/bomb on the trem periodically to reset the tuning after I've been bending. Thanks!
Yes, I’m glad this works for you. Another trem liberated 😀
This was great. I have a vintage strat (decked) and was continually frustrated (after several professional set-ups). I recently purchased a Suhr with the Gotoh 510 (floating) and the Tuning Stability and return-to-pitch is Phenomenal. I also use Nut Sauce on the saddles & string trees. I also heard that Raw Vintage springs - make the tremolo system even smoother?
Works a treat!! Been playing since 1988 never knew this,thankyou 😎
markplenty Thanks! I’m pleased I helped you to liberate your trem!
Great vid. Got a decked trem and like you say, G goes sharp on over 2 semitone bends. The divebomb sorts it.
Thanks, I’m glad you like the video and know how to reset in tune!
This video is a life saver! Tho the dive down thing gets the guitar out of tune a little, but i can live with it for now. Thank you so very much :)
Cool! Thanks for the feedback! Some lubrication might help get things even more stable etc. but generally things should be pretty stable for dives or up pulls (not both) after following these steps. Rock on 🙌
Great Tips o. I use the 'flatter' technic to tune my Strat. Just flatter the bar and tune. Same way lke you tune the up bending methode or, down bending methode, just use the flatter instead. Well wishings o
I just want to say thanks again!!! OMG!!..... I've been beating the shit out of the trem bar and it's SOLID! I made a few other adjustments also, and lubed every contact point but yeah...... I have changed my mind about putting a Floyd on this guitar
Excellent! It’s put a smile on my face to think another trem has been liberated!
Great video, and you answered my question about non-floating trems. This reminds me of how you have to tune a pedal steel....you tune the strings to pitch with no pedals depressed, then you have to tune it to pitch with the pedals/levers engaged. Same principle as with the tremolo, it seems.
Delighted to help! I’ve not played a pedal steel but it sounds fun!
Delighted to help! I’ve not played a pedal steel but it sounds fun!
@@KempStrings I haven't played mine in years, but they definitely are fun!
Totally get how divebombing the trem can sort an issue out, but 2 things...
1. You shouldn't be going out of tune in the first place with bends. So look to the root cause (string wrap, nut, saddle, friction points.
2. I've also learned that to stay in tune a Strat needs 3 things, after you've sorted any issue. 1. Ample Stretching 2. Divebomb the trem till it settles in. 3. Give the whole thing time to settle in.
After that, all should be fine.
Thanks for this. You can minimise the problems by minimising friction (with lubrication etc.) but full dive bomb to floppy strings and big conventional string bends tend not to be compatible with each other unless you know what you are doing on real world instruments.
Good vid. I prefer mine decked, and although your method works, I have used a different technique. I simply know what strings will come back sharp and either do a quick ghost bend, or bend them in licks or solos before returning to a chord. Works like a charm and is more practical if you don't want to hit the bar after every bend.
Thanks! Yes, that works and more people need to know about that technique too.
Great method, works perfectly on my 6-point trem, BUT doesn't work at all with my 2-point trem on another strat, it's ridiculous! I can't solve this and don't know what to think, tremolo doesn't return in its place. Goes flat when I divebomb and goes sharp when I bend the trem...
I’m glad it’s working on the 6 point trem for you. Is the 2 point floating? What gauge strings are you using ? Any clicking during tuning? Is it a standard trem block? It’s worth checking that everything is low friction in terms of the nut and saddles and bridge plate etc. and check the bridge plate and trem posts for wear.
@@KempStrings The 2 point is floating, I use 9-42 in E standard, and there is no clicking or friction. The guitar is new classic player series strat, I owned it only week ago :) So it's standard 2 point trem
@@Inventing_Decibels That’s strange. It may be worth getting a set up (making sure that the posts are at the correct height) or checking if there are rough bits on the bridge plate or the knots on the balk ends getting stuck at the bridge plate. Certainly a 2 point should be just as good as 6 point for this technique of keeping the trem in tune (if not better).
