Congratulations on the new tractor! As a person who went from an 8N to a newer tractor, you will appreciate the comforts of the new tractor the longer you sit in the seat... and when it starts every time you turn the key. A note on using the heavy hitch: You've probably already considered this, but when you add 900lbs to the 3pt hitch, you loose 900lbs of log-lifting ability. I believe the 3025e will lift around 1300 lbs on the hitch. Adding 900lbs to begin with would leave you with just 400 pounds of lift. Might be a problem, might not be. My point being, perhaps your money would be better spend adding fluid to the tires (ask about Rim Guard) and buying wheel weights instead of buying more weights for your heavy hitch. Just a thought. Another thought: That loader has a quick attach system, allowing you to attach a ton of different attachments besides the bucket. You might want to consider adding a 3rd function hydraulic valve or diverter valve in the future, which would allow you to run a grapple. Super useful for picking up logs, stumps, rocks, brush, etc. You can also hold logs in the air while you cut them, saving you some filing. Happy tractoring!
ditto on the part about ballast and balance. the grapple for the 3032 is another good idea. either iron weights on the hubs or fluid in the rear tires. beet juice is cheaper than anti-freeze.
I have a JD 1025R and had to fill the rears with RIMGuard, I have no difficulty with traction after adding. Prior to RIM Guard the rears would spin just cutting the grass. I have dug up 24 inch stumps with the Backhoe, ending up with 6 foot holes after. still no issue just take your time and don't overtax the machine.
Buddy no matter how big your tractor is,, ya need to use the bucket and dig around the stump first and break up what roots you can... it will take some time but you will get the hang of it... that tractor is more than capable of doing what you are asking of it "But" ya need to do it the right way, you will learn the different ways to do certain things in time .. it all takes practice... and for wheel ballast use "Rim Guard " almost all dealers have it,, it is non corrosive so wont ruin your tires or rims,, you can actually drink it and it weighs 2.5 pounds per gallon more than water.. and a ballast box will hold a hell of a lot of chains and tools also and that weight to the rear is multiplied cause it is behind the rear axels ,,
Yep. I think I'm going with either a Mahindra 1526 or 1533(if I can scrape enough money) with filled R1s and the shuttle drive. R4s just don't get it done in the woods. I'm not a fan of how the Hydros pull over time. Those old tractors where bulletproof because they were geared. And the JD's are just too light to start with. I'm surprised JD didn't fill your tires for you. I feel I remembered the tires being filled with beat juice as part of the deal when we bought the 1023E. Smaller wheels tho. Hope things are working out for you. And be careful bypassing those switches. You'd feel reel bad if you rolled yourself over pushing that pedal with your hand...
R1's may leave a small rut showing where you drove but R4's leave huge ruts from spinning all the time. I have used both and would never get an R4 unless I was mowing my lawn, which is what a zero turn is for. If I am tractoring in the woods and fields it's R1 all the way.
I've been running mine since 2018 never had a issue, now he obviously didn't do his research, this loader doesn't have Hardly any lifting power.i believe it's only 1400lbs lifting, I use mine for tree work, landscaping, clearing, logging-- pulling.
Hi, I own a John deer tractor and have the rear tires loaded with -40 c windshield washer fluid. It seems to work well for me and added a lot of weight to the back end!
Currently I have rim guard in both rear tires and one 60lb wheel weight on each rear tire. I also have another set I plan to install. I also have 320lbs in suitcase weights that I hang off the 3 point.
You are learning the hard way about why it's worth the $$ for proper ballast and an easily removable loader. With JD's removable setup, you could drop the loader in less than a minute and transfer weights onto a front bracket for heavy pulling in the woods. You could modify the ballast box to attach your pulling chain's by welding in a 2" receiver into the rear, then filling the box with ballast. If you want to be able to quickly dump the box and use the 3pt for something else, look into a quick-hitch setup. Also, the drawbar should still be available for pulling if the box is raised fully. I would ballast off the 3pt before doing tire ballast but by now you have undoubtedly had to commit to your tire choice. Tire ballast is often less $$ in the short run than wheel weights but comes with some long term drawbacks, even the RimGuard. Bucket level indicator is a fairly cheap option that you can install yourself. You could prob make one if you saw what it was. And all JD buckets for CUT loaders have parallel top and bottom edges. ;-)
you would be amazed at how much a backhoe attachment would help you dig up stumps and giving you counterbalance. I had a jd 650. with loader and backhoe and it was a super rig for clearing land.
