Yes, that's much easier. All we would have to do is: Drain the cooling system and pull the radiator Disconnect all the fuel, electrical and heater hose connections to the car Pull the wheels and undo the front shocks Break the upper ball joints Disconnect the front brake lines Remove the torsion bars Drop the steering column, undo all the connections and remove it. Raise the car high enough to clear the engine and K.... Then all we would have to do is every other step we've already covered in this vid, and we'd be done! Except for having to replace all that other stuff when we went to put it back together again. I should have thought of this myself! Kinda like the first time I tried it that way back around 1979.
@@UncleTonysGarage don’t you need to drain the cooling system anyways cause the header bolts? Don’t mopars have an individual wiring harness for the engine that’s just unplugs from the bulkhead? Idk I feel like popping the torsion bars out, and taking off shock in order to gain easy access to the engine is worth it. Personally I hate working in tight areas where ever I can help it.
Most useful tool we have nowadays is the internet, always someone out there who’s solved your particular problem and has helpfully passed on his knowledge 👍
I have a modified 13/16 wrench for removing the plugs. It is cut down to half the length and the 12 point boxed end has a opening cut out. Making look like a line wrench. Makes it easier to remove plugs in my 69 Roadrunner. Learned this trick from my father. He was a dealership mechanic in the late 60's and early 70's. He also had a mid 60's Belvedere and 68 Charger drag cars. Both with 440s in them.
Fender well exit headers. My first car at age 15 and a half in1968 was a V100 stripper Valiant with 170c.i. slant six 3 speed manual .I built a 273 in 1971with all the goodies and at the last minute my late best friend went down to Goodies speed shop in San Jose and bought me a set of Cyclone fender-well exit headers. I installed an 833 4 speed and 8-3/4 . Piece -o- cake to remove the Cyclones periodically for repaint or pulling engine. My old man was real good at sheet metal having fixed fighters and bombers in the New Guinea jungle with few new replacement parts available.He showed me how to use a chisel and hammer to make a fairly clean opening for the Cyclones at the rear of the inner fenders using the supplied paper template
Worked in the transmission repair business in the early '70's and saw a lot less 727's come through the shop than Ford and GM trans. GM trans were nightmares as every division had their own completely different units. Dealerships were so overwhelmed with repairs to the GM 350 when it came out, they were subbing them out to the independent repair shops. Chrysler's standardization of the 727 and the 904 in all lines was a great move.
My daily driver when I was in high school and college in the mid to late 80's was a 1972 Charger Rallye with a factory 440 and a 727. The Charger had headers and the headers used to cook the starter every so often. I bought a "lifetime warranty" starter from the now defunct Western Auto, and thankfully every time the starter got cooked by the headers they would exchange it. I got really good at getting that drivers side header out with the starter cradles inside it. I could probably do the job in a couple of hours. The other issue with headers and the big block Mopars was that some of the plug wires would always seem to be too close to the headers and they would also get cooked... Bought a ton of wire sets dealing with that...
Thinking about it now, I can’t believe the type of jobs we all used to take on, working in back lanes, in front of the house, in bad weather, underground parking lots, what a laugh! I don’t think I’ve seen anyone doing this sort of thing for decades. 4X4 trucks balanced on jack stands in front of the house, oil dripping out of empty axle housings, in the city! I’m so happy I lived at the time I did.
Unless you are going radical with a big block Mopar, the stock hi-po exhaust manifolds work pretty damn well. But, this is why I am a small block guy. Much easier to work on, lighter, smaller, and you can still make them run like hell.
You guys are making me feel better about my 64 Galaxie fastback with a 390. The spark plugs on both sides are of course above and inboard of the exhaust ports, so easy breezy, easier than a big block Chevy. The headers were no fun, and I went with shorty headers from Sanderson. Why in the age of computers and modern machinery can't anyone make headers that fit without being beaten on or some grinding done on the headers or the car. Why. They are just as much of a pain in the ass in that regard as they were in 1978 when I started selling and installing them. It has to be an industry standard to never actually install these at the header factory to see if they fit without beating a flat spot in a tube to clear the steering gear or a dent in a tube to clear a bolt related to the upper control arm mount or, or, or. Every car has its issues with this. Why, you shouldn't have to do this. I can't imagine the caniption fit I would have if I had to beat on pipes I just spent $600 on to have coated.
I’ve got a duster with a 440 and full length headers, I can drop the K member with engine trans in about an hour and everything becomes easy! I cut holes in the inner fenders to access the plugs, so much easier and you can hardly see the holes.
Im In the process of putting a big block in my duster would love to see pictures of how yours is and what headers are you running? Thank you have a great day
Including removal of the torsion bars , lower control arms , steering box ,drive shaft, shifter linkage ,radiator hoses , trans cooler lines,etc? In an Hour ? BS!
@@donberry5677 I don’t remove the lower control arms or the steering box, that all stays on the K member. I just knock the torsion back and disconnect the steering shaft.
@@donberry5677 You don't have to remove the torsion bars, that k-member will droop far enough to make everything much more accesable without removing the T-Bars. Once you do it this way the first time and learn where to ziptie your wires out of the way(I lengthened the wiring to my ignition box and made it easy to free the harness from it's clips and a couple things like that. Also Neversieze on all the fasteners 'cuz you're going to be doing this again eventually, lol) it's not awful. Ask the man who's stuffed big blocks in a couple A-Bodies.
@@donberry5677 Most of what you mentioned never needs touched. He said drop the K member to make it easy to access bolts and make room to get the trans out, he never said anything about taking the k member completely out because you don't have to. The trans should come right out if the k member is lowered, never touching anything you mentioned except unhooking the stuff off of the transmission. In a well equipped shop, truthfully it should not take an hour to get it out.................
I discovered early on that Mopar guys are a little crazy. Growing up we always joked about the Mopar guys being a little off. They were the friends that you didn't want your parents to meet.
When I began watching UTG's videos years ago, I cringed to see the tools and parts thrown around on the fenders and what not, but now I don't even notice anymore. You'll never see me do that however, working with a cart next to the car where I can lay down everything just makes more sense to me. Nothing gets lost or forgotten, nothing falls in the wrong places. But don't change anything UT, it's a Mopar thing I get it. Cheerz
My father had his own shop since 1979 and is a diehard Chevy guy, because he worked on 1 Mopar with headers.....lol. All jokes aside. these aren't the only ones that are like that. A 2wd Nissan pickup is almost as bad. Come to think of it pretty much anything with a Torsion Front End is just a nightmare to work on. I broke down and bought the GM Torsion Tool to remove the torsion bars on all GM vehicles because of this. Pretty much all Headers (any make and model) complicate things, especially when it comes to the starters. Big Block Fords have those slip joint headers, that work very well, as long as they've never run. After a year or two, they don't like to come apart or go back together like they used to. Mopar's are the King of Pain in it all, but all the others aren't far behind. Great Video as always UTG, and to Josh...... keep Embracing the Suck, it's worth it in the end man!
