Machining a Model Steam Engine - Part 3 - Multiple Components
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- The Valve Chest Cover and the Chest Packing Gland come to life in this episode. Stick around for a double surprise showing a technique you are going to like. Enjoy !
Patreon Support: / joepie
Website: www.advancedin...
Web Store: www.advancedin...
![Oscar Maydon x Fuerza Regida - Tu Boda [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_ymicn0_GYc/mqdefault.jpg)
A lot of full size packing glands have a cone shape instead of a flat bottom. It assists in compressing the packing against the shaft when tightening down the gland. I do it that way on my steam engine models and it works well. If you tighten the gland just enough to eliminate leakage and the gland is still sitting proud, you’ve done it right.
Time will tell.
I love watching you both. And I know when I'm watching a pro or a hobbyist!
Usually the cylinder valve rod hole is conical at the bottom. This allows the graphite yarn sealing material to be compressed between the valve rod and the cylinder. The packing gland should be proud of the cylinder once the initial seal is obtained. Then the packing gland can be snugged up to compensate for wear in the graphite yarn. Full sized engines are built this way. Good surprise. Thanks.
spot on i hope joe reads this
There is also the option of using tapered/angle contact packing rings that achieve the same effect, flat bottom glands are viable, with the right packing.
@@kevinmcleod6329 You seem to be suggesting eliminating the traditional cone and graphite yarn packing and re-engineering a completely new packing design. Sounds interesting. I'd like to see that. BTW, If J. Pie is to stuff Teflon into the cavity, Poisson's ratio for Teflon is about 0.42 so It might work anyway. Cheers.
@@garrythomas5168 Do you honestly believe he will admit he made a mistake? The fact that it is a tiny model is the only reason he will get away with it.
I always learn things from your videos.....but watching you actually machine parts I learn 10 times as much
Glad to hear it
Hi Joe,
Great methods as usual and drilling the gasket like that was very clever.
Just one point on the gland design - there are two common designs for models and based on the geometry of the components you have done I am guessing you are going for an 'O' ring as opposed to the traditional stuffing gland?
With a stuffing gland the parts are typically designed so that both the female and male parts have a Concave face. This means that when they come together they squeeze the gland material towards the middle which hugs the rod. On a model of this size you would typically use 'Graphited Yarn' which is a graphite impregnated string. You wrap it round the rod and then squeeze it up by drawing the bolts in. When suitably tight you would still have a gap between the faces of the cylinder and gland so that you can snug it up as it runs in. The 'O' ring design is just as your parts have been formed. You squash an 'O' ring in-between two flat surfaces. In this design the gland is fully tightened against the cylinder face as you described.
The 'O' ring is a cleaner design but can act as an oil wiper which can stop lubrication getting through. The stuffing gland of course continually lubricates and holds oil.
PS I have started up on the Locomotive videos again. Cheers
Crispin
Thanks Crispin. Steam engines are new to me, but I've done valve work for a while. This kit uses teflon rope packing, so the gland may still be proud even with my .025 gap. It acts like a stem nut on an outdoor faucet I suppose. I'll come over and watch your progress.
I'm looking forward to your new videos. I have caught up on most of your library. You do very nice work.
Joe, The fact 2 people are doing the same project, one is able to see how different people do the same job.
Better yet, many are able to see how 2 different people do the same job. The beauty of this trade.
You’ve got a way of distilling complex operations down to common sense and math. (Well, technique is important) To a 70 ish retired guy and a complete newbie to machining, your videos are a real inspiration. Keep up the great work Joe!
Thanks. I'm glad you find them helpful.
