This series is very well put together. I particularly like the birds-eye view with zoom in/out to capture what is important. Also the side-view transition to the press. Thank you for the time, effort, and expense that went into the series! I, for one, would deeply appreciate anything that you would put together for bolt gun reloading for accuracy which is of great interest with my daughters, wife, and I. If you were still thinking of doing the subject. But right here you have covered most of the dies that I use: Lee collet neck die, Forster FL die, and even the Lee press. I am really learning a lot!
You are literally the greatest thing since sliced bread…. Thank you so much for making this video my brain cannot understand this concept until after you explained it
I use the same setup with a redding body die and lee collet. I like the collet die much better than a mandrel because it will flow the brass at the neck to uniform the thickness too.
I really liked how well everything was explained, thank you. I have a question. Can you pass a cartridge with primer, powder and the bullet through the body die?
Hello there, your down to earth video is a breath of fresh air. Any chance of a show with a start to finish reload using the Lee Press and trimmer? Using a full length sizing die , the Lee Collet Die and a seating die? The difference between the 21st century expander die and the Lee Collet Die? And how calibrate a powder thrower with a scales and how you place your hybrid projectiles in your 6.5. Crimp or dont crimp and why? Thankyou kindly for your shows. Your advantage is with your presentation , no techno jargon just facts, simple detailed instruction and honest clear comments. Gods speed. Thanks mate. Andrew Nz
With the Lee Collet Die…. Do you HAVE to run it with the de-priming rod in it in order to get the neck properly tensioned? Asking because if I wanted to pull bullets just to harvest the primed brass for something else, I know I would need to re-form the neck to get proper tension, but I do not want to pop out the good live primers that would be in them still.
I've got the same Forster resizing die in 6.5 Creedmoor. How do I know if I'm positioning the expander ball too high or too low in the die? Is there a trick or rule of thumb to know if you've got that expander ball positioned correctly?
Start with the recommended protrusion of the decapping pin (3/16” IIRC but read the instructions). It is possible to have the ball/pin too high up in the die where it jams when you try to extract the case from the die. To clear the jam, just screw the decapper assembly further down into the die.
Hello, I'm new on this reload world and I'm trying to learn some on YT and after watched your video I have one question: If I use a FL die then I don't need a rollsizer anymore? At first I want to start reloading 9mm and 223 in a lee turret classic ( that I already bought). Thank you!
Just get the basic lee die set, 223 two dies a full length resizer and a seater die, for 9mm three dies full length sizer, powder though expander and a seater crimp combination die... lee reloading manual .... If you are having problems then you can start looking at specialty dies... there's a lot of marketing and a lot of wives tales with a bunch superstition in reloading, just take your time and everything will be okay
Great video! Very informative! Question for you Have you ever heard of warming the brass before resizeing. I was told it makes resizeing alot easier. I have not tried yet because I didn't know what temp to heat my brass to or how to heat it. Also this is not annealing process. Thanks
Thank you!! I'm glad you enjoyed it! :) I'll be honest, I've never heard of warming up brass before resizing- maybe only to dry it after a wet tumble (or to anneal of course, which you mentioned it's not for that). If it were me..I wouldn't bother heating up brass because I doubt it will do much, not to mention brass can get hot to the touch quick! I'm not an expert in metals or anything like that, so I'm trying not to discredit it too hard. If you're having trouble with sizing consistency I'd try another die or another case lube. Hope this helps!
With a redding small base full length sizer die if i understand correctly if the the neck is dented in very slightly from hitting something while being ejected will it straighten it back out from both the inside and outside or just resize it by squeezing it back down from beimg expanded in the chamber?
This series is very well put together. I particularly like the birds-eye view with zoom in/out to capture what is important. Also the side-view transition to the press. Thank you for the time, effort, and expense that went into the series! I, for one, would deeply appreciate anything that you would put together for bolt gun reloading for accuracy which is of great interest with my daughters, wife, and I. If you were still thinking of doing the subject. But right here you have covered most of the dies that I use: Lee collet neck die, Forster FL die, and even the Lee press. I am really learning a lot!
