6 Mistakes That Risk SNAPPING Your Carbon Frame!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 25 июл 2024
- Carbon fiber bike frames are more susceptible to damage than alloy frames. When working on, moving and storing a carbon bike, you need to be careful not to do anything that could damage, crack or even snap the frame. Here are six common mistakes that you need to avoid!
0:00 Intro
0:23 Incorrect clamping
1:50 Incorrect storage
2:56 Travelling with your bike
3:58 Exceeding weight limit
5:07 Dropping your chain
6:06 Incorrect seat post height
Useful Links:
GCN+ | Every. Unmissable. Moment. 👉 gcn.eu/9kh
Download the GCN App for free 👉 gcn.eu/app
Visit the GCN Shop 👉 gcn.eu/gcnbooks
Join the GCN Club 👉 gcnclub.com
GCN Training Plans 👉 gcn.eu/gcntp
Have you ever made any of these mistakes? 😬 Let us know in the comments below! 💬
If you liked this video, be sure to give it a thumbs up 👍 and share it with your friends!
Watch more on GCN Tech...
📹 Is 3D-Printed Titanium The Future Of Bikes? 👉 • Is 3D-Printed Titanium...
📹 Watch our Editor’s Choice Playlist 👉 gcntech.co/EditorsChoice
📹 Watch the latest GCN Tech Show 👉 gcntech.co/GCNTechShow
🎵 Music - licensed by Epidemic Sound 🎵
Small Trains - The Big Let Down
A Nifty Piece of Work - The New Fools
Sidelined - Dip Diet
Like Water or Something - Lofive
#gcntech #gcn #cycling #roadcycling #roadbike #bike #bikes #bikelife #biketech
📸 Photos - © Velo Collection (TDW) / Getty Images & © Sprint Cycling Agency
Brought to you by the world’s biggest cycling channel, the Global Cycling Network (GCN), GCN Tech is the only channel you need for all things bike tech - past, present and future.
Simply put, we’re obsessed with tech: we seek out and showcase the best in bikes, components, tech, accessories, upgrades and more from races and events, tech shows and product launches across the globe to bring you the best in road bike technology.
We’ve also got great maintenance videos to help you get the most from your bike; pro-bike tours from all the biggest races; special features and the weekly GCN Tech Show. We also take a deeper look into the future of cycling, apps, smart tech and virtual riding.
Join us on the channel and the GCN App to submit your content, vote on the latest tech and keep abreast of exciting new trends.
Thanks to our sponsors:
Pinarello Bikes: gcn.eu/Pinarello
Zipp Wheels: gcn.eu/Zipp
Topeak Tools: gcn.eu/Topeak
Canyon Bikes: gcn.eu/-Canyon
Pirelli Tyres: gcn.eu/Pirelli
Orbea Bikes: gcn.eu/Orbea
Vision Wheels: gcn.eu/Vision
Wahoo Fitness: gcn.eu/Wahoo-Fitness
Park Tool: gcn.eu/-parktool
Elite Bottles: gcn.eu/EliteBottles
Whoop Fitness: gcn.eu/Whoop
Selle Italia: gcn.eu/SelleItalia
SIS: gcn.eu/ScienceInSport
Zwift: gcn.eu/Zwift
Shimano Wheels: gcn.eu/Shimano
DMT Shoes: gcn.eu/DMT
Silca: gcn.eu/Silca
MET Helmets: gcn.eu/methelmets
Strava: gcn.eu/strava
Watch our sister channels:
Global Cycling Network - / @gcn
GCN Racing - / @gcnracing
Global Triathlon Network - / @gtn
GCN Italia - / @gcnitalia
GCN en Español - / @gcnenespanol
GCN auf Deutsch - / @gcnaufdeutsch
GCN en Français - / @gcnenfrancais
GCN Japan - / @gcnjapan
GCN Training - / @gcntraining
Global Mountain Bike Network - / @gmbn
GMBN Racing - / @gmbnracing
GMBN Tech - / @gmbntech
Electric Mountain Bike Network - / @embn 
Спорт
Have you ever made any of these mistakes? 😬
I dont have a carbon frame 😢
Clamp to the to tube? No would never do that. That would be crazy. Only thing I clamp to the top tube is my childs ”shot Gun” seat.
