OMC Cobra Volvo Penta SX Holley Marine Carburetor Rebuild
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2017
- After searching RUclips, without success, I'm finally offering a complete marine carburetor rebuild walk-through! I cover everything on this one, so bring your pop-corn--it's an hour long video. This video is specific to marine carburetors!
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Thanks for this video! I have a '92 OMC with a 4175 spread bore carb but the basics were the same and this helped me out a ton
Thanks. It'd been a long time since I rebuilt mine and I added a check ball to the inlet. Your video helped me diagnose why I wasn't getting any fuel. Not supposed to be a check ball in there.
Glad it helped
Just wanted to say great job on the video! You are a great teacher, your instructions are clear and easy to follow. Successfully rebuilt mine this weekend thanks to you.
Thanks so much!
Thanks to your video, I just rebuilt my first Holley Marine carburetor. I couldn’t have done it without your tutorial. Many thanks!!! 👍🏼
Thanks so much for your comments!
Excellent! I have the same carb on my Mastercraft. Tearing down and repairing mine myself saved me from the second happiest day of a boat-owners life. Thank you sir! Nicely done.
Where did you get your kit I have same exact kit as he does and I can’t find the kit anywhere
Mike, your a great instructor. Take your time, thorough explanations. Our engine is a 1990 5.7, carb has never been apart. I religiously use stabilizer to avoid the alcohol problems. Trying to keep the old OMC's running is challenging. Bryan
Thanks Deborah! Lucky for us the new rebuild kits are designed with alcohol resistant rubber. When you order a rebuild kit, try and make sure it's a newer kit. There are still a lot of late 90's to early 2000's rebuild kits around, which simply put, won't last with ethanol. I have a lot more videos to publish and you will love them. I'm talking issues people will run into every season. Have a good day!
All the helpful tips and heads-ups you give are awesome. 👍
Thanks so much for the comments!
I really like how you compartmentalized all the components
Thanks and don’t forget to subscribe!
The small metal bracket on the primary metering block is there to limit fuel slosh from the the float bowl to the bowl vent. This is a marine application and boats are up and down all the time. That tube between the metering block and the throttle body is feeding fuel to your accelerator squirt jets. Good work man, Holley carbs are cool! J.
4 year old video but it helped me a lot! THANK YOU for taking the time to make this!!
Hi Michael, thank you for your Video, I’m not sure if I am placing my comment in the right place. However I have a question. I just rebuild my carburetor which is identical to the one that you showed him your video. My boat is a 91 SeaSwirl Striper with a 5.8 OMC Cobra. My floats were a little different as far as the number stamped on the top. I had an A33for my primary and A80 for my secondary, Although they were reversed when I first took them out. I just installed the carburetor in my boat to try to test it, and noticing the smell of gas while cranking. Thinking now it should start any moment, I looked back and saw gasoline splattering out of the top of the carburetor through the choke flap. I propped it open to see how far it would shoot out, but it only did that when I had the choke flap closed. Inevitably I’m flooding the engine and it won’t start. My question is during my rebuild what could you have imagined I might’ve done wrong so that I can go back and correct it quickly. I’m supposed to take the boat out on Friday for a halibut trip which has already been postponed two weeks because of repairs. Now in the red zone, appreciate any feedback you can give.
@@danliening5466 Hi Dan - You did post this under my comment so I am not sure if Michael will see it. It sounds like your carb may need float adjustments? The float should shut off the gas flow once a certain level in the float bowl is reached. There are several Holley adjustment videos that may help? Here is one of several I found helpful: ruclips.net/video/bv9NIIJ3rFc/видео.html I hope this helps. Bill
Bro I have the exact same carburetor on my bayliner 5.8 capris…. Was looking for a good removal and repair video… you nailed it… long but much needed thoroughness!!!!!
I did get sleepy for a sec there…. But any monotone does this to me….
Thanks a ton… earned a subscriber from me
Thanks man! It’s a tough balance staying excited about rebuilding a carburetor.
@@michaelromer2016 lol
Excellent job, very well explained.
Thanks Mike, my carb wasn’t quite the same but, most points made in the video applied to mine.
This video is so helpful!!! Thank you so much!!!
Thanks so much for your comments!
Great video! just what i needed to assist me!
Legit! Nicely done. Super helpful
Thanks so much for your comments!
Really appreciate that you took the time making this fantastic video. Thanks!
