I'm a novice, I started out in May of this year, and love trying my hand at silversmithing. Your vlogs are so useful, so thank you for taking the time to make them; this one especially.
Thank you so much for the information! Always wondered why pallions vs balling the solder as well as sweat soldering. Can hardly wait to save time on my clean ups now!!!
Nice tip, Andrew! Appreciate the way you explain it, only polished and detailed talking! One thing I got to say about the second method of soldering you showed is that in some cases it could be a little harder to make the top surface stable... the instruction you gave in case the surface gets round a little was to file or sand it, although it may be less efficient when it comes to tiny pieces. What I think would be an even better way to execute this kind of soldering is: after applying the flux and lying the sheets of solder, just give it a gentle heat with the tip of the flame to dry the flux and affix all together, and then place it on top of the bigger piece -since it is flat, obviously. The benefits you can take from it are: •A more stable surface between both pieces; •No needs to sand it, so you won't neither lose like a third of the solder you would use, nor mix solder alloy with the structural silver one; •Less chance to melt (or bubble its surface) by accident the first piece in two occasions -specially when dealing with granulation or thin wire, for example; •Direct contact with both parts to be joined, so they will certainly melt simultaneously. I hope you guys take it as another option. The technique master Berry showed in the video is indeed really useful, saves a lot of effort finishing the piece and opens our minds to perfect soldering. Would love some comment about it. Thank you!
Good to see you back! Love all your RUclips videos in addition to At The Bench online training (long time member). You were on such a roll with your Vlogs and wondering what your plans are to continue with them. Thank you for your dedication to educating us!
Hi there Andrew, I use this technique as much as possible, I’m not sure when, or from whom I picked it up but it does work so much better and leaves such minimal clean up. 😊
I've been watching all of your videos of late and it's really pushed me into becoming a Jeweller, even joining my local lapidary club. Your sweating technique videos are probably the best on RUclips, and your chanel has been a great resource for me. I've been using Argentium to practice with and the alloy allows solder joints and fused joints, so I ask the question, what technique would you use if given the choice?
Thank you so much andrew. That was very helpful. But Can you explain a little more why solder didn’t flowed the whole plate on second (sweat) solder . Even tho you flux the whole plate. 10:12 . What if you add another joint and flux it? Will it flow underneath another plate?
Wonderful video once again Andrew, would you be able to share the clean-up process for the sweat soldered piece? Would be great to know the best practice for pickling, cleaning, polishing etc.
Great video ! I'll defenatly try this technique. I'm just doing a slightly different technique as I am applying the Paillons directly under the pieces I want to join. It's a littly tryckyer because you sometimes have to correct the position after the flux has bubbled but at least there isn't any bleeding on the side. Was wonderring what you think about my approach ?
I can't do this with a bezel (or if it can be done, I'd love to know how), the wire is too thin to sweat solder onto. You mentioned it can be done with wire, would that be only a substantially thick wire? Also, I've been told and find to be VERY true, solder doesn't like pickle. I always have to wash the piece post-pickle/acid, not just dip/rinse in water if I need to do a secondary or additional soldering step. Additionally, after solder is melted -balled up or sweated onto the first piece (i.e. the first solder step), it seems as though there forms on it, a skin; is it because zinc having a lower melting point depletes/burns off first and actually increases the solders flow point for what becomes the second soldering step? The sanding of the solder melted on the surface of the piece has been helpful for removing that skin and seems to help the solder re-flow as well as removing excess solder as you demonstrated. These are my own experiences, Andrew do you find any of these posits to be true? I like to understand the physics and chemistry and as an avid student, I crave comprehension of these processes. Thanks so much for sharing your excellent methodss, they WORK - you know your stuff!
I’ve only ever done it the second way but I still have issues with solder coming out around the edge’s of the top piece. Maybe I’m using too much solder? Probably that. Never knew about the first technique but I definitely still prefer the second.