Joe, Thank you for sharing your time and many tallents! I really am enjoying all of the set up tips. All the best. Chuck
Hi Joe. Thanks for sharing. I enjoy watching all of you hobby to pro level YT-ers: ToT, ABOM 79, Blondiehacks..... you get the idea. I appreciate different perspectives on how to get tasks done - always. There is also always a better way IMO. I've been involved in machining, including tool and die, production machines and automation, molds, fixturing, and even engine machining for some serious pro racing machines since the early 80's. I also attended years of Engineering school and currently teach post secondary engineering, CAD, and science. More importantly, I know I know very little at best. I've often had ordinary average people with no special education or experience whatsoever come up with brilliant solutions to my design and machine building problems that had me stumped. It can be humbling, even humiliating. But in the end, I've learned a new idea and / or perspective. To me, this hobby level stuff isn't about any competition. I appreciate all of anything I can learn and all of you and what you are providing, even the rare times if / when I don't absolutely agree with a method, idea, etc.
Hi, Joe
I wish I had access to this sort of video presentation many years ago when I was teaching machine shop. It would have saved me a ton of time, and a lot of wear, and tear on my knees, and sanity !!!
Kids had a lot of trouble working with rough castings, after being taught to square their stock up . The MK 1 eye ball technology didn't seem to fit in the machine shop for them. Lots of Fathers that thought they were machinist were very upset with my teaching. I always had a standing invitation for them to come in and teach us the " Proper way " to do an operation. None ever did !!! Your machine work is exceptional, as is your videography. Thanks for your hard work in putting on these productions.
Tim
Thanks Tim. It really does take some effort to get , edit and produce a good video. I'm glad you enjoy them.
What, no super glue fail? You call yourself a RUclips Machinist?
That darned Joe Pie. Always has some shopmade piece of tooling that nobody ever heard of and makes the job easy. Fricken' funnel or some darned thing.
Like Snoopy used to say, "Curse you Red Barron!"
LOL, keep it up Joe!
thanks for the comment Bob. Good to hear from you.
The reason for cutting out the center of the gasket is, when the gasket gets wet it can sag and deteriorate and pieces can get trapped under the slide valve
I agree! Steam pressure, slight vacuum, soggy gasket leads to big trouble!
I am chaos, Lord of the Wet Paper, jamming your pores. 😫😤😂
That makes perfect sense.
@@joepie221 a little fyi...if you run it on steam cast iron will rust, and you will have to have a way of getting oil in the cylinder after steaming. I built the same kit last year and i put the steam inlet in the valve chest cover and i use the top port on the valve chest to get oil in the cylinder with the help of compressed air.
I'm thanking you for giving reasons for different setups! Even the famous Mr. Pete, says there are a million was to get the job done. Explaining the spiral grooves on the glan is a perfect example!!!!!
I spent many years in high precision valves used by the military. Small details can have a big impact.
Ohhhh thank heavens!!! I just realized you were doing the same project! You have eased my nerves. Seriously, every.. single.. operation of "the other way" fills me with anxiety and stress.
As it should.
Joe, Every time you say "You'll like this" i am reminded of a British magician who appeared in TV shows a lot in the 1970s and 1980s. He had a catch phrase that went "You'll like this ..... not a lot .. but you'll like it" It got so my wife and i would shout at the tv and join in every time..
The gasket made at the same time is just genius!
Love watching a master at work.
Thank you.
I work in a technical field and have to go to factory training classes regularly. When the instructor simply demos a technique I learn some, but I learn a LOT more when something goes wrong and he has to fix it. In a twisted way the circumstances here are similar. The kit is being built one way somewhere else and mistakes are made, then here I see methods that improve on the original attempt. The two different paths together are WAY more instructive than either would be alone. It would have been super cool as an actual collaboration, but still interesting and instructive as-is. I know as an amateur machinist I would kill to have an actual professional critique my work and suggest improvements (for free even!). Look forward to the completion of both. Hope the other metalworker sees this comment. Cheers, Dan.
There’s an old saying “There’s no such thing as a free lunch”. Joe is donating quite a bit of his valuable time here (not that he isn’t enjoying himself) and the kit didn’t manifest itself out of thin air. If you find value in what you are seeing here, don’t forget there is a way to support the channel through Patreon (there is a link to his Patreon page above the comment section). I personally spent my professional career on the other end of the drawing process in engineering and have been trying to self teach myself the machining art for over 10 years. I have found great value in what I have learned here and hope there will be more of this type of instruction in the future. Great job Joe!
