Build Your Own Buffer!
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- High quality buffers are the best remedy for the dreaded tone suck that many guitar and bass players experience when using their pedalboards. Today, the Rig Doctor is showing you how to build your own Pedalboard Buffer Interface along with several diagrams and templates to customize your interface with the options you desire, including: mono, stereo, wet/dry, 4 cable method, tuner out, audition loop, splitters, and more!
⬇️ DIY BUFFER INTERFACE DIAGRAMS, TEMPLATES, & MATERIALS ⬇️
Mono - vertexeffects....
Mono w/Tuner Out - vertexeffects....
Mono w/Splitter - www.vertexeffe...
Mono w/Audition Loop - vertexeffects....
4 Cable Method (FX Loop) - vertexeffects....
Wet/Dry - vertexeffects....
Stereo - vertexeffects....
Buy VERTEX Pedalboards HERE:
reverb.com/sho...
Buy VERTEX Cables HERE:
reverb.com/sho...
Buy VERTEX Pedals HERE:
vertexeffects....
🔻 //rig consulting//🔻
PRIVATE: www.therigdr.c...
GROUP: www.therigdr.c...
🔈 //podcast// 🔈
Apple: apple.co/36dSQzK
Spotify: spoti.fi/2WGLku8
⬇️ //recommended materials// ⬇️
//buffers//
Vertex DIY - vertexeffects....
Mesa Boogie High-Wire (dual buffer) - bit.ly/2lZwS0s
Empress Stereo Buffer - amzn.to/33lyvHk
Vertex Boost - amzn.to/3hVwvN2
TC Bonafide Buffer (output buffer only - you'll need two) - amzn.to/2vrTSug
//power supply//
CIOKS DC7 - amzn.to/3d4qOty
CIOKS 8 - amzn.to/2zW5YOn
CIOKS 4 - amzn.to/33jWAOZ
Truetone CS6 - amzn.to/2wWLbII
Truetone CS7 - amzn.to/2x1Nf2k
Truetone CS12 - amzn.to/33rfLq3
Voodoo Lab x4 - amzn.to/2ILwKtP
Strymon Zuma - amzn.to/3dpZANe
Strymon Ojai - amzn.to/3evVXGE
Strymon Zuma R300 - amzn.to/2ZgLclt
IEC Plug Covers - bit.ly/34fpGl3
//pedalboard patch cables//
VERTEX Patch Cables - reverb.com/sho...
//instrument cables//
VERTEX Instrument Cables - reverb.com/sho...
//dc power cables//
2.1mm DC Power Plugs (right angle) - bit.ly/2pGqXzI
2.1mm DC Power Plugs (straight) - bit.ly/36wd1sA
Bulk Power Cables (pre made) - amzn.to/3ev1q0t
//midi//
MIDI Plugs (right angle) - bit.ly/2oKHDFG
MIDI Plugs (straight) - bit.ly/32fNNLF
MIDI Cable (bulk) - amzn.to/2tPAHWQ
//pedalboards, lifts, risers, bridges//
Pedalboard Surfaces - reverb.com/sho...
Pedal Risers/Lifts/Bridges - reverb.com/sho...
//velcro//
3M Dual Lock SJ3550 (for pedal) - amzn.to/2TP1rlu
3M Dual Lock SJ3551 (for base) - amzn.to/2I8a7SG
//cable management//
Zip Ties - amzn.to/2HP1Ulv
Tie Down Mounts - amzn.to/2r5ZkAN
//pedalboard tools//
Soldering Iron - amzn.to/2TTdMI4
Solder (60/40) - amzn.to/2U7XhsD
Solder Dispenser - amzn.to/2GpgMpR
Octopus Arms - amzn.to/2V3O8OD
Wire Strippers (30-20 AWG) - amzn.to/2BBMI6n
Wire Strippers (20-10 AWG) - amzn.to/2EbhBR3
Wire Snips - amzn.to/2EazwqU
Vise - amzn.to/2E9eTLO
Heat Gun (embossing gun) - amzn.to/2BwGdlm
Label Maker - amzn.to/2BCBcHU
Label Maker Tape (black) - amzn.to/2Cd3CZe
Label Maker Tape (clear) - amzn.to/34piDD4
Deoxit D5 Contact Cleaner - amzn.to/2GEm4gu
Truetone Milliamp (mA) Reader - amzn.to/2F9v3VN
Tone Brush - amzn.to/2HIfze3
Upholstery Crow Bar - amzn.to/2HIOU0K
Multimeter - amzn.to/2YW9BdE
Goo Gone - amzn.to/31rGJeS
👇 CLICK BELOW FOR ALL DIY DIAGRAMS 👇
DIY Power Cables: vertexeffects.....
DIY Interface: vertexeffects....
DIY Buffers: vertexeffects....
CONTRIBUTORS:
Hunter Harrison - Mixing, Audio Editing
Mason Mejia - Co-Producing, Editing
Mason Marangella - Co-Producing
Nico Sotomayor - Videographer
#PedalboardBuffer #DIYBuffer #BufferInterface
For all DIY Buffer Interface diagrams, templates, and materials, including: mono, stereo, wet/dry, and 4 cable method CLICK HERE 👉 vertexeffects.com/diy-buffer
Thanks brotha!
🙏🙏🙏
Thanks so much!