You are literally the greatest thing since sliced bread…. Thank you so much for making this video my brain cannot understand this concept until after you explained it
Thank you for the best explanation I have found. Look forward to your videos
I use the same setup with a redding body die and lee collet. I like the collet die much better than a mandrel because it will flow the brass at the neck to uniform the thickness too.
I really liked how well everything was explained, thank you. I have a question. Can you pass a cartridge with primer, powder and the bullet through the body die?
Hello there, your down to earth video is a breath of fresh air.
Any chance of a show with a start to finish reload using the Lee Press and trimmer?
Using a full length sizing die , the Lee Collet Die and a seating die?
The difference between the 21st century expander die and the Lee Collet Die?
And how calibrate a powder thrower with a scales and how you place your hybrid projectiles in your 6.5.
Crimp or dont crimp and why?
Thankyou kindly for your shows.
Your advantage is with your presentation , no techno jargon just facts, simple detailed instruction and honest clear comments.
Gods speed.
Thanks mate.
Andrew Nz
I remove the expander balls to avoid inducing runout. I prefer to use a dedicated expander die in a separated step.
With the Lee Collet Die…. Do you HAVE to run it with the de-priming rod in it in order to get the neck properly tensioned? Asking because if I wanted to pull bullets just to harvest the primed brass for something else, I know I would need to re-form the neck to get proper tension, but I do not want to pop out the good live primers that would be in them still.
Upvoting just to get your channel boosted.
For AR and semi auto a small base size works even better to mil spec as it should be
Not necessary unless you are processing brass fired in an over-sized chamber (e.g. machine gun)
I've got the same Forster resizing die in 6.5 Creedmoor. How do I know if I'm positioning the expander ball too high or too low in the die?
Is there a trick or rule of thumb to know if you've got that expander ball positioned correctly?
Start with the recommended protrusion of the decapping pin (3/16” IIRC but read the instructions). It is possible to have the ball/pin too high up in the die where it jams when you try to extract the case from the die. To clear the jam, just screw the decapper assembly further down into the die.
Hello, I'm new on this reload world and I'm trying to learn some on YT and after watched your video I have one question: If I use a FL die then I don't need a rollsizer anymore? At first I want to start reloading 9mm and 223 in a lee turret classic (
that I already bought). Thank you!
Just get the basic lee die set, 223 two dies a full length resizer and a seater die, for 9mm three dies full length sizer, powder though expander and a seater crimp combination die... lee reloading manual ....
If you are having problems then you can start looking at specialty dies... there's a lot of marketing and a lot of wives tales with a bunch superstition in reloading, just take your time and everything will be okay
Great video!
Very informative!
Question for you
Have you ever heard of warming the brass before resizeing.
I was told it makes resizeing alot easier.
I have not tried yet because I didn't know what temp to heat my brass to or how to heat it.
Also this is not annealing process.
Thanks
Thank you!! I'm glad you enjoyed it! :) I'll be honest, I've never heard of warming up brass before resizing- maybe only to dry it after a wet tumble (or to anneal of course, which you mentioned it's not for that). If it were me..I wouldn't bother heating up brass because I doubt it will do much, not to mention brass can get hot to the touch quick! I'm not an expert in metals or anything like that, so I'm trying not to discredit it too hard. If you're having trouble with sizing consistency I'd try another die or another case lube. Hope this helps!
Hornady seaters leave more than desirable runout.
Redding body die and the lee neck collect with a Fosters seater or Willson and.
Funny thing is I get no run-out with lee full length sizer 🤷♂️
With a redding small base full length sizer die if i understand correctly if the the neck is dented in very slightly from hitting something while being ejected will it straighten it back out from both the inside and outside or just resize it by squeezing it back down from beimg expanded in the chamber?