I also have this Minolta Maxxum 7000 and it is a really excellent product. Beautiful photos, sharp and very well exposed. Why it is so cheap second hand, I have no idea. But it is worth every penny. Not a Nikon, of course, but very good enough.
This camera was the first autofocusing camera with interchangeable lenses, and had only one linear focussing point, thus we can call it primitive for sure. It was not been called Dynax, but simply Minolta 7000 in Europe. The next version, that came out in I guess in 1989 WAS called Dynax 7000, along other Dynaxes like 3000 and 5000. Yes it does suffer from bad LCDs, but you can figure out some functions via internal LCD and prepare camera for shooting. Until that LCD runs out, than this camera really becomes a useless brick. This camera also took those control buttons (mostly for exposure but other stuff too) to the mainstream of the day, but those was not novel; if I remember correctly, those was introduced for the first time in the Pentax ME super, what enabled that camera to have manual control over complete exposure times, in contrast to the earlier ME model. Now back in the day after I worked over summer on the construction for the first time, still as a teenager, I bought myself the Minolta 9000, with that same 50/1,7 lens. That camera was unique, course to this day it remains the ONLY autofocusing film camera with the winding leaver. On top of that, it had amazing spot metering capabilities, similar if not the same like Olympus OM3 & OM4 (which I intend to buy soon). A wet dream for a teenager I was, only the latest and greatest. HOWEVER... The next winter it repeatedly died on me, in not so cold temperatures of about 10C. The moment batteries got cold (only 2 without the grip) the camera was DEAD. Yes the moment you had put fresh, warm batteries the camera was back online so to speak, but the whole experience was underwhelming to say the least, course I still love to climb mountains in the winter, (I did skiing too but my knees had said "enough") so I quickly sold it while it still had some value. With that money I bought my first Nikon, a used F2, and continued to use mechanical cameras only, professionally or not, for a whole next decade...
I just pulled my Minolta Maxxum 7000 from it's dry storage area, in it's original blue case and in a camera bag. The rubberized areas, grip and focus ring on the lens are white from the rubber degrading, but it cleaned up. I was horrified to fine that I had left batteries in the camera, however there was no corrosion and the date on the batteries - good until 2017. At least they haven't been in there for 25 years! To top it all off, there was also a roll of film in it. I'll have to get it processed to see what's on it. I put in new batteries and it still works like a champ! No LED leakage, the meter works, the menu changes. I guess I'll keep it?
The release of the Minolta 7000 caused a true earthquake in the camera world back in its days. Some of the few things that it did not have were a mechanical shutter and spot metering, but apart from that this camera had almost all of the features of other camera brand's top line models plus a revolutionary auto focus system. Funny that you label it as an ugly camera because at the time I thought it looked very cool, like a camera from a science fiction movie and I most certainly wanted to buy one but just could not afford it. Ironically I still ended up benefitting from the Minolta 7000; I bought an almost new Minolta x-500 for a low price from someone who could not resist buying the latest trend. Remarkable to see that it's so cheap nowadays, much cheaper than the x-700, which everyone wanted to get rid off once Minolta released the 7000.
My personal experience is that with many of the LCD camera displays; if it has not bled it may never do so if you power it up on a regular basis. The displays also only bleed to a certain degree that varies widely, after which they are not likely to bleed further.
@@BriansPhotoShow I won't fix itself, but if the LCD is used and doesn't just sit for years I've noticed no bleed if there is none when I get the camera. I collect old computers and if you power them up a couple of times per year the capacitors don't leak. I'm guessing it's good to use old electronics regularly. I've also never seen LCD bleed expand on an already bleeding screen.
I would rate this as a much better choice for a first 35mm camera over something like a Pentax K1000. They shipped these by the ton, so you can still find ones in good working order at resale shops for pretty cheap. The early A mount lenses don't really have the "cachet" of a lot of used lens systems, and are of decent quality. More than good enough for a novice shooter. You can use it like an idiot-proof all automatic, or manual mode if you're a perfectionist. Like all first generation auto-everything cameras its NOISY. But it's still light, durable, and has good ergonomics. Take this out with the 35-70mm "kit" zoom, and you'll be surprised how fun it is to shoot and how good your results are.
