Interesting to see Holly have a sudden, spontaneous 'posh' moment. I wonder how many knew that 'posh' is actually an acronym ('port out, starboard home') used for reservations for colonial Brits sailing east (out) to Suez, India, Singapore etc. and back west (home) afterwards; these cabins were cooler because they faced north most of the way. The most important passengers got P. O. S. H. cabins.
I would have hand cranked the engine just a touch to make sure your impeller actually spun. Great video. I love your maintenance and how to videos. Keep them coming.
Using a repair sleeve is the correct way to fix that shaft, it's awesome that they recommended that to you. Then next time you take it apart you can replace either piece and the busing inside will be a normal/usual size.
@@ijuggle42 They have so little thermal mass that it's a waste of time to try and heat them up. They normally come with a installation cup so you aren't hitting them directly.
Yeah, that's a bad idea to use the bilge pump exit under waterline. The bilge pump was designed to suck not push. This will tax her bilge pump and burn it out. 😮
I actually re-engineered and built a new rudder and added a skeg. Slightly different profile from the original on my boat. Very rewarding. Lots of thought. Very enjoyable but I'm hoping I'll never have to do it again on any boat one and done.
That was an impressive job on the rudder bushings - removal of the bottom plate - drilling the skeg to access the nuts and remedials after not for the faint hearted!
Hahah personally I thought 💭 Dan or Andy needed to find a buzzer noise on their phone and “Buzz” the buzzer when she hit the edge of the hole 😂😂 Boat “operation” game
Next time you do fiberglass patching, I suggest that you put the largest piece on first, then progressively smaller pieces. That way the largest piece have continuous bond to the base, and the small pieces get ground down in the fairing process.
As to filling in the access holes for the bottom plate - I would have drilled out the holes to the size of a pipe plug, tapped the fiberglass with the appropriate pipe thread, and installed the pipe plugs with sealant... quick easy access whenever you need to, and also allows for draining the skeg if necessary.
Overheated motor! If the impeller is ok, take the cover off the thermostat cover (top of the motor) and check the thermostat. Could be frozen CLOSED. If not disconnect the pipes and blow through the pipes. Any blockage would show up.
She's more popular than most small channels, proper sailing content here. But a lot of people only want the slickly produced professional videos and Holly does raw and real :)
you guys are amazing. so resourceful and resilient. Its great to see you developing a supportive community around you. Andy is a god-send. Also great to hear you say "happy happy joy joy" at the end , which I am pretty sure is from Ren and Stimpy
Hugh jobs but attention to detail will help you feel safe and secure …. Boats are constant maintenance.. no end to the little jobs and big jobs … well done team 🤗🙋🏼♂️🙋♀️🇨🇦
Things I've learnt that people might find useful, Where ever water in fiberglass cavities wash out with either metho or white vinegar to evaporate water before reseal. When putting disimilar metals, like washers, bolts bushes etc.. either duralac, tefgel or good old sheeps lanoline will prevent galvanic action in the salt environment. As people have said here drill slow but also use small to large drill bits and use cutting paste. Slow drilling goes for fiberglass too. When sanding fiberglass, if you can't completely cover your skin coat it with talcum powder first to clog your pours with nicer stuff than shards of glass (itchy). Raw water issues usually go> outside hull sieve >first inboard strainer>impellor>heat exchanger tubes.
Is the rubber spinning on the metal insert of the impeller, so the shaft turns but the rubber doesn't spin all the time It's an impeller renew but you don't have to look for bits, hard to figure out, simple to fix I enjoy your channel, thanks
Nothing feels better than a job well done. Better overdo it it bit and minimize the chance of any future mishaps. Those always happen at the worst possible moment, making you think 'If only I had ...'.
When the plate was originally fitted to the skeg was it bolted from above with a very long socket extension? Is there any access from above? Seems an odd design if not.
