I really appreciate how thorough and honest you are in all your videos, but especially your reviews. You don't ramble, but I feel like you hit all the important aspects. As a DIYer, I appreciate the time and effort you put into your videos. Well done.
I purchased a saw stop about 2 1/2 years ago, the dust collection is excellent with minimal accumulation in the cabinet after months of use. Regarding the deflection of the fence, I think the main concern would be that there is no deflection up to the point where the material is actually cut by the blade. After that poin there shouldn't be lateral force applied to the fence.
Even the very best Biesmeyer style fences will deflect at the end which is just inherent in the design because it is only clamping at one end and the leverage is applied to the opposite end. Thank you for the review. I have been considering this saw for awhile. Where I am at in Southern Ontario Canada the Sawstop PCS is over $4000 which is too much for a hobby.
I, too , pulled the trigger on the Laguna Fusion F2 tablesaw in August 2021 thanks to your "Why I chose Laguna over SawStop Video". I concluded (almost) identical findings within days of startup. As a newbie woodworker the Laguna Fusion F2 is a quality build but the dust collection is disappointing...so much so that I upgraded to the Shark Guard and am researching an overarm solution that will fit my beginner skill set. Thanks to Travis and Shop Nation I see a path forward. Keep up the inspirational guidance.
I just received my F2 a week ago and I'm pretty pleased with it. I agree the dust collection is not as good as I had hoped, but compared to what I've been using (a craftsman from 1960) I'm ecstatic! I'm still tuning it in and getting setup the way I want it. But, right now I have absolutely no regrets with this purchase.
I see a couple comments on the fence deflection. A year or so ago i watched a video by Felder. The fence is suppose to flex as a safety function to help avoid kick back if the wood has any tension in it. So long as the fence does not deflect where the saw cuts the wood you are good. You should never be putting laterial forces on the wood after the saw anyways. Hope this helps ppl running away from european style fences. They do the same on jointers and any machine with these style fences.
I have to disagree here. No matter where the fence deflects it is going to impact where the saw blade is. If the fence flexes out, due to you applying to much lateral pressure, what happens when you ease up on that pressure 1/2 way through the cut? The fence is going to push the work piece into the blade. This is not good. Flex like this on saw fence is bad. The Jet version of this saw is a better option. It has the same internals as it is basically the same saw with a better fence system. There are versions with and without cast iron table extensions, but it does not come with the overhead DC (gimmick). Cast iron extensions are overkill on these types of saws IMO. They are important on big old heavy saws that had a lot of vibration. The weight helped dampen the vibration. These new saws have no vibration, so it is overkill. Though, some stamped extensions are garbage, so just make your own out of melamine, or plywood. I do agree that you should not be putting that much lateral force into the fence. A lot of woodworkers are guilty of this. However, when doing large sheet goods it is difficult not to. My Shop Fox W1837 came with a similar fence. I bought a set of 2x3" steel rails on amazon (open box) and got the Super Cool Tools fence. What a great upgrade.
@@alsmith7316 the guy is right. There is movement in the back. The riving knife behind the saw blade is a little wider than the blade itself. So the wood can't get stuck or pinched between the blade and the fence. It's a safety thing. And the magnet the poster of the video is putting behind the blade makes it very dangerous. Greetings, an engineer by trade. Woodworker by hobby.
I enjoyed the video breakdown of pros and cons. Great job and honest reflection in your presentation, I didn’t feel there was a conflict of interest with your full disclosure. Im a professional woodworker. I’ll be in the market for a new cabinet table saw this fall as will be selling my Delta cabinet saw and moving to a different state. That said, the Delta has practically same fence and I love it. It’s safer than the Biesemeyer type fences when the blade guard is properly in place. It’s one of the reasons I’m interested in the Laguna. I never had deflection issues with the Delta fence. I will reuse my Extractor overhead 4” rigid port over the saw blade, so better airflow over the blade and guard has larger footprint to capture more dust then the Laguna’s paltry ‘free’ dust port. Saw dust collection is my number 2 priority. That said, I’ll be looking at the Fusion 3 model, now $3K. Taiwan made is usually much better than China made, so not a problem for me.
So catching up here as it is 2023 almost 2024. I recently acquired a Fusion 1 that was being sold due to moving. I purchased it for $400. While this was an amazing deal as it was rarely used I got it home and found that the dust collection on it was clogged from thin pieces was lodged to the bottom of the dust collection. On clean the inside cabinet to find that the hose from the 4” was reduced to a 2 1/2”. When the blade is at the lowest in the cabinet it kinks or bends and the hose is flimsy. The length is necessary to raise up with the blade height. The bracket that holds the wrench and miter tool comes off and is a hole into the the cabinet that i sealed off with a small thin tin diamond plate piece cut to size and the screws will not accommodate much more that that to put the bracket back on. The panel the covers the motor also holds tons of dust and builds up. I covered the hole for the overhead hose to add more suction to the saw itself. Still a good saw! And had I not found this deal I would have bought one anyway. Great review! Keep it real and don’t forget to keep some mix and builds in your videos.
F1 owner here. Shop equipped with small dust collection system. The interior hose on the saw and the port restriction were removed. Still mediocre dust control. I finally removed the shroud from around the blade and collection is much improved. The shroud was redirecting dust out the top due to airflow not reaching the blade.
I just got my F2 in. Love it, except a few things. One I noticed is the blade tilt. I can only get it to 44.8 degrees. (checked against my little square digital gauge as well). I'm guessing that's something I will have to adjust inside... I just don't have the time right now to tweak things. I prefer they worked "out of the box". That over the arm thing is cumbersome and the "teeth" dig into the wood. I doubt I'll use it... so now i have to plug the smaller port down at the bottom by the 4" or I lose a bunch of suction. The tool caddy on the side of the saw is the same as from a few years ago, but they changed its placement and the mitre gauge slot is now blocked by the handwheel. You have to stick the mitre gauge in from behind now and it sticks out of the back, making it harder to have an outfeed table butt up to the saw unless you make a space for it. Still a way better saw than what I had.
I've used a few table/cabinet saws, and the only one that has a good solid fence that is always square, and you can remove and refit and the position cursor will spot on, is the DeWalt 7491-EX jobsite saw. It also has a 2000W motor compared the F2's 1300W motor. I actually have an F2 on its way to me, and chose it after a lot of research and comparison, plus I have used saws from Hafco (two), the DeWalt, a pressed steel topped one we use for ripping, and a rename brand called Compex that I have no idea about where it came from. The one I am waiting for (in NZ) comes with a 40T blade, which I am thinking too fine. I like that the F2 has the same size and spindle diameter as my old DeWalt, so I'll be putting a 24T blade on it. Is the blade insert made of wood, and can we make our own? I am asking if I can use my dado blades with it? Am I going to have trouble lifting it off of the pallet? It's heavier than my thicknesser/planner, and I got four big mates round to help me get that off its pallet. Do you ever find the motor running out of power with thick hardwoods?
Thank you for the video, my 30+ year old craftsman finally pooped out on me and I bought the fusion 2, after watching your vid, and love it, its so quiet my wife says she doesnt her it from her office while Im making dust. Keep those great vids coming.
I recently bought the Fusion F3. I had the same issue with the fence deflection until I squared the top to the blade, and then squared the fence. Now that everything is dead nuts square, the slight potential for deflection doesn’t impact accuracy of the saw. That said, if the saw isn’t properly tuned, the deflection of the fence will contribute to further inaccuracy of your cuts. For anyone that buys this saw, buy a gauge and tune your saw. It is well worth the small investment in time and additional money to get the best performance out of your saw.
