Or...... I happen to have a attenuator out of a Wavetek model 3000 setting on the shelf. It's been there for years amongst a few dozen other variable attenuator assemblies. It's yours for the asking. Mike
Hi Mike. Thanks for the kind offer. if you go to the description of my channel 'Greetings and welcome to my channel, where I tinker with technology in the ...' click on more and you will find a link to show my email. send me a message
@@IMSAIGuy Out of curiosity I went back to part 6 (?) to view the complete attenuator. I noticed a difference. The one I have does not have 90 degree connectors on it. The one I have has straight connectors. Same type (I think those are SMC) just straight not 90 degree.
Years ago I had a plating kit for copper, nickel, gold and rhodium. It had separate pens for each metal, the solution solution already saturating the fibrous internals. You needed different DC voltage, some 4 to 8 V from a battery or bench supply for each metal. There was a fifth pen containing some cleaning solution. The instructions, as far as I recall said you started by cleaning the target, in case of steel applied a thin copper layer, next nickel for “hard gold”, then the gold. You could get even better, if you added over the (soft) gold a flash of rhodium. My kit was sold by a company by name of Harris, or something like that. That was way before Amazon, where you can now find similar pens and probably the required solutions. I hope this gives you one more option. . As to the voltage, you applied just enough, to get some bubbling And Then pulled a little Down to stop the bubbling. And each solution had maybe cyanide compound for enhanced surface quality. For example plain copper sulphate would not produce adequate quality.
Good job Mark...looks like you may be getting a functional attenuator from a donor. Last resort obviously simply add -40 dB externally if you need something that small but am sure you already considered that! Now I'm afraid to go turn my 3001 on! ;-) 73 - Dino KLØS
Boss, ever heard of 'brush plating' it's a variant of electro plating. That might be used to 're gold' the worn parts. Just a thought. Mike in Maryland
I have one of these. Just had to replace tantalums on the power supply busses. It's my main RF generator. One thing it lacks is a big knob to just swish the frequency back & forth to look for resonances etc. I wonder if it would be hard to put in a switch or relay to replace the slide frequency switches with a pot in a separate box?
I know, it would distort the originality of the entire instrument, but could it be a good idea to build the entire attenuator unit from scratch, trying to use good quality relays instead of slides?
"If the Wavetek was a super good instrument to begin with"... yes, I also doubt that.. But, I think I will try an umpteenth time with mine nevertheless. Good luck!
Man i love to see you doing repairs like these, it shows your deep understanding of inner workings of these instruments, duuno maybe its just me but i love to see complex instruments repair, i gotta do pretty son a repair in a Motorola 2600 that has no modulation, nothing not even on the external imput, and i haven't opened it just yet but worked on the schematic for over 6 hours and i think where de issue is, well see i will film it on my channel of course, there isn't much about the 2600 service monitor on youtube😢i will love to see your fix one of those, there are fantastic machines, i pay dearly for it and i don't regret it😅😅😅men toys...yeah😂
How about a good curve tracer add on for basic oscilloscope might be a good channel project and nowt worthy on the tinternet (except that mains transformer fingy whats a bit sh1t)
Or...... I happen to have a attenuator out of a Wavetek model 3000 setting on the shelf. It's been there for years amongst a few dozen other variable attenuator assemblies. It's yours for the asking. Mike
Most generous, hope he takes you up on that offer.
Hi Mike. Thanks for the kind offer. if you go to the description of my channel 'Greetings and welcome to my channel, where I tinker with technology in the ...' click on more and you will find a link to show my email. send me a message
@@IMSAIGuy I did a little while ago.
@@IMSAIGuy Out of curiosity I went back to part 6 (?) to view the complete attenuator. I noticed a difference. The one I have does not have 90 degree connectors on it. The one I have has straight connectors. Same type (I think those are SMC) just straight not 90 degree.
@@mikesradiorepair mine are SMA and 90. I might be able to swap the connectors over. or maybe it fits. or easy to use some right angle adapters
Years ago I had a plating kit for copper, nickel, gold and rhodium. It had separate pens for each metal, the solution solution already saturating the fibrous internals. You needed different DC voltage, some 4 to 8 V from a battery or bench supply for each metal. There was a fifth pen containing some cleaning solution. The instructions, as far as I recall said you started by cleaning the target, in case of steel applied a thin copper layer, next nickel for “hard gold”, then the gold. You could get even better, if you added over the (soft) gold a flash of rhodium. My kit was sold by a company by name of Harris, or something like that. That was way before Amazon, where you can now find similar pens and probably the required solutions. I hope this gives you one more option.
.
As to the voltage, you applied just enough, to get some bubbling And Then pulled a little Down to stop the bubbling. And each solution had maybe cyanide compound for enhanced surface quality. For example plain copper sulphate would not produce adequate quality.
Good job Mark...looks like you may be getting a functional attenuator from a donor. Last resort obviously simply add -40 dB externally if you need something that small but am sure you already considered that! Now I'm afraid to go turn my 3001 on! ;-) 73 - Dino KLØS
Bro the missing wire for the -18 volts?
Is it a camera flickering or is your 0.001 led flashing? In my wavetek it is solid red. Which one is correct?,🤔
This might be a job for PCB Way. Make a good schematic of the attenuator board and get a good gold plating on it.
Boss, ever heard of 'brush plating' it's a variant of electro plating. That might be used to 're gold' the worn parts. Just a thought. Mike in Maryland
too expensive for me
I have one of these. Just had to replace tantalums on the power supply busses. It's my main RF generator. One thing it lacks is a big knob to just swish the frequency back & forth to look for resonances etc. I wonder if it would be hard to put in a switch or relay to replace the slide frequency switches with a pot in a separate box?
I know, it would distort the originality of the entire instrument, but could it be a good idea to build the entire attenuator unit from scratch, trying to use good quality relays instead of slides?
Good RF relays are pretty expensive.
"If the Wavetek was a super good instrument to begin with"... yes, I also doubt that.. But, I think I will try an umpteenth time with mine nevertheless. Good luck!
Man i love to see you doing repairs like these, it shows your deep understanding of inner workings of these instruments, duuno maybe its just me but i love to see complex instruments repair, i gotta do pretty son a repair in a Motorola 2600 that has no modulation, nothing not even on the external imput, and i haven't opened it just yet but worked on the schematic for over 6 hours and i think where de issue is, well see i will film it on my channel of course, there isn't much about the 2600 service monitor on youtube😢i will love to see your fix one of those, there are fantastic machines, i pay dearly for it and i don't regret it😅😅😅men toys...yeah😂
I have the HP version: ruclips.net/video/j4mLM1l5M7A/видео.htmlsi=yW4ILa56I0s9LPwN
How about a good curve tracer add on for basic oscilloscope might be a good channel project and nowt worthy on the tinternet (except that mains transformer fingy whats a bit sh1t)
already did it: ruclips.net/video/oFHTOQTIi30/видео.htmlsi=4tHQRGmHFa_lENJ-
@@IMSAIGuy Churrs guy must have been before i found you!
First.
Axchually you are second, IMSAI Guy was first.
@@VV0RK True 🙂👍