Be sure every blower door test goes both ways - pressure test and vacuum test. Many leaks can physically seal themselves in one direction, but not the other. Because of things like wind, chimney effect, and forced air HVAC, any house will have some rooms under pressure and some under vacuum at any given moment.
I do like your attention to detail .What I see at times is Subs going in and slam shit up cover it up quick .I blame the General contractor for not doing their job and stop cutting corners to save money but still charge like it was done right .
Hello. I'm enjoying your videos. Would like your advice on the following. I live in a hot part of so cal where in the summer it can reach 110 degrees outside and in the cold as low as 40. My garage walls and ceiling is open and I plan on insulating the walls and ceiling with standard R13 and R30. Because I'd like to screw things onto the walls without having to find studs, I'm sheathing with OSB however I hate the look of OSB even if painted. Would there be any issues if I put drywall over OSB? I'm hoping the insulation and drywall on top of OSB helps with making my garage quieter too. I appreciate your response. Thanks!
Cesar G insulate as usual, pack out your studs another 2", use foil- faced osb, (foil to the insulation side) then moisture resistant drywall, no problem. your garage will handle the extreme temperatures much better.
Matt, Have you tried any of the 3M All Weather Flashing Tape 8067 or Air and Vapor Barrier 3015? If not, can I interest you in taking a look at those materials? thanks
During your video, you spoke about water control being important to you, as it would be to all homeowners. But I noticed that the Tyvek is wrapped around the window openings in preparation for the windows. That is not best practices to install a window over top of the Tyvek even though caulk and tape will be applied on top of the Tyvek. If the Tyvek is punctured, due to, let's say many vinyl siding nails, and water infiltrates behind the Tyvek near the window, the water "will" run inside the window. Best practices for installing a window is to place the caulk directly on to the OSB on both sides and top of the window, then install the window and nail the flange, then flash around the window, then install the Tyvek over top of the window flange, and flash the Tyvek around the two side and top of the window. Now if water were to penetrate behind the Tyveck, the Flashing tape and caulk would prevent it from penetrating into the house. See RUclips video entitled " Properly Flashing Windows"
+Zig Zag The video at 5:00 shows what he does and this method is used everywhere. I do believe like you that the window is better caulked, nailed, and flash taped right to the OSB but when wrapping Tyvek around the whole house you really have to do it this way. How can you cut back the wrap on the sides when you have to build your pan and be able to install the window to the OSB? It seems pretty difficult to wiggle the window and flashing into the wrap so that it's all behind the wrap. Only at the top do you do this. Now, if you were using a horizontal layer wrap such as resin paper you can manage it some, but that's too low tech right? :) Actually, I still use resin paper (not roofing felt, red resin paper) in remodeling all the time. I don't know what's thought of that anymore but it's seemed to me that a horizontal layering approach to the wrap makes sense if you're the one doing all of the work yourself as opposed to multiple subs. You wrap, install windows and install siding on your way up the wall, adding the wrap as needed and when appropriate.
There are only two acceptable methods to flash a window/door according to Tyvek standards, both installing the windows AFTER wrapping the entire house (where the wrap goes inside the rough openings like in Matt's video above) and installing the windows BEFORE wrapping the house. Both are Tyvek accepted standards and neither are better because StraightFlashing is used in both scenarios, which is butyl-based (self-healing) so if a nail was driven in near the window and water somehow got under substrate, it was hit the flashing (not going past the StraightFlashing) and drain down. Incidentally, most contractors will use either method depending on the circumstances. For example, windows installed BEFORE WRB can allow a contractor to install windows/doors before inspections for shear walls & framing. Conversely during specific conditions there may be needs to install the WRB to protect the house during construction in circumstances where shear wall inspection is not required and framing inspections can occur from within. Hope that helps clarify this!
The window frame cannot be relied on to be 100% water resistant. Joints at the bottom corners, especially, could allow water passage, which would then be draining BEHIND the Tyvek. This is why the entire rough sill should be wrapped properly, before the window goes in. My preference is for a sloping rough sill with tapered shims compensating, so that the window sits on a level surface.
I am not able to get Siga Wigluv in time, what are thoughts about Tuck tape blue for PE for wood sheathing seams (essentially same as their white/red but thicker plastic and thicker adhesive for vapor)?
