Wish I Knew This Before Building My Workbench!
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- Опубликовано: 3 июл 2024
- Its been 1 year since I built my Paul Sellers Woodworking Workbench. Today, lets discuss some changes I would make when I building my next hand tool bench.
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Wood is Good 20 Ounce Mallet
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Wood is Good 30 Ounce Mallet
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Stanley Sweetheart Chisels
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Stanley #4 Bench Plane
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Stanley No.62 Low Angle Jack Plane
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Stanley Marking Knife
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Husqvarna 13” Wooden Hatchet
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Dewalt 20 Volt Drill and impact driver
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Развлечения
Here is the link to the original workbench build video! ruclips.net/video/GzHMfhUK4R0/видео.html
LastingBuild laminate some hardwood onto the top of the bench. Should be easy and it’ll make your well deeper.
Yellow pine is softer but more dimensionally stable than a lot of hardwoods and its better having the bench dinged than the work.
*Perfect size...much lighter than the one I owned previously **MyBest.Tools** Folds up nicely and holds adequate amount of weight for "around the house" projects.*
IDEA: WORKBENCH HEIGHT - Concrete floors are tough on feet. Instead of lowering your workbench why not add a cushioned base to stand on while at the bench. Think about trip hazard and you may want it to span between benches. Just an idea and worth twice what you paid for it. Good tips. Thanks. We are moving and a new bench is on my radar.
I find that horse stall mats are a cheap and easy way to ease back and joint paint from prolonged standing.
And if it's still a bit too tall, trim the legs to fit. Better too high than too low.
Lots of great insight. One reason many woodworkers prefer a softwood bench top is if you drop a project on the bench, better for the bench to take the dent than the project. Something to consider.
That’s a really good thought!
That and 2x4s are cheap and easy to get.
I've had both hard and softwood benches. Would never go back to a hard surface. To me if it's a softer than the project that's a good thing. If you spend a month with a hardwood benchtop you would understand how much damage they cause. Soft and stable that's the perfect bench. Take no time at all to clean up or flatten a softwood top.
Flat workbench surfaces are where I love to store things, like my tools, and wood chips, and sawdust, maybe some pencils, measuring devices, some sort of finishing goo, that iced tea I was drinking, and pretty much anything else. When I run out of room there, I just put stuff on top of all that other stuff. Then I spend probably 3/4 of every project looking for stuff I literally just had in my hand. Wait, here it is, in my hand. This way when I finish a project, I can feel proud and say to myself, “I wonder if I can pay someone to clean this up.”
😂
I thought it was just me...😹
How dumb was I to build a small 2x4 storage box right next to the bench? Basically just turned into a trash can that I can reach into and pull a tool out of, while cutting the hell out of myself occasionally... To compensate I built a small band aid box holder on the inside leg of the bench 😅
I would consider putting another Wilton vise to the right of the first one. Two vises make a big difference in the stiffness of the part you are working. It's a standard approach in machine shops for long parts. Lovely-looking workbench!
I’m not so much a woodworker as a wood abuser. Having gotten back into the hobby after a number of years, I really appreciate hearing what someone would do different based on their experience of using the thing they built. Very informative. Thanks!
Thanks Scott!
You don't have to build another bench. Cut the legs to put the table at the height you desire. Inset the vise to make it flush to the side of the bench. Drill through the stringer to accommodate the screws for your end vise. Make a video on how you customized the Sellers bench to meet your needs.
Al Woods cut enough off the legs to allow you to add a hardwood top. This would also give you the extra depth in the tool well. Similarly fix a hardwood side rail to get the vice flush.
I was thinking that it would be simple to build the front out around the vise to make it flush, rather than re-mounting the vise. If you use hardwood for that piece it, the long top-front edge would be more ding-resistant. At the same time incorporate a sliding deadman with holdfast holes to support long work. Easy for me to say, right?
I was told that after you make a work bench, the first thing you should do is take the largest mallet you have in the workshop and smack it down hard into the middle of the bench. That way you're not going to be afraid of actually using it after you've just taken the time to build it. Also, softwood takes damage much more easily than hardwood, which means your project isn't taking damage. Plus, if it's getting really scratched up, and it's becoming an issue, plane the surface a little, just don't forget to wallop it with a mallet when you're done...
Thanks for sharing! Since I built my bench in 2018 its taken many wallops!
Frithgar Amen
I suppose the issue some have is the vise is already flush with it ti begin with. Maybe the vise should be offset to account for future resurfacing?
Funny, that's what my dad told me about getting a truck. If its new and pretty take it on a quad trail and get a few scratches. That way you aren't afraid to use it to its potential.
