It's caused by the windings on the string catching on the nut slot. As you tighten all the tension increase is between the nut and the tuner until it suddenly slips to the next wind which makes the tuning sharp. As the guy said, getting the slot cut right is the solution.
Recently switched to wound g string, and I'm never going back. Still light gauge, 10-46 but the g string is 18g wound. To me at least it sounds much better than a non-wound g string. Also seems to hold tune much better than a non-wound g. Now if you're doing crazy huge bends, this might not be for you. But for me it's not an issue
@@leftovernoise it becomes even more apparent with heavier gauge strings. I have a guitar tuned to C standard that I use 12-56 strings on but the plain 3rd they come with is horrid. So I use a wound 22 I believe. Whatever the D string in a standard 9-42 set is. Its infinitely better
All my guitars stay in tune very well. After I replace old strings, they stay in tune for days at a time. I do all my own setup and maintenance. I do my own fret work, nuts, electronics and setup / general maintenance. I think every guitarist should learn how to do all of these tasks. It takes a while to learn and become good at it but it's worthwhile and helps you discriminate when buying a new instrument going forward. Your first few goes at cutting a nut or fret levelling probably won't go to well so get a cheaper instrument to practice on. In the long run it will save you a lot of money too. Having a super well maintained instrument that never goes out of tune or has any issues is fantastic. It's satisfying when you know you are the reason it is so good. I have came across some guitars that are just garbage. No matter what you do they will never stay in tune and are just inherently bad. They are usually cheap and made out of wood that's probably better suited for furniture or floor boards. I don't mean to be rude or ignorant saying that, I'm just being honest. Knots, sap pockets and other defects are hard to mitigate. Buy one without issues is probably the best place to begin. I actually have a Les Paul that has perfect intonation across the entire fretboard. It came that way. I've check every fret with a stone tuner, it's nuts. I was told it wasn't possible but, it's the exception to the rule. The minute I picked it up I knew it was special. I've been playing for about 35 years and it's the only guitar I've ever played that is this perfect. Weird and most people won't believe it. Took it to a guy that's a jazz musician and teacher in my local area; he didn't believe me. He sat with it for about half an hour. He then left the room and came back with his early 60s Gibson and offered to trade it on the spot. I said no. He has since borrowed it a few times when doing recording work. He's a pro and a nice guy, so I trust him. Rare as hens teeth though. A good setup will often fix any issues. Tuning issues are usually nut related, start there. After that, old tuners or a wonky bridge. If not, it could be the neck is unstable. Look for structural reasons next. After that, it could just be the guitar was meant to be a table and is trying to tell you it is time to part ways.
I AGREE - Teach yourself. With so many videos on the Google-Gram you can learn just about anything. I have bought myself a proper soldering iron, and completed several pot replacements, new pick up installs, and various mods to my tele and strat. I have reached success in setting up my strat which is actually fairly easy...... once you know how. Ive had to walk away a few times when something would not go right at first. BUT, in the end SUCCESS!
I have a box of tools that I have put together over time. String action gauge, relief gauge, fretting saw, nut files and so on. I'm at a point now that I could pretty much build a guitar from scratch. Stewmac and others have great tools and videos. Books, loads of books too. I've got an old guitar under my bed that needs a new fretboard, all I need to do it is a wood blank, frets, inlay material and plastic binding. We will see what Santa brings me for Christmas :)
It is very encouraging to read your comment. Just before I bought a new guitar to start my journey, I found a broken guitar for a very low price, that came with a decent bag and stand (so was basically a free guitar). Knowing almost nothing about guitars, I also bought the junker so I could learn about it and fix it up myself. At this point, I don't own a soldering iron so I got the wiring fixed at a shop, but I plan on doing all the rest on my own, starting with changing the nut, and eventually upgrading the pickups.
So many, even “Experts”, dont really understand how to, and the order of how to adjust a guitars. This fine Gentleman is always spot on. He knows what he’s talking about.
I'm sure someone's mentioned this, but the #1 issue I encounter is guitarists who don't know the correct method for tuning. ALWAYS tune UP to pitch, NEVER down. Bring the string up to correct pitch, give it a hard bend, and repeat. It's remarkable how many people don't know this.
Exactly. Ibanez even suggests to do this. That's because the tuners we use are geared, and mechanically speaking, they're put in a stronger, much more stable position when you tune up to the pitch.
One thing you didn't mention I think is the scale length and picking strength. Depending on the gauge and these two factors, it's easier to get a string out of tune by hitting the string too hard
Had to learn to lighten up my touch. Makes a big difference. You can still be assertive with the strings in picking or strumming for dynamics but lightening up on the left hand really improved things for me and it helps lower your playing fatigue.
It's an issue with bigger frets. I personally prefer small vintage frets, and there isn't this issue with it at all. It can wear the fretboard faster though, it's okay for that relic look
A Les Paul needs to be wrestled while playing to be in tune, bending the neck and varying the pressure on the strings. My Fenders generally hold tuning for weeks to months with no problem.
Immediately subscribed. Your experience with the "blacksmith grip" is something I've been struggling with forever (20 years now). I never had anyone look at my playing under a microscope and I was so used to violin (where if you have too light a touch, your note will not ring) that I thought "Well, the frets will compensate for everything, no worries." 100's of videos and I've never heard that the way you play can affect the tuning (other than obviously somebody who does a bunch of dives and such).
I agree. "It can never truly be Intonated" - try to get: as-close-as possible. I got lucky with my Suhr (floating Gotoh 510 and Locking tuners) = incredible tuning stability and return-to-pitch, with trem-arm. My Nut is cut-right. I vote: more Ben Calhoun. Very knowledgable guy. oNe LovE from NYC
John Suhr gets them right. Of course, as the guy mentioned in the video, a guitar is not a perfectly intonated instrument and we just have to learn to accept and deal with that fact. They still sound great to me!
The trick with a standard strat trem is ensure it is not resting on the body at all but floating on a knife edge against the screws, and then it will come back into tune immediately.
I fixed this issue by switching to a custom strings gauge made by Stringjoy: String 1: .010 String 2: .0135 String 3: .018w String 4: .026w String 5: .036 String 6: .048 The wounded G string prevents it from bending too hard then untuning, really life changing especially when recording in studio :)
I can't speak on electric guitars but for a acoustic "HUMIDITY" is a huge factor get yourself a dehumidifier and a humidifier unless you are in a state that doesn't experience all four seasons..
To be fair if you are using alot of tremolo on your guitar they can help quite a bit, for example if you dive the bar down and you have a pile of winds on the tuning peg the winds will unravel a little bit but they wont always fully return to how they originally where, where as in theory anyway a set of locking keys can remedy this by massively cutting down on the number of winds on the pegs
It's not ALL in the nut, but most of it is. And most guitars today have plastic nuts -- which are virtually impossible to correct because the plastic is relatively soft.
A better way to set intonation (which is an APPROXIMATION on any/every guitar (except those weird bent fret guitars)) is this: Tune the open string. Then adjust the saddle to where the 9th and 21st frets are as close to a perfect octave as possible. Adjust, retune the open string, check the octave again. This spreads the "error" across the fretboard better IMHO than the 12th fret check. Try it. I think you'll like the result.
I learned that to figure out how much force you need to fret, push the string down on the back of the fret until it starts to buzz. Then try that same pressure on the front of the fret. It's almost perfect. This was shown to me on an acoustic, so I'm not sure if this is different for electrics because of tension or action or something.
