Rifle Light Basics - A SWAT officer's perspective
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- Опубликовано: 23 янв 2024
- In this video I cover the basics of rifle lights. This video is oriented towards the tactical light novice who is looking to purchase his first light or just needs some surface level advice on how to mount it. I understand that some people in tactical circle are VERY passionate about lights and like to argue about lumens vs candela, etc. This video is not for you.
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Another video to bookmark and take notes from; thank you!
Solid video. Thanks, bro.
Another Great video, Rob!
I remember a video where they compared a bunch of surefires and streamlights and others in the dark.
The streamlight protac rail mount 2 is the one you want. It basically dollar for dollar was the most value. Beat out some surefires at much less cost.
To be clear, the one in this video is different. The rail mount 2 is 600 lumens
I recommend the Arisaka 45 degree mount for mlok. It will get your flashlight as close as possible. Not the inline one
Thanks guy!
Could we get an educational video regarding the best practices when it comes to using the light in an operation? Stuff like light discipline etc.
Yep. Short version is that managing darkness is more important than managing light.
Good Day to you Sir i appreciate your informative video learning a great deal from your experience just a heads up im going to purchase very shortly a QD sling to support yourself and i know its Quality Thank you God Bless talk real soon...🙏🤙🤙
Thank you sir.
Maybe worth mentioning that if you mount a flood light on the 2 o'clock - you gonna have a big blind spot on the 9 o'clock.. perhaps this is the advantage of mount it on the 6 o'clock - so to direct the blind spot upwards, where you least expected to have a threat..(?)
I have never noticed a blind spot from my light placement. Gear is very personal and I have found this placement works best for me. I have used the 6 o'clock position in the past and I found it got in the way quite a bit when I was bracing on barricades.
@@DaishoTactical
I mean the shadow that the barrel cast on the other side of the flashlight..
If it's a flood - than everything is light up except this shadow, that keeps your left side dark..
Yeah maybe not a big deal, but it's something to consider, the deeper you mount the light the more big of a shadow the barrel makes on the opposite side
Hi, if you do a follow up video on this topic, you could talk about what you think of the position of the light on the gun in relation to the muzzle, or how much forward should a light be placed in general on larger guns, on shorter guns (you did only adress "clock-positions", not the other dimension). And the same for the button pad. And what about people who don't trust button pads (one thing more that possibly could break) and want only a light: what positions now and why)?
It's a lot of personal preference but I can rack out a quick video on that.
The switch on the tail cap can fail just like the tape switch. The light would go on the opposite side(as pictured for a right hander) to hit the switch with your thumb. You don’t want the light extending past your muzzle and not too far back because that will cast a shadow. Use chapstick on the lens during practice to make cleaning the lens afterwards easier.
^^^ Yeah, basically everything he said. I use Windex (or oddly enough spit) to clean the carbon off the lens.
Would there be a potential risk of handguard warping with the flash hider barely clears the handguard? I know it's not a brake so it probably would not split the handguard in half.
No that is not an issue. Some people can injure their finger if it gets too close to the flash hider, but the rail is fine.
No arguments from me.
Everything breaks, Toyotas, aimpoints, surefire…etc, the higher end kit doesn’t break as easily or often.
The lights that generally fail my students the most, Olight.
I’ve used the cloud defensive for cable mgt and the arisaka mount with great results.