Same about a hired hand wearing clean overalls. Throw some mud on him so you can get some work out of him.
Thank you! Perfect timing as I'm designing my bench now!
Thank you for sharing we’re all in this together
Your points ring true with me, as I am currently dreaming about building a workbench. Thank You for sharing
A lot of decisions are involved with something so important as a woodworkers workbench! Good luck!
I’m building the Paul Sellers work bench now. Thanks for the honest input.
Your welcome! My workbench build series may be helpful to you!
Nice to hear that! Thank you Jim for all you do! Still working on the Shop remodel. Got all the junk thrown away. Now have to do the floor. Still 🥵 HOT!!!
Hopefully fall is coming soon
softwood tops will absorb blows to chisels etc, Hardwood benches will cause a rebound effect when you hit a tool with a mallet or hammer which will make repeated blows harder to line up and will have an effect on your hands , wrist joints , fingers which is an issue with my arthritis , just a different point to consider.
Frankly using mallet and chisel hurts my ears every blow. I wear ear protection. Seriously considering using a thin absorption matt to ease the sound and force
@@brandtl1486 I have my ear protection constantly in my shop. They are a type of Headphones so I have a podcast or tunes going.
I like the softwood too for the same reason. Plus dents don't bother me that much on the bench. Especially if it would have been the work instead
I resurface my heavy-ish MDF slab bench top with 3/4 maple flooring.
Tool wells have stuff sticking up that catches/damages the project and collects junk and debris. I made a couple of 6 inch deep x 16 inches long boxes with a small work surface off one box side (cantilever kind of thing) that has pegs glued underneath that drop into my dog holes. Boxes hang off the bench anywhere around the bench out of the way.
Real value in this long-term review/lookback. Thanks!
Thanks! Glad it’s helpful for you!
One thing is for sure, with all that you have learned. Your next Work Bench is going to be awesome. Hope you post the video.
I’ll never be able to decide on the design 😂
All good points. I am about to build my bench. I will keep all of this in mind. Thanks.
Subscribed. Thanks I’m planning to build a bench soon and you gave me a few things to consider. Much appreciated
Thanks for sharing your experience with us, it is very helpful to see this kind of review.
Glad it helps!
Designing my bench and I truly appreciate this input. I will be making modifications based on your regrets and comments. Nice work bro.
Lessons learned videos are great. hindsight is 2020 so its nice to re visit the project after some time like you've done here. Thanks so much
👍
Rusty Boyer - I really liked the presentation. Just honest evaluation.
I can’t have a tool well! If his looks like that, I don’t want to find out how fast mine would fill up with crap leaving me with a too skinny bench top.
Thanks for the pointers. Very helpful for me 😊
Your welcome!
Very useful video thanks.
I built a solid oak workbench, fairly low, with a removable moxon vice for raising the sawing height and a sliding deadman for clamping bigger boards and doors. After 6 years of use I have 2 real regrets. First, I wish I had used a hardwood like beech with a bit more give for the top as it can be bouncy and very noisy when using a mallet. Secondly, I put in a large Record 53 as a tail vice, which is less useful than I expected and does cant too much when clamping at one edge of the bench. I am replacing this with a wagon vice as the design will not allow me to do most things that I need (the design will not accommodate a twin screw vice).
Great tips 👍. Thanks for sharing the mistakes you made in building your workbench. I would’ve not thought of the clearance needed for the end wise.
Great info! I’m building my first “real” bench now. I’m sure after a couple years, I’ll find the things i wish i did differently
Thanks for the good counsel about building a (another) workbench. I purchased a small bench several years ago and need a larger, taller, heavier bench. I appreciate all the suggestions and gained awarenesses. I add to the challenges you've identified by being left handed. Believe it or not, virtually all benches, like tools, are designed for right-handed users. I didn't even think about the placement of the vises on my purchased bench until I started using them. They are on the wrong end and wrong side of the bench..., but they are for a southpaw. Thanks for all you share.
Your welcome! Your vises would be opposite of mine but would still work the same! I think!!
I like the deeper tool well. It's a great idea! Thanks for sharing the upgrade ideas!
-Will
You bet!
Thanks so much. Very helpful
I am wanting to build my first work bench and you gave me even more to think about. I have watched so many videos on building a work bench. It can be overwhelming. I think I’m going to build a split top Roubo style with the board in the middle that you can flip over and it will stick up or be flat. I think if I did a tool well it would be on the outside of the bench like the one jay bates did. Or even something underneath the bench top. I would love to have a pattern makers vice. Great video. Thanks.
I noted your revisions to the workbench. I need a long workbench and would like to make my own. Thanks for your tips!!