Hi Rhett, I've always taught beginning guitarists (and others that developed bad habits) not to use a "death-grip" when they play chords to help out stay in tune. Taught a guy who had 4 years of prior guitar lessons and he had mentioned to me that he learned more with me in one day than he did in all of his 4 years of lessons. (I'm assuming the teacher didn't know what they were doing). As far as staying in tune, one item I've found that helps are the nuts and bridges made by Graph Tech Guitar Labs. The set I installed on my LP has helped it hold it's tuning very well. Great video for those interested in the real reasons why your guitar won't stay in tune. 😁
In most cases pressing to hard will actually cause you to go sharp, especially with certain guitars. Apparently not the one you play. But I'm not sure that advice works for everyone.
I’m not going to sift through the comments here to see if this was mentioned. But the problem with cutting the slots at an angle is that it does nothing for the problem. It moves the break angle from the back of the nut to the front of the nut. Leaving the same problem. I bought a gizmo off Amazon called the string butler. It works. I recommend that over cutting angled slots.
Guitars can be a nightmare. I live in NYC and the weather shifts can be brutal. My solution is to just check them every time I change the strings. I suggest everyone learn the basics of setups for this reason. Little adjustments periodically prevent big things later on. Second thing is, get a humidifier. Keep your guitar room in balance and your guitars won't freak out on you
Why not put locking nuts and matching fine tuners on the bridge on ALL guitars and be done with the problem forever? Doesn’t have to be a floyd rose tremolo…
Essential information for guitarists. A couple of things that can drive you crazy that weren't mentioned. You can do everything right but have one or more bad strings straight from the pack. If you have checked everything else and it still doesn't sound in tune, one string might be vibrating funny. The neck pickup might be too close to the strings and and the magnetism can cause a pitch warble. And finally, some guitars just never sound in tune. I believe it has something to do with the way that particular wood produces overtones that do not ring together harmoniously. It has caused me to sell some instruments after putting hundreds of dollars into them, trying to make them sound right. If you are buying a guitar, one indicator, aside from your ears, is if the needle on an electronic tuner has difficulty settling on the pitch.
It is important to note that a Graph Tech Tusq XL nut or a nylon nut is fine to use as long as the nut is cut correctly as Ben says. A bone nut is Rhett’s preference, but it isn’t necessary to use a bone nut in order to stay in tune. I use Graph Tech nuts often and I buy them blank rather than pre-slotted…I then have my experienced tech cut the slots themselves. The material doesn’t matter that much, but the experience and skill of the person cutting the nut slots does.
Assuming set up and intonation haver been done - put the new strings on, make the windings on the posts neat without overlap, bring it up roughly to concert pitch. Spend about 10 minutes playing it with big chords stretching the strings, retune to roughly concert pitch. Put the guitar down for 24 hours and leave it well alone. Bring up up to accurate concert pitch. Now it should stay in tune for several weeks with only minor adjustment.
Great vid. Let me add a note. 1. Temperatures will affect the wood and might change a bit tuning. I always get my guitars out of the gigbag wherever I will play, tune it, wait for it to settle and then tune it again 30 mins later. 2. Fender jazzmasters and jaguars. The nut "SAUCES" are great for a night etc. but will eventually turn into goo goo muck or dirt. Gotta clean those nuts and saddles afterwards. 3. After winding a string on a tuner that the string goes into a hole. Like jaguar tuners, after winding and tuning I always go to where the string corners coming out of the slot and push a bit down the string with my finger or nail. It reorganizes the winding a bit. Helps make it tighter.
4 года назад+2
I have done everything under the sun to help my guitar stay in tune. It certainly keeps in tune much better now, but I've come to accept that as close as it gets to perfection it will ALWAYS get out of tune. Therefore, I invested in tuners. Clip tuner, rig tuner, you name it. I play a couple of songs, check my tuning between them and keep on playing. You will see maaaany people doing this live all the time, unless they have a large amount of guitars plus a guitar tech.
@ Oh wow, that sucks. My strings keep slipping and I was thinking about investing in some locking tuners. If they’re not making much difference for you, then I won’t bother. I watched a video earlier of how to lock in new strings when doing a change over, so I may give that a try first. I also heard using the whammy bar too much makes the string slip too, so I’ll calm down on that a bit also and see if it helps. Thanks for the heads up.
My favorite three tuning stability hacks: 1. On a Strat, the "Tremsetter". Replaces the center spring and pushes the bridge back into position. Finnicky to set up, but once it works, it works, even with a floating trem. 2. On Bigsby equipped guitars: You don't have to run the strings under that roll thingy. Usually, the pressure is enough even if you run them on top of it. Improves tuning stability by a LOT! And 3. on Les Paul type headstocks: The "String Butler". It forces the strings to run straight a little longer after the nut, then leads them to the tuners via little rolls. It's butt ugly, kind of expensive, and changes the appearance of your guitar. But it works.
On the Tremsetter front I got a deluxe plus with the Fender Floyd Rose in 96. Put on the Tremsetter with the bridge floating. Haven't touched this guitar for a repair in all these days. She's probably ready for a fret crowning at this point but 9's all the time can pin the arm against the body and let go still in tune. 26 yrs later. On my Paul I changed to locking tuners, Tusc XL nut, locking bridge and set up for 10's with heavy E string. No problems staying in tune. Now the hard part. Playing these guitars like I know what I'm doing.
@7:30 I noticed a huge difference moving from really slim frets on my Ibanez to chunkier frets on my Les Paul. Fretting pressure became much more important with taller frets, and I really needed to adjust my playing style
I have a custom shop ES 330 that I love. Except that it won't stay in tune and has been out of tune up the neck forever. This video is the most helpful one I have about this trouble. I adjusted the screws in the bridge and Shazam!! The harmonic at the 12th fret and the fretted note at the 12th fret are all at once the same. Thanks so much. I am a big fan of your videos with Rick Beato and Dave Onorato.
I remember Steve Vai saying that a lot of players can't hit an in tune C chord!! Fingering properly was what he was getting@!!!! Great video lesson!!!!🙏🙏🙏
The old builders always checked the nut for everything. Everything begins at the nut. I never got the “sustain” thing with a brass nut either. I have an Afinity Telecaster that stays in tune. I put a cheap set of “Willkenson knock offs” tuners and a cheap graphite nut cut right and the guitar stays in tune! I don’t! It’s in the hands too! Great great show!
That Eastman is a beautiful guitar. The nut on it is properly cut because they’re handmade from the start to finish, they’re only cheap because they’re made in China.
On my guitars with a 3 per side headstock, I had problems with the G strings. I've found that winding the G string 'up', the capstan helps a lot, as it makes it a less of a sharp angle as it comes off the nut towards the tuner...less tension at that point. Got this idea from a Tim Pierce video. The G on my Yamaha Revstar 420 stays in tune all the time now. You can at least try it...it may work for you too.
18 months ago I took a risk and bought an esp 1000 Evertune bridge equipped guitar. It was the best decision I’ve made in my 30 years of playing the guitar. I’ve since sold almost my entire electric guitar collection and replaced with Evertune equipped guitars. The few I kept have also been upgraded with Evertune bridges. I never have to worry about being out of tune again! Epic.
I think this video covers every case. I have a Gibson Les Paul Classic since 2008, it's my favorite guitar, but I'm having issues with the G string since the beginning : if you bend it a few times over a couple of minutes, it needs to be tuned again. I can play the same stuff on a mexican strat or an epiphone SG 400 with no issues. Well, I think I'll need to change the nut someday, get rid of that demon. The only thing I'm scared of is, paying for something that might not resolve the issue, or create a new one.
Great info, thanks! Ben Calhoun is providing a very clear insight of tuning issues. I did learn stuff the hard way, by replacing hardware&nut on my epiphone
I never had the G string on my les paul go out of tune, never had a guitar (even with gibson-style headstocks) that had that problem, never knew it was so common until I started seeing it in the internet ._.
