There is an old salt here that rebuilds outboard motors, when he does instead of cleaning the jets to the carb he just drills them out. I would never do it but I guess it works for him as he's been in business for a long time. One of my best friends bought an old john boat with one of his outboards and it would run like it's tail was on fire but had to be careful, especially when starting as it would flood real easy if you weren't paying attention. Maybe the jets could use a microscopic adjustment, but that's a pretty committed type of repair. Scares me just thinking about it. Ho Ho Ho Y'all!
You have far more knowledge and experience than I do. I experienced the same symptoms, carb torn down multiple times, pressure tested, needle adjusted multiple times, etc same results. Set it to the side due to frustration and would pickup occasionally, prime and crank. One day on the third attempt of priming, it stayed running for a longer period. Finally it ran long enough to adjust. So far it continues to run as if it never had a problem. Don’t have a clue as to what fixed itself, honestly still nervous at every restart. Have had some success with brass tubes from hobby shop making bushings for throttle shafts.
To me it has to be a pin hole in that diaphram or did you by any chance stretch the inlet needle spring? That could cause that as well not being able to over come spring pressure so not deliver enough fuel once engine fires up. Or is this an aftermarket fuel adjustment needle? If so the taper may be off so did you try unscrewing it to give much more fuel? Just throwing out ideas.
This reminds me of a Mcculloch 610 I still own and have completely gone through (pressure/vac of crankcase with new seals, new carb kit with good pressure test on the carb itself and several tests for arm adjustments) but you let it sit for more than 4 days and it will not pull fuel without a shot of fuel down the carb throat and then it starts and runs perfectly and will idle a whole tank of fuel and 4 stroke/lean out in the cut amazingly consistently
This is ironic cause I'm having the ssme problem on a Mcculloch 300 today. Rebuilt the carb and it's just starving for fuel. Had lo jet and hi jet out 2 turns initially then lo out 4 turns. Did finally run for awhile with like half choke but that aint right. So back to the drawing board for me also. In my kit there was 2 gaskets and it was hard to tell when i took mine apart but it looked like there was 2 on it in initially.
Ill start looking lol. Apparently I somehow got two gaskets in there. But I found myself so frustrated w that carb. I changed needles seats gaskets pressure tested that thing 100 times. Different ways, w fuel, empty, tried playing w different kits, and maybe that's why I double stacked gaskets I was playing w something, idk but if y'all know of where to find a carb let me know. Thanks for all the effort I really appreciate you taking the time.
Would it be possible that the throttle butterfly was put in upside-down and if it had a cut out ( notch )in the the butterfly for air to flow at closed position it wouldn't pull fuel 🤔
Going on the assumption it's the original carb for his saw, the only thing I can come up with is a particle of whatever, likely old fuel, moving around in a passage. Once many years ago an old friend cautioned me about using strong cleaners that would attack the sealant some carbs used b/c of porous castings.
I've seen that on a rotax sea doo engine with dual carburetors. I ordered new diaphram and it fixed it. The diaphram stretches just a little bit and it changes the settings of the needle.
I'm having the same issue with my 1-51 tillotson HL63B...3 carb kits, cleaned & soaked, air through jets, pulled & cleaned welch plugs, tested....I'm out of ideas. I don't want to buy different carb but at wits end. Did this ever get resolved for you?
I'd take that carb all the way apart and soak it in k100 then spray it out while checking all fuel holes then blow it out with air then then assemble with a known new rebuild kit.Sometimes the needles in the kits are off a little from factory need to confirm that while pressing on the diaphragm nipple on outside after everything's together to check for air flow by pushing on it
Leon' Leon Pls remove bar and chain.. I'm At 4:33. How could we apply the max number of pulls rule? (Can not remember if it was 7 or 11?) Before trying something different. Thx for the Excellent Content! When you said the Yellow "M" word - I knew it wasn't going to go well 😂
There is an old salt here that rebuilds outboard motors, when he does instead of cleaning the jets to the carb he just drills them out. I would never do it but I guess it works for him as he's been in business for a long time.
One of my best friends bought an old john boat with one of his outboards and it would run like it's tail was on fire but had to be careful, especially when starting as it would flood real easy if you weren't paying attention.