@@philippgrunert8776 🥰🥰🥰
awesome thanks
VERTEX, a company that SELLS products and absolutely has every right to be secretive of how to do stuff, but instead the owner teaches you how to DIY things that could potentially impact his company revenues. You sir, are a class act! Fantastic how you are willing to teach and empower everyone. 👏🏻
I just finished my pedalboard interface inspired by your diy dual mono buffer + audition loop and it sounds awesome! The signal has much more clarity, everything sounds better and the connections to the board are tidy and easy. Thank you very much! I love your channel!
That's awesome!
Wow this is awesome. This solved the issues on where to place the buffer. No need for having two buffer for input and output. Good job doc 👌👍🏻
🥰🥰🥰 our pleasure!
Honestly one of the best electrical DIY videos I've seen. Great job dude, I'll probably be making one of this soon.
I'm so glad you dig it!
Uncle Mason!!!! So about a year ago (or whenever it was) you posted on how to make a pedalboard interface box to have all my ins/outs run through one enclosure. Been very, very useful! I built a 4 cable assembly inside some braided pet sleeve to run between pedalboard and amp, and it has made setting up the 4 cable method quick and easy.
Now I will just replace those nylon isolated Neutrik jacks with these buffers! Thanks so much for your continuing to teach all of us.
Perfect 👌. This will work just great!
Love the outward focus on making us all sound better, know more and enjoy more. Simply… thanks MM.
This is truly an amazing idea Mason! So many thanks to you for bringing this kind of information, diagrams, etc., directly to the average, at home DIY players! This video is gold!!
🙏🙏🙏 hope you find it helpful!
Great video! Not only did it inspire me to build a buffer as a project, it gave me a better understanding of what buffers do and why they are necessary for every board. Now - it should be pointed out that you are not saving any money here...in fact, with the cost of those buffer jacks alone, this costs more than two TrueTone or JHS buffers. Your time also has value, so this is far more expensive than buying one that is already made. However, I think it is a very cool project and I am all in.
rig doctor you are a king!! love you!
🥰🥰🥰🥰
Get a room..
- JK
I feel the same way
Alright! Now, this is the video I was waiting for! Thank you, Mason! Cheers from Pasadena!
Please enjoy!
Thank you Mason! this is amazing, when i saw your video of the John Mayer Pedalboard i went immediately to the vertex website to see if you were selling this box, it is awesome that you´ve taken the time to explain how to do it, you are the man!
This is much more sophisticated than that, this is fully active, multiple Buffer options, what was on the John Mayer Pedalboard was all passive.
@@VertexEffectsInc yes, that is what i was thinking, this one is active, on the JM video you didnt pluged this box, quick question, for a pasive box you only need to connect the jacks?
Correct, just pass throughs
I ordered all the materials for the mono configuration. Maybe it was more convenient for me to buy the Vertex buffer already done, because the international shipping costs are high. But I decided to go for the DIY option in order to build it as a personal and customizable project. Thank you so much!!
Such a great timing as I was planing on building a new pedalboard ! Thank you so much, cheers from France
Amazing! This should be everything you need!
thank you mason the best pedalboard builder for sure
Wow, thanks!
Thanks for the wealth of information. I never fail to learn something.
🙏🙏🙏
Mason, thanks. I am in on learning these skills. This will be the beginning of the learning process for me. Great stuff and such great value for us.
Thanks JT! Please spread the word! Thanks for watching!!!
Can’t wait to build my own. Thanks again!
My pleasure 🥰🥰🥰🥰
The video we were waiting for!!! Thank you Doc!
🥰🥰🥰
Thank you Mason. This will be my next project. 👍
I’m so glad!
These videos are very informative, thank you for uploading them!
I’m so glad you find it useful
🔥🔥🔥🤘. This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks Mason for making this video.
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You are a helluva guy to show us how to do this! THANK YOU!
Our pleasure!!!
OH man I can't wait until this comes out. I think I'm going to figure out how to integrate this into my Vertex style patch bay. Luckily I used a larger enclosure to accommodate the extra parts....
You should have all the information to make anything you want from mono, stereo, 4cm, wet/dry, and more!
That’s awesome thanks for the link I didn’t really dive through all the links yet. I’m a cheap polock so I might make my own buffers and goop them to an old mouse trap LOL
This will be about the cheapest you can make them, using all of our diagrams and parts list
Mason, I've been a diy/tinker for along time. Just as a matter of preference, I do or would do some things differently than you. That said, it's pretty awesome that you make these videos. I know a few people that gave that little passive patch bay you did a while back. They all ended up learning other things in the process. I guess what I'm getting at is thanks man. Also, I love the SSS.
Jason, thanks for watching and for the feedback. I'd always love to hear from DIYers how they thing these things could be presented better - it only helps the final product so feel free to share if you have an alliterative or better method. My confines are the four walls of my brain LOL, so that leave a good margin for error.
@@VertexEffectsInc the things I'd do different are just to do with my setup specifically. All of these are good ideas. You're presentation is great and has motivated at least a few people I know to learn more and try something they may have otherwise found intimidating. I think that's a good thing regardless of the subject matter.
@@diminishedseventh any suggestions on set ups we didn't cover in the diagrams? The main one I didn't to, on purpose, was those with galvanic isolation, mostly because the transformers for this aren't ideal that are inexpensive.