What if I don’t use a whole house ventilation system. I don’t have a furnace, only electric heat, and a gas fireplace. I’ve been told at that point I don’t need to have a whole house fan. So in my case would doing this be a bad idea?
Do you tape step flashing to tyvek on a roof wall detail for vertical vinal siding. I'm having some issues with leaking there And the builder thinks I'm crazy. It's the only way water can get in there. Super hi winds.
Love your videos. Joe Lstiburek is the guy at building science and has a wonderful video on youtube at Distinguished Lecturer Series: Building Science - Adventures in Building Science
Matt, is there any way to calculate how many rolls you might need? I am building a 50 x 60 pole barn and this tape seems to be a great idea to add it before the tyvek.
There are over 100 housewraps on the market now but only a handful can control air, water and vapor like Tyvek. The less expensive brands found at big box stores are known as woven/perforated wraps. These wraps are designed to reduce air and water entry, not stop it. Tyvek is a non-woven highly permeable wrap which bulk water and air will not penetrate. If a wrap is going to be used, choose the product that will do the job you're looking to do. Keeping water out of the home is one aspect in building that you don't want to choose the cheapest product.
There is a university study where they compared various wraps and also the old tar paper. Tar paper did pretty well compared to the new plastic based stuff. Sorry, don't have the link but google is your friend.
Something this big he might have aerobarrier come in instead. Or interior OSB with 1 by strapping after air sealing on the inside of the stud wall and insulate from the exterior.
2020... found this video. I'm guessing there are other good products to use besides this tape? Also, how does everyone feel about doing this to an existing home as I'm replacing the vinyl siding?
Absolutely do not try to air seal your existing home unless you plan on demolition inside to install an ERV and all the duct work to mechanically vent the house.
If I want to buy a real fixer-upper and rehab it myself, are Joe Lstiburek's books truly essential? Any other definite must-buy books? If it matters, I'm looking in the Louisville area, and will be doing wood construction, possibly gutting the interior and building an exterior insulation/barrier shell.
+Joshua Targownik Hey, I found this book you might like www.amazon.ca/Green-Remodeling-Changing-World-Room/dp/0865714983/ref=sr_1_10?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1459135015&sr=1-10 I haven't read it but one of the authors co-wrote the book Green From The Ground Up, which is our building science bible for said course I take at College. Joe Lstiburek is great though, definitely read his articles and watch his videos!
Matt Risinger they don't sell this at home depot or lowes on on ebay. what else is almost the same I can't get at home depot or lows in California ? and question instead of tape would like silicone gun work the same
+Gerald mcneal no silicon won't do it. You can buy it online. Or use a Fluid Applied Weather Barrier product like Blue Barrier Or Prosoco RGuard (also not at those stores)
Wouldn't the house wrap provide at least a percentage of air control at the sheathing joints? Especially combined with spray foam insulation? Just wondering if the tape really provides a significant difference with the total system.
It is a multi-layered approach. The WRB should handle the majority of the air barrier but there are certain areas where skip taping is used, which in turn can allow air flow in (granted minimal but still). It also depends on which WRB method is used and how its executed...for example, how is the subfloor/slab to mud sill transition being handled?
Matt, if you use the Siga tape on the OSB seams do you still tape your Tyvek seams?....or does the Siga take the place since it takes care or the air tightness?
+kyle8114 On the building I'm doing at the moment in college we have three air control layers. It's a small detail to go that extra step of taping, but worth it in the end!
+Matt Frieda Good question Matt. I've found that Taped housewrap is generally NOT airtight. You need to follow more extreme measures including caulking the housewrap to have an "airtight" installation and even that isn't great. Taping the OSB seams is much better for airtightness.
Matt Risinger they don't sell this at home depot or lowes on on ebay. what else is almost the same I can't get at home depot or lows in California ? and question instead of tape would like silicone gun work the same
nailing sheathing to a stud does nothing for to stop air infiltration. The joint must be sealed. Try building a stud & sheathing boat and see how long it will float.
I'd like to know the difference between 3M and Siga too. We are just about to purchase one or another. 3M looks pretty good. Any thoughts +Matt Risinger
Why don't you frame your homes using SIP's? They seen to be stronger, much better insulated, have a strong fire rating, much, muck quicker to erect a shell. Tne only down side compared to your method is the 2' bottom weatherproof seal. Enjoy your video's!
