Brake Replacement | Mercedes E-Class W212
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 8 апр 2021
- This video was performed on a 2011 Mercedes w212 E300.
Mercedes fitted the W212 E-Class with different brake options, check which brakes fit your car before ordering.
Repair Manual: shrsl.com/4ez3t
20% OFF Sitewide Code: ZAKI20
Parts used:
Front discs: MB# 000 421 12 12
ZIMMERMANN# 400.3664.52 www.autodoc.co.uk/zimmermann/...
Rear discs: MB# 000 423 09 12
ZIMMERMANN# 400.3622.52 www.autodoc.co.uk/zimmermann/...
Front brake pad: MB# 007 420 75 20 amzn.to/39YHOl0
BOSCH# 0 986 494 263 amzn.to/39TRIEL
www.autodoc.co.uk/bosch/1167878
Rear brake pad: MB# 007 420 10 20 amzn.to/3d5PbcI
BOSCH# 0 986 495 248 www.autodoc.co.uk/bosch/8465500
Wear sensor: MB# 211 540 17 17 amzn.to/2RpTWFt
BOSCH# 1 987 473 070 amzn.to/3s6LKqn
www.autodoc.co.uk/bosch/707443
Floor Jack: amzn.to/3pqYJSf
Jack Stand: amzn.to/3wIoRNg
All Purpose Gloves: amzn.to/39Ywgyo
Brake caliper compression tool: amzn.to/39ULkgo
Brake Cleaner: amzn.to/3wI9J2z
Brake Caliper Synthetic Grease: amzn.to/323FbKp
Silicone Grease: amzn.to/2PTfN7R
Digital Caliper: amzn.to/3dKzZRe
Socket Set: amzn.to/3oo60E8
Box End Wrench Set: amzn.to/30pLKty
Screwdriver Set: amzn.to/3Ce5YDt
Rubber Mallet: amzn.to/3kAzYnc
Wire Brush: amzn.to/3cb2188
Torque Wrench: amzn.to/3wGZ5JT
Pick Set: amzn.to/3Cik6LT
Some of links above are affiliate links, which means I'll earn a small commission if your make a purchase from my links which will help out this channel! 🙏
I am not a certified or professional mechanic. This video is for entertainment purposes only. Zaki Garage assumes no liability for any actions performed by the viewer as a result of the information contained in this video. 
Авто/Мото
This video is a couple years old and still helping people like me out - going to wait a few weeks to study this video and order the tools/parts.
Barakallah feekum habibi 😊
Let this video be a reminder to descale and clean all of the working parts while you have access to them. The attention to detail in this video is outstanding.
Couple of additional suggestions: 1) Always pop the hood and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap and assess the fluid before starting the brake job and keep the cap off during the service with a towel around the neck of the reservoir to catch any drips/overflow. If you have an electronic tester, use it to see the condition of the fluid--it may need to be replaced if it has absorbed too much moisture (it's very hygroscopic). If you don't have an electronic tester, assess the color and if it seems overly dark compared to new fluid or if it's been two years or more since it was flushed, plan on replacing it. If you do need to replace the fluid, do it at the same time as the brake job as you will already have the vehicle in the air, wheels off and easy access to the brake fluid drain nipples behind each caliper. Also, if the fluid level in the reservoir is at the max level or above, use a turkey baster or syringe to remove some of the fluid down to half way between min and max. This will assure that the fluid pressure in your system won't spike and damage your components, and/or the reservoir will not overflow the very caustic brake fluid on delicate parts in your engine bay when you compress the caliper pistons with the compression tool prior to installing the new pads. After finishing the job, either completely replace the brake fluid if its gone bad, or top off the brake fluid level to the max level with new fluid and re-seal the reservoir cap.
2) Removal of the two caliper slide pins from their rubber boots for cleaning and lubrication with a silicone-based lube on the FRONT brakes was NOT shown during the video. This step WAS shown on the BACK brakes, though. Do it on the fronts the same way as shown there. Dirty, sticky slide pins can keep the calipers from compressing the pads to the rotors evenly when braking, which can wear pads and rotors unevenly and cause you to have to do this maintenance again way too soon. You got this!
Good stuff, Amy, your suggestions are spot on. One detail though, the front caliper slide pins on this model are sealed under rubber boots and just have two regular bolts (always included with new pads). There is no lubrication needed, it's actually a pretty cool design. Your suggestion applies to most other cars though so it's good you mention it.
I have changed my brake rotors and pads and also brake lines. After that I replaced the brake fluid but after starting the car, the brake pedal felt spongy and weak. I proceeded with the two person method (with a hose merged in to some old brake fluid ) and only opened the brake nipple when the other person was pressing the brake pedal. There was however some brake fluid coming out next to the nipple. I checked everything and there is no leaks or whatever. What could cause the pedal to be spongy and not hard just after a brake job?