You're awesome! Direct, clear & to the point. Love the system of ?sjm?, the plate at front of bench to notch your tools on. Will all manufacturers tools work for this system that Rio Grande sells? Thanks in advance. ✌
Hey Andrew, in school I had "NO steel in the pickle pot" drilled into me. It looks like you are dipping your pieces into the pot with steel tweezers (I use copper tongs). Should I not be worried about steel? Thanks for all your great work!
When you pop the pieces into the pickle, you seem to using steel tweezers. Is it because you just dip that this does not cause an issue with copper coating?
Thank God we have this channel. No one explains it as well as you Andrew. Awesome.
Thanks Andrew, I love that you make it so clear plus the explanations are vital for beginners, much appreciated
I'm a novice, I started out in May of this year, and love trying my hand at silversmithing. Your vlogs are so useful, so thank you for taking the time to make them; this one especially.
After 3 years, any books or other channels or tips you'd give for someone just starting 😁
Hope you're having a fantastic 2022! ✌️☮️
Thank you so much for the information! Always wondered why pallions vs balling the solder as well as sweat soldering. Can hardly wait to save time on my clean ups now!!!
Best soldering advice I have ever got! Thank you
Nice tip, Andrew! Appreciate the way you explain it, only polished and detailed talking!
One thing I got to say about the second method of soldering you showed is that in some cases it could be a little harder to make the top surface stable... the instruction you gave in case the surface gets round a little was to file or sand it, although it may be less efficient when it comes to tiny pieces.
What I think would be an even better way to execute this kind of soldering is: after applying the flux and lying the sheets of solder, just give it a gentle heat with the tip of the flame to dry the flux and affix all together, and then place it on top of the bigger piece -since it is flat, obviously.
The benefits you can take from it are:
•A more stable surface between both pieces;
•No needs to sand it, so you won't neither lose like a third of the solder you would use, nor mix solder alloy with the structural silver one;
•Less chance to melt (or bubble its surface) by accident the first piece in two occasions -specially when dealing with granulation or thin wire, for example;
•Direct contact with both parts to be joined, so they will certainly melt simultaneously.
I hope you guys take it as another option. The technique master Berry showed in the video is indeed really useful, saves a lot of effort finishing the piece and opens our minds to perfect soldering.
Would love some comment about it.
Thank you!
Thank you! Will try it Tomorrow on a thick squared wire around a Bezel - Many thanks!
Good to see you back! Love all your RUclips videos in addition to At The Bench online training (long time member). You were on such a roll with your Vlogs and wondering what your plans are to continue with them. Thank you for your dedication to educating us!
Had a few months break but now I am back with the vlogs and regular hints n tips
Thank you Andrew for all your work
Miss your vlogs! This was great, always enjoy your RUclips videos and I’m an at the bench member too. I have learned so much from both.
Another great tip thank you. I am just starting out making jewellery in silver and I welcome all the tips I can get
Good to see you back :-)
Nothing can replace years of experience..well done,👍👍👍
Extremely happy your at it again. Thank you Andrew, you have been missed friend.
I love the videos!! I am a self taught Jeweler and metalsmith and enjoy seeing what everyone else is doing!
Wonderful! Thanks.
Hi Andrew, thank you for another detailed video. Your capillary explanation was very clear. :-)
Thank you so much Andrew! I am watching your videos and it helps me a lot!!!
I really learned everything from you. I've been pretty successful with the business I started. Thank you !
Thank you!! Excellent and valuable information.
Hi there Andrew, I use this technique as much as possible, I’m not sure when, or from whom I picked it up but it does work so much better and leaves such minimal clean up. 😊
I've been watching all of your videos of late and it's really pushed me into becoming a Jeweller, even joining my local lapidary club.
Your sweating technique videos are probably the best on RUclips, and your chanel has been a great resource for me.
I've been using Argentium to practice with and the alloy allows solder joints and fused joints, so I ask the question, what technique would you use if given the choice?
It would be fusing as there is not solder joint to worry about. But then it depends on what I was fusing.
Great to see you back!!!!