@@VertexEffectsInc I gotta say, I didn't expect this much engagement, but I don't get to nerd out that often. I don't know that I have any suggestions really. I don't generally like to include any transformers in a guitar setup that aren't strictly necessary. I don't recall hearing you mention it, but I assumed that was at least partly why you liked the Truetone power supplies. I don't think I could agree with you more on the point about good ground. Proper, consistent ground prevents so many annoying problems. I try as much as possible to keep cable runs as short as is reasonable and keep ground as consistent as possible. In my rig, everything in the fx loop is in a rack that sits with the amp. That came about as answer to cable lengths, but also eliminates the need to do 4-cable on the floor. I do have an A/B switch where the switching is mechanical straight to the A output, but there's a buffer on the B output. It's purpose is to facilitate two independent signal chains with the one on the A side including some old and old style fuzzes. Honestly, it's a bit inelegant though and most of the time I don't set it up . If you have thoughts for incorporating a fuzz face into an otherwise modern pedal board I'd love to hear them. I'm currently just using a Dynamic Distortion in the spot I want the fuzz. From there, I think all of your routing boxes can be a good option in certain rigs, I've just had the good fortune of getting my setup to a point that gear and it's configuration don't need those solutions. Where were these good ideas when I was 20? :)
Thanks Doc ! Can't wait to try it out.
Have fun with it, let us know if we can help!
You rock brother, thank you Dr.
You are very welcome
Great video, as always... ! keep on posting great info please.
Thanks Flanders!!!!!
Love it. Thank you!! I will build one for my self. Save me more money!
It’s a great diy option and superior to most of the buffers on the market!
Man i love ur channel... always great jobs 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
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Great video! Really nice that you share a way that this can be done.
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very,very cool Uncle Mason! Great stuff!
🥰🥰🥰🥰
Great and informative....thanx to your videos ive built numerous interfaces ect...however with your downloaded templates even set at 100 percent they come up spaced to close...not a negative....just something ive experienced....dont know why it happens 🤷....keep up the keeping up...great respects...👍
If you’re not using the jacks we spec’d then you’ll have a problem. Secondly, if you don’t print out the diagram at 100% scale in your printer settings you’ll also have a problem if you just leave it on default. I use them every week, never had a fit issue.
@@VertexEffectsInc yes i bought all consumables jacks ect from your link but the problem for me at least is in the template...even set to 100% it prints small but i havent tried altering the orientation?....i wonder if that is the problem...ill try that on next build...this wasnt in anyway a negative comment by the way...just something that happens to me...all good 👍
@@kevinjudson I would predict it has something to do with the computer, and printing to scale, it should be centered on each wall, and the lions should line up with the beginning of the edge of the wall of the enclosure. I left a slight amount of tolerance there, just in case you get slight movement when you tape it down, but it should be pretty dead on. Again I use these templates every week, I’ve never had a problem with fit.
Awesome tutorial, thanks Mason!
🙏🙏🙏
Thanks for posting this! This type of video is the stuff I love to see!
My pleasure; hope it helps
Learned so much from your channel! I'm considering buying some of your pedals! Thank you Mason!
🥰🥰🥰 we appreciate the support!
Very cool. I will be building one of these
Good Luck!
I imagine it gets tiresome answering questions. Just so you know, your responses always put a smile on my face and instills enthusiasm. That's rare man, especially since I have only met you through your videos. So thanks! Is there any wiggle room to experiment with other enclosures for the DIY buffer? Or is this something you'd advise against?
I'm so glad! Thanks for watching! You can embellish it however you want. You can mix-match different diagrams so long as you have the right number of jacks to complete circuit. In terms of the drilling, you're pretty locked into this pattern of holes unless you get a bigger enclosure and re-measure your spacing.
actually I answered my own question as I reviewed all of the diagrams on the DIY buffer page. Perhaps if I only did the Mono dual there may be some room but any of the others that require more than 2 drilled holes, there simply isn't enough room for anything other than the hammond.
I have a Keeley modded BD-2. I use the diy buffer as an input buffer on this particular rig. Because the BD-2 is a transistor based overdrive, would this make it high impedance and probably should be placed before the buffer? I did review the impedance specs of something I would put before the buffer like a Dunlop JH-F1 (10k, 115-2k) v the BD-2(1M, 1k), which as an overdrive would be placed after the buffer. Am I even looking at the correct figures to determine what should be placed before the buffer? Thanks man.
A side note, the inverse of this scenario, I have a reissue op amp Big Muff and it sounds proper placed the same way I do my higher gain drives.
Thank you, great information!! Nice shop too🤘🤘🤘
Thanks for watching!
Damn and i just bought the empress stereo buffer. Ill just have to build another pedal board!
I’m not mad at that!!!
Ty for everything. You're a huge help.
You're welcome!
Was just about to make a junction box for 4 cable. Now looking for the 9v
All the links for materials are there
Ugh! I wish I had this a few months ago! I bought a Humdinger (which actually works really well) to use in a stereo setup, but the stereo diagram you have looks to be a more sophisticated way of doing this - I am just going into my mono pedals, into the humdinger, and then out into my 2 stereo pedals out to the amps... I think I may not have thought this through... guess I may need to sell the Humdinger and start over... Great video by the way :-)
I think the Humdinger only does split mono - not stereo. The way I showed is the proper way to do a stereo set up with the right buffering on input and output. I think the Humdinger is one buffer only with a split output.
