Auto Gearbox Jatco JF506E - Solenoids Renewed - Rough Shifting Fixed - V6 Land Rover Freelander
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- Опубликовано: 3 мар 2018
- Disclaimer : by watching this video, you agree to not hold the video poster or author liable for anything that may or may not happen as a result. Always work safely. Working on cars is dangerous. This video is not a substitute for expert technical assistance. Please consult technical expertise if unsure. In this video, I renew the 9 solenoids as found in the Jatco JF506E automatic gearbox from the Land Rover KV6 Freelander. The reason: I had hard shifting while in Drive. While in Drive when the auto gearbox went through gears either up shifting or downshifting, gear changes were very rough, it felt like the car was wanting to lurch forward. This also happened when I shifted in to D from either N or P - the car would lurch forward in a very rough way. This was fixed by renewing the solenoids. Note : it's possible that not all solenoids required renewal to fix this problem, but since the fluid pan had to come off, I thought better to renew all 9 of them anyway. This fixed all problems I had with the hard and rough shifting - the lurching forward when shifting to D gear was also fixed by same. This is the Jatco JF506E gearbox as found in the v6 Land Rover Freelander and some other vehicles. Also please note : there can be other reason/s (aside from solenoids) for hard or rough shifting - please consult an automatic transmission specialist.
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I replaced the solenoids recently on the Rover 75. The 2.5 and the auto gearbox are the same as in the Freelander 1. It was possible to do it by just removing the air box but room was very limited.
One of the solenoids at the top are fixed by a nut rather than a long bolt. Quite disconcerting when the bolt disappears into the backing plate. My initial thoughts had it dropping inside the transmission causing all sorts of damage but fortunately that didn’t happen and a strong magnet pulled the bolt back through its hole.
Keep up with your videos.
Nathan
QLD.
Hi Nathan, I know what you mean. I had that bolt disappear in to the backing plate then I spent the next 5 minutes thinking and scratching my head for ideas, I was even thinking of pulling the gearbox and simply renewing it (the whole gearbox)... in the search for ideas, I grabbed a magnetic rod and voilla, out it comes! I hope all viewers who may experience this end up reading this comment - there is light inside the tunnel! Videoing always is difficult since working full time doesn't give me as much time as I'd like to have available, I also don't have a helper or even someone who could hold the camera or even a counterpart.
Just out of interest and for the benefit of other Rover 75 or Jatco box owners, what made you renew the solenoids? Was it hard shifting or lurching forward like mine each time you placed it in to D from N or P? How did you find doing the level check in the auto gearbox, was that fun? (not!@) I did the same on a Ford Focus 2009 Auto and the book states (no joke!) to take the car (from cold) on a trip of at least 16km then upon your return while the engine still idles grab the dipstick for the correct level check.
Jasco Kovacevic I had hard shifting up and down especially 2 to 3 to 4 . I also did 3 fluid changes, not the flush. I’ve read horror stories about flushes.
I didn’t have any means of checking the temperature underneath the car so I put warm water in a glass and measured the temperature, adding hot or cold water until it was 30 degrees. I put my finger in it and realised it was just luke warm.
I ran the car for a few minutes moving it through the gears, drained the fluid and running it over my finger, it felt similar to 30 degrees. Put the drain plug back in, added about the same amount of fluid plus 500mls more. I started the car and moved the shift lever through each of the gears and back into Park, leaving the car running.
I undid the level checking bolt and allowed fluid to run out until it was just a drip and felt by my finger to be 30 degrees. This apparently is the correct level. I have read that there is 300ml leeway plus or minus.
Not a good job. Also, one has to be very certain they are undoing the correct bolt or one loses reverse gear.
Nathan, glad your doing it yourself and hope the inspiration is seen here by anyone reading or viewing. I notice you have a Rover not a Freelander V6, but in the RAVE (land rover's) official manual for the V6 Freelander, it states that the temperature must be between 35 and 45 degrees C. I have a few scan tools but none of them read the ATF fluid temp as with your case.