Maybe the jets could use a microscopic adjustment, but that's a pretty committed type of repair. Scares me just thinking about it.
Ho Ho Ho Y'all!
You have far more knowledge and experience than I do. I experienced the same symptoms, carb torn down multiple times, pressure tested, needle adjusted multiple times, etc same results. Set it to the side due to frustration and would pickup occasionally, prime and crank. One day on the third attempt of priming, it stayed running for a longer period. Finally it ran long enough to adjust. So far it continues to run as if it never had a problem. Don’t have a clue as to what fixed itself, honestly still nervous at every restart. Have had some success with brass tubes from hobby shop making bushings for throttle shafts.
To me it has to be a pin hole in that diaphram or did you by any chance stretch the inlet needle spring?
That could cause that as well not being able to over come spring pressure so not deliver enough fuel once engine fires up.
Or is this an aftermarket fuel adjustment needle?
If so the taper may be off so did you try unscrewing it to give much more fuel?
Just throwing out ideas.
This reminds me of a Mcculloch 610 I still own and have completely gone through (pressure/vac of crankcase with new seals, new carb kit with good pressure test on the carb itself and several tests for arm adjustments) but you let it sit for more than 4 days and it will not pull fuel without a shot of fuel down the carb throat and then it starts and runs perfectly and will idle a whole tank of fuel and 4 stroke/lean out in the cut amazingly consistently
This is ironic cause I'm having the ssme problem on a Mcculloch 300 today. Rebuilt the carb and it's just starving for fuel. Had lo jet and hi jet out 2 turns initially then lo out 4 turns. Did finally run for awhile with like half choke but that aint right. So back to the drawing board for me also. In my kit there was 2 gaskets and it was hard to tell when i took mine apart but it looked like there was 2 on it in initially.
Try raising the inlet needle height. Might help
Ill start looking lol. Apparently I somehow got two gaskets in there. But I found myself so frustrated w that carb. I changed needles seats gaskets pressure tested that thing 100 times. Different ways, w fuel, empty, tried playing w different kits, and maybe that's why I double stacked gaskets I was playing w something, idk but if y'all know of where to find a carb let me know. Thanks for all the effort I really appreciate you taking the time.
Would it be possible that the throttle butterfly was put in upside-down and if it had a cut out ( notch )in the the butterfly for air to flow at closed position it wouldn't pull fuel 🤔
I'd honestly have to look at the carb when it gets back.
Did you pull the high and low jet and spray carb cleaner thru the jets??? I’ve had that happen they gum up
Yep pulled both and cleaned
Going on the assumption it's the original carb for his saw, the only thing I can come up with is a particle of whatever, likely old fuel, moving around in a passage. Once many years ago an old friend cautioned me about using strong cleaners that would attack the sealant some carbs used b/c of porous castings.
I've seen that on a rotax sea doo engine with dual carburetors. I ordered new diaphram and it fixed it. The diaphram stretches just a little bit and it changes the settings of the needle.
Is the gasket covering the impulse hole...I had that happen....
I'm having the same issue with my 1-51 tillotson HL63B...3 carb kits, cleaned & soaked, air through jets, pulled & cleaned welch plugs, tested....I'm out of ideas. I don't want to buy different carb but at wits end. Did this ever get resolved for you?
I'd take that carb all the way apart and soak it in k100 then spray it out while checking all fuel holes then blow it out with air then then assemble with a known new rebuild kit.Sometimes the needles in the kits are off a little from factory need to confirm that while pressing on the diaphragm nipple on outside after everything's together to check for air flow by pushing on it
What ratio are you mixing you fuel
quite often fuel problems turn out to be ignition problems. Put the carb on a known good running engine
He put the other carb on the saw ran fine. It’s the carb
I like the c5 i have 1 n pretty good shape i enjoy em.
Leon' Leon Pls remove bar and chain..
I'm At 4:33. How could we apply the max number of pulls rule? (Can not remember if it was 7 or 11?) Before trying something different.
Thx for the Excellent Content!
When you said the Yellow "M" word - I knew it wasn't going to go well 😂
Spring under metering arm to stiff? Especially since it never popped off
Could be, tried several springs. I have a few 63e carbs I can cannibalize just to try.
Making my shoulder hurt!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I know you will figure it out..