I just found this (30.11.23) as I'm planning on fitting one to my Warco 280. Well done for fessing up to re-welding the bracket. And I thought it was only me who does that! 😄
I think I have that very kit. It came with a used machine I recently purchased. Nice video and, since no manual came with the kit, I have what I need to install this. Thank you! Very nicely illustrated and narrated as well.
Thanks for posting your install. I had mine pre-installed and getting to the back for the Z axis would have required a lot of messing about. Having said that, I'm sure you will really like having the DRO. I can't imagine doing without mine.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it. They are so handy aren't they. Iv'e used them on various machines over the years but never had one on my home shop lathe until now. Got one on the Bridgeport as well which is super handy. Thanks for the support. 👍
noice, you made me smile with the word (little} which you use many times, buying a bomatec tomorrow for my cazenueve 575x2000, did not realize that the scale moved on the cross slide. so learned something
@@Handmadeextreme thank you everything is double difficult since I had a stroke 4 years ago but I plug on I was a yacht building take a look at my channel if you have the time
Thanks very helpful , I'll be doing the same job myself soon , there are some small sockets available that take taps so you can use a1/4 or 3/8 drive ratchet makes life a lot easier in those confined spaces .
Nice video, but based on the DROs I've seen, the 4 threaded holes on the bracket were actually for grub screws, that can be used to securely hold the bracket flat on an unflat surface, acting as spacers where they need to. I think the holes for actually mounting it were the ones on either side, between the threaded holes? It doesn't make much difference in your case as you mounted it on a flat surface anyway but all of the DROs I've seen have been mounted with grub screws to hold them straight even if they're on a curved surface.
Interesting, great comment. I did wonder if the larger holes in the centre were for mounting it but the kit didn't come with any hardware that diameter. What you say does make perfect sense though. Iv'e learnt something new here today. Thanks very much and i'm glad you enjoyed the video.
Great video. I happen to have a Harrison M300 and bought a DRO almost the same as that, so your video helped me enormously. I didn't need to turn the cross slide bracket upside down, and didn't quite understand why you needed to. I still need to install a tailstock stop and I need to figure out how to run the cabling so its out of the way. I was a bit concerned about swarf getting into the back of the Z axis scale, so mounted that on an aluminium plate first. Thanks for posting this!
installing the dro screen is a personal thing ofcorse, but usaly it is fittet to the table on a stand, on this lathe mounting it on the gearbox is fine, but on bigger lathes you want it where you are doing the job, and the table follows to where the work is done. anyway nice video.
Buen trabajo, gracias por compartir tus conocimientos Estoy automatizando una fresadora , que se podría implantar en un torno, en mi canal estoy subiendo la información
Nice precise video on installing DRO. I just bought mine and this got me thinking about how the X axis mounting technique would be applied to my lathe. I have a Clausing 5914 which has a similar cross slide configuration, But I noticed on mine that there is very little real estate on the slide on top to drill into and compound rotation is very tight with maybe 1/8 inch clearance. So i have no other choice but to attach from the side of the cross slide. I am very concerned with where to drill as not to disturb or weaken the gib areas etc... Thanks for the video though it has allowed me to glean more ideas of how to mount the unit.
Glad it was helpful. You may find it is easier to attach to the front of the cross slide, just something to consider. I also was concerted about the gibs, the angle bracket seems to have worked well at overcoming this problem. Good luck with your own machine and thanks for the support.
Had the same concern about drilling the holes. Solved it by taking two suitable plates of aluminum, drilled the mounting holes for the scales in there and glued these to the machine with a Locktite high strength glue. Thoroughly removed any paint and dirt before and degreased the glue areas properly as well.
Good demo - you'll definitely want a stop / buffer to prevent the scale / reader bashing into the tailstock! I've done quite a few DRO installs on Other People's lathes and mills, found the supplied brackets a bit of a faff so made up mounting pads with cone-point grubscrews at the corners to jack them into alignment as a lot of lathe castings aren't precisely square/parallel (particularly the Chinese ones with 1/4" of filler...) A question for you - I'll have a bit less than 1/8" total clearance if I feed a standard-size scale above the taper attachment and below the cross-slide overhang (the only place it'll fit without the taper attachment getting in the way of the Z-axis bracketry), was thinking the slim scales would be better, - it looks like you used them, were they a lot more expensive, and where from? I can probably justify 1um scales on the Holbrook, worth the extra $20/scale!
