I am so happy to see people notice my hard work and that the full day of cleaning is appreciated. I put a lot of effort and detail behind the scenes in order to film everything nice and clean so people can actualy see what I am doing and hopefully inspire other to work with the same level of detail on their own cars. Thanks again for your massive support🙌🙌🙌
@@TheKeenMechanicThought as an option... I have a 2011 X3/F25 30d, N57, with 251,000 km. Do you think it will help "much" to change the upper tensioner? I think both are hydraulic that means if there is a spring, the spring is "only supportive" in some way. Do you have a short answer to this? Looking forward to next episode! By the way did you observe/notice "much" wear on the teeths of the "built-in sprocket" of the camshaft? The bad thing is when chains are prolonged, they start to "climb" on the teeths.
@@leiflillandt1488 Hi buddy I can recommend to do the entire job at that mileage if you can afford it. If not it will definitely do no harm to install the updated longer upper hydraulic tensioner. As mentioned in the video there was almost no wear at all on all sprockets especially the oil pump sprocket. There was no visible wear on the "built in" camshaft sprocket. Hope this helps🤝🏻
Compared to other videos I’ve seen on these chains, how come you tighten the cam sprocket first and than put in top chain tensioner, other have put in tensioner first and than tightened the cam sprocket.
@@pirateship69 You can do it either way as long as you have the cam and crank locked and make sure to spin the engine several times to check for interference and allow the tension on the chains to be distributed. Hope this helps
I only use the revised BMW genuine sprockets and chains. The chains are made by IWIS. Don't risk using any other parts. Other brands may be ok as well but on this engine it is not worth the risk.🤝🏻 All BMW chains, sprockets, guides, tensioners and a few other bits cost me £660
@@TheKeenMechanic Good to know, thanks 👍. FAI and Febi use Iwis chains (branded Jwis confusingly! I found out last night), same as BMW. Video showing the Febi kit here ruclips.net/video/hLcOBcgpym4/видео.htmlsi=wcW4Io5_4HYZ79C-
@@Assimilator1 Thanks for your comments. I did the same as you and did a very in depth research on this subject. I presented the facts to the owner of the car and the parts choices he had and he chose BMW genuine timing kit and gaskets. Everything else was Febi. You will see it all in my next video before the end of this week🤝🏻
Thats squeaky clean! Period! Dude by the way are you sure you set the timing right? Because when you install the locking tool on the crank shaft you turn the crank shaft off the top dead center..and while the tool was installed you installed the top/cam chain as well without brining the cylinders to top dead center..is that how its done?
Hi buddy, this is the correct timing on N57 N47 has a slightly different position on the crank locking tool and people get confused sometimes. By the way these videos were recorded a few months ago and this car has covered over 5k miles since. Runs like new and fuel consumption is great. Thanks for the compliment, I like it squeaky clean😊
@@TheKeenMechanic oh so this is a N57 didnt reliase it was a 6 cylinder, sorry bud my bad. Im doing the timing chain on a N47 and was scratching my head on how this is done, and it most of the videos does not explain it well, and neither does ISTA. it was very confusing thats why i wanted to ask that question.. anyways figured out how it needs to be done. So thanks for all the videos you guys do. it helps guys like us a lot. keep it up!
I had to change many parts which you will see in the next FULL video and had to was the oily engine too. I would always choose this way as it is much easier for doing the job properly🤝🏻
@@TheKeenMechanic "oily engine", was that a typo? ;), what did you mean? I work in a garage, so I'll be able to use my lift and my car will be right up in the air. So bearing that in mind, and on my car I'll only be changing the chains & tensioners (maybe pulleys and oil pump too), would you still choose to remove the engine? I'm thinking that the gearbox will be much easier (thus quicker) to remove than the engine, unless I'm missing something?
@@Assimilator1 yes, if you have a 2 post lift and you don't need to wash the engine or change sump gasket and valve cover gasket remove the gearbox in that case. Let me know how you get on if you decide to drop the gearbox and do it this way
@@TheKeenMechanic Will do 👍 . Although the valve cover has to come off, doesn't it? Not sure why that's relevant to the engine staying in though? And I think the sump has to come off for the oil pump chain at least? Can't I drop the sump with the engine in?
@@Assimilator1 most valve covers leak so if you need to change it and as sump will have to be dropped you better take the engine out. If you want to drop the sump but leave engine in you will have to drop the subrfame or may be steering rack too. The more I think the more I would advise you to take the engine out
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This was very interesting indeed!
You cleaned it all up very well😊
Excited to see the next video's to come!
I am so happy to see people notice my hard work and that the full day of cleaning is appreciated. I put a lot of effort and detail behind the scenes in order to film everything nice and clean so people can actualy see what I am doing and hopefully inspire other to work with the same level of detail on their own cars. Thanks again for your massive support🙌🙌🙌
@@TheKeenMechanicThought as an option... I have a 2011 X3/F25 30d, N57, with 251,000 km. Do you think it will help "much" to change the upper tensioner? I think both are hydraulic that means if there is a spring, the spring is "only supportive" in some way.