My Gibsons stay in tune pretty much, but I do have properly cut bone nuts on them. Still, my Teles outshine them in that area. Ive been stricken with Teles since 1968 but I still love my Gibsons. I can “appreciate” the high build quality of PRS and have owned quite a few domestic renderings, but despite their undeniably superior workmanship I just don’t seem to bond with them. I just don’t get it because I really want to. I just keep reaching for my Teles or my old SG. Mystery!
My grip is way too heavy handed. Doesn't matter how it's set up, I'm gonna strangle it. I play guitar like I'm in a fight with some invisible tone enemy.
LMAO, that's too funny "I'm gonna strangle it" Glad I'm not the only one. I'm trying to work on that But on the plus side... My finger tips could drive nails
I know all of this but I had to watch it anyways! :) I put a little drop of 3&1oil on the nut and bridge on all my strats and it stays in perfect tuning!!!
When I replaced the nylon nut with a bone nut on my acoustic, I paid close attention to the nut slots, filing in the most neutral angle to the pegs. It helped immensely.
I have no idea why people complain about that. I have no super expensive guitars, but they are all pretty stable. I can do a good setup, by now, and my headache is usually the nut slots, when I file one a bit too much. Low action is nice, but playing louder, you do not want any fret buzz, I sometimes file just a bit too deep. Oops, new nut, do it again. And I like making them out of copper or brass, when the bridge is metal, too. It's just for fun, I don't play on stage, I can afford a mistake and try the things I see online myself. Result? Now I know from experience, that changing something in a guitar often means I need to check and adjust the entire setup. Even tuning a guitar just one stop lower, that means the neck gets slightly less string tension, so the action gets slightly lower, and intonation shifts a bit, so, tuning lower means you could losen the truss rod a tiny bit, in order to get rid of fret buzz. When you have done this, you know this guitar a lot better. For other guitars you simply tune it down and you get away with it. Yes, it is an art. Never forget to do these checks, if you don't hear right away that it has changed and needs some corrections, that is.
I mostly played a Squier Tele for 15 years before it fell apart and never had any tuning stability issues, easy, hardtail. I since made myself a partscaster hybrid Strat body with Tele guts and a tremolo, locking tuners. I can divebomb and it stays perfectly in tune it's actually incredible
For my Les Paul I put something called the String Butler on which redirects the strings to go though the nut slots straight and that fixed most of my issues. But it's all literally a balancing act when it comes to tuning stability. Also fun fact the Epiphone Les Pauls don't have as much of that issue since the headstock angle isn't as severe.
I always use the term "decked" if a Strat tremolo is up against the body. Hard Tail is a non tremolo Strat. There is a device called "The String Butler" that straightens the string path thru the nut on Gibson Style guitars without any drilling.
The biggest friction points in the synchronized tremolo are sustain block and the through hole on the bridge plate. This is a structural issue. GOTOH 510 (FST) unit improved these problems. That's why many high-end brands use this unit. This unit is a time saver for me For Gibson style guitars head, I use a Fender style string guide attached to the top of the truss rod cover for 3rd and 4th strings, instead of "The String Butler". It works!!!
@@Atomic1710 The intonation of my Rarity Telecaster on the b string was bad right from the factory. I ad to take it to my guitar tech. That being said, it is a great guitar.
Rhett, you're fortunate to have an "All In One" music store, from setup to sales, etc. I live in the California Bay Area and you'd think we'd have some killer stores that catered to its customers, like this one, but no... Most are Guitar Centers and honestly and sadly, most of them are lacking seriously in knowledge and professionalism. They just don't desereve our business and the good stores and mom and pop shops are almost all gone. Very hard to find a reputable and honest luthier and knowledgeable sales employees... Feel fortunate and thanks for the video! ✌🏼
I make my own compensated bone nuts from blanks. Properly cut nut slots with graphite lube, locking tuners + locking bridge does the trick. Correct intonation with again a little lube on saddles, no issues. Strat or tele style straight string pull headstock helps too.
Last weekend I played a full three hour gig with my Vintage V100 LP copy and did not need to tune the whole show. Why? Because the V100 has a 14 degree headstock verses the Gibson 17 degree headstock... A small but invaluable difference. And, no, it does not effect sustain. This guitar sustains forever. Looking at it you would never know the difference but playing it it makes all the difference in tuning stability. I have a Fender KWS Stratocaster from 2012 that had the typical tuning issues, in particular with the G string. I installed Hipshot Griplock "staggered" locking tuners and roller string trees and the problem was completely solved. I can play a whole show with it now and no issues. Gibson and Fender could easily rectify these issues, but for some reason they stubbornly stick to their original designs which are about 90% great, but could easily be better.
Wish this came out sooner! Struggled with my lp 2016 for yrs and eventually got a new nut and it fixed the tuning issue But it went for at least a yr with out getting played Now it's amazing!
Pretty timely. I have a '76 Ibanez Rocket Roll Sr that i love. Played a little bar gig in the early '80s and after a restring, it gave me trouble all night. I now take my time re stringing, doing the loose end loop around the back of the peg, pulling it under the nut side of the string, winding down the peg, especially on the plain strings. Cross it, ya can cut it. I hold it down at the nut while winding. Took this guitar out of its case for the first time in months this weekend. Rotating the herd. Had to use a tuner to dial it in to standard but once i did, it was rock solid. Ha, even chipped off a layer of crud from the B string, area between the bridge and V plate ! Yes, it's due for a restring :).
I don't have any issues with my Gibson Les Pauls, tuning or otherwise. One is older and one is only a few years old. I used to have the g string issue on some guitars long ago. I had a Ibanez LP decades ago and a Ibanez Blazer a few years after that & they would go out of tune often. However, it wasn't due to any of the issues mentioned here. It was because I needed to stretch out the new strings that I changed often. I learned that back then and it's been smooth sailing every since. Put on a new string. grab it with both hands. Stretch it out. Tune it. stretch it out . Tune it. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. When it's staying in tune then do the next string. After the 6th string is on, stretched & tuned you're ready to rock 99% of the time. If you're not then you likely need a setup on your guitar. Just don't break the strings when you stretch them. You'll learn the limits of the strings. Have an extra set ready. Also, when strings get old, they can just refuse to cooperate. They are in tune for open chords but not for anything past the 7th fret. Sometimes it's just one string that wants to fight.Nothing lasts forever.
The reason the G sounds perfect is because there’s no bloody 3rd in it! It’s a G5. Major thirds, when a guitar (or a piano for that matter) is perfectly tuned will always be 13.69 cents sharp of pure. It’s unavoidable. In fact every interval, with the exception of octaves and unisons, will be “out of tune” to a greater or lesser degree. It’s a necessary compromise when you only have 12 notes to an octave on instruments of fixed pitch.
With a strat, the string tension also has to match the spring tension. Do this right, and when the guitar goes out of tune, you just need to dive bomb the whammy bar and bingo. Back in tune every time. Frudua tv youtube channel has some amazing setup vids. You'll only tune your strat once or twice per string change...
You mentioned the D and G strings on Gibson-styles always going out of tune because of that V angle the strings do past the nut. There is a device called a "String Butler," which makes the strings go straight over the nut, THEN split off by using roller saddles. That alone solved all my Les Paul tuning problems. That all said, while we are on the subject of Gibson-style, you should also take a look at that neck, ESPECIALLY if you have an older guitar. Those single-piece mahogany necks will bend from the heat from your hands. You go out for a smoke break, the neck returns to its original position. You start playing again, and your hand heat causes the neck to bend again. If you try to adjust the truss rod before you play, while playing, when you come back from smoke break, when playing again, all you are going to do is ruin the neck. At current, the only way I know to fix this is replacing it with a guitar which has at least a three-piece neck.
