The best advice I received one time was always take away light before adding light … just flagging a light off or diffusing available light before adding your lights to the set might be enough with what’s around
That Sekonic costs a mint. Only a small handful of people in the whole country that get consistent work on film sets could justify the expense. What about using a used minolta color meter - wont' it do the same thing? Or at least in the ball park? Albeit maybe not as nice or accurate?
Everytime I see a Litepanel astro 1x panel it's shifted green A RUclipsr I work with has a large set of aputure lights and one of the 120D lights is quite green also One day I'll invest in a color meter, it's just so expensive
really just depends on your needs for a light that small. Personally, i think the Bender is more versatile because it has a much higher output. RGBW is cool, but to me not that useful for a light like the Micro. But I have tubes and larger panels for RGBW needs. So it may come down to your current kit and needs/desires.
I disagree with your opinion about the color meter. Tbh, I don’t think mathematical precision is important to that degree. my eyes can notice above a 300 kelvin and tint differences. You’re going to change the look in resolve and no matter how precise you are, tones will shift and getting 94% in 30 minutes is better than being 99.999% in 2 hours
Is it just me.... you're actually talking about the colour meter here right? Well I think you are, because I don't believe a light meter is able to determine colour, only the intensity of light.
well to each their own, however one thing i would like to point out and make clear, the meter does not take that much extra time to get precise readings. Your "2 hours" is EXTREMELY exaggerated. it's a matter of a couple seconds to take the reading and then a few more seconds to adjust the lamp. not sure where you're getting two hours from. I welcome any and all positive criticism, however, i had to make that clear. and you are right 300 degrees isn't anything, however, the difference between a thousand degrees Kelvin can make a huge difference, and goes completely unnoticed by the human eye all the time. but if you're telling me your eyeballs can tell the difference between 6500 and 5500 kelvin, then you should definitely do a video on that! in fact, rent the sekonic, and test your eyeballs, i would watch that! Cheers!
@@JustinPhillip it doesn’t take 2 hours to do a reading. It takes a couple minutes max to do the reading. But bring that lights back down, running back to the grip truck, putting lights back up, the DP says, “The light wasn’t here”, then rest the camera, rest the rig down, and moves the light again. Re-rigs, picks up camera, BOOM 2 hours.
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The best advice I received one time was always take away light before adding light … just flagging a light off or diffusing available light before adding your lights to the set might be enough with what’s around
Thanks!
You are very welcome! Thank you! 🎉 Happy New Year 👊🏼
@@JustinPhillip You're one cool f-ing cat, and all the best to you this coming year. Cheers.
The amount of knowledge you're spitting in these videos is incredible 🙏
Whoever designed that fixture deserves a nomination for industrial design. What a beautiful fixture.
i full heartedly agree! CreamSource are the best!!!
Solid recap and summary of life with lights!
😆
Great stuff bro! Love all the creamsource lights.
Oh boy those Nikkor AIS lenses look good. Did you ever jump onboard the LOMO spherical bandwagon? I’m obsessed with them 😅
Patrick O'Sullivan dogged them too much, 😆, he made it to where i never like those things again 🤣
Now i have to go out and get my hands on a creamsource light... :)
I freaking love watching this channel. Great F-ing video, just great shared knowledge - Thanks man.
Cream Source was one of the first interviews I did when I started covering trade shows. They were super awesome and their lights are pretty amazing.
When’s the sigma fp dr tests coming 🙏🏽
Because of you.. I bought a Sekonic L-308s...
I wanted to ask.. As a "Beginner" this would be a good choice...
SUB!! Damn I watched the entire video!!!
Thank you!
Great information, Great video, Thanks
That Sekonic costs a mint. Only a small handful of people in the whole country that get consistent work on film sets could justify the expense. What about using a used minolta color meter - wont' it do the same thing? Or at least in the ball park? Albeit maybe not as nice or accurate?
Probably! But you can fine the sekonic used
Everytime I see a Litepanel astro 1x panel it's shifted green
A RUclipsr I work with has a large set of aputure lights and one of the 120D lights is quite green also
One day I'll invest in a color meter, it's just so expensive
Or 4: They can't afford a color meter. :(
😅 Good call! You gotta watch the used market, they do occasionally pop up! I saved quite a bit on mine 🤙🏼
Creamsource Micro+ Bender or Creamsource Micro+ Colour which one you recommend ?
really just depends on your needs for a light that small. Personally, i think the Bender is more versatile because it has a much higher output. RGBW is cool, but to me not that useful for a light like the Micro. But I have tubes and larger panels for RGBW needs. So it may come down to your current kit and needs/desires.
As a Keylight i think Bender is better choice
I disagree with your opinion about the color meter. Tbh, I don’t think mathematical precision is important to that degree. my eyes can notice above a 300 kelvin and tint differences. You’re going to change the look in resolve and no matter how precise you are, tones will shift and getting 94% in 30 minutes is better than being 99.999% in 2 hours
Is it just me.... you're actually talking about the colour meter here right? Well I think you are, because I don't believe a light meter is able to determine colour, only the intensity of light.
@@clarhettcoalfield3616 yes, same shit
@@JitDawgBruhDang Yup.... thought so.
well to each their own, however one thing i would like to point out and make clear, the meter does not take that much extra time to get precise readings. Your "2 hours" is EXTREMELY exaggerated. it's a matter of a couple seconds to take the reading and then a few more seconds to adjust the lamp. not sure where you're getting two hours from. I welcome any and all positive criticism, however, i had to make that clear. and you are right 300 degrees isn't anything, however, the difference between a thousand degrees Kelvin can make a huge difference, and goes completely unnoticed by the human eye all the time. but if you're telling me your eyeballs can tell the difference between 6500 and 5500 kelvin, then you should definitely do a video on that! in fact, rent the sekonic, and test your eyeballs, i would watch that! Cheers!
@@JustinPhillip it doesn’t take 2 hours to do a reading. It takes a couple minutes max to do the reading. But bring that lights back down, running back to the grip truck, putting lights back up, the DP says, “The light wasn’t here”, then rest the camera, rest the rig down, and moves the light again. Re-rigs, picks up camera, BOOM 2 hours.
Great stuff! Didn’t realize you shot Shadow Marsh! Small world, mind blown.
Awesome!