First things last, use the v6 mini van starter, its smaller and high torque. Hedman headers only have an issue with #6, I use the plug wrench from a BMW, but any chainsaw wrench(crimped pipe with hole for screwdriver) will work like butter. Ger Pertronix and never deal with ballast resistor, module, or pick up coil again. Between the mini van starter, Pertronix, and way to big a carb, my 440 starts so fast it surprises me and scares the kids. ticVROOM!!!
Mopar guys are like Submarine Crew , they know that the submarine could sink and become their Iron Coffin at any moment - but they won't stop singing the praises of working on a Sub, and they won't ever stop doing what they do!
I ran a Hemi Road Runner for several years and although the plug changes were tolerable, pulling the driver side valve cover was a Bear to say the least !
@@donberry5677 Yeah, for that reason I'm seriously considering a hydro boost system. It's orginally a 318 car so I'm not worried about keeping everything looking original. It's also getting converted from a column shift auto to a 4 speed.
Exactly how I learned! 1985 Plymouth Reliant K car. Had to rebuild the top end then dad gave it to me. Two weeks later I realized the front seal on the tranny was out from sitting dry for almost a year, car was down for another two weeks but I learned that I loved Mopar that month. Car sat for a year just cuz Dad didn't want to mess with it, didn't take a year to do a head job 😳😳😳
Back in the ‘70’s I put max wedge factory exhausts on a 440. It helped with the starter, but changing plugs was a pain. I still got the scraps and burns to prove it. 😂😂
You can usually (depending on brand header and size) loosen the header except for the front bolt (leave it in but loose) and swing the header down, do what you need with the starter, and swing the header back up and reinstall the bolts
I grew up with b body mopars my 70 charger R/T, SE. seemed normal to work on because I didn't work on anything else. But then I was asked to change the spark plugs on a v8 monza and it was a real pain. The result was that I removed 3 different brands of spark plugs from the engine so I guess these were previous failed attempts to change them. I was young and skinny with skinny arms and hands that helped. I learned afterwards that to change the spark plugs in the monza required to remove the engine mounts and tilt the engine to get access to remove the plugs. Sheesh! Anyway so the plugs on my charger were a piece of cake. Until the headers went in. That lasted about 2 weeks and put the oem manifolds back in, because the headers leaked! So to me! Mopars are easy to work on.
This man's advice is priceless. Especially for us young guys just getting into this stuff. Was planning on putting headers on the 360 but I like being able to get all my plugs out in 2 minutes.
Took me three hours to do the plugs in my 09 300. Apart from having to disassemble the entire induction system, much of this lives under the cowl where it is close to impossible to get the EGR tube back into the intake. Thanks Mopar.
Everything u just said is true. I remember my 69 charger 440. Plugs were a project with the headers and a headache to change starter. Ahhh the good Ole days!
Beautiful car Josh. A real car is made to be driven; Love the answer you gave. Every dent and scratch adds to patina, character and memories ; good memories 👍
Had a high compression 440 in a 68 charger the thing ate starters found out the Direct Conection race starter 3x the price of normal was well worth the money spent 😀
I never ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever EVER want to install a full length header on the passenger side of an 83 caprice EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER AGAIN
They aren’t that bad! I did a bunch of work on a 68 Charger with a 440 and long-tube headers for a customer, and by the end of it I could have the plugs, headers, and starter all out of the car in under an hour. I did ultimately put a mini-starter in that car, which could be slid in with the header still in the car but the bolts loose, and that made getting the driver’s side header in and out much easier!
Brother when you said Mopar guys are a little touched I could not stop laughing 😂. Man I respect you more and more everyday love the content brother keep it up. Tell that guy to pull the engine with the tranny he probably would of been done by now. My first muscle car was a 1970 dodge dart custom Canada car loved it and miss it. Have a great day all of you.
I once bought a used 70 Plymouth Fury II ex police car. I decided to tune it up as it had a miss. This was a “professionally” maintained car. There were three types of spark plugs in it. One was original. With 40,000 miles. I love 383-440 cats.
Thanks for bringing back all those nightmares of changing my starter and spark plugs on my 69 383 Roadrunner. My girlfriend's mother told her that she never heard anybody curse like that and she shouldn't go with me, I was changing out the starter in her driveway because the rebuilt one that I had put in 2 weeks ago died the night before when I went to pick her up. She married me anyway!
I’m a mini starter kind of guy! Definitely a help. Tell him to put new plugs in while he’s got those out! Good luck, Josh. Thanks UTG. But I can’t say it! 😂
What is the problem with headers an plugs? One of the benefits when I build headers for my 383 was, it made changing plugs so much easier, like maybe 5 minutes.
Had a 400 cop car and went through 5 starters until I received a correct starter. 100 degrees in a parking lot paved with asphalt and it was easy by the end
I went with fenderwell headers when I put the 440 in my '67 Barracuda. Spark plugs are still a pain in the rear, but install and removal of the headers is not bad. We all feel this guys pain!!!
I used to get really annoyed with having to deal with coolant when removing an exhaust manifold on Chrysler (Mopar) products. Took me years as a tech to get past my hatred of all things Mopar. When I opened my transmission shop my parking lot became quickly filled with Dodge Caravans and I realized, OK, you're paying my bills, brings it on!
The good bad and the ugly but true, when I was young back in the late 70's I worked in a auto repair shop and Mopar was not our favorite. It sealed the deal when a customer came in with a Dart that had a 426 Hemi conversion, beautiful factory blue metallic with white interior. Now I know why the customer didn't want to work on it anymore after doing all the shoe horning to get that monster in it. The owner let his brother drive it who went over a railroad crossing at speed and kissed the oil pan on landing, one Moroso oil pan turned to scrap, luckily didn't knock a hole in it or delete oil pressure.
When i was a kid it took me a day to replace a starter on my 440 with hooker headers. With out the lift laying in the driveway takes about an hour blind folded. 833 takes a little longer fighting the z bar.
I've always loved Mopar muscle cars but could only afford Chevys. I guess it was a blessing in disguise cuz that looks way harder than it should be. But you know what I still want to get an old Mopar one of these days.