I didnt use protective tape between my top tube bag and the top tube which resulted in the bag rubbing and scratching the top tube leaving a small but annoying scratch.
Well, not on a carbon frame just yet...
I broke an aluminum frame by sticking the seatpost too high...
I avoid breaking my carbon frame by not being able to afford one.
Best answer!!
What's shocking is that if I add the prices of two Campag equipped customs I bought twenty years ago, it still is not enough to buy a current super bike. Bike prices are quite silly these days.
Aluminum all the way.
😂 me too
You can not afford $500-$1,000 for a used Carbon Fiber Bike? I have three or four for sale right now. Felt F3c, Cannondale Synapse and Focus. All are 10 speed and size small/52
A story I heard from a pro team mechanic; the team were getting a lot of top tube failures following crashes in the peloton. Strangely the riders weren't involved in the crash. Instead they were caught behind the crash and spent their time sitting on the top tube waiting for the road to be cleared. The frame wasn't designed to take their weight in that way and a lot of very expensive frames were ruined.
Saw that in tons of GCN videos.
I wouldn't say the frame isn't designed in that way, rather the frame is being made way too fragile in order to make it as light as possible. An aluminum or steel frame will be perfectly fine, even though it wasn't designed for it either. Just a problem with carbon fiber and the way the weave is pointed along with it being made way too thin and fragile.
@@username8644 So it wasn’t designed for it. Not arguing with anything you said but you are making the same point.
Good point.
WOW! It's scary that the frames are engineered to such specific load patterns that they become so fragile with any other load. Plus, we're talking pro rides, who weight nothing, not clydesdales.
Not using the torque wrench can really damage your bike. Mainly shattered handlebars due to too much torque on the handlebar clamp bolts.
Just ruined my Cervelo S2 by tightening the fork too tight. I thought it was loose, but it was the head tube bearing that was giving way. Anyways, the steamer tube snapped while riding and have I were putting pressure on the left foot instead of the right, I would have crashed into upcoming trafic. Want to stay alive, use a torque wrench!
Less is more. If in doubt, use torque wrench, decent sets are $50
I've cracked my sworks handlebar due to not checking the torque wrench, was actually set at 7nm, and I thought it was at 4nm, a simple double check could have saved myself a few hundred dollars...
This glossy orbea is gorgeous ❤. Also this was a helpful video! I’ve dropped a chain before and I’m terrified of it happening again but on my carbon bike this time.
@@LazyGrayF0x As some might mention, most of the bolts on bicycles are from 4Nm to 6Nm max... that is a very low torque value. So some might find it insufficient and add way more, which can and does introduce hairline cracks in carbon fibre composite parts of your bike. In fact, it can be very dangerous as well, as the now damaged weak point can fail under stress while you're riding the bike.
In the last 35 years, I've had 3 carbon bikes. I haven't taken particular care of any of them and the first was crashed twice, but none has had any issues. I have put guards on the chainstays and taped the frame where the cables might rub.
Using a lot of spacers above the stem with a short steerer plug can lead to clamping crush-cracks in the region of the lower stem bolt.
I didn't know that. hmm🤔
As someone who has steel frames, Alunminum and one carbon frame your tips are really useful. I think the chain catcher was invented for carbon frames. I like the Carbon frame a lot but worry that I will damage it beyond repair. I have also dented a Steel frame top tube by clamping it. The newer steel frames are really thin. To protect my frames I use the Silca Hirobel frame support or the Park PRS 20. I have always used dummy hubs when travelling. Thanks Alex
Frame support is a great idea! 🙌 What material do you think is best?
Chain Cat her came from MTB’s.
I had a chain catcher for my carbon frame. When the chain dropped it forced its way past the catcher under weight and could not be put back on the rings without Removing the catcher. I no longer use a catcher.
@@michaeljoseph6515 Sorry, but you installed the catcher incorrectly or the catcher you purchased was not designed correctly.
Great information ! ! ! I'll stay with my aluminum frame Specialized 2011 Allez with more than 20k kms. on it. Until now, I have not noticed any signs of metal fatigue, it brought me to a lot of places.
Why all front derailleurs don't come with a chain catcher is beyond me. I've got them on all my bikes. Another tip- when leaning your bike against a stationary object or wall position the drive side toward the wall. That way if it does fall over it won't hit on your derailleur.