I've had mine for about 3 months agree 100%. One thing I'll add is that my fence was dented upon arrival and they sent me a new one no questions asked. Only it was a different fence, no high/low detachable thing, it's all one piece and now my measuring line doesn't line up with the ruler on the table. It's off by a perfect 1.5" so it's not that bad. Idk if that's good or bad but thought I'd add it.
Thanks, nice video. I subscribed. Have been considering a new table saw and searched for Laguna Fusion as my local dealer has those and Record Power models in the catalogue.
That deflection looks pretty large. I just tried the same experiment on my Lowes Delta tablesaw, and it doesn’t seem to deflect that much. Three places that it could be moving… the front rail is flexing, the rail to fence joint has some play, or the fence is flexing. Any flexure in those beams (the rail or the fence) would indicate, to me, a serious error in design. I would tend to be more forgiving of the joint, but still… I’d be inclined to replace that fence with the Delta system, which is available with both rails online, assuming it fits. Overall, that still looks like a good option if the comparable Sawstop is out of someone’s range. Thanks for the review! Love the channel!
I’ve been watching an reading reviews (for weeks now)…pretty sure there is no one perfect saw! But, you make some strong points and comparisons to the SawStop. The only other saw that seems to get consistent great reviews are the Dewalts! I’m just a DIY’r setting up a shop in my garage that wants a good reliable (hopefully accurate tablesaw!). I had almost ordered the Shop Fox Hybred, but I think now I might just go with the Laguna F2. Little more money but seems an overall better machine! Thanks!
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ruclips.net/user/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
I can't speak to the F2 as I have an F3 recently purchased and if it's the same, they must have updated the miter bar as mine was fully adjustable and can be tuned very nicely. The gauge itself is fine. The fence on it is tiny as hell and just silly.
The deflection could be caused by too many parts that make up the fence "frame". By that I mean that the "head" that slides and locks on the rail is attached to the " fence holder" that the sliding fence attaches to. That's two different parts with a mechanical connection. (bolts, pins, rivets?). I would assume that the head locks tight and doesn't move. But there is an attaching point from the head to the long square frame that could be a point of movement. In the Delta Unifence the locking part on the rail and the frame that the sliding fence attaches too is cast as one piece. Mine is 25 plus years old and is rock solid. Also another advantage of the Unifence is that the sliding fence can be used on both sides of the blade. It's my understanding that the Laguna fence can only be used on the right side of the blade. Am I wrong about that? Other than that, the saw looks like an excellent machine for the price. I don't think I would let the fence keep me from buying one if I were in the market. Have you found the 1 3/4 horse motor to be enough?
Good review. Today I went to Rockler. Viewed the F1, F2, side by side. I am sold on the F2. It’s exactly the size and quality I want. Thank you for getting it to my attention via your review. Please maintain the no nonsense forum you have with your videos.
Thank you for providing your content. I have a Laguna PX12 planer and love it. I am a hobbyist woodworker and have a limited budget and the Laguna PX12 works well for me. Mine has a prototype cutter head and it works well with hard maple, mahogany and walnut, the wood species I usually work with.
Very much appreciate the review, Travis. I got my F2 over the summer and unfortunately due to work I have had very little time to run it through its paces. I actually discovered your initial video of the F2 vs. Sawstop after I had already ordered my F2, and I came to the same conclusion then that you did, that although the Sawstops are very nice, pricing it out put it at about double the cost of the F2. Now with this review I’m glad to see that I can look forward to getting more time in the shop with my F2 and getting it running properly (and hopefully mitigating some of the dust collection and fence issues). Also very much looking forward to building a fence caddy for it that a certain RUclipsr made a great video on…
Thanks for the review. I have an older shop Smith and an older craftsman saw. I have been looking to replace the craftsman for a newer saw. The craftsman I am going to turn in to a dedicated dado stack saw. That is due to the craftsman not have some of the current safety features. Thanks once more for your review.
Thanks for giving the overall dimensions. Something that is very difficult to find for nay saw on the internet. 1.5 car garage, even dedicated as a shop, can't do that width, and still allow me to be a mechanic too. Thank you. Thanks for all the videos, and the high quality content.
I looked at the fusions today. Measured them. The f1 is 31 1/2 in front to back. 59 in left to right with the rails being a big part of that length. The F2 is same front to back and left to right it’s 67 in. Once again the rails are a big part of that size.
It appears that the fence could benefit from more rigidity. I know they have a fusion F3, however it does not appear the fence is any more ridged. When I decide which cabinet saw to upgrade to I am hesitant to pick Laguna for this reason.
I got the sawstop for the insurance. But it really is well made with a beast of a fence (I upgraded it from stock version). I think Laguna would need wider wings to withstand the moment arm that's being created. And bracing for the fence itself. But as you said, at half the price (or more), some compromises had to be made.
The deflection on the fence is not really an issue. As stated below, in a very good comment, it's an aid to avoid kickback. I have never thought of that, but that is very well thought of. But also, don't forget, the second half of the fence is absolutely useless. As a rule of thumb you should set you fence length to be 45 degrees back from your saw blade beginning. But you could genuijust have the fence end at the exact point the blade begins and still have a good cut. On my 4HP SIP saw the fence locks front and back so I always without fail, make sure that the back of the fence is .5-1.0 mm further away from the blade than the front. Never had kick back and hopefully I never will. Doesn't seem to affect the dimensional accuracy either so I'll continue. Sorry for the long comment. Do you find the motor on that Laguna to be a bit underpowered?
I have just ordered a fusion 2 from Charnwood at a fantastic price. I was after a fusion 1, which is out of stock Uk wide, but have now bought the fusion 2. It seems Charnwood are offering the f2 at a brilliant price to those who are after the f1. There are lots of distributor issues with Laguna at the moment. Charnwood were the UK distributors but are no longer it seems. The baton has passed to Axminster who will only be selling direct so an immediate loss of competition and no date for resumption of sales. Not many f2 left on this deal so if you were interested in the f1 give them a call
Great review Travis. Maybe Laguna will work on some of the "not so good" things you talked about. Unless the saw is encased in a vacuum, I haven't seen any table saw that is great at dust collection. Just part of our hobby. Thanks for all your honesty.
Instead of comparing to a Sawstop, I would be interested in your thoughts on this compared to your old delta. I`ve got a delta 36-5100 with the cast wings and I am very happy with the performance of that saw for the money.
Great Job! I have been waiting on the review. Have dewalt contractor saw currently and will definitely be in the market for the laguna F2 in 6-9 months. As always great production! Thank You!
Watched your initial review and this one again. I bought the 14-12 bandsaw primarily to resaw lumber. I like everything except the 4" dust collection port is over-sized - that is, my 4" dust hose did not / will not connect to the saw. Solved the issue with a 4" dust hose connector and also a 4" rubber connector. Now my dust hose from the cyclone connects as it should [ plug and play. Not convinced that the $600 difference between the F1 and F2 is worth the money. The main difference is the additional 1/4 hp. Is the juice worth the squeeze? Love your honest reviews.
I see a lot of comments about fence deflection. All fences of this style, where the only lock is on the rail at the front of the table, is going to have some deflection. There is not much of a way around it for this type of fence. The fence that came on my old Delta locked at both ends of the fence. But it was replaced when I made the table wider to accommodate plywood sheets. I went with a Vega fence and system. Minimal deflection and the only time it's an issue is when someone is horsing around a sheet of plywood on it. But used properly it's straight as an arrow.