I think this is the best MB W212 brake replacement video on RUclips. Thanks a lot, it helped me! =)
Jel ovo video zamjena običnih diskova za amg diskove i klješta,? I da li to odgovara?
Looks good and pretty much the same as for W211. If sliding pins/bolts won't open, don't break the head (torx in W211). Open the 18 mm bolts, separate the sliding part and take the pins out in a vice with aluminiun etc. jaws. In W211 with SBC, before removing brakes, when ignition is off, remove the SBC unit connector in the engine bay and after repair, put it back and pump the brake during first start to help the SBC to make contact with pads. No errors this way.
Very good video, all explained with the chat, well done and thanks
Great video, thank you so much! Just finished changing the fronts and backs with no issues other than the rear brake shoes holding the disk on, but as described in your vid was easy to release. Once again, thank you very much, saved me a fortune!
Niiice, really glad it was useful for you and all went smoothlly
Excellent. Thank you for putting this video together for us. 👍
Welcome 👍
un video mejor que mil palabras , muchas gracias desde España
I did this same job and had the brilliant idea to replace the parking brake shoes while I was in there. I did not like that at all, hard as hell and time consuming. Leave those alone if they're working properly lol. Great video!
Those brake shoes don't usually ware out unless driving with the handbrake on all the time. But good to know to avoid messing with them in the future 🤣🤣
You did put a lot of effort in the video and the install I could tell 💯💯💯
Thanks🙏! Trying to keep up with your vid quality 👊
You come a long way bro and soon we hit that 1000 🔥
Great video as I just purchased my first Mercedes-Benz (W212) and I know I'll be doing the brakes in the future. My only tip is to use Kroil or SeaFoam Deep Creep or PB Blaster instead of WD-40. Thanks for the very detailed video.
Thx, and hopefully you enjoy your new w212 it's a great car. Great tip, I had the PB Blaster on standby but the disk came off without much hassle.
Perfect today I got use for this video, first time actually I need make a brake pad change for W212
Not a hard job, should go smoothly for you
Very very good video, thanks a lot for shoving how to do👍
Now i going to do it on my car🤞
Thx, Good luck with your car
Great content!
thx man
great info video, the only thing i would do different is to use a turkey baster and draw out brake fluid from front service reservoir
Merci pour la vidéo Claire et instructif 🙏
Welcome 🫡
Wow ! Thank you for detail video kindly
I had find a message on my car "check break wear"
So, I have to replacement break lining, this video is very helpful ~~
Glad to help
Thank you.
thanks
Great video I have a w207 with almost the exact same caliper setup in front but I keep having an issue with the pad or something sticking after I let off the brake. I notice you did not use any grease or paste behind the pads.. I used this purple stuff called ceramic extreme paste that I have been concerned about the whole time due to its thick (almost gluelike nature). Could the use of brake paste be the cause of my problem? Everyting else has been checked for tightness etc. Also are the caliper carrier bolts required to be at 130ft/lbs? I had them torqued to about 105ft/lbs... would this cause my issue?
That is the cleanest dirt I have seen underneath.
That's how the cars look in a very hot dry desert environment with no rain .
Great job, thank you.
Thx man ✌
As i know the rear sliding pins should not be greased, because it’s an open kind of pins
great help to me.
Danke gracias
Здравствуйте а можно такие же перфорированные тормозные диски поставить на зад
Мерседес w212 Е200
amazing are this fit in w211 merc des
Здравствуйте, не подскажете каталожный номер задних суппортов ?
Such a fantastic video. It's actually gave me the confidence to do this myself . Whilst doing the parking brake why did you you wind that cog in and back out please .
Thx, Brakes aren't that hard, hardest thing is jacking up the car safely. For the parking brake was showing how to adjust it, usually you wouldn't have to touch it. But sometimes the router could be stuck on the handbrake shoes, and you'll have to retract the hand brake to be able to pull to brake router. But it's always good practice to readjust the handbrake after installing new brakes. Have a separate video on it: ruclips.net/video/9k_fJ9bwKSk/видео.html
The news brake discs are 322?? And the old 295??? Don’t need change the caliper??
Great video, could you share the info where you got the brake disc, pls?
I've added new links for where I got the disks from in the description
Nice video, did you not have the little guide bolt in your jack kit
Thx. No, I don't have the guide bolt
Had mine in the shop, they changed the front discs oand pads, however the "Break/Hold" function is slipping a little bit, and then breaking hard. If I wait a little longer, it starts slipping again. Do you by any change, know what causes this?