@@KempStrings it seems there was not enough lubricant between the pivots and the tremolo plate, solved the problem with luthier today :) however, never thought it would affect sooo bad. Anyway, sorry for interruption and thank you for providing so useful method!
@@Inventing_Decibels Awesome! Another trem liberated! 😎
Nice! But you could just use something like “Muc-Off Dry Chain Lube, 120 Millilitres - Biodegradable Bike Chain Lubricant” on all the string contact points.
If you don’t mind spending 💰 use “Big Bends - Nut Sauce!” Works great too, although a little pricey for what you get. Using any of these usually eliminates the need for the “pull or dip trem setting tricks.” Of course make sure the nut, trem & string brake angle is set correctly. (Using a roller string tree or even better staggered tuners help)
Jazz Notes Thanks for the comment. I’ve tried Big Bends Nut Sauce and it helps but some pitch difference remains in my experience.
Kemp Strings If that’s the case then I would recommend trying the other steps too. Even the most vintage of Strat’s (If all things are done correctly) should hold their tuning.
My guess is there could be something amiss in its setup.
@@jazznotes3802 I'm talking about small margins in tuning over huge trem moves (full dive bombs to slack strings). There's always a tiny bit of friction plus the steel has to be bent and unbent. If you can get a Strat bending up three semitones on trem and return then measure pitch, then full dive bomb to strings hanging off and return and measure the pitch and have the two pitches exactly the same make a video of that and post the link here!
Kemp Strings ruclips.net/video/llhHFmjHD24/видео.html. This is with a brass nut, standard string tree + tuners (non-locking) and vintage strat trem. He uses “Bike chain lubricant as his secret weapon!”
Edit: Just got a new Charvel DK24 and this thing stays it tune straight out the box, with dive bombs, flutters the lot.
If I go crazy on the bar and check it with a tuner, it’s almost spot on with every string. To the ear it’s sounds perfectly in tune and I’ve not even applied any lubricant yet.
Awesome 🎸.
@@KempStrings who names something nut sauce think about that name in your head😂
thank you sir.
You’re welcome!
Hello, I might have missed this, but do you advise against pre-stretch if I use your method? Awesome video by the way!!!
Training your trem by pulling up on the trem and retuning essentially does the same thing as doing conventional bends and retuning or “pre-stretch”. If you do pre-stretch or conventional bends and retune then subsequent pull up in the bar will be fine for tuning. If you do a dive bomb then pulling up on the bar afterwards should reset the tuning. Does that answer your question?
@KempStrings it does :) Thank you very much for answering this
This was very helpful! I'm going to test it out
Michael Kaltenbrunner Great! Do comment here to say how you get on. 👍
@@KempStrings It worked like a charm! Thanks for the advice
Michael Kaltenbrunner Excellent!
Why does this work? It makes sense with a brand new strat, because maybe the springs stretch a bit, but I don't understand fully. It does seem to work well though. Thank you.
Great to hear about another trem liberated! It works because there is a small amount of friction and the angle between the sounding length and the trem block is large (compared to say the break angle at the nut). When you do an up bend the string is given slightly larger tension between trem block and saddle. When you do a dive bomb the string is given slightly lower tension between trem block and saddle. The result is a slight difference in tension in the main string due to the string coming to rest in a very slightly different place on the saddle.
@@KempStrings ahh I see. That actually does make sense. I don't normally consider the angle of the string and how that could effect tension and tuning. I constantly think about tension, especially when I'm fixing intonation and all that. But I don't have a lot of experience with floating bridges. So it makes sense that a slight difference in angle could make a difference in tension. Actually makes a lot of sense.
I think I'm going to check out your strings, btw. It's very interesting that you were able to design strings that can evenly change pitch like that. Very, very cool.
@@Casey3-P-O Great, thanks! In a telecaster type bridge the same thing happens when you bend strings up but you can’t bend them down again so you don’t have to think about it again after they are “stretched”.
@@KempStrings yea that actually makes a lot of sense with the way the saddles are on a classic tele bridge. Because there's no crevice for the string to place itself in. It sort of just lays over the round saddle. Thanks for the info, man. I'm trying to build up as much knowledge as I can about guitar set up, that way I won't have to pay for it to be done in the future. It's extremely valuable to know not only how to play your instrument, but how it's made and how it works in general.
