Be sure to check out our blog post on this video for any more specifics and let us know if you have any questions! schoandjo.com/how-we-do-our-boat-engine-maintenance/
Nice work on the maintenance! If you get a chance look into Fram filters, look for cutaways of a Fram vs a Wix or Napa gold filter. I was shocked!! Your engines will thank you.😜
l've got a FL 120 (non turbo) diesel on my CHB Trawler, and never had a problem with it until I broke my leg at age 71, with osteoporosis and couldn't get aboard for about a year. I had an 85 y/o otherwise healthy friend come aboard and watch everything, but he wasn't cognizant of the fuel filter possibilities. Finally (after a few months) got everything going fine again after he got down into the engine room (with difficulty for an 85 y/o guy) and he changed the Racors. The secondarys are still fine. And I might get back aboard in a few months.
I had a Volvo 3.5 kw generator when I bought the boat, but the gen crapped out abt 2 y/ago, and I had the whole gen and volvo taken out, and replaced with solar. Wish I had the gen back and am still looking for, although so far I'm getting thru OK with solar (CA Delta). But occasionally I wish I had more generator power.
If you guys have any trouble on this next leg of the Loop, it won't be due to lack of preparation. Great video. It is pretty amazing the zinc dissolved that quickly.
Good video. You also need to change the oil in the injection pumps Whenever you change your engine oil . Actually according to the owner's manual you're supposed to do it every 50 hours . Good luck on the loop!
When you're crawling around doing maintenance check hoses and wires for chaff. If you have replaced any hoses within 6 months check the tightness of the hose clamps, hoses compress over time. You may find clamps may need 1/2 turn to tighten them back up. Engine looks pretty clean, good job on that.
Sweet, thanks for the tips, Jan. Makes a lot of sense to just check before anything comes loose.... I'm working on cleaning up the engine, bit by bit I'm trying to make it pristine. Thanks!
Nice work. Change the oil in the Simms injection pump, being careful not to strip the drain plug, the pump body is aluminum. Using the dipstick on a Lehman leaves 2 quarts in the engine. Have American Diesel sell you an extension tube for the oil drain plug. Some people love the screw on adapter for the secondaries. I run 10 micron on the primary, 2 on the secondary. Have fun!
Well, it may be later than we had hoped to get on the loop. Our sea trial (Tenn. River) did not go as well as expected. One engine said goodbye before we were done with the survey. Fortunately we had another that took us home. I’m glad that I didn’t have to call the owner. We’ll keep in touch and enjoy your trip. Be safe. Thanks. D.
Many old school diesel mechanics fill the new filters with automatic transmission fluid available in quarts from most auto parts stores and Walmart. Auto transmission oil is a very light thin oil much like diesel fuel and is much safer to use than some container of diesel fuel that might have trash in it. The auto transmission fluid will lubricate the injectors on start up but will smoke a bit more until the diesel fuel gets pumped thru the filters.
If you haven’t pulled the cover of your heat exchanger….always a good idea just to make sure you don’t have calcium buildup. Calcium from sea life growth will plug them.
Oil changes: I use full synthetic in my 12.7 Detroit in my semi. I also use a centrifuge bypass filter system. I change the spin on filters and centrifuge cartridge every 50,000 miles (770 hours). I went nearly 6,000 hours (360,000 miles) on the same oil, with almost no bearing wear. Oil analysis is needed to make sure the chemistry is good, and there are no contaminants, like coolant or fuel. Saves me almost $3k/year in maintenance.
@@SchoandJo You can buy an oil sample kit online, I'm sure. You mail it off and they send you the results. You only send in a small amount the size of a pill bottle. I can get mine done at major truck stops the same way. A marina shop might be able to help you find an engine shop nearby that will help you out.
Thanks for sharing! I speak from experience when I say I can absolutely get multiple seasons out of the secondary fuel filters. But I might just get very clean fuel, and I am not doing the Grand Loop every season:) but probably run through 3-4 hundred gallons a year. The Raycor does a superb job. I've cut open my secondary filters after the second season and they were still clean (and then you don't have to go through priming the fuel system every time). My parents are lifelong boaters and have several friends with the lehmans in their trawlers and they all share the same sentiment... or sediment...