I like these kinds of DIY vids 👍🏽, delete all that jaw jabbin 👌🏽 just show the work!!!
Excellent work. Am looking to replace my front disk stock rotor with drilled and slotted performance disk rotor. Can you suggest which one to buy or share a link please my car is e220 cdi 2012. Thank you
Thx . I have listed the MB part numbers for my car and replacement parts I used in the vid description. But be careful, MB installed different brakes on the E-classes, so the part numbers for my car might not be the same as your car.
@@ZakiGarage jazakallah khair
Great vid and content. What's your experience with the Zimmermann rotors compared to original Mercedes disc? Any vibration while braking from higher speeds? I'm about to replace the front brakes on my e350 but I'm concerned about non OEM discs.
Thx, I had many emergency hard braking from high speeds with the new rotors and they have been great so far, nether the old OEM or the Zimmermann had any vibrations. Its my first time running Zimmermann but all my other cars have aftermarket drilled rotors and still run great. Personally I do prefer the Zimmermann over the OEM ones even if I didn't feel a difference, from what I understand drilled rotors should last longer without wrapping due to better heat dissipation. What made a difference was the bosch pads, they don't make as much brake dust as the OEM ones which i'm really happy with. The new pads do squeak but I think its coz I was too lazy an didn't put brake grease on all the pads.
If I can chime in, I have a 2010 C300 - W204, which is pretty close to the braking system in the W212. Ever since the pandemic I now work on my car and recently did all 4 rotors and pads. I'm fairly sure the Zimmermann rotors are OE anyway. I always bought rotors and pads at the dealer in the past and had my mechanic install...but now that I do things myself, I bought Pagid rotors (front and rear), fully coated, and I also got Jurid pads. Pagis does OE for Porsche and certain Mercedes, maybe also BMW. I can assure you not only do they stop great but not a single squeak or vibration or anything. I was worried at first but did my research. The Pagid rotors are working really well for me and it's been a few months. For the c-class, they are much cheaper than the OEM/Zimmerman and probably similar cost savings for the e-class. I also did Jurid pads (Jurid and Textar are the OE manufacturers for semi-metallic pads). I don't do ceramic pads...I always use semi-metallic. I prefer to keep the same specs as original (and to me, semi-metallic works a bit better and I'll deal with the dust as usual). Sorry I've heard inconsistent reviews when it comes to Bosch pads, as the author of this video used. Some people say they're great and the other half curse them and wind up doing another brake job in 3 months and waste all that time. Anyway, hope that helps any decision-making when buying rotors/pads for Mercedes. I also use Pentosin Super DOT 4, which is the same as Mercedes' branded DOT 4+ (which is just a marketing term). If you're doing a full brake job, I'd also recommend a brake fluid flush - even if you don't need to bleed your brakes, you'll be able to enjoy and get more out of your brake job with new fluid.
@@AlGolzari Thanks for sharing, love to hear other's experiences with different OE brands, especially brands I've never heard of like the one's you've mentioned. I'll keep them in mind next time I'm shopping for brakes.
@@ZakiGarage Happy to share whatever info I've learned. I'm a big Mercedes guy and this is my 3rd one. Btw, if anyone has a pre-face lift W204 or W212, and get stranded due to a failed ESL motor, I have a video on that. I had that problem 2 years ago and fixed it myself. Big but do-able job. It's called: I Stole $2,000 from the Mercedes-Benz dealer.
شيء جيد ونطلب جمع المحرك والجيران بشكل تفصيل
Hey men, can you tell me what was the Zimmermann part number for the rear please?
All in the vid description ✌🏻
Do you have to release the handbrake before you change the rear discs and pads?
Yes, otherwise you won't be able to remove the rear disks.
I read online saying SBC must be deactivated before working on W212 brake or really bad thing would happen.
MB repair manual didn't specify any such thing for this car. Could be true for other models.
Good explanatory video. Unfortunately, in France, changing its discs for ventilated perforated ones when the car does not have the original sport mode fails the technical control. Original devices mandatory because upgrading the brakes is refused at the new inspection. Shame...
Had no idea France was this strict. But how would they know at the inspection? some w212 models came with perforated discs from factory.
@@ZakiGarage you are right, with a « SPORT » mode included or AMG models.
Is there a video for brakes for W213?
Sorry, I dont have a W213 to make videos on
I have a C207 chassis E coupe with the same wheels & calipers as you. I'm also switching from solid to drilled rotors & was concerned about the 10mm difference in thickness.
Found an MBWorld thread & local dealer who confirmed fitment wasn't an issue as far as thickness, only in diameter & strangely the "sport" drilled are 10mm smaller diameter than solid "non sport".