My 1998 Ibanez St 300 almost never goes out of tune. I put it away for a year once picked up and it was perfect even on tuner! My 81 hard tail Strat was bad the put new Fender locking tuners on it, fixed stays in perfect tune for days of hard use. I'm a firm user of the "pencil" at the nut. I found cleaning strings with rubbing alcohol after playing also helps keep strings sounding good. Z.K.
Love Ben, he's great! Wish I would have found him about a month earlier than I did. Have a PRS SE Mark Tremonti Custom. Got locking tuners for it because it didn't want to stay in tune. I don't play a lot or hard....... yet (I'm a newbie). Took it in to him and he said the same thing, locking tuners don't help with staying in tune. He said I need to get the nut worked on or replaced.
Rhett, Great Video...really helpful to so many people. But, if you are looking for content..please revisit this and discuss Buzz Feiten tuning system,Evertune,locking tuners (graduated versus non graduated, and Spring-quality on Vibrato systems. I think there is much more interesting content to be shared. ...said a guy with a Yamaha Strat that WILL not stay in tune!
I upgraded my Fender Strat with Wudtone CP 50s vibrato (narrow string spacing) and my tuning is very stable, even greater resonance, keeping vintage looks at the same time. Recommended!
Thanks Rhett, for the doing this vid. Everything seems pretty spot on. One thing I don't agree on a LPs the G (3rd) string, if Ben says that because it is angled away towards the tuner then why the D(4th) string can stay in tune??? it's angled out the opposition direction to the tuner. Another main point here is that all these are based on new guitars with new frets. What about worn frets or slightly worn frets ? At open tuning everything show fine. But when you fret down a chord it runs out, it won't sound right. A lot of players don't realized the problem is in the frets and usually blame it on the tuners, intonation, setups etc...😂
Getting your Strat set up “right” is no joke. Everything has to be balanced, and no friction points, if you want to use your Vibrato with any confidence. Raw Vintage springs are worth every penny! I have polished out my nut with dead strings, to make sure there aren’t any burrs. Pencil lead, or Nut Sauce. It’s tricky? Tele, once you get things set up, no problem 😉
...Or, insanely horrible? Depending on your mental state? Playing out of tune, and not being able to get your guitar back in tune is it’s own bad acid trip!
I recently put a String Butler on my Les Paul and wow it fixes the tuning issue when bending, most notably the G-string. And I've also noticed that it holds tune much longer now too. Another way to improve tuning stability is to put on a thicker gauge string set.
I have a Dean VMNTX and for a $300 guitar it is awesome. The tuning stability is great, haven't had any issues at all. I've had the guitar for a year now and I've played it so much, it still serves me well. Grover tuners and some sort of plastic nut but still stays in tune even after I do crazy bends/vibrato on higher frets, even if I do a 24th fret bend on the high E string
This was super informative and helpful, Thanks for a great video! In my old band, I had some challenges staying in tune, but it was because the lead guitarist often times would get me to use his amp that he provided for me instead of my own amp... I found I could never hear that amp properly on stage, and this tended to make me seriously overplay, like really hitting the strings as hard as I could always, it was just a mess. In my new band, I always play my amp through an angled 2x12 cab with an open back- It is aimed right at me and the drummer can hear it through the back, I dont have to turn it up crazy loud to hear it, and I let my amp do all the work instead of my fingers. I can play with a light touch and now my guitar really stays in tune for a long time, It is 100% better... So in my case, my tuning issues stemmed from my playing, not an issue with my guitar, which by the way is a G&L- I love that G&L strat and I think it is infintely better than a Fender strat...
my gigging strats are both have locking tuners, graftech nut, roller string tree, roller saddles. I can play them very much like a FR unit but not off the chain and they stay in tune very well
Yes, I am a fan of the graphtech nut. I tried Bone....it's just to variable..one bone is good...another not. Graphtech is consistent and self lubricating.
another important thing for strat style tuning stability. Tune one string>wiggle the bar. tune one string>wiggle the bar. Go back and forth until the whole thing is in tune AFTER you wiggle the bar. Lubricate the saddles, nut, and string trees, and it'll stay in tune great.
How have you fixed your tuning issues?
By becoming a total guitar snob and only playing PRS.
Hey.... it works.
By giving up on Gibson and buying a HH Fender Telecaster
I have 2 custom guitars that love staying in tune.
I didn't have to, bc my cheapo Epi SG stays in tune really great, and my Red Special is a great guitar and has a fantastic vibrato bridge unit
Set up, my tuning issues were cured,
Set up for me and my light touch.
Tunning the G string: flat, flat, flat, PING! Sharp.
I thought it was just me until now.
Oh the frustration
Nut too tight.
It's caused by the windings on the string catching on the nut slot. As you tighten all the tension increase is between the nut and the tuner until it suddenly slips to the next wind which makes the tuning sharp. As the guy said, getting the slot cut right is the solution.
The String Butler fixes the Gibson issues nicely by making straight string pull and using rollers afterward to go to the post.
Always the G string!
Recently switched to wound g string, and I'm never going back. Still light gauge, 10-46 but the g string is 18g wound. To me at least it sounds much better than a non-wound g string. Also seems to hold tune much better than a non-wound g.
Now if you're doing crazy huge bends, this might not be for you. But for me it's not an issue
G strings do irritate your crack 🤣😂
Not just Gibsons. The G string is the only string that is ever out of tune on my Ibanez JEM.
Dude it really is tho. I just always thought it’s bc it is my choice bending string. The G string was just made for awesome bends.
@@leftovernoise it becomes even more apparent with heavier gauge strings. I have a guitar tuned to C standard that I use 12-56 strings on but the plain 3rd they come with is horrid. So I use a wound 22 I believe. Whatever the D string in a standard 9-42 set is. Its infinitely better
1. Get a tele
2. tune once a month just to see that its already in tune.
Amen
real tho (i play a tele)
True...but no trem...
If you take off all the strings, and just never put them back on, your tuning issues are solved forever.
Genius!
Patent this system and become rich! ;)
😂😂😂😂 made my day!
Now you have some serious playing issues....
And that Air guitar tone you get with no strings is so sweet, especially when plugged into a microwave
I like how honest the guy is about accepting that it will never be perfect. That is so true and the sooner you accept it, the more fun you will have.
naw F that... Perfect intonation till the day I die! You just aren't trying hard enough if its still out of tune...
@@wulfrache how’s progress?
thats what i used to tell the nuns in catholic school..i still got Ds.
There,s no such thing as perfectly intune guitar...but you can finds ways to play perfect pitch.
@@wulfrache 1 year later. I bet your guitars aren't perfectly intonated.
All my guitars stay in tune very well. After I replace old strings, they stay in tune for days at a time. I do all my own setup and maintenance. I do my own fret work, nuts, electronics and setup / general maintenance. I think every guitarist should learn how to do all of these tasks. It takes a while to learn and become good at it but it's worthwhile and helps you discriminate when buying a new instrument going forward. Your first few goes at cutting a nut or fret levelling probably won't go to well so get a cheaper instrument to practice on. In the long run it will save you a lot of money too. Having a super well maintained instrument that never goes out of tune or has any issues is fantastic. It's satisfying when you know you are the reason it is so good.
I have came across some guitars that are just garbage. No matter what you do they will never stay in tune and are just inherently bad. They are usually cheap and made out of wood that's probably better suited for furniture or floor boards. I don't mean to be rude or ignorant saying that, I'm just being honest. Knots, sap pockets and other defects are hard to mitigate. Buy one without issues is probably the best place to begin.