I had a threaded fuel inlet, Used a tapping, longer inlet repair fitting. Thought I got all the aluminium out but clearly didn't. Went out and it was good for about an hour. Now the float is stuck wide open so the fuel is just hosing in. Wish I had seen this video first. I was being cheap / Lazy and trying not to remove the fuel bowl. Thanks to this video,I now have the confidence to pull it down and search for the foreign fragments. Hope they diddn't destroy anything.
Thanks for your very nice comments!
Rebuilt mine last night. Thanks for the video, I had it playing right next to me as I did it. Would have been lost without it.
Trevor Fox Fantastic!! Thanks for your comments. Let me know if you have other questions
The only part I messed up on was not counting the turns before removing the idle screws from the metering block. Any advice on what would be a good start?
That ok! They have to be fine tuned anyway. Turn the primary and secondary air mixture screwed clockwise until closed. Back them both off, counter clockwise 1.5 turns. That is your starting point at idle. Now to fine tune it further, which requires you to turn the screw even more counter clockwise or in some cases clockwise. Here's the trick to knowing which way to turn the screw from there: do you smell gas? Yes, you are too rich, turn the screw clockwise. Is it stumbling (too lean)? Yes, turn the screw counter clockwise. Always start with the primary screw first. Try to set the secondary while you are on the water for best results. How long does this take to get dialed in perfect? 2-3 boat trips, and 20-30 minutes of out of the water testing
Thanks again! I'll give it a shot
Rytdyeydyyrydrryyrryrydydyryeyyyryyeyryydryydurydrryrydydyryrydryryyrydyydryeyryryddyrdy
Great presentation!
Thanks so much!
Your videos are awesome. Helped me so much with the trim pump and some other parts. Holley power valve question: Same boat/motor as yours. Had a bad power valve and replaced JUST the power valve with the rebuild kit. Runs good, but immediately and forever after lost about 10 mph. Have not messed with a Holley since the Regan Administration, but remember power valves could do that. What value did you put in your boat 2bbl?
Very helpful video, easy to follow. After completing the rebuild, I'm experiencing fuel dumping into the carb on the secondary side, and I mean flowing like a river. I double checked that I had the float assembly correct and I do. Any thoughts on what might be causing this? Maybe a bad float? Or is there a float adjustment I'm missing?
awesome video and walk through. I have a 1989 Ski Challenger with a 351w the stamps says E8JL-9510-ca i've tried looking online and all I seem to find is a kit similar to the kit i need not not the exact. I find kits with model E8JL-9510-DA (not CA like I need) any advice with this to get me going in the right direction?
Perfekt! 👍👌
Thanks!
Hello Michael Romer,
Thanks for the video.
Quick question why does my float bow leaking gas a little outside of the bow on top for the front and rear bow?
Just getting started on mine. Thanks for the video.
Awesome vid 👌 thx
Thanks!
Ok, my bad. It is the secondaries vacuum diaphram I'm talking about as far as the ball bearing goes. At 32:13 when you point your finger at the vacuum port, that is where there is a ball bearing in mine. I didn't put it in there, it was there when I opened it up. Is it supposed to be there like maybe a check valve or something?
Hi Michael, thank you for your Video, I’m not sure if I am placing my comment in the right place. However I have a question. I just rebuild my carburetor which is identical to the one that you showed him your video. My boat is a 91 SeaSwirl Striper with a 5.8 OMC Cobra. My floats were a little different as far as the number stamped on the top. I had an A33for my primary and A80 for my secondary, Although they were reversed when I first took them out. I just installed the carburetor in my boat to try to test it, and noticing the smell of gas while cranking. Thinking now it should start any moment, I looked back and saw gasoline splattering out of the top of the carburetor through the choke flap. I propped it open to see how far it would shoot out, but it only did that when I had the choke flap closed. Inevitably I’m flooding the engine and it won’t start. My question is during my rebuild what could you have imagined I might’ve done wrong so that I can go back and correct it quickly. I’m supposed to take the boat out on Friday for a halibut trip which has already been postponed two weeks because of repairs. Now in the red zone, appreciate any feedback you can give.
A small flat head screw driver bit works fine on the clutch head screws. They are not that tight. Just get one that fits close.
Question. At 35:10 when you separate the primary, Is there a trick besides the razor blade? I cant seem to separate mine.
Well done. Carbs are a pain.
Thanks for your comments!