I used similar plans from Paul Sellers to make a plywood workbench. Totally agree with an overhang on the right side to allow for a larger vise. I did do that and can use dog holes with the vise to hold long pieces of wood in place.
I also use holdfasts on the front and back sides for long boards. On the front, I made a L-shape filler board the thickness of the vise gap and it rests on top of the bench easily to support longer boards. Works like a charm with a holdfast to give extra support on the right side of the vise.
Last modification was doing a smaller center well with more work surface on the other side. Original intent was to make the bottom easily removable for clamp access, but yet to do that, so I screwed the bottom in place for better stability.
Nice Review.
Suggestion for end vise: bore holes in the cross member to accommodate the vise shafts and screw. You won't lose significant strength and also won't increase overhang too much. jus' sayin'
This was really very helpful. I'm thinking of building a new bench. Downsizing a little.. So, you confirmed what I was thinking about the depth of the tool well too.
Glad to help! Good luck with your build!
Great video, you hit on your concerns. I am currently rebuilding my bench, your experiences will be helpful. Some one already suggested using half inch hardwood top. I am also considering using a quarter inch Masonite top and then just replacing it as needed. Re tool well I suggest you use it as a tell for what needs it's own place. Like for example your mallets. Thanks for the Video.
The “work too high when in the vice” is easily remedied by raising what you’re standing on - something like a sheet of plywood ripped in half and attached to the flat side of a simple 2x4 frame gets you up a cpl of inches - and can be used on sawhorses for an assembly surface when not standing on it. Your side vice could be inset into your top so you have that flush face/apron to support your work. The end vice- just breadboard the end w a 2-3 2x4s. As long as you mount them so the bench can move (Don’t glue stuff cross-grain -use long lags and elongated slots) it’ll work fine for you.
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A simpler solution for if your workbench is too high. Trim the legs and lower it a bit. It is wood after all.
Great tips! I'm about to make my first work bench and your tips will come in handy. Thanks
Great! Good luck with your build! 👍
thank you . and yup i had my work bench for 2 yrs . i really want to make a new one . well it was fun to make
Workbench pathos exists.
I have a few thoughts that might help fix some of your issues:
1. When you're making your first bench designed for hand tool work, make it taller than you think you need it and trim the legs a little bit at a time till you find the right height. After that, any new bench just gets built to that height (or follow the same process, your call).
1a. Watch some of Rob Cosman's workbench building videos, he makes a "leg extender," for lack of a better term, it's basically a box that gets slid under the legs that raises the height to make it easier to work when sawing or chiseling, then remove them for planing. It's fitted tightly to the legs so that you don't get extra movement in the bench when pounding on a chisel with a hammer.
2. Cut a recess in the apron so that the rear jaw of your vise is flush with the apron. You may have to add material under the work surface to attach the vise.
not much you can do about the tool well, other than build a cover for it!
Hope these help...have a great weekend!
Thanks for sharing!
This makes sense and should be an idea people think of commonly. And if you wood work or even blacksmith( can go hand in hand) having something comfortable to stand on just makes sense. Good advice all around.
Nice video. I too am making the Paul Sellers workbench. Working on the leg joinery now.
I opted to make mine about 2 inches shorter than his - (his is 38 inches), I considered not having a tool well, but decided to go with a slightly smaller one (9.5 as opposed to 11). I know there is real potential for allowing clutter, but I am also determined to change habits. The well is useful, provided my habit is for temporary storage. I also opted for a wider bench top 14.5 inch rather than 12
Due to space concerns I also opted for a less long of a top. I should be ok with 55 inches.
I made my workbench before I was on the Internet and it really looks it. I've been wanting to make a new one for a long time now but it kind of does the job so you know how that can go.
Good video - thanks for the advice from your experience. Kudos also to all your commenters! I am only half way through them and there’s a treasure trove of great advice from all of you who have commented!! 👍🏻👍🏻
👍thanks!
The video was great thanks and so are the earlier comments. I made my bench a bit like a heavy duty sjobergs workbench made entirely from oak. In retrospect that oak top is too rigid and is a bit bouncy and noisy when chiseling as it does not absorb any of the impact, especially with a hard mallet. If i made a new bench I would probably choose beech for the top. The other thing that I would change is that I used a Record 52E as a tail vice with jaws the full width of the workbench. A twin screw would be better, but I think a Veritas tail vice would be better suited to what I do. Adding a sliding deadman is worthwhile too and i am glad I did this.
very much informative Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
A removable tool well would be sweet, like those older wooden open top tool carriers. Easy to dump out to clean and start over
I think the 'junkdrawer' in the middle of the bench is actually useful if you are Highly disciplined . I am not ! So ... no . Keep clutter on a rolling cart . It's my best solution so far . 😉
Totally agree proper bench height does matter. I was gifted a nice heavy duty bench and used it for many years. It had became problematic as i have aged. Being 6 ft and haveing low back problems was painful ended up adding rather large 4 in lock casters. Made a huge difference with mimimal cost. My youngest daughter wants the bench when im gone she is 5ft 7. So removing the casters will be easy. Thanks for the vice tips as i do not have one on my bench. Thanks for sharing:)
Thanks Regina!