I never owned any 67-69 B Body Mopars. I did have a 4.40 powered 62 Plymouth Sport Fury bracket car and my $25.00 set of headers fit in like Butta' In fact I LEFT the exhaust studs in the heads. it made it easier to hang the headers! It was a breeze changing spark plugs also
Mid 80s I was doing tune-ups, just a kid out of high school from Minnesota in Dallas. The other guys always gave me the Mopars and the European cars, really didn't mind either. The only 440 I remember with headers was in because the guy stuck in a performance distribution all kinds of screwed up. Charger RT I told him I'd work on it after hours, it'd take a while. Yeah it took like four minutes to put wires on where they belonged and set the timing. Then we beat the hell out of it that night.
Aaaah, memories haha. xD ive done this on an A body with full length headers and a factory starter. What a pain in the ass. Also did this on a dodge D100 with full length headers. The starter is a pain also. Its just a feature of headers. Haha get a mini starter for clearance and its also better. Like a 98 Ram starter. Works great!!
You're right. Headers really suck. The performance gain on a street beater with headers is not worth the grief. Run cast iron manifolds. They worked well from the factory. Unless it's going to be a dedicated race only vehicle, make your life easier. Go back to cast iron manifolds. And use quality NGK sparkplugs.
I remember my Uncle Tony working on his barracuda swearing up a storm and my Uncle Al laughing saying you should have bought a Camaro! This post brought me back to my childhood. Thx good stuff UTG
I'm a poor guy who started driving in the late 90's, so I've never had anything with headers. I've mostly had small block Chevy cars. I've only had one mopar and it was a '77 D-100 Adventurer pick-up with a 318. Not a straight panel on it including the bumpers. But I loved it. I'd love to find another one.
We've got hedders on our 66 LeMans, it's not so much the hedders being the issue, it's the angle of the heads that point down at a weird angle. Every time he has to replace a hedder flange gaskets I remind him that it would be so much easier if we just put a Chevy small block into it, but Mr. Purist wants to keep it all Pontiac......lol.
I remember working at the dealer in 70s and 8ties we got paid peanuts to re& re transmission under warranty luckily we didn't have to deal with headers.
I took a saws all to a 440 68 Charger on each side and made a cover over the hole with stove bolts. You could do all of that by putting it on jackstands pull the front tires and the plate you made and a mid length Snap On socket with a sink washer drilled out and a long extension and a flex bent handle ratchet and they come right out, the starter comes off, the header bolts come out some with a custom wrench and it will come out.
They all have their ups and downs, I don’t think I’ve ever looked at any vehicles engine bay and thought to myself…….yes, this is so well thought out, I’d love to replace parts on it.
4 come to mind, but I'm positive I was wrong about one of them. The first 3 are all interchangeable: any early 70s fullsize pickup truck. #4 is C4 Corvettes with the tilt nose. I don't believe they're as easy as they look, but they did look easy at the time.
I've been a long time Mopar geek forever, well actually 35 years. I never realized they suck. I've done all kinds of impossible wrenching on them and just accepted it as the way it is. Learn something everday!
Champion had a rash of defective spark plugs when they first came out with copper core spark plugs. The short term fix was to tell the parts stores to go up one heat range, but switching to AC spark plugs was a better choice at the time. The NGK spark plugs usually worked well. The old Autolite plugs outlasted the Motorcraft plugs when copper core plugs first came about.
Uncle Tony. I Love you brother man. Thanks again for being such a freggin legend. I’ll never forget shaking your hand and petting my dog. A real connection of brother men ❤️
I had a 318 valiant. I got dual exhaust put on. I was so Happy. Then my starter failed. And I crawl under there… And the new exhaust blocks in the starter. I feel your pain. Wish I had someone like you when I was learning!😂
I’ve been running a small block Chevy in all my cars since 84, and I’ve never used AC plugs. I’ve ran Champions, Accell, Autolite,and recently started using NGKs. My latest car is a G-body that I had to remove the AC box to get my set of circle track headers on. I’m also running angle plug heads, which makes it a real bitch to change, or check my plugs. I had to take a short 5/8 socket, have the 3/8 drive drilled out, and have flats milled on the O.D. to make it, so where I can change them. I can pull a few of the plugs out to read them, but there’s the few that I’m not gonna mess with, until I actually see a reason to change the whole set. That why I’m running the Iridium plugs. If the few plugs I can keep checking on look good, then I can be confident that the rest are ok. If I see a problem, then, I gotta get that special socket out, and spend a bunch of time, and effort, replacing them all. Trust me! I’ve been hearing this since the early 80s. If you wanna play..You gotta pay! Whether it’s money or time!
My first cars where all Mopars from Chargers, Challengers to Dusters. Loved them all but got away from them and went to GM for a few reasons- parts back then for Mopars was double than GM and to work on them was always a PIA. I still do love them
The late big block police and motor home heads take 5/8 inch spark plugs, which give more header space than 13/16 inch spark plugs on other big block heads.
I worked for a Plymouth dealer back in 1969, and I remember the mechanics hated to replace the right side rear spark plug on the big blocks. Occasionally they would do a tune up and skip that plug, unless it was misfiring. Occasionally a tune-up would come back later, that plug fouled between tune-ups. Replacing that plug required loosening a motor mount and jacking the engine up a little. Some guys would cut a hole in the firewall, under the glove compartment, so they could get to it.
Remember the old anti oil foul caps for plugs, back in the day old tired oil burners were common. definitely didn't improve performance but then again a dead hole doesn't either. Some mechanic in a can additive anti foul caps new points and run it in to the ground then put it out to pasture by the woods line out back with the other dead soldiers... #lastditcheffort
Engine design and technology got way better in the late 80s and 90s didn't it. I'm currently running a 94 f150 into the ground. and with 394 thousands miles it still don't burn oil form what i can tell. it'll leak about every drop though.
@@spudtaterson6281 yeah I have a 95 mustang gt it doesn't burn a drop but the rear main is toast I have to run half qt down or gets on fly wheel. Back in the day people hardly changed there oil also. Some people changed there oil 3 times, about every 35k and it was all done at 100k.
You bring back memories. I worked 3rd shift back then, I was charging rear end gears I fail a sleep under my Duster with the center section on my chest. My girlfriend found me woke me up and I finished. She was fixing supper so got cleaned up went to her apartment and fell asleep on her couch 9:00 the next morning got up loaded car then rolled it over 4 /12 times
Removing a dead starter on my 70 Hemi Super Bee, with big tube headers, and some thoughtful previous owner had welded the slip joints, not just tacks, but welded as far as was possible. There was no money in the budget for anything like new headers, so I spent many nights with a very small triangular file, working at those welds. It’s worse than it sounds, because the welds were harder than the tubes, so the file always wanted to slip off.