I build and rebuild carbs for a living and i dont think they are a pain at all! Pretty simple once you get to know all the components.
Hi Michael, I ran into your videos trying to figure out my problem. I have a 1989 4.3L omc cobra. It starts right up, may stall but gets going 20-30 mph but within a 1/2 mile it seems to lose power and if I take it to neutral, it regains and I can cruise again. Eventually though, she'll start to stall and not wanna start easily. Then goes sluggishly and finally just turns but won't start. She left me stranded heading towards NW towards the San Juan islands, but was rescued. Then the next day she'll start right up again.
Here are some facts:
1. New Battery and new backup battery both fully charged
2. Electric fuel pump replaced mechanical and I've tested it and it works fine.
3. New starter motor works great.
4. I just replaced the voltage coil because 4 yrs ago it did the same thing and replacing the voltage regulator fixed it but not this time. ***One weird thing is the coil said it needs a 12 volt resistor which I"m assuming there one already in there but I bought one just in case but haven't installed it.
5. It stays cool as the temp gauge shows.
6. The oil look great not weird coloration.
It's baffling me as I can't figure it out. Could it be the position sensor? I'm not even sure which one it is as it doesn't look like the ones O'reillys has. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Did you ever get this one running? Really need to start with fuel, then move to spark. Please subscribe
@@michaelromer2016 Yeah it was the thermostat. I posted the same on nextdoor and someone locally responded with that fix. However a few months later, she started stalling and would cruise but going to working sluggish and stall again, until the starter just said "jeeeee"; so I switched batteries but same. Found out there was water in some of the spark plugs. So water leak maybe in the risers, manifold or even the thermostat? What do you think I should check first or is the most common?
@@talquinbiker is there water in the motor oil?
@@michaelromer2016 I think so but it looked normal. I always keep my eyes on the temperature gauge when cruising and it didn't overheat at all.
I got a leak coming out the top of the bowl at the plug that is pressed in. Any way to fix other than pull it and seal it in?
Where did you get your rebuild kit?
which way should my start rotate the engine on my Mastercraft 1989 351
Great, great video! I'm getting ready to "try" to tackle this rebuild on the same Holley marine carb. Any tips for how to remove heavy rust from the carb?
There are some parts that will rust on the side of the carb (that I have seen), but heavy rust is going to be tough. I'd use a wire brush (stainless steel) once you have it completely taken apart.
Michael Romer hi. I have an 88 OMC Chevy 350. Would I see any improvement if if add a carb spacer ? Or would you recommend doing it? Thanks
Does everyone have that little sloped black piece at the top of the metering block? Because mine doesn't. It's from a 1989 OMC 4.3 Chevy.
Do you happen to remember where you got the and what the number is? I have exact same carb
I have a 4160 4bbl on my 1996 4.3 V6 Volvo Penta Marine engine. I'm having issues with idling not being smooth! Adjusting mixture screws, timing, new plugs, plug wires, dist cap, rotor hasn't remedied the problem. So carb probably needs rebuild?
I'd recommend you rebuild yours--especially if it is original.
Where did you buy the kit from?
Great video Mike. I'm just curious about the clutch head tool. Do you know if the marine 4160 is different than a non-marine model and if so, does the non-marine model not have the clutch-headed screws? I know this question is quite convoluted but years ago I rebuilt a few Holley's and don't remember having to use the tool. Thanks, Mark
I've seen 4160s with clutch-heads. In fact you can find them at Autozone. They are in a package with other multi-type bits.
I've seen other non-marine use them. As for the clutch-head, they sell them at AutoZone. They come in a set with other bits like Phillips, flat heads--like an accessory pack.
Thanks for the videos. They are great. One question.
I have the 2 barrel version of this marine carburetor.
Your "primary bowl" is the only bowl on my carburetor.
There is a hole right behind the fuel inlet for that primary bowl. It looks like a plug goes in that hole.
When I ordered a new bowl I don't think it came with the plug in that hole. When I hooked it up to
my engine, fuel came blasting out of that hole. Do you know anything about that hole / plug that I am
talking about? Like how to replace it, buy one, install it, etc. Thanks again for all the info on the OMC Cobra stuff
even if you don't have an answer for this question. You're really helping me out in my pursuit to restore my boat.
EDIT: Well, I just realized that the hole that was leaking fuel out of my carburetor, is the hole that you put the transfer tube
in, to connect to your secondary bowl. So I guess I need to order a plug to plug that hole since mine is only a 2 barrel.
