Any RUclipsr can show how to remove broken studs/bolts when nothing goes wrong. and they have a Mill and Carbide Tools as backups. Only Mustie cam show you everything that does go wrong, yet still end up with a working fix with what you have in the home shop. Way to go!
There's hope for you. Many people have the attention span of a gnat, 5 minutes or less, for a "boring" informational video --- but they can sit through a 2 hour movie as long as the room is dark and there's tons of CGI explosions, extreme drama and other excitements that makes up the bulk of established mindless entertainment.
I wanted to say thank you, yesterday I replaced the wheel bearing in my 2015 E-Golf that was "growling", I would have never had the confidence to have attempted the repair myself without watching your videos over the years. You have also taught me a ton about Volkswagens and I am restoring my 68 vw double cab right now, as well as my 79 westy. Metal work and all. Thanks Darren I have learned so much from you.
If you're absent from a new bearing source (brick and mortar store, Scamazon, etc), repacking the old bearing can make it serve for another 100 extra miles but it depends on its condition. That might serve you well in a future Mad Max scenario.
@@Hjerte_Verke I just pulled a bearing apart. Took the seal cover off and cleaned it and repacked it on one of my tools. Worked perfectly. there was really no pitting and it was not completely seized. Cleaned the old grease and dirt out, put some new grease in there and pushed the seal cover back on. Spins Like new.
I did 13 years as an aircraft machinist in the Air Force. Our primary job was to remove stuck or damaged hardware and repair damaged threads. Sometimes, the head would just pop off or the part twisted or moved, so the bolt broke. One time, I used the eraser on a #2 pencil to spin the broken bolt out. Once. You had to find how the bolt got broken, was it found gone, did it break trying to get it out, or did it break going in? The last 2 you might as well forget the extractor and grab the drills. A lot of our hardware were exotic metals that hardened when they broke. If you center punched them it made them harder. For the 1/4 inch and under we used carbide rotary files and just carved them out. If you don't want to break a drill off you REALLY DON'T want to break an extractor. You REALLY, REALLY DON'T want to break carbide. The manifold bolts in the heads of my truck were so hard a drill would not even mark them. It was a long slow slog taking those bolts out. Yes the heads were still on the engine in the truck. It SUCKED! A lot of the time we were the end user for a part. If we couldn't repair the threads or remove the bolt, the part by regulation had to be sent back to the manufacturer or our depot. Either way, the part came off our inventory and had to be replaced. We were really insulted if that happened. That was your taxpayers money we couldn't save. Aircraft parts, especially weapons and delivery systems were not allowed repairs of any kind. Some parts were classified and you got to have CLOSE scrutiny doing your work. Try getting a stuck screw out with three security police holding weapons at ready. These guys were more nervous than I was! They weren't helping things. I told them to back off just a tiny bit.... LOL! Aircraft parts, even the bolts are expensive. We took our job seriously and tried our best not to waste your money. Out in the real world I used to TIG weld balls of metal to the end of broken taps. MIG welding didn't transfer the heat well and they just broke off. It's not for the novice or inexperienced. You can make things worse, fast. Even with all my experience things still kicked my ass. Like the exhaust bolts. There are many other specialized ways to remove these disasters but it requires equipment you normally don't have at home. Musty, you did fine. I have broken many taps and easy outs in my 47 year career. The big thing is you can only call yourself to get it out. There isn't anyone going to come to your rescue. Except me. I'm too expensive and much too old anymore. My number is unlisted......LOL! Cheers Terry
What a great comment my friend. Without spilling the beans. Can you generically talk about what type of part or hardware would require a guard standing by while you work on it? I'm in the security world and really can't think of what hard metal part would be so sensitive. Electronics/computer related things. Yes. But not something requiring a machinist. Cheers
@@giggiddy replacing solid inserts in a nuclear guidance system. They brought it into the shop under heavy security. The shop was outside of the weapons storage area.😎👍
Always the teacher to bring us along. One thing I could recommend with broken studs is left hand drill bits. After you center punch the broken stud, the left hand bit (with your drill on reverse) cuts the stud counterclockwise. The vibration and heat going counterclockwise urges the stud to back out. The bits are a little pricey but I think they're worth it.
If they ever bring back shop class in schools...this is the video to teach from...! For the beginner and for the seasoned ...pro..it's a great video to watch...
Why would they bring back shop classes to individual schools when they have county wide or multi county vocational schools where each school district sends students interested in a trade to be taught by real trades people. They have carpentry,plumbing, masonry, electrical, small engine repair. Auto repair and body repair, metal/ welding .animal care/Pre veterinary, office management,computer , cosmetology and pretty much training for nearly every career that are taught by actual professions from those careers. These classes are for about three hours a day every day. I took carpentry but begin with teaching you basic household electrical,plumbing, masonry. Guys that were in their 2nd and 3rd year of masonry built beautiful fireplaces (reusable mortar). Auto shop have real cars to work on and do body work on. In carpentry class we did everything from making furniture , laminate,framing structures. Every wood project we started with rough sawn wood and had to mill it to what we needed. We had actual large project instead of the usual little project for Mom we did in shop class in jr highschool. Individual school now have tech class where they do things that are more tech related. My former highschool has a metal ship and an auto class but that's for kids with rich daddies who bought them cars and must have high grades who will never be a mechanic. And except for three states , every school by law has to do the Pledge each day. The three other states leave it up to the district. The Pledge is another one of those misconceptions that many people think they don't do in school anymore
Won't ever happen in mainstream public high schools unless you're in a super rural area. TPTB want you as dumb as possible; makes you easier to control.
@MarkDeaton-cx4ke Very true, me too. Metal shop, machine shop, auto shop, wood shop, electrical shop, drafting, and vocational auto shop in my senior year taught me a lot also. I was lucky enough to go to a school that offered it all, but it was the 60's and things where cheaper then.
I'm a retired shop teacher. Absolutely we need for students to take shop classes. If we aren't careful we'll have a generation that can't pour water out of a boot with directions on the heel!
I hate those easi-out extractors - breaking one of those off in the hole is much worse than breaking a tap - easi-outs are much more solid than a tap, thus so much harder to break out of the hole. Years of experience pretty much led me to how you do it, drill it out. Knowing how to work the drill bit to recentre the hole is something that comes with practice. Great to see people like yourself passing knowledge like this along.
If the bolt is going to be easy to get out, use an Easy Out, maybe, if not, don't go near the bloody things. Talking to an engineer one time he said he never uses easy out, refused to have them in his shop. He ground the end of an allen key dead flat and drove that into a hole he drilled in the bolt. He reckoned it worked best of all. Never had reason to try it myself but might be worth a try for.
@@brucecliffe6213 "Talking to an engineer one time he said he never uses easy out" Well if one person you talked to said he didn't like them, that must surely make the entire product a waste of time, right :-) " He ground the end of an allen key dead flat and drove that into a hole he drilled in the bolt." So... he made his own version of the easy-out? I prefer to listen to people who can tell me _why_ they don't use a product, not just that it sucks. More often than not its comes down to that they have their own preferred method that they have been using for years (with varying rates success) and they tried the easy-out once and it didn't work immediately so they trashed it and went back to their old method. Every product is designed for a particular application and if you use the wrong method: that's a you problem, not a problem with the tool. The easy out stuff is created for the average joe and the problems then encounter. The average joe is not going to fight a bolt that has broken 1 inch deep in a hole and has been locktited into that hole 45 years ago and rusted over inside a piece of cast iron.