7:40 "Quality Control Going Right Out The Window" the AFTERMARKET FOR SURE!. I bought $850 JBA headers for 70 Mustang ABSOLUTE GARBAGE. and a Dynacorn Door that won't latch! 🤬
I'm a new subscriber. I'm a Mopar guy. Back in the day I ran a real max wedge car. All of what you said about B bodies and headers is true. Especially the plugs, wires and starter. But...... When that 440 comes to life and runs right, it's worth all the hassles. You see, I'm brain damaged too. From Ohio
Makes me feel so lucky to have a Pontiac V8. The heads are designed with. Extra long exhaust runners compared to a SBC/SBM/SBF/BBM, to the point where the spark plugs are probably a good 2" away from the exhaust flanges. Hardest part of getting my headers in was just the bolts. Didn't even have to remove plug wires!
I've heard the starter for a Dodge Dakota with V-8 will fit great and has adequate torque to spin a Big block Mopar, and is considerably more affordable than aftermarket mini starters.
I like my small blocks in my cars with manifolds and my big blocks in trucks with headers for these reasons. On the trucks i make the inner fenders easily removable and then removing the wheel for open access for work. Trucks are cool.
Just advise the guy to pull the whole caboodle out in one. Then he can get his jobs done easier and maybe give it all a quick wire brush and paint. Then the only struggle left would be putting the headers back on or maybe make your own better fitting ones 🤔. ✌️🇬🇧
I have a 440 with longtube headers in my '66 Belvedere, it has manual brakes, manual steering and the shifter's on the floor so no linkage to fight, much better than this scenario but still a minor beating. Tony, does the later mini starter make this any better on a 440 B-Body with longtubes?
My 6 month old AC Delco plugs were all rusted too. Mechanic was trying to tell me they were ancient and I had neglected the truck but I was telling him that I JUST swapped plugs 6 months to a year ago and he couldn’t believe it from the rust.
I've done a lot of thinking about this situation over the years, I believe that the solution is to custom make headers patterned after the old max wedge exhaust manifolds. Make accommodations for the master cylinder, heater fan. Would probably have to make the tubes shorter than the long tube design. Those old max wedge manifold worked very good, but won't fit in 1966 and later b bodies, and we're cast iron.
And I always thought my buddy put thru the fenderwell header's in his sixtynine RT was because they're Cool, now I see there was other Cool reasons... I know pulling the torqflite out of my 70 CUDA wasn't too bad, but this was a Long time ago....
You need a 13/16 snap on hydraulic angle wrench. Snap on has a patent on the angles they use for there hydraulic wrenches that’s different then every other brand. With that wrench, plug socket, and a wobble extension I can do the plug on my 69 roadrunner with a 440 power steering running vintage Doug’s headers 1 5/8 I believe, the plugs on my 70 roadrunner with 383 power steering running vintage headman headers 1 3/4, and also on my 73 roadrunner 440 drag car running vintage big hooker super comps. A few are still challenging but I never have to get underneath and can usually do them in 30 min or so if I don’t mess around.
yeah, did the starter laying in header cradle install on my 1974 "CUDA with a 440. I used the trcuck replacement one whicah was too big. so if you can get a tiny race starter they are much lighter
In HS I had a ‘70 Charger R/T 440 auto. Header tube on driver’s side cracked and I had to get it out and up to school for welding. My solution was to take apart the top half of the PS pump to get the header off the studs. Big mistake. First start up after re-installation, the steering wheel jacked full right lock with no input from me! (I drove it😨)
On my molars I like headers that come apart in pieces , way easier to take apart and pull out . My challenger all you have to do is take of # 7 pipe and my clutch fork and the starter is out . My duster with fender wells is a dream though lol
Heh they continued that with the partnership with Mitsubishi, 8 hrs to pull and replace the alternator brushes on their transverse V6. Intake runners, EGR and other things have to come off and the alternator is moved and rotated like something in 3d tetris to get it out.
Uncle Tony, would you please do a video on "run on", you know when you turn off the ignition and the engine continues to run even though there is no power provided to the coil. also called" dieseling". This was quite the deal in the 1980s, then they added the idle control solenoid. Thank ou for considering this .
Me and my 64 GMC 4x4 with the removable transmission tunnel are laughing hysterically at this trip through the Mopar big block torture chamber And yes it has headers.
Hey you’re doing it the hardest way possible… drop the k member kit with the engine headers trans.. everything
Yes, that's much easier. All we would have to do is:
Drain the cooling system and pull the radiator
Disconnect all the fuel, electrical and heater hose connections to the car
Pull the wheels and undo the front shocks
Break the upper ball joints
Disconnect the front brake lines
Remove the torsion bars
Drop the steering column, undo all the connections and remove it.
Raise the car high enough to clear the engine and K....
Then all we would have to do is every other step we've already covered in this vid, and we'd be done! Except for having to replace all that other stuff when we went to put it back together again.
I should have thought of this myself! Kinda like the first time I tried it that way back around 1979.
@@UncleTonysGarage 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@UncleTonysGarage don’t you need to drain the cooling system anyways cause the header bolts? Don’t mopars have an individual wiring harness for the engine that’s just unplugs from the bulkhead? Idk I feel like popping the torsion bars out, and taking off shock in order to gain easy access to the engine is worth it. Personally I hate working in tight areas where ever I can help it.
@@Burnedout_garage Yeah, header bolts drain the coolant in the engine when they’re taken out at least for the 318 since that’s all I have
@@UncleTonysGarage Yes, it's just that easy.
Most useful tool we have nowadays is the internet, always someone out there who’s solved your particular problem and has helpfully passed on his knowledge 👍
I have a modified 13/16 wrench for removing the plugs. It is cut down to half the length and the 12 point boxed end has a opening cut out. Making look like a line wrench. Makes it easier to remove plugs in my 69 Roadrunner. Learned this trick from my father. He was a dealership mechanic in the late 60's and early 70's. He also had a mid 60's Belvedere and 68 Charger drag cars. Both with 440s in them.
Your comments about Mopar guys being a bit touched is spot on. I know, I used to be one, and I don't think that it really totally goes away.
Fender well exit headers. My first car at age 15 and a half in1968 was a V100 stripper Valiant with 170c.i. slant six 3 speed manual .I built a 273 in 1971with all the goodies and at the last minute my late best friend went down to Goodies speed shop in San Jose and bought me a set of Cyclone fender-well exit headers. I installed an 833 4 speed and 8-3/4 . Piece -o- cake to remove the Cyclones periodically for repaint or pulling engine. My old man was real good at sheet metal having fixed fighters and bombers in the New Guinea jungle with few new replacement parts available.He showed me how to use a chisel and hammer to make a fairly clean opening for the Cyclones at the rear of the inner fenders using the supplied paper template
Worked in the transmission repair business in the early '70's and saw a lot less 727's come through the shop than Ford and GM trans. GM trans were nightmares as every division had their own completely different units. Dealerships were so overwhelmed with repairs to the GM 350 when it came out, they were subbing them out to the independent repair shops. Chrysler's standardization of the 727 and the 904 in all lines was a great move.
