Hello. Perhaps you can help. I bought the Chinese shoe patch machine in October of 2022. I spent a month watching videos, etc. For some reason I could not get the machine to pick up the bobbin thread. So frustrated I put in the closet for a year. Pulled it out recently, and finally fixed the bobbin thread issue. Once the bobbin pickup worked, then I had an issue of the upper thread breaking. Watched some more videos, and did some intense sanding of all the bobbin parts. That stopped the breaking. Now, the thread is too loose. Before I just immediately tighten the bobbin spring, can you tell what would be causing the bottom thread to be too loose on my finished tests?
The tension changes depending on which hole you put it in. And if the bobbin is forwards or backwards. Also the thicker the material the more tension, the lighter the material the lesser the tension. Also the spring has tension, depending on how tight the screw. So there are a lot of factors that affect it.
Brilliant, I just got one of these, I am in the process of cleaning filing and polishing it....what a job that is, but it will be worth it in the long run....
Me a gustado la presentación y el embobinado del hilo... estoy muy interesado en esta maquina y creo será un viaje de aprendizaje muy ameno, un abrazo a ti 🤗
I’ve managed to run 277 thread in my machine. But it took some modification. I’m running modified 135 x 18 needles. First off, you have to break out the Dremel tool and waller out the hole in your access plate in the bottom (where the bobbin goes. Not sure what the official name is). Make the hole bigger and enlarge the channel that the needle runs down thru the base of the machine to accommodate the beefier needle. And you’ll need to adjust the bottom arm assembly so that the needle lands far enough toward the nose of the machine in that enlarged channel so that it will clear the bobbin shuttle. If you don’t make these adjustments, everything will come to an abrupt halt the first cycle when the shuttle turns counterclockwise while the needle is at max depth to pick up the thread. Last modification is that even with the enlarged hole and channel for the extra needle clearance, these needles are still too girthy to work well. Either they’ll scrub the thread on the presser foot or the edge of the hole and cause thread to break or you’ll end up crashing the needle the first time you move your work just a bit and cause any deflection in the needle. So I just turned the diameter of the needle down just a little bit by grabbing the top of the needle with some vice grips and rolling the needle on the sander just a little to take some of the bulk off of the needle diameter. That way you end up with a slightly smaller diameter with the larger hole you need for that heavy thread. You can sew heavier material that way and the needles are still plenty strong so you won’t be breaking them all the time like the smaller needles. Down-side is running that heavy thread in the bobbin means you’re loading it all the time. You’ll only get a couple feet of stitching at the absolute max. But I’m brainstorming a will soon be prototyping a couple ideas for a bobbin mod that will allow the bobbin to be direct feed from a spool underneath the arm of the machine instead of reloading bobbin all the time. No more reloads and no more of that crappy bobbin winder. You have to be patient with the machine to run it like this because the tension is really temperamental. You have to find a pretty perfect balance and stick with it. Small changes can ruin your stitches. But when you get it set just right, it’ll give you clean consistent stitches with a heavy thread that doesn’t look so dainty and fragile that’s more fitting for sheaths and holsters and such, which is the bulk of what I do. Anyway, sorry for the long, rambling comment.
You should have been able to use a larger needle without modifying. I used a 140 x 22 European size. But you were using thicker thread. Sounds like you had to modify for the thickness of the thread. Is that correct? Thanks for your comment!
@@sewingfun it was for the needle and technically the thread as well since it would rub the thread against the edge of the hole the needle goes thru. But the tolerances in these machines are crazy and there are multiple companies selling the same model. It's possible they're not all just licensing agreements but could be manufactured in multiple places as well. Mine came with decent sealed bearings in the main crank shaft but every other unit I've seen described had open bearings on them. They all seem to share the cheap manufacturing hallmarks we've all come to love so much like mill scale left all over, soot, scale and various other grit being picked into every nook and cranny, etc. But some do differ between vendors and there may be some units designed to accept larger needles from the factory. I have no doubt it's possible my particular machine had a smaller hole from the factory than some others do. But that needle for sure would never clear on my machine without modifications. Wouldn't fit thru the hole at all on first attempt. I don't doubt that it's possible some other machines are different and could handle it.
