How to install/wire a kenne bell boost a pump BAP. Pre-fpdm
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- “I would install the BAP PRE-fpdm. If you install it post fpdm the pcm no longer has full control over the pumps and can cause some tuning issues. There is no disadvantage of installing pre-fpdm. You won't fry the bap this way. I have mine wired pre-fpdm and running full time as I don't use the boost switch that comes with the kit. I set mine to 40% and it's been there for the past 54k miles with no issues. OH and there is not any tuning required if you move the bap to a pre-fpdm configuration.”
This video shows how I wired the Boost a pump BAP into my Cobra. I wish I did an install video, but this was done 3 years ago. Note I wired this up PRE-FPDM (before the fuel pump driver module FPDM) and also I am not running the Hobbs switch (very common). The BAP is wired to be on the entire time and not activated by boost (which is what the hobbs wire and switch would do. I am also not running an upgraded power wire
"I'd add to it that you don't need the kb adj knob. The new ones don't even come with them anymore. The other black wire is connected just like the Hobbs wire is
Most People don't understand how the Boost a pump works. They think they need a knob.
Well back in the old day before fpdm' the bap ran right to the pump and sent 30-100% voltage 8-17v directly to the pump.
In a fpdm setup, the knob should be set to 100 or wires connected with no knob. The fpdm only uses the voltage that is needed based on ecm demand. It's not sending 17 volts to the fpdm unless the pumps are at max anyways."
Waiting to receive this on Monday... can’t wait to install on mine!! Thanks
Gordo great! Good luck on the install
Did you ever find a wire diagram for tying two FPDM together? thanks in advance Brad
Danny, do you connect the red/blk wires together on each of the set of red/blk wires? Or take both sets of red/blk wires and connect red/red, blk/blk?
Very informative. My car came with a BAP and I used you video just to make sure everything was wired correctly.
What are signs of your fpdm going out? And how can I acquire my fuel duty cycle?
some tuners (and I believe the aeroforce interceptor gauge I have) will give you duty cycle. The car not running at all or even going into limp mode would be signs of a bad fpdm. I have a black306 modified fpdm. Never really had issues without it, but hear they overheat, so the black306 modified is a better upgrade
Danny Johnson would you happen to know the duty cycle % it should read at idle? I have one of those gauges and didn't know it also read duty cycle. They really are worth the money
Hey Danny, I just bought my BAP from LMR and the two red wires are connected to some type of adapter connection
Did you ever figure it out ? I cut the adapter off hopefully it works!
Cleaning up my trunk today, I noticed my nob switch regulator is only turned half way... will it cause an issue if I turn it all the way to the right (100%) like yours?
Great video thanks
What about the rest of the Peace's that go in the front the Hobbs switch
Installed this today wires little different but how do u know if it works
Did you have any problems running it without the hobb switch? It's basically always on in that case correct?
Correct. No problems.
Do you have to run that Kenne Bell switch ?
I have mine on there and turned up to 100%. I'm not sure if it would be set to 100% without
Hi Danny my car came with one all set up etc. I was wondering the adjustable dial 0-50 I believe on the black box, lean to rich. What’s this do and is there an optimal setting? I may have missed that in the video
You’ll want to err on the rich side for safety. If you have a wideband, check it’s output before changing anything. Most people set them to 100% just to ensure the car can always request enough fuel.
Great video. You simplified the install. Question, have you did the PPRV delete?
michaelsjolin no, I have not. And I'll tell you, the car can cut off between shifts if I'm not careful lol. It's best not to lift off the gas entirely when shifting. My issue is id probably delete it when/if I go return, so not a big deal right now for me. I just try to drive around it lol
I'm on the verge of installing the BAP on my car since I'm right at 100% FPDC at 6200 RPM, but I've discovered that they offer a single or dual pump application. Which one is yours?
Michael Sjolin both pumps run off the same power supply. The only thing I've seen that sounds similar to what you're saying is when people wire a separate FPDM for each pump. Even at that I don't see how two of these would each run one pump
Prob stupid question, but does it matter which side of the cut green and yellow wire goes into the pink wire and which goes into the red with fuse?
It looks like it says the wire coming from the fpdm is where the red wire should be connected (step 4) www.terminator-cobra.com/KB%20BAP%20Instructions.pdf
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage so the red/black wire that goes to the knob its the ones you connect together?
Can i install on a stock engine until my turbo setup is done?
Chris Farley yes.