You could not have spent anytime researching tractors. You complained through the entire video like someone forced you to buy this tractor. I just bought the very same model with a ballast box, a must have. You did provide some really valuable information for me though. I just bought a new 14 foot tandem axle trailer rated at 7000 lbs. I was worried about hauling it with that, not any more.
I did research and talked to three different dealers. The problem is dealers are in the business of selling tractors and not telling the truth. I found out the reason he wanted to sell me the ballast box and not add rim guard to the tires is because they have a 3rd party add rim guard. They would make more money on a ballast box then having a 3rd party tire place come in to add rim guard. So I called the tire guy myself and he said rim guard is $2.5 a gallon 30 gallons per tire. So I adding rim guard. He figured it would add 715 lbs of ballast and would take about an hour.
congrats dude i have the kubota l3301 but i keep a box blade on tractor just for weight that is the issue i am seeing with your tractor to it all about learning just be patient and be careful i don't have fluid in my tires and the box blade does just fine for me
nice video. can I suggest that you look up video by Tractor Mike on How to trailer a tractor. binding it down. not sure where you are located but you may want to check your local laws for trailing machines. not trying to troll you at all just want you use safety for yourself and others as you are transporting your nice new toy
hey, it's your rig. you can run it any way you want. my dealer wouldn't let me leave the lot until I had met ALL USDOT, TXDOT and TXDPS regulations for transporting my 1025R-TLB, tiller and belly mower. I don't know where you got your "one strap" information but you could probably put $5 with it and buy a decent cup of coffee. my TLB had to be on a 16' tandem. it had be secured at FOUR points by FOUR separate chains and ratchet binders. chains and binders for this class load had to be #70. the chains had to be configured to prevent ANY linear OR lateral movement of the TLB. I was allowed to secure the tiller to the trailer forward rail with a 3" ratchet strap by going through the lift point to the side rail anchor points. I had to capture the ends of the tiller with the same strap. NO linear or lateral movement is allowed. Safety is Job 1.
Unless that trailer is rated for close to 5k your over weight. Plus only two points strapped down, if you were to get into an accident you might be looking a big lawsuit. I would cringe if I was behind you on the highway....
From your video I see that you have the 3 pt hitch all the way up[. Try lowering your 3 pt hitch and use it to pick up the log , you might fixed your ballast problem. I use a an I-Match hitch with a adapter for a receiver hitch and I have another piece of square tubing with a weld on hook which I insert into the top of the receiver hitch and use that to skid logs. Worked great on my old 1025R. Haven't had a chance to try it on the 2038R yet.
With my little Kubota, I'm real carefull about jerking on stumps with a chain that s fastened to the three point hitch...If I think I might be jerking on the chain I pull directly of a clevis attached to the tractor frame...hate to see you bend or break the three point!
Put chain on tree you want to move put other end of chain to another tree hook tractor with another chain to the middle of the between tree chain at a 90 degree angle you will double your pulling power to get tree on the ground
The overall light weight of the Deere E Series, coupled with the cast aluminum rear end and very short wheelbase, combine to give you very little weight over the rear tires. I'm sure you've filled them with rim guard by now, so hopefully it's doing better.
That trailer is way to small, you should be using binders and chain as well that axle can't be rated for over 3500 pounds. If you wreck and anything on that trailer touches anyone you will be going to prison or going bankrupt
Turf tires have way less load capacity and the sidewalls are garbage, you will be busting tires in that wooded area!!! Those R4s are rock solid, your problems in this video are all weight related, you need the rear tires filled with beat juice! That tractor is suffering from a lack of rear ballast! My 1025R can outdo your tractor right now because I have my rear tires filled. :)
The R4's are good for lawn. I had R1's (ag tires) on the 8n Ford and they would leave tire tracks. The R4's have good surface displacement so they don't leave ruts. From what I heard tractors with turf tires don't keep their value.
that's funny , not much better than 8N which is not much better than mule!!! I wanted to buy JD first tractor but found out you can't beat Kubota!!! like comparing oranges to green apples. Buy American when you can.