Now, I'll have to find that little part I guess. I'm just really surprised that it wouldn't have come with the new fuel bowl
that I ordered. Very frustrating. Thanks again,
UPDATE: turns out that I was sent the fuel bowl for the 4 barrel version even though I ordered the 2 barrel version. Summit racing agreed to send me the correct one in a few weeks and I can send the 4 barrel - incorrect one - back to them for no charge. SO we'll see!
Take a look at this video. Does your carb. look like this one? ruclips.net/video/vQar_UJk1gs/видео.html Part 2
All good.
Excellent video. Thanks for taking the time to record it. I am working with a 1998 5.7GS Volvo-Penta with a Holley 4bbl. However, it is a spread bore. Aside from that, is the procedure basically the same?
Tha carb is dripping gas into the starboard primary bore. Is there anything to watch for in the rebuild that could be a likely cause?
Thanks again.
The fuel now a days is so bad for the 90s the carb. I recommend an entire rebuild. Rebuild the entire carb and it will perform a lot better!
@@michaelromer2016 Thanks. Is a spreadbore basically the same procedure?
It's the same, just the base is different. Consider holley 70334 for spreadbore.
@@michaelromer2016 Perfect. Thanks so much!
That Brass night it is how you adjust your float in the bowl
I have 2 kinds of holly carbs and the one that is on my truck dozens have adjusting screw
Do you ever wipe your gaskets down with grease as you put it together? I have with off road vehicles and dirt bikes.
For boats, only use marine gasket compound for seals. It keeps the seals from drying out.
Bought a brand new 4160 marine carb secondary vacuum is dumping fuel in after i shut it off and when i deacceleration too.. and drips in at a idle so it floods bad cant start back up for hours omc 460 big block
You definitely need a rebuild on that one!
One more question for you Mike. When removing the accelerator pump and taking it apart, the port where you hold your finger over for testing...mine had a ball bearing resting in the port on the inside. Is that supposed to be there? And I cannot get the pump to hold a vacuum when testing it if I put it back together with the ball bearing in the port. And is there a gasket in addition to the diaphram on this pump?
The ball bearing is suppose to be there, including a tab securing it in place; Check out 16:51. Please keep in mind there is another diaphragm at 29:36. That one is involves a go/no-go test. Just an FYI it is a pain and you will have to work hard to get it perfect aligned--it took me 30 plus minutes my first time. If it doesn't hold vacuum, you can't reinstall it. Take your time on it and check for tears in the rubber.
michael
great video.
thank you
hoping for some help on my 1992 ski natique.
just had a guy rebuild the holly carb.
starts ok, idols fine at 1000 rpm, but once i throttle up it wants to die, unless i hammer down and get it to 3000 rpm.
once it is above 2800 or 3000, it runs like a champ.
any ideas of why she won't run between about 1200 and 2800 rpm?????
thank you sir
ken madsen It's likely your secondary fuel/air set screw is configured perfectly, the primary is off. You fuel/air mixture is off. You are likely running too rich. Turn the primary and secondary air mixture screwed clockwise until closed. Back them both off, counter clockwise 1.5 turns. That is your starting point at idle. Now to fine tune it further, which requires you to turn the screw even more counter clockwise or in some cases clockwise. Here's the trick to knowing which way to turn the screw from there: do you smell gas? Yes, you are too rich, turn the screw clockwise. Is it stumbling (too lean)? Yes, turn the screw counter clockwise. Always start with the primary screw first. Try to set the secondary while you are on the water for best results. How long does this take to get dialed in perfect? 2-3 boat trips, and 20-30 minutes of out of the water testing.
ok
there are only 2 screws, one on each side at the front, and i have played with turning them a little bit.
right now they are at 1.5 turns out.
other than the idle screw, is there some other screw?
Those three are it. Those settings (1.5 turns) will get you to idle and too at least 2K RPMs. If your issue still exist, consider a bad carburetor rebuild took place or you are having a fuel delivery issue. This includes your fuel pump/clogged filter.
Michael: do you have a video or know of a video on adjusting / troubleshooting the carburetor? I have the 2 bbl Holley on my 4.3 GL. Cannot get the engine to start after doing an overhaul (will fire on starter fluid or gas down the throat). Have plenty of gas flowing from the fuel pump to the carb, but I don't see how to check the bowl, adjust floats, etc.
