Love this, when I build my cabinet I use the old method of putting in slats and then using the nail gun to attach the ends, the pocket hole thing is strong but the amount of work to make it look good is what keeps me away from it. But I get why you did it this way. :D
Couldn't have been better timing. Learned a lot and ended up purchasing a pocket hole screw jig. Best video on youtube that I have been able to find on the subject. Not only is it extensive, it is knowledgeable and helpful. Thanks!
Thanks Alice! Just trying to contribute to the vpin community and provide a great source of information for people wanting to build their own vpin cab. If you deem me worthy, I'd really appreciate a share out on your social media so I can help more people. Thanks for the watch!
@@wayofthewrench Currently I have no social media presence. However, I am making a VPIN table so I can test a pinball game of mine and when it released there will definitely be a mention in the "Special Thanks" section. Its officially written down in my notes. Thank you again.
Woah! That's awesome! What is the name and genre of the pinball table? What program is it in? VPX? Future Pinball? That would be really cool to be in the special thanks section! Cheers!
@@wayofthewrench It'll be a unity game. So ya, everything is going to be scratch made from unity and not a pinball program. I'm guessing it'll be some time til beta but I will keep you updated when I do release beta! Keep doing your thing, I'm weak when it comes to the physical building aspect but I've learned so much, thank you.
Nice, I have been playing a lot of Unity designed games lately. You ever play Stranded Deep? Soooooo good. Yeah I can't wait to see this game! No worries, I'm just happy to help people out there like your self, enjoy the content!
Your videos on the pinball cab build are excellent! You are quite the teacher and your students are fortunate to have you - as are we out here in YT land!
Thank you very much for your kind words, I really appreciate them. I work way too hard on these videos and stress about the details but it is all worth it when I get comments like these. If you deem me worthy, I would really appreciate it if you could share my channel on your social media so I can help more people. Thanks again and thanks for the watch!
Thank you for these very helpfull videos, I built one a couple of years back with no knowledge. My next builds gonna be super with your help from these videos, many thanks.
Have you seen the video of the guy who takes a oven door and sections it to use as a custom lock down bar? The corners are nice and rounded, and with your skills you could weld it up nicely.
Yes I have, it's a pretty good idea. I have a couple ideas too for a no welding lockbar for people who don't weld and a welded version, I might make 2 videos. Thanks for the suggestion!
Another great video. I am tracking pretty even with my build and watching these videos keeps it exciting. I just installed my artwork on the cabinet and wow did that make a huge difference for mine. As noted before, thank you for leaving in some of the challenges with building stuff and the errors which often happen to all of us. Sometimes other videos get so edited but working through the bumps and seeing such a great result is nice. I look forward to the next one. cheers
That's cool that you were building along with mine. What artwork did you go with? Is it custom artwork that you did? I still need to figure out mine, I kinda wanted to do TOTAN but a custom Way of the Wrench graphic would be cool too. Yeah that sudden tear out was a mistake but ya know what, they happen to everyone. This is my first vpin cab so there's bound to be some hiccups. Thanks for the watch bruh and good luck on your build!
@@wayofthewrench My two 20+ sons have been quite interested and one of them designed an everything Star Wars design using Photoshop. The artwork came last weekend and we applied to a painted semi-gloss black cabinet and it came out amazing. It completely looks like a professional cabinet (although the guts etc. still need some work). I am sure you could do a perfect "Way of the Wrench" design that would crush it. Paul at VirtualPin has a template that you use to apply the artwork to stay within the boundaries and it perfectly fits a standard Williams or Widebody (perhaps others too). Then he printed and sent and the results seem amazing. I think it was around $150 USD so may be cheaper options but results very good. Cheers and keep up the videos (I set the bell to catch all of them).
Sounds awesome, I'd love to see some pics of your cabinet. Send em to my Instagram. Yeah I need to get on that, I should shoot Paul an email for the PS template although I'll have to see if I can add an inch and a half for my slightly wider than widebody cabinet. You apply it dry or wet method?
This is BY FAR the best tutorial on how to build something I have ever saw. Thanks for the plans, I am really confident that I can do it. All the problem solving and planning ahead. 100/10 man. And the pace in your voice is good. I am Brazillian and I could understand everything, the measuments and all crearly. Thanks. Subscribed. And nice garage!
Thank you very much Peter! Ya you should totally build a vpin! I'm glad you liked my teaching style and my channel content, maybe you can share out my channel to your friends in Brazil? That would be much appreciated! Thanks for the subscribe and your kind words. Cheers from Canada!
Another great video. You have a wonderful teaching style. Thanks for even including the bit where the wood tore out on the pocket hole; it helps us beginners realize that thing even happened to skilled craftsmen! Lol
Thanks John! I just try to explain what I'm doing in a very clear and logical way that I think most people will understand and learn from. It helps that it is a cool project and so many people wanna build one of these! Yeah that sucked about the clamp but like ya said it happens sometimes and ya just deal with it. One of the best things any good tradesperson should have is their ability to always improve and learn from their mistakes.....otherwise how do you get better? Thanks for your support for the channel John, take it easy!
25:57 - I feel that pain, been there before! Cheers to showing that even the most experienced people have things like this happen. "I can fix that" - love the reaction. Said this to you on IG but really appreciate the videos! Can't wait to see them blow past 100k views (and beyond).
