@joeldude76 I don't know about the Dodge system but the TPS lets the PCM know what position the throttle is in. If you open the throttle up but say the TPS is sending a signal that the throttle is closed (because it's broke), the PCM thinks the throttle is still closed. Therefore, the injectors won't richen, timing won't advance so you'll have poor or no acceleration.
Everything has been replaced on that end. During low rpm (0-55 mph) it accelerates fine but still want go over 3400-3800 rpms. No acceleration going on steep inclines, I actually have to drop down a gear. Thanks for the response!
I have no idea what you mean by the key being in the forward or backward position. However if you do the first test shown in the clip, testing the signal return with the key off, you should see the problem. It's likely the wire to pin 46 is open or open in the PCM. If you get a high resistance reading, the signal return is open causing you the bad readings. Normally it's a damaged PCM.
Hello, By the way I just wanted to say you have the most descriptive video on this subject by far! The question I have for doing this test on my 90 L.X. 5.0 is about my digital volt meter. I have a Tenma that is WAY to complicated for me. So on my cheaper and much simpler meter I was just wondering what I should set dial on the meter to. Testing the signal return the Ohms setting on my meter has a choice of 200/2,000,20k/200k/and 2,000k. Then checking the reference voltage my choices for volts are 200mili,2,000mili, then 20-200-500 on the red lead it can go to either 10A Max Unfused. Or I can put that red lead in another port that reads 500V / 200mili Max. Then for the signal voltage I have the same scale but don't know what to set it for that reading. So basically I need to know the settings on my meter for testing the Test-1Key off Ohms pin# 46-signal return-Ohms, then Test- 2 key on -pin# 26 reference voltage then. Test-3 Key still on pin# 47 signal wire closed throttle then check the same wire WOT and it should go smoothly up to approx. 4.50 volts. Just want to make sure I do it correctly. Any input you have on my meter settings for this test would be greatly appreciated. Sorry the message is so long I tried to keep it short but really couldn't. Thank's in advance, Marty.
thank you sir very helpful and simple explanation.... maybe you could become an instructor at a vocational level and educate young folks willing to learn and use your gift....
Hey quick update, I decided to go with a shim for crank pulley. .and second, during my swap I kept my used my stock engine with the ho computer everything plugged in great. .,but my question is 02 sensors? I have dual exhaust now and I'm just confused on how to go about that. Will the stock 02 plugs mate with h.o 02sensors
when my fathers 04 dodge ram sensor went bad he ocasionally lost his gas pedal the engine would still run but the throttle wouldnt work for like 10 sec lol which can be bad when you go out in traffic its fixed now but the gas pedal is by cable so how would it make him lose the power of his pedal?
thank for the video. I apply what you said and im getting 5.16 on referance voltage with should be less than 5.00 and 2.66 on signal wire wich should be .93-1.00. The question is do I have a mechanical problem or just mechanical adjustment in the body? Help LOL.. PS: im not a technician just a 93 5.0 coupe owner.
With the key on but the engine off I have one wire showing about 5V, one showing about 0.4V and one showing about 0. Manually opening and closing the throttle doesn't change any of the three voltages. From what i've read on forums I was lead in the direction of this TPS needing to be replaced. Would you agree that these voltages indicate that the TPS needs to be replaced?
Hi, I am hoping that you can assist. I was having idle issues, particularly with stalling in neutral, or with the clutch in. I checked my tps voltage, and it was in range but a bit low, so I set it at .98 at idle, and I was getting 4.65 at wot, which is great. I then tested my signal at idle and it didn't return to .98, it was at 1.19. Do you think I have a bad tps? I'm going to clean my tb, just to make sure there is no build up, that could be causing my throttle plate from returning to closed. Thank you
Richard Jean It's been awhile since I did a CV fuel pump job. Frankly, the stock pump should be fine for a stock HO 5.0L. I believe a 255 lph pump for a Fox Mustang could be placed in the CV bracket with only a slight modification to the bracket. I would have to look at one to know for sure.
Thanks for the quick response, I had a real big issue with pully alignment too have you ever had that issue? My alt is on the driver side I'm using my stock ps braket still and rather keep it on the driver side but the whinning is bad. Any ideas?
I used the CV left side pulley set because the project wasn't going to have AC or air pump. You must use all CV pulley's, crank, water pump and likely the PS pulley. The CV pulleys stick out farther than Mustang and trucks. With that corrected, the belt should line up fine.
