Yes, GM’s Top Engine cleaner is what a dealer would use also sold as ADCelco X66P. Most engine degreasers have Diesel as the number one ingredient. I would suggest throttle valve cleaner, Berrymans B-12 Chemtool and as mentioned a bottle brush. Never throw away a tooth brush because it goes into the garage. Also, a lite coating of a silicone paste lubricant on the injector o rings will allow easier installation and if you want your rubber door / trunk seals to last longer, use it there also. It’s listed in the owners manual, like page 1,534. LoL. Kent p/n K-44 comes with a brush applicator, or at least the 5 cans I have do. You can leave the injectors attached on the rail, seals remain undisturbed and makes it easier to install, at least for me. I have seen oil catch cans with just an SOS pad inside. This scares me and would install a small inline low pressure fuel filter under it on the return side. A automatic or P/S filter works well also. Just a belt & suspenders approach while thinking out loud. ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
Great vid!! Clear and concise. you also gave several options as to how to clean and THANKYOU for NO ANNOYING SILLY BACKGROUND MUSIC or children making noise.
coupla comments respectfully: you push on the metal clips to remove the connector to the injectors. The part at the back of the manifold is the Mass Absolute Pressure sensor. The Oil Pressure sensor sits right behind that on the block.
When I did my rebuild, mine was nasty inside. I purchased a car that had a bent connecting for due to hydrolocking. The intake had some nasty water in it too.
Oderless mineral spirit from Wal-Mart cheap and by the gallon. Also a bottle brush will help you reach down the runners. For the catch can if you bought the cheap one from eBay I can show you how to modify it so it works better. Goodluck
Hot water .... Dawn soap (the blue one) and dump a gallon of cleaning vinegar in the tub and it will make a difference when cleaning ... still tough but it helps...
That's not nasty, lol. I cleaned mine a few months ago, and it had about a half inch of hard carbon coated all around the inside. It had a small crack in it, and so I finally picked up a used one today, and it had the same half inch coating of carbon. This one looks spotless in comparison! Good video though, I'm currently soaking mine in old engine oil to loosen up all the crap. Then I'll do the dish soap, then a bit of scraping, then probably a last clean with dish soap and degreaser.
How noticeable was the crack? I'm getting a lean bank 1 and 2 condition after a set of new injectors and intake gasket set. Ruled outthe gaskets and going to reinstall my old injectors so if it trips the code again.
@@20tea Mine was missing a little piece of plastic that jutted out to hold on the air filter housing, and so there was a crack maybe 2cm*2mm, and it had oil running down the back of the engine block. The car ran OK, but never ran great, but that didn't change at all when I got the new manifold. I only ended up replacing the manifold because it failed the NCT (MOT) test, because the air filter housing wasn't securely attached!
Acetone/brake cleaner/carb cleaner will eat the plastic. Simple green and dish soap won't touch the gunk. You need parts cleaner or diesel fuel. Fill a tote with about 8" of diesel. Soak the intake. Then use a soft wire brush to clean it. It's a messy job.
Always replace gaskets when your swapping an intake. Dishwasher method works the best with high heat cycle. Engine degreaser leaves a greasy film. You don't want that crap in your intake. Replace that TB gasket as well. Also, make sure the guys that are installing that or if your doing it yourself, grind down those ribs on the intake and smash down the steam tubes a little on your engine. I have a video on what I did on my channel.
If you are replacing an ls1 intake with an ls6 intake you should use the ls6 style steam vent lines. the rear two are just block off plates and the front two connect together and then go to the throttle body heat crossover unlike the ls1 steam line spider that connects to all four places.
What did the engine valley look like under the manifold? Just curious. I have a bunk of "grease" from oil and am wondering if it's from the oil in the intake seeping out through the intake gaskets, or the valley pan gasket.
did you have any complications as a result of this? I cleaned my intake in a similar fashion (as well as injectors using a different process of course). after putting back together i hydrolocked a cylinder and blew my motor. I though was broken injector flooded cylinder but maybe was water that didnt come out of intake?
