I've said before in a previous post - engineering students probably pick up more from watching your clips than they do in months in the classroom. Trial, error, repeat - until it works. Good old fashioned on-the-bench prototyping. Love your stuff, keep up the good work.
Thanks! There's nothing like doing it for real in the shop - just thousands of variables that can get you. Half of it doesn't even make it into the videos either. I'll have to do a video on just some of the odd challenges that have come up that you'd never expect.
I still haven't mastered TIG on aluminum, it is a skill on my bucket list. Nice work on the top tank, learning new skills during a build definitely increases the challenge and timeline.
I'm a welder that has been doing only aluminum for the past four years and I have to say for beginner aluminum TIG, you did pretty alright. Moving around to balance the heat on your parts was a good practice. If you do more in the future, I'd suggest pulsing with your foot pedal to control your bead size and heat better. Just ease off the pedal as you step forward, then back onto it until you see the puddle wet properly before adding your filler dab. Works pretty well for me.
@@matus1976 I think a lot of folks get nervous about the heat management with aluminum. It does get pretty goopy if you go too hot, but if you can balance that with speed or pedal pulsing, it becomes noticeably nicer.
This is where 3D printers come in for rapid prototyping those kinds of pipes and some plastics can handle the temps and pressures once printed. Not to mention that once you have a working STL file you can also have them printed in a variety of metals from companies that do that.
Yeah that's a good point! I do have a 3D printer but ABS is too weak to even consider, but there are better filaments now that are almost as tough as aluminum. I'll keep that in mind. 3D printing metal parts is still pricey, but it may be the right way to go in some instances.
My boat has a San Juan cooling system that uses an all copper heat exchanger. Thare is a sacrificial Zinc inside the heat exchanger to reduce bimetal corrosion, it might be something to consider.
Ugh that's a whole internet rabbit hole you can go down lol. Both setups have advantages and disadvantages, ultimately I went with the series because it was simpler and required fewer hoses/connectors. But it may need an additional pump where parallel may not. I can easily switch it though. We'll see after some testing! Good catch!
FYI The CX500 was not "the first production liquid-cooled motorcycle" as you state at 0:43. Not by a long-shot. Suzuki's GT-750, the "water-buffalo", preceded the CX500 by 7 years.
Awesome progress!
I've said before in a previous post - engineering students probably pick up more from watching your clips than they do in months in the classroom. Trial, error, repeat - until it works. Good old fashioned on-the-bench prototyping.
Love your stuff, keep up the good work.
Thanks! There's nothing like doing it for real in the shop - just thousands of variables that can get you. Half of it doesn't even make it into the videos either. I'll have to do a video on just some of the odd challenges that have come up that you'd never expect.
I still haven't mastered TIG on aluminum, it is a skill on my bucket list. Nice work on the top tank, learning new skills during a build definitely increases the challenge and timeline.
Awesome
Its all coming together
I'm a welder that has been doing only aluminum for the past four years and I have to say for beginner aluminum TIG, you did pretty alright. Moving around to balance the heat on your parts was a good practice. If you do more in the future, I'd suggest pulsing with your foot pedal to control your bead size and heat better. Just ease off the pedal as you step forward, then back onto it until you see the puddle wet properly before adding your filler dab. Works pretty well for me.
Thanks! It's definitely a lot different than steel, there's a lot more 'fighting with the bead' and I have a ways to go. Appreciate the tips!
@@matus1976 I think a lot of folks get nervous about the heat management with aluminum. It does get pretty goopy if you go too hot, but if you can balance that with speed or pedal pulsing, it becomes noticeably nicer.
This is where 3D printers come in for rapid prototyping those kinds of pipes and some plastics can handle the temps and pressures once printed. Not to mention that once you have a working STL file you can also have them printed in a variety of metals from companies that do that.
Yeah that's a good point! I do have a 3D printer but ABS is too weak to even consider, but there are better filaments now that are almost as tough as aluminum. I'll keep that in mind. 3D printing metal parts is still pricey, but it may be the right way to go in some instances.
My boat has a San Juan cooling system that uses an all copper heat exchanger. Thare is a sacrificial Zinc inside the heat exchanger to reduce bimetal corrosion, it might be something to consider.
I'll definitely keep that in mind!
First!!
Hey! Wouldn't it be slightly better from a redundancy and efficiency standpoint to put the radiators in parallel instead of the way it's shown here?
Ugh that's a whole internet rabbit hole you can go down lol. Both setups have advantages and disadvantages, ultimately I went with the series because it was simpler and required fewer hoses/connectors. But it may need an additional pump where parallel may not. I can easily switch it though. We'll see after some testing! Good catch!
FYI The CX500 was not "the first production liquid-cooled motorcycle" as you state at 0:43. Not by a long-shot. Suzuki's GT-750, the "water-buffalo", preceded the CX500 by 7 years.
Ah, thanks for the clarification! Good to know. unfortunately I can't go back and correct it.