My daily driver when I was in high school and college in the mid to late 80's was a 1972 Charger Rallye with a factory 440 and a 727. The Charger had headers and the headers used to cook the starter every so often. I bought a "lifetime warranty" starter from the now defunct Western Auto, and thankfully every time the starter got cooked by the headers they would exchange it. I got really good at getting that drivers side header out with the starter cradles inside it. I could probably do the job in a couple of hours. The other issue with headers and the big block Mopars was that some of the plug wires would always seem to be too close to the headers and they would also get cooked... Bought a ton of wire sets dealing with that...
Thinking about it now, I can’t believe the type of jobs we all used to take on, working in back lanes, in front of the house, in bad weather, underground parking lots, what a laugh! I don’t think I’ve seen anyone doing this sort of thing for decades. 4X4 trucks balanced on jack stands in front of the house, oil dripping out of empty axle housings, in the city! I’m so happy I lived at the time I did.
Unless you are going radical with a big block Mopar, the stock hi-po exhaust manifolds work pretty damn well. But, this is why I am a small block guy. Much easier to work on, lighter, smaller, and you can still make them run like hell.
I have a 65 Plymouth satellite with a 440, changing spark plugs with 2 inch TTI tubes are definitely a challenge
That is exactly why I used the HP manifolds.
You guys are making me feel better about my 64 Galaxie fastback with a 390. The spark plugs on both sides are of course above and inboard of the exhaust ports, so easy breezy, easier than a big block Chevy. The headers were no fun, and I went with shorty headers from Sanderson. Why in the age of computers and modern machinery can't anyone make headers that fit without being beaten on or some grinding done on the headers or the car. Why. They are just as much of a pain in the ass in that regard as they were in 1978 when I started selling and installing them. It has to be an industry standard to never actually install these at the header factory to see if they fit without beating a flat spot in a tube to clear the steering gear or a dent in a tube to clear a bolt related to the upper control arm mount or, or, or. Every car has its issues with this. Why, you shouldn't have to do this. I can't imagine the caniption fit I would have if I had to beat on pipes I just spent $600 on to have coated.
"adding patina / history to the car"
A laid back, easy like Sunday mornin' perspective...
Excellent.
I’ve got a duster with a 440 and full length headers, I can drop the K member with engine trans in about an hour and everything becomes easy! I cut holes in the inner fenders to access the plugs, so much easier and you can hardly see the holes.
Im In the process of putting a big block in my duster would love to see pictures of how yours is and what headers are you running? Thank you have a great day
Including removal of the torsion bars , lower control arms , steering box ,drive shaft, shifter linkage ,radiator hoses , trans cooler lines,etc?
In an Hour ? BS!
@@donberry5677 I don’t remove the lower control arms or the steering box, that all stays on the K member. I just knock the torsion back and disconnect the steering shaft.
@@donberry5677 You don't have to remove the torsion bars, that k-member will droop far enough to make everything much more accesable without removing the T-Bars. Once you do it this way the first time and learn where to ziptie your wires out of the way(I lengthened the wiring to my ignition box and made it easy to free the harness from it's clips and a couple things like that. Also Neversieze on all the fasteners 'cuz you're going to be doing this again eventually, lol) it's not awful. Ask the man who's stuffed big blocks in a couple A-Bodies.
@@donberry5677 Most of what you mentioned never needs touched. He said drop the K member to make it easy to access bolts and make room to get the trans out, he never said anything about taking the k member completely out because you don't have to. The trans should come right out if the k member is lowered, never touching anything you mentioned except unhooking the stuff off of the transmission. In a well equipped shop, truthfully it should not take an hour to get it out.................
I discovered early on that Mopar guys are a little crazy. Growing up we always joked about the Mopar guys being a little off. They were the friends that you didn't want your parents to meet.
When I began watching UTG's videos years ago, I cringed to see the tools and parts thrown around on the fenders and what not, but now I don't even notice anymore. You'll never see me do that however, working with a cart next to the car where I can lay down everything just makes more sense to me. Nothing gets lost or forgotten, nothing falls in the wrong places. But don't change anything UT, it's a Mopar thing I get it. Cheerz
My father had his own shop since 1979 and is a diehard Chevy guy, because he worked on 1 Mopar with headers.....lol.
All jokes aside. these aren't the only ones that are like that. A 2wd Nissan pickup is almost as bad. Come to think of it pretty much anything with a Torsion Front End is just a nightmare to work on. I broke down and bought the GM Torsion Tool to remove the torsion bars on all GM vehicles because of this. Pretty much all Headers (any make and model) complicate things, especially when it comes to the starters. Big Block Fords have those slip joint headers, that work very well, as long as they've never run. After a year or two, they don't like to come apart or go back together like they used to. Mopar's are the King of Pain in it all, but all the others aren't far behind.
Great Video as always UTG, and to Josh...... keep Embracing the Suck, it's worth it in the end man!
First things last, use the v6 mini van starter, its smaller and high torque. Hedman headers only have an issue with #6, I use the plug wrench from a BMW, but any chainsaw wrench(crimped pipe with hole for screwdriver) will work like butter. Ger Pertronix and never deal with ballast resistor, module, or pick up coil again. Between the mini van starter, Pertronix, and way to big a carb, my 440 starts so fast it surprises me and scares the kids. ticVROOM!!!
Mopar guys are like Submarine Crew , they know that the submarine could sink and become their Iron Coffin at any moment - but they won't stop singing the praises of working on a Sub, and they won't ever stop doing what they do!
This is why I'm going for the easy reach spark plug Hemi option in my Barracuda :)
Problem solved!
Yep, it's tough to beat a Hemi for plug changes.
I ran a Hemi Road Runner for several years and although the plug changes were tolerable, pulling the driver side valve cover was a Bear to say the least !
@@donberry5677 Yeah, for that reason I'm seriously considering a hydro boost system. It's orginally a 318 car so I'm not worried about keeping everything looking original. It's also getting converted from a column shift auto to a 4 speed.
Working on a gravel driveway at 17 y/o, trying to learn and work on your 1st car makes you grow up quick
Exactly how I learned! 1985 Plymouth Reliant K car. Had to rebuild the top end then dad gave it to me. Two weeks later I realized the front seal on the tranny was out from sitting dry for almost a year, car was down for another two weeks but I learned that I loved Mopar that month.
