Just bought a WASR 10 and only checked the fro t sight before I took it home lol. Got home and immediately noticed the rear sight crooked to the left. Glad I found this video thanks
I bought that exact same gun from century. Have to ship it back to them because they forgot to drill the gas port. Took it to the range realize they were out of whack the second time and couldn't hit s***. Threw it under my bed where it's been for two years. Glad I found your video hope it helps.
Thanks for the upload man, I always enjoy your videos. On a day where you feel like crap it's always nice to get sucked into something and learn something new.
God this video is a huge lifesaver. I have a few airsoft AKs with basically the same issue I've noticed. It's good to see it's not just me who has the problem, and I don't feel like going out to get someone else to look at it when it seems like a fairly simple fix. Good to see that it IS possible to fix it.
Brand new 2021 mfg Zastava ZPAP M70 from Atlantic FA's. Front sight post was pushed all the way right as far as it could go and still was just short of zero'ing. I had the sight drum so far over to the right that it was tight up against sight base and I could not even squeeze in my Magna-Matic front sight post tool, instead having to resort to needle nose pliers to try to make elevation adjustments. Wasted alot of expensive (now more expensive due to the forthcoming import ban) ammo messing with it before finally giving up. Complained bitterly to Atlantic FA and Arms of America (importer) about their lack of QC and canted front sight bases as I could just detect a left-cant front sight base bias. Started the process to send it back for warranty service. Asked Misha at Mishaco his opinion and he said "Why send it back. Just fix it yourself". This was based on the presumption it had a canted front sight base and would likely need to have the pins drilled, be rotated, and have new pins installed. That theory went out the window, though, when I put bubble and digital levels on the body, rear sight tower sides and front sight base sides and realized none of the parts were more than 1-1/2 degrees off from the receiver (and not cumalative/stacked either). That's when I found a couple of vid's on rear sight base/leaf issues. Removed my rear sight leaf and there it was! My sight leaf pins looked exactly like yours. Left pin low, right pin very high (appeared bent). Slid off the adjuster from the end of the sight leaf. Fit the sight leaf in my vice (it just cleared the jaws at the top and bottom, along with plastic inserts to protect the finish) with the pins on top of the jaws. Placed a block of steel ( 3" x 3" x 1" perfectly square cut "anvil" I have on my bench, with sharp 90 degree shoulders) right up against the top shoulder of the upward biased right pin, whacked the steel block a couple of times with a hammer, and bent the pin down slightly. Much less to file or Dremel away from the top right and lower left pin edges to bring everything even again (that sight leaf steel is HARD). Center-locating transfer punch rod through the sight leaf mounting holes in the rear sight tower showed the holes were also nearly perfectly aligned perpendicular to the receiver, as it was with yours, so no work done on the rear sight tower mounting holes for the rear sight leaf pins. Everything went back together nicely. Front sight is now back near center to zero. And we're back in business. At least now I know it is nearly as common a problem as the canted front sight bases are. I wondered how many "issues" with canted front sight bases that folks made the adjustment at the front sight base could have actually been remedied at the rear sight leaf..... Just my .02 cents....
I'm going to look at my Zastava ZPAP M70, it's doing the same thing. I'd be scared I'd sheer off the pin if I did the way you did. I also have a VSKA doing the same thing.
Polish Tantals have a similar rear sight. Instead of two dots, its a one dot. Same thing too. Slide in tritium insert from the side. It becomes a Straight 8 night sight with the accompanying tritium front sight device.
By "Straight 8" Style, are you talking about those clip on/ flip up ones that are also used for the Beyrl? If so, I've always wondered how those are meant to be used, being its hard to tell just looking the piece alone. In low visibility, are you supposed to place the front dot on top of the rear, hence the "8" reference? Also, does it sit below the front post and illuminate it, or does it cover the actual post, with the glow tube sitting either in front of it, or below it?
Have this problem on a new arsenal! To zero, front sight drifted all the way left! Popped another sight in and it's way better (based on earlier zeroed red dot co-witness). The pins on the original sight leaf do look off.
Mine sight moves from left to right and I need to weld a little metal to it like you did. I'm not that good of welder and am afraid of messing it up and am wondering if JB Weld would work.