💯
I had a problem with a LeMond frame on my 2007 Buenos Aires. But, it was the metal dropout that cracked. The carbon tubes that the dropouts were epoxied into were fine. Trek gave me the cost of a new frame under warranty which I applied to a 2015 Domane 5.2. It's going strong after 8 years and 25000 miles.
Sounds like you got a great deal! 🙌 Is your 2015 Domane in the bike vault? We want to see it 👉 GCN.eu/app
I have learned in February that hitting a car head on can snap my carbon frame.
Sounds like big steel propaganda tbh...
It's not too good for a steel frame either. I suspect titanium and aluminum won't fare well in this case too.
@@christopheroliver148 well, I've only tested it on carbon 😂
Yeah, it's not too good for the human body either!
I was riding a full carbon Trek bke when I was hit head-on by an SUV turning left in front of me. The only thing that broke was the carbon fork, which snapped in two right at the place where the blades attached to the steerer tube. I was uninjured. Crazy!
Thank you for your video. I was just so close to buying a carbon fibre bike but will now stay with metal. I dont need to have the lightest bike, i prefer durability. And if i want to ride lighter i have to work on my belly fat first.
Lmao "one of the 5 people that enjoy bikepacking..." shots fired!!
Bike paking is overrated.
No idea how you can't enjoy that. Love it like nothing else
I took my carbon bike on vacation for the first time this year. I used a car roof mount system where you mount the bike by the fork at the front and a strap around the rear rim. Zero clamps!
Worked like a charm. Only downside is having to put the front wheel inside the car.
Get a Thule wheel carrier too (99euro e.g. model 547001), problem solved.
Very informative video, thanks Alex.
Great tips Felix!!!Keep up the good work!
I use the top tube for my bike stand and balance the bike (Dogma F10 disc) with wheels on and only loosely close the clamp. For most jobs, that's all the grip strength I need. My stand clamp's length and my seatpost height above the frame are a bit in conflict. But great video as always, Alex!
Find away to use a seat post. The rocking end to end ....not good either...mark the seat post and don't extend beyond max height . This really applies to all bicycles reguardles of the material . Also do not trim off too much from the seat so you can safely extend to clamp it in your stand.
Didn't know about drop chain damaging the frame. I learned something new to today. Thanks GCN
Glad we could help! GCN Tech is the place to come for learning new things 🤓
Good tips here. I would add overtorqued bolts.
Yes! You have to be super careful around bolts... A torque wrench is a must 👉 ruclips.net/video/hv4oUvt3nFk/видео.html
And for the front and rear forks what is recommended? 2-3 Nm?
@@Cycle774RTFM...
There's also the maximum seatpost insertion height on bikes with a tapered seat tube, like the one in the video. The bottom of the seatpost should not touch that area. There's probably an indicator hole somewhere in the tube.
Good point. Also be careful with the seatpost too low and DI.2 front mech cables. You can cut them in some cases.
Not all seat tubes have a hole for minimum insertion check like the Roubaix SL5. I always leave 10 mm of buffer room.
very interesting, thanks.
So far I love this bike. Great quality.
Also the maximum insertion is a thing to not touch the cutout...if a person is just too small and introduces the entire seatpost it could be not complying with the manufacturer min/max insertion, in Specialized's website the Tarmac user manual is at bottom for download and reading.
I cut my seatpost since after my measurement still had a lot of tube so i got it at right measurement and comply with manual and reducuded 20 grams 😅
This is something to check for if if your seat tube is a non-straight tube. Some Cervelo's have this "problem"...you need a relief cut in the back of the post to avoid a load point on the back of the seat tube curvature. A shop I worked at had a customer bring in a used purchase that ended up with this problem (crack in the back of the seat tube), and it turns out it stemmed from improper build protocol when the bike was new. A lot of things inside bikes even when new that a lot of people are not aware of.
I use a old set of drop bars for working on my carbon frame. I just clamp the drops in the workstand and sorta hang the frame on there.
Good little tip! Do you wrap the bars so that they grip the frame a little better? 👀
Yes, I occasionally use this bar on my track bike so it does not have brake leavers, is wrapped and ready to go.