I actually have a Les Paul that has perfect intonation across the entire fretboard. It came that way. I've check every fret with a stone tuner, it's nuts. I was told it wasn't possible but, it's the exception to the rule. The minute I picked it up I knew it was special. I've been playing for about 35 years and it's the only guitar I've ever played that is this perfect. Weird and most people won't believe it. Took it to a guy that's a jazz musician and teacher in my local area; he didn't believe me. He sat with it for about half an hour. He then left the room and came back with his early 60s Gibson and offered to trade it on the spot. I said no. He has since borrowed it a few times when doing recording work. He's a pro and a nice guy, so I trust him. Rare as hens teeth though.
A good setup will often fix any issues. Tuning issues are usually nut related, start there. After that, old tuners or a wonky bridge. If not, it could be the neck is unstable. Look for structural reasons next. After that, it could just be the guitar was meant to be a table and is trying to tell you it is time to part ways.
I AGREE - Teach yourself. With so many videos on the Google-Gram you can learn just about anything. I have bought myself a proper soldering iron, and completed several pot replacements, new pick up installs, and various mods to my tele and strat. I have reached success in setting up my strat which is actually fairly easy...... once you know how. Ive had to walk away a few times when something would not go right at first. BUT, in the end SUCCESS!
I have a box of tools that I have put together over time. String action gauge, relief gauge, fretting saw, nut files and so on. I'm at a point now that I could pretty much build a guitar from scratch. Stewmac and others have great tools and videos. Books, loads of books too.
I've got an old guitar under my bed that needs a new fretboard, all I need to do it is a wood blank, frets, inlay material and plastic binding. We will see what Santa brings me for Christmas :)
That guitar of yours sounds kind of magical 😅 thanks for sharing your story
It is very encouraging to read your comment. Just before I bought a new guitar to start my journey, I found a broken guitar for a very low price, that came with a decent bag and stand (so was basically a free guitar). Knowing almost nothing about guitars, I also bought the junker so I could learn about it and fix it up myself. At this point, I don't own a soldering iron so I got the wiring fixed at a shop, but I plan on doing all the rest on my own, starting with changing the nut, and eventually upgrading the pickups.
So many, even “Experts”, dont really understand how to, and the order of how to adjust a guitars. This fine Gentleman is always spot on. He knows what he’s talking about.
I love listening to this man talk. Very soothing for some reason.
"Everything should be done in playing position". AMEN!!!
I'm sure someone's mentioned this, but the #1 issue I encounter is guitarists who don't know the correct method for tuning. ALWAYS tune UP to pitch, NEVER down. Bring the string up to correct pitch, give it a hard bend, and repeat. It's remarkable how many people don't know this.
Exactly. Ibanez even suggests to do this. That's because the tuners we use are geared, and mechanically speaking, they're put in a stronger, much more stable position when you tune up to the pitch.
@@TheCrimsonIdol987 Also, any chance of string slippage (finding equilibrium) between the tuning peg and nut is eliminated.
This is the most important video you've ever done for all us frustrated guitar players
One thing you didn't mention I think is the scale length and picking strength. Depending on the gauge and these two factors, it's easier to get a string out of tune by hitting the string too hard
I resonate with that title on a spiritual level.
Had to learn to lighten up my touch. Makes a big difference. You can still be assertive with the strings in picking or strumming for dynamics but lightening up on the left hand really improved things for me and it helps lower your playing fatigue.
It's an issue with bigger frets. I personally prefer small vintage frets, and there isn't this issue with it at all. It can wear the fretboard faster though, it's okay for that relic look
A Les Paul needs to be wrestled while playing to be in tune, bending the neck and varying the pressure on the strings. My Fenders generally hold tuning for weeks to months with no problem.
Immediately subscribed. Your experience with the "blacksmith grip" is something I've been struggling with forever (20 years now). I never had anyone look at my playing under a microscope and I was so used to violin (where if you have too light a touch, your note will not ring) that I thought "Well, the frets will compensate for everything, no worries." 100's of videos and I've never heard that the way you play can affect the tuning (other than obviously somebody who does a bunch of dives and such).
This probably applies mainly to beginning guitarists, but when you tune your strings, always tune up to the note, not down.
Unless you have lockers then tune down ( at least that is what I was told, seems to work)
I agree. "It can never truly be Intonated" - try to get: as-close-as possible. I got lucky with my Suhr (floating Gotoh 510 and Locking tuners) = incredible tuning stability and return-to-pitch, with trem-arm. My Nut is cut-right. I vote: more Ben Calhoun. Very knowledgable guy. oNe LovE from NYC
John Suhr gets them right. Of course, as the guy mentioned in the video, a guitar is not a perfectly intonated instrument and we just have to learn to accept and deal with that fact. They still sound great to me!
The trick with a standard strat trem is ensure it is not resting on the body at all but floating on a knife edge against the screws, and then it will come back into tune immediately.
I fixed this issue by switching to a custom strings gauge made by Stringjoy:
String 1: .010
String 2: .0135
String 3: .018w
String 4: .026w
String 5: .036
String 6: .048
The wounded G string prevents it from bending too hard then untuning, really life changing especially when recording in studio :)
A 20w is a great compromise too
I've tried wound thirds i can't bend them , but I use a .018 plain for my 3rd
D'addario also makes 10-46 with an 18g wound 3rd string.
Stringjoy is a great company all around
I cut all of the nut slots on my Gibson Les Paul's super simple. And then when you're done file down the top of it and then put your strings on
I can't speak on electric guitars but for a acoustic "HUMIDITY" is a huge factor get yourself a dehumidifier and a humidifier unless you are in a state that doesn't experience all four seasons..
I came here because of the G string on my PRS! Never knew the nut angle affected the tuning like that
Same on my PRS too :)
Same here
I'm glad he mentioned locking keys don't fix tuning issues. It's all in the nut. I tell people this all the time.
To be fair if you are using alot of tremolo on your guitar they can help quite a bit, for example if you dive the bar down and you have a pile of winds on the tuning peg the winds will unravel a little bit but they wont always fully return to how they originally where, where as in theory anyway a set of locking keys can remedy this by massively cutting down on the number of winds on the pegs
It's not ALL in the nut, but most of it is.
And most guitars today have plastic nuts -- which are virtually impossible to correct because the plastic is relatively soft.
Technique in tuning is also key. Always tune up to the desired note
Underrated comment.
A better way to set intonation (which is an APPROXIMATION on any/every guitar (except those weird bent fret guitars)) is this:
Tune the open string. Then adjust the saddle to where the 9th and 21st frets are as close to a perfect octave as possible. Adjust, retune the open string, check the octave again. This spreads the "error" across the fretboard better IMHO than the 12th fret check. Try it. I think you'll like the result.
I learned that to figure out how much force you need to fret, push the string down on the back of the fret until it starts to buzz. Then try that same pressure on the front of the fret. It's almost perfect. This was shown to me on an acoustic, so I'm not sure if this is different for electrics because of tension or action or something.
I learn so much from Ben.🎸 I have a Gibson with a constant out of tune G string. Now I know why.
Thanks Ben❣️
Hi Rhett, I've always taught beginning guitarists (and others that developed bad habits) not to use a "death-grip" when they play chords to help out stay in tune. Taught a guy who had 4 years of prior guitar lessons and he had mentioned to me that he learned more with me in one day than he did in all of his 4 years of lessons. (I'm assuming the teacher didn't know what they were doing).