Mine was canted to the right, so all I had to do was remove material from the rear and top of the right nub. Now off to the range to move the sight in at closer to center! This and your CMMG/KS47 magazine videos are some of the best. Thanks for sharing your findings!
Built my AK everything looks perfectly straight. Barrel, FSP, RSB, SL. It is printing about 5-6 inches to the left and 5-6 inches low at about 30 feet. Shot it without the slant brake. Need to see if that makes a difference I guess. I have not pinned the FSP but it was a bugger to press on. Any suggestions? It's a Polish underfolder. I'm considering canting the FSP a tad to make up some of the difference. It was a royal PITA to press on. I should have polished my barrel more. 1st build.
I know this post is old, so if you resolved it I'd like to hear how, but if not..... Here are some tips: Your Rear Sight Block is likely not centered perfectly within the trunnion and leaning against 1 side, rather than having a TINY gap on each side. (Or the sight LEAF may be angled a tad, OR the Rear Block and sight leaf may look straight in comparison to the trunnion but the trunnion may be canted, which is visible with the lower handguard removed and looking from the front at how it's aligned with the receiver) These days, when vendors like Atlantic get imports that come in as sporters and have to be converted, if the trunnion, RSB, or sight leaf are canted from the Factory, being its harder to re-adjust without removing, they will "purposely" cant the Front Sight Block the same amount of distance BUT in the 'OPPOSITE direction of the Rear', being opposite directions lead to compensation, similar to straight sights. Even though not the prettiest, rather than having the Front Block straight and having to max out the windage drum (and hope that it still works further out) which if windage is 6" off at 30yds, it's probably not even gonna print at 100)... If you cannot readjust the Rear (assuming that is the issue here), you can center the front post within the bullhorns, then cant the Front Block with the post centered in the bullhorns and drift the front block until the centered post matches the bore sight laser "windage wise" at 25yds.... THEN, if the front post needs mild adjusting after test fire, it will only have to be adjusted a tad bit from the center and be pretty nicely centered within the bullhorns. ALTHOUGH, it all depends on your preference and what you can live with: (Canted Front Sight Block with a mostly centered front post VS a straight/slightly canted Front Sight Block with maxed out or near maxed out windage) But yea, lots of Canting these days by importers being they seem to prefer the end user to have a canted Front block rather than risking the actual sight post not being able to zero... Likely saves them from having things returned, like back in the day when things were canted without rhyme or reason.
@@tonynorris1506 Hey Tony thanks so much for responding and providing quality explanation and advice! I left this rifle in the closet for a few years. I pressed the FSB off a couple months ago and took it to the range and canted the FSB until it printed in line vertically with windage adjustment in the center. Haven't pressed it the rest of the way on or pinned it. It didn't take that much and is barely noticeable that it is canted. It's a 1986 Polish Circle 11 that I slow rust blued all of the parts individually. I have studied it pretty closely. The rear sight block has no clearance on the left side. I pressed the pin out and tried to move the RSB to the right with a mallet and in the vice but it wasn't budging. I left it alone. One of the more interesting things is that the front trunnion seems to be drilled at an angle to the left. When the receiver is straight the barrel points left. when the barrel is straight the receiver angles right. The trunnion looks completely square in the receiver any way that I look at it. I think my barrel is straight. Have studied that a lot. I think I'm going to just let it be corrected with a slight cant in the front post. It's an underfolder and as long as it looks good and can hit a plate at 50-100 yards I don't think I'm going to spend too much time on it. My eyesight is not that great for shooting anyway. I have a few builds to work on. Have a Yugo M70 milled, a Yugo M72 to build as a carbine, a nice Romanian parts kit to build, and a Czech VZ58 to build. I have been dragging my feet on rust bluing, but I plan to rust blue these builds. The M72 and Romanian build just need blued barrels and receivers. I've learned that there are a lot more things to study during the build process than I paid attention to on the Polish build.