Car sat for a year just cuz Dad didn't want to mess with it, didn't take a year to do a head job 😳😳😳
Heck ya bud, been there with you done transmissions and rear diff swaps in gravel drives and an apartment parking lot, git r dun!!!
Back in the ‘70’s I put max wedge factory exhausts on a 440. It helped with the starter, but changing plugs was a pain. I still got the scraps and burns to prove it. 😂😂
You can usually (depending on brand header and size) loosen the header except for the front bolt (leave it in but loose) and swing the header down, do what you need with the starter, and swing the header back up and reinstall the bolts
And pray so hard the exhaust gasket isn’t flaked or crumbly.
I grew up with b body mopars my 70 charger R/T, SE. seemed normal to work on because I didn't work on anything else. But then I was asked to change the spark plugs on a v8 monza and it was a real pain. The result was that I removed 3 different brands of spark plugs from the engine so I guess these were previous failed attempts to change them. I was young and skinny with skinny arms and hands that helped. I learned afterwards that to change the spark plugs in the monza required to remove the engine mounts and tilt the engine to get access to remove the plugs. Sheesh! Anyway so the plugs on my charger were a piece of cake. Until the headers went in. That lasted about 2 weeks and put the oem manifolds back in, because the headers leaked! So to me! Mopars are easy to work on.
This man's advice is priceless. Especially for us young guys just getting into this stuff. Was planning on putting headers on the 360 but I like being able to get all my plugs out in 2 minutes.
Took me three hours to do the plugs in my 09 300. Apart from having to disassemble the entire induction system, much of this lives under the cowl where it is close to impossible to get the EGR tube back into the intake. Thanks Mopar.
Plug changes aren't that bad on a small block with headers. It's the big block that sucks.
Subaru BRZ is a pain too
Everything u just said is true. I remember my 69 charger 440. Plugs were a project with the headers and a headache to change starter. Ahhh the good Ole days!
Beautiful car Josh. A real car is made to be driven; Love the answer you gave. Every dent and scratch adds to patina, character and memories ; good memories 👍
Had a high compression 440 in a 68 charger the thing ate starters found out the Direct Conection race starter 3x the price of normal was well worth the money spent 😀
The header thing is universal, especially with long tubes. It's a lot of sacrifice as far as working room. Also wrap your starter in some heat shield
I put them on a '65 Mustang coupe. Passenger side practically fell in but the driver's side more than made up for it. What a pain in the ass!
I never ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever EVER want to install a full length header on the passenger side of an 83 caprice EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER AGAIN
Long tube headers on an Ls3 with a hoist was challenging enough
They aren’t that bad! I did a bunch of work on a 68 Charger with a 440 and long-tube headers for a customer, and by the end of it I could have the plugs, headers, and starter all out of the car in under an hour. I did ultimately put a mini-starter in that car, which could be slid in with the header still in the car but the bolts loose, and that made getting the driver’s side header in and out much easier!
Brother when you said Mopar guys are a little touched I could not stop laughing 😂. Man I respect you more and more everyday love the content brother keep it up. Tell that guy to pull the engine with the tranny he probably would of been done by now. My first muscle car was a 1970 dodge dart custom Canada car loved it and miss it. Have a great day all of you.
I once bought a used 70 Plymouth Fury II ex police car. I decided to tune it up as it had a miss. This was a “professionally” maintained car. There were three types of spark plugs in it. One was original. With 40,000 miles. I love 383-440 cats.
To add more joy, pull the front and rear studs from the exhaust, and use header bolts there too. that way you need to drain the coolant too.
Starter for the 90s Magnum engine fits much better with headers and is about 10lbs lighter. $90 bucks at the local auto supply.
I was about to say, go with the hitachi starter
Thanks for bringing back all those nightmares of changing my starter and spark plugs on my 69 383 Roadrunner. My girlfriend's mother told her that she never heard anybody curse like that and she shouldn't go with me, I was changing out the starter in her driveway because the rebuilt one that I had put in 2 weeks ago died the night before when I went to pick her up. She married me anyway!
I’m a mini starter kind of guy! Definitely a help. Tell him to put new plugs in while he’s got those out! Good luck, Josh. Thanks UTG. But I can’t say it! 😂
It's getting a mini starter, but the header still has to be pulled to change it.
@@UncleTonysGarage I have a stack of exhaust manifolds If he needs them.
Would iridium plugs be advisable in this situation for longer life? If they even make them for this application.
What is the problem with headers an plugs? One of the benefits when I build headers for my 383 was, it made changing plugs so much easier, like maybe 5 minutes.
I'm with ya Joe. I can't say it either! LOL
Had a 400 cop car and went through 5 starters until I received a correct starter. 100 degrees in a parking lot paved with asphalt and it was easy by the end
I went with fenderwell headers when I put the 440 in my '67 Barracuda. Spark plugs are still a pain in the rear, but install and removal of the headers is not bad. We all feel this guys pain!!!
I used to get really annoyed with having to deal with coolant when removing an exhaust manifold on Chrysler (Mopar) products. Took me years as a tech to get past my hatred of all things Mopar. When I opened my transmission shop my parking lot became quickly filled with Dodge Caravans and I realized, OK, you're paying my bills, brings it on!
Great. I have a '69 318 Satellite and a 440 waiting to be swapped in. But first I want to play with the 318 based on Tony's shenanigans!!
the 318 build Tony and Vizard are doing is going to be interesting. Looking forward to it.
My neighbor used to say "if a kid dropped an ice cream cone on the corner, your Mopar wouldn't start"
The good bad and the ugly but true, when I was young back in the late 70's I worked in a auto repair shop and Mopar was not our favorite. It sealed the deal when a customer came in with a Dart that had a 426 Hemi conversion, beautiful factory blue metallic with white interior. Now I know why the customer didn't want to work on it anymore after doing all the shoe horning to get that monster in it. The owner let his brother drive it who went over a railroad crossing at speed and kissed the oil pan on landing, one Moroso oil pan turned to scrap, luckily didn't knock a hole in it or delete oil pressure.
When i was a kid it took me a day to replace a starter on my 440 with hooker headers. With out the lift laying in the driveway takes about an hour blind folded. 833 takes a little longer fighting the z bar.
I've always loved Mopar muscle cars but could only afford Chevys. I guess it was a blessing in disguise cuz that looks way harder than it should be. But you know what I still want to get an old Mopar one of these days.
Interesting. In the early 80s I loved Chevys but bought Mopars because they were more affordable at the time. Owned 2 A bodies and a Challenger.