Yeah that was a horrible moment but a really cool one for the video. Really it was an easy fix so no biggie. Yes! That would be cool to see the channel blow up but I'm still waiting and plugging along. Thanks for the watch!
Very cool... one thing I would of done to make it look nice is to put a small piece between the playfield and backbox (to lift the backbox from the cabinet), just to separate the two, look more original.
Ya know, you nailed it right on the head. As it turns out I missed the part in the mjrnet plans that has the top piece of the cabinet having a rabbet which would raise the back box 3/8". So I had to cut a piece of 3/8" plywood to put between the two and plug/redrill the back box hinge pivot holes. I make note of this is a future video coming out soon. Thanks for the suggestion and the watch!
It kinda is, at least once you have all the info you need like in the video. Just take your time and you'll do great. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
Looks super nice 👍 I have too much to do right now but when I have time I am going to build one. Not a full size capinett maybe a 32 inch playfield. Great tutorial!
Thanks Bruh! Yeah its a pretty cool project, you should totally build one! You could do what I did and start looking for deals on monitors and a pc/pc parts so that you can slowly start the design process. Then when you have time, your good to go. Thanks for the watch, cheers!
Awesome Jason, you should totally do both.....then you'll have a home arcade. If you build it, they will come. If you do, I'd love to see some pics when you're done!
You are so welcome! Thanks for watching them! If you cut the spine off at a 90 degree cut out, it should fold around a 90 degree corner but with a slight radius added to the outside. I plan on softening those sharp corners a little bit, maybe like a 1/4 radius or so just with sand paper on a sanding block. It's funny because most of the pinball cabinets I have been looking at don't even go around the corners. they just put the t molding on the front and that's it. I like the full wrap though, I think it will look more polished/finished and not cheaped out. Cheers!
Just found your channel, and your videos really grow on a person. Good that you leave your mistakes in, and this really helps like you know people watching understand what can go wrong, even if your experienced in doing that job. I was sceptical at first watching your videos, but i have to say that your videos do grow on you. I like the way you explain every step, and you left your mistakes in, so people can see not everything will ever be perfect, and you have to adapt to the situation when making something, as no matter how well you plan this sort of thing, things will come up in making it, that you never thought off. So good videos overall. I was fairly sceptical at first on your videos, as watching others, makes it seem so perfect, and they want people to believe that everything they do will always be perfect first time. Good for you, for leaving your mistakes in, and your videos sure do grow on a person watching with this style you have. Like i said, when you have seen many on youtube doing such vids, and they want to pretend that all they do is perfect, its a nice change to see a person leave there mistakes in, so you can show people how you adapt to these mistakes in making something. Have to say this, as i am glad you did have a different style then most. I would suspect most youtubers only show all there perfect work, and edit out any mistakes, and you show, that leaving in your mistakes, that it draws people attention into your videos. I also like the way your videos show, to make one of these is alot of work, and effort. Most youtube video creators want people to believe it can be done in 5mins.
Thank you very much! Yeah there is a ton of work that go into these videos and yes, everyone makes mistakes. Sometimes the best way to learn is by making mistakes so I try to show everything so you guys know exactly what you need to know to be able to make these projects or weld or work on your vehicle. Thanks for the watch!
Yeah that was definitely off script and as bad as it looks, a little glue, a 3M clamp (masking tape), and a quick sanding and it was back to good as knew. Thanks for the watch!
Thanks for the great video! Watching to see how this turns out, thinking about taking the trip to making my own. When is the next video coming out for this series?
You're welcome Mike! You should totally make a vpin cab! Way too much fun to be had. I have a plasma cutting project video out next week, then a how to inspect disc brakes video 2 weeks after, and then the pinball legs/drilling jigs video drops. Thanks for the interest, you're the forth person to ask in the last couple days....I must be doing something right. Thanks for the watch. Cheers!
Hi,I'm going to use 18mm ply for my cab, and will simply screw them together (sides to the bottom etc),will 40mm long screws be OK to put the cab together?,thanking you in advance.
I would highly recommend gluing and screwing in some reinforcement with glue blocks on the inside to beef up the screwed corners.....they won't be enough in the long term. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
Yes I will in the future, it will probably be a full playlist from start to finish with all the little theory info too. Thanks for the suggestion Lukas.....now get back to work putting your engine together! LOL.
Great job liked your video. Sorry if this feels like criticism it is not. Hopefully this will save you time. If you were going to hinge the back box it will not work. What is needed is a 3/4” lip at the top of you cabinet. You can fix this really easy by adding an additional peace of 3/4” plywood to step it up. Hopefully you have not drilled your back box hinges yet. I made this mistake in 2015.
No no none taken, this is my first vpin build so I'm totally open to suggestions. I actually did your mistake and just went ahead with it. I just realized that the mjrnet plans are for a rabbet joint on the top 3/4" piece which would make it stick up a 3/8". Do you know if the 3/8" above is not enough? I just made up the 3/8" piece but still have to glue it on the top but I already plugged/redrilled the back box hinge holes for the added 3/8" piece. I should temporarily clamp it on and see if it works, mind you I'm not too concerned about it fully closing but it would be ideal. Thanks for your suggestion and the watch! Cheers!
@@wayofthewrench Not sure about the 3/8 measurement. When I realized I messed up. I cut a new 3/4” plywood for the top. I mirrored my cut outs for cabling I then place it on top of my existing top glued and screwed. The overall look of it was not noticeable as a mistake after I put in the glass channel reciever I did drill my holes for my hinges already so I filled them up with plywood plugs and glue and sanded them away. This is going to be a great first cabinet. The next will be even better.