Mustie I've enjoyed watching most of your videos, and learnt a few things, but I must say this one was painful for me. I used to be a fitter on a sand mining plant where a lot of Caterpillar D7 and D8 Dozers were used, among a lot of other stuff like Caterpillar 988 and big pumps etc. This was a very harsh environment for machinery, being constantly in and out of salt water. I very often had to remove broken studs in the blade attachments, mostly 5/8 and 3/4 inch. previously we used to blow them out with a cutting nozzle on the Oxy, but I found the best method was to weld a piece of bar, at near right angles to the axis of the stud, and when completely cooled, wind it out with that, or if constricted for room I'd cut an angle on the end of a big bolt and weld that onto the broken stud. It's important to completely cool what I could get at with a very wet rag as quick as possible so that it shrinks ever so slightly and it would almost always release. I feel that if you'd heated the parent part, and quickly cooled the stud you'd have had much more success. It's the temperature difference that releases the bond, and you were doing that the opposite way. I have removed hundreds of broken studs in my working career, and restored a lot of old very neglected and rusted up machinery, mainly by heating and cooling, heating and cooling. Now 80, but still enjoy preety much what you do except I don't film it. I've so far never had one beat me. Keep up your interesting passion Sir.
1pcfred... You missed the ppint that you quench the stud, NOT the cast. That's the point. Heat the area outside the stud (expand) and cool the stud (contract). And, he didn't get it near hot enough. The cast should get to glowing red with oxy acetylene. This commentor is spot on. Please people, realize that as experienced and smart as Darren is, you can be sure there are many people more experienced and smarter in various areas that he is. RUclips does not make one the top genius. Please leave the old Television star worship behind!!!
@@videodistro and just how are you going to keep the water off the cast? I've hit cast iron with oxy acetylene flame. It's not so easy to get cast iron to glow with a flame. Cast iron doesn't heat up like steel does.
@@peterbarnes8737 I don't quench. I know lots do it but lots do lots of stupid crap. What works for me is glowing the hardware up until it is incandescent then while it's still sparking up I hit it hard with an impact gun. I call it, strike while the iron's hot. That works because it burns the rust out and softens the metal up enough the parts can smear past each other. Because those threads are all pitted and chowdered. Cooled off they're just not going to slide. That ship has sailed. You have to deal with the new normal.
I thoroughly enjoy watching "someone else" struggle with a broken bolt/stud repair, especially with a mechanic master. I would only add that I've acquired a set of spring loaded self centering drill bits that carpenters use to drill out door hinges. I believe I found a set at McMaster Carr years ago and they work great for situations such as drilling out these broken bolts/studs. Just my 2 cents now.
Alot of us are rushing when met with this situation so can end up with the problem escalating so it's good that you show this stuff to us impatient people.
It recently cost my friend a whole new engine in his car. He broke some bolts, tried everything and just made it worse boogering it up. He admits he rushed it and shouldn't have. Besides the cost of a new motor and installation, he spent over $200 dollars on various drill bits and easy-outs and taps and stuff. Pretty expensive lesson about taking your time on stuff like this and thinking it all out carefully.
I've had really good luck drilling down into the center of the stud or bolt then welding a nut on It gives the weld more area to grab on to Appreciate the great videos 👍
Life is Good. Going to school here and having the greatest teacher Mustie1. I really enjoy this different type of video. I like them alll. What a GREAT channel Mustie1 thanks
I was about 16 or so when I watched my father struggle with a broken bolt in cast iron. I was taking high school FFA shop classes and knew just enough to be dangerous. Dad got the bolt drilled out nice and straight and was tapping .... SNAP! Well I learned some new words that day that I can't repeat here. A few words silently went through my mind at the same time but, not nearly as colorful as my Dad's. I knew that the tap was made out of something even Superman would struggle with and I had no clue what to do. Dad, didn't know either, first he tried to jiggle it out..Not happening, then he found to the smallest welding rod he had (might have been a coat hanger) and plugged it into the old Forney stick welder with about 200 amperage selection holes in the front of it. (most of the holes were blocked up by mud daubers) One touch and the whole tap shrunk! the edges melted off and he could pull it out with a needle nose pliers. I'm 60 years old and I still miss my Dad.
Very good video showing the frustration and determination of broken studs and bolts. I was surprised you didn't use left hand rotation drill bits. I got a set of them about 30 years ago and they have been miracle workers. True the studs are much more difficult than most bolts. Almost all of my broken bolts and studs weren't work bench style. The only other thing I can comment on is the frustration when you use the spray bottle and it has lost it's prime. I would have given up on it or searched for the reason long ago. Keep on teaching us even at almost 80 I'm still wrenching as much as I can.
I liked the video. Great information for people new to wrenching. Sometimes an air hammer will shock a stud loose. Mustie has shown splitting a rusted manifold nut with a chisel in VW videos. Done right, it looks like a magic trick.
Thanks Mustie, another entertaining master class. 😂 FYI @ 40:57 the tap on the right is a 'Spiral Point' tap sometimes referred to as a gun tap. It pushes the waste forward so doesn't muck up your nicely cut threads. Because of this, it should really only be used in a through hole. Another great tap often used in machining is the 'Spiral Flute' tap. It sorta works like a twist drill pulling the waste up as it rotates, so it doesn't need backing off like a normal tap.
Many years ago, I was a machinist in the Air Force. Besides the usual machine shop duties, I probably removed thousands of broken fasteners from aircraft. Some were quite challenging. I used to hate coming into work on a Monday morning in nicely pressed fatigues and handed a job to remove broken studs inside the cowling of a C-54. So much for a clean uniform!
Thanks Mustie, great demonstration of the different thoughts and ways to accomplish the task. Also good to hear someone else explain that extractors have a very limited use in pulling a busted stud/bolt, can't tell you how many I busted thinking I was doing something wrong.
Thanks for the misery (memories). At 15 (60 yrs ago) I managed to break off a valve cover bolt in a 2.4l I-6 Ford. I learned quickly that I didn't know as much as I thought I did. Thanks to you I'm still learning. Narragansett Bay
A tip I learned is that you can almost always sharpen your drill bits to be better than what they are. It took me a while to wrap my head around how to grind them by hand on a bench grinder, but the end result dug in better, and got me the results I needed.
I once spent several days heating/spraying Volvo exhaust manifold studs as they are prone to snapping -100% success. I worked them slowly each day spraying and putting through a number of heat cycles until I started to get movement. I was not in the mood to drill. Sometimes slow and steady with some patience gets it.
I once spend several minutes removing the nuts on the exhaust stud of a Camaro after glowing them up cherry red with an oxy acetylene torch then zipping them off with a pneumatic impact gun. They were so messed up. The worst I've ever seen. They came off like butter.
I've had several occasions where I've spent an hour pulling and pushing on various different tools, spraying WD40 or other lubricants all over, and still can't get a bolt to even budge, let alone start turning.... And then I come back a few days later to try again, and it spins straight out like it was brand new.
I had a Master Mould maker teach Me the art of using taps correctly. I know you knew that tap was going to break but it created better content. You usually try not to hurt gaskets. As always informative for the masses! Still my favorite channel.
A trick I learned last year is to use a Torx bit instead of one of those twisty easy out things. Drill into your bolt like normal, hammer the bit in and see if it’ll turn. I don’t know how well it would do on exhaust studs, but it worked a treat for my motor mount bolt 👍.
