Thanks for this! I'm working on a similar model and was having some real trouble figuring out what to do in terms of replacing those two big filter caps. The idea of just leaving them in place and subbing in the new ones underneath makes perfect sense, and seems far simpler than fussing with those metal tabs and whatnot.
I am trying to put the same combo into another console. Do you happen to have the pin out information for the power/control cable between them? I need to make one to connect the two. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers Mark
The filter caps that you are speaking of at 12:00 mark, I have a very similar Magnavox Astro-Sonic amp with 3 of those cardboard cap cans. One of the floating caps have what seems like 2 ground lugs, where 2 diodes are connected (one on each lug). I am guessing that they did that for a cleaner job and could have just connected both diodes to the same ground lug. What do you think?
In that day, the tolerance on aluminum electrolytic caps was quite broad. High quality Sprague caps were -80/+75%. Those plastic body caps were much lower quality so, probably had a tolerance of -50/+100%. I even saw failures of those even after just a few years of age, it was common for the case to crack and drip electrolyte. For most manufacturers of those console stereos, the change over from vacuum tube to transistor circuits occurred in 1965/1966. That Magnavox was probably a top of the line model, being solid state and it even has the FM multiplexer; an expensive option then that most console stereos didn't have in 1964 (when your Magnavox wasmanufactured). Everyone designed with germanium in that day and with the low temperature rating, those transistor can undefuse and return to sand just sitting on the shelf, not even being used.
Hahaha. I like that. Dirty cap tester. Pretty simple. You just have test leads in series with the speaker. Doesn’t matter + or -. You’re basically feeing the amp speaker output through the capacitor you want to test.
@@mechtrician1 You should have explained that at the beginning of the video. You left a lot up in the air regarding your comment about "nothing changed".
Thanks for this! I'm working on a similar model and was having some real trouble figuring out what to do in terms of replacing those two big filter caps. The idea of just leaving them in place and subbing in the new ones underneath makes perfect sense, and seems far simpler than fussing with those metal tabs and whatnot.
I am trying to put the same combo into another console. Do you happen to have the pin out information for the power/control cable between them? I need to make one to connect the two. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers Mark
I really appreciate your work. I have a few of these I would like to refurbish and knowing that it's actually doable gives me a little hope. Cheers.
The filter caps that you are speaking of at 12:00 mark, I have a very similar Magnavox Astro-Sonic amp with 3 of those cardboard cap cans. One of the floating caps have what seems like 2 ground lugs, where 2 diodes are connected (one on each lug). I am guessing that they did that for a cleaner job and could have just connected both diodes to the same ground lug. What do you think?
In that day, the tolerance on aluminum electrolytic caps was quite broad. High quality Sprague caps were -80/+75%. Those plastic body caps were much lower quality so, probably had a tolerance of -50/+100%. I even saw failures of those even after just a few years of age, it was common for the case to crack and drip electrolyte.
For most manufacturers of those console stereos, the change over from vacuum tube to transistor circuits occurred in 1965/1966. That Magnavox was probably a top of the line model, being solid state and it even has the FM multiplexer; an expensive option then that most console stereos didn't have in 1964 (when your Magnavox wasmanufactured).
Everyone designed with germanium in that day and with the low temperature rating, those transistor can undefuse and return to sand just sitting on the shelf, not even being used.
I NEVER bulk re-caps i figure if it's not broke don't fix it
i have a reciver very similar to that one but cant find where the power and audio connections are for the record player
i got a bunch of Archer capacitors on ebay they made it sound much better than the originals
Could you show how u wired in the new filter caps? Or a pic? I’m confused on the +and- connection. Thanks.
I don’t have any pictures of it. But I show it in the video. The negatives of the caps go to the chassis unless I stated otherwise.
are you referring to Jordan Pier? you already mentioned Shango
Damn no part two. Just got one of these and was itching to see it together
There is a part 2.
Can you walk me through the set up fof Shagoo's dirty capacitor tester? TIA 😀
Hahaha. I like that. Dirty cap tester.
Pretty simple. You just have test leads in series with the speaker. Doesn’t matter + or -. You’re basically feeing the amp speaker output through the capacitor you want to test.
I used 56mfd caps in mine and they sounded fine
i think the shiny caps [stereo fm board] are polystyrene
are you familiar with Allied?
are those resistors 1/2 watt or 1 watt? they look quite big
I’d have to go look at the SAMs but probably 1w at least.
Where did you find the schematics?
Sams Technical Publishing. They have just about every schematic from post WW2 through the 90s for all electronics.
resistors are another thing that should be checked and replaced if out of tolerance
it DOES sound good now🙂
1964 MODEL RECORD CHANGER
that looks more like a 1965 or '66 model
more like 1965 or'66
Date stamps are all mid 1964, and I happen to know it was purchased in 1964. It belonged to my grandparents.
@@mechtrician1 You should have explained that at the beginning of the video. You left a lot up in the air regarding your comment about "nothing changed".