@@invictusbp1prop143 I am very interested in trying this mod, as I want to use beefier threads than I currently can. When I tried using such thicker threads in the machine it seemed like the thread was getting jammed all around the bobbin-- because it was too thick to travel around the bobbin inside the shuttle while making a stitch. Was considering trying to shave down the top and bottom of my bobbin so that this would not happen, but haven't tried this yet. Thoughts??
@@Kirby444 Definitely get in there with your favorite grinding sanding polishing tools and smooth out all the edges and remove all the rough stuff and scale inside the little chamber where the bobbin sits in the arm. Mine was full of scale and crud. There's so much that the thread can hang up on it's insane. The main challenge I had from the beginning was the thread getting punched between the needle and the foot and between the needle and the edge of the hole in the top of the arm. If I recall correctly, I had a lot of issues with thread getting tied up in there as well but part of it was also tension not being balanced correctly. Too much tension on bottom can make life miserable too. I run mine with basically no tension being added from the little spring steel leaf that pinches the thread when it comes out of the shuttle. It's there, but loose to where it doesnt seem like it's doing anything. Sorry I don't really know all the terminology. But I run the thread thru the hole farthest from the hook on the shuttle. On top, I run the thread thru the first tensioner with it tightened down to a medium-ish tension. So you can feel it grabbing the thread when you pull it thru but not so you feel like it's a struggle. Then I run it just straight thru the second tensioner so it's adding a little friction, but not routing it up and around the guides which I think would add more than necessary. It's basically just routed so the thread has a straight shot from the first tensioner to the spring where it turns to go up which makes it run thru the center of the second tensioner without going thru the guides. ...sorry that probably makes no sense at all. My point I guess was that tension may be the cause of some problems you think are caused by thread getting hung up around the shuttle. I got so tired of clearing that shuttle when it was jammed in the hole with thread pinched underneath it or just a rats nest that was jammed everywhere. Avoid the urge to force it if it gets difficult to turn. Make sure you're timing is good, everything is smooth and shiney, plenty of clearance for thread to pass thru and for the needle to pass thru. And make sure the arm is straight and aligned with the needle tube and that the foot is in alignment so the needle stays centered especially when you turn the upper part and foot to change directions and for back stitching. If it's not centered correctly, when you turn the upper part, the foot may come into contact with the needle and pinch the thread. Ok that's a lot of stuff to check. Ugh. Sorry for rambling. Oh one more stupid thing that can truck you into thinking something major is wrong ...make sure you're thread feeds without any obstruction or getting twisted up or hung up on anything. Big spools should feed off the top and be strung up thru some sort of thread hanger so it doesn't get bound up. I put a piece of all thread in the machine screw hole in the top of the frame and put an eye bolt in top to manage the thread. Small spools can go on the thread holder, but I added a plastic disk that sits up above the frame and the spool sits in that disk with a piece of tubing running up thru the middle so it feeds straight and the spool can turn freely as needed. If the thread gets hung up on something or it's hard to turn the spool because it's sitting in a weird angle or something, you'll waste a lot of time messing with timing and tension and everything else trying to figure out why your thread keeps breaking but it's really just be sure it's not feeding freely off the spool.
Drill a small hole in the side of the bobbin. Thread "The Bitter End" of the thread from the inside of the bobbin out through the hole and through the slot in the shaft. After filling the bobbin trim the "Bitter End" flush with the outside of the hole and cut the working end from the thread spool. Carry on as usual. - Joe -
IDEA CHALLENGE: Instead of re-winding bobbins, I think if you drilled a hole in the right spot, you could feed thread from a full spool on to the bobbin, wrap it around the bobbin a few times and then on to wherever it goes. What do you think?
Nice Plating on the parts, Mine did not come plated. Some of these machines come with bearings on the arms and some don't. I have two machines. I've enjoyed clean them up and have already saved $ on patching 11 jeans I wore out on my last job! THE MACHINE IS PAID FOR NOW. No leather yet. Thanks for the numbers on the needle and thread.
