Any suggestions for a metal-wrapped entry door doing the same? I assume I'll have to sand/trim the top, but how to get a clean level trim? Trim router comes to mind.
If scraping floor, dont remove the door. Try shims on lower door hinge. No removal/sanding necessary. WHERE to add the shims makes a huge difference. 1) on the bottom hinge, obviously 2) Door scrapes floor a) ...within first 45 degrees of opening swing i) shim between hinge and door b) ...beyond 45 degrees of opening swing ii) shim between hinge and jamb (framing that hinge is mounted to)
"With hand sanding it's probably about an hour". It took me 90 minutes the 80 grit I had laying around ... but didn't have to take the door off the frame :O
Nice! One thing I seriously need some advice on, is how to increase the pressure of a exterior older door on newly installed weather stripping. I thought that the door’s old weather stripping was just old and compressed, which it was. Sadly the new stuff isn’t thick enough to provide a proper seal. I’m hoping that there is a solution without needing to replace the entire door/frame … not that my wife would object, but for a back door, seems a waste.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter tried that -thanks, it was the first thing I did after seeing your video. I think the door is just too loosey goosey (30 year old build). Even with the deadbolt in place the door needs that extra “push”. My thinks new door & frame … alas
Always good to seal all 6 sides of a door, which this video is not about, but still important. New doors have warrantee printing that states the same. Wood will absorb moisture.
Great video! After trying your recommendations, I am still facing the same issue. The issue is with the door rubbing at the top right corner of the door frame, but looking at the door when it is closed, I see a couple more issues: 1. Top right corner: The gap between the top of the door and the frame on the lock side is narrower than the gap closer to the hinge. This is also where the door is rubbing against the frame. 2. Bottom left corner: The gap between the door and frame on the hinge side is narrower at the bottom than the gap near the top. 3. When the door is closed, there is less of a gap between the inside of the door frame (stop) and door at the bottom. It is rubbing here as well, just not as bad. Does this sound like my door or frame is warped? I really can't make sense of what else it could be unless there is something wrong with the bottom hinge. Hope you can help!
Your are so informative & helpful. My 20 year old standard vinyl windows won't open/slide up. (Likely, because of not being used for years.) They haven't been painted. How would you fix the problem? Thanks for your videos.
You can see a big bow in the top jamb. I would have popped off the top stop and tried sucking it up with a screw first. Sanding the door would be my second choice as now the top of the door has a curved dip in it.
Good observation Dale. I cut the part of the video out where I discuss the framing issue. The door is under a poorly framed basement drop where the 2x4 is sagging down.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Yeah, I knew that wasn't your home by the janky looking lack of casing. I'm sure this fix is fine for 99 percent of the world - if it was your place I know you would have done it right.
although most of the time when it's bowing down like that in an older place, it is because of the header above it is deflecting after many decades and pushing down the top jamb. Might or might not work to put a screw through it, good chance whatever above it pushing down though. Now will have to re caulk and paint either way. Easier to just sand the door, I don't think that 1/8'' off in the middle would be noticeable at all when door is open.
Great tips! Any advice for door gaps when light comes through the door stop molding without taking all moldings off and directly fixing the frame? I painted one side of the frame already and didn’t want to remove and repaint haha
Will this also work if the door is rubbing on the bottom? The wood floor on my back door bowed up a little, causing the door to rub on the scuff plate in the middle and I think the scuff plate is screwed down properly.
I can't speak for anyone else but as soon as you drive a screw up through that head jamb you have to deal with the consequences if it doesn't just straighten out the way you want. Who knows what's hidden up there, and sure it takes longer to pull the door and sand it down but at least there should be no surprises.
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Great advise like always, doors are definitely one job that are crazy hard to get right
Give this guy a TV show
I tried all the things for adjusting the door from your other vids and am gonna sand my door now haha
Brilliant thank you sir!
Appreciate these videos you're putting out. Really useful 👍
Thanks buddy
Any suggestions for a metal-wrapped entry door doing the same? I assume I'll have to sand/trim the top, but how to get a clean level trim? Trim router comes to mind.
If scraping floor, dont remove the door.
Try shims on lower door hinge. No removal/sanding necessary.
WHERE to add the shims makes a huge difference.
1) on the bottom hinge, obviously
2) Door scrapes floor
a) ...within first 45 degrees of opening swing
i) shim between hinge and door
b) ...beyond 45 degrees of opening swing
ii) shim between hinge and jamb (framing that hinge is mounted to)
"With hand sanding it's probably about an hour". It took me 90 minutes the 80 grit I had laying around ... but didn't have to take the door off the frame :O
Nice!
One thing I seriously need some advice on, is how to increase the pressure of a exterior older door on newly installed weather stripping.
I thought that the door’s old weather stripping was just old and compressed, which it was. Sadly the new stuff isn’t thick enough to provide a proper seal. I’m hoping that there is a solution without needing to replace the entire door/frame … not that my wife would object, but for a back door, seems a waste.