Concerning the water/water pump issue - I'd suggest confirming the impeller actually turns, replacing thermostat, and pushing a wire through the intake hose that exits the hull (I've had a blocked intake hose multiple times). Have to believe the problem is in one of these areas. Regardless, if anyone can fix it, I guarantee her name will be Holly. Peace out!
*Good* job folks! Between your father & brother's guidance, & your efforts, it seems like the "Geck." is being repaired right,(says a man that is not as knowledgeable as you 4.) 🙏🦉
Holly, you are awesome! Thanks for the inspiration, and practical reality. Dan is the man! He adds a lot to the channel as well. I very much appreciate what you all have to share…💕🥰😻💪🫶🤓🤩🫏
With the worn out holes, top of rudder, Holly. Drill out a wee bit bigger and epoxy Stainless tube so no more wear on the wooden part. Also, captive nuts, tig weld onto a flat bit of stainless with holes in, epoxy in with bolts in place with Vaseline on thread. Set & forget...😊
If you ever need to do a similar job again, I use a diamond saw in a reciprocating saw or hacksaw frame if that is all that is available, and cut the stainless plate in half alongside the lower rudder pintle bearing or bi-directional thrust bearing. Once rudder is free, you can then remove the rest by hacksawing through the bolts by using the diamond saw between the skeg and remains of the base plate. QED.
There is a channel called "Project Farm", who produced an episode on penetrating oils. Sadly, your favorite PB Blaster didn't do so well. Looks like solid fix on the rudder and those heavy diesel engines take hours to cool down.
Yes slow as .... slower than you think. Watch for the slowly spiralling shavings. Small drill bit 3-4mm then up to large in jumps of 3mm. Drilling compound paste makes it so much easier too.
I've used WestSystems Graphite filler to make 'slippery' but durable surfaces to reduce friction. (Kayak rudder pedal hinges) Not sure if it would be good for an 'no bushing available,' or 'fill in around the worn shaft' situation. Split lock washers over time can lose their springiness, so in some situations they're not the best choice. & I've used instant pancake mix as a filler for epoxy. Cheap grocery store flour also works. It thickens the epoxy for filling and for attaching hardware. Is completely inert, lasts as long as any 'real' epoxy filler.
Nyloc nuts, stainless & good eye protection. Assistant could have had rag in back pocket. Use to walk into drydock & see all the barnacles yuck. Nice Halloween essential repairs. Looking both confident masters of your domain. Good to see crew gives eye eye to captain.
That's boats. There is nothing like a simple job, unless you are very lucky. The problems seem to breed when you are not looking. The learning curve is really about knowing what the most likely cause of a problem is and applying "Occam's Razor".
remind me to advertise my machine shop to the marina area... I'm open most weekends and holidays, for emergency work... but I'm also on the other side of the planet lol.
those skeg bushings may last longer using ultra TEF gel lubricant, doesn't wash out easily and seems to be a good product specially the upper one that has no water in constant contact with those parts
it is possible your oil cooler for the reduction gear has some eel grass balled up in it, I once had that problem where the eelgrass lined up perfectly and got by the sea strainer . I would slowly overheat as I increased rpm. .It was allowing sufficient coolant to get by the cooling system at lower rpm but at higher rpms it wasn't enough to keep the engine cool.
Pretty funny to see your man sitting on the lounge and munching a sandwich while you sit on the floor pulling an engine apart. Ahhhh my stereotypes…. I need new ones….
I tried to wash a paintbrush I used for bed liner with my bare hands, took about two weeks to come off. I was a server for a catering company on weekends. Yeah. Wear gloves when you should so you don't have to when you don't need to, c'mon chef you know better lol
Me @ 2:56 , it’s the impeller, the rubber has separated from the center hub. Just a guess, ALWAYS CHECK this. Now let’s continue watching and see if I’m right.
Interesting to see Holly have a sudden, spontaneous 'posh' moment. I wonder how many knew that 'posh' is actually an acronym ('port out, starboard home') used for reservations for colonial Brits sailing east (out) to Suez, India, Singapore etc. and back west (home) afterwards; these cabins were cooler because they faced north most of the way. The most important passengers got P. O. S. H. cabins.