So even with the modified fpdm I still need the boostapump?
rene Last yes. The modification on the FPDM only keeps it from over-heating whereas the boost a pump actually gives more power to the pumps
Is this the same deal on a GT? Installing one with my kenne bell supercharger kit and there instructions arent that great
Yeah, although some colors change over the years
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage the way you wired it is that considered pre fpdm or is that post fpdm?
Would this apply to my 01GT? And could I install it before supercharging?
Yes, same thing.
What kind of fuel pump duty cycle improvement did you see by not doing a wire upgrade?
Nick G I believe the duty cycle was 80% but I’m not sure it would be effected by the power upgrade at all. I understand that’s just for better support.
Yea I understand. What was done to the car at the time? Just a pulley? I've installed a few of these, but have always upgraded the wiring. just would like to compare to see if the wiring upgrade is worth the extra work.
Nick G 2.3L Whipple, 60# injectors, intake/exhaust
Awesome. Exactly what I wanted to know. Thanks for answering my questions! Much appreciated!
Bout to buy a newly Posi ported eaton so getting this on order soon. Shouldn't need bigger injectors when running the BAP right?
My brothers 10th had stock injectors but it was pushing it and running a bit lean. He was at 513rwhp. I’d recommend some 60# as well as the boost a pump and a mafia MAF extender or MAF upgrade. Just my thoughts
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Copy that. I'll grab both then. I'm already running the SCT BA2600 MAF.
Is this worth adding if I’m keeping the stock injectors and going with 2.76 upper?
Yes. It’s worth it all the way up to a return fuel system
hey danny would this apply to my 98 cobra?
Yeah, it would be the same, but it’s only going to help with the single pump in your tank, so probably not much more use unless you get a higher flowing pump (and only really necessary for a supercharged application).
Hey danny, quick question. Can I just use that pin out on the harness, mine are all the same colors except for the green and yellow. Mine is pink with a black stripe. The green and yellow goes into the intercia switch but it doesn't go into the fpdm module. This a mach1. Thanks any help would be appreciated.
I believe it’s also pink with a black stripe on the GT
Does your green with yellow go into the inertia switch? Just wondering. apprciate it. Thanks for all your help. Really do apprciate it. Very very helpful.
My 97 cobra is supercharged, do you think I should connect the Hobbs switch?
Have it turned up 100% or as your tuner advises
Hey Danny you mentioned you have a modified fpdm and it just plugs in. I just bought a black 306 modified fpdm but I plan on using a fore hat with built in fuel pump wires. How would I go with connecting the power and ground wires from the fuel pumps to the fpdm? Sorry for the dumb question I’m just a bit confused
Do you know if it’s the stock returnless system or are you doing a return system as well?
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage yes it’s the stock returnless system. Only reason I’m using a fore hat is because I didn’t want to modify my stock fuel hat to run the wires from the fuel pumps and it also came with bigger power and ground wires witch I heard was a good idea to upgrade. My set up is basically the fore hat with ford gt pumps and a black 306 modified fpdm
@@modlist6129 In that case the fuel pump wires would be spliced into the existing ones (probably at the harness near the hat)
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage the fore hat has built in wires that are really long I was thinking about running them all the way to the fpdm and just splicing them to the pig tail to the fpdm since the wires on the fore hat are bigger than the ones in that go from the fuel hat to the fpdm
I just bought my BAP last week. Was your setup with the wiring upgrade? Im kind of confused on how i wire in the upgrade kit and what changes in the install procedures. Thanks
Mine does not have the wire upgrade. With the wire upgrade you have to add the power wire from the batter to connect to a relay. There is a diagram in the video at the end that shows it
So you would need to run the power wire from the battery to the relay, then the relay would connect to the BAP (via the red wire that has the inline fuse), then add another ground from the relay to the car.
Watch at 3:54 of the video and you'll see the diagram
Is that all there is to it? Do you have to cut the red, black, and violet wire and replace it with a bigger gauge wire?
+jflandrvr00 I haven't done it so I can't say 100%, but it appears you need to 1.Run the new power wire (which will have its own online fuse) from the car battery to the relay. 2. Run the BAP's red wire with inline fuse to the BAP. 3. Cut the green with yellow stripe wire coming off the fuel pump driver Module. 4. Attach the violet wire to the green with yellow stripe wire closest to the FPDM, and then the other end of the green with yellow stripe wire would attach to the relay. You also have a ground going from the BAP to the frame of the car and a ground from the relay going to the frame of the car
Hey so if I end up having a Hobbs switch hooked up in mine, can I still re wire it this way? Or will it screw my car up? I’m chasing a cut out randomly at low throttle 1st sometimes 2nd gear. Happened after my alternator went out. Other cobra guys thing it surged and messed the BAP up. I bought the car with all this stuff on it. Paper work says BAP was installed in 2013 then tuned then re tuned in 2016.
