Why am I not surprised that German engineering has stood the test of time and lasted 85 years? Just bought 4 Jerrycans about 25 minutes ago. Maybe being half German helps me recognize quality products.
Really good review of the humble fuel can. If I can just add one point about the Jerry Can. The pressed pattern on either side is to allow for expansion when they get hot and the fuel expands.
The Scepter NATO-spec OD Green 20L/5 Gal containers are just fantastic. I've used them for years in the bush and in the Arctic, and never, ever had a failure, cold weather or hot. They are pricey compared to the garage-grade 20 L red plastic ones, but worth every penny. Canadian Prepper did a more in-depth review of the Scepter Mil-spec 20L containers, and mentioned that over 1 million have been sold to the Canadian and U.S. armed forces.
@@jimbaritone6429 I've been looking at those. But the one issue I see is is a lack of a spout like the nice clamp on units the metal cans have. What do you use for a spout? Is there something that Scepter makes that I'm not seeing?
@@ToddKing I have 4 Sceptre cans. Sceptre makes a long flexible spout ideal for these cans that screws on. And check out jagmte in Florida. He's a guy that makes some nice accessories for the Sceptre can.
Nugar, The original or real Gerry cans when sitting on a steel floor or truck tray, sit on the bottom flat surfaces. The seam is by design set in so as not to rub. cheaper cans aren't as well thought out and when they rub the seam leaks. which you don't notice until the fuel is needed, often too late.. I always sit my cans on a piece of insertion rubber to avoid the wear and the rattles. The three handles also make tying down a little easier.
Hi mate like your show ,i 'm a series nut like yourself ! Just like to share some info ,the WD on british 'gerry ' cans means War department sometimes there is a broad arrow mark as well ,i think it changed in 50s to MOD , ministry of defence .I think the German method ie the latch and breather pipe were better than the british /American design pretty easy to lose the bung if the chain is broken . Steel cans can have paint flakes come off on the inside and through water and condensation can rust on inside especily older cans , proberly not a big issue on older petrol series but a different story on diesels ( filters and injectors ) can get cracks on the flat sides , though not reccomended for safety sake ,its possible to oxy/ acetylene weld them either steam or filling the can up with water which i have done successffully , you would'nt do it if you live near a Super cheap or Repco , i've lived and worked in remote places . I have found plastic cans cleaner to live with and the lighter weight a plus , saying that ,the Australian army still use steel gerry cans , hope i hav'nt waffled to much and like your work ! Cheers
The broad arrow or ‘crows foot’ ordnance mark has been used on British Army equipment since at least 1553 and is a helpful way of determining if everyday items are civilian or military in origin. The "W" stands for "War" then the "Crows foot" ordnance mark and finally the "D" for "Department".
Had plastic and steel Rheem made in Australia fuel cans and there going great. Can't understand why the later steel Jerry cans have a different size latch fitted. My old spout does not fit the newer ones. CRAZY. Also why the move to round fillers on all the new stuff I see thats going backwards. Love the info . CHEERS
My father, was a WWII 82nd Airborne veteran, brought a standard issue canteen back from the European theater but advised it should never be used by me to carry water....because he and his comrades carried petrol for the tanks they followed in their canteens. Still smelled of gasoline.
Only two real choices for cans for long term storage or vehicle transportation, Scepter or Wavian. The Chinese made cans should be avoided at all cost, unless you enjoy rust, leaks or the cans seam splitting. No, there isn’t a cheap alternative. Buy once, cry once. Sometimes in life you just have to pay the piper.
Forces surplus are cheaper than even the Chinese can copy them (badly) for. So no need for any crying I have some cans older than I am by a considerable margin, all ex-WD, Wehrmacht or NATO. The oldest is a WW2 Wehrmacht one from 1940, which probably came into allied possession in N.Africa and is still in perfect functional condition. I don't think I ever paid over £15 for one, the only one which failed turned out on inspection to be a very dubious copy/fake one, and none is newer than 1965. Because I used to make my own biodiesel I had a large number (some of which I've sold since) as all of it was stored that way - in batches o 100L (25 cans) which the authorities never had a problem with. I was properly registered and inspected for production for use in my own vehicles, even before they gave an exemption for that, and until then paid the duty on what I produced - a sum which must have cost them more in administrative time than it gained them in value (probably why they gave the exemption for small users).