Mopars are easy to work on...Every Chevy guy I know complain about working on their cars..
My Pop always said: "Buying a Dodge is like marrying a nanny goat. You MIGHT get a good'un but you'll ALWAYS be ashamed of it."
I never owned any 67-69 B Body Mopars. I did have a 4.40 powered 62 Plymouth Sport Fury bracket car and my $25.00 set of headers fit in like Butta' In fact I LEFT the exhaust studs in the heads. it made it easier to hang the headers! It was a breeze changing spark plugs also
This is a great video. Really great. Makes a guy really appreciate a slant 6.
mini starter is the best thing i ever did on charger with headers, still need to pull the column out but makes it much easier its half the size
I've found that same procedure works best for me also .
Those old B bodies are just practice for when you start working on the later ones with iso-frames and iso-torsion bar mounts.
Mid 80s I was doing tune-ups, just a kid out of high school from Minnesota in Dallas. The other guys always gave me the Mopars and the European cars, really didn't mind either. The only 440 I remember with headers was in because the guy stuck in a performance distribution all kinds of screwed up. Charger RT I told him I'd work on it after hours, it'd take a while. Yeah it took like four minutes to put wires on where they belonged and set the timing. Then we beat the hell out of it that night.
Aaaah, memories haha. xD ive done this on an A body with full length headers and a factory starter. What a pain in the ass. Also did this on a dodge D100 with full length headers. The starter is a pain also. Its just a feature of headers. Haha get a mini starter for clearance and its also better. Like a 98 Ram starter. Works great!!
You're right. Headers really suck. The performance gain on a street beater with headers is not worth the grief. Run cast iron manifolds. They worked well from the factory. Unless it's going to be a dedicated race only vehicle, make your life easier. Go back to cast iron manifolds. And use quality NGK sparkplugs.
I remember my Uncle Tony working on his barracuda swearing up a storm and my Uncle Al laughing saying you should have bought a Camaro! This post brought me back to my childhood. Thx good stuff UTG
I'm a poor guy who started driving in the late 90's, so I've never had anything with headers. I've mostly had small block Chevy cars. I've only had one mopar and it was a '77 D-100 Adventurer pick-up with a 318. Not a straight panel on it including the bumpers. But I loved it. I'd love to find another one.
Glad I went with TTi's, they snake around the torsion bars wonderfully!
We've got hedders on our 66 LeMans, it's not so much the hedders being the issue, it's the angle of the heads that point down at a weird angle. Every time he has to replace a hedder flange gaskets I remind him that it would be so much easier if we just put a Chevy small block into it, but Mr. Purist wants to keep it all Pontiac......lol.
I'm a firm believer that headers suck in general, especially long tube ones. What space was there is now gone 😕
Big Block fever is overstated for some cars. Dude I knew super-charged a 289 in a Fairlane. It sounded amazing and had lots of street power.
I'm a Chevy guy that hates headers in general. Too much headache for their benefits.
Almost as fun as wrestling the exhaust manifolds out of a 5.3L or 6.0L Jaguar V12 😒
Josh, we have all been there, stick with it, it's worth it in the end.
I remember working at the dealer in 70s and 8ties we got paid peanuts to re& re transmission under warranty luckily we didn't have to deal with headers.
I took a saws all to a 440 68 Charger on each side and made a cover over the hole with stove bolts. You could do all of that by putting it on jackstands pull the front tires and the plate you made and a mid length Snap On socket with a sink washer drilled out and a long extension and a flex bent handle ratchet and they come right out, the starter comes off, the header bolts come out some with a custom wrench and it will come out.
They all have their ups and downs, I don’t think I’ve ever looked at any vehicles engine bay and thought to myself…….yes, this is so well thought out, I’d love to replace parts on it.
You have grasped an essential secret of the universe.
4 come to mind, but I'm positive I was wrong about one of them. The first 3 are all interchangeable: any early 70s fullsize pickup truck. #4 is C4 Corvettes with the tilt nose. I don't believe they're as easy as they look, but they did look easy at the time.
Finally…a video title that speaks to me 😫
'We're not all there'. I heard that, and I resemble that. Hence the mini-starter.
I've been a long time Mopar geek forever, well actually 35 years. I never realized they suck. I've done all kinds of impossible wrenching on them and just accepted it as the way it is. Learn something everday!
Champion had a rash of defective spark plugs when they first came out with copper core spark plugs. The short term fix was to tell the parts stores to go up one heat range, but switching to AC spark plugs was a better choice at the time. The NGK spark plugs usually worked well. The old Autolite plugs outlasted the Motorcraft plugs when copper core plugs first came about.
Uncle Tony.
I
Love you brother man.
Thanks again for being such a freggin legend.
I’ll never forget shaking your hand and petting my dog.
A real connection of brother men ❤️
I had a 318 valiant.
I got dual exhaust put on.
I was so
Happy.
Then my starter failed.
And I crawl under there…
And the new exhaust blocks in the starter.
I feel your pain.
Wish I had someone like you when I was learning!😂
I’ve been running a small block Chevy in all my cars since 84, and I’ve never used AC plugs. I’ve ran Champions, Accell, Autolite,and recently started using NGKs. My latest car is a G-body that I had to remove the AC box to get my set of circle track headers on. I’m also running angle plug heads, which makes it a real bitch to change, or check my plugs. I had to take a short 5/8 socket, have the 3/8 drive drilled out, and have flats milled on the O.D. to make it, so where I can change them. I can pull a few of the plugs out to read them, but there’s the few that I’m not gonna mess with, until I actually see a reason to change the whole set. That why I’m running the Iridium plugs. If the few plugs I can keep checking on look good, then I can be confident that the rest are ok. If I see a problem, then, I gotta get that special socket out, and spend a bunch of time, and effort, replacing them all. Trust me! I’ve been hearing this since the early 80s. If you wanna play..You gotta pay! Whether it’s money or time!
My first cars where all Mopars from Chargers, Challengers to Dusters.
Loved them all but got away from them and went to GM for a few reasons- parts back then for Mopars was double than GM and to work on them was always a PIA.
I still do love them
The late big block police and motor home heads take 5/8 inch spark plugs, which give more header space than 13/16 inch spark plugs on other big block heads.
I worked for a Plymouth dealer back in 1969, and I remember the mechanics hated to replace the right side rear spark plug on the big blocks. Occasionally they would do a tune up and skip that plug, unless it was misfiring. Occasionally a tune-up would come back later, that plug fouled between tune-ups. Replacing that plug required loosening a motor mount and jacking the engine up a little. Some guys would cut a hole in the firewall, under the glove compartment, so they could get to it.