It shouldn’t matter as long as the switch is tuned up to 100%
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage ok and I can just leave the dial out right? I took it out yesterday and it made it run better.
@@Wretched2JZ as long as it’s set to 100% or some people wire it out so there isn’t a switch at all and that should set it at 100%. I haven’t done that part so I can’t say 100%
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage ok yea because I didn’t see it in the manual I downloaded but all these local installers on FB said that’s how they work 🤷🏼♂️
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage so mine is hooked up to the wrong wire in my harness.
My question is does the fused wire go to the end of the wire coming from the plug side. Or the other green wire end that goes to pump or wherever.
Thanks doing it now!
Hey Danny I’m a little confused wondering if you could help me out, I’m hooking up a boost a pump in my 03 cobra, and the instructions say to tap into the brown wire with pink stripe at the inertia switch, but I see that you tapped into the green and yellow in a different area.
That would be post fuel pump driver Module. I have mine wired before the fuel pump driver which is supposed to be better
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage ok , so u recommend the green / yellow wire, i talked to Kenny bell, they recommend the brown/ pink
@@OH3REDFIRESVT it sounds like the only difference is where it is being installed.If you install it after the fuel pump driver module the computer does not have full control over the pumps anymore. The wire is probably just a different color by the inertia switch instead of by the fuel pump driver module. You can do it whichever way you would like. They may be doing it their way for convenience.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage ok , I’ll probably hook it up like yours, that makes more sense. I appreciate the help, thank you
Mine was this way as well as my brothers, so must be the trend lol
So, yesterday I installed my kenne bell bap... It ran perfectly fine.. Today, I installed a new fuel filter. I did unplug the inertia switch and let the car idle and die out to relieve the pressure in the system. After replacing the filter and plugging the inertia switch back in, when I start the car, the fuse to the fuel pump (under the hood) blows every time. It idles and then dies out. Any ideas what it could be? Do you think it has to do with the bap install? Any input would be greatly appreciated.. Thanks!
It is possible it has to do with the bap install if a wire is shorting out. I would narrow it down by unplugging the fpdm and then see if it still pops, or even take the fuse out of the bap wire and see if it pops. Double check all the wiring you did
Hey Hows it going, I am having trouble with my BAP. Its on a corvette, My fuse holder is getting really hot, the surrounding wires are ok, just the fuse holder is getting really hot, its the 30 amp fuse, any suggestions thanks.
It's most likely at the max of the fuse size or possibly a bad connection causing more draw on one side. That's how a GFI trips on a house outlet, so similar concept. I would check the wiring connections, if possible measure them with a volt meter and maybe even rewire the connections. If you put a larger fuse in there TEMPORARILY TO TEST it you'll know if its getting too much power or not. Don't leave it that way, just see if it keeps getting hot.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Thanks alot, I just bought a new 12 guage fuse holder with 40 amp fuse. its the (larger size) Will see how it works. Also a 40 amp originally came with the unit. I already checked and re wired the ground, everything looks ok, I just posted in LS1tech under Forced Induction to see the pic, Thanks
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage
Hey Man Thanks Alot Its fixed now, I went up a size on the fuse now its running normal and not hot. Thanks AGain.
If the car will start and run for about 2 mins and then stall out is that a symptom of the boost a pump going bad?
sounds more like the fuel pump or the fuel rail pressure sensor (frps). The boost a pump only assists the pump when at a high demand for fuel
Danny Johnson awesome thank you!!
I had one in my 06 Mustang gt sc hooked pre fdpm for 13 months then cruising down the road in 4 th it burns up (bap) any idea why or could it just be a faulty bap ? Trying to figure this out before I install another don’t wanna burn it up also
Ever get it figured out?
no i just installed another one and hoped for the best..;. thanks for reminding me its about that time..
@@JordanSVT
@@blackriflex39 Once you replaced it with another BAP your issue was fixed? That would make me think you may have just had a faulty unit.
@@JordanSVT yea all good now im hoping its not a every 13 month thing lol ... i myself thought it was faulty but kenne bell never answered 1 email telling me anything... the second one is hooked up exactly the same i went over kill and double heat shrinked the connections this time
Can I put my bap in the engine bay area?
You may have seen the similar boost a spark in the engine bay, but the bap would be easier in the trunk and farther away from excessive heat. You can run the wires all the way to the fpdm from the engine bay if you wanted to..
Alright i will sick to the trunk thanks!