@@phillee2814 the odds of someone form Australia, the US or Canada finding a WW2 German jerry can that's still functional and 20$ is zero. Go on Ebay, they sell for the same price as a NEW Nato Wavian can. I'm sure in the 50's, 60's, 70's and maybe even the 80's they were cheap and plentiful. Now they are not.
Hi Jenny. That is very true, however you can still get the same issue with the plastic jerry cans. however maybe not as bad as there tin/metal counterparts. Kind regards, Geoff
The US broken copy (known as the blitz can) was utterly dreadful in every way. It was held together not with welds but rolled seams, most of which lasted nearly long enough to reach service. Then the screw cap needed a special tool to unscrew it, it must have been as special as the tool that designed it. Genuine ones are probably only of value to museums, and certainly not for actual use. The original German and British copies ARE fully welded, and the internal vent pipe goes into the rear hump, which is never filled so that even when the can is holding its full 4L, it floats if dropped in water and protects the can from bursting due to hydrostatic shock because air, unlike liquid, is compressible. The side indents provide additional function in this regard, and are not, contrary to common belief, there to give seating for tie-downs. They do not work for that any better than the same tie-down would without them, and never have. The original Jerrycan or British copy will not rust, as it is coated inside and out, and the seams are well enough recessed to never rub against anything. Easy to fix by welding, as long as it is left empty for a few hours with the cap open first, and the torch is rapidly passed across the opening to burn off the fumes (they just go "woof" and are then safe to weld). I've seen it done by many race mechanics in pits and paddocks (they've become the standard for race fuel storage). I buy forces surplus - £10-£15 a pop, and I have a couple of genuine WW2 ones - one British from 1943 and the other a 1940 German one (probably entered Allied service in N.Africa). The pattern was later adopted by NATO and is still their standard - why fix what isn't broken. I will not store fuel in plastic, which degrades, abrades, cracks and splits. Btdt and never again. I guess for a couple of litres to fill a mower, brush cutter, chainsaw or strimmer it may just about suffice, as long as the only times it travels are to the nearest source to refill it. If weight was a serious factor you wouldn't be using 20L containers, would you? Oh, the other benefits of the three handles are that you can hold two in each hand when empty as well as one in each hand, or one-between-two when full, and they are easy to pass hand-to-hand when forming a human chain to unload a fuel or water delivery or reloading the truck with empties. Passing something with only one handle between people without putting it down is extremely clumsy. In case of contamination, you can even get gaskets with strainers incorporated in them for the optional spout (some fuel tank designs need it, and I have a couple). That is from my own experience, and I used to make my own biofuel, licensed by the relevant officials, here in the UK, so generally had up to a hundred litres stored at home. If the Wehrmacht, Allies and NATO all agree that they are safe for carrying by the truckload into an active warzone, that is good enough for me.
While the plastic scepter ones are high quality, spend the extra money and get one of the steel ones, it'll literally last a lifetime. If you buy cheap, you'll pay twice.
Except for the extra weight and if you dont use jerry cans everyday. Plastic is the way to go. If you get 10 years out of it for $20.. Thats a bargin. Thats 0.005c a day.. Yep that low price.
I never thought the day would come where I'd be watching a 25min video on jerry cans. But alas...here we are.
You know you've hit the big time, when you trade in your plastic cans for Wavian Jerry Cans!
@@chrismullin8304 valpro nato cans. They pour heaps faster than the plastic ones. Worth it with the 30 buck nozzle.
Why am I not surprised that German engineering has stood the test of time and lasted 85 years? Just bought 4 Jerrycans about 25 minutes ago. Maybe being half German helps me recognize quality products.
Really good review of the humble fuel can.
If I can just add one point about the Jerry Can. The pressed pattern on either side is to allow for expansion when they get hot and the fuel expands.
I believe the extra handles on the jerry cans where also used so you could grab two empties in each hand.... I may be wrong though
You are indeed correct.
They do work for that, but where designed to be passed person to person while loading or unloading them using a human chain.
I think it showed a guy doing that in the North Africa clip he showed.
Either they were empty or he had eaten a lot of steak.
Such a great research on gerry cans! Now I know it is a German design. I have learned something new again! Thanks Gerry, I meant Geoff!
nice to find video's with history.
I really, really really, really liked this video. ;). Subscribed!