Purchased a lifetime warranty computer from ECUEXCHANGE LLC 701 La Veta Dr. Melbourne, FL 32904. They do other ECM's as well. Thought you might want their info. My total cost $285 with expedited shipping. Installed computer tested ref voltage 4.9 volts. Adjusted tps, Fuel pump is now priming for 3 seconds and shutting off and the car has much more power and throttle response. I have 22" of rubber contact in rear and now it wants to break loose in second gear. I have a feeling my ref reference voltage was out of range for a while and finally dumped. Thanks for all your help. I have told the guys at work about your website and videos.
I have a 91 LX 5.0 that quit running on the highway with no previous signs. Will turn over but wont start. Towed it home. Tested TFI tested good. Have spark. Pulled spark plug out no sign of gas on plug. Fuel pump is working. Fuel pressure is 38psi. Noticed after car quit on the highway; when I turn key on to where fuel pump primes for 2 to 5 seconds, it now stays on until I turn the key to off position. Bought a new fuel pump relay and installed it under driver seat and now when I turn key on the fuel pump doesn't come on unless I tap the relay then it stays on until I turn the key off. Found your video here and tested TPS my reference wire voltage from computer is 1.47 volts. My sensor wire reads idle position .26 volts to 1.47 volts WOT. Do you have any suggestions? Would a bad ground to computer give this symptom or am I looking at a new computer?
I show how to check the signal return wire which you need to do. When you checked the reference wire, are you sure you probed the correct wires? If the right wires were checked and you still get a low reference reading, you might have a shorted sensor that uses the reference voltage like TPS, EVP, ACT, ECT, BAP. If you unplug all those other that the TPS and get the same low voltage, you likely have a bad PCM.
BadShoeProductions Thanks for a speedy reply as this is my daily driver. I'll re-watch and double check my readings. Next unplug the sensors that use the reference voltage. If my reference voltage returns to 5 volts should I then one at a time plug in a sensor and check reference voltage until it drops again? I should be able to replace that sensor and have the problem fixed unless of course the PCM still gives me 1.47 or below 5 volts when all sensors are disconnected. Thanks again....I'll let you know what I find as soon as I know. Mark, Lebannon, TN
BadShoeProductions This morning I also checked the eecu relay mounted above the computer and it tested bad (the coil inside the relay when supplied 12vdc wouldn't activate contacts. So I installed new relay before I ran tps test again. My signal return ohms tested with key off was .2 ohms (point two ohms) With key on and vom turned to 20 vdc the reference wire (orange wire) is 1.34 volts and the signal wire (green) ranged from idle .23 volts to WOT 1.34 volts. That is with the EGR solenoid and BAP disconnected. Those were the only other sensors on that 5 volt reference circuit according to the eecu 60 pinout diagram. Any other suggestions. Oh the only thing that did change by putting in the new eecu relay is the fuel pump now comes on without tapping fuel pump relay, but it still runs continuous instead of shutting off after a few seconds (the prime cycle). I also disconnect tps from harness and probed orange pin where tps plugs in and it reads 1.34volts. Should I probe #26 wire orange where it comes out of computer to see if voltage is 1.34? If it PCM time who would you buy if from? Any other ideas? Mark
Denise Nichols When you were taking these reading, the meter's other probe was hooked to ground, correct? If so, I would say you have a bad PCM but of course, this is a long distance diag.
I dont know if you can help me but I have a 90 gt with idle issues...I have posted a video of what it is doing....I have replaced everything....any help or ideas would be much appreciated ...thank you
@wellfarebear88 There's no way for me to know what you have. An EEC test should be the first thing to check. I would think a vacumn leak or an IAC problem.
No I was just tryn to test anything that I thought might hav anything to do with the injectors it was reading faulty but now its reading fine the first time I checked it only read like 0.10 closed & 1.56 wide open
What happens if the voltage and the ohms are higher than what you show in your video? I'm getting higher readings- Does any anyone know how I can fix this problem??? Please Help ")
Is the sig. return reading of 4.95 ohms or volts? If it's volts, you have an open in the sig. return circuit or PCM. Most likely the PCM's return is burnt out.
@@badshoeproductions I tried no luck the rotating assembly will not clock backwards on my TPS... I did find a almost broken ignition condenser/compasitor beside of my coil.. the older distributors has them inside with the point mechanism.. I've mentioned my almost broken condenser/compasitor to many people their response is that it's just for the radio. Yes it does compress the radio but at the same time deals directly with the ignition system an alternator.. a lot of false information brought me to you on the TPS.. I'm gonna replace this condenser today and see if that works if not I'll buy another TPS sensor and test it as well.. thank you for the reply and trying to help my situation
Your throttle idle stop might be adjusted up causing the blade to be open wider which will raise the idle TPS voltage. You might close down the idle stop and clean the throttle blade to make sure it comes back to the stop screw.