Yeah you did what I just did except I did 3/8" so I guess I'm gonna find out, I'll let ya know. Thanks, I'm really looking forward to my cabinet. I've been playing a lot of pinball in local places and on ps4 but can't wait for this build to be complete.
Well I just checked....3/8" isn't quite enough so you are probably right about it needing 3/4". Not sure I'm going to change it a third time but will definitely tell people in the future video. Thanks for the heads up!
First of all, that Jig is awesome, $175 ouch ! Anyway, I am thinking about doing mine in particle board, just because the fact that I plan to skin and the price point. Will that work well with doing pocket holes? No question, I would do the wood blocks as well, that would keep it rock solid.
I do not recommend using particle board as it will dampen all of the ssf vibrations and personally I think particle board is junk. It has it's uses but here is not one of them. You will have to sand an enormous amount to get it smooth enough to not see every chunk through your vinyl. Don't do it CoolDave! Pony up and at least find plywood if not cabinet grade plywood. Should be about 150-200$ CAN. Cheers!
Just curious... i am in the process of assembly my cabinet and there is a slight bow in my 3/4 inch plywood side panel. might be an issue when i install the glass. So my solution is to put in two Side panel to side panel cross braces (2x4), just below the monitor support frame. This will pull in the slight bow and provide additional support for the monitor support frame.... or should i just replace the bowed side panel with a "straight piece" .. your thoughts
Can you please explain to me why you need the complicated angled screws. You still need to fill the holes & it will be wrapped anyway. Your a Legend so there must be a good reason but my brain can't work it out. I would have thought just drilling in the side at 90 degrees would have been stronger & so much easier? Can't wait for your next video on the epic build!
If you run screws into the edge of the plywood, it has horrible strength, unless you screw into the 1" x 1" glue blocks which is exactly how I did my arcade cabinet. There is absolutely nothing wrong with doing it that way. In the video I explained that and said I wanted to try/learn/teach something new for everyone, including myself. Now the pocket screws could have been done from the inside and there would have been no holes to fill on the outside, however, when I made a test piece and did some research, it was way stronger from the outside. So to me, it is extra work to fill/sand them but the end result is a stronger/longer lasting cabinet. Especially with the glue up blocks.....it's bulletproof! I might not even fill the holes on the top of the back box or the ones on the back of the cabinet because you literally will never look at them. Then again, I'm a glutton for punishment, so I might...lol. Thanks for the watch. Legend out!
@@wayofthewrench Kreg sells plugs that fit the pocket holes, or you can cut your own using a 3/8" dowel and a flush cutting hand saw. A dab of glue and a bit of sanding and the pocket holes are all but invisible once filled with a plug. On a side note, I met Craig Sommerfeld and bought one of his original K-2 Kreg Jigs at a woodworking equipment show back in 1990. Nice guy, and it's cool to see how big Kreg Tools has grown since then. At the time he was a one man operation selling his jigs off of a card table at trade shows like the one I attended.
I used the screws that are in the kit for 3/4" plywood interior ones. Yeah I filmed it to teach people how to use it and see if Kreg would reach out but I didn't hear anything. Thanks for the watch and your support for the channel!
Really appreciate your videos and right in the middle of my build over the holiday (here in the US) - question for you: why did you put your pocket screw holes on the outside? Is it because you're going to vinyl wrap later in your build? edit: nm I saw your answer around 5:48 - looks like you fill them with wood filler and sand later on. I had also realized that you get more grip by angling them down into the material rather than towards the edge (if they were reversed) which you also confirmed.
Yeah I got a lot of flack for this but I did the test and I went for better strength rather than hiding holes, especially since I was going to fill/sand/vinyl over it anyways. If you deem me worthy, I'd really appreciate it if you could share out my channel on your social media so I can help more people. Thanks for the watch and your support for the channel!
The sides should be the same but the front panel and back box are bigger to accommodate the tv. Plans are in the video description. Thanks for the watch!
You can clamp and predrill holes for screws too, I was just trying to show another method.....it is also way faster. Really if you do it right, you don't need and nails or screws, they just hold the wood in place while the glue dries. Thanks for the watch!
Very nice build! Also very nicely explained although I have plenty of experience myself I got a few tricks along the journey. 👍🏻 One thing I am curious about. I noticed that most of the pocket holes are on the outside. Is there a specific reason for this? I usually make them on the inside, because it saves an awful lot of cleaning up and filling later.
That Bruh! Glad you enjoyed the video and got some new tricks to add to your game. When I made two test pieces that was held together with pocket hole screws, there was significantly more strength when the pocket hole screws were put into the inside rather than the outer edge. So based off that I put mine from the outside. Its not that big a deal as I need to sand the outside of the cabinet anyways so a little wood fill/bondo and it'll be mint. Thanks for the watch!
I love watching your videos. I’m confused on one thing, why do I need to add 3/8” if not doing a rabbit? Do I add this to both the rear top and front top of the sides?
The 3/8" is to raise the blackbox enough to be able to swing it down onto the playfield. On my design because I made the blackbox wider, it needs even more....like maybe 3/4". Mine doesn't swing down fully. Thanks for the watch!
If I'm just wanting to drill holes from the outside and screw straight into the ply... not pocket holes... Is there any tips for do's and don'ts? Like best screws to use.. how far to drill.. how far to counter sink etc?