Love the kitchen utensils hanging in front of the flywheel on the engine compartment door, good use of space.😂😅
I would have hand cranked the engine just a touch to make sure your impeller actually spun.
Great video. I love your maintenance and how to videos. Keep them coming.
Why aren't you viral yet?!
Safely vaccinated by being a wind hippie.
Using a repair sleeve is the correct way to fix that shaft, it's awesome that they recommended that to you. Then next time you take it apart you can replace either piece and the busing inside will be a normal/usual size.
It's also better to heat them than it is to hammer them....
@@ijuggle42 They have so little thermal mass that it's a waste of time to try and heat them up. They normally come with a installation cup so you aren't hitting them directly.
@@gerbil7771 If the come with the cup that is the best way but I've warmed them up while pushing them on old spindles.
Not sure that is optimal to have bilge pump exit below waterline, but leave it to you to consider possible scenarios.
Yeah, that's a bad idea to use the bilge pump exit under waterline. The bilge pump was designed to suck not push. This will tax her bilge pump and burn it out. 😮
I actually re-engineered and built a new rudder and added a skeg. Slightly different profile from the original on my boat. Very rewarding. Lots of thought. Very enjoyable but I'm hoping I'll never have to do it again on any boat one and done.
That was an impressive job on the rudder bushings - removal of the bottom plate - drilling the skeg to access the nuts and remedials after not for the faint hearted!
Everyman dreams of having a companion as capable as Holly
I'm waiting for the video where Dan has appendicitis.... "I only had two spoons on board, but I needed retractors...."
14:15 I believe this maneuver is called "Screwdriver Chopsticks"
Hahah personally I thought 💭 Dan or Andy needed to find a buzzer noise on their phone and “Buzz” the buzzer when she hit the edge of the hole 😂😂
Boat “operation” game
I've been waiting, another upload from you!
Smart job on the rudder. Happy that you found your Dan half. You're much happier. Cheers
As somebody who lives in Kansas I love your videos. love the fixes that you come up with feel like I'm learning right along with you
Nice glassing job on the skeg...
Next time you do fiberglass patching, I suggest that you put the largest piece on first, then progressively smaller pieces. That way the largest piece have continuous bond to the base, and the small pieces get ground down in the fairing process.
brilliantly creative repair on the rudder pins! Normally those (speedy) sleeves are used to repair the bearing surface of a damaged spindle axel.
You have a great engineering team Captain. Gecko is in great hands.
Great post / progress
That team dynamic was welcoming and genuine
As to filling in the access holes for the bottom plate - I would have drilled out the holes to the size of a pipe plug, tapped the fiberglass with the appropriate pipe thread, and installed the pipe plugs with sealant... quick easy access whenever you need to, and also allows for draining the skeg if necessary.
Overheated motor! If the impeller is ok, take the cover off the thermostat cover (top of the motor) and check the thermostat. Could be frozen CLOSED. If not disconnect the pipes and blow through the pipes. Any blockage would show up.
great work. it is so reassuring that your rudder is solid.
She's more popular than most small channels, proper sailing content here. But a lot of people only want the slickly produced professional videos and Holly does raw and real :)
you guys are amazing. so resourceful and resilient. Its great to see you developing a supportive community around you. Andy is a god-send. Also great to hear you say "happy happy joy joy" at the end , which I am pretty sure is from Ren and Stimpy
Getting it done guys. Stay after it. Looking forward to seeing the Gecko out on the open water. Stay safe…
You never cease to amaze me girl😊
She really should run for President of her country when she's over 35.
Hugh jobs but attention to detail will help you feel safe and secure …. Boats are constant maintenance.. no end to the little jobs and big jobs … well done team 🤗🙋🏼♂️🙋♀️🇨🇦
Nice job, smart on the nylocks.
And right on for finding those shims for the shaft - slick solution!
I love how you decided to show project by project! Makes a video make more sense!
cool rudder project - well done!!
