When I get a new tool I usually reshape the handle. Normally I use longnose jaws in a 4-jaw chuck, but here's an alternative method for anyone with just standard chuck jaws.
very amazing video. this wood turning process is very similar to making fishing rod handles. I can learn a lot of knowledge from your videos. hopefully more successful.full suport to you
I find myself watching your videos instead of TV news these days. Funny story: I was reshaping a used tool handle and got a spray of lead shot the original maker had installed. Something I learned from you early on : no need to over do the finish and leaving the center is always a good idea.
Thanks Richard. I picked up a couple of Henry Taylor scrapers on eBay and the handles are too thick for my grip, I think they're made for a giant! I reckon I'll give them a reshape now after seeing your video. 👍🏻
I’m impressed with your proficiency and expertise with your lathe. I admire your skill and dedication to teach turning & techniques to others. I’m retired from carpentry, mainly heavy timber & wood framing & finish as well. I’m a Richard Bradley but not a R. Raffan. My cheap JET 12-36 spins forward only. Today in my dyslexic mind I was wondering why no one turns the bowl inside portion in reverse? Seems like not holding your arm out across the lathe bed would be less toque for a body and more control of the tool. Yeah I do think backwards. I have been shopping for a newer updated lathe like yours, and justifying the reverse option operation.
You can do a lot worse than a Jet and that model has much the same capacity as my Vicmarc VL150. A longer bevel on your gouge means not having to lean quite so far over the lathe bed. There are hollowing systems that allow you to hollow with tools cutting the far side of centre. The more popular solution is a swivel headstock. Decades ago bowls were commonly turned outboard - the left side of the headstock, something I found quite difficult. Bowls are hollowed as they are now because a better way has yet to be found.
Well done Richard. You didn't take much off but sometimes it doesn't take much to get the right fit. Thank you for sharing.. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Nice quick video Richard. I find I prefer the shape of the Sorby Handles myself. I made a couple that are just straight, that I want to reshape to be more like the Sorby style.
I noticed that slight offset handles, especially on my woodworking bench tools--say, an awl or scraper burnisher---help the tool to not roll over and fall.
I bought a lathe that came with HSS tools, but I wanted some carbide tools. So I got some raw steel rod, ground a tip to hold the carbide then tapped a hole. Found out they sell just the steel ends on Amazon, so my next couple came from there. But I used some hickory, now on 3 or 4 tools. It's tough but turns well, really holds up after all this time. A bit of cabernet red and some poly and they look professional. I also made mine much longer it feels better to have more control on them, but I see advantages to a shorter tool. Just need to make some short handles and I'll have them all.
The rule-of-tumb for a tool handle is three to five times the length of the potential cutting distance from the rest. So for an 8-in long deep-hollowing tool a handle at least 24-in to 30-in would work well. I never understand why anyone bothers with carbide tools when traditional tools produce a much better surface off the tool, but that's another issue.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning I think for me it was something I needed to try since I was new at that time. I still use carbide, but HSS always gets used too. I like having as many options as possible and keep on learning. Thanks Richard.
Hi Richard. I have just acquired a 1983 woodfast m910. Apparently you used to use one. Have you got any idea where to source parts in the uk? Sorry maybe not appropriate here but I do t know how to message you any other way
Many thanks. Are there advantages to certain types of wood for handles (ash being traditional) or metal ones? And yes, the sight of the stripey, wax-laden sock still makes me smile.
Most of my wooden handles are ash and beech, both coming with Sheffield-made tools. I still use day-to-day three of the ash handles I made as a complete novice in 1970. I also like the Glaser aluminium handles from the mid-1980s which cannot roll on the bench and that I can load with lead shot when I need more weight. They're good when working well over the rest.
Good info Richard. Question I have Richard, the bowl scrapers you have seem to have a wide yet thick metal tool blade. The ones I have seen are much less robust as to thickness of blade, do you have any suggestions of brands to look at? Also most have straight sides. I take you could round over edges with a CBN wheel Take care Cheers Harold
My larger scrapers are ⅜-in thick and made by Henry Taylor since about 1984 when they were made as a Raffan Signature Range for Craft Supplies USA. In the past few years they've been sold more widely. The shear scrapers are ¼-in thick and easy to make by converting an elderly 1-in. skew chisel too short for centrework. The lower left corner on the side of the blade is easily rounded on a belt or disk sander. It doesn't take much rounding to have it sliding easily along the rest.