Mustie, appreciate all of your knowledge that you've shared. I have learned many ways to diagnose and fix things on my own. I'd like to offer a little FYI to you from my former occupation as a tool and diemaker. Common hand taps, in general, come in four basic types which depends on the number of threads ground on the cutting tip (the chamfer). A taper tap has an 8-10 thread chamfer and would be a "starting tap" because the long taper helps to keep the tap in-line with the hole, a plug tap has a 3-5 thread taper and is for through holes (this is usually the most common tap found in a hardware store), a semi-bottom tap has 2-3 threads for a blind hole and finally a bottom tap with 1-2 threads also for blind holes.
Easy outs/extractor: I have had luck drilling down into the bolt with a small drill then drilling down part way with a larger drill. This is my attempt to give the easy out 2 places to grab rather than just one near the end where the extractor is smaller. I also have a set of left hand (reverse) drills that I haven't tried yet. My theory is that they might loosen the threads in the undo (left) direction and encourage the remaining stud to come out with just the vibration of the drill. Dunno! My mentor told me when using a tap to turn in 2/3 of a turn then back off 1/3 turn to clear the chips. Love using the drill to spin the punch to get a point in the center. That's a new one on me. I'll use that! Thanks for all your good ideas. Ronn
Love how knowledgeable you are on these things. And I speak for others as well, Thank you for breaking that tap so we can see how to fix it when we break it :D
I find these only work if the bolt was broken while installing it (overtorque). They never work on rusted or galled hardware. I have yet to see them work once. My tool box no longer has any left hand drills since I gave up on them ages ago. My favorite method is a combination of two of his techniques. Center drill the broke stud, halfway down it. Weld a washer to the bolt center until it is flush with the surface of the washer Then weld a nut to the washer. All the heat, penetration and expansion/contraction will usually get it. If it doesn't, you are drilling it out fully, and trying to preserve the threads. Last ditch, a thread repair insert will finish it off.
Not a single person would show on watch with all these platforms but the boss!! Mister musty!! I did this on a daily basis!! Thanks for explaining how the drill bit get hard and the material your working on gets hard. They are like why did my drill bit melt????? Lmao
Way back when I was a salvage machinist at Caterpillar Tractor Company I used an electrical discharge machining (EDM) machine to remove broken taps and drills from holes in steel and cast. The EDM would use a hollow consumable electrode that had coolant running thru it. It would slowly eat a hole thru the tap or drill and then you would take a punch and break up the remaining material in the hole without damaging the parent material. With just regular bolts and studs I would just drill them like Mustie did and then collapse the remainder out and re tap the holes.
The induction coil heaters have come down a lot. My nephew bought one off of Amazon for around $200 and said it works great. He's a maintenance mechanic, he took his to work and they loved it enough to buy 1 for the maintenance crews to use.
Hi D. I was a little worried when the tap broke. I knew that you would find a way to get it out,lol. I’ve watched you enough through the years to know that you don’t give up!! Awesome video as always!! Hope you have a great week!!😊😊😊😊Darren
Hi. I always really enjoy your videos, one of my weekly highlights. I've never really understood the heat thing though. If you heat up what is effectively a ring of metal, and it expands, the expansion is in all directions. This, to me, means that it expands inwards as well which surely closes the hole down tighter on the bolt that you're trying to remove.
yes IMO it has to heat cycle hot and cold, several times and the two metal surfaces will heat and cool slightly differently, so might break their bond a bit.
Excellent video Mustie 1 :) also remember help my dad tractor desiel motor manifold put new studs in took lots hard hours do with no heat in Machinery Shed on home farm and lighting was horrible too especially Winter Season months doing it ! That was 1990's in my teenage years Lol and remember in my high school Auto Mechanics & Welding Shop classes to and do at to for credits marks too ! I remember man teacher had he said lots ways do them and task make right too !
I see people struggle with gaskets,easy off oven cleaner,spray on walk away and an hour later wipe it off,with the old gasket material, there's some good advice from one of your biggest fans 🎉
Greatly appreciated; just wish you had a secret miracle method to pass on. I'll try to remember your video for passing on to others for doing this task; also impressed at your lack of apparent frustration with the overall process - doubt I could do the same.
Removing nut/ screws is an art. In the aviation world I have seen removal of counterscrews by drilling off center towards the side and using a punch to tap it loose & back the hardware out. Rich USAF 81-85
Glad to see your comment I’ve used this method with great success Thanks for service as well as I (army 72-74) Yes it’s an art and a whole lot of patience CHEERS
Great video! Being from Maine, this is life. Pleeeeease tell us more about your LeMons car! Fixing old junk up here in the rust belt is often a matter of necessity, but racing said junk is delightful madness! Love this channel
Every garage should get a set of Walton tap extractors - I've used mine dozens of times (yes I'm telling on myself and how many taps I've broken!). Never had one fail and they work fast and easy.
Having had to remove a snapped indicator pin from a Sturmey-Archer three speed gear hub last year, I can recommend using reverse, left handed drill bits for the drilling out. You still get to make the holes (very small and awkward ones in my case!) but the drilling action is itself putting some torque on the pin/stud to help free it.
Been there....done that! This is great video show and tell. I was a bit surprised that you didnt mention that taps are often marked with the recommended drill bit size to use for the pilot thru hole. It may help reduce breaaking taps....but still no guarantee.
excellent video, watching ratrod bob I bought a plasma what a great invention they are. keep them coming always nice to have a cup of Joe and watch it in th emornings
Reverse or left hand drills are good for removing broken studs. As you go up the sizes there is a good chance that the remaining ring of thead will unscrew with the action of the final size drill bit. The pressure of the stud thread on the outer is relieved by the drilling and the friction of the rotating drill catches and unscrews it.Not always but it is a worthwhile technique before using the extractors.
i use to just try and drill it out if it's to bad drill it out a little bigger and then put a bigger bolt in and cut the bolt off and tap the hole to the right size bolt but that's just my way of doing it and it works out better. great video.
Very informative Musti1 - thanks. The only thing I can think to add is sometimes (if you have enough threads on a stud) you can lock 2 nuts together and then turn out the bottom nut.
I enjoyed the whole video, Teaching some new tricks can go a long way.I would like to learn about putting the metal fins on a VW Bug engine,or replacing fins on a motor.Thank you sir.Later
I have found left handed twist drills work really good for this - same method for drilling out but they usually grab at some point and wind the stud out.
Mustie1, just as you were saying to go easy with the tap, it reminded me about when I had to tap over 30 holes in some "gummy" aluminum and my tap snapped when about half done. Next thing I see, YOUR tap snapped. Yup, we just have to take it easy.
A couple tips- when trying the welded nut procedure, first find a large flat washer and weld it to the broken stud, then lay a larger nut on it and weld the nut to the end of the stud and weld the nut around the outside to the washer. This give you a lot more surface of contact that will not break. Failing the weld method, use your exhaust flange gasket as a pattern and drill a plate that matches your holes and bolt the plate on and the hole is a good guide to drill through the center of the stud.
I remember way back when, the first time I ever used a tap. I knew that I had to clear the chips. As you started tapping the threads my memory went back to that first time.. as the saying goes " Deja vu all over again." 🤣🤣🤣
Aircraft Mx, so no fire options ever at work... On the Easy-out usage get it in a tap handle (anything else sideloads WAY too much) get 8-16 oz hammer and choke up on it, put easyout in hole, moderately bump the easyout in while trying to lightly loosen easyout until it Bites well. (A good bite holds the Easy and handle in place and you can load some torque onto it.) Then keep tapping quick & lighter on easyout handle while turning loose. Hammer to act ike a manual "ScrewKnocker" to keep seated and biting. On the Through-holed one one you wanted to drill the threads clear: triangle Needle-file or Pencil grinder with carbide burr, attack at spot closest to threads, once it cuts through enough, the remaining thread-sleeve can collapse inward to a smaller diameter and is a weaker structure that's not fully corrosion welded in place.