Good job on the maintenance , easy to keep up but also easy to get behind on it. My only comment is drop that adjustable wrench over the side and use a good set of wrenches your bolt heads will thank you. When are you shoving off on Great Loop round two?
@@SchoandJo someone mentioned the coils. And you did the zines I was thinking of . Those engines will run hot at low rpm when the cooling system gets gunned up
I have a Lehman 120 on my Grand Banks. Part of my cooling system maintenance “program” is to core my heat exchanger. The small coils often get gunked up pretty good. I remove the end caps (always remembering to shutoff the thru-hull) and insert a wooden dowel into each coil. Because of blocked areas you might have to go from the other side to get all coils. Careful insert the dowel and work it in and out a few times. Careful is the operative word. They can break. Push and pull against the coil ends. I think it is a 3/32” dowel cut to about the length of the exchanger.
Sweet Douglas thanks for the tip! Is there any symptom that tells you your heat exchanger is nearing time to be cleaned? We just had to replace our transmission oil cooler a couple months ago so it might be nice to do some preventative maintenance here to hopefully extend its life!
When your zinc deteriorates the material often time finds itself in the exchanger coils because of the pencil’s close proximity to them. You put a lot of hours on Pivot unlike my boat. I generally core twice a year. But that is the result of doing it more frequently than that. My advice would be to remove the caps and take a look, establish a “baseline” and establish a plan or schedule. Coring is a lot cheaper than soaking or ultrasonic cleaning. And, you can do it quickly (1/2 hour?) and anywhere.
We will be buying a boat up in Alexandria Bay and heading to NYC next summer. Been watching your videos and enjoying them. In your engine room: get some socket wrenches instead of using an adjustable. get some absorbent pads (I use pads from New Pig) to use for maintenance and have them under the engine. Get yourself some nitrile gloves too for work. Keep it up!
Also helps tp put some grease on the impeller gaskets. If you need to remove the plate it makes it easy to remove the gasket without tearing in case you need to reuse the gasket.
Invest in a dual primary fuel system that are in parallel. That way if one filter clogs you can just switch to the second and change the clogged one at your leisure . Another trick I learned is use the same particular sized filter as the secondary. That way the secondary filter will rarely ever be clogged. I like a vacuum oil suction tank made by Tempest. Rotella oil easily found at Walmart we have found the cheapest good oil.
Great tips! Actually our generator filter can be used instead of our engine one in a pinch, we have 2 valves to switch the fuel directions to the other.. haven't tested it though!
The zink anode can leave deposits in your heat Exchanger blocking tube fins , i take the end off the heat exchanger and clean , you can rod out but use copper rod , a dip Chemical clean as bitter just be aware it takes a while to build up but does happen with these old girls, my ford super-major 60 Is a awesome boat engine, these old tractor engines love working hard
That "gunk" in your fuel filter, could be the lining of your fuel lines. Diesel deteriorates them over time. I had that happen in my big truck. Messes up check valves and such.
Do yourselves a big favor and buy a supply of engine diapers. They absorb oil and fuel and are much easier to dispose of rather than liquids. We keep a couple laid out under the engine, which can really help identify any new leaks, and we use one on deck while filling the diesel.
I like the idea of keeping one out to see if there is a leak! We have a bunch on board for filling diesel and the like - I am a little bit selective when I bring them out though just to save them for when they are really needed... thanks Deb!
Great video and content, but please review which oil filter to use!!! Study after study show that the Fram filter media clogs quickly which activate their bypass spring prematurely, which keeps them from filtering.
I am sure you probably have been told this but I didn't see it. For your Lehmann there is a fuel filter conversion kit available so you can use regular screw on filters which makes the job much much easier. Not positive but I believe it cost some where around 200 dollars. Good luck, great video!!
They make a spin on cartridge conversion kit for those motors... you should get it.. about $300 and then you can use spin on filters and not have to deal with the cartridges any longer
Hey, look at the bottom of page 20 of the Lehman operators manual, everyone forgets to change the oil in your simms fuel injector pump, it’s something everyone misses, it’s change interval is 50 hours.