Thank you John. I take this stuff seriously. maybe too much at times.
Great job Joe.
The reason for cutting the center out of the gasket is to keep it from softening, falling apart and jamming in the slide valve when running on steam.
Great info on the concentric vs spiral grooves on a sealing surface!
Joe you are a wizard! Beautiful problem solving, beautiful work!
LMAO - ok... the opening gag was actually really fucking funny. 🤘🏻😂👍🏻
Glad you liked it.
Joe Pieczynski gotta say, Joe... I’ve been hanging on your every word for this whole series... it’s like old school apprenticeship stuff. I’ve been around machinists my whole life, but am only now (age 47) starting to get into it myself. This steam engine series is _fantastic_.
@@ArmchairDeity Thanks. I'm having fun doing it.
Another great video with base "blocking and tackling" on essential shop math and setup approach. TRIG and Geometry are your essential friends........well played. BTW, it would be a great shot to get one of you Wolf spider buddies to emerge from the cylinder bore! It is getting close to Halloween ya know!
Joe just so you know your videos reach people in need. I’m one round into my chemotherapy treatment, laying on the bathroom floor watching this video, and when i saw how you positioned the small part in the lathe I audibly went “ahh that’s smart” 😂 thanks for the knowledge! I hope to use it
Seen a bunch of busting on the super glue here, but I have seen Chris ovet at Clickspring turn faces on thin pieces that could not have been held ant other way that I can think of (except maybe vacuum) I am pretty sure I have seen Stefan Gotteswinter use it to hold things on an arbor. I know cyanoacrylate adhesives are capable if used properly. I did see some misuse on that other build, where a cyanoacrylate curing catalyst was applied to one piece, the adhesive to the other, then pressed together, which would actually cure the adhesive before it really touched the second piece. The problem there was not the super glue, it was improper use of the super glue. Adhesive clamping for machining is not wrong, it is just not appropriate where mechanical clamping can be used.
Agreed.
Super glue is good extra insurance when pressure turning. Never had much success facing.
Important to note that CA tensile strength varies by the material bonded, e.g. www.permabond.com/technical-datasheets/permabond-910/ shows Al-Brass is weaker than Fe-Brass!
That was inspired with the gland flange Joe and also the 6 hole pattern drilling and gasket. This is a really super series. Thank you.
Doing gods work Joe, thanks for the frequent uploads on this topic. Really looking forward to the crank shaft and eccentrics.
Another great video Joe! Enjoying this build and the machining that goes along with it.
It’s like watching Yoda and Vader collaborate. Not only does it make sense, but more-so, it’s awesome.
My admin nicknamed me 'Joda" Love it. Thanks Jordan !!
GREAT analogy!
... Thanks Joe ... a Master Class in thinking BEFORE doing .... EXCELLENT ...
Glad you enjoyed it
You are correct; the gasket surprised me... but I have learned a new lesson. Thanks again!
Glad to help
I have been waiting SO LONG to see you show us techniques for doing a model steam engine!!
You can thank my generous donor for giving me the kit and opportunity. I'm liking it so far.
You want space on a packing gland so it can be tightened as the packing settles in and wears. The engine probably won't be run enough to need it but that is how they are designed.
Hi Joe,
Another example of fine machining. When you were drilling the holes on the valve chest cover I did notice something was unusual, then on the third hole I noticed a change in color under the valve chest cover and that's when I realized you had gasket material under it. Slick idea to cut the gasket holes with the end mill, which would make perfect holes in the gasket material. That technique alone was worth watching the video to the end. Stay safe.
Glad you caught that. I could have drilled the holes, but the end mill gives a nice crisp hole in the softer material.
I'm really enjoying this series. I'm not sure I'll ever build a steam engine, but I like seeing the thought process behind the work flow.