These videos are gold. Thanks Mason. Q: Are there any cheaper alternatives to the CreationAudioLabs buffers for DIY projects?
Exactly what i needed
Amazing!!!!
I didn't even know buffers were a thing until discovering your channel, thanks for all the tips. I am making my own buffer using your parts/diagrams and I'm a little confused on what you're doing with the green wire that is connected to the guitar input jack. Are you looping it through/around the bottom hole (in the diagram) and then soldering it to the middle/second loop-pole thing?
It's connected to two lugs on the input jack so you can short out the input when it's unplugged.
@@VertexEffectsInc Thanks for the replies! Another person in the comments was able to help me understand a bit better - short jumper cable to connect both connections on the jack. I was thinking you were doing it with one continuous wire and couldn't figure it out lol. Thanks uncle Mason for all the great content - you're changing lives :)
Great stuff, thanks for being such an amazing resource! I've finally assembled all the components for my interface. I'm actually doing FIVE jacks on each side of a slightly bigger enclosure (1590N1) to incorporate my Komet Ambikab (2 for basic gtr/amp dry path, 3 for the SA Collider stereo wet effects into the Komet). Quick question: does it matter which side of the Neutrik jack to solder the wire to?
If it’s a switched Jack like I recommend, yes it will matter
Killer video brother!
🙏🙏🙏
Outstanding video! Thank you for sharing this with us!
Our pleasure!
2 Questions. 1) Every diagram shows an amp. Is there a use case for this with a Strymon Iridium to PA? 2) Starting with the audition pedal, can I add 2 stomp switches, 1 to bypass dirty effects and 1 to bypass wet effects with my Iridium in the audition loop as an always on? Effectively turning a few pedals on/off with one stomp switch. I’ve never opened a pedal before except to change a battery so I’m probably out in left field.
Chad, if you're going out of the Iridium the buffers won't hurt on the output, but you could remove those and just make those jacks pass-throughs instead of active buffered outputs. The input buffer is still critical however. You could attach the audition loop to a footswitch, but the way it's wired here is that it only brings in pedals into the signal path when the pedals are plugged in on the guitar/amp side of the board, and when you unplug it, it normalizes and just leaves the signal in series as though the audition pedal were never there. There are a million ways you could customize this, but I'm showing the most practical and common applications.
@@VertexEffectsInc I built the audition pedal as shown and it's sounds great. Can't wait to put a SSS on my board.
love the choice of wearing an apron! very "craftsman" style
My wife just got it for me so I felt I had to wear it at least once. It’s actually way easier - I don’t lose my pens and small tools now
@@VertexEffectsInc Well it suits you well. You are crafting amazing board setups!
🥰🥰🥰
The CAL Buffer does introduce a little noise in the signal chain, and I only put one up front, but works really well.
Something else is wrong if you’re getting noise - not the buffer.
@@VertexEffectsInc What could it be? Only hear it when the buffer is powered on. I’ve been trying to figure it out. Its a very slight noise, like preamp noise, VERY low, but it’s there. Isn’t that normal?
@@VertexEffectsInc I figured it out, as soon as I stuck the CAL buffer on it’s own isolated power supply noise went away. I was daisy-chaining the buffer and my SP Comp, first two pedals in chain. I figured I could chain them and be fine, but not this time.
@@adam614ce typically it's OK daisy chaining with other analog pedals, but it's always best to test on a case by case basis.
@@VertexEffectsInc Thanks Rig Doctor!
Great DIY vid....
🙏🙏🙏
Have you done a video on making the buffer with added uses…tuner, wet dry wet, etc?
Yes, they're all in the diagrams listed here.
@mason sorry for the long comment. I emailed you and your assistants told me to try you here 🙂
You hit on a point I’ve always had in the back of my mind. Tone suck and line impedance. I really started to think about my setup and how I might be able to benefit from stabilizing the input and output of my pedal board. Anyways, I wanted to get your opinion on my signal flow.
I think I want to switch out my old TU-2 for a TC Polytune 3. That should handle the input impedance part. Use a TC Bonafide Buffer at the end of the board before going into the amp.
Or maybe I can build a mono dual buffer like you have on one of your RUclips Videos.
Note, my “normal” rig I use is a wet/dry/wet stereo rig. Sometimes depending on the band I’m playing in and stage size I might just run a mono rig. The pedal board is the same tho.
I built my rig years ago and it’s been “evolving” ever since. In 2006 I had my 5150 head modded by Jerry at FJA Mods. Anyways around that time I really wanted to try and do a w/d/w rig similar to EVH. Long story short, I messed around with it a bunch, figured out a bunch of stuff, and landed on what I’m running “basically” all these years later.
My amp has always been fairly noisy. (as most high gain 5150s are known for) Anyways, I run this basic pedal board in front of the amp. Through a bunch of trial and error, I ended up with the pedal layout and signal flow. Over the years, my wah pedal has always caused a bunch of noise when “on”. I’ve used several different wah pedals over the years. I like my Dunop wah and gone back to it. I know that “typically” you want the wah in front of everything in the signal. I didn’t really see a difference in tone/noise and ended up put in after my TU-2.