Did you take the machine apart and repaint it? I haven’t seen others with such a nice paint job. The paint job on mine is a sloppy joke. I just did a total tear-down of mine, and will make many modifications and improvements before it goes back together with a very nice paint job.
It´s a beautifull paint but ... without primer , it ´s not a good paint job . I´ll got mine monday and I´ll disassemble it and file sharp edges , bad looking stuff . Repaint ,rebuild and tune it .
He just likes playing with it. He took a pair of tie up shoes and make them to have a flap with velcro closure instead. So he could have easy on, easy off with them.
@@sewingfun one issue of this machine is that the stich looks weird. It has a different angle comparing other sewing machine. I think the LR needle (hard to find) might solve that issue. I ordered few needle and let's see.
@@user-a33kixd2wq44 I believe mine looks like a normal stitch? There's nothing normal about this machine. It will sew things that a normal sewing machine will never sew through. It's a bit of a challenge because it is so different
Thats why in them original Adler or Singers Patchers there is a grove on them bobins on one Side.🤔and you can use 160 size Needles if needed..
👍
I just put the shaft w bobbin on a cordless drill and it fills the bobbin in less than a minute!
Great idea!
Hello. Perhaps you can help. I bought the Chinese shoe patch machine in October of 2022. I spent a month watching videos, etc. For some reason I could not get the machine to pick up the bobbin thread. So frustrated I put in the closet for a year. Pulled it out recently, and finally fixed the bobbin thread issue. Once the bobbin pickup worked, then I had an issue of the upper thread breaking. Watched some more videos, and did some intense sanding of all the bobbin parts. That stopped the breaking. Now, the thread is too loose. Before I just immediately tighten the bobbin spring, can you tell what would be causing the bottom thread to be too loose on my finished tests?
The tension changes depending on which hole you put it in. And if the bobbin is forwards or backwards. Also the thicker the material the more tension, the lighter the material the lesser the tension. Also the spring has tension, depending on how tight the screw. So there are a lot of factors that affect it.
Thanks for your helpful tips. I’m new at this and you guys were great!
Glad it was helpful!
Very interesting. My Dad was a machinist and always encouraged us to "do stuff" :D
Mine too!
@@sewingfun How cool!
Amazing thank you just what I needed to see Harry
Glad we could be of help!
Duh,the wheel belongs in the groove.
🩷
Thank You, Dee and Dory You Rock ❤
Thank you!
Brilliant, I just got one of these, I am in the process of cleaning filing and polishing it....what a job that is, but it will be worth it in the long run....
Fantastic!
Good job👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks! 😃
Me a gustado la presentación y el embobinado del hilo... estoy muy interesado en esta maquina y creo será un viaje de aprendizaje muy ameno, un abrazo a ti 🤗
Thank you. We are glad you enjoyed it!
I have one of those sewing machines but cant get it to work, please let me know if you can work on it it's new ,let me know
What is your location?