@@KempStrings Thanks for the video. I've had this same issue with all of my guitars. My question is if the issue is because the string now rests differently on the saddle, why doesn't lubricant correct the issue? I've used everything from oil, graphite oil, graphite synthetic grease on all points of contact. I've also removed the nut and all other strings from the equation along with testing out several brands of locking tuner. I've also tried WIlkinson locking saddles. Interestingly the string can be brought back in tune exactly how you've described, reset the trem, or bend a note just a hair. Would love to pick your brain on this some more! I will say, it seems to have subsided with one of my guitars(PRS S2) but has really become a problem with my 28" scale Baritone(with Gotoh trem).
Great Tipp. All the time I don`t need a trem and fixed it with 5 springs to have no function for up and down bombs .I have a Jeff Beck Strat and now i need a floating Trem for one song (Satrianis Highway Star Intro). I`m looking since 2 days for a tipp for an stabil tuning. The g-string goes after up and dive bomb to gis and more. Maybe I have luck with your info. Thanks a lot and sorry for my bad englisch
Thanks! Good luck with liberating your trem!
This must be most genuinely convincing and helpful tip for the ever popular problem. So you think, physics wise, it's impossible to have a non locking tremolo stable used both directions? (tbh I feel like even FR is a bit less stable used upwards, at least mine)
Yes, it’s possible to get pretty stable tuning if you are gentle with the bar and be very low friction at point of contact but training your trem will always be beneficial no matter how much you lubricated stuff etc. in practical terms, particularly if you use the bar for big bends.
@@KempStrings I was thinking more of a wanton divebombery than gentle use :)
@@ZeeKat This is the way
Hi. Shouldn't strings stay in tune after conventional one string bends on fingerboard when tremolo is docked? I thought that this issue was only with floating tremolos?
If the trem has the springs tightened enough so the bridge stays still during a conventional pitch bend then repeated conventional bending and tuning results in a stable performance if you don’t move the trem (and this is similar to training for pull ups). If you choose to move the trem arm to dive bomb then the tuning will go out. If you train for dive bombs then conventional bends will put the tubing out and a dive bomb will reset in tune.
What's more impressive is you're tuning your guitar with a pack of Parliament Lights
Haha. It’s a Fender FT-004 tuner. I could fit a Raspberry Pi into a pack maybe and do all sorts of things with it but m not sure about cooling. I wouldn’t want it lit. That would a different sort of video.
Thank you!
Ryan Schultz You’re welcome!
Your playing is frigging awesome! Does this tuning routine work for a floyd type tremolo?
it is a floyd type since he can pull the bar down or up.
This tuning routine shouldn’t be necessary for a Floyd Rose as the string shouldn’t slip across the saddle on a Floyd.
@@blinkz0rz519 This video is of a Strat with a conventional standard Strat bridge (not a Floyd Rose). The bridge is set up to float (sitting slightly up from the body when in tune), hence it can be pulled up as well as down.
@@KempStrings is there any fancy and a non-conventional way to improve the tuning stability on a floyd rose?
@@Sunnatism lubrication of the pivots can help. Floyd Rose bridges shouldn’t require fancy techniques to keep them in tune if all is in good condition.
The more you learn about tuning the more you realize its amazing how close if not dead on these things come back into tune.
Tremolos should always be floating. That’s how they’ve been designed to operate and really is the whole point? What your demonstrating is what always happens - the string binds in the nut and stays sharp after depressing the bar. Pulling up on the bar simply pulls the string back through the nut? As you say tuning on guitars is imprecise and even locking tremolos aren’t always perfectly in tune all of the time in my experience (strings stretch and kink). Floyd rose and other locking units look awful and lack the sensitivity of a traditional fender tremolo. Your method does seem to work. I think cutting and filing the nut slots properly and lubricating contact points is also super critical.