Excellent explanation of a great way to work with castings! I do want to note, I am an engineer who used to work in the nuclear valve industry, where those type of gland seals or stuffing boxes are used extensively around valve stems. They are intended to have a gap between the flange and body of the stuffing box. This allows using a variable number of seal rings or stuffing box windings. the flanges are engineered to withstand the bending put on them by having the air gap in the bolted joint.
I agree. Since this is just a model, I'm going for flush. The teflon rope packing will probably still keep the gland proud of the surface though. The areas are different.
Thanks for sharing! Great techniques.
Thank You for another great video of alternative methods of a machining process. You are one smart guy. BB
Thanks for watching!
Thank you! I had no idea pressure turning even existed and have learned a new method to put in my 'tool box'. Great job!
Check out Joe's video on pressure turing, I think it looked scary. Btw, it's the first Joe's video I ever watched.
Glad I could help!
One argument I've heard for cutting the center out of the gasket, other than aesthetics, is that since it is in a hot wet environment, it can expand and sag, and potentially start to interfere with the valve slide movement. Probably doesn't happen often, but it could.
it definitely happens, and that is the reason they're removed.. well, and you can probably make another gasket out of the center piece!
I've seen it happen a lot with carb gaskets
Hi Joe, love your tips on this and other builds. I need to correct you on the stuffing box and gland. They ar both 0.125 because you do want the cland seal to be proad of the surface. That alows you tighten until the gland does not leak. yoy will pack that with cotton or graphite string, your build will need 0.100 in order to fill the gland and the compression of that around the shaft of the steam valve.
Noted. thank you.
The conical (drilled) feature is a part of that compression function, without it you risk cracking the casting as it is not going to seal without the tapered bottom driving the packing towards the shaft
Top man!!!
Really impressed with your technique, going to be saving myself a lot of time with my models.
Thank you again Joe
Hi folks, if you don't have the narrow nose clamps and precision pins I guess you could use a bolt into a tapped hole but it won't be as accurate as Joe's technique. The second step, getting the circular cutting pattern can be done by drilling and tapping the block for the gland's own mounting holes. Rather fiddly though. As Joe makes a point of saying this is a one off model, there's no need here for interchangeability with other gland nuts and us amateurs have sometimes to manage with what we have - or can make - in terms of fixings and tooling. Comes of limited budgets and in some case CEO authority to spend! Having said that, it is educational to see how to really go about this sort of work and I thank Joe for that. BobUK.
Drill shanks are precision ground and can be used in place of pins in a pinch.
As always, briljant. Safe and precise. I almost beleive I would manage now.
Thanks for doing this project Joe. Very useful for us Model Engineers.
That compression cone on the lathe is something I haven't seen in a long time....I had to check my toolbox to see if I could still find the one I made 30 years ago......great vid Joe.
My comment is based on fullsize practice not necessarily model practice. The underside of the Chest Packing Gland usually includes a slight taper to help compress the packing material around the piston rod, valve rod, or shaft to improve the seal. It may not be needed in a model because of the size.
I was thinking the same thing, we usually made packing glands with a 5-deg. angle (170 deg. incl.). That being said, using an end mill as a spot face can give you a convex face and not flat since endmills are generally ground slightly concave to center so the corners of the endmill do the cutting and the center of the mill will not drag the surface.
Beautiful set up for the drilling and machining - the reveal at the end was outstanding and gabbing that two for one in that set up. Many would Not have thought of it. ME included. Have a day and waiting on next video on this.
Beautiful work and very inspiring. Thanks for sharing.
I lolled at the 3d printing bit at the beginning... Thought you were going to pull a This old Tony....
Thanks for sharing your processes for this steam engine.
Hi Joe,
Great machining but you don't understand "stuffing box" seals. You need the clearance between the flanges for future adjustment. It isn't intended to sit tight to the body.
Sooty, I agree 100% I was trained in the Navy 45 yrs ago as a Machinist Mate and later as an Outside Machinist at the Quincy Shipyard, that stuffing is either beveled so that the packing gathers towards the centerline, (the stem.) Or if it is machined square as Joe has here, it needs to have special chevron shaped packing. With chevron packing there would need to be a lot more clearance than zero because it requires several bands of packing to achieve a proper seal. Bottom line both the packing gland and the main casting should have a bevel that forces the material into the shaft, when the gland is tightened into the main casting. Sorry Joe.