Sorry Darren, we can't offer much advice here in the UK, as these kind of repairs are way over our heads. But your vids are always VERY interesting. Me and my other half, love watching your vids late in the evening. "Snuggle up with Mustie", open a tin of Budweiser, pop some popcorn, and laugh when things go horribly wrong. Cheers Darren. All stay safe your end, and keep wrenching those wrenches. Love and Respect. Wayne, Barbara & Nina (Ipswich, Suffolk, UK) 🫡🫡🫡🫡🫡🫡🫡🫡🫡🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸❤️❤️❤️❤️❌️❌️❌️😊😊😊😊😊
Those studs are almost welded in, and hard too! Have you tried cobalt or carbide drills? ( Much harder than normal HSS drills, but brittle) I also have a set of Left Hand drills. ( Yes they do exist!) which sometimes extract the broken stud as you drill Anticlockwise. I have had some success with Rigid Tools extractors. A splined shaft which you hammer into the hole in the stud and a special nut which fits over the splines. When all else fails, Spark Eroding does the job, including broken off drills and taps. Your local engineering shop may have one.
Really enjoyed this one. I always wonder how mechanics deal with events like this. Stuck and rounded nuts and bolts similarly. A few more of these please Mustie!
I have started using the reverse spiral drill bits, quite frequently, the bolt will thread itself out. I will have to try the plasma cutter idea sometime.
I did mechanical inspection and assembly work. To see inside holes i would shine a light thru the oppsite side worked great. If the oppsite side was avaialble.
Hello Mustie: A very good demonstration. One thing you did not show was annealing the cast ear you hardened. Heat the ear cherry red and let cool as slowly as you can. Sticking the ear in some dry sand or just dirt (It must be Dry) to slow the cooling helps the anneal. Then try with the drill again.the ear should be softer and a good drill should be able to cut into it. Also works on the broken tap. Oxygen acetylene very fine tip just heat the broken tap red hot let cool then drill. Multiple heating may be required. It is a slow repair method but works well if you can afford the time.
2 more items to add to the "removing broken bolts/studs" toolkit should be a set of GOOD left hand drill bits, and a set of cobalt drill bits for the hardened metal. I've had both for quite a long time & come in very handy.
I've actually had quite a bit of success with left handed drill bits, especially on smaller steel bolts that have snapped or rounded off in aluminium motorcycle engine casings.
I worked Tool and Die most of my life and all you did was right. There are several other ways to handle some but your basics are correct. Before they had Plasma cutters we used what was called air arcing methods using carbon rods. If you had enough meat aoround the holes, you also could have introduced Heli-coils etc... Kind of a boring video but much better than the one I made.... None... LoL
Great tutorial video, and when the tap snapped I gasped, but a Pro never misses a beat. In my experience where you have clearance and a open hole, I just drill it out and use a quality nut and bolt.
It's always better to first weld on a washer to a broken off stud/bolt Because you get a way better bond than trying to weld through the little hole in a nut. After the washer is on, weld the nut onto the washer. 2) A really good trick I learned from the internet: Make the stud and the surrounding fairly warm (with a hairdryer) but not hot and then put wax on it. Usually the melting wax will be soaked into the threads. Wax is a really good lubricant. If you have access to both sides of the bolt/stud (like it is here), you of course let soak in wax on both sides. 3) Lefthand drill bits can be very helpful too. 4) The cast iron must be heated up much more (till it glows red). This will usually loosen the rust on/in the threads. Best regards, luck and health in particular.
Nice! This will be useful for some of us. 🤘 Edit: MAP gas burns 70° hotter than propane. When you break your tap, you weld the nut on it. The heat makes it less brittle.
My go-to for removing stubborn studs and bolts: Heat the area with a torch then apply candle wax to the threads letting it melt into the area - works every time for me!
Any RUclipsr can show how to remove broken studs/bolts when nothing goes wrong. and they have a Mill and Carbide Tools as backups.
Only Mustie cam show you everything that does go wrong, yet still end up with a working fix with what you have in the home shop.
Way to go!
Think he still has that mill back at his home.
But this is a good example how most people have to struggle with broken bolts and studs.
surprised he does not have oxy acetylene would have made that much easer. CHERRY RED....makes all the difference.
There was a collective "oh shit!" when the tap snapped lol😂
Yes heard it too 😂😂
Yep, been there!
Literally, said it out loud.
@brandanwilliams6865 have no idea how much trouble I put myself through jus5 to avoid having to do that
I felt that through the screen.
Hope everything is ok. Sunday mornings, coffee, & Mustie1 has become a guilty pleasure of some of us for years.
RIP Mustie1
Can't believe I spent an hour watching you remove studs, yet you made it entertaining. Thanks Mustie.
There's hope for you. Many people have the attention span of a gnat, 5 minutes or less, for a "boring" informational video --- but they can sit through a 2 hour movie as long as the room is dark and there's tons of CGI explosions, extreme drama and other excitements that makes up the bulk of established mindless entertainment.
I was thinking the same thing.
I have to say I was a bit skeptical this particular one would hold my interest, then I noticed there was 5 minutes left of the video. 🤣
I wanted to say thank you, yesterday I replaced the wheel bearing in my 2015 E-Golf that was "growling", I would have never had the confidence to have attempted the repair myself without watching your videos over the years. You have also taught me a ton about Volkswagens and I am restoring my 68 vw double cab right now, as well as my 79 westy. Metal work and all. Thanks Darren I have learned so much from you.
If you're absent from a new bearing source (brick and mortar store, Scamazon, etc), repacking the old bearing can make it serve for another 100 extra miles but it depends on its condition. That might serve you well in a future Mad Max scenario.
good stuff.
@@Hjerte_Verke I just pulled a bearing apart. Took the seal cover off and cleaned it and repacked it on one of my tools. Worked perfectly. there was really no pitting and it was not completely seized. Cleaned the old grease and dirt out, put some new grease in there and pushed the seal cover back on. Spins Like new.
@@Mikefngarage I have learned a ton from you too Mike!
How many miles did you put on an e-Golf that the wheel bearings are bad?
With 100 miles of range on a good day, shouldn't that take 20 years :)
I did 13 years as an aircraft machinist in the Air Force. Our primary job was to remove stuck or damaged hardware and repair damaged threads. Sometimes, the head would just pop off or the part twisted or moved, so the bolt broke. One time, I used the eraser on a #2 pencil to spin the broken bolt out. Once. You had to find how the bolt got broken, was it found gone, did it break trying to get it out, or did it break going in? The last 2 you might as well forget the extractor and grab the drills. A lot of our hardware were exotic metals that hardened when they broke. If you center punched them it made them harder.
For the 1/4 inch and under we used carbide rotary files and just carved them out.
If you don't want to break a drill off you REALLY DON'T want to break an extractor.
You REALLY, REALLY DON'T want to break carbide.
The manifold bolts in the heads of my truck were so hard a drill would not even mark them. It was a long slow slog taking those bolts out. Yes the heads were still on the engine in the truck. It SUCKED!