@@Troubleshooter-2.0 yes! Apparently canted trunnions can cause angled barrels, but often this is still considered "in spec" I have a Beyrl where they made the bolt has a LOT of downward droop and play, and when it goes into battery, I notice it shifts either left of right (I forget) once locking into battery when viewing through the magwell, so I'm thinking the barrel face isn't flush with the bolt, and the slack in the bolt stem was done at the factory so that it could self align... (Which would make sense as to why NOTHING seems to align with other parts, every external component is aligned differently!) There are a LOT of factory hacks/bandaid fixes, but when a build has several canted things it's can be hard to pinpoint the catalyst for many, so I always start with the trunnion, and THEN the RSB.... Normally everything forward of that is canted to compensate (gas block will match the RSB lean to prevent scrubbing, and the the front sight will be canted the opposite way of the rear (unless a canted trunnion, then the rear and front may appear to be aligned in the same canted direction) I learned that Atlantic does this with the Fox, Jack and Beyrl stuff when they come in Sporter config, being they don't want to risk returns due to things not zeroing. I've also heard the RSB in many can be hard to drift and often require a Real hammer (which you may have to be cautious with) but if it was easy, the conversion teams would correct that instead of everything in front of it. Although if your trunnion is angled, the RSV probably needs to lean the opposite way, whatever compensates for all of the angles at hand. (I think many parts have the pin holes drilled at an angle on accident, as I've even noticed this on mag catches and the rear lug if the mag will wear the paint 'off-center' being one side with be twisted forward more, and often one side of the top will be higher than the other) All in all, sounds like your best fix is canting the entire Front block so that the windage post can be close to centered when bore sighting, and only require minor changes when testing. Maybe do not pin it unless after live fire, so that if it the windage had adjusted a tad to get on target, u can always drift the front Block over that same amount, and bring the sight post back to center, so that the overall front cant is as minimal as possible. In the end, you'll naturally just shoulder it and tilt the rifle a tad on your shoulder to make the front align straight, even if the receiver isn't being held flush. I'm no builder either, I've just followed trends of "these are arrow straight, buy one" and I nearly always land an extremely canted platform.... Just my luck. Although if looking for the silver lining, it has taught me a few things. The companies will say "if it can zero, that's all that matters, they aren't meant to be pretty" although I just find that funny after the description for the high ticket stuff (Arsenl, FB, ect) is described as being top QC and NOT canted like cheaper builds. Lol Oh well. Hope it works out man, Underfolders are nice and a new one would be even more inflated than current stuff, so if it works, be proud of your build man.
My AB-2 Yugo's front sight is slightly canted over and the rear sight is also slightly crooked. I can live with it because it shoots as straight as a die - the only problem being my own eyes! LOL
why do the two grooves where the rear sights sits on dont look even? i have the same thing on my rifle. The rear sight only makes contact with one of them. Is it supposed to be like? i was going to even them out myself but i dont know if it make like that
Can you fix my AK's rear sight please? Lol. I have an AK63DS and the rear sight block is slightly canted to the left. Is it possible to hit it with a rubber mallet to center it? I'm sure there isn't an easy fix but I hesitate to send it back to Century knowing it will take months to get it back from them...
I haven't fired this one yet, but the front sight post is dead center. Won't know until I shoot it how far off it could be. If everything else is straight, it should shoot straight.
Job well done. This is how its done. Craftsmanship and patience. Thanks for sharing!!!
Just bought a WASR 10 and only checked the fro t sight before I took it home lol. Got home and immediately noticed the rear sight crooked to the left. Glad I found this video thanks
Bravo, sir! This was one of the most satisfying RUclips videos I've watched in the past two years.
I bought that exact same gun from century. Have to ship it back to them because they forgot to drill the gas port. Took it to the range realize they were out of whack the second time and couldn't hit s***. Threw it under my bed where it's been for two years. Glad I found your video hope it helps.
EXCELLENT. I didn't think there was going to be a way to fix mine until I stumbled across your video. Learned a LOT. Thank you!
When I see a new video release from you I know I'm going to learn something new and very informative!!!
Awesome work!
Between your videos and Mel64d's videos, I'm going to have a fun time this Fall building my first AK!
Thanks for the upload man, I always enjoy your videos. On a day where you feel like crap it's always nice to get sucked into something and learn something new.