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Totally...... Tenacious DUUUUDE!!!!
Be sure every blower door test goes both ways - pressure test and vacuum test. Many leaks can physically seal themselves in one direction, but not the other. Because of things like wind, chimney effect, and forced air HVAC, any house will have some rooms under pressure and some under vacuum at any given moment.
Matt, you still need to tell us the blower door test door results! Thanks
We ended up with 1.8ACH50 on this house. Tight, but I was hoping for closer to 1.0
You should pin this comment. I always look for answers in comments before asking a question. This question kept coming up over and over!
Matt could you use air tightness paint with a high perm rating on the inside of the sheathing in the house?
I look forward to seeing the results.
tenacious
+dia480
tenacious ly
This is the Barton Creek Traditional, no? I love this house. Great Job!!
+cmm170526 Yes, correct. Good catch! Best, Matt
I do like your attention to detail .What I see at times is Subs going in and slam shit up cover it up quick .I blame the General contractor for not doing their job and stop cutting corners to save money but still charge like it was done right .
What way does that tape stick again? I didn't quite catch that.
Hello. I'm enjoying your videos. Would like your advice on the following. I live in a hot part of so cal where in the summer it can reach 110 degrees outside and in the cold as low as 40. My garage walls and ceiling is open and I plan on insulating the walls and ceiling with standard R13 and R30. Because I'd like to screw things onto the walls without having to find studs, I'm sheathing with OSB however I hate the look of OSB even if painted. Would there be any issues if I put drywall over OSB? I'm hoping the insulation and drywall on top of OSB helps with making my garage quieter too. I appreciate your response. Thanks!
Cesar G insulate as usual, pack out your studs another 2", use foil- faced osb, (foil to the insulation side) then moisture resistant drywall, no problem. your garage will handle the extreme temperatures much better.
Matt, Have you tried any of the 3M All Weather Flashing Tape 8067 or Air and Vapor Barrier 3015? If not, can I interest you in taking a look at those materials? thanks
Yes I've heard 3m had some new ones on the market. Would love to see and review them!
Oh boy, Matt
Have you ever used the liquid applied products that seem popular with the passive house crowd?
Matt, did you bother taping the garage area? Seems unnecessary since you're trying to disconnect the garage from the rest of the house envelope, yes?
During your video, you spoke about water control being important to you, as it would be to all homeowners. But I noticed that the Tyvek is wrapped around the window openings in preparation for the windows. That is not best practices to install a window over top of the Tyvek even though caulk and tape will be applied on top of the Tyvek. If the Tyvek is punctured, due to, let's say many vinyl siding nails, and water infiltrates behind the Tyvek near the window, the water "will" run inside the window. Best practices for installing a window is to place the caulk directly on to the OSB on both sides and top of the window, then install the window and nail the flange, then flash around the window, then install the Tyvek over top of the window flange, and flash the Tyvek around the two side and top of the window. Now if water were to penetrate behind the Tyveck, the Flashing tape and caulk would prevent it from penetrating into the house. See RUclips video entitled " Properly Flashing Windows"
+Zig Zag The video at 5:00 shows what he does and this method is used everywhere. I do believe like you that the window is better caulked, nailed, and flash taped right to the OSB but when wrapping Tyvek around the whole house you really have to do it this way. How can you cut back the wrap on the sides when you have to build your pan and be able to install the window to the OSB? It seems pretty difficult to wiggle the window and flashing into the wrap so that it's all behind the wrap. Only at the top do you do this. Now, if you were using a horizontal layer wrap such as resin paper you can manage it some, but that's too low tech right? :) Actually, I still use resin paper (not roofing felt, red resin paper) in remodeling all the time. I don't know what's thought of that anymore but it's seemed to me that a horizontal layering approach to the wrap makes sense if you're the one doing all of the work yourself as opposed to multiple subs. You wrap, install windows and install siding on your way up the wall, adding the wrap as needed and when appropriate.
