Thanks for the video it was appreciated. I loved when you said that the rotor was rusted....that amount of rust on your car is one year in Northern Ontario!!! The rest of the components are like new! We always have to fight to get anything off due to rust and we spray the cars every year....😀
Hey thanks. I thought that’s how it’s done, I just wanted to make sure. Lol I have never cleaned the pins for free travel but I will start doing that now. Thanks for the video.
Instead of hammering the rotor, there are two screw holes that are threaded in the rotor for removing it. 8 x 1.25 I'm pretty sure is the size. It's safer than bashing dents into the rotor face
Whenever a vehicle is jacked up BLOCK the rears wheels. Grease the tabs in pads where the make contact with caliper clips. Torque the bolts and lugs to factory specs. Also a thin wipe of never seize in surface of wheel hub will ease the removal of rotors next time you do your brakes. Lug bolts also.
Subscribed! Dan, great job. One question, I see others mentioned it but I didn't find any answers. I've done several brake jobs over the years and never took out the caliper pins. Could you do a video, or just reply, how to take them out? Do they just pull out or do they unscrew, or is there some other method? Thanks for making the video, I'm sure I'll be back. Doing my wife's RAV brakes soon. Sorry, I guess I should have said multiple questions. 🙂
They should just unthread and then pull out, there might be a little rubber dust boot that will come out with the pin, or it could stay in the caliper bracket
Dan, the two threaded bolt holes in the rotor can be fitted with two metric bolts and when tightening the bolts, it will pop off a frozen rotor without any banging with a hammer. I've done this numerous times with sucess each time. Cheers.
Yep, fully aware of that, I've had to use that method tons of times in the past, but since i was just replacing these anyways, i didn't mind having to hammer them off
@@theman9764 Exactly, a hammer is far easier if you're replacing the rotor. Those threads always strip right out on any vehicle from the Northeast if they're bad enough to need replaced. So usually a hammer is the only viable option.
I think they're called abutment clips or abutment shims, something like that, their main purpose is to prevent the brake pads from vibrating and causing noise
There are 2 holes on the rotor where u could just screw 2 18mm bolts in. These 2 bolts are used for taking the rotor off so u don't have to bang on rotors with a hammer☺
How can I tell which size of rotor I should purchase? I'm seeing 275mm and 296mm front rotors online. The car is currently in the shop and I'd like to purchase parts in advance.
Don’t you have to pump the brakes or engage the ebrake or something to tighten back the piston? This is my first brake job attempt, a response from anyone would be most helpful!
Just gotta pump the brakes a couple times, since the rotors and pads are new, the caliper piston doesn't have to travel out very far, usually just a few millimeters
@Quannyavondale chances are if the clips were originally there, probably a good idea to reuse or replace them, just don't leave it empty, they're designed with the clips for a reason
Just got a full rotors and pads kit from rock auto. $150. Powerstop brand. Just be careful theirs 2 different sizes on the rotors for these ravs4s go measure the rotors first when choosing the kit. Also great deal$ considering $80 for 1 quality rotor at a auto parts store
U ever shake a veteran mechanics hand? It will feel like it's one solid peace of lead, make your powerlifting ass hands retire powerlifting. 6:35 that's reason why. 😆
well you missed a crucial step, brake cleaning the rotor, they all come with a rust-resistance oil coating and has to be cleaned off or else it's ganna cause problems
Brakes are satisfying when they go well. I had a seized caliper bolt on my 02 GTP, went to brake place to have them try, and as expected, the bolt broke. *SIGH*
Really! Give the wrench a good whack with a sledge hammer? NO, absolutely not. PLEASE use a proper torque wrench or suffer broken stuff. Do not do what this guy did. A small investment in the correct tool will save money and you WILL use it again and again.
How many years you been doing this bud? There's only a handful of fasteners that proper torque is crucial, brake calipers and the caliper bracket is not one of them, nobody in the industry, and i mean nobody torques brake hardware, i don't care what anyone else tells you, it never happens
30 years, since you ask. I have been doing my own car work since I was a teenager. I also am an idustial mechanic. There is a torque spec for a reason. So take a hike.
Hi - 3 questions (may have been asked/answered and I missed it… sorry): 1. I’ve done several brake changes over the years and sometimes I open the Bleeder valves to depress pistons as I’m doing a brake fluid change at the same time and other times I Don’t. I heard that with ABS you are suppose to - seems pushing dirty fluid back up the system can damage ABS pump/electronics. I don’t subscribe to this but was wondering. You did not open bleeder valves?? 2. Since you didn’t open the bleeders. Did you open cap on main cylinder? 3. Doing the back brakes on this 2015 is similar but the pistons need to be twisted and pushed. I suppose the best method is just buy the kit that fits over piston? Thanks.