Everything ran just fine when I winterized it last year. Even started fine this year after dewinterizing. Trouble occurred after pulling & reinstalling the engine.
When I say overhaul - I pulled the engine to remove the broken starter bolt and decided to replace water pumps, starter, gimbal, seal, ignition system, etc while I had the engine out. No internal engine work or carb work.
I would do a simple test. You can turn the motor over to pressurize the fuel line and take off the flame arrestor. Without trying to further start the motor, stare down into the 2 barrels and rotate the throttle. You ought to see the butterfly valves open and fuel spray. If you don't see any fuel spray, you likely have a clog somewhere--maybe in the carb. If that simple test fails you will need to take your carb apart to clean the internals with carb. cleaner--at which point, you ought to just rebuild it. The new rebuild kits will support ethanol fuel, not E85.
Great video. Quick question, though, since we seem to have identical carbs. That nipple that you have plugged up, what does it go to? Mine is just open. I assume a vacuum line would connect to it for some applications, but can't find much information. My engine runs fine, so I'm not going to tamper with it, just curious what it's for. Thanks
That red line is an overflow line that feeds back to the mechanical fuel pump. It gets plugged up. The line typically cracks quickly and never lasts. I recommend plugging both ends.
@@michaelromer2016 thank you :)
I have a Cobra 5.0 with a 2bbl Holley carb (80382-2) The boat ran before I did the carb rebuild it would just stall on idle until it was warmed up. I did a complete carb rebuild and put the carb back on the engine and tried to start it and it won't start now. I tried cranking it for several minutes, nothing. Pumped the throttle, can see the accelerator pump is spiting gas in the carb, but still will not start. I set the idle screws at 1.5 turns also. Any thoughts or suggestion on how to get it started? Do I need to pour some gas down the carb at first to get the bowl to fill up with gas to start the first time maybe?
Andy, take off the bowl and see if there is fuel in it. If it is empty, your not pumping anything into it. If the bowl is empty, check your fuel pump pressure. From there are the floats, if they aren't rising, they aren't going to allow fuel to flow. The biggest source of issues I find is a piece of debris is stuck somewhere.
I suggest you take it all apart again and use this www.amazon.com/Berryman-Products-996-Chem-Dip-Carburetor/dp/B00DSMEL2A/ref=asc_df_B00DSMEL2A/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312176482001&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13222049258030009846&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028253&hvtargid=pla-714363490952&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=68995954464&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312176482001&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13222049258030009846&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028253&hvtargid=pla-714363490952
And this www.amazon.com/Acarte-Carburetor-Cleaner-Cleaning-Needles/dp/B072JVQ5DT/ref=pd_aw_fbt_263_img_2/141-4114978-1252325?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B072JVQ5DT&pd_rd_r=48fe554c-a0e0-4af9-8528-656d0a62a2d0&pd_rd_w=MMSHP&pd_rd_wg=RpZ7D&pf_rd_p=3ecc74bd-d08f-44bd-96f3-d0c2b89f563a&pf_rd_r=ZE56WG4YK8YFWXKHBEQH&psc=1&refRID=ZE56WG4YK8YFWXKHBEQH
Hi Michael, my vacuum secondary isn’t working properly. I put a new diaphragm in but will not open up when i need the power above 3200 rpm. I can’t figure out what is causing that. You have any ideas?
That diaphragm goes bad all the time, plus most don't rebuild it correctly either. I'd rebuild the entire carb. It will allow for newer fuels.
Ok thanks. I will do that. Appreciate your response
At time 43:33, what is the little black plastic piece called? I have a Marine Holley carburetor. Didn't see that come off when I rebuilt my carburetor recently.
Also on top of power valve, is a screw that screws into the metering block. Which part is that?
Mike, I have a mid 70s 4160 marine carb that has springs in the primary bowl bolt holes that the bowl screws thread into, in place of long bolts. they are seized in the main body of the carb so i cannot remove the metering block. any ideas?
michael guyor I have a 4160, let me check it out and get back with you.
Alright for this you are going to have to penetration oil. Let it sit for day. They spray it again. They try and remove it. If that fails there is another option which involves heat and it is very risky. I don’t recommend it.