Can you give me any advice and or suggestions on what I can do to get my wah to quiet down and potentially clean up my tone signal going into my amp?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Looking forward to talking to you.
Below is the basic signal flow. I’ve also attached a topology.
Signal flow
Guitar-Tuner TU-2-Whammy Pedal-Digital Delay DD-5-Dunlop Wah-EVH Phase 90-EVH Flanger-to Rig
Rig signal flow.
5150 Head High Gain input-speaker out-Hot Plate attenuator-Line out-split in TC Electronics G Force inputs-balanced outs-SM26 (port 3 and 4)-mixed output into L/R RT2/50 slave amp-L and R cabinets
- speaker out dry into 1960 4x12 cab - split in to Rane SM26 line mixer (input 1)
I just finished my 4CM buffer .. sounds great! But man, it’s really hard to solder the power wires on top of each other in the buffer pcb 😂
Needless to say, i’m don’t have much experience soldering. It was a fun project though. Thank you ;)
Nice work!
Would you post a picture some place of how you soldered the green wire from the first buffer to the guitar jack? The diagram/replies here are unclear how you even do that.
By the way, you’re fucking awesome!!!!! really appreciate your channel and website.
🙏🙏🙏
Hello Mr, Rig Doctor, awesome video. I had mentioned in a video a long time ago how to modify the truetone CS7 to have an extra ice cable. I would really appreciate that! and Thanks!
Hey sorry, AC power mods are a NO GO. Too much liability if someone does something silly and hurts themselves.
@@VertexEffectsInc Understood, I figured but thanks anyway.
@@davidmbas 🥰🥰🥰
I have just build this DIY Buffer Interface with the four cable method and I love it! Thank you for the fantastic video! That was something I was looking for for a long time.
I would love to add a green status LED to the buffer interface. But since I am new to this, I wanted to ask if you could tell me what parts I need and how I can add it to the circuit?
You could add one off of the DC jack. There are plenty of tutorials on adding LED's to your pedals on RUclips, you can bypass the part about the jack since it's always on with the buffer and the LED isn't an on/off status light with the footswitch.
I've been using my DIY buffer interface for a year now and I love it. I varied the design a little to include 5 input/outputs so that I can run my SA Collider in stereo into a Komet Ambikab for a wet/dry split. One suggestion... would you be open to sharing the volume pedal schematic similar to what you have with your boost pedal? I don't have the pedalboard real estate for the boost, but it would be awesome and extremely useful to be able to apply the same volume pedal concept directly to the junction box and keep the same footprint. Just a thought. Thank you for all the great rig resources!
Glad it worked out, it's not a volume pedal schematic you're asking for, you're asking for our boost schematic.
You could buy the vertex boost and buy a tall enclosure box and rehouse the boost & your junction box into the new enclosure....to keep the same footprint. You could also just mount the boost on top of the junction box if you have a flatboard. If you have a pedaltrain or something similar you could also mount the boost under your pedalboard. Just some thoughts...
I think now all I need shown is how to wire a ground lift and a phase switch
Originally this was my plan, however I could never settle on a transformer that I thought didn’t impact the sound adversely. Even among the ones used most commonly for isolation, are poor in many conditions, in particular when there’s a lot of signal going through it, it will often distort in the low end, where servos or a Zobel network can stabilize it to the point where it’s workable. This is why in the notes I suggest a specific splitter with isolation for this application.
Man...every time I watch one of your videos I get more and more tempted to step away from Fractal. Great content, and great tutorial!!!
I’m so glad you dig it! Use the fractal for wet!!!!
Fractal only offers convenience and in a stretch, consistency. It’s never about better tone with fractal, at least for me
Jeff, Peter and Martin will be your "Tone Sponsors" as you withdrawal from the AxeFX ;)
For that money I’d rather buy a few synergy modules.
@@4602experience they don't do any wet processing however.
Really clear and wonderfully explained Mason! Just one question for me personally (and my rig) could you add a tuner out to 4 cable method in a way?
Sure just get a bigger box, the 1590BBBK would work
ive been waiting for this since the your first junction box video! Thank you so much mason! i have a question about the input buffer/tuner out. could i switch the buffer on that's already in my TC Electronic Hypergravity and have that feed into a splitter for a tuner out the way that you have it split in the enclosure?
I would recommend doing the splitting off of the buffer directly to eliminate any loading from the parallel split.
I was hoping you talked a bit about the transformer seen in the thumbnail. I guess that's an add-on for fuzzes to sound good when working with buffers. Can you do a video about that?
We may do a video on that as well showing how to make your own ISO box. We also have our own buffers now: www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/VBuffInt--vertex-effects-pedalboard-buffer-interface
Excellent video-- I can't wait to build mine! If I power this with my board's supply (in this case, 9V / 100mA), what is the current draw per buffer? Will 100mA suffice?
15mA per buffer is the draw, so even in the tri buffer examples it's 45mA max.
Hello Mason, I've been watching your videos about Buffers, in another one you were saying that the output impedance (going from the pedalboard to the amp) should be around 100ohms. With this it would be around 1MOhm right? Is that a problem?
Output impedance at 100 ohms (or around that as a general rule - some exceptions) and the input impedance at 1M. Just like this buffer in the video!