A lot of the time we were the end user for a part. If we couldn't repair the threads or remove the bolt, the part by regulation had to be sent back to the manufacturer or our depot. Either way, the part came off our inventory and had to be replaced. We were really insulted if that happened. That was your taxpayers money we couldn't save. Aircraft parts, especially weapons and delivery systems were not allowed repairs of any kind. Some parts were classified and you got to have CLOSE scrutiny doing your work. Try getting a stuck screw out with three security police holding weapons at ready. These guys were more nervous than I was!
They weren't helping things.
I told them to back off just a tiny bit....
LOL!
Aircraft parts, even the bolts are expensive. We took our job seriously and tried our best not to waste your money.
Out in the real world I used to TIG weld balls of metal to the end of broken taps. MIG welding didn't transfer the heat well and they just broke off.
It's not for the novice or inexperienced. You can make things worse, fast.
Even with all my experience things still kicked my ass.
Like the exhaust bolts.
There are many other specialized ways to remove these disasters but it requires equipment you normally don't have at home.
Musty, you did fine. I have broken many taps and easy outs in my 47 year career.
The big thing is you can only call yourself to get it out. There isn't anyone going to come to your rescue. Except me. I'm too expensive and much too old anymore.
My number is unlisted......LOL!
Cheers
Terry
Informational AND entertaining reply! Exhaust bolts kick everyone's ass! Cheers terryfromsouthcarolina4601!
What a great comment my friend. Without spilling the beans. Can you generically talk about what type of part or hardware would require a guard standing by while you work on it? I'm in the security world and really can't think of what hard metal part would be so sensitive. Electronics/computer related things. Yes. But not something requiring a machinist. Cheers
@@giggiddy replacing solid inserts in a nuclear guidance system. They brought it into the shop under heavy security. The shop was outside of the weapons storage area.😎👍
@@terryfromsouthcarolina4601 Very cool. And thank you for the response. Take care.
@MarkDeaton-cx4ke 28 FMS Metals Technology ( machine and welding shops combined in 1986)
Ellsworth AFB 83 to 91.😎👍
Sorry to hear that you have been unwell Mustie. Wishing you a full and speedy recovery.
Always the teacher to bring us along.
One thing I could recommend with broken studs is left hand drill bits. After you center punch the broken stud, the left hand bit (with your drill on reverse) cuts the stud counterclockwise. The vibration and heat going counterclockwise urges the stud to back out. The bits are a little pricey but I think they're worth it.
This is hands down my favorite way to remove stuck bolts - watching someone else do it! 👍
Har har, nice one 😂
Totally the worst car job thrre is ever...
Can’t believe I spent an hour watching this, but you did it again with a very informative “how to” video! Thank you
If they ever bring back shop class in schools...this is the video to teach from...! For the beginner and for the seasoned ...pro..it's a great video to watch...
Why would they bring back shop classes to individual schools when they have county wide or multi county vocational schools where each school district sends students interested in a trade to be taught by real trades people. They have carpentry,plumbing, masonry, electrical, small engine repair. Auto repair and body repair, metal/ welding .animal care/Pre veterinary, office management,computer , cosmetology and pretty much training for nearly every career that are taught by actual professions from those careers. These classes are for about three hours a day every day. I took carpentry but begin with teaching you basic household electrical,plumbing, masonry. Guys that were in their 2nd and 3rd year of masonry built beautiful fireplaces (reusable mortar). Auto shop have real cars to work on and do body work on. In carpentry class we did everything from making furniture , laminate,framing structures. Every wood project we started with rough sawn wood and had to mill it to what we needed. We had actual large project instead of the usual little project for Mom we did in shop class in jr highschool. Individual school now have tech class where they do things that are more tech related. My former highschool has a metal ship and an auto class but that's for kids with rich daddies who bought them cars and must have high grades who will never be a mechanic. And except for three states , every school by law has to do the Pledge each day. The three other states leave it up to the district. The Pledge is another one of those misconceptions that many people think they don't do in school anymore
Won't ever happen in mainstream public high schools unless you're in a super rural area. TPTB want you as dumb as possible; makes you easier to control.
@MarkDeaton-cx4ke Very true, me too. Metal shop, machine shop, auto shop, wood shop, electrical shop, drafting, and vocational auto shop in my senior year taught me a lot also. I was lucky enough to go to a school that offered it all, but it was the 60's and things where cheaper then.
I'm a retired shop teacher. Absolutely we need for students to take shop classes. If we aren't careful we'll have a generation that can't pour water out of a boot with directions on the heel!
To busy with other agendas rather than education .
I hate those easi-out extractors - breaking one of those off in the hole is much worse than breaking a tap - easi-outs are much more solid than a tap, thus so much harder to break out of the hole. Years of experience pretty much led me to how you do it, drill it out. Knowing how to work the drill bit to recentre the hole is something that comes with practice. Great to see people like yourself passing knowledge like this along.
Agreed. Just keep drilling, and tap it next size up. No easyouts for me
They are great for removing broken grease zerks on machinery tho.
Pretty much the only time I'll use them.
If the bolt is going to be easy to get out, use an Easy Out, maybe, if not, don't go near the bloody things. Talking to an engineer one time he said he never uses easy out, refused to have them in his shop. He ground the end of an allen key dead flat and drove that into a hole he drilled in the bolt. He reckoned it worked best of all. Never had reason to try it myself but might be worth a try for.
@@brucecliffe6213 "Talking to an engineer one time he said he never uses easy out"
Well if one person you talked to said he didn't like them, that must surely make the entire product a waste of time, right :-)
" He ground the end of an allen key dead flat and drove that into a hole he drilled in the bolt."
So... he made his own version of the easy-out?
I prefer to listen to people who can tell me _why_ they don't use a product, not just that it sucks. More often than not its comes down to that they have their own preferred method that they have been using for years (with varying rates success) and they tried the easy-out once and it didn't work immediately so they trashed it and went back to their old method.
Every product is designed for a particular application and if you use the wrong method: that's a you problem, not a problem with the tool. The easy out stuff is created for the average joe and the problems then encounter. The average joe is not going to fight a bolt that has broken 1 inch deep in a hole and has been locktited into that hole 45 years ago and rusted over inside a piece of cast iron.
Drilling out is good until the drill wanders and the hole becomes a slot. 😢 Especially if there is a broken drill bit in the hole already.
Mustie I've enjoyed watching most of your videos, and learnt a few things, but I must say this one was painful for me. I used to be a fitter on a sand mining plant where a lot of Caterpillar D7 and D8 Dozers were used, among a lot of other stuff like Caterpillar 988 and big pumps etc. This was a very harsh environment for machinery, being constantly in and out of salt water. I very often had to remove broken studs in the blade attachments, mostly 5/8 and 3/4 inch. previously we used to blow them out with a cutting nozzle on the Oxy, but I found the best method was to weld a piece of bar, at near right angles to the axis of the stud, and when completely cooled, wind it out with that, or if constricted for room I'd cut an angle on the end of a big bolt and weld that onto the broken stud. It's important to completely cool what I could get at with a very wet rag as quick as possible so that it shrinks ever so slightly and it would almost always release. I feel that if you'd heated the parent part, and quickly cooled the stud you'd have had much more success. It's the temperature difference that releases the bond, and you were doing that the opposite way. I have removed hundreds of broken studs in my working career, and restored a lot of old very neglected and rusted up machinery, mainly by heating and cooling, heating and cooling. Now 80, but still enjoy preety much what you do except I don't film it. I've so far never had one beat me. Keep up your interesting passion Sir.