I really think my hydrolocking was due to stuck injector in the end. I also left the truck to prime the fuel injectors for a couple minutes. Had been super careful about drying the intake.
@@matthewjeschke I can't be 100% certain, but I'm pretty sure it was a broken (stuck open) injector and not a wet manifold. I assume you shook out most of the water, dried it somewhat. It takes quite a bit of water to hydrolock an engine. More than a damp intake. Are you sure it's hydrolocked and not another reason it seized?
My 2015 Silverado 1500 6.2 just bent push rods on cylinders 4 and 7. Doing a AFM delete. 117k miles, got it torn down now, and the intake system is filthy. I've torn down many engines in my day and this is the absolute worst by far. I've kept my oil changed and treated the truck well. Didn't use vast amounts of oil, maybe a half quart between changes. If this is by design, it's a piss poor product. The combustion chambers were so bad I can't believe the injectors even worked. Piston tops, intake ports and valves are nasty and I've done the intake valve cleaning procedure a couple times. This is my first experience with a LS/LT based Engine and I'm not impressed. My LT5 in my 1990 ZR-1 is damn near spotless after 80k miles. I love my truck and the engine actually ran great until the lifters expired. I'm adding a catch can maybe two, I have to clean this up. The cylinders look great, can still see the honing marks on the walls. I feel like with the new BTR cam, ls7 lifters and cleaned up intake system the engine will live a lot longer. GM needs to go back to the drawing board on this. I guess it generates more business for the service department. They wanted 8k dollars the put the junk lifters back in, I'm doing the delete myself for a fraction of that. Sorry for the rant, good info in your video, soon as I get the heads finished, will be intake time. 👍👍🏁🏁
Doesn't matter if there's a little bit of water left in the intake manifold. Look at Eric the car guy cleaning intake and cylinders and you will know why.
when I replaced the knock sensors on my Sierra 5.3 LS I was worried that Id cracked it during bolt removal and looked up the cost fo a new one were I to have a vac leak. $520. Needless to say I did a little jig in the driveway when it cranked right over and ran smooth! /. But then? Steve Harris and the cops came along and hauled me off to jail and I still don't know what for..😇. BTW do not trust the Dorman knock sensor kit. Im in the middle of doing it the 2nd x around as they crapped out AGAIN after only 3200 miles. Its the number 2 fix on GM 5.3s and its ridiculous to have to remove the intake for the R&R.
SIMPLE green won't touch the oil and carbon on the inside. Best thing to do is fill a rubber made tote with diesel fuel. Soak the intake in diesel fuel and clean it with a brush.
I've owned my C5 for 17 years and cleaned the manifold several times. Soak it in Simple Green and hot water over night (be sure to pace it upside down so no air is trapped inside), then use a linear nylon wheel brush with an extended handle to scrub inside while agitating in the tote. Do this several times until clean. Discard cleaning solution where it doesn't pollute the environment.
Literally just did my 799 heads with the LA Awesome! It works for real. The motor had 210k miles, mild oil stains and crud from leaks and such, came out looking brand new.
Hot water works better. It helps to melt the grease. fantastic, 409, or like type cleaner does a good job, finish it off with dawn dish washing liquid, it also helps get rid of the grease. I worked at an engine shop many years ago, we used all kinds of household cleaners after the parts came out of the Hot Vats. Tide does a good job of breaking down the grease. This seems crazy, but after spending all that time cleaning parts to get rid of oil and grease, we sprayed WD-40 on machined surfaces to keep them from rusting. Try to avoid aerosol cleaners, I have problems with my lungs from many years of using these products.
I would probably get fined more than the cost of a new intake for doing this where I live. They don't take this sort of thing kindly 'round these parts.