Hrmmm let's see. Predrill the holes for the screws just so the body of the screw passes but the teeth can fully grab. Countersink your screw holes so the head of the screw sits just below the surface once tightened. Use screws that are long enough to go through the 3/4" sides and into the glue block/batton or the other side at 90 degrees. The batton will have more strength if you can go into that....plus the glue joint. If you watch my arcade cabinet assembly video, you'll see exactly what your asking about because that's how I did that one. Cheers!
@@wayofthewrench yeah I've watched that... I'm planning to screw through the side of the ply into the ply in joining to.. and then glue blocks in for bracing... rather than screwing into batons..
Yeah I wouldn't suggest that as you are screwing into end/edge grain which isn't as strong in plywood. I highly recommend you glue screw/brad nail a batton in and then the other piece screws into that. It will be way stronger and the plywood plies won't seperate.
@@wayofthewrench hrmm.. maybe i will do the pocket holes then.... but the tools are gonna cost me a couple hundred more lol...Do you think go for the corner clamp or the pocket hole clamp?
Ya know it all costs money but think about the price of your experience/learning...it's priceless. Plus you get to keep he tools and your next project will benefit from having these tools and the experience.....it just keeps getting better and better. Either work, I bought the pocket hole clamp but there might be a benefit for buying both. Good luck Chris!
Probably watched this whole video 3 times now, but I just noticed you had an access panel in the back of the topbox as well as the main cab. Was that just to make putting it together easier? Were you doing the same as the cabinet with the hinged door?
Yes the backbox has a hatch too just like the bottom. It will be in the backbox video if you're looking for the info. It came in super handy to mount the monitors and put in speakers, etc. Thanks for the watch!
@@wayofthewrench Sweet cheers dude. I didnt have one in my designs but makes sense to make things easier when building. I remember one of your videos saying everything would come out of the front so i didnt put one in mine.
Cool thanks dude. I could be wrong but I thought in the backbox video you talked about the whole back panel being removable, not having an access panel, but I think access panel will be better to give the backbox more strength so I'll probably go that route too!
not 100% sure what I said in the video but I might have changed my mind while making it. You technically could leave the back free to remove out but it would be way less stable overall. With it glue/screwed in and the hatch, you leave a frame around to keep it square and solid while still being able to access the inside. I used the same technique of plunge cutting with a jigsaw in order to cut it out and it worked out great. Well worth the extra effort and the cost of the hinge. Cheers!
Technically they are not required but they add so much rigidity that the cabinet is bulletproof. So it's cheap and easy insurance for the cabinet to last way longer than even factory ones. Thanks for the watch!
@@wayofthewrench Thanks for the reply,but wouldn't it make more sense to have them right up against the sides?,or am I missing something obvious here?..... By the way your pinball series has been outstanding;thanks for all the work you have put in;not only in building the machine,but all the video editing, uploading...etc etc.Well done.
Yes they are glued right into the corners so they touch/support the sides. Thanks! I work really hard on these videos so it's always nice to hear back from subscribers. Cheers!
lol...maybe. Keep in mind you can buy the $25 dollar one, it just takes longer. I bought this cause it will help again with future builds for the home and the channel. I was a good jig but I felt it was a bit flimsy feeling on the way the sides attached to the main part. I was thinking I might mount the jig to a board and screw the floating sides down so they are more sturdy for the long term. Thanks for the watch!
shouldn't you have put all the pocket holes for your bottom cabinet piece on the bottom side of the cabinet and not on the top of the bottom side? In the way you did it, the screws are going into less meat of the wood. You did it correctly on the backbox.
There is a 1 inch space underneath the bottom piece so either way it is the same strength. The bottom also sits on top of the 1" glue blocks too for tons of strength. The reason why I put the pocket holes on the top was because if I put them on the bottom, the glue blocks would block access to the screws in case they need tightened later in life. Thanks for the watch!
Nothing makes me want to get started on my cab more than watching one of your videos. Thanks!
Nothing makes me want to keep going on my cabinet build like hearing great comments like these! Cheers!
Love this, when I build my cabinet I use the old method of putting in slats and then using the nail gun to attach the ends, the pocket hole thing is strong but the amount of work to make it look good is what keeps me away from it. But I get why you did it this way. :D
Yeah there's lots of ways to build a cabinet, that works too as I used that on my arcade cabinet. Thanks for the watch!
Couldn't have been better timing. Learned a lot and ended up purchasing a pocket hole screw jig. Best video on youtube that I have been able to find on the subject. Not only is it extensive, it is knowledgeable and helpful. Thanks!
Thanks Alice! Just trying to contribute to the vpin community and provide a great source of information for people wanting to build their own vpin cab. If you deem me worthy, I'd really appreciate a share out on your social media so I can help more people. Thanks for the watch!
@@wayofthewrench Currently I have no social media presence. However, I am making a VPIN table so I can test a pinball game of mine and when it released there will definitely be a mention in the "Special Thanks" section. Its officially written down in my notes. Thank you again.
Woah! That's awesome! What is the name and genre of the pinball table? What program is it in? VPX? Future Pinball? That would be really cool to be in the special thanks section! Cheers!
@@wayofthewrench It'll be a unity game. So ya, everything is going to be scratch made from unity and not a pinball program. I'm guessing it'll be some time til beta but I will keep you updated when I do release beta!