I want a handle to fit my hand and be long enough to cope with the leverage involved with turning. The handle on a turning tool should be four to five times the length of the cutting edge is from the tool rest. So if you intend to use a scraper to bore 12-in into endgrain, a 5-ft handle makes life a lot easier than a 16-in handle. But if you use the same scraper to bore down only 2-in, a 12-in handle on the 13-in blade is more than suffecient. Then I want handles slightly different shapes so they're easy to recognise on a bench covered in shavings.
Hi Richard, what if you have a gouge that is solidly planted into the handle with epoxy? Could you run the gouge up through the chuck and fasten down that way? Thanks! I learn a lot watching your videos.
To remove tools secured with CA glue in metal handles, you heat the handle using a blowtorch. When a tool is epoxied in a wooden handle and it's used up, I'd save what you can of the handle and use that to make a shorter handle. I don't recommend putting any gouge in a chuck unless the jaws are gripping up against or around the ferrule. Only small gouges will fit though the drive spindle
The abrasive is Colour Coded Grit www.veneerinlay.com.au/product-category/sandpaper/emery/. If you’re in North America, I’m told it’s stocked by Craft Supplies USA.
Good video Richard .....I have reshaped quite a few over the years but I admit I get a bit nervous about the tang secured by only a jam fit in the handle and I invariably end up epoxying. Just me......one of my many anal hangups. 😉
It pays to grind the end of a round tang to a facetted point that will jam into the bottom of the hole and prevent it rotating - assuming the tang is a tight fit.
Side effect of this video for me was watching the proper use of the skew in turning beads. Thank you.
I've got a couple of scraper handles I am not fond of. Thanks to you, I am going to go make them mine! Thank you Richard.
Lovely work Richard
Thanks for the tip Richard. I have made many handles however I have never reshaped an old handle.
very amazing video. this wood turning process is very similar to making fishing rod handles. I can learn a lot of knowledge from your videos. hopefully more successful.full suport to you
I find myself watching your videos instead of TV news these days. Funny story: I was reshaping a used tool handle and got a spray of lead shot the original maker had installed. Something I learned from you early on : no need to over do the finish and leaving the center is always a good idea.
Thanks Richard. I picked up a couple of Henry Taylor scrapers on eBay and the handles are too thick for my grip, I think they're made for a giant! I reckon I'll give them a reshape now after seeing your video. 👍🏻
Bowl gouge handles tend to be far to large for my hands, although, in fairness, most people don't keep their right hand near the ferrule as I do. .
I’m impressed with your proficiency and expertise with your lathe. I admire your skill and dedication to teach turning & techniques to others. I’m retired from carpentry, mainly heavy timber & wood framing & finish as well. I’m a Richard Bradley but not a R. Raffan. My cheap JET 12-36 spins forward only. Today in my dyslexic mind I was wondering why no one turns the bowl inside portion in reverse? Seems like not holding your arm out across the lathe bed would be less toque for a body and more control of the tool. Yeah I do think backwards. I have been shopping for a newer updated lathe like yours, and justifying the reverse option operation.
You can do a lot worse than a Jet and that model has much the same capacity as my Vicmarc VL150. A longer bevel on your gouge means not having to lean quite so far over the lathe bed. There are hollowing systems that allow you to hollow with tools cutting the far side of centre. The more popular solution is a swivel headstock. Decades ago bowls were commonly turned outboard - the left side of the headstock, something I found quite difficult. Bowls are hollowed as they are now because a better way has yet to be found.
Well done Richard. You didn't take much off but sometimes it doesn't take much to get the right fit. Thank you for sharing.. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Nice quick video Richard. I find I prefer the shape of the Sorby Handles myself. I made a couple that are just straight, that I want to reshape to be more like the Sorby style.
An interesting video, Richard. Thank you for sharing 🌞
I almost invariably take a little off tool handles, I have big hands but most lathe tools feel less than agile when new.
I actually have received new tool handles that should have customized. Great video!
I noticed that slight offset handles, especially on my woodworking bench tools--say, an awl or scraper burnisher---help the tool to not roll over and fall.
Most od my tools are offset slightly. First it was due to ineptitude on my part, then I recognised the advantages.