@@VertexEffectsInc oh okay, I thought both buffered jack were at 1M impedance (that's what you say to pick in the document?)
These are so great. Would it be possible to add a Stereo / Mono Sum Switch to the Stereo out and what would use for that? Thanks for such great content.
It’s possible I just do not recommend doing it - it’s a huge compromise and not what most people think it is. You are better off making presets to your stereo pedals that are hard panned L for mono over doing a summation of the L and R. Polarity and internal mixes of each effect create a wildcard that’s not predictable and even when summed can still have negative consequences. Again, you’re better off going out of the left output only of your last stereo effect and setting all of your stereo pedals to hard panned left.
Ok so I’m looking at the diagrams to see which one is right for me, so my setup is currently Guitar-Polytune3-Bloom Comp-Tumnus Deluxe-SSS-Dsm/humboldt Simplifier (input)-Simplifier (Send)- Julianna (In mono)(out Stereo)- (Stereo in/out) Mako D1 Delay-Specular Tempus (stereo In/out)-Simplifier (Return left and right)- Simplifier Left & Right Xlr to front of house, Simplifier (1/4” Thru/dry signal) to Vox Ac15. So which diagram is right for me? Just ordered all the parts too :)
He will just need the input Buffer, and the output buffer on the side that goes to the amplifier. The stuff that goes into the simplifier I believe is all balanced, so you shouldn’t need an output there.
Vertex Effects Awesome! so I just need to make the one you made in the video!!!
@@zachvargas122588 easy!
good video! waiting for the klon build! lol!!
I’m sure those already exist
@@VertexEffectsInc they do...but you're presentation of this kind of material is superior to what i've seen. (don't go getting a big head about it but....it's true.)
Perhaps, but for now I’m sticking with stuff that’s not talked about much on RUclips in terms of tutorials
Your videos have been an amazing resource! THANK YOU! Question, what temp do you set your soldering iron for basic soldering? I am ordering the Soldering Iron you use, and I do not want to fry any parts by getting it too hot. Cheers
It depends on the solder tips, but typically I'm around 500-600 degrees F. Any more will having you going through tips more often than needed with no benefit.
Thank you for your videos! I’m a beginner just getting into Pedals and you’ve help me tremendously! I have a question on building the 4 Cable Method.
I’m looking at running my Volume pedal after Boost/EQ (following your Signal Path Video). If I have Wah/fuzz/treble boost going into the buffer along with running Chorus and Trem through an effects loop do I need to run 2 buffers or can I simply add another buffer to the 4 cable box and solder it to the buffer output? The new buffer would be the input for the volume pedal.
Don’t know if this makes sense. Your help is truly appreciated!
Ideally you'll have three buffers, one after your impedance sensitive pedals like what and fuzz, one going into the front of the amp, and one on the return of the effects loop. This should be how it's shown here minus the input buffer needing to come later in the chain.
Sent this video to a friend, who is much better with soldering, than i am! He's gonna help me build this. Thanks for all the clear instruction!
Wondering, though, what you meant, when speaking of the power range of the Buffer, and you said "it will give it more headroom". What is headroom, with regard to buffers?
it won't distort with a lot of signal running into it. For 99% of cases, 9V is fine however.
Hey Vertex, as always a great video! Why would you want an isolated nylon jack opposed to a metal jack on the creative pcb jack? I would think the metal would be a better seal for noise.
Why would it be better for noise? Ideally you want to keep things isolated as much as possible since we can't always know how it's going to be used in the field to avoid possible ground loops not designing this for someone's system that's in our possession. The input is grounded to the case - which is standard the rest is floating.
@@VertexEffectsInc was just thinking it would be a better cage for em not to get in....probably overkill as even my shielded strat still sounds the same 😂
Hi doc. just want to know where should the buffer pedal be place on the chain? or should i use two buffer in first chain and last? 🤔🤔🤔
In most cases, the input and the output, there are some exceptions for impedance sensitive pedals. You can watch tomorrow and see exactly how to do it and I also have the diagrams live now if you want to check those out: vertexeffects.com/diy-buffer
So I've watched a bunch of your videos...Thank you! There's tons of great info here. I'm a big fan of building my own pedals, cables, etc., so your Rig Doctor videos are right up my alley. However, I'm a bassist---don't hate me, please!---and I've got a few questions.
1) First, is there going to be any difference in buffering needs/requirements between a guitar and bass? Are those Creative buffer PCBs suitable for use with a bass?
2) Input buffers for instruments with active electronics: yea or nay? Complicating the issue is the fact that not only do I have my (active) MusicMan StingRay5 as my main bass, I've also got a (passive) G&L LB-100 Tribute, and an (active) 3/4-scale upright bass that I occasionally use. I know the G&L would probably benefit from use of an input buffer on the board, but my understanding is that powered---active---electronics/preamps in instrument came around specifically to negate signal losses inherent to longer cable runs...So would running an input buffer there be a waste? Would it cause me any harm to run one in line with an active bass? Adding an unbuffered input could be an option as well, but again...Is it worth the trouble?