What cassette is that with the oil slick on the bigger sprockets?
Great video! When I saw that paint damage to the head tube on that one carbon fiber bike, it made me think of an idea for a video. Can you do a video on paint touchups and whether it makes sense to do it yourself or have a professional do it and relative costs? Can decals be replaced, etc?
the crazy thing about carbon fiber is that the biggest selling argument is how strong it is compared to metal......and yet we have to treat it like glass
7: not using torque wrench to tighten the bolt
How about using a car mounted bike rack that attaches at the top tube?
Getting ready for a new bike
I purchased a Hirobel Frame Clamp from Silca for my work stand and it's been amazing. Yeah, it's a bit pricy but I know that my carbon frames will always be OK.
Whoop whoop! 🙌 Stress free clamping!
@@gcntech Haha. You got it. Definitely not to be underestimated.
Even if you upgrade your carbon seatpost to an über lightweight counterpart (Darimo, MCFK, Schmolke Carbon, THM), you're all covered. 👍
I do use the top tube, but I let it rest in the clamp balanced wih its center of gravity and the upper clamp does only secure it without applying any force. An add a bit of foam cushioning.
How are aero posts clamped BTW, does that hold reliably?
BTW: I miss the overshortened steerer tube issues.
what about respecting torque on every bolt there is ? That's way common than everything listed here i believe
Yes, this. However, sometimes, if it does break even when you torqued to spec (say, your seatpost and the seatpost wedge clamp), it's not your fault.
I have one of those Y shaped two-piece carbon seat posts (it gives a bit of extra comfort on rough surfaces). It doesn't seem like a good idea to clamp to that, and most of the part that is visible is not parallel. What do I clamp on to?
What bike is this seatpost on?
New Question. I just replaced a bike and the new one has Shimano 105Di2. I live in Texas and my garage is pretty hot. What is the safe temperature range for storage? I’ve seen that it has been tested to 50C but also found long term storage recommended at 20C. It seems like it would affect a lot of riders and the fires/explosions from these new batteries are amazingly hot. Thanks. M.
lithium batteries are best kept at temperatures significantly lower than 50degC - hence I’d take them out, if not used, if at all possible
Put the batteries in the fridge😂🥶
Interesting question! One for #askgcntech and we'll be able to pick up in the tech clinic 🙌
"if you notice a that your chain is dropped off, first thing you have to do is stop peddeling immediatelly". That is a hint for every cyclist. 🙂 Otherwise you can kill a solid steelbike.
Frames are painted, so the first thing you chip or rub off is the paint. Then carbon is put on in layers of tubes - scratching one layer doesnt cause a problem same as scratching a solid metal. You just scratch some carbon tubve thats independent of other in the array. Avoid crushing or chipping carbon, surface scratching the outside layer wont do much damage.
The fear of carbon fiber imploding is vastly overrated. Don't worry, it's quite safe.
That’s under the ocean😅
@@ArcadeCODM😬
Repair carbon cost as much as brand new aluminum frame bike.
Good tips Albert 😂. When flying with my bike and using a hard case...having removed the wheels, I reinsert the through axels to give the forks etc the stability/rigidity 👍
I may be wrong but I don’t think thru axles alone would prevent crush damage.
@@enigma1000 I agree...that's why I put my bike in a hard case when I fly it but I always place the thru axels back in with the wheels removed.
Great little tip! 🙌
@@enigma1000 You're right, thru axles stop the drops pulling apart, but not from moving together. Better to get an old cheap hub and use that.
enter all the titanium, steel, manganese, all other alternate frame material lovers in the comments
I just stick with aluminum; its cheap, light, etc.
I dunno how but on day 1 setting up my Orca OMX, I dropped the chain completely off the two front chainrings and it got stuck between the frame & inner chainring. Orbea has the tightest gap there I’ve ever seen. Still don’t know how I was able to free my chain from there, but it took a very long time and was so stressful with a new bike.
Could you have just taken the crank off since you were at home?
@@johndef5075 didn’t have the tools for it at the time
You bought a 4 grand bike and didn't have a set of hex keys????
@@alan_davis a set of hex keys and ohhh yeah let’s not forget the giant torque wrench to retighten to spec. Sorry I never read the tip to have a full mechanic’s garage before buying a nice bike.