Yes, GM’s Top Engine cleaner is what a dealer would use also sold as ADCelco X66P. Most engine degreasers have Diesel as the number one ingredient. I would suggest throttle valve cleaner, Berrymans B-12 Chemtool and as mentioned a bottle brush. Never throw away a tooth brush because it goes into the garage. Also, a lite coating of a silicone paste lubricant on the injector o rings will allow easier installation and if you want your rubber door / trunk seals to last longer, use it there also. It’s listed in the owners manual, like page 1,534. LoL. Kent p/n K-44 comes with a brush applicator, or at least the 5 cans I have do.
You can leave the injectors attached on the rail, seals remain undisturbed and makes it easier to install, at least for me.
I have seen oil catch cans with just an SOS pad inside. This scares me and would install a small inline low pressure fuel filter under it on the return side. A automatic or P/S filter works well also. Just a belt & suspenders approach while thinking out loud.
ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
Dawn detergent works soak with hot as you can stand water a shake it in the tub and dump it out two times usually is enough.
Glad to see another fellow Corvette owner and YTber! Keep up the good work on your videos bro
Great vid!! Clear and concise. you also gave several options as to how to clean and THANKYOU for NO ANNOYING SILLY BACKGROUND MUSIC or children making noise.
6:37 me when going for a wee at 2am
coupla comments respectfully: you push on the metal clips to remove the connector to the injectors. The part at the back of the manifold is the Mass Absolute Pressure sensor. The Oil Pressure sensor sits right behind that on the block.
Respectfully, "manifold" absolute pressure. MAP sensor
When I did my rebuild, mine was nasty inside. I purchased a car that had a bent connecting for due to hydrolocking. The intake had some nasty water in it too.
I’m gonna try the soap method with mine. Thanks
Very important to bypass that system.
Oderless mineral spirit from Wal-Mart cheap and by the gallon. Also a bottle brush will help you reach down the runners.
For the catch can if you bought the cheap one from eBay I can show you how to modify it so it works better. Goodluck
oil down the gutter, nice.
Hot water .... Dawn soap (the blue one) and dump a gallon of cleaning vinegar in the tub and it will make a difference when cleaning ... still tough but it helps...
That's not nasty, lol.
I cleaned mine a few months ago, and it had about a half inch of hard carbon coated all around the inside. It had a small crack in it, and so I finally picked up a used one today, and it had the same half inch coating of carbon. This one looks spotless in comparison!
Good video though, I'm currently soaking mine in old engine oil to loosen up all the crap. Then I'll do the dish soap, then a bit of scraping, then probably a last clean with dish soap and degreaser.
Mine has 325k miles on it going to clean it when I swap to my built motor I did the bypass at like 280k Haha cant wait
How noticeable was the crack? I'm getting a lean bank 1 and 2 condition after a set of new injectors and intake gasket set. Ruled outthe gaskets and going to reinstall my old injectors so if it trips the code again.
@@20tea Mine was missing a little piece of plastic that jutted out to hold on the air filter housing, and so there was a crack maybe 2cm*2mm, and it had oil running down the back of the engine block. The car ran OK, but never ran great, but that didn't change at all when I got the new manifold.
I only ended up replacing the manifold because it failed the NCT (MOT) test, because the air filter housing wasn't securely attached!
@@JoeBob79569 thanks! I got an 07 yukon with the 6.2. I'll check for cracks around there too.
Update, turned out to be my new injectors that threw the lean code and not the new intake gasket.
Acetone/brake cleaner/carb cleaner will eat the plastic. Simple green and dish soap won't touch the gunk. You need parts cleaner or diesel fuel. Fill a tote with about 8" of diesel. Soak the intake. Then use a soft wire brush to clean it. It's a messy job.
M Barilla whats the best let’s cleaner you use on plastic?
@@juliotorres3481 I had great luck with LA’s totally Awesome degreaser. The dollar store stuff.