@@michaelromer2016 thanks mike
Thank you very much terrific video. I have a 98 GMC engine with a Holley 4-barrel on it. It idles fine but if you run it a low speed for 20 minutes or so it causes the motor to stall I am assuming that it is flooding in that low-end. It runs fine from 3 to 4 grand without any problem. It has been advised to replace the needle and seat. From your video it looks to me like there's no significant adjustment when you put it into the main side of the carburetor. I was planning to do this do you advise yes no are there any other problems that you think that could cause these symptoms. Appreciate your time thank you very much.
Based on your symptoms, you are running the carburetor too rich. If you haven't rebuilt it and it is original, purchase a rebuild kit, and replace the seals. The replacement seals work better with ethanol and will help make you motor run more efficiently. A bit of advice, try not to buy an "old stock" carburetor rebuild kit as it doesn't have the ethanol improved seals.
Check out the other user comments too, as someone else had a similar issue, and I wrote the process for fixing that on that post.
Hi Michael, I have these #'s on my carb...3853976, 80312-1, and 0236. Can you tell if this kit will work or which one I need?
My searches are sketchy.
The kit covers a few models. Does your carb look like the one pictured? Also, what year is your carb?
@@michaelromer2016 Mine is a from a 1996 Volvo Penta 4.3L, and it's a 2bbl carb, not 4.
www.holley.com/products/marine_and_powersports/marine/marine_carburetor_rebuild_kits/
Hi, so I did the rebuild and it went good. Do you have a suggested video for tuning?
Turn the primary and secondary air mixture screwed clockwise until closed. Back them both off, counter clockwise 1.5 turns. That is your starting point at idle. Now to fine tune it further, which requires you to turn the screw even more counter clockwise or in some cases clockwise. Here's the trick to knowing which way to turn the screw from there: do you smell gas? Yes, you are too rich, turn the screw clockwise. Is it stumbling (too lean)? Yes, turn the screw counter clockwise. Always start with the primary screw first. Try to set the secondary while you are on the water for best results. How long does this take to get dialed in perfect? 2-3 boat trips, and 20-30 minutes of out of the water testing.
I'll have a video on this process very soon too btw.
@@michaelromer2016 Sounds good I'll give it a go and see how I do. Thanks! Your vids are 👌👌👌
@@michaelromer2016 can't wait.
This is an awesome video!
I am about to rebuild the 2bbl (986469 - 2300 ?), just waiting on parts.
Can I follow this ignoring secondary info? Or do you know another video detailing that carb rebuild?
It should be identical just like you said there's just no second bowl I'll do a video of a rebuild on one of these pretty soon.
@@michaelromer2016 Thanks for the reply. Looks like I won't need the special clutch bit as it appears to be only for the secondaries?
I did the rebuild last night. Too late to fire her up and see if my work paid off. Will find out in the morning. Did not need clutch bit for 2 barrel.
A few minor differences - but I followed along with you. Thanks for this info.
It was a success. My boat ran awesome all weekend long. Thanks so much for posting this!
My kit came with a different size brass fitting in the primary and secondary bowl than the one that I had in there. The float needles are the same, just the size of the base is smaller on the one from the kit. Should I just use the old base and use the new needles? Or does it matter that they are different sizes?
Henry Bieber Use the original base with the replacement needle found in your new kit. Remember the replacement needle has a rubber tip--which is the reason it must be replaced.
Thanks for the quick reply! I measured the needles and they were the same size, so I figured it'd be OK, but I just wasn't sure about the deterioration of the brass base, if that generally happens, or not. Thanks for your help. Great video, by the way.
Is it normal to have several gaskets left over from your kit? I've got 2 base gaskets left (the ones that are square with the big holes)
The original base gaskets (in my opinion) are way better than the replacements (typically paper). Both of your left over gaskets are used on opposite ends of the carburetor spacer.
I'm talking about the smaller (almost square one, not the one with the wings) one that is between the base and the carburetor
Michael, Are you still selling carburetor rebuild kits for the Holley E6JL-9510-FB ? Thanks
www.amazon.com/Sierra-International-18-7245-Carburetor-Kit/dp/B002IVEFAU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540440541&sr=8-1&keywords=Sierra+18-7245
or
www.ebay.com/itm/Cobra-Evinrude-Johnson-Holley-Carburetor-Repair-Kit-3854107-Gaskets-3852759/322290604041?epid=1793245038&hash=item4b0a045809:g:AwMAAOSwNRdX~QoV:rk:2:pf:0
My carb # is 987013 , will this kit fit it?