In regards to that 220v upgrade, it's a joke. I bought it shortly after getting the saw. It didn't have any instructions with it at the time and support couldn't point me to anything. The strain reliefs they used are impossible to remove. Support suggested I just take the old switch off and put the new one on. You still have to remove several unremovable strain reliefs and you still have to replace the power cord. At that point, you the only old part left is the cable from the switch to the motor. I was able to get my money back for it. I also asked support about adjusting the blade to the fence. You have to loosen some screws, but the images were not clear on where the screws were and I couldn't match it to anything on my saw. Support basically said to open it up and figure it out myself; that it would be obvious.
As a woodworker of over forty years, I bought the version of the F2 before this version. I needed a saw with a small footprint. That said, you are correct that the Laguna has some of the features that much more expensive saws have. My fence version has no deflection and I have consistently used my fence for many months and it and the measurement scale are still right on. Dust collection, I put a 4x6 oval hole in the cabinet and plugged a 4 inch hose to it. That solved the problem , and it one of the few Laguna does have trouble with.
My Sawstop professional 3hp 220v doesn't collect dust from the overhead very well either. It is better than nothing but far from perfect and it depends on what you are cutting. It is however very sturdy and easily adjustable and swings out of the way if necessary. The lower dust collection does work very well. Your tip on closing up the angle adjustment hole is a good one so thanks.
Fabulous as usual Travis. Thank You- I've been eager to see what you thought of it. I ended up going with Harvey due to ol' Mr. Nubs over there. Thank You and keep up the fine work.
Hey i've got the same saw and have recently come across a large issue that keeps cropping back up; curious if you or someone else has found a solution for this. My dust collection for the table saw KEEPS getting clogged. i admit i only have a 1hp dust collector but its the only tool connected at the time and this same collector performs amazingly on my bandsaw, planer, and jointer! I keep finding myself having to pull the motor cover and manually unclogging the hose from the port to the shroud.
The problem with the newer F2 is the 4" dust connection on the saw. If you look at the inside of it, it's divided betweena 2 1/2" opening that goes to the blade and a 1" opening that goes to the inside of the saw. I took a Dremel tool and opened the 1" opening. I made it look like a smiley face. That created a big enough opening that it increased the suction and prevents clogging. I also covered all the openings and got a 100% increase in suction. I'm using a 650 CFM dust collector with the saw.
The hose inside the cabinet reduces to like a 2 1/2” so when your saw is at the lowest inside the hose kinks up and slows the air flow. It needs to be long and flexible as the you raise the blade it stretches out. However the hose is very rigid and seems to begin to dry and become brittle leading to holes. That and longer thin pieces clog up the intake. Try using a zero clearance throat plate.
Very nice review. I'd love to see you check out the Harvey Alpha series, too. Stumpy Nubbs recently got one and their 2hp 36" rip capacity model is frequently on sale for $1,800 right now. Again, it's one that comes with all the features included. I built out a SS contractor saw on their website with the capacity, dust collection, cast iron wings and mobility and it was about a $1,600 difference. That's not even looking at their cabinet saw models.
Hello! Thanks for the video. I very much appreciate your opinion and review! I am really debating between the Laguna F2 and the Harvey table saw. Have you evaluated the Harvey and/or have an opinion? I'm very interested in your thoughts!
Thank you for the Review. I bought one because of your introduction to it after you bought yours. I love it. I bought mine after you bought yours and didgeridoo the Digital Readout. Huh.
I just picked up this tablesaw (thanks for the review as it helped in my decision) and wanted to replace the stock blade that came with it. I had a Freud sawblade on my Dewalt job site saw that was a thin kerf and I want to get a full kerf for this one, But none of the Freud sawblades meet the requirements stamped on the riving knife. The blades meet the kerf requirement, but not the plate size and I’m wondering why the plate size requirement? I always thought the kerf is what matters. I sent Laguna an email, but they replied saying they cannot advise on third-party blades due to liabilities.
Thank you for all your great content. You organize the information and present it in a way that makes it very easy to get all of the information. Sorry, you might want to check your sponsor link in the description, you added an extra "e".
Hi Travis. For the dust collection issues, would using thick magnet sheet (used for contractor vehicle signage) be an easy way to plug the arbor tilt hole? "Peel - Tilt - Seal"?
Agree with everything here. I have the exact same saw only an older version I picked up off of Craigslist for 700 bucks, which was a steal since the guy never used it and look brand new. The dust collection does suck, and it does accumulate in the cabinet, like you I have not made those modifications to it yet, simply cause I work so much, but it is in the plans. Me personally any large sheet goods gets cut up by the Makita track saw, for me in my small space it’s safer & the accuracy of the track saw is amazing. So that’s not too much of an issue with the fence, a lot of what I do is small work on the table saw. Being about 12 years old or so it will seriously not only pass a nickel test, it will pass a dime test, and both tests were conducted cutting a 2” piece of Indian rose wood. I was actually amazed by this. It has actually been an extremely wonderful Saw to use & have in my garage & I would recommend it too!
You should buy a vega fence they will fit almost all table saws they are a little bit pricey but after all my years in biz they are without any doubt the best
Appreciate the review both good and bad. Currently editing my initial review of my Delta and nodded along when you were talking dust collection on table saws.
I've only had mine a short time but I like the fence. I does deflect if you force it but there isn't normally pressure past the blade. The fence does not misalign or move during use. It moves and adjusts easily. My main issue is with the dust collection. I would appreciate any ideas from someone that has used the saw. My old Craftsman contractor saw with a DIY system collected dust better. The onboard tool holders are nice but are nothing special.
@shopnation use your miter saw dust collection fix a lot, the cabinet issue here is definitely a factor of the dust collection hookup, are you going to make a new one to fix cabinet build up in the laguna?
Thanks a lot for the 1yr review and your no-nonsense approach is very refreshing. The same F2 was on my final-two list when I was looking at upgrading from my almost 5 yrs old Ridgid R4512. Your comparison with the SawStop was IMHO spot on. I went with my other option, the Harvey HWL110LC-36P. I won't go through a detailed comparison, that would be hijacking this thread. Just to say the Harvey addresses a good deal of your like-not-so-much points. Stay safe and think about all the hot-dogs you're saving by not having gone to the SawStop side of the Force ;-) If interested we could do that comparison remotely? NB my garage is WAAAYY messier than yours.
@@kp2four Between those 2, definitely the Harvey. Between the F3 and the same Harvey, that would be a much more nuanced decision. Again, I don't want to highjack here, so I'll leave it at that.
I've had the F2 since April and agree with your review, good and bad. I removed the overhead hose and connected it direct into my overhead mainline which helped a lot. You mention you've had yours for a year but I didn't get the dual view scale lens nor the angle DRO on mine. Was that an upgrade they included in your promo deal?
Hi Travis, can you please explain how if you've had this saw for a year and your original video the saw didn't have the digital readout and this video it shows a saw which has the digital readout? I know you said you got a discount, but did you get a discount on 2 saws and get rid of the original one or did you somehow get one of them free?
Ok, looks like a good professional cabinet table saw. You probably should have gown with a Harvey. That's what I have and Am VERY Happy with this device. 3 things you dislike about your Laguna, Harvey kills. Worthy of a Change Home Improvements
Great review Travis. I bought the F3 and have been really happy with everything EXCEPT the dust collection. In short, it's horrible, however, I've never found a table saw that has really good collection. All in all, they're great saws and would definitely recommend to anyone looking into a table saw purchase that they look hard at this series of saws.
You can put a 3mm strip of something at the end of the cast iron table and wheel at the end of the fence will bump into it making it solid and wont move a bit. I also noticed the same problem with the fence and this is so simple that Laguna should actually do this instead of me.