I have 2 alternative methods for fluid checking like yourself. 1 is riskier than the others - as you see why I haven't put up a video on it. (1) Digital Thermometer with a line (skinny cable) attached to it. Seeing your a fellow Aussie, I bought one of these at Bunnings a few years ago and used it successfully. The line is quite long, about a metre so the length is fine. The end of the line has a plastic tip which is the thermometer. The other end of the line is linked to a digital temperature readout. Just fish the line in to the fluid pan and get the instant temperature reading. Just ensure you fish it far enough inwards in order for the tip to touch the fluid. The Risk : When you try and fish it back out to retrieve it, the line may get caught around a solenoid (that did happen to me once but patience and persistence allowed me to fish it back out without leaving any part in the fluid pan or damaging a solenoid). This thermometer is actually meant for liquids anyway.
2nd Method. Digital laser thermometer. This one I bought on Ebay slightly more expensive than the Bunnings one. This one fires a Laser and tells you what the temperature is of whatever object or liquid or item the laser fires on. I have found you can actually fire the laser in to the fluid pan to get the fluid inside - thus there's your reading. I remember I had extra confirmation as I also fired the laser thermometer on to fluid just as it came dripping out of the level check hole and it was 43 degrees C. Just ensure if you do this that you fire it a few times.
Jasco Kovacevic That’s interesting about the temperature. I thought it was 30. Could mean I am over filled. I will check out those temp measuring devices. That laser one sounds useful for other purposes too.
I did the cam belt and other moving parts change back in December, together with cam seals - what a job that was! I bought the laser locking tools to do the job.
I replaced all 9 of the solenoids on a 2002 (US model) last year, and changed all of the fluid with LR fluid. Still have the same problems, the transmission slips and displays the F4 in shift indicator. Thought about replacing the entire gearbox with a new re built unit. What would you recommend? Order a rebuild kit for the gearbox or replace with new rebuilt unit?
Would this be easily done without a lift?
Hi ghomarch, sorry to hear about the painful autobox experience. I'm not a gearbox rebuilder or specialist but I will say that mine was rough shifting and lurching forward when I'd move it in to D from P or N, but it wasn't displaying the F4. For the record, I also don't use LR fluid for this gearbox but Nulon SYNATF4 as it meets the specifications in RAVE concerning same. If you end up ordering a rebuild kit for this gearbox, the issue could be a few different causes. If your a gearbox rebuilder, I'd say go for the rebuild kit as when you remove it you'll be able to see what's making it do that, etc. Not sure whether your likely to get a warranty if you get the kit. Though with a rebuilt unit, your likely to get a warranty. The box can be removed without engine removal but If you need to do the belts, might be easier to simply remove the whole thing with the transfer case + engine + auto box attached.
Thanks again. Is there audio or is the issue on my end ?
Hi Zeferrum, no it's not on your side i'm afraid.. I tried to get creative and add instrumental music after 2:2 since that's when I stopped talking... but too much creative thought and excitement meant I forgot to equalize the music and original audio so the original audio was lost! Am fixing it as we speak... Sorry to everyone that had to endure silence until 2:22. Should be fixed by the time you watch it next. Jasco. :-)
I have a Freelander 2001 with auto transmition that sometimes won't engage reverse. Or I should say it sometimes engages revers(Most of the time it simply won't) could this be a problem on a sensor or a Solenoid? Pleased to hear any comments form you guys
Hi Gustavo, sorry about your Kv6 Freelander experiences. I have not experiences that One before so can’t say whether or not renewing sensors or solenoids will work without removal of gearbox and sending to specialists. Have you had the car scanned for codes, if so which ones come up? A good OBD scanner will be able to tap in to the Auto Gearbox Computer and scan that for codes.