It is not much of a tractor other then a lawn tractor and light yard and home garden work if you can transport it on a small trailer like that has what a 3500lb rating if that. You need the weight of the tractor in order to do anything of any good size and you should not have to buy costly extras to make it work. I have never seen any use for any of these so called compact tractors and what they cost good for anything but very light home yard an garden work. But not at the cost they want. But people have made a demand for these so they know they can jack the cost up. But in the end all you really have is a over priced toy. I would never but one as they can not do much. I been around equipment all my life and your far better off with a mini excavator for all most the same money only because of the fad people have for these toy tractors since the start of people wanting to homestead hobby farm. But find they take for ever to do even the smallest job past light yard work. The loaders will not even lift height enough to load a 3/4 ton. There joke
I don't care what the naysayers are saying. I have one just like yours and I'm pretty impressed with it. That bucket or front end loader is the handiest tool I've ever owned and I am sure thankful for it. Thanks Dave. I'm watching this for the second time and just have to say I am very thankful for my little toy. Its really a work horse and jt fits my budget just fine.
You hit the nail on the head with ballast. Fill the tires and get a quick hitch with suitcase weights. Weight is everything tractors.
Congratulations on the new tractor! As a person who went from an 8N to a newer tractor, you will appreciate the comforts of the new tractor the longer you sit in the seat... and when it starts every time you turn the key.
A note on using the heavy hitch: You've probably already considered this, but when you add 900lbs to the 3pt hitch, you loose 900lbs of log-lifting ability. I believe the 3025e will lift around 1300 lbs on the hitch. Adding 900lbs to begin with would leave you with just 400 pounds of lift. Might be a problem, might not be. My point being, perhaps your money would be better spend adding fluid to the tires (ask about Rim Guard) and buying wheel weights instead of buying more weights for your heavy hitch. Just a thought.
Another thought: That loader has a quick attach system, allowing you to attach a ton of different attachments besides the bucket. You might want to consider adding a 3rd function hydraulic valve or diverter valve in the future, which would allow you to run a grapple. Super useful for picking up logs, stumps, rocks, brush, etc. You can also hold logs in the air while you cut them, saving you some filing.
Happy tractoring!
ditto on the part about ballast and balance. the grapple for the 3032 is another good idea. either iron weights on the hubs or fluid in the rear tires. beet juice is cheaper than anti-freeze.
Would have liked to see you add a trip bucket loader to the 8n first. That would have pulled that stump out for sure
I have a JD 1025R and had to fill the rears with RIMGuard, I have no difficulty with traction after adding. Prior to RIM Guard the rears would spin just cutting the grass. I have dug up 24 inch stumps with the Backhoe, ending up with 6 foot holes after. still no issue just take your time and don't overtax the machine.
Buddy no matter how big your tractor is,, ya need to use the bucket and dig around the stump first and break up what roots you can... it will take some time but you will get the hang of it... that tractor is more than capable of doing what you are asking of it "But" ya need to do it the right way, you will learn the different ways to do certain things in time .. it all takes practice... and for wheel ballast use "Rim Guard " almost all dealers have it,, it is non corrosive so wont ruin your tires or rims,, you can actually drink it and it weighs 2.5 pounds per gallon more than water.. and a ballast box will hold a hell of a lot of chains and tools also and that weight to the rear is multiplied cause it is behind the rear axels ,,
I was worried to move my tractor with a 14 ft trailer and you are using a 10 ft 👍🏻👍🏻I guess that’s a PJ trailer they are well made ...
Yep. I think I'm going with either a Mahindra 1526 or 1533(if I can scrape enough money) with filled R1s and the shuttle drive. R4s just don't get it done in the woods. I'm not a fan of how the Hydros pull over time. Those old tractors where bulletproof because they were geared. And the JD's are just too light to start with. I'm surprised JD didn't fill your tires for you. I feel I remembered the tires being filled with beat juice as part of the deal when we bought the 1023E. Smaller wheels tho. Hope things are working out for you. And be careful bypassing those switches. You'd feel reel bad if you rolled yourself over pushing that pedal with your hand...
R1's may leave a small rut showing where you drove but R4's leave huge ruts from spinning all the time. I have used both and would never get an R4 unless I was mowing my lawn, which is what a zero turn is for. If I am tractoring in the woods and fields it's R1 all the way.
I've been running mine since 2018 never had a issue, now he obviously didn't do his research, this loader doesn't have Hardly any lifting power.i believe it's only 1400lbs lifting, I use mine for tree work, landscaping, clearing, logging-- pulling.
your looking at around one ton for some of the stuff you want to lift, only way your getting that is with a 60hp or nugget tractor.