@@badshoeproductions I've tried that it really didn't help much if anything but I'm going to clean the tb.. Ive looked in it many times... As I set thinking I might see if my injectors need cleaning or new ones.. also check my harness for the injectors and make sure everything is operating properly
If the tps isn't adjusted properly, will it cause the engine to hesitate, & have shit for power?? someone please answer, I've just replaced mine in my 5.0 Lincoln, still runs like total crap & I'm pulling my hair out over it o_O
Great quick explanation of how to test the TPS. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful.
Great explanation of how to test a tps ,everything explained clearly and I successfully dionosed the problem and repaired it, thanks for the help
Awesome video sir, thank you
@joeldude76 I don't know about the Dodge system but the TPS lets the PCM know what position the throttle is in. If you open the throttle up but say the TPS is sending a signal that the throttle is closed (because it's broke), the PCM thinks the throttle is still closed. Therefore, the injectors won't richen, timing won't advance so you'll have poor or no acceleration.
Everything has been replaced on that end. During low rpm (0-55 mph) it accelerates fine but still want go over 3400-3800 rpms. No acceleration going on steep inclines, I actually have to drop down a gear. Thanks for the response!
I have no idea what you mean by the key being in the forward or backward position. However if you do the first test shown in the clip, testing the signal return with the key off, you should see the problem. It's likely the wire to pin 46 is open or open in the PCM. If you get a high resistance reading, the signal return is open causing you the bad readings. Normally it's a damaged PCM.
Priceless thanks.
Excellent video!
The way the tach needle drops out makes me think you have a primary ignition problem.
All of them have a TPS, the 86, 87 also uses a MAP and the 88 uses a MAF sensor.
@MrWalleye You'll have to get my 5.0L swap vol.2 dvd for the other sensors and much more.
Hello, By the way I just wanted to say you have the most descriptive video on this subject by far! The question I have for doing this test on my 90 L.X. 5.0 is about my digital volt meter. I have a Tenma that is WAY to complicated for me. So on my cheaper and much simpler meter I was just wondering what I should set dial on the meter to. Testing the signal return the Ohms setting on my meter has a choice of 200/2,000,20k/200k/and 2,000k. Then checking the reference voltage my choices for volts are 200mili,2,000mili, then 20-200-500 on the red lead it can go to either 10A Max Unfused. Or I can put that red lead in another port that reads 500V / 200mili Max. Then for the signal voltage I have the same scale but don't know what to set it for that reading. So basically I need to know the settings on my meter for testing the Test-1Key off Ohms pin# 46-signal return-Ohms, then Test- 2 key on -pin# 26 reference voltage then. Test-3 Key still on pin# 47 signal wire closed throttle then check the same wire WOT and it should go smoothly up to approx. 4.50 volts. Just want to make sure I do it correctly. Any input you have on my meter settings for this test would be greatly appreciated. Sorry the message is so long I tried to keep it short but really couldn't. Thank's in advance, Marty.
MAD MARTY Do you have an automatic setting? If so, just put it there. If not, use the 20 volt, 200 ohm, and you won't need the amp function.
No, No auto. I will set it like you said. Thank's for the response. I didn't expect it to be that quick. Thank you so much. I really appreciate it.
that was excellent. will you be doing the rest of the sensors on the 5.0
Why are you testing the TPS? Did you get a code for it? What is the reading at wide open? Are you getting 5 volts on the VREF orange/white wire?
thank you sir very helpful and simple explanation.... maybe you could become an instructor at a vocational level and educate young folks willing to learn and use your gift....
Thanks, glad you liked it.
5.16 is likely ok for referance but 2.66 is way off for idle. Does it change when you rotate the throttle?
Hey quick update, I decided to go with a shim for crank pulley. .and second, during my swap I kept my used my stock engine with the ho computer everything plugged in great. .,but my question is 02 sensors? I have dual exhaust now and I'm just confused on how to go about that. Will the stock 02 plugs mate with h.o 02sensors
when my fathers 04 dodge ram sensor went bad he ocasionally lost his gas pedal the engine would still run but the throttle wouldnt work for like 10 sec lol which can be bad when you go out in traffic its fixed now but the gas pedal is by cable so how would it make him lose the power of his pedal?
thank for the video. I apply what you said and im getting 5.16 on referance voltage with should be less than 5.00 and 2.66 on signal wire wich should be .93-1.00. The question is do I have a mechanical problem or just mechanical adjustment in the body? Help LOL.. PS: im not a technician just a 93 5.0 coupe owner.