Keep doing your thing, I'm weak when it comes to the physical building aspect but I've learned so much, thank you.
Nice, I have been playing a lot of Unity designed games lately. You ever play Stranded Deep? Soooooo good. Yeah I can't wait to see this game! No worries, I'm just happy to help people out there like your self, enjoy the content!
Your videos on the pinball cab build are excellent! You are quite the teacher and your students are fortunate to have you - as are we out here in YT land!
Thank you very much for your kind words, I really appreciate them. I work way too hard on these videos and stress about the details but it is all worth it when I get comments like these.
If you deem me worthy, I would really appreciate it if you could share my channel on your social media so I can help more people.
Thanks again and thanks for the watch!
Thank you for these very helpfull videos, I built one a couple of years back with no knowledge. My next builds gonna be super with your help from these videos, many thanks.
You're very welcome! I'd love to see your next build when you're done! Thanks for the watch!
Have you seen the video of the guy who takes a oven door and sections it to use as a custom lock down bar? The corners are nice and rounded, and with your skills you could weld it up nicely.
Yes I have, it's a pretty good idea. I have a couple ideas too for a no welding lockbar for people who don't weld and a welded version, I might make 2 videos. Thanks for the suggestion!
Another great video. I am tracking pretty even with my build and watching these videos keeps it exciting. I just installed my artwork on the cabinet and wow did that make a huge difference for mine. As noted before, thank you for leaving in some of the challenges with building stuff and the errors which often happen to all of us. Sometimes other videos get so edited but working through the bumps and seeing such a great result is nice. I look forward to the next one. cheers
That's cool that you were building along with mine. What artwork did you go with? Is it custom artwork that you did? I still need to figure out mine, I kinda wanted to do TOTAN but a custom Way of the Wrench graphic would be cool too. Yeah that sudden tear out was a mistake but ya know what, they happen to everyone. This is my first vpin cab so there's bound to be some hiccups. Thanks for the watch bruh and good luck on your build!
@@wayofthewrench My two 20+ sons have been quite interested and one of them designed an everything Star Wars design using Photoshop. The artwork came last weekend and we applied to a painted semi-gloss black cabinet and it came out amazing. It completely looks like a professional cabinet (although the guts etc. still need some work). I am sure you could do a perfect "Way of the Wrench" design that would crush it. Paul at VirtualPin has a template that you use to apply the artwork to stay within the boundaries and it perfectly fits a standard Williams or Widebody (perhaps others too). Then he printed and sent and the results seem amazing. I think it was around $150 USD so may be cheaper options but results very good. Cheers and keep up the videos (I set the bell to catch all of them).
Sounds awesome, I'd love to see some pics of your cabinet. Send em to my Instagram. Yeah I need to get on that, I should shoot Paul an email for the PS template although I'll have to see if I can add an inch and a half for my slightly wider than widebody cabinet. You apply it dry or wet method?
This is BY FAR the best tutorial on how to build something I have ever saw. Thanks for the plans, I am really confident that I can do it. All the problem solving and planning ahead. 100/10 man. And the pace in your voice is good. I am Brazillian and I could understand everything, the measuments and all crearly. Thanks. Subscribed. And nice garage!
Thank you very much Peter! Ya you should totally build a vpin! I'm glad you liked my teaching style and my channel content, maybe you can share out my channel to your friends in Brazil? That would be much appreciated! Thanks for the subscribe and your kind words. Cheers from Canada!
@@wayofthewrench already did on our arcade groups. Hope you channel grow a lot!
Thanks dude! Yeah me too, it would be nice to eventually go full time RUclipsr and build even bigger cooler stuff! Cheers Peter!
Another great video. You have a wonderful teaching style. Thanks for even including the bit where the wood tore out on the pocket hole; it helps us beginners realize that thing even happened to skilled craftsmen! Lol
Thanks John! I just try to explain what I'm doing in a very clear and logical way that I think most people will understand and learn from. It helps that it is a cool project and so many people wanna build one of these! Yeah that sucked about the clamp but like ya said it happens sometimes and ya just deal with it. One of the best things any good tradesperson should have is their ability to always improve and learn from their mistakes.....otherwise how do you get better? Thanks for your support for the channel John, take it easy!
25:57 - I feel that pain, been there before! Cheers to showing that even the most experienced people have things like this happen. "I can fix that" - love the reaction. Said this to you on IG but really appreciate the videos! Can't wait to see them blow past 100k views (and beyond).
Yeah that was a horrible moment but a really cool one for the video. Really it was an easy fix so no biggie. Yes! That would be cool to see the channel blow up but I'm still waiting and plugging along. Thanks for the watch!
Very cool... one thing I would of done to make it look nice is to put a small piece between the playfield and backbox (to lift the backbox from the cabinet), just to separate the two, look more original.
Ya know, you nailed it right on the head. As it turns out I missed the part in the mjrnet plans that has the top piece of the cabinet having a rabbet which would raise the back box 3/8". So I had to cut a piece of 3/8" plywood to put between the two and plug/redrill the back box hinge pivot holes. I make note of this is a future video coming out soon. Thanks for the suggestion and the watch!
That cabinet's gonna be around for a very VERY long time....I doth my cap to you sir.
Yeah this cabinet is gonna live longer than my kid's kids.... it's bulletproof. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
Great job and another great video. Love your patient explanations. Thank you !
You're welcome Gary, glad you are liking my content and my teaching style. Thanks for the watch!