Thanks, i'm glad you enjoyed it. I used a standard scale on Z and a slim scale on X. It's just what came with the kit to be honest. The slim scales are definitely a bit smaller though which would be good if your tight on clearance. Regarding costs it's probably best to have a chat with your suppliers they might be able to do you a bit of a deal if you are buying a full kit. Mine were only 5um scales but that's all I needed. Thanks for watching.
It's a battery powered cordless drill. Not sure what they are known as around the world but it's the one that has the 3 modes of operation. Normal drill, percussion drill for masonry and an adjustable clutch so it can be used as a screwdriver. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
A very nice job. I also have some right angled collet windy drills from my aircraft days. I used mine on my dro fit too. It looks like a good kit. Can you put a link to it on ebay please?
Thanks Carl glad you enjoyed it. The right angle drills are so good I used it a lot when I built Pippa as well. This is the kit I bought, I have no connection with the company. It went together quite easy. I'd say good for the price point. Can't comment on longevity as i'v only just put it in. Thanks again for the support. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-axis-digital-readout-DRO-for-lathe-complete-kit-UK-stocking/183150601752?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D9a9d81bb4ff04e8e898ee1a6c15d2066%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D224029740604%26itm%3D183150601752%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A830dc46f-e4c1-11ea-9686-ee8f00151d46%7Cparentrq%3A1826e64d1740a69d345c4c0ffffffe90%7Ciid%3A1
@@Handmadeextreme Thanks for that. I am looking to get the three axis version eventually, for my mill resto. I put a DRO on my Harrison lathe that I got from Ems International. I'm seriously thinking about changing the carriage scale from magnetic to glass, as the magnetic one is really jittery at times. Just throwing this out there, but something I'd find interesting would be some tests on your lathe, ie how parallel does it turn without tail support, is the tailstock alignment good, does it turn a cylindrical cut, that sort of thing. A lot of us out there have "old iron", me included (if you can class a 1984 Harrison M250 as old - and I guess you can) so I think it would be instructive to find out about these things.
No problem. I'll have a think about what you suggested I've been playing with that sort of thing recently (lathe levelling and the like) as I had to turn some long shafts recently. I've been thinking about making a new plinth for my lathe so that will all need doing again after that.We will have to see how things play out. Thanks for the idea, and the continued support. Good luck with the mill resto. 👍👍
@@Handmadeextreme Thanks for taking the time out to reply. I've been spending a bit of time lately fettling my lathe and I just wondered how other people's are.
I just found this (30.11.23) as I'm planning on fitting one to my Warco 280. Well done for fessing up to re-welding the bracket. And I thought it was only me who does that! 😄
I think I have that very kit. It came with a used machine I recently purchased. Nice video and, since no manual came with the kit, I have what I need to install this. Thank you! Very nicely illustrated and narrated as well.
Thanks for posting your install. I had mine pre-installed and getting to the back for the Z axis would have required a lot of messing about.
Having said that, I'm sure you will really like having the DRO. I can't imagine doing without mine.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it. They are so handy aren't they. Iv'e used them on various machines over the years but never had one on my home shop lathe until now. Got one on the Bridgeport as well which is super handy. Thanks for the support. 👍
I always wondered how a dro is installed! Great video!!
Thanks. I'm glad you found it useful. 👍
noice, you made me smile with the word (little} which you use many times, buying a bomatec tomorrow for my cazenueve 575x2000, did not realize that the scale moved on the cross slide. so learned something
Awesome, hope it all works out with your machine. Thanks for watching.
@@Handmadeextreme thank you everything is double difficult since I had a stroke 4 years ago but I plug on I was a yacht building take a look at my channel if you have the time
Thanks very helpful , I'll be doing the same job myself soon , there are some small sockets available that take taps so you can use a1/4 or 3/8 drive ratchet makes life a lot easier in those confined spaces .