I like a larger flat surface on my work bench and 2 vices in case i need to hold a long piece . Instead of the the trough i use a 4" x 3 ' box that i keep common used items at the work bench ( Screw drivers, calipers , pencils, squares, small pieces of sand paper, flash light, allen wrenches , etc,. It can be removed easily and set aside so i can throw something on the work bench for glue up etc. My workbench is not as traditional as yours but much more versatile . I made mine of yellow pine also . I nail, glue , epoxy , or what ever and about twice a year i take the power planer and belt sander to it and it looks new again. 10 years so far and holding its own. Good video , you sort of have to build your workbench to what you uses are and sometimes it it evolves as you go. My thoughts are keep it simple of front , build a bench a see how it works for you . Your next bench will be even better.
I have an old workbench, made in the 1970's by my dad. It is made of hardwood (unknown) and very heavy. I screwed 3/4" plywood to the top about 25 years ago to protect the original surface. I also fitted steel casters running on angle iron bolted to the shop floor, so that I can move the bench to access both sides. I use my bench for wood as well as metal work. for the metal work I bolted a piece of mild steel 12" x 18" 2" thick to the corner furthest from the woodworking vice. I added a metal working vice to the same end. As I do not have the luxury of other stands or tables, I fitted my bench grinder, belt sander and drill press to the side of the bench opposite the woodworking vice. This setup, although cramped has served me well for the past 25 years.
Instead of holdfasts in my dog holes, I have 3/8" holes with 5/16" t-nuts underneath and a handful of various length bolts and pre-drilled 2x2s handy for holding things down. To make it even more useful, all of my benchtop tools are mounted to plywood with holes drilled in them so I can easily "clamp" them to the bench.
Great ideas.
Glad you like them!
This video popped up when I was watching the Paul Sellers video on adding the sharpening shelf to his bench. I just finished my bench to his design. Several things I did differently are the height is 38" ( I'm 6'1 and this feels comfortable for me so far. I can always cut it down.) The bench top is 21" wide with a 4" wide well (Yeah I collect a lot of stuff on my bench top too. I figured it would help keep things organized). I made the length with the apron 12" longer than the plan with a 12" tail sticking out past the ends of the aprons. This gives me a bench 90" overall with 78" apron area. So far so good. I'll keep your comments in mind as I start working on my bench. Thanks for the bench review.
Thanks for sharing! I still use my Paul sellers workbench everyday
Excellent video, showing a great ability to learn, and adapt! Your observation, about the softness, of the top, has caused me to adjust my own build plans. I didn't take the time to cruise the comments, so I may or may not be the 657th guy to suggest you consider a "Roubo" style bench, if you do build another workbench. You mentioned work-holding frustrations, and, I have to say; the guys who use Roubo benches, never have that concern, since every side, of the bench, including the legs, is a perfectly even clamping surface. Also, the familiar leg vise, combined, with it's partner, the sliding "deadman", is the most rock-solid method, of clamping a board, on-edge, that has eve been invented. My only modification, to the traditional variations, is the inclusion, of a wide "Veritas" vise, at one end. The vise installs easily, clamps about 18", between the bars, brings two points of contact, in opposition, to your dog holes, and resists racking. Well, that should be enough commentary, to light a firestorm, of abuse, from the armchair know-it-alls! Cheers!
I agree the Roubo style workbenches are nice!
Hi! I like your suggestion to put dog holes along the edge of the bench to fasten long boards. I hadn't thought of that one! I did mount my vise so the face of the back jaw is flush with the edge of the bench, then as you said I use a bar clamp across the bench top to secure a long board or a door. But the bench top is ALWAYS cluttered with tools and materials that have to be moved aside to place that bar clamp. A dog into the edge! What a great idea.
Doug, glad to help! It’s amazing how much the workbench affects the workflow and overall satisfaction of the task at hand!
I love ur shop! Good video.
Thanks a bunch!!
I used a inch a ⅛ plywood for my work bench and I love it, one of the things I Did think about was hight wish I had know about dog bone those are neat!
