This effort reminds me so much of my first time on Serenity! Freed it to the "good left foot" then basically Frenched it the rest of the way. Don't sweat it too much - very typical of us average climbers. Just be sure to come back and try, try, try again. It took me about four attempts before I finally got the pitch clean. Good luck in your future attempts!
The way to do this is to place gear from the stance and then go for it. Just don't blow it on the last couple of moves. There's a point at which over protecting ensures failure. If you want a higher piece then climb up a move, place it, and then climb back down to the stance for a rest before you blast.
Good struggle. Well done! It’s great that you leave the raw footage, which allows us to see the challenge for average climbers like me (actually pretty bad climber). One thing I noticed was that, compared to some of the crack specialists (e.g. Tyler Karow), your hips seem to be quite far out from the rock. Possibly impossible to create friction if too close, but they seem to hug the wall more to avoid putting all the strain on the arms.
Looks like you got some good moves in! Your left foot didn't seen to be pulling it's weight. Something to think about. Take a little more time getting the cams right the first time, and then leave them alone. And when you stack them spend the time you saved putting a runner on the lower piece. If you place the pieces half way correct even if the first piece fails the second piece is much less likely to be moved when the rope is tensioned. You can see as you tensioned the rope that the lowest piece that you stacked was almost horizontal. This could lead to a double failure. The first one gives you the least fall and the second one is for back up. Kauk: The Art of Leading ruclips.net/video/CjEf30FD7yo/видео.html
Na, its someone who is a 10c climber trying a 10d. It always looks like this when you're pushing your limits. The version of a rich guy buying his way to Everest is him top roping someone else's lead the entire way.
Cool! been wanting to get on that climb for a while. Good to see what this crux is all about, maybe not for me got really fat fingers.
This effort reminds me so much of my first time on Serenity! Freed it to the "good left foot" then basically Frenched it the rest of the way. Don't sweat it too much - very typical of us average climbers. Just be sure to come back and try, try, try again. It took me about four attempts before I finally got the pitch clean. Good luck in your future attempts!
Wow, that was hard not to scream along to the attempt you fell off on just before the top. Good fight, good effort! What a beautiful climb. :)
Congrats. That looked brutal!!!
The way to do this is to place gear from the stance and then go for it. Just don't blow it on the last couple of moves. There's a point at which over protecting ensures failure. If you want a higher piece then climb up a move, place it, and then climb back down to the stance for a rest before you blast.
So true! I'm sewing it up a ton - I didn't have the lead head here and basically left an REI gear display on the last 10ft of this climb
@@GreenGlooplol😂
Good struggle. Well done! It’s great that you leave the raw footage, which allows us to see the challenge for average climbers like me (actually pretty bad climber). One thing I noticed was that, compared to some of the crack specialists (e.g. Tyler Karow), your hips seem to be quite far out from the rock. Possibly impossible to create friction if too close, but they seem to hug the wall more to avoid putting all the strain on the arms.
Thanks for sharing!
19:26 Turned into a parrot
Is the person behind retrieving the clips as they go or something?
Looks like you got some good moves in! Your left foot didn't seen to be pulling it's weight. Something to think about. Take a little more time getting the cams right the first time, and then leave them alone. And when you stack them spend the time you saved putting a runner on the lower piece. If you place the pieces half way correct even if the first piece fails the second piece is much less likely to be moved when the rope is tensioned. You can see as you tensioned the rope that the lowest piece that you stacked was almost horizontal. This could lead to a double failure. The first one gives you the least fall and the second one is for back up.
Kauk: The Art of Leading
ruclips.net/video/CjEf30FD7yo/видео.html
Is this the equivalent of some rich guy buying his way to the top of EVEREST?
More like someone making sure he stays alive while enjoying a sport he love and pushing his limit. You should try it's fun.
@@TJPDmember nah dude gives off Sherpa vibes.
Na, its someone who is a 10c climber trying a 10d. It always looks like this when you're pushing your limits. The version of a rich guy buying his way to Everest is him top roping someone else's lead the entire way.
This is as scary as watching Fred Dibnah laddering a chimney...
@@CrustyBiker Is it supposed to be scary? Thank you btw I just looked a Fred videos, that man was a real one!!