Loctite 609 is wonderful stuff. Great fix!
Things I've learnt that people might find useful,
Where ever water in fiberglass cavities wash out with either metho or white vinegar to evaporate water before reseal. When putting disimilar metals, like washers, bolts bushes etc.. either duralac, tefgel or good old sheeps lanoline will prevent galvanic action in the salt environment.
As people have said here drill slow but also use small to large drill bits and use cutting paste. Slow drilling goes for fiberglass too.
When sanding fiberglass, if you can't completely cover your skin coat it with talcum powder first to clog your pours with nicer stuff than shards of glass (itchy).
Raw water issues usually go> outside hull sieve >first inboard strainer>impellor>heat exchanger tubes.
You are a star Holly 😊
Real life is haard. Top job guys. Time for a cold one, or two.
Hope everything turns out ok.Fascinating fixes on difficult complicated problems on the boat.Keep at it.Bon Voyage.
I will remember the pvc foam board.
You’re inspirational
Alltid gøy å se andre jobbe! Good job!
Learned a lot this week!Mahalo!
Is the rubber spinning on the metal insert of the impeller, so the shaft turns but the rubber doesn't spin all the time
It's an impeller renew but you don't have to look for bits, hard to figure out, simple to fix
I enjoy your channel, thanks
Great idea
Thanks fot concern over rudder
We installed a monitor on a Mariah 31 huge pain in the ass!
Nothing feels better than a job well done. Better overdo it it bit and minimize the chance of any future mishaps. Those always happen at the worst possible moment, making you think 'If only I had ...'.
Thank you, Miss Positive ❤
It looks like the two of you are madly in love! 💖💖
When the plate was originally fitted to the skeg was it bolted from above with a very long socket extension? Is there any access from above? Seems an odd design if not.
Good job, guys!
Happy Happy Joy Joy!
Concerning the water/water pump issue - I'd suggest confirming the impeller actually turns, replacing thermostat, and pushing a wire through the intake hose that exits the hull (I've had a blocked intake hose multiple times). Have to believe the problem is in one of these areas. Regardless, if anyone can fix it, I guarantee her name will be Holly. Peace out!
Love the safety shoes guys😮 Be careful.
Cool stuff but i would look at up sizing the screws on your rubber top cap.
22:05 Interesting edit.
Love your trip 😜👍👍
*Good* job folks!
Between your father & brother's guidance, & your efforts, it seems like the "Geck." is being repaired right,(says a man that is not as knowledgeable as you 4.)
🙏🦉
I wish you could do a bit of an up grade boat. Love your life and videos ❤
Holly, you are awesome! Thanks for the inspiration, and practical reality. Dan is the man! He adds a lot to the channel as well. I very much appreciate what you all have to share…💕🥰😻💪🫶🤓🤩🫏
With the worn out holes, top of rudder, Holly. Drill out a wee bit bigger and epoxy Stainless tube so no more wear on the wooden part. Also, captive nuts, tig weld onto a flat bit of stainless with holes in, epoxy in with bolts in place with Vaseline on thread. Set & forget...😊
You are so POSH !!! great job on the rudder ! enjoying your videos ! Peace !
If you ever need to do a similar job again, I use a diamond saw in a reciprocating saw or hacksaw frame if that is all that is available, and cut the stainless plate in half alongside the lower rudder pintle bearing or bi-directional thrust bearing. Once rudder is free, you can then remove the rest by hacksawing through the bolts by using the diamond saw between the skeg and remains of the base plate. QED.
Great video. Some very cool information and processes being shown. I’m guessing the engine over heating water issue is in next video
There is a channel called "Project Farm", who produced an episode on penetrating oils. Sadly, your favorite PB Blaster didn't do so well. Looks like solid fix on the rudder and those heavy diesel engines take hours to cool down.
Reduce your RPM to the slowest when drilling stainless steel.
And put pressure on the drill
Yes slow as .... slower than you think.
Watch for the slowly spiralling shavings.