Hi again Gustavo, Coincidentally I’m actually selling the automatic gearbox from my former 2001 Kv6 Freelander on eBay, here is the link www.ebay.com.au/itm/Jatco-JF506E-Automatic-Transmission-from-Freelander-1-KV6-/274515617999?pageci=b0484919-625f-4fb2-a9a3-1bdfae938f94
The car was hit by a Hyundai SUV (not my fault) in July 2020 from the front (thank god myself and the other driver and her daughter were able to exit our cars ourselves), with both cars having been declared write offs. I removed the engihe and auto gearbox and several other parts Not damaged and if anyone needs something just ask. It was my favourite Freelander. Just note, the auto gearbox in itself is very particular in procedures for basic things, for instance to do anything with the transmission fluid, the temperature has to be between 35 and 45 degrees Celsius. I did all such work myself and at one stage put up a video but took it down following feedback with the risk being there were too many parameters and of procedure not being done by the book could lead to damage to the automatic Jatco gearbox. Did you have any work done at all to the gearbox beforehand? This page contains a good write up on level checking the fluid www.myfreelander.co.uk/Transmission/mainprobs4.htm
Hello! First of all, sorry for my english its not very well :D I also have a rover with a v6 engine and a jatco gearbox, my problem is that on a cold gearbox it is difficult to change gears and it tugs when changing from N to D, on a warm one this jerk does not occur and it changes gears almost imperceptibly, but one gear sometimes is getting longer, is it the fault of the oil?
Hi, that’s fine I can understand you. Could be many things if it only does it when it’s cold. Get it scanned, any codes? You can try fluid change but Beware! It’s a specific procedure and if you get it wrong, you’ll lose all drive in the gearbox! Do you have the link for the procedure?
@@jascokovacevic what is the procedure to do that? I’d like to know this by the time I get my Rover 75, as I understand it has the same power train as your Defender
Hi Diego, mine was a kv6 Freelander not a Defender. It’s not that hard actually, just need to get good access to get to the fluid pan and remove all bolts. And when your done, it’s a special procedure to refill the gearbox, get your self a hold of the procedure otherwise undoing the wrong bolt or not adhering to procedure could leave your gearbox without any drive!
Do u have to remove the whole front end? Is there another way?
Hi Richard, I don't think you'll get access to remove the solenoids any other way... You'll also need to apply RTV sealant to the fluid pan when your done so you'd want good access to be able to do that properly otherwise it'll leak in the future.
Has anyone got a list number for the solenoids on Ebay as can't find them.
Hi Graham, navigate to ebay.com and try this text "solenoid kit Jatco JF506E". Alternatively try this link, www.ebay.com/itm/Original-09A-VW-Solenoid-Kit-JF506E-New-Jatco/173609486607?hash=item286bee890f:g:oCsAAOSwoMZcdFx7:rk:1:pf:1 The link is for the 9 complete solenoids, many sellers are selling 3 or lesser than 9 but in my opinion if you are going to be removing the fluid pan you may as well change all 9 of them while your at it.
Goodnight my bro I am working on one now with no spark no injector pulse change crank sensor and Cam sensor still no spark or injector pulse so I am ask for help plz
hi Travis, I haven’t had my Kv6 for more than a year now but, what lead to this point, what was the catalyst for replacing the cam and crank sensor ? Was some other work done? Were any of the negative Earth cables removed or slackened for the earlier work and if so, have they been returned to previous ?
@@jascokovacevic no work was done on it the first owner who had it say someone hook up the battery wrong but now o went to talk to the person died for covid but what I can say the ecu still showing me 5v reference so that I i say the ecu is still good but don't really no
Yes that can fry the ECU. What voltage are you getting for the battery just curiosity, 12.6 or higher?
When you turn the key to Ignition, do you get anything that lights up on the dash at all? Are you able to scan it for error codes if at least you get some signs of life with dash lights when you turn the key?
@@jascokovacevic I am getting 12.6volts which is correct
Koji je to auto?
Hi Gorane, auto je 2001v6 Land Rover Freelander.
Hvala na odgovoru
Izvrstan video.Imam audi a3 tdi 2001 jf506a 09a koji mislim da ima identičan mjenjač (hladan je u safe modu poslije proradi)
Pozdrav!