I bought a lathe that came with HSS tools, but I wanted some carbide tools. So I got some raw steel rod, ground a tip to hold the carbide then tapped a hole. Found out they sell just the steel ends on Amazon, so my next couple came from there. But I used some hickory, now on 3 or 4 tools. It's tough but turns well, really holds up after all this time. A bit of cabernet red and some poly and they look professional. I also made mine much longer it feels better to have more control on them, but I see advantages to a shorter tool. Just need to make some short handles and I'll have them all.
The rule-of-tumb for a tool handle is three to five times the length of the potential cutting distance from the rest. So for an 8-in long deep-hollowing tool a handle at least 24-in to 30-in would work well. I never understand why anyone bothers with carbide tools when traditional tools produce a much better surface off the tool, but that's another issue.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning I think for me it was something I needed to try since I was new at that time. I still use carbide, but HSS always gets used too. I like having as many options as possible and keep on learning. Thanks Richard.
@@WoodUCreate Options are always worth having.
Hi Richard. I have just acquired a 1983 woodfast m910. Apparently you used to use one. Have you got any idea where to source parts in the uk? Sorry maybe not appropriate here but I do t know how to message you any other way
Many thanks. Are there advantages to certain types of wood for handles (ash being traditional) or metal ones? And yes, the sight of the stripey, wax-laden sock still makes me smile.
Most of my wooden handles are ash and beech, both coming with Sheffield-made tools. I still use day-to-day three of the ash handles I made as a complete novice in 1970. I also like the Glaser aluminium handles from the mid-1980s which cannot roll on the bench and that I can load with lead shot when I need more weight. They're good when working well over the rest.
Good info Richard.
Question I have Richard, the bowl scrapers you have seem to have a wide yet thick metal tool blade. The ones I have seen are much less robust as to thickness of blade, do you have any suggestions of brands to look at? Also most have straight sides. I take you could round over edges with a CBN wheel
Take care
Cheers
Harold
My larger scrapers are ⅜-in thick and made by Henry Taylor since about 1984 when they were made as a Raffan Signature Range for Craft Supplies USA. In the past few years they've been sold more widely. The shear scrapers are ¼-in thick and easy to make by converting an elderly 1-in. skew chisel too short for centrework. The lower left corner on the side of the blade is easily rounded on a belt or disk sander. It doesn't take much rounding to have it sliding easily along the rest.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thanks Richard
What is your criteria for a "good" handle, shape, diameter, etc.
I want a handle to fit my hand and be long enough to cope with the leverage involved with turning. The handle on a turning tool should be four to five times the length of the cutting edge is from the tool rest. So if you intend to use a scraper to bore 12-in into endgrain, a 5-ft handle makes life a lot easier than a 16-in handle. But if you use the same scraper to bore down only 2-in, a 12-in handle on the 13-in blade is more than suffecient. Then I want handles slightly different shapes so they're easy to recognise on a bench covered in shavings.
Hi Richard, what if you have a gouge that is solidly planted into the handle with epoxy? Could you run the gouge up through the chuck and fasten down that way? Thanks! I learn a lot watching your videos.
To remove tools secured with CA glue in metal handles, you heat the handle using a blowtorch. When a tool is epoxied in a wooden handle and it's used up, I'd save what you can of the handle and use that to make a shorter handle. I don't recommend putting any gouge in a chuck unless the jaws are gripping up against or around the ferrule. Only small gouges will fit though the drive spindle
Wouldn’t heat also soften the epoxy?
Kicking myself a bit for epoxying all off tool handles 🙁
@@JoelAlbert1 You could try heating the tool to soften the epoxy.
Another informative no nonsense video, thank you. What brand of Abrehsive do you use, the colour coding is so handy.
The abrasive is Colour Coded Grit www.veneerinlay.com.au/product-category/sandpaper/emery/. If you’re in North America, I’m told it’s stocked by Craft Supplies USA.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning I’m in Blighty … we have only just given up on sharkskin here 😂😂😂🤣
Good video Richard .....I have reshaped quite a few over the years but I admit I get a bit nervous about the tang secured by only a jam fit in the handle and I invariably end up epoxying. Just me......one of my many anal hangups. 😉
It pays to grind the end of a round tang to a facetted point that will jam into the bottom of the hole and prevent it rotating - assuming the tang is a tight fit.