That cameras is very Advanced for its time. It's a shame they used a low-quality LCD screen on that. I recently bought Minolta maxxum 5 which is much sleeker than this. All I had to do was fix the shutter blade which was easy. I would recommend the much later Minolta maxxum models.
Depends on what you expect of a film camera. The last series supports all modern A mount lenses, including SSM, SAM ones. As well as all flash features you can get off the iISO plattform. If you really want to go that route, you probably want a 7, maybe a 9 (with SSM upgrade). What the 7000 does (or the first series in general); it just works. It has Auto, P, and A mode to help you out - and M when you need it. All it requires is that you own some legacy Minolta glass with in-camera AF drive. Some of the primes you can get really cheap (50 1.4, 50 1.7, 28 2.8, 135 2.8, 50 macro) - zooms are super cheap, but there are many to avoid :) . Setting up flashes is not what you want with these old cameras, tho. One thing I really like about the first series is you can put in your AA/AAA eneloops. All the later cameras use special "camera" batteries...
hi tomorrow i will buy the same machine in the video but i dont know anything about that. what should I look for to make sure it works. ps i’ll buy it from letgo
I was GIVEN one with 50mm f1.7 and 35-105mm lenses and the Flash -- it worked FINE then has stopped working -- press shutter button -- nothing -- I looked in Book about the Batteries including the 'Hidden ' one -- all seemed OK -- what has gone wring -- has a small resistor gone in base-plate ?
For sale. Just haven't determined a price yet. Used it for several years. Worked great for weddings and company parties. Ideas for worth? Minolta Maxxum 7000 with extended battery grip 50mm 1.4 with rubber hood 70-210mm 1.4 zoom with macro 28-85mm 3.5/4.5 zoom with macro RC 1000 remote Eye piece extender with 2x magnification Maxxum 4000 flash with diffuser lens AI 1000 illuminator CG 1000 flash grip BR 1000 bracket for CG 1000 EC 1000 cable for BR 1000 Books for the control grip,flash,lenses,remote cord. Hoya 55mm FL-DAY PL-CIR 55-49 adapter R-(25A) 80A dHD 58mm IR950 infrared filter COKIN A.083 Filter LENS MASK 49mm mask/filter holder 55mm mask/filter holder LOWE-PRO Elite-II bag
@@danieldijo have not had time to research used prices and list it. I've been told ebay would be the best place to list. If you like when I get it ready to list I can let you know.
Brian's Photo Show these Minolta’s are a hidden value! The last Konica Minolta Maxxum 70 is also a gem! I think the Minoltas are value and will rise once they catch on.
Don't suppose you could help me with mine? I've replaced both the internal battery, and the AAAs, the LCD screen works; however the screen is stuck on flashing the frame count, even with no film in the camera. No buttons or functions work at the moment, just the same flashing frame counter :/
Late to the party, but a flashing frame counter is due to a dead or dying CR2016, a secondary battery which remembers your camera settings and usually lasts many years. This battery can be replaced by unscrewing the metal plate inside the battery compartment. Just be careful not to yank on the wires connected to the plate when you remove it.
@@raze3297 Many thanks! I will look into this further :) Also thankyou for your response, even if a year later, the camera is still sat on my shelf waiting for me to get round to it! You are much appreciated :)
When you say "showing dark", I guess you mean that you can't see anything in the viewfinder. I can think of two reasons why this might happen: 1. The lens cap is still on the lens, or 2. The mirror is stuck in the up position. The first problem is easy to fix. The second is a major malfunction which requires a skilled technician, and frankly I'm not sure the camera is worth the repair cost.
I also have this Minolta Maxxum 7000 and it is a really excellent product. Beautiful photos, sharp and very well exposed. Why it is so cheap second hand, I have no idea. But it is worth every penny. Not a Nikon, of course, but very good enough.
This camera was the first autofocusing camera with interchangeable lenses, and had only one linear focussing point, thus we can call it primitive for sure.