God this video is a huge lifesaver. I have a few airsoft AKs with basically the same issue I've noticed. It's good to see it's not just me who has the problem, and I don't feel like going out to get someone else to look at it when it seems like a fairly simple fix. Good to see that it IS possible to fix it.
Nice job! Ive learned something today. AKs can have some quirks..you handled yours well.👍
Great video and work. This is exactly why I’ve gotten into ak’s, really like the mechanical features
Brand new 2021 mfg Zastava ZPAP M70 from Atlantic FA's. Front sight post was pushed all the way right as far as it could go and still was just short of zero'ing. I had the sight drum so far over to the right that it was tight up against sight base and I could not even squeeze in my Magna-Matic front sight post tool, instead having to resort to needle nose pliers to try to make elevation adjustments. Wasted alot of expensive (now more expensive due to the forthcoming import ban) ammo messing with it before finally giving up.
Complained bitterly to Atlantic FA and Arms of America (importer) about their lack of QC and canted front sight bases as I could just detect a left-cant front sight base bias. Started the process to send it back for warranty service. Asked Misha at Mishaco his opinion and he said "Why send it back. Just fix it yourself". This was based on the presumption it had a canted front sight base and would likely need to have the pins drilled, be rotated, and have new pins installed.
That theory went out the window, though, when I put bubble and digital levels on the body, rear sight tower sides and front sight base sides and realized none of the parts were more than 1-1/2 degrees off from the receiver (and not cumalative/stacked either). That's when I found a couple of vid's on rear sight base/leaf issues. Removed my rear sight leaf and there it was! My sight leaf pins looked exactly like yours. Left pin low, right pin very high (appeared bent).
Slid off the adjuster from the end of the sight leaf. Fit the sight leaf in my vice (it just cleared the jaws at the top and bottom, along with plastic inserts to protect the finish) with the pins on top of the jaws. Placed a block of steel ( 3" x 3" x 1" perfectly square cut "anvil" I have on my bench, with sharp 90 degree shoulders) right up against the top shoulder of the upward biased right pin, whacked the steel block a couple of times with a hammer, and bent the pin down slightly. Much less to file or Dremel away from the top right and lower left pin edges to bring everything even again (that sight leaf steel is HARD). Center-locating transfer punch rod through the sight leaf mounting holes in the rear sight tower showed the holes were also nearly perfectly aligned perpendicular to the receiver, as it was with yours, so no work done on the rear sight tower mounting holes for the rear sight leaf pins.
Everything went back together nicely. Front sight is now back near center to zero. And we're back in business. At least now I know it is nearly as common a problem as the canted front sight bases are. I wondered how many "issues" with canted front sight bases that folks made the adjustment at the front sight base could have actually been remedied at the rear sight leaf.....
Just my .02 cents....
I'm going to look at my Zastava ZPAP M70, it's doing the same thing. I'd be scared I'd sheer off the pin if I did the way you did. I also have a VSKA doing the same thing.
Thank u great video very informative just what I needed
Thank you for all of your videos!!!
Polish Tantals have a similar rear sight. Instead of two dots, its a one dot. Same thing too. Slide in tritium insert from the side. It becomes a Straight 8 night sight with the accompanying tritium front sight device.
You know, I have a Tantal, but I haven't had it out of the safe in years. I'll have to look at it to see what sight it has.
By "Straight 8" Style, are you talking about those clip on/ flip up ones that are also used for the Beyrl?
If so, I've always wondered how those are meant to be used, being its hard to tell just looking the piece alone.
In low visibility, are you supposed to place the front dot on top of the rear, hence the "8" reference?
Also, does it sit below the front post and illuminate it, or does it cover the actual post, with the glow tube sitting either in front of it, or below it?
Have this problem on a new arsenal! To zero, front sight drifted all the way left! Popped another sight in and it's way better (based on earlier zeroed red dot co-witness). The pins on the original sight leaf do look off.
did you buy a new front sight to fix this issue?
Mine sight moves from left to right and I need to weld a little metal to it like you did. I'm not that good of welder and am afraid of messing it up and am wondering if JB Weld would work.
Digging all the new videos dude, man.
Nicely done
@ginsboy2003 Curious what size wire and other settings you used to add metal. Thanks
Is there a chance that you would repair mine century build yugo, The trunion rivets are loose, If you don't do such work would you recommend someone ?