Hi - 3 questions (may have been asked/answered and I missed it… sorry): 1. I’ve done several brake changes over the years and sometimes I open the Bleeder valves to depress pistons as I’m doing a brake fluid change at the same time and other times I Don’t. I heard that with ABS you are suppose to - seems pushing dirty fluid back up the system can damage ABS pump/electronics. I don’t subscribe to this but was wondering. You did not open bleeder valves?? 2. Since you didn’t open the bleeders. Did you open cap on main cylinder? 3. Doing the back brakes on this 2015 is similar but the pistons need to be twisted and pushed. I suppose the best method is just buy the kit that fits over piston? Thanks.
Авто/Мото
I am changing my wife's 2015 Rav4 this weekend and this video help a lot. Thanks
I have seen 5-6 videos of the subject. Yours is the best. Thanks
Thanks for the video it was appreciated. I loved when you said that the rotor was rusted....that amount of rust on your car is one year in Northern Ontario!!! The rest of the components are like new! We always have to fight to get anything off due to rust and we spray the cars every year....😀
Hey thanks. I thought that’s how it’s done, I just wanted to make sure. Lol
I have never cleaned the pins for free travel but I will start doing that now.
Thanks for the video.
Caliper torques are as follows:
Front Brake Caliper Torque Specs : 25 ft-lbs
Front Caliper Banjo Bolt Torque Specs : 22 ft-lbs
Front Brake Caliper Bracket Lugnuts Torque Specs : 72 ft-lbs
Rear Brake Caliper Torque Specs : 25 ft-lbs
Rear Caliper Banjo Bolt Torque Specs : 22 ft-lbs
Rear Brake Caliper Bracket Lugnuts Torque Specs : 76 ft-lbs
Appreciate this!
Hi thanks for the video very helpful
Instead of hammering the rotor, there are two screw holes that are threaded in the rotor for removing it. 8 x 1.25 I'm pretty sure is the size. It's safer than bashing dents into the rotor face
Normally that's what i would do if i was reusing the rotors, these were getting replaced so it didn't matter
Thank you for this.....
Great job 🎉
Thank you for the positive comment!
Excellent
On the pads did you put little shims on the top or bottom?
How much silicone grease do you recommend on upper and lower pad sliders?
Thanks for your details. And it could be perfect if you provide torque values for each bolt.😊
you can look them up the point here is how to replace pads and rotors.
No lube for the pads? Thanks for the video!
Whenever a vehicle is jacked up BLOCK the rears wheels. Grease the tabs in pads where the make contact with caliper clips. Torque the bolts and lugs to factory specs. Also a thin wipe of never seize in surface of wheel hub will ease the removal of rotors next time you do your brakes. Lug bolts also.
Tks. 👌🏾👌🏾new sub.
Subscribed! Dan, great job. One question, I see others mentioned it but I didn't find any answers. I've done several brake jobs over the years and never took out the caliper pins. Could you do a video, or just reply, how to take them out? Do they just pull out or do they unscrew, or is there some other method? Thanks for making the video, I'm sure I'll be back. Doing my wife's RAV brakes soon. Sorry, I guess I should have said multiple questions. 🙂
They should just unthread and then pull out, there might be a little rubber dust boot that will come out with the pin, or it could stay in the caliper bracket
What about indexing the rotors?
Torque wrenches are cheap and google is free bruh.....lol great video thanks for helping..yes I subscribed!
Dan, the two threaded bolt holes in the rotor can be fitted with two metric bolts and when tightening the bolts, it will pop off a frozen rotor without any banging with a hammer. I've done this numerous times with sucess each time. Cheers.
Yep, fully aware of that, I've had to use that method tons of times in the past, but since i was just replacing these anyways, i didn't mind having to hammer them off
What's the size. Of that fastener in metric. I'm doing this job now
@@theman9764 Exactly, a hammer is far easier if you're replacing the rotor. Those threads always strip right out on any vehicle from the Northeast if they're bad enough to need replaced. So usually a hammer is the only viable option.
Awesome video, one question, what's the name of the clips you're replacing that hold the pads? I couldn't understand min 10:15
I think they're called abutment clips or abutment shims, something like that, their main purpose is to prevent the brake pads from vibrating and causing noise
Did you use just one jack stand ?