It was not been called Dynax, but simply Minolta 7000 in Europe. The next version, that came out in I guess in 1989 WAS called Dynax 7000, along other Dynaxes like 3000 and 5000. Yes it does suffer from bad LCDs, but you can figure out some functions via internal LCD and prepare camera for shooting. Until that LCD runs out, than this camera really becomes a useless brick. This camera also took those control buttons (mostly for exposure but other stuff too) to the mainstream of the day, but those was not novel; if I remember correctly, those was introduced for the first time in the Pentax ME super, what enabled that camera to have manual control over complete exposure times, in contrast to the earlier ME model.
Now back in the day after I worked over summer on the construction for the first time, still as a teenager, I bought myself the Minolta 9000, with that same 50/1,7 lens. That camera was unique, course to this day it remains the ONLY autofocusing film camera with the winding leaver. On top of that, it had amazing spot metering capabilities, similar if not the same like Olympus OM3 & OM4 (which I intend to buy soon). A wet dream for a teenager I was, only the latest and greatest.
HOWEVER... The next winter it repeatedly died on me, in not so cold temperatures of about 10C. The moment batteries got cold (only 2 without the grip) the camera was DEAD. Yes the moment you had put fresh, warm batteries the camera was back online so to speak, but the whole experience was underwhelming to say the least, course I still love to climb mountains in the winter, (I did skiing too but my knees had said "enough") so I quickly sold it while it still had some value. With that money I bought my first Nikon, a used F2, and continued to use mechanical cameras only, professionally or not, for a whole next decade...
Olympus > Nikon
I just pulled my Minolta Maxxum 7000 from it's dry storage area, in it's original blue case and in a camera bag. The rubberized areas, grip and focus ring on the lens are white from the rubber degrading, but it cleaned up. I was horrified to fine that I had left batteries in the camera, however there was no corrosion and the date on the batteries - good until 2017. At least they haven't been in there for 25 years! To top it all off, there was also a roll of film in it. I'll have to get it processed to see what's on it. I put in new batteries and it still works like a champ! No LED leakage, the meter works, the menu changes. I guess I'll keep it?
I would definitely keep it. Welcome back to the world of film!
The release of the Minolta 7000 caused a true earthquake in the camera world back in its days. Some of the few things that it did not have were a mechanical shutter and spot metering, but apart from that this camera had almost all of the features of other camera brand's top line models plus a revolutionary auto focus system.
Funny that you label it as an ugly camera because at the time I thought it looked very cool, like a camera from a science fiction movie and I most certainly wanted to buy one but just could not afford it. Ironically I still ended up benefitting from the Minolta 7000; I bought an almost new Minolta x-500 for a low price from someone who could not resist buying the latest trend.
Remarkable to see that it's so cheap nowadays, much cheaper than the x-700, which everyone wanted to get rid off once Minolta released the 7000.
Thank you so much for the video!! I just got one of this on US eBay and it’s only 20 dollars! Nice one~ I would try it when I could go out.
Have fun!
My personal experience is that with many of the LCD camera displays; if it has not bled it may never do so if you power it up on a regular basis. The displays also only bleed to a certain degree that varies widely, after which they are not likely to bleed further.
I hadn't heard that. I always thought of LCD bleed as a one of those "problems that don't fix themselves."
@@BriansPhotoShow I won't fix itself, but if the LCD is used and doesn't just sit for years I've noticed no bleed if there is none when I get the camera. I collect old computers and if you power them up a couple of times per year the capacitors don't leak. I'm guessing it's good to use old electronics regularly. I've also never seen LCD bleed expand on an already bleeding screen.
I would rate this as a much better choice for a first 35mm camera over something like a Pentax K1000. They shipped these by the ton, so you can still find ones in good working order at resale shops for pretty cheap. The early A mount lenses don't really have the "cachet" of a lot of used lens systems, and are of decent quality. More than good enough for a novice shooter. You can use it like an idiot-proof all automatic, or manual mode if you're a perfectionist. Like all first generation auto-everything cameras its NOISY. But it's still light, durable, and has good ergonomics. Take this out with the 35-70mm "kit" zoom, and you'll be surprised how fun it is to shoot and how good your results are.
That cameras is very Advanced for its time. It's a shame they used a low-quality LCD screen on that.
I recently bought Minolta maxxum 5 which is much sleeker than this. All I had to do was fix the shutter blade which was easy. I would recommend the much later Minolta maxxum models.
Depends on what you expect of a film camera.