Do you do ak74 repairs gunsmithing on the side do you ?
I have the same gun - same issue. This video really helped!
Sorry you have the same issues, but glad the video could help!
Mine was canted to the right, so all I had to do was remove material from the rear and top of the right nub. Now off to the range to move the sight in at closer to center!
This and your CMMG/KS47 magazine videos are some of the best. Thanks for sharing your findings!
Thanks, I'm glad you like them. I love the reliability I get from my Mutant over my 7.62x39 AR pistol. 7.62x39 AR mags are a whole other bag of worms.
Built my AK everything looks perfectly straight. Barrel, FSP, RSB, SL. It is printing about 5-6 inches to the left and 5-6 inches low at about 30 feet. Shot it without the slant brake. Need to see if that makes a difference I guess. I have not pinned the FSP but it was a bugger to press on. Any suggestions? It's a Polish underfolder. I'm considering canting the FSP a tad to make up some of the difference. It was a royal PITA to press on. I should have polished my barrel more. 1st build.
I know this post is old, so if you resolved it I'd like to hear how, but if not..... Here are some tips:
Your Rear Sight Block is likely not centered perfectly within the trunnion and leaning against 1 side, rather than having a TINY gap on each side.
(Or the sight LEAF may be angled a tad, OR the Rear Block and sight leaf may look straight in comparison to the trunnion but the trunnion may be canted, which is visible with the lower handguard removed and looking from the front at how it's aligned with the receiver)
These days, when vendors like Atlantic get imports that come in as sporters and have to be converted, if the trunnion, RSB, or sight leaf are canted from the Factory, being its harder to re-adjust without removing, they will "purposely" cant the Front Sight Block the same amount of distance BUT in the 'OPPOSITE direction of the Rear', being opposite directions lead to compensation, similar to straight sights.
Even though not the prettiest, rather than having the Front Block straight and having to max out the windage drum (and hope that it still works further out) which if windage is 6" off at 30yds, it's probably not even gonna print at 100)...
If you cannot readjust the Rear (assuming that is the issue here), you can center the front post within the bullhorns, then cant the Front Block with the post centered in the bullhorns and drift the front block until the centered post matches the bore sight laser "windage wise" at 25yds....
THEN,
if the front post needs mild adjusting after test fire, it will only have to be adjusted a tad bit from the center and be pretty nicely centered within the bullhorns.
ALTHOUGH, it all depends on your preference and what you can live with:
(Canted Front Sight Block with a mostly centered front post VS a straight/slightly canted Front Sight Block with maxed out or near maxed out windage)
But yea, lots of Canting these days by importers being they seem to prefer the end user to have a canted Front block rather than risking the actual sight post not being able to zero... Likely saves them from having things returned, like back in the day when things were canted without rhyme or reason.
@@tonynorris1506 Hey Tony thanks so much for responding and providing quality explanation and advice!
I left this rifle in the closet for a few years. I pressed the FSB off a couple months ago and took it to the range and canted the FSB until it printed in line vertically with windage adjustment in the center. Haven't pressed it the rest of the way on or pinned it. It didn't take that much and is barely noticeable that it is canted.
It's a 1986 Polish Circle 11 that I slow rust blued all of the parts individually. I have studied it pretty closely. The rear sight block has no clearance on the left side. I pressed the pin out and tried to move the RSB to the right with a mallet and in the vice but it wasn't budging. I left it alone.
One of the more interesting things is that the front trunnion seems to be drilled at an angle to the left. When the receiver is straight the barrel points left. when the barrel is straight the receiver angles right. The trunnion looks completely square in the receiver any way that I look at it. I think my barrel is straight. Have studied that a lot.
I think I'm going to just let it be corrected with a slight cant in the front post. It's an underfolder and as long as it looks good and can hit a plate at 50-100 yards I don't think I'm going to spend too much time on it. My eyesight is not that great for shooting anyway.
I have a few builds to work on. Have a Yugo M70 milled, a Yugo M72 to build as a carbine, a nice Romanian parts kit to build, and a Czech VZ58 to build. I have been dragging my feet on rust bluing, but I plan to rust blue these builds. The M72 and Romanian build just need blued barrels and receivers.