What about tweaking the tab on the strike plate out a bit?
@@TheFunnyCarpenter tried that -thanks, it was the first thing I did after seeing your video. I think the door is just too loosey goosey (30 year old build). Even with the deadbolt in place the door needs that extra “push”.
My thinks new door & frame … alas
Richard T there is different types of weather strip, perhaps you can find a thicker one… or feed the door some pizza and beer for a few weeks😂
@@TheFunnyCarpentersadly the pizza trick only works on me! I once had a 6 pack look … now I have more of a keg look …
Always good to seal all 6 sides of a door, which this video is not about, but still important. New doors have warrantee printing that states the same. Wood will absorb moisture.
I'd say nah. Every door I've ever seen in new construction has not been painted top or bottom.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter and that's what I get to adjust constantly! lol. its job security for me.
@@thewendyjazzyshow7361 I always paint at least one coat on top.
Great video! After trying your recommendations, I am still facing the same issue. The issue is with the door rubbing at the top right corner of the door frame, but looking at the door when it is closed, I see a couple more issues:
1. Top right corner: The gap between the top of the door and the frame on the lock side is narrower than the gap closer to the hinge. This is also where the door is rubbing against the frame.
2. Bottom left corner: The gap between the door and frame on the hinge side is narrower at the bottom than the gap near the top.
3. When the door is closed, there is less of a gap between the inside of the door frame (stop) and door at the bottom. It is rubbing here as well, just not as bad.
Does this sound like my door or frame is warped? I really can't make sense of what else it could be unless there is something wrong with the bottom hinge.
Hope you can help!
Your are so informative & helpful. My 20 year old standard vinyl windows won't open/slide up. (Likely, because of not being used for years.) They haven't been painted. How would you fix the problem? Thanks for your videos.
I would try to use some wax cooking paper on the window parts that rub together.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter will do. Thanks
You can see a big bow in the top jamb. I would have popped off the top stop and tried sucking it up with a screw first. Sanding the door would be my second choice as now the top of the door has a curved dip in it.
Good observation Dale. I cut the part of the video out where I discuss the framing issue. The door is under a poorly framed basement drop where the 2x4 is sagging down.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Yeah, I knew that wasn't your home by the janky looking lack of casing. I'm sure this fix is fine for 99 percent of the world - if it was your place I know you would have done it right.
So you’d cause the customer some repainting to try something which might not and probably will not fix the problem before just easing the door?
@@0000kris0000 SO MUCH repainting. How dare I suggest a different fix....
although most of the time when it's bowing down like that in an older place, it is because of the header above it is deflecting after many decades and pushing down the top jamb. Might or might not work to put a screw through it, good chance whatever above it pushing down though. Now will have to re caulk and paint either way. Easier to just sand the door, I don't think that 1/8'' off in the middle would be noticeable at all when door is open.
Nailed It 🦾
Thanks Mark
I have hollow doors, so is reinstalling the frame hinges 1/4 inch lower an alternative solution?
Great tips! Any advice for door gaps when light comes through the door stop molding without taking all moldings off and directly fixing the frame? I painted one side of the frame already and didn’t want to remove and repaint haha
Would it make sense to paint or seal the top of the sanded door in order to retain any current moisture/lack of moisture?
yes, good to prime it.
No I don’t think so. It’s common practice to not paint the top of a door.
A rasp works good also.
Awesome playlist, thanks
After you break the edge with the sandpaper, do you paint the broken edge? I would think it would be important
I would definitely put a coat of paint on it.
Thanks again bud!!!!
thanks bro im gonna sand the top of my door i appreciate the help you're awesome
What are the reasons this happens ?
Will this also work if the door is rubbing on the bottom? The wood floor on my back door bowed up a little, causing the door to rub on the scuff plate in the middle and I think the scuff plate is screwed down properly.
Yes it will.
Cam I sand down the door frame top as I have a metal door
May i ask why you didn't work on the frame instead of the door? I mean it's clearly the frame sagging in the middle.
I can't speak for anyone else but as soon as you drive a screw up through that head jamb you have to deal with the consequences if it doesn't just straighten out the way you want. Who knows what's hidden up there, and sure it takes longer to pull the door and sand it down but at least there should be no surprises.
@@alehut You don't just drill screws in somewhere. You find the cause of the sagging.
Thank you
Great advice , same thing came to mind but still dont you have paint the parts you uncovered by sanding ??
I would have done a coat of paint to seal it all together,
Would a planner sander work faster?
Thanks! 🛠🙂
Thanks so much!!!!
Thank you but I guess it's not easy way regular people!
And I have a door to deal with.
If u need a sander with some 40 grit paper, I know a guy in your area😂
I wouldn't tolerate a cameraman with attitude
He works for cheap😂
😎😂😎😂😎
👍🏻🍻🍺🍕
This is not a tip
Can we do it without removing
Yes