Paul sellers lowers the rail so a tail vise fits
Good tips on the height and the work surface.
Consider making a toolbox that will fit inside your tool well and can hold everything that sticks up too high. Then when it comes time to use the whole bench for clamping or assembly, you just need to move that one box full of stuff out of the way.
For me I like a tall bench. It saves my back.
I also love soft wood like a red pine because it doesn't bounce as much when using a chisel and if I do dent something I want it to be my bench not that custom cabinet I worked on for 20 hours.
I like to be able to grab around my work when using my vice. So I enjoy it not being flush. I have a 24 inch vice mind you so it's heavy duty and I like really clamping things down tight.
I have also seen a craftsman talk about how a hardwood bench can transfer more vibration back on the hands when using a mallet, since there is not much flex. My bench looks terrible, but it still works great so I have no complaints.
@@Wuffman
The way I see it is the make baseball bats out of ash and maple not cedar.
@@answeris4217 True, but the baseballs themselves are leather and string. Not everything need to be equally hard for it to work. (Great user name by the way)
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Good job Jim
Thanks buddy! Your doors are looking good!
Finishing my bench up right now actually. I appreciate your comments, I did incorporate a leg vise and a sliding dead man (thanks to several youtuber vid’s). Also allowed room for the end vise. Where did you find your hold fast? I do like your idea on the tool tray and I will try to adapt something besides a.rolling cart (which fills up regularly). Again thanks for the video and comments you provide. BTW, I agree with others, saw those legs off that extra inch you want, why wait until the next build? Lastly, interesting concept of a hardwood overlay. Thanks again
I have a video reviewing the holdfasts. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for this video.
I've been watching workbench build videos for a couple of weeks, and I'm glad I did.
As soon as I watched, I wondered if you'd considered adding to the front of the workbench top a piece to make the vise flush with the bench face.
Glad you enjoyed it!I have considered that!
I'll be building a joiners workbench by the end of the Year. It will be 7' long by 3' wide and 40" high. I'll fit an apron vice and a tail vice. I won't bother with the tool well. I'll have a shelf beneath the top, 👍🔨🇮🇪
Going to start my work bench build soon and just wanted to see what I can do or not do. I am going with oak top and pine for underneath .This was great information Thank you. Bi the way I subbed you to see more of your content
Franks DIY thanks!
Planing a door shouldn't be much problem on that bench, you could lay it on the floor and still be able to get an end in your vice, should be rock solid like that. My vice isn't flush on my bench, i ve found that a peg hole is enough to support the weight and my vice holds it well enough. Great clip and nicely made bench 👍👍
Thanks for sharing your experience!
Hey Jim congratulations on 10K!
Hey Tim! Your not far behind! Thanks
Great info, thanks for sharing, it’s always easier to learn after a year of dealing with the flaws.
I left a comment on Sellers' video in which he mounted the vise to his bench. I said that I did not like having the vise proud of the apron, which leaves the workpiece unsupported. He responded as he does to all criticism, which is to be dismissive. He later posted a video to defend the proud vise mounting position, and it contains a lot of falsehoods. There is one key thing to note about his bench, and that is that it fits his unusual working methods. He does almost everything with the workpiece held in the face vise, and that is not typical at all. For instance, he doesn't use a bench hook to cross cut a board, he holds it in the vise. Having the vise proud of the apron allows him to do that without cutting into his bench. I could go on about his unusual "vise centric" methods, but if you just watch him work in his videos you will see it for yourself. You have to judge for yourself if you want to emulate his methods, or go with the more common methods.
Thanks, very informative! Workbench is like a fingerprint, they are unique for each person :) Since I don't have my own space for woodworking, I will build my first workbench (Roman workbench height) and it will be a regular bench on weekdays. The vises will be removable and can be stored underneath along with the bench dogs and clamps. Also, I will make the top removable from legs so I can carry it to the ground floor -- I live on the second floor.
Thanks for sharing!
For starters I don't have a work bench....at least NOT YET and by the way I am 55 years old and always wanted a shop and a work space AS WELL AS a work bench!! BUT with that being said my shop currently is only 8 foot by 8 foot to start with so I do a lot of my work outside. Currently I am working on designing a work bench that has pneumatic tires on it that swivel, and a jack system to "raise and lower" the bench onto and off of the tires (parked position)!! The idea being I can "jack up" the bench and move it in and out of my shop, and once I have it where I want it or need it, I lower it back onto the legs to "mount it" in a "parked position" to use it!! Another reason to use pneumatic tires is because my shop exits into my yard, where normal casters would just sink into the ground!!! So I need a tire that will ride on top of the grass!!