@@sewingfun orange county Florida
@@sewingfun I can send it to you and pay you for your work
I’ve managed to run 277 thread in my machine. But it took some modification. I’m running modified 135 x 18 needles. First off, you have to break out the Dremel tool and waller out the hole in your access plate in the bottom (where the bobbin goes. Not sure what the official name is). Make the hole bigger and enlarge the channel that the needle runs down thru the base of the machine to accommodate the beefier needle. And you’ll need to adjust the bottom arm assembly so that the needle lands far enough toward the nose of the machine in that enlarged channel so that it will clear the bobbin shuttle. If you don’t make these adjustments, everything will come to an abrupt halt the first cycle when the shuttle turns counterclockwise while the needle is at max depth to pick up the thread. Last modification is that even with the enlarged hole and channel for the extra needle clearance, these needles are still too girthy to work well. Either they’ll scrub the thread on the presser foot or the edge of the hole and cause thread to break or you’ll end up crashing the needle the first time you move your work just a bit and cause any deflection in the needle. So I just turned the diameter of the needle down just a little bit by grabbing the top of the needle with some vice grips and rolling the needle on the sander just a little to take some of the bulk off of the needle diameter. That way you end up with a slightly smaller diameter with the larger hole you need for that heavy thread. You can sew heavier material that way and the needles are still plenty strong so you won’t be breaking them all the time like the smaller needles. Down-side is running that heavy thread in the bobbin means you’re loading it all the time. You’ll only get a couple feet of stitching at the absolute max. But I’m brainstorming a will soon be prototyping a couple ideas for a bobbin mod that will allow the bobbin to be direct feed from a spool underneath the arm of the machine instead of reloading bobbin all the time. No more reloads and no more of that crappy bobbin winder. You have to be patient with the machine to run it like this because the tension is really temperamental. You have to find a pretty perfect balance and stick with it. Small changes can ruin your stitches. But when you get it set just right, it’ll give you clean consistent stitches with a heavy thread that doesn’t look so dainty and fragile that’s more fitting for sheaths and holsters and such, which is the bulk of what I do.
Anyway, sorry for the long, rambling comment.
You should have been able to use a larger needle without modifying. I used a 140 x 22 European size. But you were using thicker thread. Sounds like you had to modify for the thickness of the thread. Is that correct? Thanks for your comment!
@@sewingfun it was for the needle and technically the thread as well since it would rub the thread against the edge of the hole the needle goes thru. But the tolerances in these machines are crazy and there are multiple companies selling the same model. It's possible they're not all just licensing agreements but could be manufactured in multiple places as well. Mine came with decent sealed bearings in the main crank shaft but every other unit I've seen described had open bearings on them. They all seem to share the cheap manufacturing hallmarks we've all come to love so much like mill scale left all over, soot, scale and various other grit being picked into every nook and cranny, etc. But some do differ between vendors and there may be some units designed to accept larger needles from the factory. I have no doubt it's possible my particular machine had a smaller hole from the factory than some others do. But that needle for sure would never clear on my machine without modifications. Wouldn't fit thru the hole at all on first attempt. I don't doubt that it's possible some other machines are different and could handle it.
@@invictusbp1prop143 I am very interested in trying this mod, as I want to use beefier threads than I currently can. When I tried using such thicker threads in the machine it seemed like the thread was getting jammed all around the bobbin-- because it was too thick to travel around the bobbin inside the shuttle while making a stitch. Was considering trying to shave down the top and bottom of my bobbin so that this would not happen, but haven't tried this yet. Thoughts??
@@Kirby444 Definitely get in there with your favorite grinding sanding polishing tools and smooth out all the edges and remove all the rough stuff and scale inside the little chamber where the bobbin sits in the arm. Mine was full of scale and crud. There's so much that the thread can hang up on it's insane. The main challenge I had from the beginning was the thread getting punched between the needle and the foot and between the needle and the edge of the hole in the top of the arm. If I recall correctly, I had a lot of issues with thread getting tied up in there as well but part of it was also tension not being balanced correctly. Too much tension on bottom can make life miserable too. I run mine with basically no tension being added from the little spring steel leaf that pinches the thread when it comes out of the shuttle. It's there, but loose to where it doesnt seem like it's doing anything. Sorry I don't really know all the terminology. But I run the thread thru the hole farthest from the hook on the shuttle. On top, I run the thread thru the first