This Lehman Super 135 has the oil integrated with the main engine oil so no need to do the injector pumps like the 80 and 120. One of the few nice changes that Lehman did!
Nice work, boat should be ready to go! Have you investigated the best oil filters for your engines? Fram may be letting more stuff through than a filter like Wix.
Nope haven't thought about what oil filter is better! I'll give Wix a shot once I run out of Fram and see how the oil looks. Thanks for the recommendation!
Fortunately on this model, Lehman figured it out, and the injectors are now part of the overall oil system. No need to do the separate change! Thanks for the heads up though!
Make yourself a fuel polishing system that can transfer and scrub fuel. You will like enjoy yourself also. For your racor you should be using a 10micron and the primary should be 2.
It would have been useful - perhaps in a later video? - to cover your thinking about the kinds and quantity of engine spares you will be carrying. Not everywhere on the Loop will you find the brands and part #s you will need. And you did save those two impellers, right? Just in case you chew one up unexpectedly and without new ones being available.
Good idea, we'll definitely make a video on that eventually! Speaking of spares, I saved the westerbeke because I only have a couple old ones (I need to buy a few) but for our Lehman I have about 5 brand new impellers so I tossed the old one. Cheers!
Thanks for making the videos, i have a 4 cylinder version of that Ford Dseries . I have a question, Where do you get from Engine rpm reading from ? Are you reading alternator pluses, or is there a mechanical take-off somewhere ?
I kept the Generator's impeller but I have plenty of new spares for the main engine. There were some small cracks too (probably from when I pulled it out) so I tossed it. Thanks for watching!
Hi Carl, I don't remember what we linked here, what are you looking for? You also may be able to find it by searching it at the bottom of the home page.
Hi Guys. Do you have a bio-filter in your fuel line? If not, it's good idea to fit one, just saying. Love your channel, you will both learn lot on your travels. best wishes to from OZ
Preheat is just to warm the combustion Chambers so the fire it has absolutely nothing to do with bleeding the fuel system if you're going to bleed the system that way just crack it over that's all you need to do
That might be the case for other engines! But for this Westerbeke genny, the pre-heat does bleed it (along with other functions) 😁 You can see the fuel getting pumped in the vid and I presume air is somehow released too... It's all in the manual so thats what we are going off of - cheers!
I am watchinğ you from Turkey beautiful videos I have a guestıon for you I have 2 battery my 27 feet motoryacht 300 w for solar panel is it be enough the start the engine 175 w each battery 2 makes 350 Thanks good luck safe sailing
Awesome, thanks for saying hi Ozcan! Thats a good question... I don't know much about starter batteries but I think what they need are "CCA" or cold cranking amps and that is used to start the engine. 300 or 350 W of solar would be a good amount depending on your draw, like your fridge etc. Normally your starter batteries are kept topped up by your engine alternator and run fine without solar. The solar would normally charge your house bank. Hopefully that makes sense! Let me know if you have any other questions!
It really sucks doing filter maintenance! So messy, so stinky! There are other filter styles that are easier to work with. Such as stanydine square filters. But, the cost to change over must be considered. Also, availability hen in other countries.
Please tell me you're going to refinish your exterior teak trim before you do the loop again. I can't stand seeing that dried out faded teak on an otherwise great-looking boat.
Be sure to check out our blog post on this video for any more specifics and let us know if you have any questions!
schoandjo.com/how-we-do-our-boat-engine-maintenance/
Nice work on the maintenance!
If you get a chance look into Fram filters, look for cutaways of a Fram vs a Wix or Napa gold filter.
I was shocked!!
Your engines will thank you.😜
Good to know, thanks for sharing!! Will have to switch it up in future changes 😁
I would never use Fram
l've got a FL 120 (non turbo) diesel on my CHB Trawler, and never had a problem with it until I broke my leg at age 71, with osteoporosis and couldn't get aboard for about a year. I had an 85 y/o otherwise healthy friend come aboard and watch everything, but he wasn't cognizant of the fuel filter possibilities. Finally (after a few months) got everything going fine again after he got down into the engine room (with difficulty for an 85 y/o guy) and he changed the Racors. The secondarys are still fine. And I might get back aboard in a few months.