Interestingly, the pads you have linked in the description note "for sport package", which you don't have. How did you get confirmation on fitment?
Good question, it took me a while to get the right parts for the car since the w212 has so many different brakes.
First what I did and recommend is getting the a quote of the parts from the dealership that includes the part numbers.
So now you can start looking for parts with the same OE numbers.
I got all my parts from autodoc, nice thing about them they show all the OE numbers of any product and dimensions like on the ZIMMERMANN links in the description.
There were no thickness difference in the parts I got, e.g. front disks MB# 000 421 12 12 & ZIMMERMANN# 400.3664.52 are both are 32mm.
I also asked autodoc customer support to check the fitment of my order with my vin number before placing the order.
If you live in the US websites like FCP Euro can check parts fitment with you vin number as well.
@@ZakiGarage thanks for the response. I basically did the same thing & did use FCP since I'm in the US. I also spoke with 2 dealership's local to me. It definitely can be tricky with all of the options.
My curiosity started when FCP mistakenly sent 1 non sport & 1 sport sway bar link once. Sport link bolts right up & dealer confirmed there's no harm in that simple upgrade. Some things can transfer over, but obviously not everything. And of course 4matic or rwd is a biggie.
@@RothBeyondTheGrave Had no idea there was a sport sway bar link, makes me think of upgrading to the sport sway bar
@@ZakiGarage I wanted to cry when I saw the sport & non sport side by side lol. No one in their right mind would want to fit a non sport after seeing them together. I also replaced the sway bar(w/ stock 25mm) since our bushings aren't serviceable on their own like my sister's w203.
I was concerned about maintaining proper geometry among all other components, but a few MB techs told me the sway bar link upgrade is fine. Since so many ppl upgrade the bar itself to a thicker H&R, Eibach, or AMG bar I suppose that's fine too, but have yet to dig into the details.
@@RothBeyondTheGrave you can fit 344mm front rotors if you change your caliper brackets
Thanks for that video.
Are you sure about 180 nm of torque? I head it should only be 115nm for the pad holder with the 18mm bolts.
Good catch, indeed its not 180N.m. Its 34Nm for M8x28 bolts and 29Nm for M8x70 bolts.
@@ZakiGarage I saw a lot of different opinions on the torque levels 🙂
I own a E350 BT 4Matic and it is the same brake on the front. I saw a video from a guy who stated it would be 115nm for the brakepad holder to axle bolts. Another guy in a forum said it should be 130nm. Any advice where I can look it up (except Mercedes WIS..)
@unwokesnake sorry for the miss information. I gave you the torque for the guide pins. I checked again and WIS says its 180Nm. Where to find the info? I would only recommend WIS. Since there are so many models and brake options out there WIS will highlight the right values for your vin.
@@ZakiGarage Too bad that it is difficult to get these infos, because as a normal Mercedes customer, you get no technical information.
Can you do me a favor? Can you check if 180nm also applies to W/S 212 350 Bluetec 4Matic?
Before I hammer the bolt with 180nm, I would like to doublecheck :D
Do we pump the new brakes with the engine on or off?
Don't think engine on or off matters
@@ZakiGarage thanks 👍
A co z regulacją ręcznego hamulca
Have another video for adjusting the handbrake:
ruclips.net/video/9k_fJ9bwKSk/видео.html
2009 c207 E350 coupe 272ps have same brake discs size and brake pads?
Best to check a parts catalog with your vin number or check the parts directly on the car.
@@ZakiGarage So are you satisfied with the products? Does it make noise when braking?
Still have those parts on the car since I made the vid. I'm happy with it but would not use the bosch pads next time. They still make noise often but less brake dust than mb pads. The noise didn't annoy me enough to replace them since I usually drive with windows up, ac on high and loud music so i don't really hear the brake noise . But I think I would replace the pads if I drove more often with the windows down.
Do you have to unplug SBC like in W211?
Did not see any mention of the SBC in the repair documents
@@ZakiGarage yes, but let's say if you open the doors during brake job, system won't start pumping brake caliper's piston out?
@@M.Mantas had no such issues with my car
We wanna see that beauty in a video 12:00
Hopefully soon
Say something
Size disc? Plis
The OE and replacement part numbers can be found in the description
Never spray the disc's they are coated with a protective film and break cleaner is just terrible for the coating on the new break disc's..
I wouldn't worry about the protective film since it will come off after the first drive and use of brakes. Cleaning the disks so no dirt or oil from installation would come on the pads.
@@ZakiGarage does more bad than good but your breaks not mine🤷♂️
Молодца. По фэн-шую. ..