Guilty of clamping top tube. Only ever clamped very very lightly but after watching this it will be seat tube every time for me.
Meanwhile the other guy on RUclips (Jourdain Coleman I think) goes to carbon repair specialist, takes a hammer, and struggles to make a dent in carbon frame lol.
They even tried to make the top rube crack by clamping it, with force beyond excessive for any situation, and nothing happened.
Not all frames are made equal and that workstand clamp is a plastic one.
@@yonglingng5640the point is 100% valid. You've got to be a complete ape to break a carbon frame by any of the methods in this video.
Just balance the top tube in the work stand, so you don't really need much clamping force.
That's a cool colour of the frame
Question, if I may: I started cycling a few month back in order to get fit and to loose weight. I absolutely fell in love with the sport and I already lost some weight. I would like to get an upgrade of my bike, Bianchi Oltre XR4. Yes I know, a waste for my level of skill, but I absolutely love the bike and now is probably the only opportunity in my life when I can afford such a buy...Anyhow, should I be worried that XR4 frame could be damaged if I weigh ca. 116 kg? Now I am riding a mid-spec gravel bike and it's fine...Thanks in advance for you advice, mighty GCN and internet.
I am riding since many years and I am overweight: I guess you and me have less watts than the good sprinters we don’t go extremely fast down hill and do not harsh breaking thus the frame is less stressed than in a racing situation
And finally don’t buy the ultra light weight models a frame of 1200 to 1400 grams has more reserves that a 900 gramm frame
There is still a k (safety) factor of minimum 3 for a bike frame. You're fine.
Just check max rider weights for your preferred bike. I am not heavy, but I avoid frames with rider weight limits as I suspect they are pushed too far in terms of safety factors.
@BicycleForHealth Thanks for your reply. I ended up buying the Oltre XR4 and it holds up perfectly even with my higher weight.
Do a quick dive into carbon frames cracking because of using your truck's tailgate as a bike rack. This even happens with padded over the tailgate racks specifically designed for bike transport!
Did that ever happen to MTBs?
@@yonglingng5640 Yes. Just do a google search for it. There's plenty of stories. Carbon bikes aren't designed for the stress in that spot behind the fork.
This video made me check the weight limit of my specialissima. Turns out im over the limit on my own. Blimey
What about to put the bike on the back of car, on a Thule bike holder, it is almost impossible to not clam on the top tube or the down tube. Is this safe on a carbon frame? I have done it few times but I am not comfortable with it. What is your thoughts?
Safe, just don't crank it up like it's a grease covered snake and you're fine.
More you see of this video the more I like the sound of titanium !!!
Or Aluminium
I ve bikes of all materials except magnesium / my carbon frames are from the early 2000s Trek and Koga they are not ultra lightweight but real good work horses- I don’t feel sorry for people who buy the lightest and most expensive frames common sense must say that a frame of 900gr must be more fragile than one of 1300gr like my Koga or Trek (the DuraAce model from 2003)
@@danielhertercasagrande1686 Back when I got my Peter Mooneys, the hot carbon at my LBS was one of the Kestrels. I don't rightly recall the weight, but I'd guess they are a fair bit heavier than the current offerings. (Hmm... quick internet gander suggests the Kestrel 4000 was about 1.5lbs heavier than my custom steel.)
Titanium is pretty dreamy! Manon got to see how titanium frames are made 👉ruclips.net/video/bkpe7WQ2E9Y/видео.html
Trek Madone seat post doesn't have enough clearance to be clamped. What is usually the best solution for this case?
Wonder the same thing for the Domane -22?
I have the same problem on my wife bike. XXS frame and only 6cm of seat post showing. I balance the bike using the top tube at the centre of gravity point then gently tighten the closed jaws of the stand so it just encloses the frame - not clamping as such. It does mean you are limited to working on a level bike 😕
@@OlaCurtiusHirobel frame clamp or dropout-style workstand. Don't shortcut your way out of it.
Don't over tighten it and it's fine.
What about hang from top tube in rest days ?
Just a random question guys but big help for me. Im planning to buy a 2016 giant tcr advanced 1 for $900. My question is if it's still worth it in 2023. Because im thinking because its carbon and 2016 model it will not last long. Please help
Another mistake: Overtightening bolts! Esp. those of the seat post and stem. Use a torque wrench!