I had a Volvo 3.5 kw generator when I bought the boat, but the gen crapped out abt 2 y/ago, and I had the whole gen and volvo taken out, and replaced with solar. Wish I had the gen back and am still looking for, although so far I'm getting thru OK with solar (CA Delta). But occasionally I wish I had more generator power.
I agree with the comment about using the Fram oil filters. NAPA Gold is what I use on my SeaRay.
Been using Wix and its been doing a good job so far!
Good job.i am a rookie trawler owner myself and your videos have helped. It's a chore learning these big boys but fun. Be safe
It is a lot of work but very rewarding! Good luck on yours John!
If you guys have any trouble on this next leg of the Loop, it won't be due to lack of preparation. Great video. It is pretty amazing the zinc dissolved that quickly.
Thanks so much for watching Russ!
Finally had a minute to sit down and check out your channel!!! Serious engine room space envy happening over here!!!!
Oh cool! Thanks so much for watching y’all! Haha, room is not something we take for granted…
Good video. You also need to change the oil in the injection pumps Whenever you change your engine oil . Actually according to the owner's manual you're supposed to do it every 50 hours . Good luck on the loop!
Thanks John! The injection pumps were added to the main system in the 135 unlike the 120 so no longer required! Thank goodness 😁
When you're crawling around doing maintenance check hoses and wires for chaff. If you have replaced any hoses within 6 months check the tightness of the hose clamps, hoses compress over time. You may find clamps may need 1/2 turn to tighten them back up. Engine looks pretty clean, good job on that.
Sweet, thanks for the tips, Jan. Makes a lot of sense to just check before anything comes loose.... I'm working on cleaning up the engine, bit by bit I'm trying to make it pristine. Thanks!
Very informative video. You have learned a lot in the past year. Ollie was overseeing your work.
Ollie is the best supervisor :)
Nice work. Change the oil in the Simms injection pump, being careful not to strip the drain plug, the pump body is aluminum. Using the dipstick on a Lehman leaves 2 quarts in the engine. Have American Diesel sell you an extension tube for the oil drain plug. Some people love the screw on adapter for the secondaries. I run 10 micron on the primary, 2 on the secondary. Have fun!
Cool - thanks for sharing Alan! Definitely considering some upgrades and quality of life enhancements to the Lehman so we will see 🤙
Well, it may be later than we had hoped to get on the loop. Our sea trial (Tenn. River) did not go as well as expected. One engine said goodbye before we were done with the survey. Fortunately we had another that took us home. I’m glad that I didn’t have to call the owner. We’ll keep in touch and enjoy your trip. Be safe.
Thanks. D.
Wow… I’m just glad you found that out during the trial and not the maiden voyage! Best of luck!
@@SchoandJo keep us in your prayers and keep up the good work. Thanks. D.
I’m impressed!!! That is a great video!!! Thanks for doing it. Good luck on the Great Loop and have a blessed Trip!!
Thanks for watching Larry!
Many old school diesel mechanics fill the new filters with automatic transmission fluid available in quarts from most auto parts stores and Walmart. Auto transmission oil is a very light thin oil much like diesel fuel and is much safer to use than some container of diesel fuel that might have trash in it. The auto transmission fluid will lubricate the injectors on start up but will smoke a bit more until the diesel fuel gets pumped thru the filters.
Interesting tidbit - thanks for sharing!
If you haven’t pulled the cover of your heat exchanger….always a good idea just to make sure you don’t have calcium buildup. Calcium from sea life growth will plug them.
Hmm good idea... I've never done that maybe at a dock in the next few weeks I'll dive in. Thanks for the tip Sean!
Great point. It will run hot at low rpm when they start clogging up
ready to go again and peace of mind. Enjoy
Oil changes: I use full synthetic in my 12.7 Detroit in my semi. I also use a centrifuge bypass filter system. I change the spin on filters and centrifuge cartridge every 50,000 miles (770 hours). I went nearly 6,000 hours (360,000 miles) on the same oil, with almost no bearing wear.