Look for the Scepter plastic ones. Military, 3 handles, high quality. They also make water cans too.
The Scepter NATO-spec OD Green 20L/5 Gal containers are just fantastic. I've used them for years in the bush and in the Arctic, and never, ever had a failure, cold weather or hot. They are pricey compared to the garage-grade 20 L red plastic ones, but worth every penny. Canadian Prepper did a more in-depth review of the Scepter Mil-spec 20L containers, and mentioned that over 1 million have been sold to the Canadian and U.S. armed forces.
@@jimbaritone6429 I've been looking at those. But the one issue I see is is a lack of a spout like the nice clamp on units the metal cans have. What do you use for a spout? Is there something that Scepter makes that I'm not seeing?
@@ToddKing I have 4 Sceptre cans. Sceptre makes a long flexible spout ideal for these cans that screws on. And check out jagmte in Florida. He's a guy that makes some nice accessories for the Sceptre can.
@@canyonoverland5003 Thanks for the info. jagmte looks like they have what I need and some other cool stuff.
Nugar,
The original or real Gerry cans when sitting on a steel floor or truck tray, sit on the bottom flat surfaces. The seam is by design set in so as not to rub. cheaper cans aren't as well thought out and when they rub the seam leaks. which you don't notice until the fuel is needed, often too late.. I always sit my cans on a piece of insertion rubber to avoid the wear and the rattles.
The three handles also make tying down a little easier.
Very good tip and information there Bob, thanks for sharing
very quite interesting
Hi mate like your show ,i 'm a series nut like yourself ! Just like to share some info ,the WD on british 'gerry ' cans means War department sometimes there is a broad arrow mark as well ,i think it changed in 50s to MOD , ministry of defence .I think the German method ie the latch and breather pipe were better than the british /American design pretty easy to lose the bung if the chain is broken .
Steel cans can have paint flakes come off on the inside and through water and condensation can rust on inside especily older cans , proberly not a big issue on older petrol series but a different story on diesels ( filters and injectors ) can get cracks on the flat sides , though not reccomended for safety sake ,its possible to oxy/ acetylene weld them either steam or filling the can up with water which i have done successffully , you would'nt do it if you live near a Super cheap or Repco , i've lived and worked in remote places . I have found plastic cans cleaner to live with and the lighter weight a plus , saying that ,the Australian army still use steel gerry cans , hope i hav'nt waffled to much and like your work ! Cheers
The broad arrow or ‘crows foot’ ordnance mark has been used on British Army equipment since at least 1553 and is a helpful way of determining if everyday items are civilian or military in origin. The "W" stands for "War" then the "Crows foot" ordnance mark and finally the "D" for "Department".
Had plastic and steel Rheem made in Australia fuel cans and there going great. Can't understand why the later steel Jerry cans have a different size latch fitted. My old spout does not fit the newer ones. CRAZY. Also why the move to round fillers on all the new stuff I see thats going backwards.
Love the info . CHEERS
Video starts at 17:00
Thank youuu!!!
@@jonyjonsy also Repco sell the Wavian cans in Australia which are the best
@@peterryan7340 Roger that matey 👍😊
My father, was a WWII 82nd Airborne veteran, brought a standard issue canteen back from the European theater but advised it should never be used by me to carry water....because he and his comrades carried petrol for the tanks they followed in their canteens. Still smelled of gasoline.
Where do you store your gerry cans whilst you are on an a long journey?
Dermot Leeson we either store them on top on a roof rack or inside the rear tub where its well ventilated.
if you grab the handle furthest from you it is much easier to carry as it doesnt hit your leg over a long distance.
You are too smart for guys watching videos on Jerry cans.
Great tip.
Only two real choices for cans for long term storage or vehicle transportation, Scepter or Wavian. The Chinese made cans should be avoided at all cost, unless you enjoy rust, leaks or the cans seam splitting.
No, there isn’t a cheap alternative. Buy once, cry once. Sometimes in life you just have to pay the piper.
Forces surplus are cheaper than even the Chinese can copy them (badly) for. So no need for any crying I have some cans older than I am by a considerable margin, all ex-WD, Wehrmacht or NATO. The oldest is a WW2 Wehrmacht one from 1940, which probably came into allied possession in N.Africa and is still in perfect functional condition.