Hi, I own a John deer tractor and have the rear tires loaded with -40 c windshield washer fluid. It seems to work well for me and added a lot of weight to the back end!
Currently I have rim guard in both rear tires and one 60lb wheel weight on each rear tire. I also have another set I plan to install. I also have 320lbs in suitcase weights that I hang off the 3 point.
You are learning the hard way about why it's worth the $$ for proper ballast and an easily removable loader. With JD's removable setup, you could drop the loader in less than a minute and transfer weights onto a front bracket for heavy pulling in the woods.
You could modify the ballast box to attach your pulling chain's by welding in a 2" receiver into the rear, then filling the box with ballast. If you want to be able to quickly dump the box and use the 3pt for something else, look into a quick-hitch setup. Also, the drawbar should still be available for pulling if the box is raised fully.
I would ballast off the 3pt before doing tire ballast but by now you have undoubtedly had to commit to your tire choice. Tire ballast is often less $$ in the short run than wheel weights but comes with some long term drawbacks, even the RimGuard.
Bucket level indicator is a fairly cheap option that you can install yourself. You could prob make one if you saw what it was. And all JD buckets for CUT loaders have parallel top and bottom edges. ;-)
you would be amazed at how much a backhoe attachment would help you dig up stumps and giving you counterbalance. I had a jd 650. with loader and backhoe and it was a super rig for clearing land.
You could not have spent anytime researching tractors. You complained through the entire video like someone forced you to buy this tractor. I just bought the very same model with a ballast box, a must have. You did provide some really valuable information for me though. I just bought a new 14 foot tandem axle trailer rated at 7000 lbs. I was worried about hauling it with that, not any more.
I did research and talked to three different dealers. The problem is dealers are in the business of selling tractors and not telling the truth. I found out the reason he wanted to sell me the ballast box and not add rim guard to the tires is because they have a 3rd party add rim guard. They would make more money on a ballast box then having a 3rd party tire place come in to add rim guard. So I called the tire guy myself and he said rim guard is $2.5 a gallon 30 gallons per tire. So I adding rim guard. He figured it would add 715 lbs of ballast and would take about an hour.
congrats dude i have the kubota l3301 but i keep a box blade on tractor just for weight that is the issue i am seeing with your tractor to it all about learning just be patient and be careful i don't have fluid in my tires and the box blade does just fine for me
nice video. can I suggest that you look up video by Tractor Mike on How to trailer a tractor. binding it down. not sure where you are located but you may want to check your local laws for trailing machines. not trying to troll you at all just want you use safety for yourself and others as you are transporting your nice new toy
i'm surprised they let him off the lot with that golf cart trailer.
that golf cart trailer has a 5200 lb axle and electric brakes.
it could have a 52,000 pound axle, and a DPS trooper would put you on the shoulder until you properly secure your load.
From what I was told I am only required to have one strap.
hey, it's your rig. you can run it any way you want.
my dealer wouldn't let me leave the lot until I had met ALL USDOT, TXDOT and TXDPS regulations for transporting my 1025R-TLB, tiller and belly mower. I don't know where you got your "one strap" information but you could probably put $5 with it and buy a decent cup of coffee.
my TLB had to be on a 16' tandem. it had be secured at FOUR points by FOUR separate chains and ratchet binders. chains and binders for this class load had to be #70. the chains had to be configured to prevent ANY linear OR lateral movement of the TLB.
I was allowed to secure the tiller to the trailer forward rail with a 3" ratchet strap by going through the lift point to the side rail anchor points. I had to capture the ends of the tiller with the same strap. NO linear or lateral movement is allowed.
Safety is Job 1.
Unless that trailer is rated for close to 5k your over weight. Plus only two points strapped down, if you were to get into an accident you might be looking a big lawsuit. I would cringe if I was behind you on the highway....
Ryan Fowler yeah the minute I saw a single axle trailer I was confused/ concerned.
From your video I see that you have the 3 pt hitch all the way up[. Try lowering your 3 pt hitch and use it to pick up the log , you might fixed your ballast problem. I use a an I-Match hitch with a adapter for a receiver hitch and I have another piece of square tubing with a weld on hook which I insert into the top of the receiver hitch and use that to skid logs. Worked great on my old 1025R. Haven't had a chance to try it on the 2038R yet.