Do you have a short answer to this?
Looking forward to next episode!
By the way did you observe/notice "much" wear on the teeths of the "built-in sprocket" of the camshaft?
The bad thing is when chains are prolonged, they start to "climb" on the teeths.
@@leiflillandt1488 Hi buddy
I can recommend to do the entire job at that mileage if you can afford it. If not it will definitely do no harm to install the updated longer upper hydraulic tensioner. As mentioned in the video there was almost no wear at all on all sprockets especially the oil pump sprocket. There was no visible wear on the "built in" camshaft sprocket. Hope this helps🤝🏻
Compared to other videos I’ve seen on these chains, how come you tighten the cam sprocket first and than put in top chain tensioner, other have put in tensioner first and than tightened the cam sprocket.
@@pirateship69 You can do it either way as long as you have the cam and crank locked and make sure to spin the engine several times to check for interference and allow the tension on the chains to be distributed. Hope this helps
On another question, did you use BMW parts or Febi or FAI bits, I see both old and new chains are stamped Jwis (or is it Iwis?).
I only use the revised BMW genuine sprockets and chains. The chains are made by IWIS. Don't risk using any other parts. Other brands may be ok as well but on this engine it is not worth the risk.🤝🏻
All BMW chains, sprockets, guides, tensioners and a few other bits cost me £660
@@TheKeenMechanic Good to know, thanks 👍. FAI and Febi use Iwis chains (branded Jwis confusingly! I found out last night), same as BMW. Video showing the Febi kit here ruclips.net/video/hLcOBcgpym4/видео.htmlsi=wcW4Io5_4HYZ79C-
@@Assimilator1 Thanks for your comments. I did the same as you and did a very in depth research on this subject. I presented the facts to the owner of the car and the parts choices he had and he chose BMW genuine timing kit and gaskets. Everything else was Febi. You will see it all in my next video before the end of this week🤝🏻
@@TheKeenMechanic cool, I look forward to it 👍
Thats squeaky clean! Period! Dude by the way are you sure you set the timing right? Because when you install the locking tool on the crank shaft you turn the crank shaft off the top dead center..and while the tool was installed you installed the top/cam chain as well without brining the cylinders to top dead center..is that how its done?
Hi buddy, this is the correct timing on N57
N47 has a slightly different position on the crank locking tool and people get confused sometimes. By the way these videos were recorded a few months ago and this car has covered over 5k miles since. Runs like new and fuel consumption is great. Thanks for the compliment, I like it squeaky clean😊
@@TheKeenMechanic oh so this is a N57 didnt reliase it was a 6 cylinder, sorry bud my bad. Im doing the timing chain on a N47 and was scratching my head on how this is done, and it most of the videos does not explain it well, and neither does ISTA. it was very confusing thats why i wanted to ask that question.. anyways figured out how it needs to be done. So thanks for all the videos you guys do. it helps guys like us a lot. keep it up!
@@samithaweeraman1882 Glad you got sorted. Although N57 and N47 are nearly identical there are some small differences. 🤝🏻
Hi, useful video :). I just wondered what made you choose over engine out vs gearbox out? (I'm debating which way to do my e90 330d manual).
I had to change many parts which you will see in the next FULL video and had to was the oily engine too. I would always choose this way as it is much easier for doing the job properly🤝🏻
@@TheKeenMechanic "oily engine", was that a typo? ;), what did you mean? I work in a garage, so I'll be able to use my lift and my car will be right up in the air. So bearing that in mind, and on my car I'll only be changing the chains & tensioners (maybe pulleys and oil pump too), would you still choose to remove the engine?
I'm thinking that the gearbox will be much easier (thus quicker) to remove than the engine, unless I'm missing something?
@@Assimilator1 yes, if you have a 2 post lift and you don't need to wash the engine or change sump gasket and valve cover gasket remove the gearbox in that case. Let me know how you get on if you decide to drop the gearbox and do it this way
@@TheKeenMechanic Will do 👍 .
Although the valve cover has to come off, doesn't it? Not sure why that's relevant to the engine staying in though? And I think the sump has to come off for the oil pump chain at least? Can't I drop the sump with the engine in?
@@Assimilator1 most valve covers leak so if you need to change it and as sump will have to be dropped you better take the engine out. If you want to drop the sump but leave engine in you will have to drop the subrfame or may be steering rack too. The more I think the more I would advise you to take the engine out
Excellent job, where are you located?
Hi
I am based in Northern Ireland
🤝
Thats good, I'm in Dublin
@@kirwanjohn101 Nice one. Thanks for watching and for your message
Thank you for this really well made and informative video. Thank you for explaining everything clearly and even your sources(ista). Really good stuff.
I do this for people like yourself who will appreciate it. Thank you for watching and for your kind message.
Bravo! Un ottimo lavoro.
Grazie
Awesome work mate😊
Thank you. A lot more content to come
@@TheKeenMechanic just keep up the good work!
@@recorobertos 🤝🏻