Mechanic's tip: tighten it till it snaps then back it off half a turn. 🙂
I know that carbon frames are durable and safe.
But every time I watch videos like these, I am happy to have an aluminum frame.
Not to mention, aluminum is better for the environment as it is fully recyclable. Broken carbon just goes into a landfill.
Do people drop chains anymore with electronic shifting? Ever since I made the change I haven’t suffered a single drop. Even chain rub is a complete nonissue, the mech just automatically trims everything out.
Seen many cracked Aluminium and carbon frames due to incorrect seatpost height. Check your Seatpost! Next thing is get a torque wrench if you work a lot on your carbon bike. Carbon really doesnt like beeing compressed and a lot of problems come from incorrect handling of your tools.
@gcntech are those 30mm Pirellis front and back on that Orca Aero? 🧐🧐
Wasn't thick-walled aluminum?
I'll add No.7: Using your carbon frame on a trainer without checking if it invalidates the manufacturer's warranty. Check on their website of google it. One tip for travelling with a disc brake bike is that you can put the through axles back in the frame, once the wheels are out, to avoid the frame getting crushed of compressed at the rear and the fork.
You can still squeeze the dropouts when the thru-axles are in, what you need is something in between to support it, like a cardboard tube (comes with new Specialized framesets) or even a junk hub.
I know because I've tried this out before.
@@yonglingng5640 Iv'e tried this too, herce the recommendation. Care to elaborate on how a junk hub reduces compression compared to the through axle?
@@julianallen515 With only a thru-axle in the dropouts, the only points of contact are the threads and the outside of the left dropout, with no support on the inner sides. When a hub is installed, it provides support on the inside of the dropouts, preventing dropout squeeze.
When I said junk hub, it can be a decommissioned hub, but still allows you to install it onto a frame mainly to provide dropout support.
Yeah, that doesn't work... it's the hub shell that prevents compression - not the through axle (otherwise your wheel would never be tight...)
Had an accident and the carbon frame seat tube fractured. Repaired by a pro. £100. Perfect job.
Always remove the derailleur when packing it up for it to be shipped.
Great little tip! Do you travel with your bike often? 👀
Clamping an Aeroad '21 edition at the seat tube?
You must be crazy.
I will stay with metal framed bikes. Metal is maleable and far more resistant to damage, it also does not fail catastrophically like carbon fibre does.
Is this comment from 2008?
@@Kid_Ellipsis Well, I'll gladly let you kick my titanium frame (1992) as hard as you want if you let me kick your carbon bike frame (life span of 10 years, not easily recyclable) Heck! I'll let you kick my 1988 steel frame!
@@grosminceyou can literally hit them with hammers. All this is BS
I like my old litespeed titanium even better now. Toughest frame material there is.
I get it folks, some carbon frames are wonderful to ride.
Handlebars striking the side of the top tube in a stationary fall is fatal?
apparently.
Bloody BB86 bottom bracket, the gap between the inner chainwheel and the frame is just perfect for jamming the chain in there so hard that the cranks have to be undone to get it out......... Doesn't happen with Shimano bb.
Shimano also manufacture BB86 BBs...
, I'm talking traditional threaded Shimano H2 bb.
I'll never buy another bb86 frame.
02:47 Could you explain again, how to lean up a bicycle? I haven‘t unterstand it completely.
When you lean your bike against a wall, make sure it's supported by three contact points: Rear wheel, saddle and handlebars
if you can’t hang the frame on any of the bars than I won’t be getting carbon bikes any time soon.
I want a frame that will last 10 years of abuse. Steel or alu for me.
Ok. I am not intentionally buying a carbon frame after seeing this video. My bikes tend to end up being abused a LOT since they are my primary and daily mean of transport in the city.
I have a 1988 steel frame, a 1992 ti mtb and a 2006 ti road bike. All with either steel or titanium forks.
And my 29 ‘’ all mountain is alu.
No carbon for me.
40 years plus of riding.
What material will you go for when looking for a daily work horse?
@@gcntecha steel city bike i dont care if it falls over
@@gcntech Probably aluminium. They are cheap, light and can take a decent amount of beating. I ride all year long and during winter there is salt everywhere. Light weight is good for accelerating at traffic lights.