Further another reason for my design is I often find myself being asked to help my step son who lives in the next county over. So it would be awesome to have a work bench I can "lift up" roll up into the bed of my truck (fully loaded) and roll it up my ramps, then "strap it in" for the ride to his home as a "enclosed unit"!! This way I can visit him when he needs help with a project with all the tools I need in ONE location and just wheel it where I need it at will!!
Here on RUclips, there is a guy who built a work bench that has a tow hitch (receiver hitch) off a truck mounted to it!! The receiver style hitch can that be used to mount tools to it like a shop vice or certain saws as needed and the "receiver" part of it can be modified to hold any number of tools if you use a bunch of different receiver ends that can be "changed out as needed"!! In other words one receiver can be attached to a bench vice and the next can have a grinder mounted to it, or even a small drill press and so on, this way you can interchange tools quickly as you need them, and they store them away later when you don't need them to give you your work space back!! I thought it was a wonderful idea!!
Another thing I am thinking about doing is "reversing" a ceiling mounted drop cord self reeling system!! We have all seen those "pull down" cord reels that hang from your shop ceiling in many shops. BUT if you switch the ends so the female plug is on the "down" or "reel side" and the male end is on the "extension" or "pull out" side, then attach THAT to your work bench as a "self winding extension cord" to power your work bench. Simply because when I work I always seem to end up in my yard because I have way more space than in my 8 foot by 8 foot shop!! And having to wind up a cord gets to be a pain that I have dealt with for years now!!
Lastly I have a wood rack in my shop!! It isn't huge mind you, and I used a French Cleat to hold it to the top of my wall which my wall height IS ALSO 8 feet tall with a Gambrel Roof. So I have more than enough wood storage!! So I want my work bench to have tool cabinets on board and use barrel locks to keep them locked as it moves!! Space in my tiny shop is a premium so anything I can do to make things "portable and self contained" helps!!
After watching several videos on work benches, I believe that mine will have adjustable legs so the height can be changed if necessary. You make a great point about your power stroke when planing and it would be nice to be able to change that height as needed.
Adjustable height bench will not be a stable bench. I wouldn't.
Great info and comments. Love your French cleat walls. I'm just about to start my bench build and almost went with the Paul Sellers bench when I changed my mind and chose to build the EnglishWoodworker.com bench; he has interesting work holding solutions, so you don't need to add a lot of hardware to your bench. I saw a great video of a Nicholson vice from TheUnpluggedWoodshop. Thanks for your videos, they are inspiring.
Thanks for the link! Will check that out!
Nothing better than white oak for a workbench. That is my opinion. Old-growth out of an old barn is my fav. Almost any wood will be softer than a tool edge.
Yeah I have a crappy old cutting board under my bench that I break out and put down on my bench for whenever I have to chop on it. I guess you could chop right on the surface of a workbench but that is going to eat it up. I don't care what it's made out of. Well maybe if you have a steel plate welding table that you woodwork on. Be hard on the tools then I'd imagine.
I’m in the planning stages on my “retirement workbench “ so far the best info I’m getting is from “The workbench book” by Scott Landis and of course “The Workbench Design Book” by Chris Schwarz. I like Paul Sellers bench but agree it had some short comings but it’s a damn fine bench design non the less. Thanks for the info !
Thanks for sharing! Good luck with your bench!
Thanks for sharing! Good luck with your bench!
Grizzly sells oak workbench tops 1 1/2” tho you could glue to your existing top. Drill your dog holes thru from bottom.
Cut 3” from legs and you end up with the height 1.5” lower and a deeper tool well and hardwood top. Glue/screw spacer to edge of your table the thickness of your edge vise.
Can you just cover/layer the top of the bench with hardwood? This change would result in deepening the tool trough by whatever hardwood thickness you add. Once you have settled on the material thickness, you can then shorten the legs to get the desired plane height.
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If you add a hard top (say 1") to the bench that will automatically lower the tool well.
Then cut the legs to suits :)
Not sure why you'd need a super strong end vice - I don't believe they need that much strength just to hold the odd board for planing.
Then simply recess the existing euro vice into the bench - that is what Paul Sellers does on his original video.
Also, I personally love to see a few marks on a bench - it shows your wife that you are actually working in there!
Parafinn Lamp going to say the same thing also if the laminated top was longer would fix the end vice conundrum .
First world problems !
It’s quite simple to solve at least three of your issues. As regards height you could just cut an inch or inch and a half from the bottom of your bench legs this will allow you to shave or plane your lumber at your preferred height.
You could build a shelf or drawer underneath the bench to keep those tools which you use frequently but don’t need on the bench all the time.