Oil analysis is needed to make sure the chemistry is good, and there are no contaminants, like coolant or fuel. Saves me almost $3k/year in maintenance.
Oh cool! Sounds like you've really dialed it in... any tips for getting Oil analysis done? Do you take it to a shop?
@@SchoandJo
You can buy an oil sample kit online, I'm sure. You mail it off and they send you the results. You only send in a small amount the size of a pill bottle. I can get mine done at major truck stops the same way.
A marina shop might be able to help you find an engine shop nearby that will help you out.
@@timgreen4137 Sweet thanks Tim!
Impressive. Great job staying ahead of it. Diesels run forever. You had a great assistant. Best!
The best assistant! Thanks for watching Ed!
Thanks for sharing! I speak from experience when I say I can absolutely get multiple seasons out of the secondary fuel filters. But I might just get very clean fuel, and I am not doing the Grand Loop every season:) but probably run through 3-4 hundred gallons a year. The Raycor does a superb job. I've cut open my secondary filters after the second season and they were still clean (and then you don't have to go through priming the fuel system every time). My parents are lifelong boaters and have several friends with the lehmans in their trawlers and they all share the same sentiment... or sediment...
I am glad to see you guys back. I was afraid you were gone for good. Stay with it and I will be with you from the Mississippi Coast.
Thanks for sticking with us!
Good job on the maintenance , easy to keep up but also easy to get behind on it. My only comment is drop that adjustable wrench over the side and use a good set of wrenches your bolt heads will thank you. When are you shoving off on Great Loop round two?
Thanks James! We just kicked off Loop round 2 late last week, going to be posting the videos soon!
Especially interesting video! Must be a really hot job in Florida, even in the winter.
Great video! Thanks!
Thank you for watching!
The ford Lehman engines are great to work on
You got a great boat . A niebor at the marina did the loop in a gypsy.
Thanks Walter! I think I did replace those zincs in this video - or are there other zincs I should take a look into? Cheers!
@@SchoandJo someone mentioned the coils. And you did the zines I was thinking of . Those engines will run hot at low rpm when the cooling system gets gunned up
@@SchoandJo I got a Lehman 120 in my America marine
@@walterdavis4808 Sweet! Thanks for the info Walter! Cheers!
Awesome job
I have a Lehman 120 on my Grand Banks. Part of my cooling system maintenance “program” is to core my heat exchanger. The small coils often get gunked up pretty good. I remove the end caps (always remembering to shutoff the thru-hull) and insert a wooden dowel into each coil. Because of blocked areas you might have to go from the other side to get all coils. Careful insert the dowel and work it in and out a few times. Careful is the operative word. They can break. Push and pull against the coil ends. I think it is a 3/32” dowel cut to about the length of the exchanger.
Sweet Douglas thanks for the tip! Is there any symptom that tells you your heat exchanger is nearing time to be cleaned? We just had to replace our transmission oil cooler a couple months ago so it might be nice to do some preventative maintenance here to hopefully extend its life!
When your zinc deteriorates the material often time finds itself in the exchanger coils because of the pencil’s close proximity to them. You put a lot of hours on Pivot unlike my boat. I generally core twice a year. But that is the result of doing it more frequently than that. My advice would be to remove the caps and take a look, establish a “baseline” and establish a plan or schedule. Coring is a lot cheaper than soaking or ultrasonic cleaning. And, you can do it quickly (1/2 hour?) and anywhere.
We will be buying a boat up in Alexandria Bay and heading to NYC next summer. Been watching your videos and enjoying them. In your engine room: get some socket wrenches instead of using an adjustable. get some absorbent pads (I use pads from New Pig) to use for maintenance and have them under the engine. Get yourself some nitrile gloves too for work. Keep it up!
Also helps tp put some grease on the impeller gaskets. If you need to remove the plate it makes it easy to remove the gasket without tearing in case you need to reuse the gasket.
Thanks so much! Cheers!
Well done explanations
Thanks Frederick!
