At Home Toyota BRZ / FRS Frame Pulling in under 30 Seconds
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- Опубликовано: 13 окт 2024
- My friend has been trying to get a body shop to fix his FRS for over a year and we fixed it in less than a day!!!
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David Nenno
That’s what friends are for, when you can count on them to come through. Good video👍🏼
Great job on the back end of that rig! Thanks for the informative video content! 👍
If you can pull frame with a truck batter than framers, that’s what I call professional DIYer.
DIY engineering...love it💪🏿💪🏿💪🏿
Nice to help out a mate Dave!!🤙🤙🤙
Whoever did that framework didn't know what they were doing. That's pretty obvious with the way the trunk didn't fit correctly, which anyone could easily see. When are you getting your own frame machine Dave" If you can use a truck as a frame machine, no doubt you'd do wonders with a real frame machine. I guess that's one for your new shop after you move. ll the best from Queensland Australia.
Yeah a full frame machine and spot welder is on the list
I had to pull my radiator support forward so I could pull my radiator, condenser, and cooling fans out. Took a 8" wide heavy duty tow strap and wrapped it around a tree. Attached a come-a-long to the strap hoops and hooked the other end to the radiator support. I had to pull from three different spots since the driver side was pushed back about 10". The closer to the center the less I had to pull forward. It got the job done and I was able pull everything out so I could see if anything on the engine was damaged. The entire radiator support will need to be replaced. It'll just be a matter of time to get the money, get the parts, and be able to pay a shop to do the work. Wish I had the equipment and skills to do it all myself, but I'd rather have a shop with a frame alignment machine do it so everything is straight. It also needs the entire driver side left front frame support assembly replaced. I was able to get the entire assembly brand new for $150 through a discount warehouse vendor. A hell of a deal compared to $750 through a dealer or body parts vendors. That's a lot of spot welds along with the radiator support assembly. I thought about just getting the frame rails and the front panels of the strut tower/fender well, but finding the entire assembly for such a cheap price will be easier than trying to piece everything back together on the new frame rails. Just pull the whole thing out and put the new in.
Dave you’re amazing, you have such a gift
Is that my seat bracket? 😂
Dave, didn't know you were 6'8" man! I'm 6'5" and feel tight in those old 240Z's 🤣. Props to you using it as a daily driver
Spot Weld King to the Rescue
I'm in a similar situation. Shops are a hassle to deal with
A GM V8 in that little car is gonna be awesome.
In a straight line...
@@mizinoinovermyhead.7523 NAh it's going to be a full time attack car. Full aero wide body wide tires etc. There are some LS ones winning classes in NASA
@@Shiftheads Lol you are moving a lot of weight forward of the front wheels and higher up in the car. It'll drastically affect turn in, braking performance, mid corner stability and so on. Keep in mind that the boxer engine is shorter, lighter, and lower than the LT. The 10 speed (I assume thats what you plan on using since you said it but the same would hold true for the TR6060 or basically any other transmission you use) is longer than the stock transmission, so you'll either have to move the gear shifter back or the engine forward just to use it. Either way however you'll basically be adding the length of two cylinders to the front of the front of the block. Getting balance out of it is going to be a major pain. You'd get a better car out of it by replacing the boxer for with the boxer 6 from a porsche.
Can getting the LT to work be done while mitigating its short comings? Sure. Will it ever handle as well as the stock car? No. Would you be better served getting it running and selling it for a camaro SS? Absolutely.
Face it at the end of the day its not going to want to turn in, its not going to want to put the power to the rear wheels. You are going to depend on the lightness of the chassis and the raw power of the V8 to allow you to squirt from corner exit to corner entrance, thats where it will make its lap time. It will be punishing to drive quickly as if you try and get on the gas earlier the rear will kick, brake later and turn in will be non-existent.
You want to build what you want to build more power to you, but going in thinking it'll be something its not will only end with you in a tire barrior.
@@mizinoinovermyhead.7523 I'm guessing you haven't done your research or driven these at speed on the track. This guy isn't an incredible driver and did 1:35 at laguna seca on a LS3 brz without crazy aero, slicks, etc.. ruclips.net/video/d-D-XhAx3E0/видео.html The v8 actually sits further back in the brz than the crappy FA20. The FA20 is needlessly far forward. You can see the whole front half of the transmission with stock motor in the engine bay.
The T56 magnum actually requires no modification of shifter hole at all when installing in the 86 chassis.
It's a 2850lb car with LT/LS engine. The only way you're getting a FA20 close to the same HP or is with a supercharger or Turbo both of which add weight to the front and heat like crazy. This car will turn in and have no problem accelerating out of turns. How do I know? Because I've driven one just like it LOL
Love from New Mexico
Dang now I want Green Chili...
Afternoon mate
Guys, until you can get the swap done do what Legit street cars did with his little toyota and just get it up in the air and replace the spun one with a new one it'll get the car driving at least for a bit.
That's actually a pretty good idea while I build the stuff on the side. It's just that the FA20 is worth so much in running condition so I'm tempted to just pull it and fix it and sell it for 4k before I blow up another one. Only issue is they have an upper oil pan so trying to see if I can do it in the car still
Thought I was on the wrong channel for a sec
man id love a FRS with a Subaru flat 6
Good video
Nice job
I would have chocked the car in place and used a truck with a winch to pull it with greater precision. Still, you got it pretty close.
Nice one guys
The yoinkmaster 350
Then build his blown up boxer for the seafoam bug
There is a boxer motor next to the LT
It has two rods through the top of the block 😂
Yeah those inspection holes create quite the mess 😂
First comment & like frm india❤️
Привет 👍
Do a 2J swap!!!!
There is a six second one like that. My issue is that the 2j cost so much right now and get more and more rare all the time. Gm engines are dime a dozen and easy to find engine management and canbus translators etc to make it like factory also
One expensive ass limited function frame machine
Learn from him dude.
Stop working on all these cars and finish the wagon!!!
If you dont turn down the post flow, you'll be changing that bottle out every other day.
Thank you. I wondered why I ran out of first bottle so fast. I think it set postflow automatically with preset but I'll manually turn it down
@@Shiftheads I was surprised at how much gas I went through when I first tried gas. But I did the math and it's legit, 10 cfh on the flow gauge... 10 cf bottle. It all adds up.
@@bgee461 yeah it's crazy