3) Now we get to go the opposite direction: output buffers. When playing live, most of the time I just run either straight from my bass into the mixer, or through my pedalboard into the mixer, but occasionally I feel less lazy or play somewhere that I know doesn't have good monitoring, so I drag my cab/amp with me. I'm guessing an output buffer would be a good idea for the times I drag my cab/amp with me, but am I going to be causing myself any grief by using an output buffer in front of a mixer?
I know that ended up being a lot of questions, so thank you in advance for any info/direction you can give me.
1) you might want a variable input impedance depends on your bass amp. Bass amps are more variable than guitar amps are. Guitar amps are almost always 1M, where bass can range from 500K to 10M. The buffer however if fine for either instrument you just want a way to set your input impedance.
2) Active electronics don't need an input buffer because the preamp on board is the input buffer, however, having a buffer first won't hurt this and will only help when you switch to a passive instrument. A high quality buffer won't add any noise.
3) If you're into a DI at the pedalboard side, then the output buffer is less critical, but again won't hurt anything at the times you have a long cable run (unbalanced) to your mixing board or interface or if you connect to an amplifier.
@@VertexEffectsInc, thank you again. I guess I need to look up what my amp lists for input impedance and go from there.
No DI box on my bass pedalboard, although I probably should go that route down the road. Suggestions on good bass DIs? :D
@@VertexEffectsInc, I just checked and my GK has 1M imput impedance. I suppose I could just leave it at that and call it good for experimentation. Thank you.
Hello Mason. I am convinced buffers are important. But what about for bass, would you recommend them in a bass signal path as well
Check out our bass signal paths video...all is explained :)
Can you expand your audition loop to my house and bring the DGT ???? great video ..
😂😂😂
I’m not sure if i am capable of making this, but I desperately need a stereo buffer like this. Guess ill have to give it a go
Once the drilling is done, it's all downhill from there!
@@VertexEffectsInc appreciate all your tips, helping me wrap my head around it all! Would be so amazing if you guys started producing these guys! Until then, this is a great new skill to learn i suppose
@@joshbrown4506 We are, they'll be out in few months.
Wow thank you guys! I will be your first customer
Awesome, Thank you. How would these compare to a Pete Cornish buffer though?
Pete Cornish uses a BJT Buffer, basically half of it is like a Boss Buffer. I think it’s superior to those, but I don’t think it’s superior to something that has a more modern approach and updates based on what’s available now. I don’t find his buffers to be neutral at all, that doesn’t mean they don’t sound good, that just means that it changes the sound of your guitar and amplifier fundamentally. Also, his buffer is only a single output buffered typically put on the input of a system, there is no output buffering, or any sort of interfacing as you see here. I would put this Creation Audio Labs up against it any day, and it would come out to be more neutral by a long shot if that’s the goal.
@@VertexEffectsInc Thanks for the in depth analysis, I appreciate you taking the time to explain the difference.
A lot of people like it - I just don’t think these people have a good transparent reference point they’re comparing to.
Hey Uncle Mason, is there a way to put a Power-Con conector in the interface? Thanks for all the videos!
You would have to get a 1590BB if you wanted it to sit upright, otherwise it will only be mounted from the side, same as any D-punch out connector. You may only be able to fit 2-3 jacks in addition to this, they're so large. You could also have a noise issue potentially with the AC being so close to the audio signal, but not always, just to keep in mind.
Great video man. :)
I hope it was helpful
Thank you very much!
Is it possible tu put a volume knob to control the out signal to a split out?
I mean, I would split out in A and B.
The A is directly connected and the B should have an output volume control.
Is it possible?
Luca, it's possible, just not an option I show here.
Awesome video Mason! Right up my ally. Would I make one with a lower input impedance if you’re putting it after a few pedals in your chain? Or still 1M.
1M is still fine.
@@VertexEffectsInc Thanks! Is it really complicated to make a box that can do both the 4 cable method AND wet/dry depending on what situation you find yourself in?
@@JazzRockswithAdam look at the diagram, I show how to do this.
@@VertexEffectsInc Oh cool, I’ll look more closer next time! 😒
@@JazzRockswithAdam the Wet/Dry and 4CM is the same interface wiring diagram. I also put an option there so you can run it all in front of the amplifier if you need.
Very helpful video and something I am interested in building myself. I would like your thoughts on the specific buffer and usage for my scenario. My pedalboard starts with a Radial Mix Blender to receive input and independently adjust volume for two different guitars; typically an acoustic and an electric. The output of my pedalboard goes to my amp which is mic'd in an isolation cabinet. Obviously, I can easily send the output back to a return jack of a buffer. My dilemma is on the input side. I could put the buffer after the Mix Blender but I know that buffers really should be the first in the chain. Any thoughts?
Is your mixer passive? It might already be a buffer. Otherwise, I'd put it after the mixer if it has two different inputs.
So glad I found this! Based on this, I want to build an interface with a loop for my fuzz and treble boost before the buffers. Should my pre-buffer loop simply involve two extra Neutrik NRJ6HF jacks for send and return, and then I'd wire the signal to go to the first buffer after that?
Just put the audition loop up front snd out the inout buffer on the output following the audition loop. Guitar in, send to impedance sensitive pedals return, output to pedals (input buffer)….
@@VertexEffectsInc Thank you! I notice that your diagram for the audition loop shows the send and return wired together with the green and brown wires. Is that necessary in my case too, or is that just so your signal still gets through even when there are no cables plugged into those jacks?