Darren said why he didn't want to heat quench this. He was worried about the cast iron thermal stressing and cracking.
1pcfred...
You missed the ppint that you quench the stud, NOT the cast. That's the point. Heat the area outside the stud (expand) and cool the stud (contract). And, he didn't get it near hot enough. The cast should get to glowing red with oxy acetylene. This commentor is spot on.
Please people, realize that as experienced and smart as Darren is, you can be sure there are many people more experienced and smarter in various areas that he is. RUclips does not make one the top genius. Please leave the old Television star worship behind!!!
@@videodistro and just how are you going to keep the water off the cast? I've hit cast iron with oxy acetylene flame. It's not so easy to get cast iron to glow with a flame. Cast iron doesn't heat up like steel does.
@@1pcfred If you read attentatively, you will read that I cool the stud with a very wet rag. certainly not quenching the whole part.
@@peterbarnes8737 I don't quench. I know lots do it but lots do lots of stupid crap. What works for me is glowing the hardware up until it is incandescent then while it's still sparking up I hit it hard with an impact gun. I call it, strike while the iron's hot. That works because it burns the rust out and softens the metal up enough the parts can smear past each other. Because those threads are all pitted and chowdered. Cooled off they're just not going to slide. That ship has sailed. You have to deal with the new normal.
I thoroughly enjoy watching "someone else" struggle with a broken bolt/stud repair, especially with a mechanic master.
I would only add that I've acquired a set of spring loaded self centering drill bits that carpenters use to drill out door hinges. I believe I found a set at McMaster Carr years ago and they work great for situations such as drilling out these broken bolts/studs.
Just my 2 cents now.
Alot of us are rushing when met with this situation so can end up with the problem escalating so it's good that you show this stuff to us impatient people.
It recently cost my friend a whole new engine in his car. He broke some bolts, tried everything and just made it worse boogering it up. He admits he rushed it and shouldn't have. Besides the cost of a new motor and installation, he spent over $200 dollars on various drill bits and easy-outs and taps and stuff. Pretty expensive lesson about taking your time on stuff like this and thinking it all out carefully.
I've had really good luck drilling down into the center of the stud or bolt then welding a nut on
It gives the weld more area to grab on to
Appreciate the great videos 👍
Life is Good. Going to school here and having the greatest teacher Mustie1. I really enjoy this different type of video. I like them alll. What a GREAT channel Mustie1 thanks
I was about 16 or so when I watched my father struggle with a broken bolt in cast iron. I was taking high school FFA shop classes and knew just enough to be dangerous. Dad got the bolt drilled out nice and straight and was tapping .... SNAP! Well I learned some new words that day that I can't repeat here. A few words silently went through my mind at the same time but, not nearly as colorful as my Dad's. I knew that the tap was made out of something even Superman would struggle with and I had no clue what to do. Dad, didn't know either, first he tried to jiggle it out..Not happening, then he found to the smallest welding rod he had (might have been a coat hanger) and plugged it into the old Forney stick welder with about 200 amperage selection holes in the front of it. (most of the holes were blocked up by mud daubers)
One touch and the whole tap shrunk! the edges melted off and he could pull it out with a needle nose pliers. I'm 60 years old and I still miss my Dad.
This was a good one Mustie !, because snapping a bolt means end of project for lots of ppl.
Mustie translated means Determination, Tenacity and Patience. Learned a lot watching this,
I wish more people had those traits myself included.
Very good video showing the frustration and determination of broken studs and bolts. I was surprised you didn't use left hand rotation drill bits. I got a set of them about 30 years ago and they have been miracle workers. True the studs are much more difficult than most bolts. Almost all of my broken bolts and studs weren't work bench style. The only other thing I can comment on is the frustration when you use the spray bottle and it has lost it's prime. I would have given up on it or searched for the reason long ago. Keep on teaching us even at almost 80 I'm still wrenching as much as I can.
I liked the video. Great information for people new to wrenching. Sometimes an air hammer will shock a stud loose. Mustie has shown splitting a rusted manifold nut with a chisel in VW videos. Done right, it looks like a magic trick.
I hope that your neck feels better, because we really appreciate your videos for learning purposes.
Thanks Mustie, another entertaining master class. 😂
FYI @ 40:57 the tap on the right is a 'Spiral Point' tap sometimes referred to as a gun tap. It pushes the waste forward so doesn't muck up your nicely cut threads. Because of this, it should really only be used in a through hole. Another great tap often used in machining is the 'Spiral Flute' tap. It sorta works like a twist drill pulling the waste up as it rotates, so it doesn't need backing off like a normal tap.
Many years ago, I was a machinist in the Air Force. Besides the usual machine shop duties, I probably removed thousands of broken fasteners from aircraft. Some were quite challenging. I used to hate coming into work on a Monday morning in nicely pressed fatigues and handed a job to remove broken studs inside the cowling of a C-54. So much for a clean uniform!
I was a 43131 in the Air Force in 1984 on F-4's. I got dirty just looking at the aircraft.
@@ritchiesokol1061 I used to hate underwing panels 89 L and R on F-4s
Thanks Mustie, great demonstration of the different thoughts and ways to accomplish the task. Also good to hear someone else explain that extractors have a very limited use in pulling a busted stud/bolt, can't tell you how many I busted thinking I was doing something wrong.
Teacher of the Year, right there.
Very engaging. Thanks, for all your video work!
Never would have guessed you to be a Budweiser man! Maybe those were left from a guest. As always, SO informative & entertaining!
Thanks for the misery (memories). At 15 (60 yrs ago) I managed to break off a valve cover bolt in a 2.4l I-6 Ford. I learned quickly that I didn't know as much as I thought I did. Thanks to you I'm still learning. Narragansett Bay
Mine was a 1974 Vega. Exhaust sound when I backed of the gas. Rich S. Class of 81.
Mustie1, ur Creativity and Engineering job of getting the studs-out is top Notch... have two beers on me..
A tip I learned is that you can almost always sharpen your drill bits to be better than what they are. It took me a while to wrap my head around how to grind them by hand on a bench grinder, but the end result dug in better, and got me the results I needed.
I once spent several days heating/spraying Volvo exhaust manifold studs as they are prone to snapping -100% success. I worked them slowly each day spraying and putting through a number of heat cycles until I started to get movement. I was not in the mood to drill. Sometimes slow and steady with some patience gets it.
I once spend several minutes removing the nuts on the exhaust stud of a Camaro after glowing them up cherry red with an oxy acetylene torch then zipping them off with a pneumatic impact gun. They were so messed up. The worst I've ever seen. They came off like butter.
I've had several occasions where I've spent an hour pulling and pushing on various different tools, spraying WD40 or other lubricants all over, and still can't get a bolt to even budge, let alone start turning....
And then I come back a few days later to try again, and it spins straight out like it was brand new.
I had a Master Mould maker teach Me the art of using taps correctly. I know you knew that tap was going to break but it created better content. You usually try not to hurt gaskets. As always informative for the masses! Still my favorite channel.
A trick I learned last year is to use a Torx bit instead of one of those twisty easy out things. Drill into your bolt like normal, hammer the bit in and see if it’ll turn. I don’t know how well it would do on exhaust studs, but it worked a treat for my motor mount bolt 👍.