While I watch this mine is in the dishwasher 🤣
No way what?
You need to get some kind of brush and brush it every where you can.....
You didn't show the back of the valves. Was there build-up?
Do you have a favorite Catch-Can?
This is awesome!!!!
Wd40 rinse and some detail bricked and a toothpicks and then soap and ,water to rinse
High pressure sprayer?
Always replace gaskets when your swapping an intake. Dishwasher method works the best with high heat cycle. Engine degreaser leaves a greasy film. You don't want that crap in your intake. Replace that TB gasket as well. Also, make sure the guys that are installing that or if your doing it yourself, grind down those ribs on the intake and smash down the steam tubes a little on your engine. I have a video on what I did on my channel.
If you are replacing an ls1 intake with an ls6 intake you should use the ls6 style steam vent lines. the rear two are just block off plates and the front two connect together and then go to the throttle body heat crossover unlike the ls1 steam line spider that connects to all four places.
Will this intake manifold work on a 1998 gmc k1500 5.0l. 1/2 ton pickup z71 ?
It should.
@@mycorvettelife I I can remove my lower intake I see its curved like the lower intake. Im guessing I just change em out ?
What did the engine valley look like under the manifold? Just curious. I have a bunk of "grease" from oil and am wondering if it's from the oil in the intake seeping out through the intake gaskets, or the valley pan gasket.
I haven’t taken the intake off my car yet. This is the LS6 intake that I got to replace my LS1 intake. I’m sure it’s going to be bad.
did you have any complications as a result of this? I cleaned my intake in a similar fashion (as well as injectors using a different process of course). after putting back together i hydrolocked a cylinder and blew my motor. I though was broken injector flooded cylinder but maybe was water that didnt come out of intake?
No I didn’t. You definitely need to make sure it’s 100% dry. Water can get trapped in the runners. Blow it out with air.
I really think my hydrolocking was due to stuck injector in the end. I also left the truck to prime the fuel injectors for a couple minutes. Had been super careful about drying the intake.
@@matthewjeschke I can't be 100% certain, but I'm pretty sure it was a broken (stuck open) injector and not a wet manifold. I assume you shook out most of the water, dried it somewhat. It takes quite a bit of water to hydrolock an engine. More than a damp intake. Are you sure it's hydrolocked and not another reason it seized?
I think something else caused this, can you really blow your engine because you cleaned the intake manifold like what?
I meant like that. Especially if you dried it the amount of water would have been so minimal.
My 2015 Silverado 1500 6.2 just bent push rods on cylinders 4 and 7. Doing a AFM delete. 117k miles, got it torn down now, and the intake system is filthy. I've torn down many engines in my day and this is the absolute worst by far.
I've kept my oil changed and treated the truck well. Didn't use vast amounts of oil, maybe a half quart between changes. If this is by design, it's a piss poor product. The combustion chambers were so bad I can't believe the injectors even worked. Piston tops, intake ports and valves are nasty and I've done the intake valve cleaning procedure a couple times. This is my first experience with a LS/LT based Engine and I'm not impressed. My LT5 in my 1990 ZR-1 is damn near spotless after 80k miles. I love my truck and the engine actually ran great until the lifters expired.
I'm adding a catch can maybe two, I have to clean this up. The cylinders look great, can still see the honing marks on the walls. I feel like with the new BTR cam, ls7 lifters and cleaned up intake system the engine will live a lot longer. GM needs to go back to the drawing board on this. I guess it generates more business for the service department. They wanted 8k dollars the put the junk lifters back in, I'm doing the delete myself for a fraction of that.
Sorry for the rant, good info in your video, soon as I get the heads finished, will be intake time. 👍👍🏁🏁
My Corvette Life How long did you wait for it to dry ? I did mine and I'm scared that there's still moisture
A couple days. Set it in the sun and it will get pretty hot.