@@macbirt56 On full size machinery I'm used to a stack of chevron rings with male and female end rings to give square ends. On models of this small scale I would expect the shaft to just be wrapped with a good length of graphited yarn. Either way, there needs to be lots of flange clearance to achieve and then maintain the correct compression.
@@sooty655 I appreciate the technical support. thanks.
Totally brilliant, I have this model and sussing out the way I’m gonna go about it!
The series covers most of the parts. Feel free to ask a question if you get hung up.
Joe, the reason to cut the center of the gasket is so it doesn't swell over time and rise up into the path of the valve shuttle. (I think)
On a full size engine with a condenser the bit in the centre won't tear away and end up plugging a condenser tube if there is no centre piece.
Certain types of gasket material can crumble and fall into the inner workings. The edge degrades much slower. A good example is paper-poly gaskets. You print your gaskets on paper, then you repeatedly paint the paper with Spar Polyurethane until it's saturated, which gives you a gasket that's very easy to duplicate. It's very fragile in direct exposure to the environment, but when clamped, will resist gear oil (NOT MOTOR OIL), hydraulic fluid, some cutting fluids, water, Kerosene, Gasoline, Diesel. Cleans up with alcohol or brake cleaner/acetone. Not as difficult to deal with as silicone.
I like it. thanks.
As I understand it, cutting out the middle of the gasket keeps it from sagging under the wetting of steam. That was from "Keith Appleton" who has a model steam channel.
I have learned a lot from you, and a few others, about both production and precision machining. A lot that I wish I had learned when I did trades training in the previous millennium. But here, you are building a Rolex when the plan is a Timex. You are correct in that the packing gland should not be too far out, but it should NEVER be close to going solid no matter how long the spud. It will need to move as the packing wears in and a longer spud, within reason, allows for the movement without over stressing the flange ears or the studs. The spud should be a free fit in the bore, as well (not loose, not sliding, but free or approaching close/running). A key difference between a follower and a packing nut. The conical bottom to the well from a drill actually helps compress the packing in many designs, and the follower may have a conical feature, as well. This reduces the axial force needed to achieve a running seal, and can reduce leakage if the compression is lost due to wear and the packing shifts. As for the spiral groove from the lathe, not a problem, as long as the finish is within reason. 1150PSI with 300F superheat every day, no problem. The flange gaskets at that pressure are spiral wound, as well. I love your gasket trick, and may use it in the near future, though at 10 to 20 times the scale with an annealed copper gasket. Transfer punches are so entrenched in the workflow....
If I planned to run this model for some purpose, I would take the advice and add the cone. I see the benefit, but I'll probably test fire it with air and sit it on a shelf forever. As for transfer punches, you could count on one hand how many times I've used or needed them, and have several fingers to spare. I don't even own them. I guess its a field specific thing.
Thanks Joe, I very much appreciate your time and teaching style. I hope you continue the engine build to completion for us. With your instruction, I feel I may also be able to tackle a casting kit model without buggering it up. I'm guessing this is the PM research they call steam engine #1?
Correct.
Very much enjoying this series of videos. Please keep up the excellent work.
Joe, you have obviously worked with actual live steam systems. Any one that knows that little but insanely arcane bit o knowledge about spiral v concentric surface rings on valve glands has done WAY more than mere fan boy baiting.
I got a couple hours on valve work. just a couple. :)
I thought the big surpise was that there was going to be no blow out on the back off the holes, the gasket was a good trick and I will have to remember that one.. I am starting to think I could take this little engine on as a project and thanks for another really good video, really appreciate you showing us all this build
Loved the way you held that piece on the lathe for pressure turning. So simple but it never occurs to me!
Glad you liked it!
As always a master of the trade. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and great content.
The valve cover gasket should be hollowed out because under steam the center unsupported section will get damp and sag and possibly get caught in the valve motion.