Nice simple video thank you for taking the time to make it
very thoroughly explained. I'll do it on my lathe soon too
Thanks for the video, it was very helpful.
Well done, in a fine maner. Many thanks for this Video.
Nice video, but based on the DROs I've seen, the 4 threaded holes on the bracket were actually for grub screws, that can be used to securely hold the bracket flat on an unflat surface, acting as spacers where they need to. I think the holes for actually mounting it were the ones on either side, between the threaded holes?
It doesn't make much difference in your case as you mounted it on a flat surface anyway but all of the DROs I've seen have been mounted with grub screws to hold them straight even if they're on a curved surface.
Interesting, great comment. I did wonder if the larger holes in the centre were for mounting it but the kit didn't come with any hardware that diameter. What you say does make perfect sense though. Iv'e learnt something new here today. Thanks very much and i'm glad you enjoyed the video.
Great video. I happen to have a Harrison M300 and bought a DRO almost the same as that, so your video helped me enormously. I didn't need to turn the cross slide bracket upside down, and didn't quite understand why you needed to. I still need to install a tailstock stop and I need to figure out how to run the cabling so its out of the way. I was a bit concerned about swarf getting into the back of the Z axis scale, so mounted that on an aluminium plate first. Thanks for posting this!
You made that look very easy. I’m always nervous doing those kind of things.
Yeah iv'e never enjoyed drilling holes in machines it's always very nerve wracking. Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for the support.
Just use quality taps and take your time. It's not a hard job at all.
Best lathe DRO installation video. Cheers.
Great video, thanks. Still thinking about buying a DRO for my Colchester Student, but having to drill into it somehow scares me.
installing the dro screen is a personal thing ofcorse, but usaly it is fittet to the table on a stand, on this lathe mounting it on the gearbox is fine, but on bigger lathes you want it where you are doing the job, and the table follows to where the work is done. anyway nice video.
Another good video. Really liked the close up shots of your demonstration. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it.
Well done installation and demonstration video!
Good job, straight to the point.
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it.
Good demo :)
Brave man using a power drill to tap with!
It's always a bit sketchy.
Common practice in industry
08:15 "slow is precise..... precise is fast!"
Nice one mate.
You made that look pretty easy!
Buen trabajo, gracias por compartir tus conocimientos
Estoy automatizando una fresadora , que se podría implantar en un torno, en mi canal estoy subiendo la información
As a last resort read the instructions!
Outstanding job man!
Nice precise video on installing DRO. I just bought mine and this got me thinking about how the X axis mounting technique would be applied to my lathe. I have a Clausing 5914 which has a similar cross slide configuration, But I noticed on mine that there is very little real estate on the slide on top to drill into and compound rotation is very tight with maybe 1/8 inch clearance. So i have no other choice but to attach from the side of the cross slide. I am very concerned with where to drill as not to disturb or weaken the gib areas etc... Thanks for the video though it has allowed me to glean more ideas of how to mount the unit.
Glad it was helpful. You may find it is easier to attach to the front of the cross slide, just something to consider. I also was concerted about the gibs, the angle bracket seems to have worked well at overcoming this problem. Good luck with your own machine and thanks for the support.
Had the same concern about drilling the holes. Solved it by taking two suitable plates of aluminum, drilled the mounting holes for the scales in there and glued these to the machine with a Locktite high strength glue. Thoroughly removed any paint and dirt before and degreased the glue areas properly as well.
Lmao on welding the bracket back. Funny.
Great video I am planning on adding an ebay dro to my harrison m300 fairly soon. Keep us posted as to how it holds up.
Will do, Haven't used it that much yet to be honest. But so far so good.
Hi Great video, really clear and easy to follow. Hows the dro kit holding up 2 years on please? Just about to get the same kit . Thanks.
Do you have a link for the product?
Good demo - you'll definitely want a stop / buffer to prevent the scale / reader bashing into the tailstock!
I've done quite a few DRO installs on Other People's lathes and mills, found the supplied brackets a bit of a faff so made up mounting pads with cone-point grubscrews at the corners to jack them into alignment as a lot of lathe castings aren't precisely square/parallel (particularly the Chinese ones with 1/4" of filler...)