Awesome! Hope you will continue with these videos !!! I would also like to build a vpin!
Thanks! You should TOTALLY build one, they're awesome! Thanks for the watch!
Very nice
You made it look very easy
It kinda is, at least once you have all the info you need like in the video. Just take your time and you'll do great. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
Looks super nice 👍 I have too much to do right now but when I have time I am going to build one. Not a full size capinett maybe a 32 inch playfield. Great tutorial!
Thanks Bruh! Yeah its a pretty cool project, you should totally build one! You could do what I did and start looking for deals on monitors and a pc/pc parts so that you can slowly start the design process. Then when you have time, your good to go. Thanks for the watch, cheers!
This is really well done. You have inspired me ! Thank you so much for doing these I want to do both the arcade and pinball
Awesome Jason, you should totally do both.....then you'll have a home arcade. If you build it, they will come. If you do, I'd love to see some pics when you're done!
Thanks! I love your videos!
You are so welcome! Thanks for watching them! If you cut the spine off at a 90 degree cut out, it should fold around a 90 degree corner but with a slight radius added to the outside. I plan on softening those sharp corners a little bit, maybe like a 1/4 radius or so just with sand paper on a sanding block. It's funny because most of the pinball cabinets I have been looking at don't even go around the corners. they just put the t molding on the front and that's it. I like the full wrap though, I think it will look more polished/finished and not cheaped out. Cheers!
@@wayofthewrench you are so meticulous… you are an inspiration!
Love the comment, thanks!
Just found your channel, and your videos really grow on a person.
Good that you leave your mistakes in, and this really helps like you know people watching understand what can go wrong, even if your experienced in doing that job.
I was sceptical at first watching your videos, but i have to say that your videos do grow on you.
I like the way you explain every step, and you left your mistakes in, so people can see not everything will ever be perfect, and you have to adapt to the situation when making something, as no matter how well you plan this sort of thing, things will come up in making it, that you never thought off.
So good videos overall.
I was fairly sceptical at first on your videos, as watching others, makes it seem so perfect, and they want people to believe that everything they do will always be perfect first time. Good for you, for leaving your mistakes in, and your videos sure do grow on a person watching with this style you have.
Like i said, when you have seen many on youtube doing such vids, and they want to pretend that all they do is perfect, its a nice change to see a person leave there mistakes in, so you can show people how you adapt to these mistakes in making something.
Have to say this, as i am glad you did have a different style then most. I would suspect most youtubers only show all there perfect work, and edit out any mistakes, and you show, that leaving in your mistakes, that it draws people attention into your videos.
I also like the way your videos show, to make one of these is alot of work, and effort. Most youtube video creators want people to believe it can be done in 5mins.
Thank you very much! Yeah there is a ton of work that go into these videos and yes, everyone makes mistakes. Sometimes the best way to learn is by making mistakes so I try to show everything so you guys know exactly what you need to know to be able to make these projects or weld or work on your vehicle. Thanks for the watch!
I literally screamed at the 25:57 mark 🕰
Yeah that was definitely off script and as bad as it looks, a little glue, a 3M clamp (masking tape), and a quick sanding and it was back to good as knew. Thanks for the watch!
Thanks for the great video! Watching to see how this turns out, thinking about taking the trip to making my own. When is the next video coming out for this series?
You're welcome Mike! You should totally make a vpin cab! Way too much fun to be had. I have a plasma cutting project video out next week, then a how to inspect disc brakes video 2 weeks after, and then the pinball legs/drilling jigs video drops. Thanks for the interest, you're the forth person to ask in the last couple days....I must be doing something right. Thanks for the watch. Cheers!
Hi,I'm going to use 18mm ply for my cab, and will simply screw them together (sides to the bottom etc),will 40mm long screws be OK to put the cab together?,thanking you in advance.
I would highly recommend gluing and screwing in some reinforcement with glue blocks on the inside to beef up the screwed corners.....they won't be enough in the long term. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
@@wayofthewrenchhow about 50mm?,....it's just that I had a shed load of 40mm and thought I could get away with it!.Thanks for the reply.
Can you make a video on how to take a part and put back together a Briggs and Stratton motor
Yes I will in the future, it will probably be a full playlist from start to finish with all the little theory info too. Thanks for the suggestion Lukas.....now get back to work putting your engine together! LOL.
Great job liked your video.
Sorry if this feels like criticism it is not. Hopefully this will save you time.
If you were going to hinge the back box it will not work. What is needed is a 3/4” lip at the top of you cabinet. You can fix this really easy by adding an additional peace of 3/4” plywood to step it up. Hopefully you have not drilled your back box hinges yet.
I made this mistake in 2015.
No no none taken, this is my first vpin build so I'm totally open to suggestions. I actually did your mistake and just went ahead with it. I just realized that the mjrnet plans are for a rabbet joint on the top 3/4" piece which would make it stick up a 3/8". Do you know if the 3/8" above is not enough? I just made up the 3/8" piece but still have to glue it on the top but I already plugged/redrilled the back box hinge holes for the added 3/8" piece. I should temporarily clamp it on and see if it works, mind you I'm not too concerned about it fully closing but it would be ideal. Thanks for your suggestion and the watch! Cheers!
@@wayofthewrench Not sure about the 3/8 measurement. When I realized I messed up. I cut a new 3/4” plywood for the top. I mirrored my cut outs for cabling I then place it on top of my existing top glued and screwed. The overall look of it was not noticeable as a mistake after I put in the glass channel reciever
I did drill my holes for my hinges already so I filled them up with plywood plugs and glue and sanded them away.