Yeah, just did one side at a time, i have like 8 something jack stands but i was being lazy and just used 1
There are 2 holes on the rotor where u could just screw 2 18mm bolts in. These 2 bolts are used for taking the rotor off so u don't have to bang on rotors with a hammer☺
Thank you but I'm completely aware of that
Just an extra thing to snap on a rusty rotor. Don’t waste your time. 5lb hammer is all you need
How can I tell which size of rotor I should purchase? I'm seeing 275mm and 296mm front rotors online. The car is currently in the shop and I'd like to purchase parts in advance.
Not really sure, i haven't run into that issue yet
The auto parts guy just asked me this question over the phone. I guess I'll have to take one off and go up there to match it up.
Use your VIN # when ordering parts. ALWAYS Place your old rotor over your new one to double check diameter and lug hole alignment
Where did you get the caliper tool?
I don't remember, I've had that tool for 25 years or so, probably autozone, i know for fact you can find one on Amazon
Don’t you have to pump the brakes or engage the ebrake or something to tighten back the piston? This is my first brake job attempt, a response from anyone would be most helpful!
Just gotta pump the brakes a couple times, since the rotors and pads are new, the caliper piston doesn't have to travel out very far, usually just a few millimeters
@@theman9764 oh nice, duly noted! Most appreciated my brother!
Great video , are those clips mandatory to change? Where do I find them?
Been awhile since I've watched my own video, so which clips are you referring to?
@@theman9764 sliver V shaped clips in the caliber I think they hold the pads if I’m not mistaken
@Quannyavondale chances are if the clips were originally there, probably a good idea to reuse or replace them, just don't leave it empty, they're designed with the clips for a reason
@@theman9764 gotcha thanks man! Keep making great content
what pad and rotor did you use to replace?
I don't remember the exact brand but i purchased them on rockauto.com
Just got a full rotors and pads kit from rock auto. $150. Powerstop brand.
Just be careful theirs 2 different sizes on the rotors for these ravs4s go measure the rotors first when choosing the kit.
Also great deal$ considering $80 for 1 quality rotor at a auto parts store
U ever shake a veteran mechanics hand? It will feel like it's one solid peace of lead, make your powerlifting ass hands retire powerlifting. 6:35 that's reason why. 😆
79 ft lbs on 17mm , 26 ft lbs on 14 mm, grease the brake pad spring clips
The only important part is the caliper pins, and of course you did that off camera, so we still don't know for sure which pin goes where.
Exactly why I came here
well you missed a crucial step, brake cleaning the rotor, they all come with a rust-resistance oil coating and has to be cleaned off or else it's ganna cause problems
Naw, that stuff will burn right off the first couple of miles of braking, now, if they were covered in actual grease, you bet I'd clean them off
@@theman9764 Exactly!
Brakes are satisfying when they go well. I had a seized caliper bolt on my 02 GTP, went to brake place to have them try, and as expected, the bolt broke. *SIGH*
Really! Give the wrench a good whack with a sledge hammer? NO, absolutely not. PLEASE use a proper torque wrench or suffer broken stuff. Do not do what this guy did. A small investment in the correct tool will save money and you WILL use it again and again.
How many years you been doing this bud? There's only a handful of fasteners that proper torque is crucial, brake calipers and the caliper bracket is not one of them, nobody in the industry, and i mean nobody torques brake hardware, i don't care what anyone else tells you, it never happens
30 years, since you ask. I have been doing my own car work since I was a teenager. I also am an idustial mechanic. There is a torque spec for a reason. So take a hike.
Hi - 3 questions (may have been asked/answered and I missed it… sorry):
1. I’ve done several brake changes over the years and sometimes I open the Bleeder valves to depress pistons as I’m doing a brake fluid change at the same time and other times I Don’t. I heard that with ABS you are suppose to - seems pushing dirty fluid back up the system can damage ABS pump/electronics. I don’t subscribe to this but was wondering. You did not open bleeder valves??
2. Since you didn’t open the bleeders. Did you open cap on main cylinder?
3. Doing the back brakes on this 2015 is similar but the pistons need to be twisted and pushed. I suppose the best method is just buy the kit that fits over piston?
Thanks.
Hi - 3 questions (may have been asked/answered and I missed it… sorry):
1. I’ve done several brake changes over the years and sometimes I open the Bleeder valves to depress pistons as I’m doing a brake fluid change at the same time and other times I Don’t. I heard that with ABS you are suppose to - seems pushing dirty fluid back up the system can damage ABS pump/electronics. I don’t subscribe to this but was wondering. You did not open bleeder valves??
2. Since you didn’t open the bleeders. Did you open cap on main cylinder?
3. Doing the back brakes on this 2015 is similar but the pistons need to be twisted and pushed. I suppose the best method is just buy the kit that fits over piston?
Thanks.