Oh and also, “it can’t be tight if it’s a liquid!” 🔥
Mustie, appreciate all of your knowledge that you've shared. I have learned many ways to diagnose and fix things on my own. I'd like to offer a little FYI to you from my former occupation as a tool and diemaker. Common hand taps, in general, come in four basic types which depends on the number of threads ground on the cutting tip (the chamfer). A taper tap has an 8-10 thread chamfer and would be a "starting tap" because the long taper helps to keep the tap in-line with the hole, a plug tap has a 3-5 thread taper and is for through holes (this is usually the most common tap found in a hardware store), a semi-bottom tap has 2-3 threads for a blind hole and finally a bottom tap with 1-2 threads also for blind holes.
Definitely a full explanation of what & how to replace a stud!
Easy outs/extractor: I have had luck drilling down into the bolt with a small drill then drilling down part way with a larger drill. This is my attempt to give the easy out 2 places to grab rather than just one near the end where the extractor is smaller. I also have a set of left hand (reverse) drills that I haven't tried yet. My theory is that they might loosen the threads in the undo (left) direction and encourage the remaining stud to come out with just the vibration of the drill. Dunno! My mentor told me when using a tap to turn in 2/3 of a turn then back off 1/3 turn to clear the chips. Love using the drill to spin the punch to get a point in the center. That's a new one on me. I'll use that! Thanks for all your good ideas. Ronn
Love how knowledgeable you are on these things. And I speak for others as well, Thank you for breaking that tap so we can see how to fix it when we break it :D
Yeah. He broke the tap on purpose for demonstration purposes... yeah, well go with that 😅
Have you tried left hand drill bits? Drill bits that cut in a counter clockwise direction.
I find these only work if the bolt was broken while installing it (overtorque). They never work on rusted or galled hardware. I have yet to see them work once. My tool box no longer has any left hand drills since I gave up on them ages ago.
My favorite method is a combination of two of his techniques. Center drill the broke stud, halfway down it. Weld a washer to the bolt center until it is flush with the surface of the washer Then weld a nut to the washer. All the heat, penetration and expansion/contraction will usually get it. If it doesn't, you are drilling it out fully, and trying to preserve the threads. Last ditch, a thread repair insert will finish it off.
Thx for the video. RUclips has endless carb cleans and welding nuts on bolts. But only one OG, Moustie!
I've seen people heat up the manifold then use freeze off on the stud. 60% of the time. It works every time. Great video😁😀🤣😎
That doesn't make sense hahaha.
Dry ice?
@@Ike-i5t if you need “cold”, consider some of the over the counter wart removers which have small canisters of liquid nitrogen. Dramatic difference.
@@edstevens1435 Metal expands when heated, by heating the manifold he expanded the hole, by freezing the stud he shrunk it. That loosens it up.
Thanks for the shop time Mustie1! I always enjoy learning new tips and tricks. Just need the plasma cutter now!
Thank you for this! I am glad to see that I am not the only one fighting with rusted, stubborn studs and sometimes winning, sometimes losing!
Not a single person would show on watch with all these platforms but the boss!! Mister musty!! I did this on a daily basis!! Thanks for explaining how the drill bit get hard and the material your working on gets hard. They are like why did my drill bit melt????? Lmao
Way back when I was a salvage machinist at Caterpillar Tractor Company I used an electrical discharge machining (EDM) machine to remove broken taps and drills from holes in steel and cast. The EDM would use a hollow consumable electrode that had coolant running thru it. It would slowly eat a hole thru the tap or drill and then you would take a punch and break up the remaining material in the hole without damaging the parent material. With just regular bolts and studs I would just drill them like Mustie did and then collapse the remainder out and re tap the holes.
Did you ever work on the robotic welders if you did my brother in law built and designed a few of them
The induction coil heaters have come down a lot. My nephew bought one off of Amazon for around $200 and said it works great. He's a maintenance mechanic, he took his to work and they loved it enough to buy 1 for the maintenance crews to use.
Hi D. I was a little worried when the tap broke. I knew that you would find a way to get it out,lol. I’ve watched you enough through the years to know that you don’t give up!! Awesome video as always!! Hope you have a great week!!😊😊😊😊Darren
How to make a hour long video on stud removal interesting…. Great job!
Hi. I always really enjoy your videos, one of my weekly highlights. I've never really understood the heat thing though. If you heat up what is effectively a ring of metal, and it expands, the expansion is in all directions. This, to me, means that it expands inwards as well which surely closes the hole down tighter on the bolt that you're trying to remove.
yes IMO it has to heat cycle hot and cold, several times and the two metal surfaces will heat and cool slightly differently, so might break their bond a bit.
Excellent video Mustie 1 :) also remember help my dad tractor desiel motor manifold put new studs in took lots hard hours do with no heat in Machinery Shed on home farm and lighting was horrible too especially Winter Season months doing it ! That was 1990's in my teenage years Lol and remember in my high school Auto Mechanics & Welding Shop classes to and do at to for credits marks too ! I remember man teacher had he said lots ways do them and task make right too !
I see people struggle with gaskets,easy off oven cleaner,spray on walk away and an hour later wipe it off,with the old gasket material, there's some good advice from one of your biggest fans 🎉
Great lesson on removing studs and if i ever brake a tap I'll know not to panic and know what to do Great video 👍
Great idea for a video! I’ve found that having a good set of thread chasers, both male and female, is invaluable also.
Great video. Some great info in there. I'd love a mid-week shop tricks video.
Greatly appreciated; just wish you had a secret miracle method to pass on. I'll try to remember your video for passing on to others for doing this task; also impressed at your lack of apparent frustration with the overall process - doubt I could do the same.
I keep a set of cobalt bits on hand. They are expensive but they cut thru anything like butter. Great video.
Just watching Mustie re-center the drilling of that second stud was worth the price of admission.
another highly instructive lecture by Professor Mustie....!
when the tap broke on hole 1 out of 6 it is time to get another manifold...
Removing nut/ screws is an art.
In the aviation world I have seen removal of counterscrews by drilling off center towards the side and using a punch to tap it loose & back the hardware out. Rich USAF 81-85
Glad to see your comment I’ve used this method with great success Thanks for service as well as I (army 72-74) Yes it’s an art and a whole lot of patience CHEERS
Great video! Being from Maine, this is life. Pleeeeease tell us more about your LeMons car! Fixing old junk up here in the rust belt is often a matter of necessity, but racing said junk is delightful madness! Love this channel
Every garage should get a set of Walton tap extractors - I've used mine dozens of times (yes I'm telling on myself and how many taps I've broken!). Never had one fail and they work fast and easy.
Having had to remove a snapped indicator pin from a Sturmey-Archer three speed gear hub last year, I can recommend using reverse, left handed drill bits for the drilling out. You still get to make the holes (very small and awkward ones in my case!) but the drilling action is itself putting some torque on the pin/stud to help free it.
Great video. All the steps. Including how to fix a broken tap. Haha. It's a more authentic way to show the progress.
Been there....done that! This is great video show and tell. I was a bit surprised that you didnt mention that taps are often marked with the recommended drill bit size to use for the pilot thru hole. It may help reduce breaaking taps....but still no guarantee.
Great how too, hope your feeling better Mustie
Learned something every video.
Recently I broke a 3/8 tap and ended up grinding it so it would break out with a Dremel and diamond bits.
excellent video, watching ratrod bob I bought a plasma what a great invention they are. keep them coming always nice to have a cup of Joe and watch it in th emornings
Reverse or left hand drills are good for removing broken studs. As you go up the sizes there is a good chance that the remaining ring of thead will unscrew with the action of the final size drill bit. The pressure of the stud thread on the outer is relieved by the drilling and the friction of the rotating drill catches and unscrews it.Not always but it is a worthwhile technique before using the extractors.