That seems to be correct. Thanks.
Thank you! I learned a lot from this video. I would have fallen into the hole spacing trap without you explaining what was wrong with it. The error may have been be small in this case, but if you don't know, you don't know. One day it will catch you out. I did guess the gasket though - about half way through.
Love your approach on making these parts , very good job !
As always great video 👍well I did find out 3d printer to be extremely useful when I made the carb slide to my 2stroke engine. I've printed a cube that had all needed features build in. So making it was a matter of turning dimensions and then just put it in to right whole and change drills/end mills.
Hi Joe I dig your videos , awesome to have someone like you on youtube. I ran across this JB video and man... repulsive!! don't give this arm chair quarterback the time of day. You are a master at your trade. Thank you for all the great tips and techniques. Keep em coming!
That guy?? has come at me from every direction. There are many uncanny similarities between him and QD. the graphics in their videos, what they say they do for a living, where they are from, certain words I have only heard from her, and you never see his face. It QD using a voice box. I'd bet on it. I stole her cylinder glory and shes showing her fangs. I've already seen them, thats why the little digs. I'm over both of them. Thanks for your support.
@@joepie221 You're sorta right Joe. Its not QD though. There is a "dynamic" on Y/T you might not be aware of, it's called being a Sock Puppet. That's what JB is, a Sock Puppet.
I'm guessing you know how a Y/T channel is awarded revenue. Upvote v down votes, subscriptions v unsubscriptions, watchthroughs, and a whole bunch of other "metrics."
Sock puppets are paid to down vote a video and try and influence other people to do the same. The purpose is plainly money. Some body wants to move viewers aware from your channel to cost you money.
The fact that one persons content is blatantly being copied in an effort to "neg(ate) your metrics" is an obvious indication of violation of Y/T standards and practices.
The fact that a person would ingage in such behavior says untold volumes about the persons character and demeanor.
BTW it is called "sock puppeteering" because the OP (Original Poster) has their hand up the puppets.....
I found the OP with a quick search of the title. This IMHO, is EXACTLY the caliber of person that would engage in Sock Puppeteering, obvious lack of real skill and overt capitulation to fan manipulation. And the ability of the person to perform the tasks PROPERLY is not in question. SHE is a total HACK!
You stay the course my friend. You are obviously the victim and the true craftsman par excellence.
What I am seeing here is all the proof I need that I am no machinist, yet my live steamer which I machined runs well, a tribute to the nature of steam power.
And the perseverance of those willing to succeed. Good job. if something gets in your way, go over, under or around, but see it as an opportunity to get creative and move forward.
Fantastic work as usual Joe ...so envious of your superb workshop too
Many thanks! I've worked hard for my facility.
I love the 3D joke right off the bat. Made my morning! Thanks.
Its so nice to see a pro do it, Much simpler and more efficient. You rock Joe.
I always learn something here Joe....like all the little tips..thanks for sharing !
You are technically correct with your explanation about the holes on an angle, but if the angle is really small it might not matter too much.
Good topic for explaining anyway or people might wonder why it doesn't work right in their specific case.
Its not immediately obvious, but the consequences should be understood.
Hi Joe, I watch your videos since the beginning and all your tips help me in this trade. All your tricks seems so obvious !
Pierre from France
Thanks Pierre. All solutions seem obvious once they are presented. Do me a favor, and show someone else.
Im never to old to learn, Thanks Joe
Very nice Joe. Going to get this kit soon.
Joe- Am in the mood to make some accessories before starting another project. Could you give some approximate dimension of your "toe clamps and bolt sizes and maybe those of your "cheese board" with all the threaded holes and materials recommended? You are a great teacher, am learning a lot. Thx
JP on the project videos, game changer. Great work joe, keep em coming!
Pretty slick gasket tip there.
As soon as I saw you sidestep the X, I was saying to myself your throwing the dimension from center off! I like how you did the setup with second pin in the plate to hold center. also excellent point about the concentric cut for the gland sealing surface; I totally would have overlooked that before seeing this, but it makes perfect sense.