Small drill bit 3-4mm then up to large in jumps of 3mm. Drilling compound paste makes it so much easier too.
I've used WestSystems Graphite filler to make 'slippery' but durable surfaces to reduce friction. (Kayak rudder pedal hinges) Not sure if it would be good for an 'no bushing available,' or 'fill in around the worn shaft' situation. Split lock washers over time can lose their springiness, so in some situations they're not the best choice.
& I've used instant pancake mix as a filler for epoxy. Cheap grocery store flour also works. It thickens the epoxy for filling and for attaching hardware. Is completely inert, lasts as long as any 'real' epoxy filler.
Nyloc nuts, stainless & good eye protection.
Assistant could have had rag in back pocket.
Use to walk into drydock & see all the barnacles yuck.
Nice Halloween essential repairs.
Looking both confident masters of your domain.
Good to see crew gives eye eye to captain.
We love you so much sweetheart good luck❤😊😊
Thanks
That's boats. There is nothing like a simple job, unless you are very lucky. The problems seem to breed when you are not looking. The learning curve is really about knowing what the most likely cause of a problem is and applying "Occam's Razor".
Slick , just slick .......!
remind me to advertise my machine shop to the marina area... I'm open most weekends and holidays, for emergency work... but I'm also on the other side of the planet lol.
If your raw water pump and strainer are working as they should, I would flush the entire system with barnacle buster/descaler.
those skeg bushings may last longer using ultra TEF gel lubricant, doesn't wash out easily and seems to be a good product specially the upper one that has no water in constant contact with those parts
Good job, im guessing your next boat will be bigger, any idea on model/Size?
Hope you stick with a Mono.
Some worrying cracks and porosity there! 😮
What did you do to keep the nuts from spinning the NEXT time you drop the rudder?
it is possible your oil cooler for the reduction gear has some eel grass balled up in it, I once had that problem where the eelgrass lined up perfectly and got by the sea strainer . I would slowly overheat as I increased rpm. .It was allowing sufficient coolant to get by the cooling system at lower rpm but at higher rpms it wasn't enough to keep the engine cool.
Machine screws and not bolts in rudder head? Where did water in rudder come from and was that fixed?
Last time my diesel overheated, the raw water hose was clogged by grass at the 90° bend on the input side of the strainer.
🙌🙌🙌
Dan isn't afraid to wolf down a sandwich no problem baby!
Pretty funny to see your man sitting on the lounge and munching a sandwich while you sit on the floor pulling an engine apart. Ahhhh my stereotypes…. I need new ones….
Easier way to put the rudder out: just remove the upper fitting! The lower fitting is often only to be screwed through the inner side of the skeg.
Spray fish oil or lanocote on everything that can rust or corrode.
PB laster will unlock any bolt and lube at the same time !
What was wrong with the engine overheating?
Great job on the rudder 🤝👍🇺🇸
Thanks for that peek inside the rudder - very valuable to a fellow Grinde sailor. Was there any foam/balsa/soupy rot inside or is it hollow?
What was impeding the exhaust water flow?
I tried to wash a paintbrush I used for bed liner with my bare hands, took about two weeks to come off. I was a server for a catering company on weekends. Yeah. Wear gloves when you should so you don't have to when you don't need to, c'mon chef you know better lol
You probably need a rocket flare for more than 2NM offshore in Australian waters.
Make your own lunch… thanks Dad 😮
Where are you at the moment
I see a lot of red flags with your dude friend.
👍👍👍
Holly, how much is a new engine?
Are you offering
@@markthomasson5077 are you holly?
But what happened to your engine?
🤠👍
😀😃
What about fresh / coolant water pump…not salt pump!
Me @ 2:56 , it’s the impeller, the rubber has separated from the center hub.
Just a guess, ALWAYS CHECK this.
Now let’s continue watching and see if I’m right.
Or the drive pin may have sheared (if the impeller is that type).
Looks like the inside needs paint also
Dan needs to wear rubber gloves.
When are you getting a bigger boat?