Purchased my f2 because of your original video. Would love to know if you’re going to sell a product that helps with the suction of the dust collector (cover for the open space by the front wheel)
Actually a question. Did you switch to 220 and did it really make it run better? Do you have a link for the magnet for deflection or consider any other method?
Hi, Travis. I’m almost ready to buy a Laguna for my first upgraded table saw. Any thoughts on what you get for the extra $ from the F2 vsF1. Rockler has a good deal on an F1 in town but I don’t know whether I should upgrade to F2. Any thoughts you or others viewers have would be very helpful, thanks.
About that fence. Just check the screws or bolts that attach it to the locking mechanism just to eliminate the possibility of one or two being slight loose. Things are never perfect.
What happened to the Delta saw? Why did you change? I ask because I've been woodworking for about 8 months now, I have a 8 1/4 dewalt construction saw. I want to upgrade but not quite ready to pull the trigger on 2000.00 saw. I watched your delta video and was thinking that would be a good saw to upgrade to. Am I wrong on that thought?
Fair and honest review. My only nitpick is that this is not in the same league as a sawstop (even totally ignoring the safety system). This is in the same league as harvey, king canada, grizzly etc.
@@ShopNation 1- sawstop is 400lbs, that significantly more metal 2- fence has no deflection 3- look through the sawstop manual online in the adjustments section, sawstop has many more adjustments and much easier to adjust tricky things like tilt axis alignment. Sawstop does it with threaded adjusters. F2 has no provisions for it, you would have to shim the table until it’s right and accept factory tolerances on what can’t be adjusted. 4- dust collection works 5- cast iron trunions vs alu 6- one piece steel fence rails vs 2piece alu Edit: more simply: they are both in the same league of saws, ie they are both true cabinet saws. But within the cabinet saw league, they are not directly comparable, in quality or price.
@homer009x I'd put the Harvey above the F2 (I own a Harvey). Weight is 411lbs. Everything to switch to 220V is provided. Fence stays true in any situation with massive front and rear steel rails. Cast iron trunions. Dust collection is great, not perfect but pretty close. Single wrench blade change with push button to block the arbor, said wrench is long and quite thick (not a cheap piece of stamped steel). Single knob to secure the riving knife. 2 riving knifes included, one is on the blade guard. Top class miter gauge included. Throat plates are thick aluminum pieces with no deflection whatsoever and that open notch in the back. Just sayin'...
@@wildpat03 I agree with much of what you’re saying. But harvey and laguna are in the same ‘league’. The king canada is very similar to the harvey and like you, I preferred it over the laguna. Although the king has a stamped steel throat plate which is not great. The laguna does have one wrench blade change too, not even sawstop has that.
Would like to see you build an extension table for this saw, so I can copy your design and execution of course. I have an older version of the F1. Thanks.
I understand that the back of the fence does not influence the accuracy of the cut. By the time the board reaches the ricing knife it is already cut. If the cut board pushes on the back of the fence you have other problems. It is almost impossible to flex the back of the fence if your bland and fence are in alignment. Does the fence flex at the blade? If so that can cause issues for you.
I have used the laguna table saw, and I think they cheaped out on the front rail of the fence, as it’s made out of aluminum, not steel. Even the $650 delta saw has a steel front rail! Their saws are pretty damn good, but aluminum is a very soft metal, and having the fence clamp down on that is, well, poorly designed… I now use a sawstop, and that fence has no deflection at all, as the front bar is steel. I haven’t seen any other cabinet saw besides the laguna use an aluminum fence bar. Usually jobsite saws have aluminum bars… I am disappointed about this, and would not classify this to be on par with a sawstop, grizzly, or jet, as this was a major part they really skimped out on the quality. I upgraded my old one a while ago with a delta fence, and it’s so much better! But you gave honest opinions, and actually gave useful information about the saw. This was a really good video!
Does the fence actually stay true when setting up for a measurement? My current table saw when I set my fence to say 8 inches, the place closest to the fence handle will be 8 inches from the blade but the far end will be 1/16th of an inch off or so. So I have to constantly measure the front and back of my blade to the fence and keep taping the fence over and over again to make sure I'm perfectly parallel. I'm wanting to upgrade my saw and love the SawStop but the Laguna F2 seems perfect for my needs, with a lower price tag. I just don't want to have another fence with this issue
Hi thanks for the review. So I bought my fusion 2 right after seeing your first video of getting yours. I pulled the ripcord and bought exact saw as the ONE YOU HAD ON YOUR ORIGINAL video. And in the flashback part of this video you can see that you ORIGINALLY did not have the degree readout on front of saw. Now suddenly you do. So how did you get that feature???? It sure is t in the original video and I never got it on my saw????? Why did you seem to want to hide that fact ?? And if you got it how do I get it ???
I was coming here to make that same comment. I bought my saw shortly after watching that first video. Mine didn't come with the tilt readout or the high low marking on the fence like in this video. I agree with all the other negatives. After watching that first video and doing some research, I canceled an order I had for a Grizzly to get this. Worst decision I have ever made. :( I'm thinking of selling this and getting a SawStop.
Since there was an agreement with laguna for his review, I could only imagine any company with half a brain would be sure their latest and greatest models are featured. I can only assume laguna exchanged it for him, perks of the status.
I also have the F2, however mine must be slightly older than yours because it does not have the digital gauge, other than that it appears identical. I had a ton of issues with the "euro" fence, it was basically twisted it was out of square to the left at the front, and out of square to the right at the back and let to some very poor cuts. They ended up sending me an older, standard style fence to replace it (free of charge), just unfortunate because now the tape measure doesnt line up anymore lol
I really appreciate your review...this saw is one of three I'm looking at buying in the near future and your information helped a great deal. As a side note, I'm interested in where you bought (or made?) that fence caddy? I would love to get one! Thanks
I really appreciate how thorough and honest you are in all your videos, but especially your reviews. You don't ramble, but I feel like you hit all the important aspects. As a DIYer, I appreciate the time and effort you put into your videos. Well done.
I Agree
Super helpful video, appreciate the no-BS, straight up, authentic way you present your opinion and information.
I purchased a saw stop about 2 1/2 years ago, the dust collection is excellent with minimal accumulation in the cabinet after months of use.
Regarding the deflection of the fence, I think the main concern would be that there is no deflection up to the point where the material is actually cut by the blade. After that poin there shouldn't be lateral force applied to the fence.
That's what I was thinking... 👍
Even the very best Biesmeyer style fences will deflect at the end which is just inherent in the design because it is only clamping at one end and the leverage is applied to the opposite end. Thank you for the review. I have been considering this saw for awhile. Where I am at in Southern Ontario Canada the Sawstop PCS is over $4000 which is too much for a hobby.
I, too , pulled the trigger on the Laguna Fusion F2 tablesaw in August 2021 thanks to your "Why I chose Laguna over SawStop Video". I concluded (almost) identical findings within days of startup. As a newbie woodworker the Laguna Fusion F2 is a quality build but the dust collection is disappointing...so much so that I upgraded to the Shark Guard and am researching an overarm solution that will fit my beginner skill set. Thanks to Travis and Shop Nation I see a path forward. Keep up the inspirational guidance.
I just received my F2 a week ago and I'm pretty pleased with it. I agree the dust collection is not as good as I had hoped, but compared to what I've been using (a craftsman from 1960) I'm ecstatic! I'm still tuning it in and getting setup the way I want it. But, right now I have absolutely no regrets with this purchase.