Finally you could remove the vice and the cut and recess to allow the inside surface to become flush with the outer edge.
These are all easily done and are not complicated.
Totally agree, hes thinking inside the box ,and not outside the box. Not saying he Is dumb , sometimes you need another person or perspective to solve a problem
Although, your video is 4 years old, I just got to see it today (so forgive me for the long reply because I get wordy).
I have a small shop and it is terribly organized with not enough room for a workbench.
The only workbench I have is one that I've inherited from my Father-in-Law. The bench is beautiful old Swedish (Sjobergs) workbench, and it's one of those you can purchase but to be honest I don't use it much and other than storing my hand planes, it doesn't do much for me. I put it on casters (which was a mistake) in order to be able to move it, but because the workbench is too light, whenever I do want to plane something on it then I have to brace the bench against something solid (like a wall) otherwise I'll be chasing the bench and whatever I want to plane around the shop.
While I think the Sjorbergs bench I have is beautiful and I love the vises, they don't work for me. Either because I'm either too dumb and/or perhaps because I don't know how to use the vises. I find that if I clamp a flat piece of wood on the vise to work on the edge, it doesn't clamp it hard enough for me to put pressure on it to plane without the piece moving. Maybe, I'm too much of a brute (probably true since 23&Me says I've got some Neanderthal in me).
In addition, my Table Saw area takes up nearly a 1/3 of my shop and if I need to do anything long at all I'll need to open the garage door. Although, I have a two car garage the garage has to serve at minimum of 3 functions (sometimes 4). The Laundry is in the garage, There is storage in the garage, my workshop is in the garage, the water heater is in there as well as the furnace and to top it all off my wife needs a workout area all this in a two car garage (not a true 2 car garage but one of those with the single door).
Anyway, all my whining is to say that I am looking for a solution and just because you can get something for free or cheap from someone, it may not necessarily be what you need and may cause you more of a headache than a solution.
I’m about to build this same bench. One thing I’m doing with the front vise is making where it will clamp the work piece flush against the apron. The vise board will have dog holes in line with a few on the bench itself. This way it gives the vise a little more versatility having bench dogs to secure work pieces in different ways. Just my thought on the matter.
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I also have a Paul Sellers bench and the only thing I would agree is the flush face vice. I'm not set on the protruding vs face and would like to try having it on the face. Some stuff Paul never used are holdfasts and I've barely seem him use a planing stop. I've adapted mine to use those. The tool well needs discipline. I have boxes under the bench for random crap and always the same always at hand stuff on the bench: my bench planes, chisels, hammer and mallet, squares. Everything else comes and goes as soon as it's job is done.
The flush vs. proud vise is something to think about. I do like the idea of easily placing something in a proud vise (Seller's method) but at time like it being flush, especially if I were going to do something long as you pointed out. 95% of what I do is quite small so a proud vise works well and have one mounted flush and one mounted proud (side and end vises).
I dont care for the sellers table design because I like a larger full surface but I made mine out of poplar with walnut runners for the holdfast holes many years ago and its held up perfectly. I think the walnut runners keeps things even and helps it last. Everyone said it wouldn't last a year that was 5 yrs ago. Try the hardwood runner idea it worked for me.
Good idea!
That's nice vice advice
Mine is built from ash with a maple top. Love it, little marring even after 15 years. No tool holder because its a catch-all no matter how deep it is. I am surprised you did not research this before you went through the trouble of building one
I built a 900 mm wide workbench with a tool well in the middle and work surfaces either side. I used Australian red ironbark (because I live in Australia)for the bench top but any hardwood is better then pine.True, the well will become a depository for items but I built a full width, full length drawer with heavy duty slides to fit under the bench. I also fitted a twin screw vice and bought extra chain to bring it out to the full width of the bench.if you decide to put in a twin screw vice, try to design the bench to accomodate it. Utilising the twin screw vice I now have clamp which is as wide as the bench is long by putting 4 equally spaced holes in the wooden vice jaw and corresponding holes all the way along the bench top in 200 mm increments.True, the tool well will always fill up but we just have to be disciplined to deal with it. I keep most of my tools in the drawer as they are nice and handy and I don’t have to walk to the shelves to get any of them. Any body who puts their tool just used, away every time it is used would never get anything done. The main purpose of what we do is to enjoy what we do and to bring a beautiful object out of the chaos, whether it is too many tools or a thousand shavings on the bench. I built my bench trying to discipline myself to build something that is functional as well as being something that I can admire every time I look at it and believe me it was well worth it.
Thank you for the very thoughtful comment!