Grapple needed here. Not a solve all ,but bets pulling with chain.
With my little Kubota, I'm real carefull about jerking on stumps with a chain that s fastened to the three point hitch...If I think I might be jerking on the chain I pull directly of a clevis attached to the tractor frame...hate to see you bend or break the three point!
water and anti freeze in the rear tires, then you have ballast without changing the outside of the toy tractor
Put chain on tree you want to move put other end of chain to another tree hook tractor with another chain to the middle of the between tree chain at a 90 degree angle you will double your pulling power to get tree on the ground
also check out 84bullitt video on importance of ballast. you may need to front ballast to assist you in pulling
Sounds to me like you need the next size up tractor regardless of the make. You need to fill the tires with ballast and add wheel weights.
That log is probably 3 times heavier than the tractor
Just my opinion, wrong equipment for the job. Like using an atv to haul a 30ft camper
The overall light weight of the Deere E Series, coupled with the cast aluminum rear end and very short wheelbase, combine to give you very little weight over the rear tires. I'm sure you've filled them with rim guard by now, so hopefully it's doing better.
I have them filled and I am looking at some 70lb suitcase weights and maybe wheel weights.
Consider a ballast box with 500-600lb of stuff in there -- will make a big difference.
I think what we have here is more of an "OE" issue than tractor capabilities...
That trailer is way to small, you should be using binders and chain as well that axle can't be rated for over 3500 pounds. If you wreck and anything on that trailer touches anyone you will be going to prison or going bankrupt
some piece of work "go back to the 8n"
Lots of physics happening here. LOL.
It's a 25hp tractor, what did you expect?
I was thinking it should be similar to an 8n ford.
Does your tractor have the ability to run a backhoe attachment?
I am not sure they make a backhoe for the E series.
@@stuntcardriver they do now!
Heard beet juice is less caustic as a ballast fluid??? Don't know about freezing?
I hope you ha e more experience by now. This was embarrassing to watch.
Nice trailer.....who makes it? How wide is it?
PJ Utility Trailer 6 x 10 with a 5200 lb axle with electric brakes
Thanks, is that PJ trailer in New York?
www.pjtrailers.com/
Turf tires have way less load capacity and the sidewalls are garbage, you will be busting tires in that wooded area!!! Those R4s are rock solid, your problems in this video are all weight related, you need the rear tires filled with beat juice! That tractor is suffering from a lack of rear ballast! My 1025R can outdo your tractor right now because I have my rear tires filled. :)
you need a chainsaw. if you are pulling down a tree that gets hung up, pull it from the side at 90 degrees to the lean.
That trailer has so many dot fines it's not Evan funny i would be scared to follow u
Yannmar painted green made in india.some assembly here in usa
get mine Saturday! how are those tires? will they tear up a lawn? should I get turf tires?
Thanks
The R4's are good for lawn. I had R1's (ag tires) on the 8n Ford and they would leave tire tracks. The R4's have good surface displacement so they don't leave ruts. From what I heard tractors with turf tires don't keep their value.
you are using a toy, like its a real tractor
For what your doing you need a 5,000 not a 3,000
that's funny , not much better than 8N which is not much better than mule!!! I wanted to buy JD first tractor but found out you can't beat Kubota!!! like comparing oranges to green apples. Buy American when you can.
It is not much of a tractor other then a lawn tractor and light yard and home garden work if you can transport it on a small trailer like that has what a 3500lb rating if that. You need the weight of the tractor in order to do anything of any good size and you should not have to buy costly extras to make it work. I have never seen any use for any of these so called compact tractors and what they cost good for anything but very light home yard an garden work. But not at the cost they want. But people have made a demand for these so they know they can jack the cost up. But in the end all you really have is a over priced toy. I would never but one as they can not do much. I been around equipment all my life and your far better off with a mini excavator for all most the same money only because of the fad people have for these toy tractors since the start of people wanting to homestead hobby farm. But find they take for ever to do even the smallest job past light yard work. The loaders will not even lift height enough to load a 3/4 ton. There joke
I don't care what the naysayers are saying. I have one just like yours and I'm pretty impressed with it. That bucket or front end loader is the handiest tool I've ever owned and I am sure thankful for it. Thanks Dave. I'm watching this for the second time and just have to say I am very thankful for my little toy. Its really a work horse and jt fits my budget just fine.