I see a couple comments on the fence deflection. A year or so ago i watched a video by Felder. The fence is suppose to flex as a safety function to help avoid kick back if the wood has any tension in it. So long as the fence does not deflect where the saw cuts the wood you are good.
You should never be putting laterial forces on the wood after the saw anyways.
Hope this helps ppl running away from european style fences. They do the same on jointers and any machine with these style fences.
I have to disagree here. No matter where the fence deflects it is going to impact where the saw blade is. If the fence flexes out, due to you applying to much lateral pressure, what happens when you ease up on that pressure 1/2 way through the cut? The fence is going to push the work piece into the blade. This is not good. Flex like this on saw fence is bad. The Jet version of this saw is a better option. It has the same internals as it is basically the same saw with a better fence system. There are versions with and without cast iron table extensions, but it does not come with the overhead DC (gimmick). Cast iron extensions are overkill on these types of saws IMO. They are important on big old heavy saws that had a lot of vibration. The weight helped dampen the vibration. These new saws have no vibration, so it is overkill. Though, some stamped extensions are garbage, so just make your own out of melamine, or plywood.
I do agree that you should not be putting that much lateral force into the fence. A lot of woodworkers are guilty of this. However, when doing large sheet goods it is difficult not to. My Shop Fox W1837 came with a similar fence. I bought a set of 2x3" steel rails on amazon (open box) and got the Super Cool Tools fence. What a great upgrade.
@@alsmith7316 the guy is right. There is movement in the back. The riving knife behind the saw blade is a little wider than the blade itself. So the wood can't get stuck or pinched between the blade and the fence. It's a safety thing. And the magnet the poster of the video is putting behind the blade makes it very dangerous. Greetings, an engineer by trade. Woodworker by hobby.
That fence deflection is a show stopper for me. My Dewalt job site saw with its rack n pinion fence is solid when locked.
I love your reviews and your methodology behind when you do them.
Thanks, the Fusion line is for sure on my list for consideration.
I enjoyed the video breakdown of pros and cons. Great job and honest reflection in your presentation, I didn’t feel there was a conflict of interest with your full disclosure. Im a professional woodworker. I’ll be in the market for a new cabinet table saw this fall as will be selling my Delta cabinet saw and moving to a different state. That said, the Delta has practically same fence and I love it. It’s safer than the Biesemeyer type fences when the blade guard is properly in place. It’s one of the reasons I’m interested in the Laguna. I never had deflection issues with the Delta fence. I will reuse my Extractor overhead 4” rigid port over the saw blade, so better airflow over the blade and guard has larger footprint to capture more dust then the Laguna’s paltry ‘free’ dust port. Saw dust collection is my number 2 priority. That said, I’ll be looking at the Fusion 3 model, now $3K. Taiwan made is usually much better than China made, so not a problem for me.
So catching up here as it is 2023 almost 2024. I recently acquired a Fusion 1 that was being sold due to moving. I purchased it for $400. While this was an amazing deal as it was rarely used I got it home and found that the dust collection on it was clogged from thin pieces was lodged to the bottom of the dust collection. On clean the inside cabinet to find that the hose from the 4” was reduced to a 2 1/2”. When the blade is at the lowest in the cabinet it kinks or bends and the hose is flimsy. The length is necessary to raise up with the blade height. The bracket that holds the wrench and miter tool comes off and is a hole into the the cabinet that i sealed off with a small thin tin diamond plate piece cut to size and the screws will not accommodate much more that that to put the bracket back on. The panel the covers the motor also holds tons of dust and builds up. I covered the hole for the overhead hose to add more suction to the saw itself. Still a good saw! And had I not found this deal I would have bought one anyway. Great review! Keep it real and don’t forget to keep some mix and builds in your videos.
F1 owner here. Shop equipped with small dust collection system. The interior hose on the saw and the port restriction were removed. Still mediocre dust control. I finally removed the shroud from around the blade and collection is much improved. The shroud was redirecting dust out the top due to airflow not reaching the blade.
I just got my F2 in. Love it, except a few things. One I noticed is the blade tilt. I can only get it to 44.8 degrees. (checked against my little square digital gauge as well). I'm guessing that's something I will have to adjust inside... I just don't have the time right now to tweak things. I prefer they worked "out of the box". That over the arm thing is cumbersome and the "teeth" dig into the wood. I doubt I'll use it... so now i have to plug the smaller port down at the bottom by the 4" or I lose a bunch of suction. The tool caddy on the side of the saw is the same as from a few years ago, but they changed its placement and the mitre gauge slot is now blocked by the handwheel. You have to stick the mitre gauge in from behind now and it sticks out of the back, making it harder to have an outfeed table butt up to the saw unless you make a space for it. Still a way better saw than what I had.
I've used a few table/cabinet saws, and the only one that has a good solid fence that is always square, and you can remove and refit and the position cursor will spot on, is the DeWalt 7491-EX jobsite saw. It also has a 2000W motor compared the F2's 1300W motor. I actually have an F2 on its way to me, and chose it after a lot of research and comparison, plus I have used saws from Hafco (two), the DeWalt, a pressed steel topped one we use for ripping, and a rename brand called Compex that I have no idea about where it came from. The one I am waiting for (in NZ) comes with a 40T blade, which I am thinking too fine. I like that the F2 has the same size and spindle diameter as my old DeWalt, so I'll be putting a 24T blade on it.
Is the blade insert made of wood, and can we make our own? I am asking if I can use my dado blades with it? Am I going to have trouble lifting it off of the pallet? It's heavier than my thicknesser/planner, and I got four big mates round to help me get that off its pallet. Do you ever find the motor running out of power with thick hardwoods?
'Preciate the honesty and transparency in your reviews, Travis. Great info. Thanks for what you do!
I have a cabinet shop and the F2 has filled my needs for 2 years now. I did upgrade the fence rails to 52” tho
Thank you for the video, my 30+ year old craftsman finally pooped out on me and I bought the fusion 2, after watching your vid, and love it, its so quiet my wife says she doesnt her it from her office while Im making dust. Keep those great vids coming.
I recently bought the Fusion F3. I had the same issue with the fence deflection until I squared the top to the blade, and then squared the fence. Now that everything is dead nuts square, the slight potential for deflection doesn’t impact accuracy of the saw. That said, if the saw isn’t properly tuned, the deflection of the fence will contribute to further inaccuracy of your cuts. For anyone that buys this saw, buy a gauge and tune your saw. It is well worth the small investment in time and additional money to get the best performance out of your saw.
Great points, yes I've found the same thing. When the saw is calibrated square (table, blade, fence) the deflection doesn't actually impact anything.
What gauge did you buy if you don’t mind me asking sir?
Thanks a lot. I have a Fusion F1 (no room in my little shop for the F2!), and I have about the same opinion.... and I love it!
I've had mine for about 3 months agree 100%. One thing I'll add is that my fence was dented upon arrival and they sent me a new one no questions asked. Only it was a different fence, no high/low detachable thing, it's all one piece and now my measuring line doesn't line up with the ruler on the table. It's off by a perfect 1.5" so it's not that bad. Idk if that's good or bad but thought I'd add it.
Thanks, nice video. I subscribed. Have been considering a new table saw and searched for Laguna Fusion as my local dealer has those and Record Power models in the catalogue.
That deflection looks pretty large. I just tried the same experiment on my Lowes Delta tablesaw, and it doesn’t seem to deflect that much. Three places that it could be moving… the front rail is flexing, the rail to fence joint has some play, or the fence is flexing. Any flexure in those beams (the rail or the fence) would indicate, to me, a serious error in design. I would tend to be more forgiving of the joint, but still… I’d be inclined to replace that fence with the Delta system, which is available with both rails online, assuming it fits. Overall, that still looks like a good option if the comparable Sawstop is out of someone’s range. Thanks for the review! Love the channel!