Remember the old anti oil foul caps for plugs, back in the day old tired oil burners were common. definitely didn't improve performance but then again a dead hole doesn't either. Some mechanic in a can additive anti foul caps new points and run it in to the ground then put it out to pasture by the woods line out back with the other dead soldiers... #lastditcheffort
Engine design and technology got way better in the late 80s and 90s didn't it. I'm currently running a 94 f150 into the ground. and with 394 thousands miles it still don't burn oil form what i can tell. it'll leak about every drop though.
@@spudtaterson6281 yeah I have a 95 mustang gt it doesn't burn a drop but the rear main is toast I have to run half qt down or gets on fly wheel. Back in the day people hardly changed there oil also. Some people changed there oil 3 times, about every 35k and it was all done at 100k.
You bring back memories. I worked 3rd shift back then, I was charging rear end gears I fail a sleep under my Duster with the center section on my chest. My girlfriend found me woke me up and I finished. She was fixing supper so got cleaned up went to her apartment and fell asleep on her couch 9:00 the next morning got up loaded car then rolled it over 4 /12 times
Removing a dead starter on my 70 Hemi Super Bee, with big tube headers, and some thoughtful previous owner had welded the slip joints, not just tacks, but welded as far as was possible. There was no money in the budget for anything like new headers, so I spent many nights with a very small triangular file, working at those welds. It’s worse than it sounds, because the welds were harder than the tubes, so the file always wanted to slip off.
7:40 "Quality Control Going Right Out The Window" the AFTERMARKET FOR SURE!.
I bought $850 JBA headers for 70 Mustang ABSOLUTE GARBAGE. and a Dynacorn Door that won't latch! 🤬
This is hilarious. I have an old 89 Jeep talk about a love hate relationship..lol..I love MOPARS!
I'm a new subscriber. I'm a Mopar guy. Back in the day I ran a real max wedge car. All of what you said about B bodies and headers is true. Especially the plugs, wires and starter. But...... When that 440 comes to life and runs right, it's worth all the hassles. You see, I'm brain damaged too. From Ohio
Makes me feel so lucky to have a Pontiac V8. The heads are designed with. Extra long exhaust runners compared to a SBC/SBM/SBF/BBM, to the point where the spark plugs are probably a good 2" away from the exhaust flanges. Hardest part of getting my headers in was just the bolts. Didn't even have to remove plug wires!
The mini starter is a little easier to fit in.
I've heard the starter for a Dodge Dakota with V-8 will fit great and has adequate torque to spin a Big block Mopar, and is considerably more affordable than aftermarket mini starters.
Accell plug wires ACC-9045C ceramic boots last set you’ll need won’t burn on headers , exspensive but worth it.
I like my small blocks in my cars with manifolds and my big blocks in trucks with headers for these reasons. On the trucks i make the inner fenders easily removable and then removing the wheel for open access for work. Trucks are cool.
I had 2 B bodies with big blocks; this is why I ended up using magnum HP exhaust manifolds that I ported out and polished.
Just advise the guy to pull the whole caboodle out in one. Then he can get his jobs done easier and maybe give it all a quick wire brush and paint. Then the only struggle left would be putting the headers back on or maybe make your own better fitting ones 🤔.
✌️🇬🇧
I have a 440 with longtube headers in my '66 Belvedere, it has manual brakes, manual steering and the shifter's on the floor so no linkage to fight, much better than this scenario but still a minor beating.
Tony, does the later mini starter make this any better on a 440 B-Body with longtubes?
If the oil pan is flattened at all it's a good time to removes the pan n clean out the Gack. Beat the pan back to shape n install a wind age tray
My 6 month old AC Delco plugs were all rusted too. Mechanic was trying to tell me they were ancient and I had neglected the truck but I was telling him that I JUST swapped plugs 6 months to a year ago and he couldn’t believe it from the rust.
I've done a lot of thinking about this situation over the years, I believe that the solution is to custom make headers patterned after the old max wedge exhaust manifolds. Make accommodations for the master cylinder, heater fan. Would probably have to make the tubes shorter than the long tube design. Those old max wedge manifold worked very good, but won't fit in 1966 and later b bodies, and we're cast iron.
Back in the early 80's I built a V8 Vega with the hooker headers and mount kit. That setup sucked as well. Quick car but a nightmare to work on.
And I always thought my buddy put thru the fenderwell header's in his sixtynine RT was because they're Cool, now I see there was other Cool reasons... I know pulling the torqflite out of my 70 CUDA wasn't too bad, but this was a Long time ago....
You are correct sir I have changed many starters in the snow
You need a 13/16 snap on hydraulic angle wrench. Snap on has a patent on the angles they use for there hydraulic wrenches that’s different then every other brand. With that wrench, plug socket, and a wobble extension I can do the plug on my 69 roadrunner with a 440 power steering running vintage Doug’s headers 1 5/8 I believe, the plugs on my 70 roadrunner with 383 power steering running vintage headman headers 1 3/4, and also on my 73 roadrunner 440 drag car running vintage big hooker super comps. A few are still challenging but I never have to get underneath and can usually do them in 30 min or so if I don’t mess around.
yeah, did the starter laying in header cradle install on my 1974 "CUDA with a 440. I used the trcuck replacement one whicah was too big. so if you can get a tiny race starter they are much lighter
In HS I had a ‘70 Charger R/T 440 auto. Header tube on driver’s side cracked and I had to get it out and up to school for welding. My solution was to take apart the top half of the PS pump to get the header off the studs. Big mistake. First start up after re-installation, the steering wheel jacked full right lock with no input from me! (I drove it😨)
Tony, the old saying, 3 MOPARS AND A PHILLIPS HEAD SCREWDRIVER YOU GOT A GOOD START ON A JUNKYARD!
On my molars I like headers that come apart in pieces , way easier to take apart and pull out . My challenger all you have to do is take of # 7 pipe and my clutch fork and the starter is out . My duster with fender wells is a dream though lol
Heh they continued that with the partnership with Mitsubishi, 8 hrs to pull and replace the alternator brushes on their transverse V6. Intake runners, EGR and other things have to come off and the alternator is moved and rotated like something in 3d tetris to get it out.
Uncle Tony, would you please do a video on "run on", you know when you turn off the ignition and the engine continues to run even though there is no power provided to the coil. also called" dieseling". This was quite the deal in the 1980s, then they added the idle control solenoid. Thank ou for considering this .
Me and my 64 GMC 4x4 with the removable transmission tunnel are laughing hysterically at this trip through the Mopar big block torture chamber And yes it has headers.
Never had a problem with mine..What would suck if I woke up and had a Crappy Chevy!