With the key on but the engine off I have one wire showing about 5V, one showing about 0.4V and one showing about 0. Manually opening and closing the throttle doesn't change any of the three voltages. From what i've read on forums I was lead in the direction of this TPS needing to be replaced. Would you agree that these voltages indicate that the TPS needs to be replaced?
+Daniel Thomasson Sounds like a replacement to me.
I put a new TPS on my 89 bronco and it still won't go over 3800 RPM ... Its stumped 4 mechanics and it's still not fixed. Any suggestions?
Hi, I am hoping that you can assist. I was having idle issues, particularly with stalling in neutral, or with the clutch in. I checked my tps voltage, and it was in range but a bit low, so I set it at .98 at idle, and I was getting 4.65 at wot, which is great. I then tested my signal at idle and it didn't return to .98, it was at 1.19. Do you think I have a bad tps? I'm going to clean my tb, just to make sure there is no build up, that could be causing my throttle plate from returning to closed. Thank you
You might need to check non-EEC things like a plugged pcv filter in the back of a 5.0L intake.
@@badshoeproductions Thank you I will check it out.
If your interested in my videos, I have them in dvd and digital download. Just go to my web site for info,
Can you do a video on a fuel pump upgrade? I have a 87 crown Vic with a 89 ho motor, I have did everything except tps,fuel pump,Mac,and 02 sensors.
Richard Jean It's been awhile since I did a CV fuel pump job. Frankly, the stock pump should be fine for a stock HO 5.0L. I believe a 255 lph pump for a Fox Mustang could be placed in the CV bracket with only a slight modification to the bracket. I would have to look at one to know for sure.
Thanks for the quick response, I had a real big issue with pully alignment too have you ever had that issue? My alt is on the driver side I'm using my stock ps braket still and rather keep it on the driver side but the whinning is bad. Any ideas?
I used the CV left side pulley set because the project wasn't going to have AC or air pump. You must use all CV pulley's, crank, water pump and likely the PS pulley. The CV pulleys stick out farther than Mustang and trucks. With that corrected, the belt should line up fine.
Purchased a lifetime warranty computer from ECUEXCHANGE LLC 701 La Veta Dr. Melbourne, FL 32904. They do other ECM's as well. Thought you might want their info. My total cost $285 with expedited shipping. Installed computer tested ref voltage 4.9 volts. Adjusted tps, Fuel pump is now priming for 3 seconds and shutting off and the car has much more power and throttle response. I have 22" of rubber contact in rear and now it wants to break loose in second gear. I have a feeling my ref reference voltage was out of range for a while and finally dumped. Thanks for all your help. I have told the guys at work about your website and videos.
Mark Nichols Thanks for the info. Is that price with exchange?
BadShoeProductions Yes. If you don't have a core it's $50 more
My 85 ford 5.0 throttle body red wire shorted ( popped) when air filter holder touched it ! Now it Won't start !
why would my 5.0 require tps to be 0.61 v at idle in order to be in range?
It shouldn't. Why do you think it does?
I have a 91 LX 5.0 that quit running on the highway with no previous signs. Will turn over but wont start. Towed it home. Tested TFI tested good. Have spark. Pulled spark plug out no sign of gas on plug. Fuel pump is working. Fuel pressure is 38psi. Noticed after car quit on the highway; when I turn key on to where fuel pump primes for 2 to 5 seconds, it now stays on until I turn the key to off position. Bought a new fuel pump relay and installed it under driver seat and now when I turn key on the fuel pump doesn't come on unless I tap the relay then it stays on until I turn the key off. Found your video here and tested TPS my reference wire voltage from computer is 1.47 volts. My sensor wire reads idle position .26 volts to 1.47 volts WOT. Do you have any suggestions? Would a bad ground to computer give this symptom or am I looking at a new computer?
I show how to check the signal return wire which you need to do. When you checked the reference wire, are you sure you probed the correct wires? If the right wires were checked and you still get a low reference reading, you might have a shorted sensor that uses the reference voltage like TPS, EVP, ACT, ECT, BAP. If you unplug all those other that the TPS and get the same low voltage, you likely have a bad PCM.