This is going to be a great first cabinet. The next will be even better.
Yeah you did what I just did except I did 3/8" so I guess I'm gonna find out, I'll let ya know. Thanks, I'm really looking forward to my cabinet. I've been playing a lot of pinball in local places and on ps4 but can't wait for this build to be complete.
Well I just checked....3/8" isn't quite enough so you are probably right about it needing 3/4". Not sure I'm going to change it a third time but will definitely tell people in the future video. Thanks for the heads up!
@@wayofthewrench I need to let small things go here and there too. My OCD is pretty bad though. I burn a lot of dollars. Lol
First of all, that Jig is awesome, $175 ouch ! Anyway, I am thinking about doing mine in particle board, just because the fact that I plan to skin and the price point. Will that work well with doing pocket holes?
No question, I would do the wood blocks as well, that would keep it rock solid.
I do not recommend using particle board as it will dampen all of the ssf vibrations and personally I think particle board is junk. It has it's uses but here is not one of them. You will have to sand an enormous amount to get it smooth enough to not see every chunk through your vinyl. Don't do it CoolDave! Pony up and at least find plywood if not cabinet grade plywood. Should be about 150-200$ CAN. Cheers!
Just curious... i am in the process of assembly my cabinet and there is a slight bow in my 3/4 inch plywood side panel. might be an issue when i install the glass. So my solution is to put in two Side panel to side panel cross braces (2x4), just below the monitor support frame. This will pull in the slight bow and provide additional support for the monitor support frame.... or should i just replace the bowed side panel with a "straight piece" .. your thoughts
Hard to say without seeing it but yes the cross bracing will pull in the sides a lot. Unless it looks like a Dorito, it should be ok. Good luck!
Can you please explain to me why you need the complicated angled screws. You still need to fill the holes & it will be wrapped anyway. Your a Legend so there must be a good reason but my brain can't work it out. I would have thought just drilling in the side at 90 degrees would have been stronger & so much easier? Can't wait for your next video on the epic build!
If you run screws into the edge of the plywood, it has horrible strength, unless you screw into the 1" x 1" glue blocks which is exactly how I did my arcade cabinet. There is absolutely nothing wrong with doing it that way. In the video I explained that and said I wanted to try/learn/teach something new for everyone, including myself. Now the pocket screws could have been done from the inside and there would have been no holes to fill on the outside, however, when I made a test piece and did some research, it was way stronger from the outside. So to me, it is extra work to fill/sand them but the end result is a stronger/longer lasting cabinet. Especially with the glue up blocks.....it's bulletproof! I might not even fill the holes on the top of the back box or the ones on the back of the cabinet because you literally will never look at them. Then again, I'm a glutton for punishment, so I might...lol. Thanks for the watch. Legend out!
@@wayofthewrench Thanks for the informative reply.
No worries, glad I could help
@@wayofthewrench Kreg sells plugs that fit the pocket holes, or you can cut your own using a 3/8" dowel and a flush cutting hand saw. A dab of glue and a bit of sanding and the pocket holes are all but invisible once filled with a plug. On a side note, I met Craig Sommerfeld and bought one of his original K-2 Kreg Jigs at a woodworking equipment show back in 1990. Nice guy, and it's cool to see how big Kreg Tools has grown since then. At the time he was a one man operation selling his jigs off of a card table at trade shows like the one I attended.
Not sure if its ever mentioned, but what size screws did you use? Going pocket holes in mine just because of these video's Kreg owe you some money!!!
I used the screws that are in the kit for 3/4" plywood interior ones. Yeah I filmed it to teach people how to use it and see if Kreg would reach out but I didn't hear anything. Thanks for the watch and your support for the channel!
Really appreciate your videos and right in the middle of my build over the holiday (here in the US) - question for you: why did you put your pocket screw holes on the outside? Is it because you're going to vinyl wrap later in your build?
edit: nm I saw your answer around 5:48 - looks like you fill them with wood filler and sand later on. I had also realized that you get more grip by angling them down into the material rather than towards the edge (if they were reversed) which you also confirmed.
Yeah I got a lot of flack for this but I did the test and I went for better strength rather than hiding holes, especially since I was going to fill/sand/vinyl over it anyways. If you deem me worthy, I'd really appreciate it if you could share out my channel on your social media so I can help more people. Thanks for the watch and your support for the channel!
Are the bottom and the side's of the cab the same size?,plans on the net show the bottom 36mm shorter.Thanking you in advance.
The sides should be the same but the front panel and back box are bigger to accommodate the tv. Plans are in the video description. Thanks for the watch!
What do you suggest if we don't have a compressor and brad nailer?
You can clamp and predrill holes for screws too, I was just trying to show another method.....it is also way faster. Really if you do it right, you don't need and nails or screws, they just hold the wood in place while the glue dries. Thanks for the watch!
Very nice build! Also very nicely explained although I have plenty of experience myself I got a few tricks along the journey. 👍🏻
One thing I am curious about. I noticed that most of the pocket holes are on the outside. Is there a specific reason for this? I usually make them on the inside, because it saves an awful lot of cleaning up and filling later.