What was your kit # ? My carb Is a 50469-1 ??? Any help would be great!
If your carb looks like this one, the kit I used would work. There is also crowlymarine.com too.
Michael, is it possible to replace a 98 Volvo 5.7gs (broken block) with a 96 5.8 omc fi?
Is your engine block broke or your carb block?
The block
Engine block
You can. You need to change the way the engine mounts are set into the boat. I have a video that goes over that. Best thing to do is to buy the front and rear engine stands along with a block. Buy this: rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F192349158637
Check marine rebuild blocks. Google a place out of Florida, rapido marine. They specialize in boat engine rebuilt. Complete marine speck long block engine with heads is like $1500 or less without hands.. But might as well for $200 or so. Then afternoon to swap your stuff on it, and boating the day after
Anyone know where I can find a rebuild kit for a Holley marine E8JL-9510-ca been looking online but if anyone can suggest a place?
Does your carburetor look like the one in the video? If it does, order the kit in the prior comments. They allow for variances in the kit.
@@michaelromer2016 Yeah it looks pretty close to the same from what I can tell. So then go ahead and order the E8JL-9510-DA instead of the CA KIT?
@@bossplayer510 These carbs are all based on the Holly 4160 with some key differences for marine use. All the differences don't affect the seals, so that is why I say to use the one I recommended.
@@michaelromer2016 Cool I appreciate it! Gonna order the DA kit and hopefully get it all done rebuilt asap. Thanks!
I have same carb so i should order the Da kit to??
How to replace j tubes
Chris, great video on the Holly 9510 How do I purchase the parts ?
What year and model? 4B or 2B?
1987 4B E6JL-9510-FB . . . . . LIST-50399 . . . . 2466
www.amazon.com/Sierra-International-18-7245-Carburetor-Kit/dp/B002IVEFAU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540440541&sr=8-1&keywords=Sierra+18-7245
or
www.ebay.com/itm/Cobra-Evinrude-Johnson-Holley-Carburetor-Repair-Kit-3854107-Gaskets-3852759/322290604041?epid=1793245038&hash=item4b0a045809:g:AwMAAOSwNRdX~QoV:rk:2:pf:0
I'd get the one from ebay.
Michael, What is the CFM of this carburetor, and what makes it a "marine" carb instead of an automotive carburetor ? Thanks
Great question. There are two main differences. They are both pretty big deals and not having these two items will likely cause a fire. 1.) When you remove the flame arrestor there are J-shaped vent tubes. If there is a float malfunction, fuel drops right back in the carb. Automotive carbs just leak out the side of the carb. 2.) For boats with mechanical fuel pumps, there is a overflow hose inlet (looks like a vacuum line) on the side of the marine carb. Automotive carbs don't use them. Not having either of those will likely cause you harm and I would never take that chance with going with an automotive style in a boat.
My 1987 omc 5.7 resistance between + - is 1.2 ohms, do i need to replace? Ignition coil
Im trying to figuer out why i have so much soot in exhaust water, definitely seems like its running rich. After 30 minutes at WOT it stalled on two different tests. Engine cranks more when hot and fires immediately when cold.
Soot in the exhaust is as follows: burnt exhaust value(s) (perform leak down test), work rubber value seals., fouled spark plugs, carburetor running rich. It will get progressively worse, leaving you stranded on the water. Hit me up if you need further help!
Michael Romer i do see some yellow crust in carb. Should i start there with a rebuild kit on carb, or what do you recommend?
Buddersnaps Rebuilding the carb is easy and helps your boat motor run so much better. Get new stock rebuild kits, old stock doesn't help with ethanol fuel.
Michael Romer i rebuilt it, having issues starting it now, moving throttle doesnt add gas into carburetor. Where should i look into for an area or carb that i messed up, is discharge nozzle screw supposed to be solid tight? Theres seems to be no needle aswell on my holley discharge nozzle
Do you oil or grease the seal before install?
James Mossett III no grease was used. There’s no need.
3857993. 75006 1218 are the numbers on mine. Trying to figure out what kit I'll need. Thanks
Pretty " BORING". too much talking. Get to the point.
You don't need a cliber tool . All you have to do is match up the " Orings...!
Put FEELING to the video's 😅
Good evening I’m looking for a rebuild kit. Here’s the numbers I see on the carburetor
4412-2
0335
Can you help me find a carburetor rebuild kit