The problem we notice isn't just due to the nut. If you have a locking nut and conventional strat bridge then the tuning problem remains. On the other hand if you have a well made conventional nut and locking bridge (like on Guthrie Govan's Charvel for instance) then you get much improved tuning stability. The break angle is much larger at the bridge than at the nut and that's why the strat bridge needs careful use even if all contact points are well lubraicated etc.
@@KempStrings How interesting. Your method works very well. Why do you think that is? I have a Kramer Baretta from the 1980s with a locking nut and a Floyd Rose bridge. It’s fairly stable and stays in tune quite well, certainly when you check the tuning by ear. If you check it with a tuner though it’s not 100% perfect. It might be 1 cent off here or there. That seems to have become more of a problem as the guitar has aged. Maybe it’s just wear and tear or corrosion. I prefer the traditional Strat tremolo these days. It just seems more sensitive to touch. Floyd Rose tremolos just have a heavier more remote feel to me and look utterly horrible.
@@donharrold1375 The method works because when you bend or pull up the bar the string gets slightly higher tension between saddle and ball end. After you release the tension on the sounding length, some of the raised tension remains behind the saddle (due to the capstan equation). Training the trem to have that higher tension behind the bridge gives you predictable tuning.
@@KempStrings Makes sense, you are effectively tensioning the string between the ball end and saddle when you pull up on the bar and then friction holds the tension in that section of the string when you release it, reducing the potential for detuning. I do wonder why Fender or PRS don’t just introduce locking saddles? Patent infringement maybe.
@@donharrold1375 They have done locking designs sometimes, including some interesting locking saddles Strat Plus once upon a time. Google “bridge from hell strat plus deluxe” for instance!
Legend, thank you 😂
No problem! Another trem liberated?
Well... I've owned a Fender Stratocaster for about 15 years, and the last thing I want to do in the middle of a song is pull the trem up or down after using it. I've come to the conclusion that Fender trems just suck. Never had this problem with a Floyd Rose. I usually stick to my Gibson Les Paul. My next trick is to ditch the Rollernut and find a nut that might help.
@@flyonwall360 Yes, Floyd Rose definitely largely solves this. If you’re happy with FR then all good. With Les Paul it’s a good idea to bend strings and retune repeatedly until it’s stable before playing for similar reasons (as you may know).
But if you have to pull the trem up every time you finish using it, then it's not convenient and musical is it?
MegaBrebis It depends. You don’t have to have the strings sounding when you do the pull up. Also, it isn’t necessary to do a pull up at all unless you have just done a fairly big dive (assuming everything is in good condition and lubricated). Floyd or hard tail are easier to deal with for tuning of course, but there are a lot of Strats in the world and they have a lot of charm!
There,s always one !
No chance with this if your strings bind at the nut - usually the G string.
This video is assuming you have a well cut nut in good condition. The nut shouldn’t be a problem in a good Strat. A bit of lubrication is a good idea.
What about six point trem?
Nicholas Fanzo Hi. So x point trem and two point trem are the same in this regard. You can unscrew the middle four screws a little if you like. The only real difference is that vintage trems often have shallow trem block holes making the difference between pull up and dive more accentuated. See my post at kempstrings.com/tuning-and-trem-block-hole-depth/
Kemp Strings I set up my 1963 today and this worked perfectly
Nicholas Fanzo That’s awesome, I’m delighted to hear it!
Hi there. Great video. Only a comment on this if you let me: Just be carefull with the "pull up method" if you use only the 2 outer screws for pivoting (w/middle four lightly above the plate).....the one next to the high E may come out 1mm. or so out of its thread after a few days. (Yep.....). Use all 6 carefully adjusted and you'll be fine, or go with the Frudua way, wich is also great for floating. (Have to pull down the bar very often, but returns to almost Perfect pitch every time).
Cheers!!
Alejandro Pfanner Thanks for that info. Very useful to know.
I stopped watching after 2 minutes because he pulls the bar in one direction, tunes it, then pulls the bar the other way, tunes it back how it was...Herman Li showed this, all you have to do is pull the bar slightly further in the other direction to "reset" it and keep it in tune, or bend the strings which basically does the same thing of pulling on the trem. Best trem training technique.