Invest in a dual primary fuel system that are in parallel. That way if one filter clogs you can just switch to the second and change the clogged one at your leisure . Another trick I learned is use the same particular sized filter as the secondary. That way the secondary filter will rarely ever be clogged. I like a vacuum oil suction tank made by Tempest. Rotella oil easily found at Walmart we have found the cheapest good oil.
Great tips! Actually our generator filter can be used instead of our engine one in a pinch, we have 2 valves to switch the fuel directions to the other.. haven't tested it though!
The zink anode can leave deposits in your heat Exchanger blocking tube fins , i take the end off the heat exchanger and clean , you can rod out but use copper rod , a dip Chemical clean as bitter just be aware it takes a while to build up but does happen with these old girls, my ford super-major 60 Is a awesome boat engine, these old tractor engines love working hard
Thanks John! I'll have to take a look at our Heat Exchanger and do a service. Thanks!
Great informative video..
Thanks Luke!
That "gunk" in your fuel filter, could be the lining of your fuel lines. Diesel deteriorates them over time. I had that happen in my big truck. Messes up check valves and such.
Thanks for the tip Tim!
Do yourselves a big favor and buy a supply of engine diapers. They absorb oil and fuel and are much easier to dispose of rather than liquids. We keep a couple laid out under the engine, which can really help identify any new leaks, and we use one on deck while filling the diesel.
I like the idea of keeping one out to see if there is a leak! We have a bunch on board for filling diesel and the like - I am a little bit selective when I bring them out though just to save them for when they are really needed... thanks Deb!
SIMPLE things I've done every time I change cartridge filter is to WRITE WITH Date and Running hours so keep track on it
For sure! It makes "future you" happy, when you are wondering when you did it last haha
Great video
Thanks for watching!
Great video and content, but please review which oil filter to use!!! Study after study show that the Fram filter media clogs quickly which activate their bypass spring prematurely, which keeps them from filtering.
Oh very interesting, I've never heard this. Thanks for sharing!
I am sure you probably have been told this but I didn't see it. For your Lehmann there is a fuel filter conversion kit available so you can use regular screw on filters which makes the job much much easier. Not positive but I believe it cost some where around 200 dollars. Good luck, great video!!
Good point! Thanks!
They make a spin on cartridge conversion kit for those motors... you should get it.. about $300 and then you can use spin on filters and not have to deal with the cartridges any longer
Hey, look at the bottom of page 20 of the Lehman operators manual, everyone forgets to change the oil in your simms fuel injector pump, it’s something everyone misses, it’s change interval is 50 hours.
This Lehman Super 135 has the oil integrated with the main engine oil so no need to do the injector pumps like the 80 and 120. One of the few nice changes that Lehman did!
@@SchoandJo that’s good to know.
Nice work, boat should be ready to go! Have you investigated the best oil filters for your engines? Fram may be letting more stuff through than a filter like Wix.
Nope haven't thought about what oil filter is better! I'll give Wix a shot once I run out of Fram and see how the oil looks. Thanks for the recommendation!
Take a look at Project Farm’s video on oil filters. He’s very informative.
Don't forget about changing the oil in the injection pump.
Fortunately on this model, Lehman figured it out, and the injectors are now part of the overall oil system. No need to do the separate change! Thanks for the heads up though!
Make yourself a fuel polishing system that can transfer and scrub fuel. You will like enjoy yourself also. For your racor you should be using a 10micron and the primary should be 2.
Get rid of the secondary filter & put another racor in place of it
👍
Change oil in fuel injector pump its about half qt of 30 weight
Not on this engine, thats the Lehman 120.
It would have been useful - perhaps in a later video? - to cover your thinking about the kinds and quantity of engine spares you will be carrying. Not everywhere on the Loop will you find the brands and part #s you will need. And you did save those two impellers, right? Just in case you chew one up unexpectedly and without new ones being available.
Good idea, we'll definitely make a video on that eventually! Speaking of spares, I saved the westerbeke because I only have a couple old ones (I need to buy a few) but for our Lehman I have about 5 brand new impellers so I tossed the old one. Cheers!