A question for you - I'll have a bit less than 1/8" total clearance if I feed a standard-size scale above the taper attachment and below the cross-slide overhang (the only place it'll fit without the taper attachment getting in the way of the Z-axis bracketry), was thinking the slim scales would be better, - it looks like you used them, were they a lot more expensive, and where from? I can probably justify 1um scales on the Holbrook, worth the extra $20/scale!
Thanks, i'm glad you enjoyed it.
I used a standard scale on Z and a slim scale on X. It's just what came with the kit to be honest. The slim scales are definitely a bit smaller though which would be good if your tight on clearance. Regarding costs it's probably best to have a chat with your suppliers they might be able to do you a bit of a deal if you are buying a full kit. Mine were only 5um scales but that's all I needed.
Thanks for watching.
Nice work mate.
Please tell me how to set the computer for Y axis. Because when the DRO show me 1mm, actually the cutter go 0.5mm.
I like this DRO system
Do you have a link where yo bought it or a model name or what ever ?
Hi,I'd like to know of This kind of Digital dro can read the "x" axis as a diameter or normal Linear positions?thanks
It can do both.
Good job where to buy and what model
did you check the calibration for accuracy ?
Have you got a link to the seller of this DRO? Was it posted in the UK or from China??
www.ebay.co.uk/usr/valuedro?_trksid=p2047675.l2559
Yes UK, they are in stocked just outside Derby
Wow that was easier than I thaught lol guess what I just ordered
wait, why did you have to cut the bracket? xD
Haha, Hi Colin. Let's just skim over that shall we 😂. Let's just say it's a good job I have the AC TIG set on hand... Thanks again for watching.
For those of us not in the U.K. what is a combi drill?
It's a battery powered cordless drill. Not sure what they are known as around the world but it's the one that has the 3 modes of operation. Normal drill, percussion drill for masonry and an adjustable clutch so it can be used as a screwdriver. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
@@Handmadeextreme In the U.S. that would be a drill/driver or a hammer drill. Thanks for the answer.
Awesome, thanks for that. 👍
A very nice job. I also have some right angled collet windy drills from my aircraft days. I used mine on my dro fit too. It looks like a good kit. Can you put a link to it on ebay please?
Thanks Carl glad you enjoyed it. The right angle drills are so good I used it a lot when I built Pippa as well. This is the kit I bought, I have no connection with the company. It went together quite easy. I'd say good for the price point. Can't comment on longevity as i'v only just put it in.
Thanks again for the support.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-axis-digital-readout-DRO-for-lathe-complete-kit-UK-stocking/183150601752?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D9a9d81bb4ff04e8e898ee1a6c15d2066%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D224029740604%26itm%3D183150601752%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A830dc46f-e4c1-11ea-9686-ee8f00151d46%7Cparentrq%3A1826e64d1740a69d345c4c0ffffffe90%7Ciid%3A1
@@Handmadeextreme Thanks for that. I am looking to get the three axis version eventually, for my mill resto. I put a DRO on my Harrison lathe that I got from Ems International. I'm seriously thinking about changing the carriage scale from magnetic to glass, as the magnetic one is really jittery at times. Just throwing this out there, but something I'd find interesting would be some tests on your lathe, ie how parallel does it turn without tail support, is the tailstock alignment good, does it turn a cylindrical cut, that sort of thing. A lot of us out there have "old iron", me included (if you can class a 1984 Harrison M250 as old - and I guess you can) so I think it would be instructive to find out about these things.
No problem. I'll have a think about what you suggested I've been playing with that sort of thing recently (lathe levelling and the like) as I had to turn some long shafts recently. I've been thinking about making a new plinth for my lathe so that will all need doing again after that.We will have to see how things play out. Thanks for the idea, and the continued support. Good luck with the mill resto. 👍👍
@@Handmadeextreme Thanks for taking the time out to reply. I've been spending a bit of time lately fettling my lathe and I just wondered how other people's are.
No problem, thanks for the support. 👍
Why buy a DRO direct from China ?
There are many others that are much better