The features were centered within a couple thou. Do you still feel they were off? I may misunderstand your comment.
@@joepie221 I think you misunderstood his comment. I think he's saying he saw the error before you pointed it out. (As did I, when I saw it on the other channel. But I'm a mathematician, not a machinist, so I'm kinda expected to.)
@@joepie221 yes Joe misunderstanding. as Ron Parker suggested, I was referring to the (intentionally) erroneous setup you were highlighting in the video (before) showing your own setup. Nothing wrong with your setup at all! As I tried to say in my first comment, that second pin in the working plate is good addition for stability. If this had been a project I was doing, I may not have thought of that; (experience certainly has its advantages). Otherwise rotating the part to align with the Y axes is exactly the same as I would have approached this.
Joe, great show with that pressure setup to do the gland diameter . greta setup tips and techniques, loved it all, cheers!
I'll use that again on this build. Bet on it.
The creaking noise in the background is Mr Pete rolling his eyes.
Its my robot walking around.
Nailed it yet again Mr Pie! I have seen another build of this (not sure if it is the same one), but in the one I watched, the builder lined the first hole up by eye and mirrored the DRO offset for the 2nd hole, so as long as the first dimension is good, they will line up correctly and the hypotenuse issue won't occur? Thanks again for making your world so accessible and sharing your quite staggering wealth of knowledge.
Joe, thanks for pointing out not to hammer the cover down on the vice while tightening, lots of people get this wrong and end up confused why their fly cutter isn't flat. 😂
On a similar note, when gripping a (relatively) thin piece by the bottom edge like this it's also important not to crank down on the vice too hard or you'll be wondering why the part comes out with a cupped surface. I know you have a good touch there, but it's a related problem (and one I've had before).
Always be mindful of clamping stresses and distortions when holding material for machining.
Good points. very true. These vises can produce incredible pressure. My next video will mention that.
Great stuff. Always pick up something to use for future projects.
Oh, two birds with one stone! Very neat gasket manufacture. Never would have thought of that myself. Must remember that for other things. BobUK.
Free parts are money in the bank.
Great video Joe. Is there an official tool name for that FLOATING CENTER ALIGNING CONE? @2:37 have to make me one ASAP...Like it!✔👍
I don't actually know. I have them in a dozen different sizes for turning just like I demonstrated.
@@joepie221 Thanks Joe, It is a great tool for turning castings!
@@joepie221 And u make them as you need then. or when they have progressed down is size to nothing
Years of experience versus hobby experience ahahah both are awesome anyway!
andresgodinho But then you see the hobby experienced write in her page it’s for education.. well, if you educate I would say it’s best to be a master in the trade. Else you show people stupid things. Which is the case...
You don't get to be an experienced professional without first being a beginner and having some good luck and opportunity. I remember it well. I hope my material is valuable to all levels.
@@joepie221 i enjoy both your videos and Blondies videos. I am a machinist in Portugal and i work at a factory that makes molds for the plastics industry. I am something of a home machinist. I had the oportunity to bring home a damaged machine from work (1986 Anayak with Fagor 8010M cnc controller) and i fixed her up a few years ago. Now i am looking for a lathe hehe my car has to sleep outside because i used the Garage to make a small work shop. Both you and Quin bring ideas to the table and you both to great with what you have.
Have a great day!!
Well joe I did see the gasket but I was more impressed with your cool clamps.
Kant twist clamps. Very useful because they stick out, not up. I think I got mine from MSC?
Another great learning experience! Thanks for sharing and keep up your great work!
This video reminds me of the movie "Flight of the Phoenix" w/ Jimmy Stewart. In the end the guy that knew what he was doing surprised them all. (I won't spoil it in case you haven't seen it...) More gold nuggets added to my meager collection in this one. Thanks.
Only now does he tell us he builds 'toy' aeroplanes. Old Jimmy was mad a wasp when he discovered that detail.