Thanks for the review. Ive been wanting to buy a new saw and been looking into this one.
I’ve been watching an reading reviews (for weeks now)…pretty sure there is no one perfect saw! But, you make some strong points and comparisons to the SawStop. The only other saw that seems to get consistent great reviews are the Dewalts! I’m just a DIY’r setting up a shop in my garage that wants a good reliable (hopefully accurate tablesaw!). I had almost ordered the Shop Fox Hybred, but I think now I might just go with the Laguna F2. Little more money but seems an overall better machine! Thanks!
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ruclips.net/user/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
I can't speak to the F2 as I have an F3 recently purchased and if it's the same, they must have updated the miter bar as mine was fully adjustable and can be tuned very nicely. The gauge itself is fine. The fence on it is tiny as hell and just silly.
The deflection could be caused by too many parts that make up the fence "frame". By that I mean that the "head" that slides and locks on the rail is attached to the " fence holder" that the sliding fence attaches to. That's two different parts with a mechanical connection. (bolts, pins, rivets?). I would assume that the head locks tight and doesn't move. But there is an attaching point from the head to the long square frame that could be a point of movement. In the Delta Unifence the locking part on the rail and the frame that the sliding fence attaches too is cast as one piece. Mine is 25 plus years old and is rock solid. Also another advantage of the Unifence is that the sliding fence can be used on both sides of the blade. It's my understanding that the Laguna fence can only be used on the right side of the blade. Am I wrong about that? Other than that, the saw looks like an excellent machine for the price. I don't think I would let the fence keep me from buying one if I were in the market. Have you found the 1 3/4 horse motor to be enough?
Good review. Today I went to Rockler. Viewed the F1, F2, side by side. I am sold on the F2. It’s exactly the size and quality I want. Thank you for getting it to my attention via your review. Please maintain the no nonsense forum you have with your videos.
Thank you for providing your content. I have a Laguna PX12 planer and love it. I am a hobbyist woodworker and have a limited budget and the Laguna PX12 works well for me. Mine has a prototype cutter head and it works well with hard maple, mahogany and walnut, the wood species I usually work with.
Very much appreciate the review, Travis. I got my F2 over the summer and unfortunately due to work I have had very little time to run it through its paces. I actually discovered your initial video of the F2 vs. Sawstop after I had already ordered my F2, and I came to the same conclusion then that you did, that although the Sawstops are very nice, pricing it out put it at about double the cost of the F2.
Now with this review I’m glad to see that I can look forward to getting more time in the shop with my F2 and getting it running properly (and hopefully mitigating some of the dust collection and fence issues). Also very much looking forward to building a fence caddy for it that a certain RUclipsr made a great video on…
Excellent review. Thanks for showing the amount of flex on the fence. Looks like a great overall product but that's a deal breaker for me.
Thanks for the review. I have an older shop Smith and an older craftsman saw. I have been looking to replace the craftsman for a newer saw. The craftsman I am going to turn in to a dedicated dado stack saw. That is due to the craftsman not have some of the current safety features. Thanks once more for your review.
Thanks for giving the overall dimensions. Something that is very difficult to find for nay saw on the internet. 1.5 car garage, even dedicated as a shop, can't do that width, and still allow me to be a mechanic too. Thank you. Thanks for all the videos, and the high quality content.
I looked at the fusions today. Measured them. The f1 is 31 1/2 in front to back. 59 in left to right with the rails being a big part of that length. The F2 is same front to back and left to right it’s 67 in. Once again the rails are a big part of that size.
It appears that the fence could benefit from more rigidity. I know they have a fusion F3, however it does not appear the fence is any more ridged. When I decide which cabinet saw to upgrade to I am hesitant to pick Laguna for this reason.
I agree with your review, I love my F2, but the dust collection is my biggest issue.
thanks for the review i have been considering this saw thanks
I got the sawstop for the insurance. But it really is well made with a beast of a fence (I upgraded it from stock version). I think Laguna would need wider wings to withstand the moment arm that's being created. And bracing for the fence itself. But as you said, at half the price (or more), some compromises had to be made.
The deflection on the fence is not really an issue.
As stated below, in a very good comment, it's an aid to avoid kickback. I have never thought of that, but that is very well thought of.
But also, don't forget, the second half of the fence is absolutely useless. As a rule of thumb you should set you fence length to be 45 degrees back from your saw blade beginning. But you could genuijust have the fence end at the exact point the blade begins and still have a good cut.
On my 4HP SIP saw the fence locks front and back so I always without fail, make sure that the back of the fence is .5-1.0 mm further away from the blade than the front. Never had kick back and hopefully I never will. Doesn't seem to affect the dimensional accuracy either so I'll continue.
Sorry for the long comment. Do you find the motor on that Laguna to be a bit underpowered?
Really informative vid. Especially like the fact that you shared some not so good things about the saw.
I have just ordered a fusion 2 from Charnwood at a fantastic price. I was after a fusion 1, which is out of stock Uk wide, but have now bought the fusion 2. It seems Charnwood are offering the f2 at a brilliant price to those who are after the f1. There are lots of distributor issues with Laguna at the moment. Charnwood were the UK distributors but are no longer it seems. The baton has passed to Axminster who will only be selling direct so an immediate loss of competition and no date for resumption of sales. Not many f2 left on this deal so if you were interested in the f1 give them a call
Great review Travis. Maybe Laguna will work on some of the "not so good" things you talked about. Unless the saw is encased in a vacuum, I haven't seen any table saw that is great at dust collection. Just part of our hobby. Thanks for all your honesty.
Instead of comparing to a Sawstop, I would be interested in your thoughts on this compared to your old delta. I`ve got a delta 36-5100 with the cast wings and I am very happy with the performance of that saw for the money.
Great Job! I have been waiting on the review. Have dewalt contractor saw currently and will definitely be in the market for the laguna F2 in 6-9 months. As always great production! Thank You!
Awesome review, Travis! That fence deflection is a bit of a bummer
That flexing fence was something I spotted right away and it's pretty much the reason why I decided to spend more and get a sawstop.
Watched your initial review and this one again. I bought the 14-12 bandsaw primarily to resaw lumber. I like everything except the 4" dust collection port is over-sized - that is, my 4" dust hose did not / will not connect to the saw. Solved the issue with a 4" dust hose connector and also a 4" rubber connector. Now my dust hose from the cyclone connects as it should [ plug and play. Not convinced that the $600 difference between the F1 and F2 is worth the money. The main difference is the additional 1/4 hp. Is the juice worth the squeeze?
Love your honest reviews.
Thanks man! I was holding my breath, hoping you would recommend, mine gets here sunday.. I'll take the hell yes!
I see a lot of comments about fence deflection. All fences of this style, where the only lock is on the rail at the front of the table, is going to have some deflection. There is not much of a way around it for this type of fence. The fence that came on my old Delta locked at both ends of the fence. But it was replaced when I made the table wider to accommodate plywood sheets. I went with a Vega fence and system. Minimal deflection and the only time it's an issue is when someone is horsing around a sheet of plywood on it. But used properly it's straight as an arrow.
In regards to that 220v upgrade, it's a joke. I bought it shortly after getting the saw. It didn't have any instructions with it at the time and support couldn't point me to anything. The strain reliefs they used are impossible to remove. Support suggested I just take the old switch off and put the new one on. You still have to remove several unremovable strain reliefs and you still have to replace the power cord. At that point, you the only old part left is the cable from the switch to the motor. I was able to get my money back for it.