There are only two acceptable methods to flash a window/door according to Tyvek standards, both installing the windows AFTER wrapping the entire house (where the wrap goes inside the rough openings like in Matt's video above) and installing the windows BEFORE wrapping the house. Both are Tyvek accepted standards and neither are better because StraightFlashing is used in both scenarios, which is butyl-based (self-healing) so if a nail was driven in near the window and water somehow got under substrate, it was hit the flashing (not going past the StraightFlashing) and drain down.
Incidentally, most contractors will use either method depending on the circumstances. For example, windows installed BEFORE WRB can allow a contractor to install windows/doors before inspections for shear walls & framing. Conversely during specific conditions there may be needs to install the WRB to protect the house during construction in circumstances where shear wall inspection is not required and framing inspections can occur from within.
Hope that helps clarify this!
The window frame cannot be relied on to be 100% water resistant. Joints at the bottom corners, especially, could allow water passage, which would then be draining BEHIND the Tyvek. This is why the entire rough sill should be wrapped properly, before the window goes in. My preference is for a sloping rough sill with tapered shims compensating, so that the window sits on a level surface.
I am not able to get Siga Wigluv in time, what are thoughts about Tuck tape blue for PE for wood sheathing seams (essentially same as their white/red but thicker plastic and thicker adhesive for vapor)?
How do you seal the transition from the upper sheathing to the rakes and eaves?
When you get your houses this tight, do you also use (and recommend) a fresh-air handling unit to do air exchanges?
Build tight , Ventilate right! Yes definitely.
What if I don’t use a whole house ventilation system. I don’t have a furnace, only electric heat, and a gas fireplace. I’ve been told at that point I don’t need to have a whole house fan.
So in my case would doing this be a bad idea?
Absolutely. If you don’t ventilate the home, you will have real problems with mold and mildew
Matt, would you apply this to an attic subfloor if you planned to finish the attic?
Do you tape step flashing to tyvek on a roof wall detail for vertical vinal siding. I'm having some issues with leaking there And the builder thinks I'm crazy. It's the only way water can get in there. Super hi winds.
Love your videos. Joe Lstiburek is the guy at building science and has a wonderful video on youtube at Distinguished Lecturer Series: Building Science - Adventures in Building Science
Matt, is there any way to calculate how many rolls you might need? I am building a 50 x 60 pole barn and this tape seems to be a great idea to add it before the tyvek.
What is your thought on the quality of the big box stores version of Tyvek? Price difference is huge.
There are over 100 housewraps on the market now but only a handful can control air, water and vapor like Tyvek. The less expensive brands found at big box stores are known as woven/perforated wraps. These wraps are designed to reduce air and water entry, not stop it. Tyvek is a non-woven highly permeable wrap which bulk water and air will not penetrate. If a wrap is going to be used, choose the product that will do the job you're looking to do. Keeping water out of the home is one aspect in building that you don't want to choose the cheapest product.
Jason Moyer Great points Jason! Agreed 100%. Best, Matt
Matt Risinger Siga also has it's own internal and external wraps.
There is a university study where they compared various wraps and also the old tar paper. Tar paper did pretty well compared to the new plastic based stuff. Sorry, don't have the link but google is your friend.
Matt ok this video was 2013 its 2020 do you still recomend this tape????
Something this big he might have aerobarrier come in instead. Or interior OSB with 1 by strapping after air sealing on the inside of the stud wall and insulate from the exterior.
Now they use zip system but you can still use Vapor open Wigluv tape on zip although Huber is working on a vapor open version of zip tape.
My new build is already tyvek and I haven’t insulated yet. Can I tape on the interior seams and insulate after? Thank you in advance!!
Yes but do not air seal the home if you’re not installing an ERV to mechanically ventilate the home.
2020... found this video. I'm guessing there are other good products to use besides this tape? Also, how does everyone feel about doing this to an existing home as I'm replacing the vinyl siding?
Absolutely do not try to air seal your existing home unless you plan on demolition inside to install an ERV and all the duct work to mechanically vent the house.
If I want to buy a real fixer-upper and rehab it myself, are Joe Lstiburek's books truly essential? Any other definite must-buy books?
If it matters, I'm looking in the Louisville area, and will be doing wood construction, possibly gutting the interior and building an exterior insulation/barrier shell.