As far as staying in tune, one item I've found that helps are the nuts and bridges made by Graph Tech Guitar Labs. The set I installed on my LP has helped it hold it's tuning very well.
Great video for those interested in the real reasons why your guitar won't stay in tune. 😁
In most cases pressing to hard will actually cause you to go sharp, especially with certain guitars. Apparently not the one you play. But I'm not sure that advice works for everyone.
I’m not going to sift through the comments here to see if this was mentioned. But the problem with cutting the slots at an angle is that it does nothing for the problem. It moves the break angle from the back of the nut to the front of the nut. Leaving the same problem. I bought a gizmo off Amazon called the string butler. It works. I recommend that over cutting angled slots.
Guitars can be a nightmare. I live in NYC and the weather shifts can be brutal. My solution is to just check them every time I change the strings. I suggest everyone learn the basics of setups for this reason. Little adjustments periodically prevent big things later on. Second thing is, get a humidifier. Keep your guitar room in balance and your guitars won't freak out on you
Why not put locking nuts and matching fine tuners on the bridge on ALL guitars and be done with the problem forever? Doesn’t have to be a floyd rose tremolo…
Essential information for guitarists. A couple of things that can drive you crazy that weren't mentioned. You can do everything right but have one or more bad strings straight from the pack. If you have checked everything else and it still doesn't sound in tune, one string might be vibrating funny. The neck pickup might be too close to the strings and and the magnetism can cause a pitch warble. And finally, some guitars just never sound in tune. I believe it has something to do with the way that particular wood produces overtones that do not ring together harmoniously. It has caused me to sell some instruments after putting hundreds of dollars into them, trying to make them sound right. If you are buying a guitar, one indicator, aside from your ears, is if the needle on an electronic tuner has difficulty settling on the pitch.
AMEN!
Good points ! But he missed the main ones in a Floyd rose .
It is important to note that a Graph Tech Tusq XL nut or a nylon nut is fine to use as long as the nut is cut correctly as Ben says. A bone nut is Rhett’s preference, but it isn’t necessary to use a bone nut in order to stay in tune. I use Graph Tech nuts often and I buy them blank rather than pre-slotted…I then have my experienced tech cut the slots themselves. The material doesn’t matter that much, but the experience and skill of the person cutting the nut slots does.
Assuming set up and intonation haver been done - put the new strings on, make the windings on the posts neat without overlap, bring it up roughly to concert pitch. Spend about 10 minutes playing it with big chords stretching the strings, retune to roughly concert pitch. Put the guitar down for 24 hours and leave it well alone. Bring up up to accurate concert pitch. Now it should stay in tune for several weeks with only minor adjustment.
My method is:
Always tune "up" at ur last turn.
Great vid. Let me add a note.
1. Temperatures will affect the wood and might change a bit tuning. I always get my guitars out of the gigbag wherever I will play, tune it, wait for it to settle and then tune it again 30 mins later.
2. Fender jazzmasters and jaguars. The nut "SAUCES" are great for a night etc. but will eventually turn into goo goo muck or dirt. Gotta clean those nuts and saddles afterwards.
3. After winding a string on a tuner that the string goes into a hole. Like jaguar tuners, after winding and tuning I always go to where the string corners coming out of the slot and push a bit down the string with my finger or nail. It reorganizes the winding a bit. Helps make it tighter.
I have done everything under the sun to help my guitar stay in tune. It certainly keeps in tune much better now, but I've come to accept that as close as it gets to perfection it will ALWAYS get out of tune. Therefore, I invested in tuners. Clip tuner, rig tuner, you name it. I play a couple of songs, check my tuning between them and keep on playing. You will see maaaany people doing this live all the time, unless they have a large amount of guitars plus a guitar tech.
Have you tried locking tuners ?
@@RexyFan yes, 2 of my guitars have them. Same deal. It's better but not by that much.
@
Oh wow, that sucks.
My strings keep slipping and I was thinking about investing in some locking tuners.
If they’re not making much difference for you, then I won’t bother. I watched a video earlier of how to lock in new strings when doing a change over, so I may give that a try first.
I also heard using the whammy bar too much makes the string slip too, so I’ll calm down on that a bit also and see if it helps.
Thanks for the heads up.
Been watching guitar videos for past 2 years, probably the most useful one Ive watched. great info!
My favorite three tuning stability hacks:
1. On a Strat, the "Tremsetter". Replaces the center spring and pushes the bridge back into position. Finnicky to set up, but once it works, it works, even with a floating trem.
2. On Bigsby equipped guitars: You don't have to run the strings under that roll thingy. Usually, the pressure is enough even if you run them on top of it. Improves tuning stability by a LOT! And
3. on Les Paul type headstocks: The "String Butler". It forces the strings to run straight a little longer after the nut, then leads them to the tuners via little rolls. It's butt ugly, kind of expensive, and changes the appearance of your guitar. But it works.
On the Tremsetter front I got a deluxe plus with the Fender Floyd Rose in 96. Put on the Tremsetter with the bridge floating. Haven't touched this guitar for a repair in all these days. She's probably ready for a fret crowning at this point but 9's all the time can pin the arm against the body and let go still in tune. 26 yrs later. On my Paul I changed to locking tuners, Tusc XL nut, locking bridge and set up for 10's with heavy E string. No problems staying in tune. Now the hard part. Playing these guitars like I know what I'm doing.
Ben is my spirit animal. He's been my inspiration since starting my job at Guitar Center.
What brand of acoustic is that he plays with the cool binding and the tortoise shell pickguard? beauty eh?
@7:30 I noticed a huge difference moving from really slim frets on my Ibanez to chunkier frets on my Les Paul. Fretting pressure became much more important with taller frets, and I really needed to adjust my playing style
I have a custom shop ES 330 that I love. Except that it won't stay in tune and has been out of tune up the neck forever. This video is the most helpful one I have about this trouble. I adjusted the screws in the bridge and Shazam!! The harmonic at the 12th fret and the fretted note at the 12th fret are all at once the same. Thanks so much. I am a big fan of your videos with Rick Beato and Dave Onorato.
I remember Steve Vai saying that a lot of players can't hit an in tune C chord!! Fingering properly was what he was getting@!!!! Great video lesson!!!!🙏🙏🙏
They over press the 2 string.
The old builders always checked the nut for everything. Everything begins at the nut. I never got the “sustain” thing with a brass nut either. I have an Afinity Telecaster that stays in tune. I put a cheap set of “Willkenson knock offs” tuners and a cheap graphite nut cut right and the guitar stays in tune! I don’t! It’s in the hands too!
Great great show!
That Eastman is a beautiful guitar. The nut on it is properly cut because they’re handmade from the start to finish, they’re only cheap because they’re made in China.
On my guitars with a 3 per side headstock, I had problems with the G strings. I've found that winding the G string 'up', the capstan helps a lot, as it makes it a less of a sharp angle as it comes off the nut towards the tuner...less tension at that point. Got this idea from a Tim Pierce video. The G on my Yamaha Revstar 420 stays in tune all the time now. You can at least try it...it may work for you too.
18 months ago I took a risk and bought an esp 1000 Evertune bridge equipped guitar. It was the best decision I’ve made in my 30 years of playing the guitar. I’ve since sold almost my entire electric guitar collection and replaced with Evertune equipped guitars. The few I kept have also been upgraded with Evertune bridges. I never have to worry about being out of tune again! Epic.
that was way more interesting than i thought it would be! today, i learned about nut slot angle!
Not gonna lie, I've never had a tuning issue that wasn't fixed with a pencil.
John Wick once fixed tuning issues on 3 guitars with a pencil
Yeah, but why use a 10 cent pencil, when you can buy a $15 tube of Nut Sauce? 1st World solutions to simple problems.