I also asked support about adjusting the blade to the fence. You have to loosen some screws, but the images were not clear on where the screws were and I couldn't match it to anything on my saw. Support basically said to open it up and figure it out myself; that it would be obvious.
As a woodworker of over forty years, I bought the version of the F2 before this version. I needed a saw with a small footprint. That said, you are correct that the Laguna has some of the features that much more expensive saws have. My fence version has no deflection and I have consistently used my fence for many months and it and the measurement scale are still right on. Dust collection, I put a 4x6 oval hole in the cabinet and plugged a 4 inch hose to it. That solved the problem , and it one of the few Laguna does have trouble with.
My Sawstop professional 3hp 220v doesn't collect dust from the overhead very well either. It is better than nothing but far from perfect and it depends on what you are cutting. It is however very sturdy and easily adjustable and swings out of the way if necessary. The lower dust collection does work very well. Your tip on closing up the angle adjustment hole is a good one so thanks.
I hope that if/when you remake your overhead dust collection, you make that a video!!
Fabulous as usual Travis. Thank You- I've been eager to see what you thought of it. I ended up going with Harvey due to ol' Mr. Nubs over there. Thank You and keep up the fine work.
Hey i've got the same saw and have recently come across a large issue that keeps cropping back up; curious if you or someone else has found a solution for this. My dust collection for the table saw KEEPS getting clogged. i admit i only have a 1hp dust collector but its the only tool connected at the time and this same collector performs amazingly on my bandsaw, planer, and jointer! I keep finding myself having to pull the motor cover and manually unclogging the hose from the port to the shroud.
The problem with the newer F2 is the 4" dust connection on the saw. If you look at the inside of it, it's divided betweena 2 1/2" opening that goes to the blade and a 1" opening that goes to the inside of the saw. I took a Dremel tool and opened the 1" opening. I made it look like a smiley face. That created a big enough opening that it increased the suction and prevents clogging. I also covered all the openings and got a 100% increase in suction. I'm using a 650 CFM dust collector with the saw.
The hose inside the cabinet reduces to like a 2 1/2” so when your saw is at the lowest inside the hose kinks up and slows the air flow. It needs to be long and flexible as the you raise the blade it stretches out. However the hose is very rigid and seems to begin to dry and become brittle leading to holes. That and longer thin pieces clog up the intake. Try using a zero clearance throat plate.
Thanks for this. Your other video was one of the reasons I plan to buy an F2 in the near future.
Very nice review. I'd love to see you check out the Harvey Alpha series, too. Stumpy Nubbs recently got one and their 2hp 36" rip capacity model is frequently on sale for $1,800 right now. Again, it's one that comes with all the features included. I built out a SS contractor saw on their website with the capacity, dust collection, cast iron wings and mobility and it was about a $1,600 difference. That's not even looking at their cabinet saw models.
I bought an F2 AND a Laguna Revo 1216 Lathe for about the same price as a SawStop... I'm very happy.
Hello! Thanks for the video. I very much appreciate your opinion and review! I am really debating between the Laguna F2 and the Harvey table saw. Have you evaluated the Harvey and/or have an opinion? I'm very interested in your thoughts!
Thank you for the Review. I bought one because of your introduction to it after you bought yours. I love it. I bought mine after you bought yours and didgeridoo the Digital Readout. Huh.
Super helpful since I’m in the market for this model. Thank you.
My F2 is trapped in its crate awaiting setup...but the shop is still under construction. Thanks for all the info...it's very helpful.
I'm shook that it's been 1yr already 🤯. Seems like only a few weeks ago I saw your 'not a $3k SawStop table saw video'.
I just picked up this tablesaw (thanks for the review as it helped in my decision) and wanted to replace the stock blade that came with it. I had a Freud sawblade on my Dewalt job site saw that was a thin kerf and I want to get a full kerf for this one, But none of the Freud sawblades meet the requirements stamped on the riving knife. The blades meet the kerf requirement, but not the plate size and I’m wondering why the plate size requirement? I always thought the kerf is what matters. I sent Laguna an email, but they replied saying they cannot advise on third-party blades due to liabilities.
Im looking at this one and the Harvey Alpha Series. I cant decide which one. They both have good qualities that go back and forth
Thank you for all your great content. You organize the information and present it in a way that makes it very easy to get all of the information.
Sorry, you might want to check your sponsor link in the description, you added an extra "e".
Fixed! Thank you for pointing that out
Great job! thank you for being so honest, from Laguna Beach CA
Hi Travis. For the dust collection issues, would using thick magnet sheet (used for contractor vehicle signage) be an easy way to plug the arbor tilt hole? "Peel - Tilt - Seal"?
Thats a great idea
Agree with everything here. I have the exact same saw only an older version I picked up off of Craigslist for 700 bucks, which was a steal since the guy never used it and look brand new. The dust collection does suck, and it does accumulate in the cabinet, like you I have not made those modifications to it yet, simply cause I work so much, but it is in the plans. Me personally any large sheet goods gets cut up by the Makita track saw, for me in my small space it’s safer & the accuracy of the track saw is amazing. So that’s not too much of an issue with the fence, a lot of what I do is small work on the table saw. Being about 12 years old or so it will seriously not only pass a nickel test, it will pass a dime test, and both tests were conducted cutting a 2” piece of Indian rose wood. I was actually amazed by this. It has actually been an extremely wonderful Saw to use & have in my garage & I would recommend it too!
You just sold me on the SawStop. Really great video and thanks for helping me decide!
awesome follow up for the last video thanks!
You should buy a vega fence they will fit almost all table saws they are a little bit pricey but after all my years in biz they are without any doubt the best
Appreciate the review both good and bad. Currently editing my initial review of my Delta and nodded along when you were talking dust collection on table saws.
I've only had mine a short time but I like the fence. I does deflect if you force it but there isn't normally pressure past the blade. The fence does not misalign or move during use. It moves and adjusts easily. My main issue is with the dust collection. I would appreciate any ideas from someone that has used the saw. My old Craftsman contractor saw with a DIY system collected dust better. The onboard tool holders are nice but are nothing special.
@shopnation use your miter saw dust collection fix a lot, the cabinet issue here is definitely a factor of the dust collection hookup, are you going to make a new one to fix cabinet build up in the laguna?
Thanks a lot for the 1yr review and your no-nonsense approach is very refreshing. The same F2 was on my final-two list when I was looking at upgrading from my almost 5 yrs old Ridgid R4512. Your comparison with the SawStop was IMHO spot on. I went with my other option, the Harvey HWL110LC-36P. I won't go through a detailed comparison, that would be hijacking this thread. Just to say the Harvey addresses a good deal of your like-not-so-much points.
Stay safe and think about all the hot-dogs you're saving by not having gone to the SawStop side of the Force ;-) If interested we could do that comparison remotely? NB my garage is WAAAYY messier than yours.
Patrick, I would love to hear your thoughts. I'm in between the Harvey 110LC-36P and F2
@@kp2four Between those 2, definitely the Harvey. Between the F3 and the same Harvey, that would be a much more nuanced decision. Again, I don't want to highjack here, so I'll leave it at that.
I've had the F2 since April and agree with your review, good and bad. I removed the overhead hose and connected it direct into my overhead mainline which helped a lot. You mention you've had yours for a year but I didn't get the dual view scale lens nor the angle DRO on mine. Was that an upgrade they included in your promo deal?
Sounds like you have the f1…$1200.00 saw does not have hi low fence or fro. The f2 $1700.00 saw has those extra features.