BadShoeProductions Thanks for a speedy reply as this is my daily driver. I'll re-watch and double check my readings. Next unplug the sensors that use the reference voltage. If my reference voltage returns to 5 volts should I then one at a time plug in a sensor and check reference voltage until it drops again? I should be able to replace that sensor and have the problem fixed unless of course the PCM still gives me 1.47 or below 5 volts when all sensors are disconnected. Thanks again....I'll let you know what I find as soon as I know. Mark, Lebannon, TN
Mark Nichols Correct.
BadShoeProductions This morning I also checked the eecu relay mounted above the computer and it tested bad (the coil inside the relay when supplied 12vdc wouldn't activate contacts. So I installed new relay before I ran tps test again. My signal return ohms tested with key off was .2 ohms (point two ohms)
With key on and vom turned to 20 vdc the reference wire (orange wire) is 1.34 volts and the signal wire (green) ranged from idle .23 volts to WOT 1.34 volts. That is with the EGR solenoid and BAP disconnected. Those were the only other sensors on that 5 volt reference circuit according to the eecu 60 pinout diagram.
Any other suggestions. Oh the only thing that did change by putting in the new eecu relay is the fuel pump now comes on without tapping fuel pump relay, but it still runs continuous instead of shutting off after a few seconds (the prime cycle). I also disconnect tps from harness and probed orange pin where tps plugs in and it reads 1.34volts. Should I probe #26 wire orange where it comes out of computer to see if voltage is 1.34? If it PCM time who would you buy if from? Any other ideas? Mark
Denise Nichols When you were taking these reading, the meter's other probe was hooked to ground, correct? If so, I would say you have a bad PCM but of course, this is a long distance diag.
I dont know if you can help me but I have a 90 gt with idle issues...I have posted a video of what it is doing....I have replaced everything....any help or ideas would be much appreciated ...thank you
Plugged up exhaust system maybe?
@wellfarebear88 There's no way for me to know what you have. An EEC test should be the first thing to check. I would think a vacumn leak or an IAC problem.
Youre awesome...
No I was just tryn to test anything that I thought might hav anything to do with the injectors it was reading faulty but now its reading fine the first time I checked it only read like 0.10 closed & 1.56 wide open
What happens if the voltage and the ohms are higher than what you show in your video?
I'm getting higher readings-
Does any anyone know how I can fix this problem???
Please Help ")
Marla Price What readings are you getting?
Is the sig. return reading of 4.95 ohms or volts? If it's volts, you have an open in the sig. return circuit or PCM. Most likely the PCM's return is burnt out.
Mines 1.45 at closed it that too much?
That is a bit high, but you might be able to loosen the tps screws and rotate it slightly to get a lower reading.
@@badshoeproductions I tried no luck the rotating assembly will not clock backwards on my TPS... I did find a almost broken ignition condenser/compasitor beside of my coil.. the older distributors has them inside with the point mechanism.. I've mentioned my almost broken condenser/compasitor to many people their response is that it's just for the radio. Yes it does compress the radio but at the same time deals directly with the ignition system an alternator.. a lot of false information brought me to you on the TPS.. I'm gonna replace this condenser today and see if that works if not I'll buy another TPS sensor and test it as well.. thank you for the reply and trying to help my situation
Your throttle idle stop might be adjusted up causing the blade to be open wider which will raise the idle TPS voltage. You might close down the idle stop and clean the throttle blade to make sure it comes back to the stop screw.
@@badshoeproductions I've tried that it really didn't help much if anything but I'm going to clean the tb.. Ive looked in it many times... As I set thinking I might see if my injectors need cleaning or new ones.. also check my harness for the injectors and make sure everything is operating properly
What problem are you having? The PCM will compensate for a slightly out of range TPS and not really cause any concerns.
If the tps isn't adjusted properly, will it cause the engine to hesitate, & have shit for power?? someone please answer, I've just replaced mine in my 5.0 Lincoln, still runs like total crap & I'm pulling my hair out over it o_O
@JakeDaSnakeFilms Since you replaced with no change, you need to look somewhere else. Do an EEC test and go from there.
Might be low fuel pressure.
What if I am getting a reading of 0 to 4.5 volts with the tps sensor ....does it have to be closer to 1 volt with a closed throttle ?
Should be about 1 volt with throttle closed on the signal wire. If it's 4.5 V, you have a bad TPS or an open on the signal return (ground wire side).
I have no reference voltage lol
You either have a bad PCM or the ground (signal return) is open.