+Joshua Targownik Hey, I found this book you might like www.amazon.ca/Green-Remodeling-Changing-World-Room/dp/0865714983/ref=sr_1_10?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1459135015&sr=1-10 I haven't read it but one of the authors co-wrote the book Green From The Ground Up, which is our building science bible for said course I take at College. Joe Lstiburek is great though, definitely read his articles and watch his videos!
+Kelp Forest Thanks, I'll take a look at it.
Say tenaciously one more time M Effer!!!! -Samuel L Jackson voice
How long does the tape itself last before starting to break down?
Matt Risinger they don't sell this at home depot or lowes on on ebay. what else is almost the same I can't get at home depot or lows in California ? and question instead of tape would like silicone gun work the same
+Gerald mcneal no silicon won't do it. You can buy it online. Or use a Fluid Applied Weather Barrier product like Blue Barrier Or Prosoco RGuard (also not at those stores)
What were the results of the test?
Hey Matt would you still install this tape, if your going with 2 inches closed cell and 3 to 4 inches of open cell spray foam
No, the new school is to use Huber ZIP products, and use their ZIP tape to seal the gaps
so doesn't Grace make a Product to prevent leaks just like Ice & Water on the roof
What about all the penetrations from nailing the sheathing to studs? No need to seal those?
Not unless you miss a lot lol
What is best practice to air seal an existing home from the inside?
Never air seal an existing home unless you plan on also installing duct work throughout the hose for an ERV to mechanically vent the house.
Wouldn't the house wrap provide at least a percentage of air control at the sheathing joints? Especially combined with spray foam insulation? Just wondering if the tape really provides a significant difference with the total system.
It is a multi-layered approach. The WRB should handle the majority of the air barrier but there are certain areas where skip taping is used, which in turn can allow air flow in (granted minimal but still). It also depends on which WRB method is used and how its executed...for example, how is the subfloor/slab to mud sill transition being handled?
Have u used Vycor NEVS from grace
if we do air sealing with tap then what hapeens during winter and summer if no vapor escapes from osb
This tape is air tight but Vapor open
wont the tape peel off if there is a flood later om
Check out Matt's other Siga Wigluv video and some of the GreenBuilding Advisor blog postings. The OSB would come apart before the tape gave.
I understand the tape is tenacious.
Will mice chew through this?
Will Grace Vycor work for this
Used for roof seams?
Matt, if you use the Siga tape on the OSB seams do you still tape your Tyvek seams?....or does the Siga take the place since it takes care or the air tightness?
+kyle8114 On the building I'm doing at the moment in college we have three air control layers. It's a small detail to go that extra step of taping, but worth it in the end!
Where's Jack Black when you need him most?
why is it better to seal osb? can you just tape tyvek seams? wouldn't that give same result?
+Matt Frieda Good question Matt. I've found that Taped housewrap is generally NOT airtight. You need to follow more extreme measures including caulking the housewrap to have an "airtight" installation and even that isn't great. Taping the OSB seams is much better for airtightness.
Matt Risinger they don't sell this at home depot or lowes on on ebay. what else is almost the same I can't get at home depot or lows in California ? and question instead of tape would like silicone gun work the same
Would you do the same with plywood?
+Angela Bateman yes
would you do this in canada?@@buildshow
how does the tape stick again? lol
No exterior foam on this build?
Unfortunately, no.
what primer did you use?
I don't get it...what air is going to get through a stud? All seems obviously land on a stud so it's already air sealed.
This is a sneaky commercial for the tape. They are posing like it's a regular guy making a video.
nailing sheathing to a stud does nothing for to stop air infiltration. The joint must be sealed. Try building a stud & sheathing boat and see how long it will float.
3M All Weather Flashing Tape 8067 is half the price, Siga can't be twice as good.
On sips Tyvek is not recommended
I'd like to know the difference between 3M and Siga too. We are just about to purchase one or another. 3M looks pretty good. Any thoughts +Matt Risinger
Why don't you frame your homes using SIP's? They seen to be stronger, much better insulated, have a strong fire rating, much, muck quicker to erect a shell. Tne only down side compared to your method is the 2' bottom weatherproof seal. Enjoy your video's!
Why couldn't you just use Zip tape?.
jack black
Say Tenacious one more time...
on
Haha, taped it into wrong place :D
+Jonas Drobik Nope. The primer freshly applied has to dry for 25-30 minutes, so he put the tape on an already dry place.