Thanks for making the videos, i have a 4 cylinder version of that Ford Dseries . I have a question, Where do you get from Engine rpm reading from ?
Are you reading alternator pluses, or is there a mechanical take-off somewhere ?
Thanks for watching! We get our RPM reading from our alternator.
Nice job. Those impellers looked pretty good, will you keep them for spares?
I kept the Generator's impeller but I have plenty of new spares for the main engine. There were some small cracks too (probably from when I pulled it out) so I tossed it. Thanks for watching!
@@SchoandJo I think it's great that you are doing your own work. It will give you confidence in your boat going forward.
I love how you could track Elliot’s progress by how dirty his shirt got as he went 😂
Haha!
Elliot - can’t find the spreadsheet on the blog. Got a link?
Hi Carl, I don't remember what we linked here, what are you looking for? You also may be able to find it by searching it at the bottom of the home page.
So good to see a proper raw water pump on the Ford rather than the useless long style that Lehman used on the 120's.
It is definitely nice to have the updated version!
Save the old propeller, s they are good for back ups
Definitely!
Hi Guys. Do you have a bio-filter in your fuel line? If not, it's good idea to fit one, just saying. Love your channel, you will both learn lot on your travels. best wishes to from OZ
We don't have one! I tried to google one but couldn't find one, do you have a link to what you suggest? Thanks for the recommendation Noel!
Get rid of the Fram oil filter go with nappa gold
👍
Preheat is just to warm the combustion Chambers so the fire it has absolutely nothing to do with bleeding the fuel system if you're going to bleed the system that way just crack it over that's all you need to do
That might be the case for other engines! But for this Westerbeke genny, the pre-heat does bleed it (along with other functions) 😁 You can see the fuel getting pumped in the vid and I presume air is somehow released too... It's all in the manual so thats what we are going off of - cheers!
@@SchoandJo ah ah so it is more than just preheat
@@chrisfiat Yeah, probably just poor naming on Westerbekes end 😁
The black chunk in your filter looked a piece of pump impeller or something
My guess is that it is build up from our old fuel tanks… but since it doesn’t / hasn’t clogged our filters I’ll just clean it out each service 😁
@@SchoandJo ah makes sense
How many MPG do you get with a single screw
I think we got around 3-4 MPG at cruising speed
I am watchinğ you from Turkey beautiful videos I have a guestıon for you I have 2 battery my 27 feet motoryacht 300 w for solar panel is it be enough the start the engine 175 w each battery 2 makes 350 Thanks good luck safe sailing
Awesome, thanks for saying hi Ozcan! Thats a good question... I don't know much about starter batteries but I think what they need are "CCA" or cold cranking amps and that is used to start the engine. 300 or 350 W of solar would be a good amount depending on your draw, like your fridge etc. Normally your starter batteries are kept topped up by your engine alternator and run fine without solar. The solar would normally charge your house bank. Hopefully that makes sense! Let me know if you have any other questions!
Thanks for your help Greeting from Fethiye Turkey Good luck both of you Your adventure Do it When you young
Safe sailing
@@ozcanucal7062 Wow Fethiye looks stunning! Thanks!
The main engine is fresh water cooled correct? Our old boat was raw water cooled this was in the early 80’s lol what a horrible set up that was
We have a freshwater cooling as well as a raw water cooling system for our main engine 😁
It really sucks doing filter maintenance! So messy, so stinky! There are other filter styles that are easier to work with. Such as stanydine square filters. But, the cost to change over must be considered. Also, availability hen in other countries.
True... there's always a trade off!
Get a spare starter, waterpump& alternator
👍
I don’t think your safety shoes are up to code. A least you have a good helper with you. Great job!
I don't think they are either 😂 My helper (aka Supervisor Ollie) should have laid down the law
Priming and Bleeding are not the same
👍
Please tell me you're going to refinish your exterior teak trim before you do the loop again. I can't stand seeing that dried out faded teak on an otherwise great-looking boat.
We are doing a half varnished / half natural approach. This year we are going to balance traveling with removing the varnish around the boat.
It was great until the music came on….
Then it became even more great!