David Warren how did you go planing the ironbark?! You’re a brave man...
Ian Forrester. Well Ian, I dimensioned it through the thicknesser and guess what? I Have now installed a spiral cutter head for any future iron bark. The straight cutters don’t last long
Great follow-up. I loosely followed Paul's bench also, but gave up finding a suitable softwood since the big box store only seems to carry firewood grade. I used 8/4 poplar instead and it's held up fine. It's the cheapest hardwood on the market along with not being too hard to plane by hand. The one exception was the plank that holds the line of square dog holes--a 1by piece of oak. I also set the height at 40 inches., which alleviates shoulder strain from chisel work.
I do like working with poplar especially with hand tools! It has a really nice look as well.
I do like working with poplar especially with hand tools! It has a really nice look as well.
1. Southern yellow pine gives great splinters. But if that doesn't bother you, relax and enjoy the fact that your work surface, compared to oak or maple, is a "dead anvil." Blacksmiths always want lively anvils, but woodworkers who chop and saw want dead ones. You don't want your mortise chopping strokes bouncing half way back up to your shoulder, you want the full force of your mallet strike to be absorbed into the workpiece. And build a cheap plywood work table for assembly, glue-up and finishing to keep your work surface nicer.
2. You don't need to use temporary spacers with your front projecting vise. Just build up the apron of your bench until the rear jaw is flush with the new apron. Problem solved. You'll also want to build out the front legs until it is all in the same vertical plane as the rear jaw of your vise.
3. You don't need to power through edge planing. In fact, you should be bending over a lot to judge edge planing, so closer to the eyeball is easier. If face planing is taking too much muscle power grind a plane blade on a curve, maybe an 18" radius, for roughing in. Use it at 45 deg. going in one direction down the workpiece, then at 45 deg. to the other way, going back. Saves a lot of effort. Bump the sole of your plane with furniture wax ir Crisco every 10 strokes. Old timers had a "fat box" slightly larger than the plane's sole. They filled it with lard (today:Crisco) and regularly bumped the sole in it.
Good luck.
For a work surface, simply screw a piece of hardboard to the top. When it gets all dinged up, flip it over. To inset your vise, screw a board, of the right thickness, to your skirt.
Steam the bench top before you resurface, it'll take some of the dings out.
Excellent points, was about to start my bench top today. Now you got me thinking. I hate that. Lol
I share the bench with my father, he's 5'4" I'm 5'11", bench height is a challenge.
Glad to help or at least make you think before building!
Thanks for the video. I am a hand tool woodworker and have been doing so for 6+ years. Some things I've learned:
1. At 6' tall, I find the 36" height too short and wish the bench were taller. It works fine for hand planning but chisel work, sawing, etc is a bit uncomfortable. If I were to do it over again, I'd start at 40" height. FYI, Paul Sellers builds his bench at 39" height.
2. My bench is nestled up against the wall which works well for a multiuse garage. I'd much rather have a situation like yours where it is more in the open.
3. Mine is made from maple and happy with the hardness of the wood.
Just started wooodworking as a retirement hobby and am wrapping up a Paul Sellers workbench. At this stage I am trying to figure out a dogging system and find your video very useful. I ended up mounting a 7" Record vise on the side (as and endvise). It has a retractable metal top post to use with a doging system. Was lucky in that I made the bench longer (72 inches) and did leave the extra clearance to the legs to mount it. I plan to complement that vise with holdfasts in the top surface, in a similar way that you have. Instead of a front vise, I am making a crochet and will drill some dog holes and holfast holes in the side skirt. My concern is that the skirt may not be thick enough for the holdfasts and am wondering if I should re-enforce it. Comments and critiques welcome.
AlexM3J it should be easy enough to glue some backing material to the skirt if you find it’s needed! Thanks for your comment and welcome!
I was also thinking of making this workbench. The thing i was not sure about was the tool well. I almost wanted to loose the tool well and make the top bigger. The thing I’m not sure how to approach is choosing the vise. Good video good advise to consider.
Glad I could help!
I just got all the lumber for my workbench build, so this was well timed. One thing you could do without waiting for your next build would be to permanently install that spacer. You could bore the holes for the holdfast now and start taking advantage of it with your current build.
Thanks for the video!
You can recess the Wilson vice to make it flush, just set it low and rabbet the inner jaw to also sit over the top of the jaw so it’s flush with the top. Also you just auger holes for the side vice screw and rods. If you do it right it makes it stronger.
For the height just put some adjustable height screw in rubber feet on the bottom, for the odd occasion you have a large workpiece. Also helps with levelling if the floor is off.
Like these www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-adjustable-machinery-feet-ax864273