@@tinyb69 John Wick didn’t use nut sauce. He could have... but he didn’t...
@@tinyb69 Nut Sauce? I'm contracting Space X to angle my string grooves. My sensitive ears can't handle one cent of de-tuning.
I think this video covers every case.
I have a Gibson Les Paul Classic since 2008, it's my favorite guitar, but I'm having issues with the G string since the beginning : if you bend it a few times over a couple of minutes, it needs to be tuned again. I can play the same stuff on a mexican strat or an epiphone SG 400 with no issues.
Well, I think I'll need to change the nut someday, get rid of that demon. The only thing I'm scared of is, paying for something that might not resolve the issue, or create a new one.
Great info, thanks! Ben Calhoun is providing a very clear insight of tuning issues. I did learn stuff the hard way, by replacing hardware&nut on my epiphone
I never had the G string on my les paul go out of tune, never had a guitar (even with gibson-style headstocks) that had that problem, never knew it was so common until I started seeing it in the internet ._.
My Gibsons stay in tune pretty much, but I do have properly cut bone nuts on them. Still, my Teles outshine them in that area. Ive been stricken with Teles since 1968 but I still love my Gibsons. I can “appreciate” the high build quality of PRS and have owned quite a few domestic renderings, but despite their undeniably superior workmanship I just don’t seem to bond with them. I just don’t get it because I really want to. I just keep reaching for my Teles or my old SG. Mystery!
Best vid ever seen in intonating your guitar is the proper way.
My grip is way too heavy handed. Doesn't matter how it's set up, I'm gonna strangle it. I play guitar like I'm in a fight with some invisible tone enemy.
LMAO, that's too funny
"I'm gonna strangle it"
Glad I'm not the only one. I'm trying to work on that
But on the plus side... My finger tips could drive nails
Get a guitar with tiny frets, won't matter how hard you push then!
Yeah, smaller fret crown height for the heavy handed. But the con is sooner or more frequent re-fretting.
@@blittle10000 True. Just thought of something. Does smaller frets help long slides sound better?
@@starbattles1 "finger tips could drive nails" is way better LMAO!!
I know all of this but I had to watch it anyways! :) I put a little drop of 3&1oil on the nut and bridge on all my strats and it stays in perfect tuning!!!
When I replaced the nylon nut with a bone nut on my acoustic, I paid close attention to the nut slots, filing in the most neutral angle to the pegs. It helped immensely.
I have no idea why people complain about that. I have no super expensive guitars, but they are all pretty stable. I can do a good setup, by now, and my headache is usually the nut slots, when I file one a bit too much. Low action is nice, but playing louder, you do not want any fret buzz, I sometimes file just a bit too deep. Oops, new nut, do it again. And I like making them out of copper or brass, when the bridge is metal, too. It's just for fun, I don't play on stage, I can afford a mistake and try the things I see online myself. Result? Now I know from experience, that changing something in a guitar often means I need to check and adjust the entire setup. Even tuning a guitar just one stop lower, that means the neck gets slightly less string tension, so the action gets slightly lower, and intonation shifts a bit, so, tuning lower means you could losen the truss rod a tiny bit, in order to get rid of fret buzz. When you have done this, you know this guitar a lot better. For other guitars you simply tune it down and you get away with it. Yes, it is an art. Never forget to do these checks, if you don't hear right away that it has changed and needs some corrections, that is.
I mostly played a Squier Tele for 15 years before it fell apart and never had any tuning stability issues, easy, hardtail. I since made myself a partscaster hybrid Strat body with Tele guts and a tremolo, locking tuners. I can divebomb and it stays perfectly in tune it's actually incredible
For my Les Paul I put something called the String Butler on which redirects the strings to go though the nut slots straight and that fixed most of my issues. But it's all literally a balancing act when it comes to tuning stability. Also fun fact the Epiphone Les Pauls don't have as much of that issue since the headstock angle isn't as severe.
I always use the term "decked" if a Strat tremolo is up against the body. Hard Tail is a non tremolo Strat. There is a device called "The String Butler" that straightens the string path thru the nut on Gibson Style guitars without any drilling.
The biggest friction points in the synchronized tremolo are sustain block and the through hole on the bridge plate. This is a structural issue. GOTOH 510 (FST) unit improved these problems. That's why many high-end brands use this unit. This unit is a time saver for me
For Gibson style guitars head, I use a Fender style string guide attached to the top of the truss rod cover for 3rd and 4th strings, instead of "The String Butler". It works!!!
well cut nut, nut lube, locking tuners or correct wind on non locking tuners, intonation set right, bend the hell out of new strings
And a compensated nut.
Funny how Rhett is holding a Les Paul, which is notorious for not being able to stay in tune.
Lmao I was thinking the exact same thing
If he was holding a telecaster it would be impossible to make this video
@@Atomic1710 The intonation of my Rarity Telecaster on the b string was bad right from the factory. I ad to take it to my guitar tech. That being said, it is a great guitar.
Depends on the individual guitar, i guess. I tune mine before the rehearsal or each set of a gig and that‘s about it.
With a LP fresh strings will go off in a matter of minutes. They have to be played in, then they will stay in tune.
I knew my Vulcan Death Grip was a problem but I didn’t know how important the nut angle is. Great video!!!
I love graphtec nut especially on strats. why is a bone nut better?
Great info. I've found that changing string gauges also requires slight saddle adjustments to dial in the intonation.
Rhett, you're fortunate to have an "All In One" music store, from setup to sales, etc.
I live in the California Bay Area and you'd think we'd have some killer stores that catered to its customers, like this one, but no... Most are Guitar Centers and honestly and sadly, most of them are lacking seriously in knowledge and professionalism. They just don't desereve our business and the good stores and mom and pop shops are almost all gone. Very hard to find a reputable and honest luthier and knowledgeable sales employees...
Feel fortunate and thanks for the video! ✌🏼
I make my own compensated bone nuts from blanks. Properly cut nut slots with graphite lube, locking tuners + locking bridge does the trick. Correct intonation with again a little lube on saddles, no issues. Strat or tele style straight string pull headstock helps too.
Last weekend I played a full three hour gig with my Vintage V100 LP copy and did not need to tune the whole show. Why? Because the V100 has a 14 degree headstock verses the Gibson 17 degree headstock... A small but invaluable difference. And, no, it does not effect sustain. This guitar sustains forever. Looking at it you would never know the difference but playing it it makes all the difference in tuning stability. I have a Fender KWS Stratocaster from 2012 that had the typical tuning issues, in particular with the G string. I installed Hipshot Griplock "staggered" locking tuners and roller string trees and the problem was completely solved. I can play a whole show with it now and no issues. Gibson and Fender could easily rectify these issues, but for some reason they stubbornly stick to their original designs which are about 90% great, but could easily be better.
Wish this came out sooner!
Struggled with my lp 2016 for yrs and eventually got a new nut and it fixed the tuning issue
But it went for at least a yr with out getting played
Now it's amazing!
Great no-nonsense summary of tuning issues.
Congratulations! One of the best and simplest videos on this topic.
Wow, i never thought about high action messing up your tuning, thank you, Ben Calhoun!
6:00 my man almost said “anyway here’s wonderwall
Pretty timely.
I have a '76 Ibanez Rocket Roll Sr that i love. Played a little bar gig in the early '80s and after a restring, it gave me trouble all night.
I now take my time re stringing, doing the loose end loop around the back of the peg, pulling it under the nut side of the string, winding down the peg, especially on the plain strings. Cross it, ya can cut it. I hold it down at the nut while winding.