I don't think I ever paid over £15 for one, the only one which failed turned out on inspection to be a very dubious copy/fake one, and none is newer than 1965. Because I used to make my own biodiesel I had a large number (some of which I've sold since) as all of it was stored that way - in batches o 100L (25 cans) which the authorities never had a problem with. I was properly registered and inspected for production for use in my own vehicles, even before they gave an exemption for that, and until then paid the duty on what I produced - a sum which must have cost them more in administrative time than it gained them in value (probably why they gave the exemption for small users).
@@phillee2814 the odds of someone form Australia, the US or Canada finding a WW2 German jerry can that's still functional and 20$ is zero. Go on Ebay, they sell for the same price as a NEW Nato Wavian can.
I'm sure in the 50's, 60's, 70's and maybe even the 80's they were cheap and plentiful. Now they are not.
I was told having petrol in a tin can it will condensate not the plastic do you know about this ?
Hi Jenny. That is very true, however you can still get the same issue with the plastic jerry cans. however maybe not as bad as there tin/metal counterparts. Kind regards, Geoff
@@seriouslyseriesaustralia This is minimized by filling the cans to the fill line on the can, of either type.
But how do these compare to rotopax?
Good question? We will have to revisit this subject later on.
Notification Squad reporting for duty Sir..............
The US broken copy (known as the blitz can) was utterly dreadful in every way. It was held together not with welds but rolled seams, most of which lasted nearly long enough to reach service. Then the screw cap needed a special tool to unscrew it, it must have been as special as the tool that designed it. Genuine ones are probably only of value to museums, and certainly not for actual use.
The original German and British copies ARE fully welded, and the internal vent pipe goes into the rear hump, which is never filled so that even when the can is holding its full 4L, it floats if dropped in water and protects the can from bursting due to hydrostatic shock because air, unlike liquid, is compressible. The side indents provide additional function in this regard, and are not, contrary to common belief, there to give seating for tie-downs. They do not work for that any better than the same tie-down would without them, and never have.
The original Jerrycan or British copy will not rust, as it is coated inside and out, and the seams are well enough recessed to never rub against anything. Easy to fix by welding, as long as it is left empty for a few hours with the cap open first, and the torch is rapidly passed across the opening to burn off the fumes (they just go "woof" and are then safe to weld). I've seen it done by many race mechanics in pits and paddocks (they've become the standard for race fuel storage).
I buy forces surplus - £10-£15 a pop, and I have a couple of genuine WW2 ones - one British from 1943 and the other a 1940 German one (probably entered Allied service in N.Africa). The pattern was later adopted by NATO and is still their standard - why fix what isn't broken.
I will not store fuel in plastic, which degrades, abrades, cracks and splits. Btdt and never again. I guess for a couple of litres to fill a mower, brush cutter, chainsaw or strimmer it may just about suffice, as long as the only times it travels are to the nearest source to refill it. If weight was a serious factor you wouldn't be using 20L containers, would you?
Oh, the other benefits of the three handles are that you can hold two in each hand when empty as well as one in each hand, or one-between-two when full, and they are easy to pass hand-to-hand when forming a human chain to unload a fuel or water delivery or reloading the truck with empties. Passing something with only one handle between people without putting it down is extremely clumsy. In case of contamination, you can even get gaskets with strainers incorporated in them for the optional spout (some fuel tank designs need it, and I have a couple).
That is from my own experience, and I used to make my own biofuel, licensed by the relevant officials, here in the UK, so generally had up to a hundred litres stored at home. If the Wehrmacht, Allies and NATO all agree that they are safe for carrying by the truckload into an active warzone, that is good enough for me.
Brazed joints ! Not welded on the earlier cans.
Speak faster I can feel myself ageing.
You can play back faster (or slower). Listening at 1.5x right now.
While the plastic scepter ones are high quality, spend the extra money and get one of the steel ones, it'll literally last a lifetime. If you buy cheap, you'll pay twice.
Bet you don't with the Scepter milspec ones.
@@chrisp5710 Steel Jerry's all day.
Except for the extra weight and if you dont use jerry cans everyday. Plastic is the way to go. If you get 10 years out of it for $20.. Thats a bargin. Thats 0.005c a day.. Yep that low price.
Gerry made the best cans ever. Copied by Johnny, Tommy, Pierre, Gino, and many others.
Like your Land Rover.
The British captured Americans during WWII?
I think you should practice your presentation more. Keep at it.