@@lakotamm At the same time, so many steel frames are out there for so little money. For me either alu or steel will do, even for our harsh Quebec winters.
What kind of cassette is this? i need this
@@raginganarchist ohh okay thanks a lot man
Is it safe to haul a carbon bike from the top tube, like on a Thule rack?
I ruined my frame doing that.
It’s not ideal, but one or two short trips wont break your bike. I’ve done it and ridden tons since no issues. People treat carbon like it’s papier-mâché, but it can hang.
@@rene2584did you tighten the clamps as if your light bicycle frame was a greased weasel?!
Must say dropped chain isbthe most surprising cause, would think manufacturers would know this and reinforce it somehow🤷🏻♂️
I'm waiting for my first carbon bike (Orca OMR.), and now I'm getting worried about transporting it on a rear door bike rack. Should I completely avoid doing it?
those racks usually hold at two points, so the load is somewhat distributed, so you’re probably fine. That said, anyone else can feel free to confirm or deny.
Well, I would avoid doing it. Maybe change your car instead.
I wouldn’t do it. I have a mix of aluminum and carbon bikes. The carbon bikes go in the proper tray on the roof,,, the aluminum ones hang on the rear rack like yours. But new racks are expensive… but I wouldn’t hang a carbon frame in one…
Put some padding on it and go ride, it will be 100% fine.
Back to the good old days. Steel has none of those problems.
Aluminium/Aluminium is real.
Its cheap, light, rust proof, etc.
I would also add not paying attention to recalls! It seems like every week there is a recall for a carbon handlebar out there from a major company. And it isn't like automotive recalls where it is one person has the issue out of hundreds, a bike handlebar is a very key part of the setup unlike a seat clamp on an automotive. Torque spec is another one that is a given and not mentioned here.
Another reason against leaning your bike up against a wall is that it can press on your electronic shifter and wear down your battery since it is constantly making contact and sending a signal.
Where do I clamp if I have an ISP frame?
If your bike is a Giant, use a dropout-style workstand or a Hirobel frame clamp and strap your top tube on it while you clamp the frame clamp.
If it's a Trek Émonda and there's enough room, shouldn't be an issue clamping the seat mast since the carbon walls should be thick enough. Consult with a Trek LBS or Trek themselves if you're not too sure.
Thanks Arndt.. I put my bike behind a door.....the seat stay got smashed , expensive repair !! DOH...
We used to make sure the handlebar cables prevented handlebar strike.
I have seen many times cyclists sat down on their top tube during short sops. How safe is it for a carbon frame? Because I do it too, and I am a lightweight person
I do it all the time, as do many seasoned riders to be honest. Waiting on the start line of a race almost everyone is sat on their top tube. I’ve never seen it cause an issue
If I was presenting this, it would be titled "Six Reasons Why I Own a Titanium Bike". 😂
Sanding off the paint 🙂
Over torquing a simple water bottle cage…
Traveling with ANY case note: TSA WILL open your case! Don’t lock it and anticipate the items inside not to be repacked properly.
The last one, seatpost being put in incorrectly, is actually out of our hands when it comes to frame manufacturers using proprietary seatpost that come in only one length.
I have a 2020 Giant TCR Advanced Pro that I can't ride because Giant decreased the seat tube length 2 cm, changed the clamping system to be hidden, but put stress on the seatpost in the wrong way, and a proprietary seatpost that was too short to make up for the shorter seat tube. I got stuck going right to the minimum insertion line and broke five seatpost.
My older 2011 TCR Comp has a proprietary seatpost but a taller frame and better clamp system. Not a single issue on it.
Interesting! Have you spoken to giant about this? 👀
Tme to move to a better frame maker?
@@gcntech my bike shop dealt with the warranty department. Eventually, they just replaced the frame with a frame with an integrated seatpost. It is nice, but can't travel with it.
@@stevemawer848 my next new bike will probably be a different manufacturer if Giant doesn't change things. They did warranty the seatpost with an ISP frame set.
Is it normal to feel flexing on the seat post while riding?
My bike is designed to flex in the seat post.
Seatposts will always have some flex, it's just a matter of how much.
1:42 GCN has just invented a new carbon frame defect: SCRUSHING!