Took this guitar out of its case for the first time in months this weekend. Rotating the herd.
Had to use a tuner to dial it in to standard but once i did, it was rock solid. Ha, even chipped off a layer of crud from the B string, area between the bridge and V plate ! Yes, it's due for a restring :).
I installed the String Butler on my Gibsons and it works fantastic!
I don't have any issues with my Gibson Les Pauls, tuning or otherwise. One is older and one is only a few years old. I used to have the g string issue on some guitars long ago. I had a Ibanez LP decades ago and a Ibanez Blazer a few years after that & they would go out of tune often. However, it wasn't due to any of the issues mentioned here. It was because I needed to stretch out the new strings that I changed often. I learned that back then and it's been smooth sailing every since. Put on a new string. grab it with both hands. Stretch it out. Tune it. stretch it out . Tune it. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. When it's staying in tune then do the next string. After the 6th string is on, stretched & tuned you're ready to rock 99% of the time. If you're not then you likely need a setup on your guitar. Just don't break the strings when you stretch them. You'll learn the limits of the strings. Have an extra set ready. Also, when strings get old, they can just refuse to cooperate. They are in tune for open chords but not for anything past the 7th fret. Sometimes it's just one string that wants to fight.Nothing lasts forever.
The reason the G sounds perfect is because there’s no bloody 3rd in it! It’s a G5. Major thirds, when a guitar (or a piano for that matter) is perfectly tuned will always be 13.69 cents sharp of pure. It’s unavoidable. In fact every interval, with the exception of octaves and unisons, will be “out of tune” to a greater or lesser degree. It’s a necessary compromise when you only have 12 notes to an octave on instruments of fixed pitch.
With a strat, the string tension also has to match the spring tension. Do this right, and when the guitar goes out of tune, you just need to dive bomb the whammy bar and bingo. Back in tune every time.
Frudua tv youtube channel has some amazing setup vids. You'll only tune your strat once or twice per string change...
You mentioned the D and G strings on Gibson-styles always going out of tune because of that V angle the strings do past the nut. There is a device called a "String Butler," which makes the strings go straight over the nut, THEN split off by using roller saddles. That alone solved all my Les Paul tuning problems.
That all said, while we are on the subject of Gibson-style, you should also take a look at that neck, ESPECIALLY if you have an older guitar. Those single-piece mahogany necks will bend from the heat from your hands. You go out for a smoke break, the neck returns to its original position. You start playing again, and your hand heat causes the neck to bend again. If you try to adjust the truss rod before you play, while playing, when you come back from smoke break, when playing again, all you are going to do is ruin the neck. At current, the only way I know to fix this is replacing it with a guitar which has at least a three-piece neck.
My 1998 Ibanez St 300 almost never goes out of tune. I put it away for a year once picked up and it was perfect even on tuner! My 81 hard tail Strat was bad the put new Fender locking tuners on it, fixed stays in perfect tune for days of hard use. I'm a firm user of the "pencil" at the nut. I found cleaning strings with rubbing alcohol after playing also helps keep strings sounding good. Z.K.
Love Ben, he's great! Wish I would have found him about a month earlier than I did. Have a PRS SE Mark Tremonti Custom. Got locking tuners for it because it didn't want to stay in tune. I don't play a lot or hard....... yet (I'm a newbie). Took it in to him and he said the same thing, locking tuners don't help with staying in tune. He said I need to get the nut worked on or replaced.
Rhett, Great Video...really helpful to so many people. But, if you are looking for content..please revisit this and discuss Buzz Feiten tuning system,Evertune,locking tuners (graduated versus non graduated, and Spring-quality on Vibrato systems. I think there is much more interesting content to be shared. ...said a guy with a Yamaha Strat that WILL not stay in tune!
I've got a Washburn with Buzz Feiten... for tuning, it sounds great!
I upgraded my Fender Strat with Wudtone CP 50s vibrato (narrow string spacing) and my tuning is very stable, even greater resonance, keeping vintage looks at the same time. Recommended!
Thank you both for this video.
I been playing strats for years and changed my nut out after watching this and it is night and day.
Thank you again.
Thanks Rhett, for the doing this vid. Everything seems pretty spot on. One thing I don't agree on a LPs the G (3rd) string, if Ben says that because it is angled away towards the tuner then why the D(4th) string can stay in tune??? it's angled out the opposition direction to the tuner. Another main point here is that all these are based on new guitars with new frets. What about worn frets or slightly worn frets ? At open tuning everything show fine. But when you fret down a chord it runs out, it won't sound right. A lot of players don't realized the problem is in the frets and usually blame it on the tuners, intonation, setups etc...😂
Getting your Strat set up “right” is no joke. Everything has to be balanced, and no friction points, if you want to use your Vibrato with any confidence. Raw Vintage springs are worth every penny!
I have polished out my nut with dead strings, to make sure there aren’t any burrs. Pencil lead, or Nut Sauce.
It’s tricky? Tele, once you get things set up, no problem 😉
Jimi didn't care. His Strat was ALWAYS out of tune. When you're on acid, everything sounds great!
...Or, insanely horrible? Depending on your mental state? Playing out of tune, and not being able to get your guitar back in tune is it’s own bad acid trip!
I recently put a String Butler on my Les Paul and wow it fixes the tuning issue when bending, most notably the G-string. And I've also noticed that it holds tune much longer now too. Another way to improve tuning stability is to put on a thicker gauge string set.
The most important thing for strats is to balance the tension between strings and springs. If it's flat on return, tighten claw screws & vice-versa!
On some of my Gibsons I wind the G string above the tuning peg hole rather than below, and this assists with tuning stability for that string.
7:45 I love that no bend bend technique.
Great video guys! I was about to comment that you forgot to mention impact of changing string gauge, and then you squeezed that in the final stretch.
I have a Dean VMNTX and for a $300 guitar it is awesome. The tuning stability is great, haven't had any issues at all. I've had the guitar for a year now and I've played it so much, it still serves me well. Grover tuners and some sort of plastic nut but still stays in tune even after I do crazy bends/vibrato on higher frets, even if I do a 24th fret bend on the high E string
This has been very informative and pointed me in the right direction to fix a tuning problem I have with an old Washburn.
Carl Verheyen style strat trem setup + vaseline/graphite nut lube = divebombs that return to pitch every time on a 6 hole vintage trem
This was super informative and helpful, Thanks for a great video! In my old band, I had some challenges staying in tune, but it was because the lead guitarist often times would get me to use his amp that he provided for me instead of my own amp... I found I could never hear that amp properly on stage, and this tended to make me seriously overplay, like really hitting the strings as hard as I could always, it was just a mess. In my new band, I always play my amp through an angled 2x12 cab with an open back- It is aimed right at me and the drummer can hear it through the back, I dont have to turn it up crazy loud to hear it, and I let my amp do all the work instead of my fingers. I can play with a light touch and now my guitar really stays in tune for a long time, It is 100% better... So in my case, my tuning issues stemmed from my playing, not an issue with my guitar, which by the way is a G&L- I love that G&L strat and I think it is infintely better than a Fender strat...
my gigging strats are both have locking tuners, graftech nut, roller string tree, roller saddles. I can play them very much like a FR unit but not off the chain and they stay in tune very well
Yes, I am a fan of the graphtech nut. I tried Bone....it's just to variable..one bone is good...another not. Graphtech is consistent and self lubricating.
Ben explains things amazingly well
another important thing for strat style tuning stability. Tune one string>wiggle the bar. tune one string>wiggle the bar. Go back and forth until the whole thing is in tune AFTER you wiggle the bar. Lubricate the saddles, nut, and string trees, and it'll stay in tune great.