tensioner with it tightened down to a medium-ish tension. So you can feel it grabbing the thread when you pull it thru but not so you feel like it's a struggle. Then I run it just straight thru the second tensioner so it's adding a little friction, but not routing it up and around the guides which I think would add more than necessary. It's basically just routed so the thread has a straight shot from the first tensioner to the spring where it turns to go up which makes it run thru the center of the second tensioner without going thru the guides. ...sorry that probably makes no sense at all. My point I guess was that tension may be the cause of some problems you think are caused by thread getting hung up around the shuttle. I got so tired of clearing that shuttle when it was jammed in the hole with thread pinched underneath it or just a rats nest that was jammed everywhere. Avoid the urge to force it if it gets difficult to turn. Make sure you're timing is good, everything is smooth and shiney, plenty of clearance for thread to pass thru and for the needle to pass thru. And make sure the arm is straight and aligned with the needle tube and that the foot is in alignment so the needle stays centered especially when you turn the upper part and foot to change directions and for back stitching. If it's not centered correctly, when you turn the upper part, the foot may come into contact with the needle and pinch the thread. Ok that's a lot of stuff to check. Ugh. Sorry for rambling. Oh one more stupid thing that can truck you into thinking something major is wrong ...make sure you're thread feeds without any obstruction or getting twisted up or hung up on anything. Big spools should feed off the top and be strung up thru some sort of thread hanger so it doesn't get bound up. I put a piece of all thread in the machine screw hole in the top of the frame and put an eye bolt in top to manage the thread. Small spools can go on the thread holder, but I added a plastic disk that sits up above the frame and the spool sits in that disk with a piece of tubing running up thru the middle so it feeds straight and the spool can turn freely as needed. If the thread gets hung up on something or it's hard to turn the spool because it's sitting in a weird angle or something, you'll waste a lot of time messing with timing and tension and everything else trying to figure out why your thread keeps breaking but it's really just be sure it's not feeding freely off the spool.
@@invictusbp1prop143
Drill a small hole in the side of the bobbin. Thread "The Bitter End" of the thread from the inside of the bobbin out through the hole and through the slot in the shaft. After filling the bobbin trim the "Bitter End" flush with the outside of the hole and cut the working end from the thread spool. Carry on as usual. - Joe -
That's a good idea!
@@sewingfun You can also keep a magnet handy to pull the bobbin out of its home also.
Nice
Thanks!
IDEA CHALLENGE:
Instead of re-winding bobbins, I think if you drilled a hole in the right spot, you could feed thread from a full spool on to the bobbin, wrap it around the bobbin a few times and then on to wherever it goes.
What do you think?
The looper has to flip all around the bobbin, so it can't have the thread coming from underneath. It wold stop the machine from sewing.
Nice Plating on the parts, Mine did not come plated. Some of these machines come with bearings on the arms and some don't. I have two machines. I've enjoyed clean them up and have already saved $ on patching 11 jeans I wore out on my last job! THE MACHINE IS PAID FOR NOW. No leather yet. Thanks for the numbers on the needle and thread.
Thanks for commenting and watching. It works great on leather too.
If you run the thread through the tensioner wheel, you won't have to hold it while winding the bobbin.
Great idea! Thanks.
Did you take the machine apart and repaint it? I haven’t seen others with such a nice paint job. The paint job on mine is a sloppy joke. I just did a total tear-down of mine, and will make many modifications and improvements before it goes back together with a very nice paint job.
No the machine came looking this great. Thanks for watching!
It´s a beautifull paint but ... without primer , it ´s not a good paint job . I´ll got mine monday and I´ll disassemble it and file sharp edges , bad looking stuff . Repaint ,rebuild and tune it .
Boas!'qual a espessura da linha branca na agulha e na bobina! Por favor
The largest thread you can use is V207 or T210. The needle is a 15x1 with 140 European or 22 American hole size. Hope this helps.
What are the plans for the machine? I have a shoe design in my head for it.
He just likes playing with it. He took a pair of tie up shoes and make them to have a flap with velcro closure instead. So he could have easy on, easy off with them.
IF This machine available in India?
You can check it out on eBay. It shipped from China.
Excellent, thank you.
You are welcome!
Pra costurar coldres
Hope we answered your question.
you are so smart! Thanks you for the tipps. They help me a lot!
Happy to help!
@@sewingfun one issue of this machine is that the stich looks weird. It has a different angle comparing other sewing machine. I think the LR needle (hard to find) might solve that issue. I ordered few needle and let's see.
@@user-a33kixd2wq44 I believe mine looks like a normal stitch? There's nothing normal about this machine. It will sew things that a normal sewing machine will never sew through. It's a bit of a challenge because it is so different