Thanks for the video. This is the way my teacher told me to do it too ^_^
And...another great video, Andrew! Thank you!!!
Thank you so much andrew. That was very helpful. But Can you explain a little more why solder didn’t flowed the whole plate on second (sweat) solder . Even tho you flux the whole plate. 10:12 . What if you add another joint and flux it? Will it flow underneath another plate?
Thank you Andrew. This is very helpful.
Brilliant! Thank you so much for sharing your successful & proven techniques!
Thank you for perfekt Way thank you fore shering.
Thank you!
Wonderful video once again Andrew, would you be able to share the clean-up process for the sweat soldered piece? Would be great to know the best practice for pickling, cleaning, polishing etc.
Thank you i have do your Way is so perfect thank you so much.
Learned a lot from you, thank you! Can you make a video on how to make a square bezel setting.
Great video with a lot of good information! Thank you.
Great video ! I'll defenatly try this technique. I'm just doing a slightly different technique as I am applying the Paillons directly under the pieces I want to join. It's a littly tryckyer because you sometimes have to correct the position after the flux has bubbled but at least there isn't any bleeding on the side. Was wonderring what you think about my approach ?
BRILLIANT !
Very helpful thank you
Very nice! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
I can't do this with a bezel (or if it can be done, I'd love to know how), the wire is too thin to sweat solder onto. You mentioned it can be done with wire, would that be only a substantially thick wire? Also, I've been told and find to be VERY true, solder doesn't like pickle. I always have to wash the piece post-pickle/acid, not just dip/rinse in water if I need to do a secondary or additional soldering step. Additionally, after solder is melted -balled up or sweated onto the first piece (i.e. the first solder step), it seems as though there forms on it, a skin; is it because zinc having a lower melting point depletes/burns off first and actually increases the solders flow point for what becomes the second soldering step? The sanding of the solder melted on the surface of the piece has been helpful for removing that skin and seems to help the solder re-flow as well as removing excess solder as you demonstrated. These are my own experiences, Andrew do you find any of these posits to be true? I like to understand the physics and chemistry and as an avid student, I crave comprehension of these processes. Thanks so much for sharing your excellent methodss, they WORK - you know your stuff!
Thank you for this!
I’ve only ever done it the second way but I still have issues with solder coming out around the edge’s of the top piece. Maybe I’m using too much solder? Probably that. Never knew about the first technique but I definitely still prefer the second.
Andrew, can you use this method for soldering a bezel to a backplate? I have such a hard time doing that with pallions.
What is that extra glasses you wear? Thank you
Andrew Berry please upload more videos, not for jewellery information only, because we love to see you :)
You're awesome! Direct, clear & to the point. Love the system of ?sjm?, the plate at front of bench to notch your tools on. Will all manufacturers tools work for this system that Rio Grande sells? Thanks in advance. ✌
Would this work with a bezel cup too?
Hi... great videos. Can I ask: what is your device for heating your pickle?
Hi Andrew, what acid would you recommend to clean the pieces. Also bearing in mind to use on other metals. Thanks in advance.
Would you use the same technique with paste solder?
Hey Andrew, in school I had "NO steel in the pickle pot" drilled into me. It looks like you are dipping your pieces into the pot with steel tweezers (I use copper tongs). Should I not be worried about steel? Thanks for all your great work!
I always use stainless steel tweezers. These are fine for use with acid and safety pickle
When you pop the pieces into the pickle, you seem to using steel tweezers. Is it because you just dip that this does not cause an issue with copper coating?
Brian Harrison They are stainless steel tweezers do they go not affect the safety pickle
👍
Hello I'm Lana in CA USA. I'm wondering if I need flex with paste
Solder
If it is just solder then you definitely need a flux
i like your presentations, but man you beat around the bush on this one. Actual tip starts at 8:40!
I love your show, but why do you say "At The Benches"? Instead of At The Bench. Just curious.
It’s Bench’s. It is the RUclips channel that belongs to At The Bench so it is not Benches but Bench’s.