@@howardosborne8647 Which brought us to the moral of the story at the end. If you have a thorough grasp of the subject matter at hand 'scale' is irrelevant. It flew didn't it? lol.
Seriously though the other place seems to take offense at being offered any help or suggestions at all. Their loss.
I enjoyed that movie
@@joepie221 Me too. Add me to the list of those who got a good chuckle out of the 3D printing as well. Maybe I live under a rock. Haha!
Joe, the reason, i've heard, to cut out the center of the gasket is that when exposed to being soaked in steam and steam oil for a long time, the center of the gasket will soften and bits may foul the slide valve.
another thing, when it comes time to adjust the valve timing you might want to check out videos on the topic by Keith Appleton (ruclips.net/user/keithappletonvideos), he's been working model engines for a while now and has some good recommendations . . . particularly using a hole in the eccentric strap to access a setscrew to change the timing.
This kit has the setscrew in a separate boss next to the eccentric hub, so no need for extra holes to access it.
Oh the differences between a professional and a hobbiest....I could be talking about the machine work or the camera focus/editing/ect! ! Either way this is great channel and RUclips is great platform so I don't have to watch mainstream tv. Thank you Joe for great content and clear explanations!
My camera does not have a manual focus mode. A new one is coming with the help of my Patreon supporters.
keeps swinging. The savage beating continues.
Joe I absolutely recognize how late this comment is, but I have not long ago found your channel. I like your approach to the learning/teaching process and wish I had found you a few decades ago.
What I would like to say, is to make an internal cut out in a gasket you need to orient it to the part (with bolts or pins, etc.) and use a ball peen hammer do score the line. Then simply use a knife or scissors to finish the cut out.
Hope that helps somebody
Cheers,
Thanks.
I have a fly cutter tip to go with yours . It’s not in common for someone to use the width of their part in their formula to find the SFM for the single pass fly cut they are about to make. When that’s actually incorrect. The number you should use in the math for your SFM in a single pass fly cut operation should ALWAYS be for the diameter the fly cutter is set at.
You are one smart guy Joe, you make it all look so simple
Thank you.
Hi Joe Just a little tip I learned years ago at my aviation maintenance school as for making gaskets. An easy way to get the shape of the gasket is to put a light coating of oil on the surface of the chest place the gasket material on the chest and press it against a flat surface For example screw the cover on top of it. The oil will print the shape out on the chest side of the gasket making it easy to cut out as you said with an exact knife
I like it. Will the oil compromise the gasket?
@@joepie221 It shouldn't if you just use a light coat just enough to mark it and not saturate it
z
Yeah, but then you've got to punch the holes out of it. This way was neat!
@@Mister_G I agree I like the way he did it as well
If oil effects the gasket material, you've got the wrong gasket material. You feed oil into the steam, for virtually all steam engines, large or small.
You are doing yet more processes that I have never seen or imagined before. Very interesting Joe, Many thanks my friend. Would orientating the part to the small boss you sanded off with a sm square not be correct as far as aligning the two tie down screw holes to the center of the round plug ? Of course you nailed it with your method as with the rest of todays post. Thanks a bunch Joe. I still have to chuckle as I am always thinking about the ships engines and pipeline compressors I made for years. Aside from the pressure turning there is really no difference with the setups and execution. Have a great weekend my friend. Take care eh.
That surface on the packing gland, when you explain the difference between circular and spiral grooving, is actually not a sealing surface, since there is atmospheric pressure at both the outer and inner radii. The other three surfaces of the packing are sealing surfaces.
I would disagree. Its a compression surface and concentric grooves will absolutely help the seal.
@@joepie221 I suppose than in some sense it is a "compression surface" insofar as it is compressing the packing, but it is very definitely not a sealing surface because there is nothing to seal on this surface. There is no radial pressure differential, nothing trying to force steam to leak along this surface.
@@kevinmartin7760 wile I agree with Joe that the concentric cuts make a more effective sealing surface, I do believe that you are correct, that this is not a sealing surface; it simply serves to compress the gland tight against the other three surfaces which do create the seal.