That Bruh! Glad you enjoyed the video and got some new tricks to add to your game. When I made two test pieces that was held together with pocket hole screws, there was significantly more strength when the pocket hole screws were put into the inside rather than the outer edge. So based off that I put mine from the outside. Its not that big a deal as I need to sand the outside of the cabinet anyways so a little wood fill/bondo and it'll be mint. Thanks for the watch!
I love watching your videos. I’m confused on one thing, why do I need to add 3/8” if not doing a rabbit? Do I add this to both the rear top and front top of the sides?
The 3/8" is to raise the blackbox enough to be able to swing it down onto the playfield. On my design because I made the blackbox wider, it needs even more....like maybe 3/4". Mine doesn't swing down fully. Thanks for the watch!
@@wayofthewrench thanks for the quick reply. I’ve never been addicted to RUclips videos, but yours are the best.
That's awesome! Feel free to share out my channel and get your friends addicted too! LOL
If I'm just wanting to drill holes from the outside and screw straight into the ply... not pocket holes...
Is there any tips for do's and don'ts? Like best screws to use.. how far to drill.. how far to counter sink etc?
Hrmmm let's see. Predrill the holes for the screws just so the body of the screw passes but the teeth can fully grab. Countersink your screw holes so the head of the screw sits just below the surface once tightened. Use screws that are long enough to go through the 3/4" sides and into the glue block/batton or the other side at 90 degrees. The batton will have more strength if you can go into that....plus the glue joint. If you watch my arcade cabinet assembly video, you'll see exactly what your asking about because that's how I did that one. Cheers!
@@wayofthewrench yeah I've watched that... I'm planning to screw through the side of the ply into the ply in joining to.. and then glue blocks in for bracing... rather than screwing into batons..
Yeah I wouldn't suggest that as you are screwing into end/edge grain which isn't as strong in plywood. I highly recommend you glue screw/brad nail a batton in and then the other piece screws into that. It will be way stronger and the plywood plies won't seperate.
@@wayofthewrench hrmm.. maybe i will do the pocket holes then.... but the tools are gonna cost me a couple hundred more lol...Do you think go for the corner clamp or the pocket hole clamp?
Ya know it all costs money but think about the price of your experience/learning...it's priceless. Plus you get to keep he tools and your next project will benefit from having these tools and the experience.....it just keeps getting better and better. Either work, I bought the pocket hole clamp but there might be a benefit for buying both. Good luck Chris!
Probably watched this whole video 3 times now, but I just noticed you had an access panel in the back of the topbox as well as the main cab. Was that just to make putting it together easier? Were you doing the same as the cabinet with the hinged door?
Yes the backbox has a hatch too just like the bottom. It will be in the backbox video if you're looking for the info. It came in super handy to mount the monitors and put in speakers, etc. Thanks for the watch!
@@wayofthewrench Sweet cheers dude. I didnt have one in my designs but makes sense to make things easier when building. I remember one of your videos saying everything would come out of the front so i didnt put one in mine.
Yes the monitors do come out the front but you need to tighten the bolts from the back so the hatch is much needed. Cheers!
Cool thanks dude. I could be wrong but I thought in the backbox video you talked about the whole back panel being removable, not having an access panel, but I think access panel will be better to give the backbox more strength so I'll probably go that route too!
not 100% sure what I said in the video but I might have changed my mind while making it. You technically could leave the back free to remove out but it would be way less stable overall. With it glue/screwed in and the hatch, you leave a frame around to keep it square and solid while still being able to access the inside. I used the same technique of plunge cutting with a jigsaw in order to cut it out and it worked out great. Well worth the extra effort and the cost of the hinge. Cheers!
Hi,what is the purpose of glue blocks?and are they necessary?
Technically they are not required but they add so much rigidity that the cabinet is bulletproof. So it's cheap and easy insurance for the cabinet to last way longer than even factory ones. Thanks for the watch!
@@wayofthewrench Thanks for the reply,but wouldn't it make more sense to have them right up against the sides?,or am I missing something obvious here?..... By the way your pinball series has been outstanding;thanks for all the work you have put in;not only in building the machine,but all the video editing, uploading...etc etc.Well done.
Yes they are glued right into the corners so they touch/support the sides. Thanks! I work really hard on these videos so it's always nice to hear back from subscribers. Cheers!
What length screws please? I'm thinking 1-1/4" ?
Yeah that should work if you use 1" x 1" glue blocks.
@@wayofthewrench I'm going back to the pocket hole route.. did you use 1-1/4"?
Yup!
you are going to make me buy this amazing jig arent you...
lol...maybe. Keep in mind you can buy the $25 dollar one, it just takes longer. I bought this cause it will help again with future builds for the home and the channel. I was a good jig but I felt it was a bit flimsy feeling on the way the sides attached to the main part. I was thinking I might mount the jig to a board and screw the floating sides down so they are more sturdy for the long term. Thanks for the watch!
is it possible to set the german subtitles ? for all pinball videos ? we don't all speak english. THANKS.
I'll look into it but I don't think I can add German subtitles. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel! Prost!
shouldn't you have put all the pocket holes for your bottom cabinet piece on the bottom side of the cabinet and not on the top of the bottom side? In the way you did it, the screws are going into less meat of the wood. You did it correctly on the backbox.
There is a 1 inch space underneath the bottom piece so either way it is the same strength. The bottom also sits on top of the 1" glue blocks too for tons of strength. The reason why I put the pocket holes on the top was because if I put them on the bottom, the glue blocks would block access to the screws in case they need tightened later in life. Thanks for the watch!