The Titan submersible guy should have watched this.
I bought an aerobike thats too big for me, had to cut the seatpost to fit me
I suppose #1 hint rules out all the stands that hang the bike from the top tube, then ? I see so many people using these with carbon frames.
Strictly speaking, yes. From what I know, it's because their clamp-style workstands aren't stable due to poor weight distribution, one of the reasons being they cheap out on it.
If the seatpost is specified not to be clamped by a workstand, you'll need to use a dropout-style workstand.
@@yonglingng5640 I was thinking about storage stands. The majority of them are screwed on the wall and hold the bike from its top tube with one big or two smaller brackets. If they are not suitable for carbon frames, that's very disturbing. I mean, almost every other cyclist has one of them.
@@perperikis5501 If it's merely hanging for storage, it shouldn't pose a problem.
I clamp my top tube using foam to cushion the force.
Do you get enough grip to work on the bike? 🛠
@@gcntech I place the foam around and then clamp gently before hand tightening the locknut. There is a danger of the frame disengaging if not tight enough and of course it can't be too tight. You are right it is safer to use the seat tube if possible.
Clamp your seatpost from now on. If it's a über lightweight carbon one like a Darimo, MCFK, Schmolke Carbon or THM, never clamp it there. Use a Hirobel frame clamp or a dropout-style workstand.
I’m viewing my old heavy aluminium MTB with newfound respect. You would have to drive over it in a tank to do serious damage.
What about sitting on the top tube? Some believe this can crack the frame and void your warranty!
Sitting on the top tube at the lights?
Silly, you have to unclip. Track stand is the way to go.
In my early days of MTB riding I snapped so many carbon frames I had barely a bike which last longer than 2k kms. At least they all got replaced within warranty, now with improved riding and technical skills they seem to last longer. I have the feeling that company's evolved their carbon frames alot, they don't seem to be that fragile like 10 years ago. I would recommend buying from a company with long frame warranty. in all my cases the carbon didn't snapped instantly there was a loud cracking sound long along with visual cracks long before anything will brake while riding
Came here fully expecting mention about not sitting on carbon frame top tubes.
Arguably, it could be an item if there’s ever an “other things you’ll see pro’s do, that we shouldn’t seek to copy”.
Albeit it looks cool, is comfortable, it’s something with substantially different connotations as a paid rider with a constant stream of free equipment, on the one hand, versus a member of the public who pays out of his or her pocket for every item they use.
As someone else referenced, pro riders can break frames all day from here until San Gennaro, no worries, seven times in the one race. (Typically) that’s not something we can emulate, and latent damage to a carbon top tube is no joke at any time, but making its presence known at the most inconvenient time, equally, could literally be fatal. ☠️
A good chance those, who claimed they have been clamping bike on top tube just fine, are the same bunch claim they have been fine riding bikes without helmets….
Yep. 🙂
Nope.
Improper bunny hopping. Land improperly, and you can snap your frame in half.
Advice on how to lean a bike against a wall properly...then puts the NDS facing the wall...so if it does go over you may need a new hanger and mech....
Yep....discovered that last week when the wind blew mine over - currently waiting for new mech hanger to arrive 😢
@@markeasey469 Ouch.... Every new bike should come with a spare I reckon, I always get one and stick it in the saddle/frame bag for all it weighs.
@barrycorney3665 Lesson learnt - I ordered 2 👍
@@barrycorney3665That's a mistake I see everybody do when they buy a new bike or frameset: Not buying a spare hanger.
Ever since I learnt about this, I always make it a point to own at least two at all times. The moment I got my new-to-me frameset last year, I went looking for a spare hanger the next day.
It's funny, this is 100% correct.
But I always put the drive side out.
I have no idea why...
I never realised how fragile these carbon thingies were. The user-friendliness was definitely sacrificed for weight
Does this mean you can’t use a bike rack which carries a carbon bike by the top tube?
Best not, I've never transported a carbon bike in that manner. The best method would be to use a roof rack like a Thule that holds the bike by the rear wheel and fork dropouts. (not sure what its model name is now, it used to be called the OutRide).
It's fine unless you have a ridiculously light frame - I do it multiple times a week for years.
Just don't be an ape with the clamping force, it only needs to be tight enough to not fall off.