I've learned that there are a lot more things to study during the build process than I paid attention to on the Polish build.
@@Troubleshooter-2.0 yes! Apparently canted trunnions can cause angled barrels, but often this is still considered "in spec"
I have a Beyrl where they made the bolt has a LOT of downward droop and play, and when it goes into battery, I notice it shifts either left of right (I forget) once locking into battery when viewing through the magwell, so I'm thinking the barrel face isn't flush with the bolt, and the slack in the bolt stem was done at the factory so that it could self align...
(Which would make sense as to why NOTHING seems to align with other parts, every external component is aligned differently!)
There are a LOT of factory hacks/bandaid fixes, but when a build has several canted things it's can be hard to pinpoint the catalyst for many, so I always start with the trunnion, and THEN the RSB....
Normally everything forward of that is canted to compensate (gas block will match the RSB lean to prevent scrubbing, and the the front sight will be canted the opposite way of the rear (unless a canted trunnion, then the rear and front may appear to be aligned in the same canted direction)
I learned that Atlantic does this with the Fox, Jack and Beyrl stuff when they come in Sporter config, being they don't want to risk returns due to things not zeroing.
I've also heard the RSB in many can be hard to drift and often require a Real hammer (which you may have to be cautious with) but if it was easy, the conversion teams would correct that instead of everything in front of it.
Although if your trunnion is angled, the RSV probably needs to lean the opposite way, whatever compensates for all of the angles at hand.
(I think many parts have the pin holes drilled at an angle on accident, as I've even noticed this on mag catches and the rear lug if the mag will wear the paint 'off-center' being one side with be twisted forward more, and often one side of the top will be higher than the other)
All in all, sounds like your best fix is canting the entire Front block so that the windage post can be close to centered when bore sighting, and only require minor changes when testing. Maybe do not pin it unless after live fire, so that if it the windage had adjusted a tad to get on target, u can always drift the front Block over that same amount, and bring the sight post back to center, so that the overall front cant is as minimal as possible.
In the end, you'll naturally just shoulder it and tilt the rifle a tad on your shoulder to make the front align straight, even if the receiver isn't being held flush.
I'm no builder either, I've just followed trends of "these are arrow straight, buy one" and I nearly always land an extremely canted platform.... Just my luck.
Although if looking for the silver lining, it has taught me a few things.
The companies will say "if it can zero, that's all that matters, they aren't meant to be pretty" although I just find that funny after the description for the high ticket stuff (Arsenl, FB, ect) is described as being top QC and NOT canted like cheaper builds. Lol
Oh well.
Hope it works out man, Underfolders are nice and a new one would be even more inflated than current stuff, so if it works, be proud of your build man.
What size drill rod is that you used ?
Nice work
My AB-2 Yugo's front sight is slightly canted over and the rear sight is also slightly crooked. I can live with it because it shoots as straight as a die - the only problem being my own eyes! LOL
On my m70 it's not the leaf it's the actual block
why do the two grooves where the rear sights sits on dont look even? i have the same thing on my rifle. The rear sight only makes contact with one of them. Is it supposed to be like? i was going to even them out myself but i dont know if it make like that
It is just a casting flaw. As long as you are on target it won't hurt.
Do you have a source for the tritium inserts?
Good fix man.
The hell with all that just but a new sight
Very Nice.
Very informative
Am i correct in my assumption that this fix would also work on the sks?
I'm two years late but yes. Lol
Can you fix my AK's rear sight please? Lol. I have an AK63DS and the rear sight block is slightly canted to the left. Is it possible to hit it with a rubber mallet to center it? I'm sure there isn't an easy fix but I hesitate to send it back to Century knowing it will take months to get it back from them...
Yes you can try hitting it to see if it moves, I've never done it but I know people who have. It doesn't work that often. Be careful.
Wont your front sight be off now?
I haven't fired this one yet, but the front sight post is dead center. Won't know until I shoot it how far off it could be. If everything else is straight, it should shoot straight.
You should of clamped it in the mill, took both tabs off. Drilled it and pressed in a new cross pin that's square to the sight leaf
bad , bad work by century