The last series supports all modern A mount lenses, including SSM, SAM ones.
As well as all flash features you can get off the iISO plattform.
If you really want to go that route, you probably want a 7, maybe a 9 (with SSM upgrade).
What the 7000 does (or the first series in general); it just works.
It has Auto, P, and A mode to help you out - and M when you need it.
All it requires is that you own some legacy Minolta glass with in-camera AF drive.
Some of the primes you can get really cheap (50 1.4, 50 1.7, 28 2.8, 135 2.8, 50 macro) - zooms are super cheap, but there are many to avoid :) .
Setting up flashes is not what you want with these old cameras, tho.
One thing I really like about the first series is you can put in your AA/AAA eneloops.
All the later cameras use special "camera" batteries...
@@ysmg9010 standard battery sizes are always a plus in cameras.
hi tomorrow i will buy the same machine in the video but i dont know anything about that. what should I look for to make sure it works. ps i’ll buy it from letgo
Thanks for the video! What about Minolta AF lens system? I have manual lenses with SR mount and love most of them.
I don't know much about the Minolta autofocus lenses. I sold this camera shortly after I reviewed it.
I was GIVEN one with 50mm f1.7 and 35-105mm lenses and the Flash -- it worked FINE then has stopped working -- press shutter button -- nothing -- I looked in Book about the Batteries including the 'Hidden ' one -- all seemed OK -- what has gone wring -- has a small resistor gone in base-plate ?
thank you sir
For sale. Just haven't determined a price yet. Used it for several years. Worked great for weddings and company parties. Ideas for worth?
Minolta Maxxum 7000 with extended battery grip
50mm 1.4 with rubber hood
70-210mm 1.4 zoom with macro
28-85mm 3.5/4.5 zoom with macro
RC 1000 remote
Eye piece extender with 2x magnification
Maxxum 4000 flash with diffuser lens
AI 1000 illuminator
CG 1000 flash grip
BR 1000 bracket for CG 1000
EC 1000 cable for BR 1000
Books for the control grip,flash,lenses,remote cord.
Hoya 55mm
FL-DAY
PL-CIR
55-49 adapter
R-(25A)
80A
dHD 58mm
IR950 infrared filter
COKIN
A.083 Filter
LENS MASK
49mm mask/filter holder
55mm mask/filter holder
LOWE-PRO Elite-II bag
Did it sell?
@@danieldijo have not had time to research used prices and list it. I've been told ebay would be the best place to list. If you like when I get it ready to list I can let you know.
how it works with flashes?
Does anyone know where to locate the light meter?
Works through the lens?
How would you keep it so clean?
Put it in a closet and don't touch it for thirty years.
I bought a few of these very inexpensive from UK eBay charity shop and have yet to shoot some film with her..
Yes, the plastic-bodied SLRs of the 1980s and 90s are some of the best bargains around.
Brian's Photo Show these Minolta’s are a hidden value! The last Konica Minolta Maxxum 70 is also a gem! I think the Minoltas are value and will rise once they catch on.
Don't suppose you could help me with mine? I've replaced both the internal battery, and the AAAs, the LCD screen works; however the screen is stuck on flashing the frame count, even with no film in the camera. No buttons or functions work at the moment, just the same flashing frame counter :/
Late to the party, but a flashing frame counter is due to a dead or dying CR2016, a secondary battery which remembers your camera settings and usually lasts many years. This battery can be replaced by unscrewing the metal plate inside the battery compartment. Just be careful not to yank on the wires connected to the plate when you remove it.
@@raze3297 Many thanks! I will look into this further :)
Also thankyou for your response, even if a year later, the camera is still sat on my shelf waiting for me to get round to it! You are much appreciated :)
Hi thats a great video but my camera is showing dark. Do u have any idea why:(
When you say "showing dark", I guess you mean that you can't see anything in the viewfinder. I can think of two reasons why this might happen: 1. The lens cap is still on the lens, or 2. The mirror is stuck in the up position. The first problem is easy to fix. The second is a major malfunction which requires a skilled technician, and frankly I'm not sure the camera is worth the repair cost.
@@BriansPhotoShow I see:( thanks for the answer. I will ask for that maybe it can be fixed