Doesn't matter if there's a little bit of water left in the intake manifold. Look at Eric the car guy cleaning intake and cylinders and you will know why.
@@mymoonny why would it matter? It will burn off nearly instantly.
How do you clean the injectors without ruining them?
That them to a professional.
What is the benefit of doing this?
All good
Can I use brake/parts cleaner?
Yes
@@mycorvettelife 7:17 Sorry. I made the comment back during the regular cleaning part and hadn't made it that far in the video yet.
Hey putting it in the dishwasher may help. Wale on second thought my not help happy home. Maybe get partswasher at harbor freight ha ha.
That's a MAP sensor on the back of the intake
Nope be worried id miss water some where and in the engine it goes ..
Is brake parts cleaner safe to use on plastic?
How much for a new one
More than some water and soap cost.
when I replaced the knock sensors on my Sierra 5.3 LS I was worried that Id cracked it during bolt removal and looked up the cost fo a new one were I to have a vac leak. $520. Needless to say I did a little jig in the driveway when it cranked right over and ran smooth! /. But then? Steve Harris and the cops came along and hauled me off to jail and I still don't know what for..😇. BTW do not trust the Dorman knock sensor kit. Im in the middle of doing it the 2nd x around as they crapped out AGAIN after only 3200 miles. Its the number 2 fix on GM 5.3s and its ridiculous to have to remove the intake for the R&R.
Use simple green works great for this.
William Dean it does wonders.👆👆
SIMPLE green won't touch the oil and carbon on the inside. Best thing to do is fill a rubber made tote with diesel fuel. Soak the intake in diesel fuel and clean it with a brush.
I've owned my C5 for 17 years and cleaned the manifold several times. Soak it in Simple Green and hot water over night (be sure to pace it upside down so no air is trapped inside), then use a linear nylon wheel brush with an extended handle to scrub inside while agitating in the tote. Do this several times until clean. Discard cleaning solution where it doesn't pollute the environment.
Don't forget to remove the ribs on the underside of the intake. They need to go to clear your steam lines.
302VetteLife pretty sure you’re not supposed to do that haha
Great stuff Chris. Does Breezy know you used her Tupperware? haha
Sssssshhhhhhh! 🤣
Took mine off for the first time 22 years old looks new. Catch can on NA cars is laughable. But I like to your videos
Soak in straight LA’s totally awesome for a week and it will come out looking like new inside.
I also use this trick for heads
You mean the aluminum heads? So, if I have a stripped down bare aluminum head, just let it soak in LA's Totally Awesome degreaser for a week?
Literally just did my 799 heads with the LA Awesome! It works for real. The motor had 210k miles, mild oil stains and crud from leaks and such, came out looking brand new.
Hot water works better. It helps to melt the grease. fantastic, 409, or like type cleaner does a good job, finish it off with dawn dish washing liquid, it also helps get rid of the grease. I worked at an engine shop many years ago, we used all kinds of household cleaners after the parts came out of the Hot Vats. Tide does a good job of breaking down the grease. This seems crazy, but after spending all that time cleaning parts to get rid of oil and grease, we sprayed WD-40 on machined surfaces to keep them from rusting. Try to avoid aerosol cleaners, I have problems with my lungs from many years of using these products.
Man that was dirty Chris!!! Hope that junk doesn’t stain your driveway. 😳
Nah, I washed it into the street.
Please don't pry on the tips of your injectors, they are pretty fragile on that "business" end and I'd hate to see you have a problem.
I would probably get fined more than the cost of a new intake for doing this where I live. They don't take this sort of thing kindly 'round these parts.
Why people live in Cali ??? Look around there are much better places to live !!!
Time for a catch can
Yep
Anyone else shocked he’s just letting oil run down the drain?
Great video but never salute with your left hand ever again. EVER
What are you gonna do about it?😂
This is why your wife left you.
He’s not in the service. It doesn’t matter 😂
put it in gasoline. naptha, etc.