@@09andyleach wire it as shown
Thanks!
Thank you!
You’re welcome Mason & Co. You are a rig God on my eyes! LOL
Great video. One question. All buffers are set to 1meg. Shouldn’t the output (running to amp) be 100ohms? The BOM says 3x 1meg. I want to try your recommendation of 1meg input and 100ohm output. Thanks for creating all this info. Very helpful. 👍
The input impedance is 1M on all the buffers, the output impedance is 100 ohms. Not sure where you're getting 1M output impedance from???
I think what he means is he jack doesn’t seem to state the output impedance on the source website. I was actually wondering the same thing since I didn’t see it listed and was considering building vs buying
Yeah I was wondering the same. Ai1 Redeemer can be purchased with 10K Ohm as well, shout I use that instead of 1M for the output jacks ?
Thanks, you are the best,Cheers
heck yea! Thank you much! Let us know if you have questions!
Awesome! Thanks for the video!
By the way, if I'm using a iridium or a HX stomp and want to add the buffer, should I connect the buffer after or before the iridium or HX stomp?
You need an input buffer (first), and an output buffer (last). The output buffer with these systems may not be as critical if it's going direct or balanced out - but it wont' hurt anything and when you use it into an amp, if that happens, you won't have any loss.
@@VertexEffectsInc great! Thanks!
@@salemmartinez8738 sure thing!
Great video! This may be a dumb question, but if I wanted to add phase inversion and ground lift switches to the output, would it just be a matter of wiring in a couple more components, or would it make the whole project way more complex?
You would need to add an isolation transformer.
Is this the same as the one you used in John Mayer inspired pedalboard?
No, not even close, these are full blow buffered interfaces with mono, stereo, wet/dry, 4CM, etc. options. You can see all the diagrams here: vertexeffects.com/diy-buffer
Great Content as always! Silly question, do you have a diagram for a 4-cable-method buffer also with Tuner-Out?
I don’t because it can’t fit in this box, you could use the same method for the tuner out as in the other diagrams and just add that to the four cable method diagram using a Hammond 1590BB size enclosure
@@VertexEffectsInc Ah makes sense, thank you! I am currently using the Mesa Boggie High Wire dual buffer which sounds great. Of course trying to slim down the board/cram more things into an enclosure if it still delivers. The only thing the four-cable / tuner buffer would be missing is a boost :)
You could add that with a resistor switching on the output buffer and have it all in a 1590bb box
Amazing! Been wanting to do that for a while! Any chance of a DIY video on how to make a buffered splitter (or a stereo buffer) with isolated outputs (+phase 180°) ? I have an input buffer in my switcher but not on the output, and running stereo with no isolated output which isn't great (one amp gets no ground from the wall at the moment). - By the way, have you ever tried the Providence PEC-2 Switcher? I don't hear much about it in the anglo-sphere of gear and would be curious. It's got a providence vitaliser as an input buffer (does that buffer get the doc seal of approval by the way? I can't find the specs for it but it seems to have a good reputation). Thanks for the great work Mason!!! :)
Theo, see the notes on all the diagrams for splitter and stereo rigs regarding galvanic isolation. All of them are huge compromises - and not designed for being inside the interface - they change the tone and add distortion when hit with a lot of signal. Most of the good ones are all input transformers and designed to be at the amp, not on a pedalboard. If you’re careful about keeping your amps on the same ground you can a sound a lot of the issues and if you have a reverse polarity speaker cable you could solve the phase issue with the amp. Or you can get the Lehle P Split which is the iso transformer I recommend.
@@VertexEffectsInc Thank you so much for all of that precious information, it really does help a lot :)
make a delay pedal pls
Hahahha, ok
Nice! Would adding a mute switch to the version with the tuner out be a good idea?
You could add a mute if you wanted to...these diagrams are here for you to use as you wish. Feel free to customize them however you'd like.
Quick Q: not sure if you covered this. Maybe I missed it. If I don’t apply power to the buffer, does signal still go through? If so, is it what you would consider a true bypass?
There is typically no true bypass on a buffered when a pedal is powered off.
I'd love to see how to build the buffer circuit itself. Those jacks from CAL cost nearly as much as the Bonafide buffers.
You're paying for a USA made product, and to make a PCB or buy the parts to do it will be expensive in a one-off situation like this.
Hi doc'
Very pro and educational, thanks a lot.
If i wanna use the DIY stereo box to send to 2 amps, is it enough to ground the case as you showed it through the screws or do I also need a isolated transformer on one of the outputs ?
You'll likely want an isolation transformer. However most of the cheaper ones aren't great for this application and the expensive ones are all input transformers and should be located on the amp side, not the pedalboard side. I suggest getting a Lehle P Split and putting it as close to the amp input as possible with as short a cable possible from the output of it if you want to do a stereo rig.
So great, thank you
Glad you liked it!
If you have any idea where to source good DIY buffers in the UK I would love to hear them!
@@03gardner Will CAL not ship?
@@VertexEffectsInc sadly not! From their website 'Creation Audio Labs, Inc.
Cannot ship to: Canada, China, Japan, Korea, Republic of, Russian Federation, United Kingdom'
@@03gardner Have you looked at using a freight forwarder? Often that can be done very cheaply and allows you to import easily. Many people do this with our pedals through our website.