Murphy's Law at its finest!. . . .the only thing you were lucky enough not to do is break one of the ears off the flanges. Love your videos!
I learned a little, so thanks!
What I’d really like to see is a similar video on aluminum blocks. 🔧👍
Dude...when you broke the tap off I almost cried for you!
I cursed, for him. Hats off to him for NOT saying the things I couldn't have helped but say, loudly!
36:37
i use to just try and drill it out if it's to bad drill it out a little bigger and then put a bigger bolt in and cut the bolt off and tap the hole to the right size bolt but that's just my way of doing it and it works out better. great video.
I'm glad I woke up early..thx for the times
Very informative Musti1 - thanks. The only thing I can think to add is sometimes (if you have enough threads on a stud) you can lock 2 nuts together and then turn out the bottom nut.
I enjoyed the whole video, Teaching some new tricks can go a long way.I would like to learn about putting the metal fins on a VW Bug engine,or replacing fins on a motor.Thank you sir.Later
I have found left handed twist drills work really good for this - same method for drilling out but they usually grab at some point and wind the stud out.
Totally one of the best methods as drilling gets a lot of heat into the stud too...
Mustie1, just as you were saying to go easy with the tap, it reminded me about when I had to tap over 30 holes in some "gummy" aluminum and my tap snapped when about half done. Next thing I see, YOUR tap snapped. Yup, we just have to take it easy.
A couple tips- when trying the welded nut procedure, first find a large flat washer and weld it to the broken stud, then lay a larger nut on it and weld the nut to the end of the stud and weld the nut around the outside to the washer. This give you a lot more surface of contact that will not break. Failing the weld method, use your exhaust flange gasket as a pattern and drill a plate that matches your holes and bolt the plate on and the hole is a good guide to drill through the center of the stud.
I remember way back when, the first time I ever used a tap. I knew that I had to clear the chips. As you started tapping the threads my memory went back to that first time.. as the saying goes " Deja vu all over again." 🤣🤣🤣
I spent the money on one of those induction heaters and it's a life saver at work.
I'm really considering one of those. But how would you use it with something like these that are broken flush? Thanks in advance
Aircraft Mx, so no fire options ever at work...
On the Easy-out usage get it in a tap handle (anything else sideloads WAY too much) get 8-16 oz hammer and choke up on it, put easyout in hole, moderately bump the easyout in while trying to lightly loosen easyout until it Bites well. (A good bite holds the Easy and handle in place and you can load some torque onto it.) Then keep tapping quick & lighter on easyout handle while turning loose. Hammer to act ike a manual "ScrewKnocker" to keep seated and biting.
On the Through-holed one one you wanted to drill the threads clear: triangle Needle-file or Pencil grinder with carbide burr, attack at spot closest to threads, once it cuts through enough, the remaining thread-sleeve can collapse inward to a smaller diameter and is a weaker structure that's not fully corrosion welded in place.
God love you Darren. I wish I had you patience.
Like attending shop class... with a really good instructor.
Sorry Darren, we can't offer much advice here in the UK, as these kind of repairs are way over our heads. But your vids are always VERY interesting.
Me and my other half, love watching your vids late in the evening. "Snuggle up with Mustie", open a tin of Budweiser, pop some popcorn, and laugh when things go horribly wrong.
Cheers Darren.
All stay safe your end, and keep wrenching those wrenches.
Love and Respect.
Wayne, Barbara & Nina (Ipswich, Suffolk, UK)
🫡🫡🫡🫡🫡🫡🫡🫡🫡🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸❤️❤️❤️❤️❌️❌️❌️😊😊😊😊😊
Those studs are almost welded in, and hard too! Have you tried cobalt or carbide drills? ( Much harder than normal HSS drills, but brittle) I also have a set of Left Hand drills. ( Yes they do exist!) which sometimes extract the broken stud as you drill Anticlockwise. I have had some success with Rigid Tools extractors. A splined shaft which you hammer into the hole in the stud and a special nut which fits over the splines. When all else fails, Spark Eroding does the job, including broken off drills and taps. Your local engineering shop may have one.
Really enjoyed this one. I always wonder how mechanics deal with events like this. Stuck and rounded nuts and bolts similarly. A few more of these please Mustie!
I have started using the reverse spiral drill bits, quite frequently, the bolt will thread itself out. I will have to try the plasma cutter idea sometime.
I did mechanical inspection and assembly work. To see inside holes i would shine a light thru the oppsite side worked great. If the oppsite side was avaialble.
Hello Mustie: A very good demonstration. One thing you did not show was annealing the cast ear you hardened. Heat the ear cherry red and let cool as slowly as you can. Sticking the ear in some dry sand or just dirt (It must be Dry) to slow the cooling helps the anneal. Then try with the drill again.the ear should be softer and a good drill should be able to cut into it. Also works on the broken tap. Oxygen acetylene very fine tip just heat the broken tap red hot let cool then drill. Multiple heating may be required. It is a slow repair method but works well if you can afford the time.
2 more items to add to the "removing broken bolts/studs" toolkit should be a set of GOOD left hand drill bits, and a set of cobalt drill bits for the hardened metal. I've had both for quite a long time & come in very handy.
I have had very good luck with cobalt bits also, great on very hardened material, i keep a set just for that purpose
I've actually had quite a bit of success with left handed drill bits, especially on smaller steel bolts that have snapped or rounded off in aluminium motorcycle engine casings.
I worked Tool and Die most of my life and all you did was right. There are several other ways to handle some but your basics are correct. Before they had Plasma cutters we used what was called air arcing methods using carbon rods. If you had enough meat aoround the holes, you also could have introduced Heli-coils etc... Kind of a boring video but much better than the one I made.... None... LoL
Great tutorial video, and when the tap snapped I gasped, but a Pro never misses a beat. In my experience where you have clearance and a open hole, I just drill it out and use a quality nut and bolt.
Oh Mustie thou art human after all. Very helpful as always.
Thank you for showing that the struggle is real!
Only two things missing from this video...alcohol and a brother-in-law telling you where you messed up.
@MarkDeaton-cx4ke
Yes I did see them. First time ever since I've been watching his videos.
Those came out of the little boat in the background.
You missed the 2 beer cans on the bench near the first of the video. Brother in law might be on mute. Lol
Great vid. I like the approach of teaching vids. I learned a lot today Thank You, Love your channel.
It's always better to first weld on a washer to a broken off stud/bolt Because you get a way better bond than trying to weld through the little hole in a nut. After the washer is on, weld the nut onto the washer.
2) A really good trick I learned from the internet: Make the stud and the surrounding fairly warm (with a hairdryer) but not hot and then put wax on it. Usually the melting wax will be soaked into the threads. Wax is a really good lubricant. If you have access to both sides of the bolt/stud (like it is here), you of course let soak in wax on both sides.
3) Lefthand drill bits can be very helpful too.
4) The cast iron must be heated up much more (till it glows red). This will usually loosen the rust on/in the threads.
Best regards, luck and health in particular.
Nice! This will be useful for some of us. 🤘 Edit: MAP gas burns 70° hotter than propane.
When you break your tap, you weld the nut on it. The heat makes it less brittle.
My go-to for removing stubborn studs and bolts: Heat the area with a torch then apply candle wax to the threads letting it melt into the area - works every time for me!