@@bryaneshenbaugh4569thanks, I'm referring to to the dual lens on the fence scale. I definitely have the F2.
Hi Travis, can you please explain how if you've had this saw for a year and your original video the saw didn't have the digital readout and this video it shows a saw which has the digital readout? I know you said you got a discount, but did you get a discount on 2 saws and get rid of the original one or did you somehow get one of them free?
@shopnation. Have you sketched the dust collection improvement ideas?
Ok, looks like a good professional cabinet table saw. You probably should have gown with a Harvey. That's what I have and Am VERY Happy with this device. 3 things you dislike about your Laguna, Harvey kills.
Worthy of a Change Home Improvements
Great review Travis.
I bought the F3 and have been really happy with everything EXCEPT the dust collection. In short, it's horrible, however, I've never found a table saw that has really good collection. All in all, they're great saws and would definitely recommend to anyone looking into a table saw purchase that they look hard at this series of saws.
You can put a 3mm strip of something at the end of the cast iron table and wheel at the end of the fence will bump into it making it solid and wont move a bit. I also noticed the same problem with the fence and this is so simple that Laguna should actually do this instead of me.
Purchased my f2 because of your original video. Would love to know if you’re going to sell a product that helps with the suction of the dust collector (cover for the open space by the front wheel)
Out of curiosity, did you do anything to the overhead dust collection? If so, do you have a video?
Thank you I have one same cons as you did you convert it to 220 will it give it more if I convert mine?
Actually a question. Did you switch to 220 and did it really make it run better? Do you have a link for the magnet for deflection or consider any other method?
Hi, Travis. I’m almost ready to buy a Laguna for my first upgraded table saw. Any thoughts on what you get for the extra $ from the F2 vsF1. Rockler has a good deal on an F1 in town but I don’t know whether I should upgrade to F2. Any thoughts you or others viewers have would be very helpful, thanks.
About that fence. Just check the screws or bolts that attach it to the locking mechanism just to eliminate the possibility of one or two being slight loose.
Things are never perfect.
Thanks for the honest review!
What happened to the Delta saw? Why did you change? I ask because I've been woodworking for about 8 months now, I have a 8 1/4 dewalt construction saw. I want to upgrade but not quite ready to pull the trigger on 2000.00 saw. I watched your delta video and was thinking that would be a good saw to upgrade to. Am I wrong on that thought?
Fair and honest review. My only nitpick is that this is not in the same league as a sawstop (even totally ignoring the safety system).
This is in the same league as harvey, king canada, grizzly etc.
Just curious, what about the SawStop makes it in a different league?
@@ShopNation
1- sawstop is 400lbs, that significantly more metal
2- fence has no deflection
3- look through the sawstop manual online in the adjustments section, sawstop has many more adjustments and much easier to adjust tricky things like tilt axis alignment. Sawstop does it with threaded adjusters. F2 has no provisions for it, you would have to shim the table until it’s right and accept factory tolerances on what can’t be adjusted.
4- dust collection works
5- cast iron trunions vs alu
6- one piece steel fence rails vs 2piece alu
Edit: more simply: they are both in the same league of saws, ie they are both true cabinet saws. But within the cabinet saw league, they are not directly comparable, in quality or price.
@homer009x I'd put the Harvey above the F2 (I own a Harvey).
Weight is 411lbs. Everything to switch to 220V is provided. Fence stays true in any situation with massive front and rear steel rails. Cast iron trunions. Dust collection is great, not perfect but pretty close. Single wrench blade change with push button to block the arbor, said wrench is long and quite thick (not a cheap piece of stamped steel). Single knob to secure the riving knife. 2 riving knifes included, one is on the blade guard. Top class miter gauge included. Throat plates are thick aluminum pieces with no deflection whatsoever and that open notch in the back. Just sayin'...
@@wildpat03 I agree with much of what you’re saying. But harvey and laguna are in the same ‘league’.
The king canada is very similar to the harvey and like you, I preferred it over the laguna. Although the king has a stamped steel throat plate which is not great.
The laguna does have one wrench blade change too, not even sawstop has that.
Would like to see you build an extension table for this saw, so I can copy your design and execution of course. I have an older version of the F1. Thanks.
I understand that the back of the fence does not influence the accuracy of the cut. By the time the board reaches the ricing knife it is already cut. If the cut board pushes on the back of the fence you have other problems. It is almost impossible to flex the back of the fence if your bland and fence are in alignment. Does the fence flex at the blade? If so that can cause issues for you.
Can you make any tightening adjustments on the “T” part of the fence. Normally used to adjust for square. Maybe tighten both sides?
I have used the laguna table saw, and I think they cheaped out on the front rail of the fence, as it’s made out of aluminum, not steel. Even the $650 delta saw has a steel front rail! Their saws are pretty damn good, but aluminum is a very soft metal, and having the fence clamp down on that is, well, poorly designed… I now use a sawstop, and that fence has no deflection at all, as the front bar is steel. I haven’t seen any other cabinet saw besides the laguna use an aluminum fence bar. Usually jobsite saws have aluminum bars… I am disappointed about this, and would not classify this to be on par with a sawstop, grizzly, or jet, as this was a major part they really skimped out on the quality. I upgraded my old one a while ago with a delta fence, and it’s so much better! But you gave honest opinions, and actually gave useful information about the saw. This was a really good video!
Does the fence actually stay true when setting up for a measurement? My current table saw when I set my fence to say 8 inches, the place closest to the fence handle will be 8 inches from the blade but the far end will be 1/16th of an inch off or so. So I have to constantly measure the front and back of my blade to the fence and keep taping the fence over and over again to make sure I'm perfectly parallel. I'm wanting to upgrade my saw and love the SawStop but the Laguna F2 seems perfect for my needs, with a lower price tag. I just don't want to have another fence with this issue
Hi thanks for the review. So I bought my fusion 2 right after seeing your first video of getting yours. I pulled the ripcord and bought exact saw as the ONE YOU HAD ON YOUR ORIGINAL video. And in the flashback part of this video you can see that you ORIGINALLY did not have the degree readout on front of saw. Now suddenly you do. So how did you get that feature???? It sure is t in the original video and I never got it on my saw????? Why did you seem to want to hide that fact ?? And if you got it how do I get it ???
I was coming here to make that same comment. I bought my saw shortly after watching that first video. Mine didn't come with the tilt readout or the high low marking on the fence like in this video. I agree with all the other negatives. After watching that first video and doing some research, I canceled an order I had for a Grizzly to get this. Worst decision I have ever made. :( I'm thinking of selling this and getting a SawStop.
@@halsaresnowpaw522 if you can afford a sawstop, it’s the best decision you can make.
Since there was an agreement with laguna for his review, I could only imagine any company with half a brain would be sure their latest and greatest models are featured. I can only assume laguna exchanged it for him, perks of the status.
Thanks for a excellent review 👍🏻
Great review, just enough info to make me want to go up a notch or two, maybe Harvey or SawStop.
Do you think you could add a router lift on the right side of your Laguna table saw?
I also have the F2, however mine must be slightly older than yours because it does not have the digital gauge, other than that it appears identical. I had a ton of issues with the "euro" fence, it was basically twisted it was out of square to the left at the front, and out of square to the right at the back and let to some very poor cuts. They ended up sending me an older, standard style fence to replace it (free of charge), just unfortunate because now the tape measure doesnt line up anymore lol
I really appreciate your review...this saw is one of three I'm looking at buying in the near future and your information helped a great deal. As a side note, I'm interested in where you bought (or made?) that fence caddy? I would love to get one! Thanks
Can we install a router table as an add-on?